Stock Answers

Here is the thread for Shan'es Stock Answers...and any that others feel to contribute. This way, when a question that we have seen over and over and over again appears, we don't need to type in the answer AGAIN! Or refer tot he thread that it appeared in. I have Stickies with each answer, and copy and paste them. What a time saver. And if more detail is needed, then the thread continues...
So here is "I can't get my transitions to work" or "insufficeint content" when I try to add a transition:
Shane's Stock Answer #1:
You need to make sure that your clips have enough media (called 'handles') at the beginning of the incoming clip and at the end of the outgoing clip for the transition. For example, if you have a 1 second (30 frame) dissolve, your in and out point need to be at least 15 frames from the edge of the clip.

#9 Non-DV material.
Shane's Stock Answer #9:
How to capture material that is not DV.
FCP's basic design is to capture and work with DV material - either miniDV or DVCAM. To do this, all you need is a DV camera or deck that have a firewire connection, a firewire cable, and your computer (and external firewire drive, 7200 RPM, 8Mbs min.)
There are more advanced ways to capture non-DV material such as betaSP, digibeta, and HD. But all these methods require special capture cards.
Let's say you have other formats that you want to capture into FCP and work with...but you need it done cheaply. VHS, S-VHS, Hi8, and DVDs (ones recorded on DVD cameras, NOT Hollywood movies or copywritten material). To do this you need to do one of the following:
1) Buy a digital-to-analogue converter. The Canopus ADVC-100 ($270) is the best of the cheaper models. Other people have had success with the Formac. The Dazzle DV bridge is spotty at best.
2) Buy a cheap miniDV camera. They can be had for around $350. Make sure that the model you buy allows footage to be fed to it via the RCA cables and that it can record this footage. What you'll do is transfer your footage from your VHS (or what have you) to miniDV...then capture the footage from miniDV.

Similar Messages

Shane - Your Stock Answer No.29 ?

I was looking at your FAQ on CreativeCOW and came across this:-
Shane's Stock Answer #29: Error: “Need AGP Graphics card”
The Final Cut software is looking for a graphics card type that is required for that version of the software. FCP 4 and FCP 4.5 were released when AGP cards were the requirement. Attempting to open this on a Mac with a PCIe graphics card, such as an Intel Mac, will cause this error. FCP 4.5 is not supported on the Intel Macs.
If you have an Intel Mac, you are going to have to upgrade to a supported version of FCP…and FCP 6, part of Final Cut Studio 2, is the latest version.
It implies that the only course of action is to upgrade. However, the simple expedient of pressing the "esc" key enables FCP to open. A permanent solution is to edit the .plist which only takes a minute.
I realise that the ideal course is to upgrade, but the non-supported versions of FCP/FCE can be used reasonably well using the above modifications.
I was just wondering why you haven't included this information ?
Ian.

Ian...sorry that this thread has gotten out of hand. First off, let me note that I did not know that holding down the ESC key allowed older versions of FCP to work on newer machines. I don't recall reading that anywhere, and since I don't try to run FCP 4.5 on an intel mac myself (I do not own and intel mac), I have no personal experience with this. I did know of a hack, one where you had to hack the code of FCP so that you got rid of the AGP in the code and replaced it with something else. And that used to be part of the Stock Answer. But I took it out as I did not want to tell people to hack their FCP code, have something go wrong and have them then blame me.
But David is right. If you plan on upgrading you need to weigh ALL the options that come with it. This includes not only getting the machine, but getting compatible versions of software, and other third party products that you may need. If you want to get an Intel Mac, yet still want to use FCP, and you know that FCP 4.5 isn't compatible with the Intels, then you know that you much upgrade FCP as well. I want to get a new Intel myself. But, in doing so I need to get the Mac, RAM, and a new capture card (my old one is for PCI-X only). So the cost of the machine isn't the only factor. Since I could not afford to upgrade to an Intel for this past year, I haven't. I am still running a pretty old G5. But, it still works and works well, so I haven't had the need, nor the opportunity.
But, if that simple ESC key trick works, then I will include it in my stock answer. I didn't omit that on purpose, I simply had no idea it was an option.
Shane

Shane's stock answers no help on my dropped frames trouble -- desperate!

Hi all you chicklets,
I've been trying to take a series of short videos (totalling 15 mins) that I made using FCP 4.5 for the web and nudging them so that they can go on DVDs for a special non-profit event where people might want to have a copy of the videos to watch on their tvs. I am using DVDSP for this per comments by the apple peeps for a previous question I posted.
Having trouble with dropped audio that is making me nuts. S-O-S!
Here are as many gritty details as I can bear to write down.
Equipment:
A) G4 867 MHz PowerPC, 1.5 GB RAM, 10.3.9 OS
B) I work by using G-Tech Firewire (400) hard drive (500GB) as my system disk.
C) I also have some junk on another Firewire HD (Iomega - 160GB) that I think is used by the G-Tech. Please don't scream! I intend to learn all about media manager to clean up my crap after this event has passed on by.
I'm new to this -- and if elected president, I promise to have a better workflow station system management process ad lib ad nauseum next time, and will not clog up the apple intertubes with my pleas for help on obvious beginner's mistakes.
Actions:
1) I put the videos all into the same sequence. Previously each 'chapter' had its own tab and sequence. Please note that I have burned dvds of these using idvd with no audio drops, no nuthin.
2) I added chapter and compression markers (sparingly) since I do have some effects/transitions that I would like to have come out smooth.
3) I was able to hear and see everything perfectly while playing the timeline with the videos all on the same one. Nothing dropped.
4) My settings in FCP timeline are thus:
a) Safe RT
b) Playback Video Quality: High
c) PLay base layer only (check)
d) Record to tape: Full quality
5) I exported this movie like this:
Export > Quicktime Movie
--current settings
--audio + video
--all markers
--make movie self-contained
6) And then I dropped this movie into Compressor
I used these presets:
MPEG 2 60 Min High Quality Encode
my audio = DVD PCM Audio = 48KHz 16 bit stereo
(don't have dolby as an option here I think)
After compression the video part looks as good as it's ever going to look (I think it's pretty good) but the audio has breaks and even omissions of music in the Background that I can hear perfectly when listening to the thing in FCP.
I went to Shane's stock answers. I even trashed the FCP preferences -- and I don't even know what that means.
I need to get this thing done soon -- can someone, anyone, please please give me a hand? What am I missing other than sleep?
Thanks so much for my long and winding road!
HeirBetty

HeirBetty wrote:
3) I was able to hear and see everything perfectly while playing the timeline with the videos all on the same one. Nothing dropped.
I'm a bit unclear as I didn't see the other thread. To clarify: you want to make separate sequences and output them as separate movie files instead of having them all on the same timeline? And if you do that, you get dropped frames?
You have a very slow machine and running your OS on an external disk and then editing off the same disk is making it even slower. The more sequences, bins, clips, etc, in a project, the more system resources it will take and system resources are a rare commodity on your machine, I am afraid.
So keep things as lean as you can. Consider creating separate projects for, say, every 3 movies or put everything into one timeline and then use the In and Out points to select which parts you want to export each time.

Shane...need your expertise Re: stock answer# 42

Shane, Having a problem with one of my clients airing ( cable ) a DVD I deliver. Even though I give them a letterboxed DVD, it plays back from their machine vertically stretched. I am at wits end. Please allow me to give you some info. I edit in Prores footage shot in XDCAM HD. I kept the encoding process
simple this week and did not use Compressor just DVD SP. I checked the 16x9 letterbox in the General tab per your instructions and burned. Last evening I walked into a local sports bar to see if the program was on the air and how it looked. It seemed fine but it was playing on a wide screen TV so I have no idea how they had it configured. When I arrive home I turned on a 4x3 TV and it was vertically stretched! If I play it back in my studio from a stand alone DVD player into a 4x3 SD TV it looks fine. Could there be a setting in that DVD player at the cable company that I can tell them about or could I be doing something wrong here? I am really lost here. Shane, if you or anyone else has some insight it will be greatly appreciated.
Best,
Tom

Shane Ross wrote:
I think Studio nailed it. The TV settings. If it is stretched, then their TV is set to stretch the image. My HDTV has 4 settings...or 5. Zoom, Just, then some form of stretch, then the 4:3 square box. I leave it on JUST for regular TV signals, but 16:9 DVDs I adjust to...one of the other settings.
Have them run thru their TV aspect ratio settings until they get it.
But in order for the tv in the bar to have displayed it correctly it must have been an anamorphic dvd, not letterboxed as the OP stated. As David K and I have pointed out this is never going to give consistent results on both types of monitors when played from a single dvd player. The dvd player (in this case the cable company's) has to be set for connection to one type of screen or the other.
In this case the choices for delivery are all going to be a compromise, either; broadcasting full quality anamorphic which will mean that those with 4:3 tvs see the incorrect aspect ratio or sacrificing quality by supplying/broadcasting and already letterboxed image for an increased likelihood of everybody seeing the right aspect ratio, although at a risk of those with 16:9 monitors seeing an unnecessarily letterboxed image (which is what I believe would happen to you shane if you keep your tv on 'Just' for tv broadcasts. It would try to make the 4:3 frame, black bars included, fill the 16:9 screen, albeit with a bit of algorithmic distortion and cropping, not a straight anamorphic squeeze. As I said before, 'zoom' would be the right option in this case.)
In my experience the settings available are;
4:3 - shows a 4:3 screen with black pillarboxing. The correct setting for 4:3 shows.
14:9 - shows a 14:9 screen with black pillarboxing. For 4:3 shows, will fill a bit more of the screen horizontally but at the expense of some cropping top and bottom.
wide/16:9 - stretches a 4:3 frame to fill the full 16:9 screen. The correct setting for anamorphic material ie SD dvds.
zoom - scales a 4:3 frame to fill the full width of the screen while maintaining aspect ratio. The correct setting for letterboxed material although some tvs have 2 levels of zoom, one which correctly scales a 16:9 letterbox to the screen and one a bit tighter.
Justify/Smart - Uses an algorithm to scale and distort the image so that a 4:3 frame fills the 16:9 screen by a combination of cropping a little height and stretching the image horizontally, but more so at the edges and less so in the centre. Gives a strange effect to horizontally scrolling titles.
Message was edited by: J S Langham

Unoffical FAQ ~ your question may be answered here

I have been helping people out with ADE for over a year now, and am now stopping being a regular contributer.
I copy below all the 'stock' answers I had for various situations.
Most of these should no longer be relevant as they should have been fixed long ago.
However, the recent release of ADE3.0 show that this is far from being the case.
These should all be in the official Adobe FAQ, but meanwhile here they are in a fairly random order with a very course index.
Not sure how to make internal links, so search for the keyword with ~~~
kobo~~~ desparate measures when a Kobo won't play ball with ADE
windows~~~ windows registration goes wrong so ADE is not automatically opened for .acsm/.epub (worse, reader is, and then refuses to read)
account~~~ spiel about how adobe accounts, email addresses and DRM books interact ~~ you get a wrong user message
Overdrive~~~ problems authorizing overdrive app on tablet
findaccount~~~~ how to find the account you are authorized with
bookaccount~~~ how to find the account a book is authorized with
nonauthorized~~~~ the problems of downloading a book while not explicitly authorized
confused~~~ sometimes ADE pretends to be registered when it isn't really
hacking~~~ extreme measures when authorization doesn't behave
differentdirectory~~~ how to use a different directory to save your ADE books
tablets~~~ ADE cannot see a tablet device, and use on Windows RT
bugs~~~ ADE2.0 is riddled with bugs (?is 3.0 any better). Here are some know bugs
alternatives~~~ ADE2.0 is riddled with bugs (?is 3.0 any better). Some alternatives
nomoredevices~~~ you have used up all your activations, so can't authorize new device
kobo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
possible help with Kobo issues … I haven’t tried this
from post 23 in http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1124380?tstart=0 by Shirltaylor, Jul 26, 2013
Yes it was extremely frustrating process to read any library books after the upgrade to Adobe Digital Editions 2.0.
Eventually it turned out that the process must have you sign out of the Kobo device Account under settings on the Kobo Device.
What we did was to remove all library books from the Kobo device and from the Adobe Digital Edition
Next was to sign out of the Kobo Device as well as the Kobo Desktop on the PC as well as exiting from Adobe Digital Edition.
Next was to start up Kobo Desktop and sign in.
Next was to connect the Kobo device to the USB port.
This resulted in the Kobo device being upgraded and Sync'd to the Kobo Desktop. Wait until the Sync is complete
Disconnect the Kobo device from the USB port
Next was to restart Adobe Digital Edition and using CTRL-SHIFT-D to deauthorize the computer and select Erase Authorization.
Next was to go back to Adobe Digital Edition, Help and Authorize Computer
Next was to reconnect the Kobo device to the USB port
Next was to select the Kobo device in the Adobe Digial Edition and Authorize the device
Next was to get a library book in the Adobe Digital Edition and then add it to the Kobo Device
Everything seems to be working from then on.
Have fun reading again
windows~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sometimes the registration of ADE to Windows as the default hander for .acsm and .epub files does not work;
that is what causes the double-click in Explorer to fail; and usually prevents opening from the browser as well.
especially in Windows 8/8.1, and maybe 7;
this appears to be a bug in Windows (for once not a bug in ADE).
Two possible ways round it.
First, try to force it in Explorer
Right-click on a .epub file (and repeat entire sequence for .acsm if necessary)
Select 'open with' if on the list, 'open' if not.
Select 'choose default program'
Select ADE if it is on the list,
If not select 'more options' and select ADE is on that list.
If not, at the bottom of 'More Options' list is 'Look for another app on this PC', select that
and navigate to the ADE executable (may be at C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Digital Editions\digitaleditions.exe)
Now .epub/.acsm files should be associated with ADE, and double-clicking should work.
Sometimes, Windows allows you to go through all that, but then refuses to make the association you have asked for.
In that case, the only way I know is to use a third party file association program.
http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Miscellaneous/Types.shtml works for me.
account~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Adobe DRM books are associated with an Adobe account; once accessed on a device registered to a given account they can't be used on a device registered to any other account.
You must regain access to your old account and register your computer and other devices with it.
You should not create a new account if you want to keep your old books.
Each account has a permanent internal ID, and is at any one time associated with an external email ID.
The email does not need to be valid, (though it can only be verified if it is valid).
For example, if you lose an email address for some reason or another, it doesn't mean that address is no longer associated with the Adobe account.
The correct thing to do when you change email address is to associate the new email address with the old Adobe account.
Login to the Adobe account using the old (now invalid) email address and old Adobe password.
You can then goto Adobe ID/My Adobe ID and change the email address/external ID associated with the account.
If you have already made a new Adobe account using your new email and registered computers and devices with it, you must ... ... ...
Change the email address associated to your new Adobe account. Until you have done this you can't do step 3.
Many email providers allow variant addresses, such as [email protected] and [email protected]
Those will be the same as far as google is concerned but different as far as Adobe is concerned.
You can now abandon the new Adobe account
Change the email address associated to your old Adobe account to your new email address.
Deregister your computer from the new (now dead) Adobe account, using ctrl-shift-D (cmd-shift-D if on a Mac)
Deregister any ereader devices registered with the account, using ctrl-shift-E (cmd-shift-E if on a Mac) to ADE with the device plugged in
Reregister the computer with the old Adobe account, using the new email address with which you associated it in step 3
(menu/Help/Authorize Computer, Library/Authorize Computer on the older more reliable v1.2.7)
Reregister any ereaders
(menu/Help/Authorize Device, Library/Authorize Device on v1.2.7)
findaccount~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
A book is associated with the AdobeID in use at the time the book was downloaded (.acsm token file turned into encrypted .epub/.pdf file).
An AdobeID has two forms, internal (something like 'urn:uuid:ff2ddc22-eca0-46c6-a84d-xxxxxxxxxxxx') and external (email address).
The authorization mechanism on the book is associated with the internal ID.
The internal ID for an account never changes; you can change the email address it is currently associated with on the Adobe website.
You can check the Adobe ID ADE is using in internal and external form in ADE2.0 using ctrl-shift-I (Help/Authorization Information).
For ADE1.7.2 you sadly only get the external ID, using Library/Authorize Computer (which acts as a query if already authorized).
You can check the AdobeID in external form in Bluefire.
In either case, if you have changed the external ID associated with the account since authorizing the device,
you may be told the old external ID, or may be told the up to date one.
You can check the AdobeID associated with a book in internal form with the rather roundabout method at the bottom of this post.
I don't know of any way of finding the current external ID given the internal ID of the book;
unless it is an ID you still use in which case the matching values from ADE2.0 will tell you.
bookaccount~~~~~
OK. To find the internal AdobeID.
open a sample DRM .epub file as a .zip file.
With some zip programs, you can just open the .epub as an archive (ev, with 7zip),
with others you will have to rename the .epub file to a .zip file first, then open it.
find the file 'rights.xml' within the zip. Probably 'META-INF\rights.xml'
open the rights.xml file
inside you will find a section '<user>' that looks something like
<user>urn:uuid:ff2ddc22-eca0-46c6-a84d-xxxxxxxxxxxx</user>
That string is the internal version for your AdobeID.
That stays fixed for the AdobeID, even if you change the associated email (or password),
that internal ID is what is really associated with the book.
(n.b. there is no point in trying to change the urn to a current one you might find and recreating the .epub file; the DRM is cleverer than that).
You can now contact Adobe at Adobe Live Chat: http://www.adobe.com/support/chat/ivrchat.html
It may be that if you can give them that internal ID they will be able to get you access to your account again.
If they say they can't, it might be worth trying two or three times at intervals;
it seems from what others have said that some of the representatives are very clued up, but others are not.
(I've never used the Live Chat).
If you do go through all that, let us know how you got on.
Overdrive~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sometimes Overdrive has issues with authorization (I have seen from other posts, not experienced).
Try the Bluefire app and see if that will authorize.
If it does, you can use it instead of Overdrive to read Adobe DRM books such as library books; but can’t use it to borrow them.
Also... Even though registration is done via the app, it applies to the device rather than the specific app. It may be that registering Bluefire causes Overdrive to start working, but I’ve never seen that confirmed.
nonauthorized~~~~~~~~~~~
This is a vicious trap that Adobe lays for unsuspecting customers.
They do give very mild warnings, but not nearly strong enough.
When you register 'without ID', ADE creates an anonymous/implicit ID with limited powers (eg can't be used to share with other devices).
Whenever you first load a DRM book, that copy of the book is associated with whatever ID the computer is registered to at the time.
Any book you load while this anonymous ID is active gets associated with that ID, and can't be read on any other device.
When you properly register your computer with a real ID, that old anonymous ID is lost.
Now you don't have any devices that can read the book.
The only way I know round this is to use a DRM stripper such as epubee BEFORE you deauthorize the device.
I do NOT advocate using such code to get around the valid limitations placed on a DRM book.
However, where the problem arises only because of the ineptness of Adobe's ADEPT DRM infrastructure and its implementation,
such a measure is totally justifiable.
confused~~~~~
Sometimes ADE gets its registration/activation confused and in a semi-authorized state.
Uninstalling and reinstalling does not help, and indeed installation can even trigger this state.
Unfortunately, it often then gives misleading error messages about what is wrong.
A common incorrect message informs you that the ID is already in use on another computer and cannot be reused.
Another is "E_AUTH_NOT_READY"
This can often be resolved by completely removing any authorization using ctrl-shift-D to the Library screen on ADE (cmd-shift-D if on Mac).
Restart ADE, and then reauthorize with your (old) Adobe ID.
In extreme cases on the mac, the following extra step has helped some people. Navigate to /Users//Library/Application Support/Adobe/Digital Editions and drag the activation.dat file to the trash. If you are using 10.7, see Access hidden user library files | Mac OS 10.7 Lion. http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1265248?tstart=0
hacking~~~
Useful information about registration, uuid etc: ( http://www.jiagouyan9.com/archives/tag/6040/)
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/905348?start=0&tstart=0
registry [at HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Adobe\Adept\Activation\0000\0000\\value etc]
differentdirectory~~~
There's no way to do it from Digital Editions itself.
You can do it by making directory junction (on PC, and I'm sure Mac has something similar).
Move the directory and any files you already have from .../My Documents/My Digital Editions to wherever you want them.
Open a command prompt
Navigate to .../My Documents.
Type mklink /d "My Digital Editions" "wherever you put the directory"
The new directory does not even need to be on the same drive.
tablets~~~~~~~
Adobe Digital Editions does not generally recognize tablets, only dedicated ereaders.
For a tablet, install compatible Adobe DRM ereader app. I suggest Bluefire; also consider Akdiko or Overdrive but some people have issues registering them. Some tablets come with such an app preinstalled. Authorize the tablet from within the app to use your Adobe ID (details vary from app to app, usually somewhere within Settings)
The tablet may well be able to download books without use of ADE at all. If you do want to transfer books from ADE/computer, use a file manager (Windows Explorer, Mac Finder) to copy to the tablet as mounted drive, or use a utility such as Dropbox.
Very limited choice on Windows RT tablets, try DReader or DL Reader
DL Reader app for Windows RT http://apps.microsoft.com/windows/en-gb/app/dl-reader/0be254fa-1323-4bda-92fa-698fe502456c
~~~~~~~~~
bugs~~~
ADE2.0 is riddled with bugs (?is 3.0 any better). Here are some known ones (that have been around for years)
Bugs caried over to ADE3.0,
no easy option to reauthorize (design bug)
Authorize Computer should not be greyed out when authorized:
it should give a warning 'Do you want to deauthorize first? You will lose access to the books belonging to the old account/ID
and then if you acccept deauthorize and allow you to reauthorize.
hidden deauthorization (design bug)
won't work with library books and (some?) Sony ereaders (see separate post) (code bug) (1.7.2 resolves)
I can't check whether it also still has some of the other standard issues with ADE2.0 that regularly show up on this forum
Insufficient warning of the bad effects of implicit authorization
Prone to not working immediately after install, especially on XP (1.7.2 resolves)
Prone to suddenly stopping working after a time even when it worked before (1.7.2 resolves)
Prone to failure to scroll pages. (1.7.2 resolves)
Incomprehensible error messages. (1.7.2 not quite so bad)
Prone to confused registration, pretending to be registered when it isn't
Incorrect error messages, in particular
ID is already in use on another computer and cannot be reused.
as a message further to confuse users already hit by bug 6.
alternatives~~~~~~
For DRM free ebooks, use the free and vastly superior Calibre. http://calibre-ebook.com/
For DRM ebooks, you can use Sony Reader; free download from Sony intended to run with Sony eReaders but works quite happily without. I prefer ADE1.7.2 to Sony Reader. https://ebookstore.sony.com/download/
There are lots of bugs in ADE2.0 (and 2.0.1). Try replacing ADE2.0 with the older but more reliable v1.7.2.
(You can have them both installed at once if you like.)
Version 1.7.2, it is a little difficult to find, available on Adobe site for Windows and for Mac.
http://helpx.adobe.com/digital-editions/kb/cant-install-digital-editions.html
The forum software is sometimes corrupting the link above. There shouldn't be a blank in 'editio ns.html'. The following redirects to the same page: http://tinyurl.com/diged172
Some people have found ADE trying to upgrade automatically.
It appears (not 100% sure) that if you install ADE2.0 as a new install (not as an upgrade) that your 1.7.2 will continue to run.
Probably best to say no if 2.0.x installation asks if you want to migrate your library.
nomoredevices~~~
Adobe Live Chat: http://www.adobe.com/support/chat/ivrchat.html,
or as a slight short cut try http://helpx.adobe.com/contact.html?product=digital-editions&topic=using-my-product-or-ser vice
Choose topic ‘'Signing into my Account' , and then click on 'I still need help';
then you should see 'Chat with an Agent' at the bottom of the page.
Depending on screen resolution, you may need to scroll down a bit to see the Chat with an Agent' bit, just under 'Ask our Experts'.
'Ask our experts' will indeed just lead you back to this forum.
Sometimes you will get ‘Sorry! All agents are busy— please check back soon.’
Don’t refresh the page, just hang on and it should eventually go to ‘Chat Now, and agent is available’.
They can reset your authorizations, and then you must reauthorize any devices you still need.
(Unfortunately, Adobe haven’t got round to an admin website for viewing and editing authorizations.)
Some of the representatives haven't been properly trained and don't know what to do (and claim there is nothing they can do);
in that case the only way seems to be to give up that chat and try another session hoping for a properly trained representative.
If your problem is with another device using Overdrive, Bluefire, Aldiko or similar third party app, it is recommended not to mention that app when on the chat, just mention that you have run out of authorizations (E_ACT_TOO_MANY_ACTIVATIONS) . Thanks to AJP_Bear for that tip.
~
~~~

Do you have any tips out suggestions for when ADE can't download the epub book from an ACSM file? The problem seems to be related to something blocking the process, but no one has a clue as to the source of the problem. See my post fot more information:
http://forums.adobe.com/message/6179746#6179746
Thank you for any suggestions you are able to offer.

Mi09 special stock error

hello,
while doing Mi09, i am getting error
" special stock O 0007114430 165021220 of this matl does not exist.
message no.M7076
Plz help. its urgent. we have to increase vendor stock.

Answer is in SAP note [64448|https://service.sap.com/sap/support/notes/64448] :
The stock segment must first be created for this material.You can do this by, for example, posting an initial entry of stock balances (movement type 561 + special stock indicator).
If you then immediately reverse this posting again afterwards, you have the missing stock segment with a book inventory balance of 0. The physical inventory count can then be entered.

Why HDV capture in FCP 6.0,3 is not as clear as original footage?

I have tried several capture's settings for HDV footage captured in Sony HDR-HC7. Once it is in my computer's hard disk and ready to strt editing it seems that the video is not very clear mainly the edges of moving objetcs look if they were a liitle bit "dreagged". I ve been told in the Final Cut Training course that the defect is only possible to be corrected in Color program . It fact it is reduced a little when the filter "Film Look" is applied but it does not look as good as the original footage. Is there something I should need to do?. Thanks

#2 Blurry Playback
Shane's Stock Answer #2: Blurry playback
ONLY JUDGE THE QUALITY OF YOUR MATERIAL ON AN EXTERNAL BROADCAST MONITOR, OR AT LEAST A TV.
The Canvas shows you what happens after the codec you are working with has been applied. The Viewer shows you the material in its native format. Once you drop the footage from the Viewer into the timeline, it inherits the attributes of the sequence. If it is a DV sequence, the footage will render out as DV.
1. Disable overlays on the Canvas.
2. Make sure you've rendered everything (no green bars at the top of the timeline).
Video playback requires large amounts of data and many computations. In order to maintain frame rate and be viewable at a normal size, only about one-fourth of the DV data is used in displaying the movie to the screen. However, the DV footage is still at full quality, and is best viewed thru a TV or broadcast monitor routed thru your camera or deck.
NOW...seeing that you are working with HDV, the only way you are going to be able to see the actual quality of what you have, you will need an HD capture card and HD monitor. Matrox MXO plus Apple Cinema Display is a cheap way to go, works with laptops. Or if you have a MacPro, then the Decklink Intensity and HDTV would be a good inexpensive choice. other than that...www.aja.com www.decklink.com
Shane
Shane

Can't Play HDV 1080p24 Quicktime Movie - PLEASE HELP!

I have a self-contained Quicktime file that plays fine using the Quicktime application on my computer that has Final Cut Pro installed on it. However, when I move that Quicktime to my computer that does not have Final Cut Pro, it says I don't have the proper codec. (It plays the audio fine, but the video is just a black screen.)
Can I download this specific codec on my non-FCP computer so that I can play this file?
Here are the specifics on the Quicktime in question:
Format:
HDV 1080p24, 1440 x 1080 (1888 x 1062), Millions
16-bit Integer (Little Endian), Stereo, 48.000 kHz
And, if it helps at all, we footage was created with a Canon XL-H1 camera, imported into FCP, edited, and exported as a Quicktime file using current settings. And, the non-FCP computer does have Quicktime Pro installed.
Thanks!

Gonna have to look at a third party solution...
#51 - Cannot view DVCPRO HD or HDV or ProRes on my computer.
Shane's Stock Answer #51 - Cannot view DVCPRO HD, HDV or ProRes QT files on your computer.
The DVCPRO HD, HDV and ProRes codecs only comes with FCP. If your computer does not have FCP installed, it cannot view these quicktime files. It doesn't matter if it is a Mac or PC, without FCP installed, you cannot view these files.
If you need to view ProRes material, you can download the ProRes decoder (mac and windows compatible) for ProRes
http://support.apple.com/downloads/AppleProRes_QuickTime_Decoder_1_0_forWindows.
http://support.apple.com/downloads/AppleProRes_QuickTime_Decoder_1_0_forMac
If your footage was captured as DVCRO HD you can buy the Calibrated DVCPRO HD decoder:
http://www.calibratedsoftware.com/QDVCProHD.asp
HDV, XDCAM? Calibrated has you covered too:
http://www.calibratedsoftware.com/QXD.asp
If you have MXF files from a P2 camera and you need to view the footage on a computer without FCP, you can download P2CMS from Panasonic:
http://www.panasonic.com/business/provideo/p2-hd/downloads-and-updates.asp
Or you need the other party to compress the footage into a format your computer can play, like H.264.
Shane

Importing clips from iMovie - jittery

Just got Final Cut Pro 5 and I'm having a problem with importing clips from iMovie into FCP5. The clips were fine in iMovie, but the images are jittery in FCP. I tried Apple Care, but they wanted to charge me $200 to answer my question eventhough I just bought the software yesterday!
any ideas most welcome - thanks

Nowhere is it advertised that iMovie is compatible with FCP.
One is a consumer format, with less features, like lack of timecode. The other is a professional format, which relies heavily on timecode.
Yes, output to tape from imovie, then capture with FCP.
#20 Using iMovie to Capture for FCP edit
Shane's Stock Answer #20:
iMovie handles the media differently from FCP, specifically where audio is concerned. So it is not a recommended workflow. Here's why...
iMovie captures using DV Stream (.dv) standard which does not use timecode. That is a big disadvantage over the way that FCP captures in that you can't go back and recapture the material at a later date if you need to revisit a project.
The DV/NTSC specification (the one FCP uses) also calls for seperate tracks for audio and video, even if you capture it as one clip. iMovie' DV stream format is muxed audio and video, which means that they are tied together (I can't get into specifics because I ain't no engineer or programmer). FCP is a bit more demanding and captures the seperate audio/video tracks, either in a single media file or as seperate video and audio files. With FCP you could capture video only or audio only because each is defined by the DV specs. while with iMovie you can't.
Also, if you drop the iMovie footage into the timeline, your will get the RED render bar forcing you to render the footage in order to see it...
"There's no need to fear, UNDERDOG is here!"

Connecting Log & Capture to an External Display

Forum,
I am using FCP for my current project. While logging footage from my camera I thought it would be easier if I could hook up the Preview area of the Log & Capture window to an external device such as a display. Is this possible?
How do I achieve this? What kind of an adaptor is needed?
Thanks.

#8 External Monitor Viewing.
Shane's Stock Answer #8:
A simple path is mac > firewire > camera or deck > rca cables > tv
Then start up your camera and tv, then open fcp.
Then go View > External video > all frames
Video playback should be Apple firewire NTSC (If you are using an NTSC set)
Audio playback should be Audio follows Video
Techinially, this should send synched video to your TV
If for some reason you can't view your timeline on your external monitor, there are a few things to try:
1) Make sure that the camera/deck is connected and powered on BEFORE you open FCP.
2) In the Final Cut Pro menu select AUDIO/VIDEO Preferences and make sure your signal is being sent out thru Firewire DV.
3) Go to the menu and select VIEW>EXTERNAL>ALL FRAMES.
4) Click in the % box above the image and select FIT TO WINDOW.
5) Go to VIEW->refresh A/V devices
6) Make sure the Log & Capture window is closed
If you want it to play in both the canvas and the external monitor you need to go to the FINAL CUT PRO menu and select AUDIO/VIDIO settings and make sure MIRROR ON DESKTOP is selected under the PLAYBACK OUTPUT section
Shane

Video out from G5 to DSR-45 to monitor

I use a SONY DSR-45 to dump footage into my Mac.
I also firewire back out TO the DSR-45 and then S-video to a 14" SONY Monitor to view during editing.
The problem is I lost connection to the monitor. it has to be a software setting as I can play tapes in the DSR-45 and see on the monitor.
I also see the footage on the monitor when I log and capture.
Anyone have a clue which setting in the preferences is the correct one?
Thanks!
Jim

#8 External Monitor Viewing.
Shane's Stock Answer #8:
A simple path is mac > firewire > camera or deck > rca cables > tv
Then start up your camera and tv, then open fcp.
Then go View > External video > all frames
Video playback should be Apple firewire NTSC (If you are using an NTSC set)
Audio playback should be Audio follows Video
Techinially, this should send synched video to your TV
If for some reason you can't view your timeline on your external monitor, there are a few things to try:
1) Make sure that the camera/deck is connected and powered on BEFORE you open FCP.
2) In the Final Cut Pro menu select AUDIO/VIDEO Preferences and make sure your signal is being sent out thru Firewire DV.
3) Go to the menu and select VIEW>EXTERNAL>ALL FRAMES.
4) Click in the % box above the image and select FIT TO WINDOW.
5) Go to VIEW->refresh A/V devices
6) Make sure the Log & Capture window is closed
If you want it to play in both the canvas and the external monitor you need to go to the FINAL CUT PRO menu and select AUDIO/VIDIO settings and make sure MIRROR ON DESKTOP is selected under the PLAYBACK OUTPUT section
Shane

Video Output to NTSC monitor

I recently got new furniture, so of course, I unhooked everything and moved it around, and now, for some reason, I can't see video on my NTSC monitor. I know everything is hooked up correctly because I can log and capture and see video on the monitor; the video captures correctly with audio and everything. But when watching video in the timeline, there's nothing happening on the monitor. Any suggestions? Has this happened to anyone else?
I have switched out firewire cables, rebooted the computer, etc. I'm so confused!

#8 External Monitor Viewing.
Shane's Stock Answer #8:
A simple path is mac > firewire > camera or deck > rca cables > tv
Then start up your camera and tv, then open fcp.
Then go View > External video > all frames
Video playback should be Apple firewire NTSC (If you are using an NTSC set)
Audio playback should be Audio follows Video
Techinially, this should send synched video to your TV
If for some reason you can't view your timeline on your external monitor, there are a few things to try:
1) Make sure that the camera/deck is connected and powered on BEFORE you open FCP.
2) In the Final Cut Pro menu select AUDIO/VIDEO Preferences and make sure your signal is being sent out thru Firewire DV.
3) Go to the menu and select VIEW>EXTERNAL>ALL FRAMES.
4) Click in the % box above the image and select FIT TO WINDOW.
5) Go to VIEW->refresh A/V devices
6) Make sure the Log & Capture window is closed
If you want it to play in both the canvas and the external monitor you need to go to the FINAL CUT PRO menu and select AUDIO/VIDIO settings and make sure MIRROR ON DESKTOP is selected under the PLAYBACK OUTPUT section
Shane

Viewing on external NTSC monitor

Here is my setup, I have a Dual 2.7 GHz G5 with a X800XT 256 MB video card with ADC and DVI outs. I had an older card in there with 2 DVI's connectors and one of them had a DVI to Video Adapter to the NTSC and all was fine.
When I got the new video card I had to plug the LCD into the DVI connector and I installed an older ATI Radeon PCI card to runt he NTSC monitor. Not sure what model the the older card is but it does have an svideo out and DVI out. I have tried with the NTSC monitor plugged into the DVI connector with the DVI to Video adapter and plugged directly into the svideo out. Plugged into the DVI and adaptor the video is distorted and unusable plugged in directly to the Svideo port the video works fine but I can't get Final Cut or anything else to recognize it as the NTSC video out device.
My thought is that either the PCI card I have is too old for the Apps to recognize it, or that the Apps with only work with the primary AGP graphics Card.
Has anyone else had this problem? and is there an easy solution?
I have a ADC to DVI adaptor on order to give my new video card dual DVI outputs hopping that will fix the issue.
thanks
Ken

Easy solution...don't do this. Route the signal thru your deck or camera:
#8 External Monitor Viewing.
Shane's Stock Answer #8:
A simple path is mac > firewire > camera or deck > rca cables > tv
Then start up your camera and tv, then open fcp.
Then go View > External video > all frames
Video playback should be Apple firewire NTSC (If you are using an NTSC set)
Audio playback should be Audio follows Video
Techinially, this should send synched video to your TV
If for some reason you can't view your timeline on your external monitor, there are a few things to try:
1) Make sure that the camera/deck is connected and powered on BEFORE you open FCP.
2) In the Final Cut Pro menu select AUDIO/VIDEO Preferences and make sure your signal is being sent out thru Firewire DV.
3) Go to the menu and select VIEW>EXTERNAL>ALL FRAMES.
4) Click in the % box above the image and select FIT TO WINDOW.
5) Go to VIEW->refresh A/V devices
6) Make sure the Log & Capture window is closed
If you want it to play in both the canvas and the external monitor you need to go to the FINAL CUT PRO menu and select AUDIO/VIDIO settings and make sure MIRROR ON DESKTOP is selected under the PLAYBACK OUTPUT section
Shane

FCP 4: NTSC monitor image FROZEN/movie plays JITTERY in canvas window.

Hey guys. This started yesterday. Every time I hit play, the image from the frame I began playing at on the timeline remains frozen on my NTSC monitor, while the movie plays jittery, roughly, totally unsmoothly in the canvas window. I'm pretty sure I've tried all of Shane's answers, but right now I'm stuck. Any help is immensely appreciated.
PowerPC G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Shane's stock answers addresses this, but make sure
that under the View mene that you are set to "All
Frames" and not "Single Frame"
Yeah, I had that covered from the beginning, but this sucker is stuck on whatever frame I begin to play from.
Powerbook G3 Pismo 500 Mac OS X (10.3.7)
Powerbook G3 Pismo 500 Mac OS X (10.3.7)

Video on NTSC monitor

Hi..
I have my monitor set up through firewire. I can capture just fine but i can not seem to get video from the timeline or the canvas (or viewer) to show up on the monitor. I have external video-all frames checked. I have mirror on desktop checked. If I log out and then come back into the program, everything is fine and the timeline shows the video. thoughts?

here is my big list:
#8 External Monitor Viewing.
Shane's Stock Answer #8:
A simple path is mac > firewire > camera or deck > rca cables > tv
Then start up your camera and tv, then open fcp.
Then go View > External video > all frames
Video playback should be Apple firewire NTSC (If you are using an NTSC set)
Audio playback should be Audio follows Video
Techinially, this should send synched video to your TV
If for some reason you can't view your timeline on your external monitor, there are a few things to try:
1) Make sure that the camera/deck is connected and powered on BEFORE you open FCP.
2) In the Final Cut Pro menu select AUDIO/VIDEO Preferences and make sure your signal is being sent out thru Firewire DV.
3) Go to the menu and select VIEW>EXTERNAL>ALL FRAMES.
4) Click in the % box above the image and select FIT TO WINDOW.
5) Go to VIEW->refresh A/V devices
6) Make sure the Log & Capture window is closed
If you want it to play in both the canvas and the external monitor you need to go to the FINAL CUT PRO menu and select AUDIO/VIDIO settings and make sure MIRROR ON DESKTOP is selected under the PLAYBACK OUTPUT section
Shane

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