Stitching images of the sky and the ground

I know how to create a panoramic shot using several images taken side by side. My question is, can you create an up and down panoramic image of say, the sky and then the ground. Example: I take a picture of a beautiful sunset and then take a picture of the ground right below the sunset to show the two images combined to show an up and down panoramic shot of the effect of the sunset is having on the ground below it. Is this at all possible?

A vertical panorama? Well you can make multi row panoramas, so there is no reason that you couldn't stitch a single column. An excellent example (set of examples to be more accurate) are Herman Klaus's Vectoramas, which are taken with a hand held camera, merged to HDR in Photomatix, and stitched in Photoshop
Herman (aka Farbspiel) has an excellent site about HDR
http://farbspiel-photo.com/
And if you follow the Learn link on his page, there are some of the best step by step guides I've ever seen. The videos are an even better source of information, and demonstrate just how much work goes into making an image look like the one above

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Hi, i have an iphone 3g and it won't reset, in the screen i have an image of the plug and the itunes icon, what can i do?, hi, i have an iphone 3g and it won't reset, in the screen i have an image of the plug and the itunes icon, what can i do?

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To restore your iPhone, connect it to iTunes and hold down the Power/Sleep button simultaneously with the Home button. Keep both buttons pressed down until your iPhone powers off. When your iPhone turns off, release the Power/Sleep button, but keep the Home button depressed until iTunes detects the iPhone (it should detect restore mode).
Once iTunes detects your iPhone in restore mode, hit the “Restore” button to get your crashed out iPhone back to working order.

In transferring a video file from iPhone 4s to a flash drive then to a Axer FHD-45 pocket projector the image turns upside down. It is right side up in the computor and the flash drive. Any help?

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Have you tried transferringing the videos via usb (sinc you're having trouble transferring them with PhotoSync) as described here: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4083 and just transferring the photos with PhotoSync?

I want to cut out a head from a photo and insert it into another photo again. In the head hair flying in the wind and the blue sky can be seen between the hairs. This blue sky I want to remove, so I can only use the head with hair flying in another photo.

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Make your selection and then use Refine Edge.
See this video tutorial from Bob Gager.
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Hi!I have an image which is a drawing of black lines and i need to put it over a picture without loosing definition in both of them,like the drawing and the picture are one.How can i do that?can someone help me please?I do work with CS6.Thanks!

Photoshop General Discussion

Why has nobody suggested the "Blend If" solution yet?
- double-click on the layer thumbnail of the dragon line art
- Hold down <Alt> and drag the left half of the "This Layer" slider to the left, and the right slider as well, but not as much for a nicer blending.
Done. The only trouble is that you cannot add (for example) a color overlay effect to recolour the lines directly because this layer is not considered truly transparent by Photoshop (in Photoline this is not an issue luckily). In Photoshop's case you will have to merge it to a new layer, and only then does Photoshop treat the transparent pixels as "real" transparent ones. Some tips to do that can be found here: Create A Composite Layer | Planet Photoshop
Alternatively, convert the layer to a smart object, and you can apply layer effects and the like without issues. I would choose the latter option, since it is non-destructive.
This method, however, does not take the pre-multiplied edge pixels into account (which are multiplied with white), and thus you lose those pixels. This may be an undesired side effect, especially for more delicate art work. A better approach is to use an "unmultiply" effect.
In Photoline a non-destructive adjustment layer will allow us to do exactly this with any background colour, and with additional controls as well. Unfortunately, such a filter is unavailable in Photoshop. Luckily enough an action for Photoshop is available: http://www.ayatoweb.com/download/down04.html
- download the action (zip file) and load up the actions in Photoshop (I have no idea if this action still works in CC and above - I own a license of CS6 only).
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- run the action "unmultiply English".
- The black background is removed, and you now invert the artwork back to its original black.
Done! Notice how all of the original edge pixels remained unaffected. Those are now truly semi-transparent, and blend nicely with the background layer(s). A bit of a shame this is a destructive workflow, but the result is great.

Iphone 4 during a call can't hear or be heard. But I know both the speakers and the phone call mic work fine.

I bought an iphone 4 and have been having multiple issues since the moment I got it. My biggest issue when I received it was that the noise cancellation mic didn't work. I sent it back to the people I bought it from to fix it and they fixed the other mic but not the noise cancellation mic. So I know that one doesn't work with apps, speaker phone, that sort of thing. I've been just dealing with it and using headphones with a mic on them.
Well once I put my sim card in and had to go through a huge debacle with AT&T to do it, I got a phone call and I couldn't hear anyone and they couldn't hear me. I tried switching it to speaker phone and using my headphones and still nothing. I first tried factory reset and network reset and it didn't do anything. So I tried the fix where you put a piece of cardboard in the phone and the other fix where you loosen and then re-tighten the grounding screw. Now I can hear the other person but only on speaker phone, the call is choppy, but I can hear them so progress! They still couldn't hear me. However, when I took the call off of speaker phone it was back to dead silence. I tried putting in my headphones to see if they could hear me, they still could not hear me even with the headphone mic. I'm not sure what else I can do!! I know the speakers and mic work because I listen to music and play games and I hear those and when recording on voice memo the mic and playback work fine.I also know that it isn't any issue with signal because it happens where ever I am, low signal or all 5 bars! I guess I'll try cleaning them and try putting a thicker piece of cardboard but I don't expect those to work. If you can help with any suggestions at all please let me know! I have been having the worst luck with this phone and i'm getting absolutely fed up.

Hey there RJOBoston,
Take a look the article below, it provides troubleshooting tips that should resolve the issue you’re running into with not being able to hear or be heard on calls.
If you can't hear a person on a call or voicemail or if the sound quality is poor on iPhone - Apple Support
Cheers,
-Jason

I have a 17" Macbook pro with flickering red and cyan(blue) lines across the screen. The issue disappears temporarily when I tap on the computer, and the problem does not occur when I use external display or try to screen capture the problem.

I purchased my Macbook (17") through a certified apple tecnition in August 2012, it was refurbished and the motherboard was completely replaced. I do a lot of photo editing, but I have been unable to do so because of the red vibrating lines that interrupt my screen. The issue disappears temporarily when I tap on the computer, and the problem does not occur when I use external display or try to screen capture the problem. I brought the computer back to the technition I purchased it from and he said that it was a problem with my fan, so I have two new fans but the issue is still occuring. He says he doesnt know whats wrong. Does anyone have any information on this issue?
Here is an image of the issue
http://www.flickr.com/photos/67839707@N08/8884847081/

I recommend having your Mac serviced by someone competent. A force sufficient to "blow apart" the fans was clearly excessive and may have damaged the display cable, as well as any number of other problems.
Dust is properly cleaned with a vacuum, preferably one designed for computer service, and they are not cheap.
Compressed air should never be used. It just blows dust everywhere, often into places where it can no longer be removed.

IDVD problem burning and multiplexing - gets stuck but ejects the DVD and the DVD doesn't play

I am having trouble burning DVDs. Everything seems to be working fine during the iDVD project creation. I can watch the movie and select scenes within iDVD. Then, when I go to burn the DVD, it gets stuck at the burning/multiplexing stage - the wheel just keeps spinning and says there is about a minute left. Yet it ejects the DVD and the DVD won't play when inserted into a DVD player. It will show the intro and the scene selection pages but when you click on one of the scenes, it gets stuck and doesn't play. I have already uninstalled and reinstalled iDVD. The problem persists. It seems like the burner itself is the problem. What can I do to fix it? I have Mac OS X Version 10.6.8 with a 2.8 GHzintel Core 2 Duo and iDVD version 7.0.4.

Hi
Multiplexing error is a very complex problem due to many things (long long list following) - one common but not obvious reason is that material on the iDVD menu goes outside the TV-Safe area (or just touching it).
So first - turn on TV-Safe area and move any object well inside of this.
Wide screen stretched - usually (as I think) it is due to making a 4x3 movie in a 16x9 wide-screen project OR the other way around. This forces one to on flat-screen TV (or other) set the presenting view right - My has 4x3, wide-screen, zoom and auto-wide-screen and I have to switch this by my remote for some DVD I've made "wrong" way.
Now my long long list on Multiplex Error
LONG LONG LONG LIST
Multiplexing Error
PART One.
Use of strange video/audio material e.g. .avi, .wmv, .mp3 etc.
I only use.
Video - StreamingDV (miniDV tape via FireWire) and
Audio - .aiff (as on audio-CDs) (else converted to this .aiff 48KHz)
Photo - .jpg (.bmp known problematic)
Chapters !
A. Using strange letters in video project name e.g. +,/; etc. keep to a-z and 0-9 strange letters in project name e.g. +
as described by Donnyboy69. Does the title of your project have any symbols or decimal points in it. If so, that is why you are getting the error. I had a project that had a + sign which caused the same problem. I renamed it without the symbol and low and behold, it worked.
B. Location of Chapters
• Can’t be at start or end of movie (Skip first/start one - iDVD sets this by it self. At the End - no need)
• Not in a transition (or within 2-3 seconds from it)
Important when from iMovie HD6 or previous - Now also observed when using FCE 4
PART Two.
from Robert Modero.
"Multiplexing Error. Problem during initialization of tracks"
Simply remember to add subtitles to your Quicktime files and menu buttons.
Once I did that, I was back in business.
from Boise Jim
Do a safe reboot (by holding down the shift key until you see the spinning gear on gray background, then release, then restart when your start-up screen appears).
I always makes a DiskImage first and test this so that it runs OK
I use only - Verbatim DVDs
I use only - DVD-R
I burn at an as slow speed possibly e.g. x1
This gives good DVDs
PART Three.
Multiplex Error
Chuck, Chicago 2/7/2009.
Back again. Here is what I have found to work. I also have and use a LaCie DVD-R/RW DL external drive and a LaCie external hard drive as well. Since yesterday I have tried a few ways to burn a themed iDVD project having four 56 minute movies on it, amounting to 226 minutes onto a DVD DL disc, capacity 240 minutes. Apple tech support really didn't know what to do but gave me a very good tip. I had two options left. Apple tech support's tip was to try disc image. One of the replies on a thread with this subject said not to, but my experience today is good. Put your project onto "Burn to disc image," under "iDVD, file." Yesterday encoding took me 23 1/2 hours. Overnight for iDVD disc image, encoding took 21 1/2 hours (again) while I slept. This morning I tried to copy/burn disc image to a DVD with Roxio Toast 7, and it stopped near the end of the burn with some kind of "error" message. So then I tried Utilities> Disc Utility> Burn icon, and followed it through. Be sure to click the DVD DL drive in the window "Burn disc in.". I had one other problem though. At the end of a 46 minute copy, it started to verify, and at the end of verify it rejected the burn. So I tried again, and when "verify" appeared, I clicked on "Skip." The disc finished burning and is doing fine and well. A long and tortuous process, but at last something works. I made several additional copies using Disc Utility. Best wishes. Chuck, Chicago.
2. Disconnect any other external devices not absolutely needed.
e.g. external USB/USB2 hard disks, other FW hard disks etc.
3 Chapter marks in transitions - minimum 2 sec from
FROM Bev.
(Not a 'guy' but I will answer!)
First, I do not think that mixing wide-screen and standard makes a difference in iDVD.
Second, you should use a better brand of DVD disk. Also, many of us have experienced fewer problems on playback with DVD-R disks. Recommended brands here are Verbatim, Maxell and Taiyo Yuden. Memorex and TDK are not consistent and may not give you a correct burn. They apparently have fewer layers in the composition of the disk. I have always used Verbatim DVD-R disks and have not had any burn problems.
Also, choose a slower burn speed, 4x or less.
Third, to determine if the iDVD project will burn properly, create a disk image file (from within iDVD, go File->Save as Disk Image) and test it. Mount the disk image and then open DVD Player (in Applications) and view your project. If it plays correctly, you can then burn the actual DVD disk from the disk image file using Disk Utility.
From. Boise, Idaho
I did everything I've seen suggested, but a friend (who used to be an Apple Genius) suggested that I do a safe reboot (by holding down the shift key until you see the spinning gear on gray background, then release, then restart when your start-up screen appears).
It worked, and I got a clean burn from iDVD.
Hopefully this can help other people.
by dheb0422
Well, I finally got it, and it was odd enough to post here incase anyone looks this topic up again. Many things were tried, including burning the unedited film, the edited film without titles and chapter markers, abbreviating the chapter markers in case length was the issue (remember the old iMovie used to truncate them when moving to iDVD?). In the process, I noticed that one, and only one, chapter marker was on the same line as the title marker. All the others were on the line above. The only way I seemed able to change that was to clip a few seconds of film. After that last clip, the offending marker took a place on the line above, as were all the others. That run published, compiled completely and burned. That's one for the books.
One user more writes
To add my experience with Multiplex Errors using iDVD (7.0.4), I recently created two iDVD projects
Video from both passed from FCE 4.01 with chapters
One project worked fine in creating disk image file
The other gave Multiplex Errors
I tried suggestions to remove special characters and no chapter marks at beginning, but nothing worked
Note that I've used iDVD for dozens of projects and this is first time I've run into Multiplex Errors
Anyway, for problem project, I tried an experiment where I removed all chapters in FCE and passed to new iDVD project
This time multiplex errors gone
So had something to do with chapters
So now I tried numerous experiments to remove individual chapters and try again creating disk image with new iDVD project
After numerous tries, I was able to narrow problem down to 1 "Bad" chapter mark
That is, when I left the "bad" chapter in my FCE project and passed to iDVD, iDVD gave multiplex error
When I removed "bad" chapter mark (and others in), no multiplex error
As a final experiment, I moved "bad" chapter mark about 5-10 sec's beyond original point and passed to iDVD, the multiplex errors now magically went away and I was able to finally create my disk image.
I have no idea why this worked, but thought I'd mention here in case someone else runs into similar problem.
Rich839
In addition to Bengt's fine advice, burning errors can occur if you have located any of your menu buttons wholly or partly outside of the safe TV viewing area. Go to your main project menu, then click on View/Show TV Safe Area, to check. Drag into the safe viewing area any buttons that are outside the safe viewing area.
Russ One - suggest this
Multiplex Error-There was an error during muxing preparation
One thing that worked for me was to export the video w/o chapter markers as a self contained movie (thereby not loosing the edits & etc). Then make a new FCE project and import that movie into a new sequence and add the chapter markers. I've used "-", "&" and "," with no problem in the chapter names. Removing the markers or exporting without them did solve the problem but renaming them with just numbers 1,2,3....5, did not solve the problem and since this problem seems to happen with with iMovie as well, it would suggest the problem is in the video or audio and in combination with the chapter markers iDVD just can't handle it. The only other possibility is that both iMovie and FCE share the same or similar chapter marker code that some how is corrupting the markers.
Summary - What to try
1. Chapters
• Only A to Z and 0 to 9 in chapter title
• No Chapter mark at very beginning of movie
• No Chapter mark in or within 2 seconds from any transition in movie
2. TV-safe area for buttons (no one outside this)
3. Safe re-boot
4. No other external devices connected - that are not needed
SDMacuser adds to this
• On #4 ... No ext. devices. Some think this applies mainly to ext. FW. Not the case. Also applies to ext. USB2 as well (not to mention flash drives too).
Do not leave 3rd party devices / camera / camcorder plugged in unless it is being used with iDvd's One Step process. Certain web cams can trigger this also (especially ones with added features like LED light/s that draw additional power from the FW or USB bus).
5. Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-up hard disk
6. Make a DiskImage first - reduces where problem originates
7. Trash iDVD pref. file
8. Make a new iDVD project
9. Movies in project with same aspect ratio e.g. 4x3 or 16x9
10. No other programs/applications running during iDVD process. e.g. Internet, screen & energy savers
Yours Bengt W

How do i save a calender i have created with the photo and the dates saved on separate pages?

how do i save a calender i have created in photoshop with the photo and the dates saved as two separate pages? when i save as pdf or jpeg they are authomatically saving 1 pg with the photo and dates on one page. This is causing problems when i print.

Hi there, in case your printer cannot print very large, you can also crop down two versions and print them as separate documents.
1) Create a guide where you would like to split the pages by clicking on the ruler (hit command R if they are not showing) and dragging to the desired area.
Creating the guide will make it so you can be precise in the way you split up your page, and so that no part of the image will be repeated or lost.
2) Select the Crop Tool and fit the crop area to the top half of your calendar, using the guide you've just made to snap to the right spot. Hit return to finalize the crop.
3) Go to File > Save As. Name the file something like calendar_top and select the desired file format. Hit "Save."
4) Once you get back to your calendar file, Go to the History panel and select "Drag Guide." This will take you back to the step before you cropped the image.
5) Repeat the steps as before for the bottom half of the calendar, once again using the guide to help you make your crop area.
So then you would just print each of the two pages individually. The images will not be contained within one document, but if you have Acrobat you could combine the files.
I hope this helps!

I was painting in photoshop and accidently rotated all the layers and the canvas how do i realign it?

i was painting in photoshop and accidently rotated all the layers and the canvas. how do i realign them?

dubrox666 wrote:
Image rotation works if the canvas isn't rotated, the canvas was rotated by acciedent (gesture on my tablet) and image roate dosen't fix the canvas when it is rotated, even my guides were coming in crooked, image rotate rotated my image but not the canvas, it happened to me again so i reverted to my previous save, even my instructor dosen't have an answer?!!
Risto
Good gracious. It sounds like you were able to rotate the canvas a more or less exact multiple of 90° or you'd have spotted that it was skewed. I just tried it using the r shortcut, and while it is doable, it is not particularly easy to rotate the canvas to a point where it could fool you. What does surprise me, is that while the Options bar shows the degree of rotation while the r key is depressed, I could see nothing on the UI to tell me that the canvas was rotated. That's something that you might want to start a thread on the Photoshop Feedback page.
Photoshop Family Customer Community
Anyway, Escape is the usual way to cancel rotate canvas.

How do I find BOTH the raw and the cameras jpeg files?

I've got Aperture 3 importing raw plus jpegs from my Nikon D600 camera. The D600 produces amazing jpegs!
Aperture is set to use the raw file as the master.
I'd hoped that I'd have access to both the raw AND the camera jpeg but I only see the raw file and as soon as I open it, the cameras jpeg is replaced by something that aperture generates. It's quite frustrating because the jpegs from my Nikon look fantastic but only for a couple of seconds before aperture replaces them with a horrible, jpeg.
I want to have access to both the camera's jpeg and the raw file. Aperture's jpegs just aren't that good compared to the Nikon original jpegs. Not even close!
Is there any way that I can get back my Nikon camera's jpegs or are they gone, forever?
Thanks in advance!

Roy Martin German wrote:
For some unknown reason, although I can see both the "Use JPEG as Original" and the "Use RAW as Original", both of these menu items are grayed out?
A couple of ways this can happen is (1) if only one format is actually on the camera's card (i.e., the camera's Quality setting is incorrect), or (2) if "Import RAW files only" or "Import JPEG files only" was selected in the RAW+JPEG Pairs panel in the import dialog. So (1) are you sure the card contains RAW and JPEG images (e.g., have you looked at it with Finder), and (2) what setting was used during import?
Roy Martin German wrote:
but I only see the raw file and as soon as I open it, the cameras jpeg is replaced by something that aperture generates.
Not sure what you mean by this statement. By design Aperture doesn't "replace" anything. Can you clarify?

How to separate the source and the measured current

Hi Everybody,
I'd like to know if there is some way to separate the source and the measured current and just writte an mathematical expression to make a dependence between the source and the said parameter. Thanks in advance.

Sure,
Here is the deal:
I'd like to build a circuit with dependent sources, but instead of connecting the sense of current/voltage, I'd like to know if there is a way to writte a sentence for the source which is dependent of a parameter.
For example:
In this circuit I just wrote an expression for the source and its respective parameter. (8*Io).
Attachments:
images.jpg ‏7 KB

Stitching images of the sky and the ground

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