Straight answer about P6N SLI x16 slot

I did a search about this, and found some threads, but they never really answered the question.
Can I use a PCI-E x1 NIC in the second PCI-E x16 slot of my P6N SLI MOBO? I can't use my x1 slot due to an after market cooler for my chipset. I would like to hear from someone who actually tried to do this or MSI tech. My onboard NIC loses connection briefly on occasion. So I put in a PCI NIC and it resolved my problem. My issue is that it is not a Gigabit NIC. So I want to upgrade, and I heard only good things about this Intel NIC that happens to be PCI-E x1.
Thanks in advance for any help on this subject.

Quote from: jason str on 29-August-08, 13:37:37
If your board has adjustments for the Northbridge chipset in bios try experimenting, i found that 600 mhz and 1.3 volts increased performance on my P6N diamond.
I've tried to overclock everything including processor, northbridge, memory and graphics card, the result is only about 100 points more, where I'm looking for like 1400 points more in 3DMark 2006 and whooping 4000 points in 3DMark 2005.
Quote
Be sure to run driversweeper in between driver changes too for best results.
http://www.guru3d.com/index.php?page=driversweeper
I'm using driversweeper everytime I change drivers. Even fresh Windows install gives me the same results...

Similar Messages

How do you get straight answers about Apple products?

I'm trying to gather information on buying Apple products and my posts keep getting deleted.
So, I'm not even going to ask why my posts were deleted because I'm sure you have some reason for everything. What I am going to ask is where I can go to get real, uncensored answers about Apple computers so I can be an informed consumer, not just someone who is "wowed" by fancy packaging and the glowing apple logo.
Thanks,
Jeff
Message was edited by: Eric W.

The problem I have is that there is an illogical mentality on this forum for a logical thought process of the user.
I am thinking of buying a mac...so strangely enough I come to Apple.com. I look around and realize that the sales pitches are fine and all, but they're not answering my questions.
So step two, look for an email address so I can contact Apple and ask them the answers to my questions....no email.
Ok, so next step, I come to the forums where I am already a member due to previous problems with another Apple product.
I make a post detailing my current options, thoughts, and questions.
In the REAL WORLD things aren't as black and white as Apple.com would lead you to believe so I asked some real world questions relating to both technical and advice from other Mac users.
The thread was closed down due to violating some terms. Even though I was saying right in my post that while I had other options I didn't want to discuss them here, I just wanted to discuss my Macbook related questions.
Doesn't matter though. It was deleted and that was that.
So what does that do? What it does is a few things.
1. It makes the Apple forum seem cliche. You can't complain or the "Apple minions" will put you in your place and break a pinky just so you rememmber.
2. It makes a potential customer like me very reluctant to buy the products because I don't feel good about the illusion of support based on whether it is favorable to Apple.
3. It doesn't answer my questions. I posted the exact same topic on the Vista forum and it's still going, at post 30 and there is a lot of good advice even though I'm talking about installing vista on a Mac or the other way around.
Then...I get the same thing every time I come on this forum. A majority of people making **** sure they find a way to tell me I'm the one out of line and that Apple can do no wrong.
Regardless, it says a lot about a company when you ask questions and they are deleted because they're not favorable for whatever reason. It makes me say, "Well screw it then, I'll stick with what has worked and what I know"
Message was edited by: crazylegsmurphy
Message was edited by: crazylegsmurphy

Where is my back-ordered phone? Can't get a straight answer about my order

Where is my phone? I ordered the iphone 6 on the phone with a Verizon rep and had a del. date of Oct 7. Ordered on release date, Sept 19.
Every time I call, since there is no notice whatsoever in my bill or account that this happened, its a different story each time, but no tracking number, no confirmation email that it is shipped. It should have been shipped days ago!
I have the email with the confirmation number and completed order with details from Sept 19. in an email. Verizon account: Zippo. Others have gotten the phone early and ordered when I did. What is going on? I'm fed up with this and about to just withdrawal the order. This was supposed to be my first smart phone, and should not be aggravating. IF Verizon would be smart enough to recognize that, I'd be a new smart phone customer. I've been with the company 13 years! Supposedly "qualified" for their "loyalty customer" plan even. Never thought I would have this many company reps say either vague or outright stupid things like it was shipped only to find out they were reading the order for the case for the non-delivered phone. I can read the information correctly, but the people paid to do this can't? I mean, it is their job to accurately read an order, isn't it? I call every week or twice this past wk since I expected a confirmation email on shipping. What is going on? I'm positive they messed up my order and won't admit it so I won't get the order. I'm bowing out if that is the case.

I know how important it is for you to confirm your new phone is on the way, waitingstill. We definitely don't want to see you leave! I sent you a private message. Please check your inbox here in the forums to reply with the details I'll need to ensure your phone is on the way.
JenniferH_VZW
Follow us on Twitter www.twitter.com/vzwsupport

Cannot Get a Straight Answer About Phone number transfer

I signed up for FIOS, and I requested that the assigned number be changed to a number that was presented to me but I didn't select (system locked up and next time I went to enroll it didn't present me with the same numbers).
My installer notified Verizon of the number request I made (which was still unassigned). I have emailed, called, and spoke with a supervisor at Verizon and none of them have verified that the order is even in place. They say that they "can't see it in the system" and it could take 30 days.
If the "phone company" can't see it in the system who's minding the store?!
If anyone knows what to do please help!
TIA
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Sorry to hear that your having trouble with the phone numbers. I have sent you a private message on this issue.
Anthony_VZ
**If someones post has helped you, please acknowledge their assistance by clicking the red thumbs up button to give them Kudos. If you are the original poster and any response gave you your answer, please mark the post that had the answer as the solution**
Notice: Content posted by Verizon employees is meant to be informational and does not supersede or change the Verizon Forums User Guidelines or Terms or Service, or your Customer Agreement Terms and Conditions or plan

Apple -clueless about its own software !! can anybody give me a straight answer to this ?

APPLE - clueless about its own software !!! Can anybody please give me a straight answer to this question - how do I zero out my Apple SSD ??
I have spoken to Apple engineers in-store and via phone support and nobody seems to know how to do it, in fact the guys at the retail store were not even aware that the option for secure erase has been disabled for macs with SSD running Lion. Now im aware that some people will say this is to protect the lifetime of the SSD, but this is irrelevant as Apple SSD's running Lion has TRIM utility. Furthermore to save people's time you cannot do it by externalling booting or by holding down C or CMD+R !
So, has anyone got a simple method for this, it cant be impossible !
Please help

mj25 wrote:
APPLE - clueless about its own software !!! Can anybody please give me a straight answer to this question - how do I zero out my Apple SSD ??
I have spoken to Apple engineers in-store and via phone support and nobody seems to know how to do it, in fact the guys at the retail store were not even aware that the option for secure erase has been disabled for macs with SSD running Lion. Now im aware that some people will say this is to protect the lifetime of the SSD, but this is irrelevant as Apple SSD's running Lion has TRIM utility. Furthermore to save people's time you cannot do it by externalling booting or by holding down C or CMD+R !
So, has anyone got a simple method for this, it cant be impossible !
Please help
then if not coming up on google, apple or asking here, then is maybe impossible to do genius. you politeness get you lot of help here.

Why can't we get a straight answer from Apple about updater issues?

Why are there thousands and thousands of posts from people all having the same issue? We try to update IPod software using latest updater, and it causes IPod to no longer be recognized. All we want is someone from Apple to FIX THE PROBLEM! Yet all we get are refferals to complicated articles that never seem to work for at least half the people. Clearly it is a problem with these updaters. WHY IS APPLE NOT FIXING THIS ISSUE? Can anyone give me a straight answer!?

Hi Wolf,
Welcome to Apple Discussions
"thousands and thousands of posts"
There are roughly 10,300 thread with 50,000 posts in the iPod Nano forum, and there are probably another 500,000 who don't even know it exists. I don't there there has been a thousand posts on the updater issue. It may seem like thousands upon thousands, but don't forget; you're at an Apple Support Forum.
"All we want is someone from Apple to FIX THE PROBLEM!thousands and thousands of posts"
There's no need to "shout". I don't think Apple is going to hear you from shouting in a user to user forum. Nor will you probably get a answer (here) from Apple for the same reason. I have a -------- (straight) answer for you. I don't know what's going on specifically (no one really knows in this forum because they are all users. Anyone who would know won't say), but I can assure you that Apple isn't ignoring the issue. They are the quickest to respond to any problem that comes their way. If you would like to get Apple's attention, I don't suggest ranting and raving in the iPod user to user forum. I suggest submitting polite feedback to Apple here.
Jon

P6N SLI V2 performance problem

My computer
Mainboard: MSI P6N SLI V2
Processor: Intel E2180 Allendale
Memory: OCZ DDR2 PC2-6400 Special Ops 2GB
Graphics Card: Palit Geforce 8600GT DDR3 256MB
PSU Chieftec GPS-500AB-A (500 Watts)
Mainboard is set to work in non-SLI mode and LED indicates, that the card in PCI-Express slot works in x16 but the benchmarks says something a quite different. 3DMark 2005 says 5500 points, 3DMark 2006 - 3500 points, all tested games works slower that they should be on this type of computer. Computer runs on Windows XP SP2 with the latest drivers and DirectX libraries. I checked whether it is a graphics card's fault, but I used different 8600GT made by Galaxy, and the scores were identical. I borrowed this card from a friend, his gig is: Athlon X2 4000+ and Asus M2N-E SLI mainboard and his 3DMark scores are basically 60% higher than mine. I don't know what seems to be the problem, all temperatures (CPU, mainboard chipsets and GPU) are normal, so does voltage on all rails. Computer is fully stable, the only problem is this strange low performance...

Quote from: jason str on 29-August-08, 13:37:37
If your board has adjustments for the Northbridge chipset in bios try experimenting, i found that 600 mhz and 1.3 volts increased performance on my P6N diamond.
I've tried to overclock everything including processor, northbridge, memory and graphics card, the result is only about 100 points more, where I'm looking for like 1400 points more in 3DMark 2006 and whooping 4000 points in 3DMark 2005.
Quote
Be sure to run driversweeper in between driver changes too for best results.
http://www.guru3d.com/index.php?page=driversweeper
I'm using driversweeper everytime I change drivers. Even fresh Windows install gives me the same results...

P6N SLI Platinum random shutdowns

System:
MSI P6N SLI Platinum MoBo
Intel E6750 CPU
Etasis 850W PSU
Corsair CM2X1024-6400C4 RAM (using only 1 stick while troubleshooting)
MSI NX8600GTS GPU
OK, this is a strange one. I put my new system together and everything seemed to be working fine. POST looked OK, and I was even able to install Windows. Everything seemed stable.
One thing that troubled me was that the lights on the D-Bracket were all red AFTER POST. In other words everything was working, but the LEDs were showing CPU problem. I tried everything I could think of to get the lights to go away, but nothing worked. I disconnected all HDs, DVD, and floppy drives. I reset the BIOS, and reseated the CPU. I tried putting RAM in different slots, tried both sticks solo, but nothing made any difference.
It was getting late, so I decided to go to bed and run memtest86+ over night. When I got up this morning the system had powered itself down. When I turned it on again it powered itself off within a minute of being turned on. This was with all the drives hooked up, so I disconnected everything and now it's been sitting happily in the BIOS for over 30 minutes.
So at this point, it seems like it could be a power supply issue. Unfortunately, I don't have another PSU with an 8-pin CPU connector that I can try in this system. Any thoughts? Next steps to try?
Other possibly useful facts:
When I boot into the BIOS the D-Bracket lights show #3 green, and all others red, indicating "initializing keyboard controller". But when I boot past the BIOS to a CDROM or Windows, they show all red, indicating "CPU problem"
The system makes a brief chirp the POST screen. It doesn't sound like a beep code to me, and I've heard some boards will do an "everything's OK" beep like this. But it could be important so there it is.
Although it seems happier with all the drives disconnected (indicating a PSU problem), it still shows all red LEDs on the D-Bracket (indicating a CPU problem).
This is not the first system I've built, and I was fairly careful about putting everything together the right way. The only goof I know of is that at one point I was unplugging and re-plugging things and I ran the system for a while without connecting PCIE power to the GPU. Could that have broken something?
Any help would be much appreciated.
-Steve

UPDATE: I tried hooking up my old 400W PSU with 20-pin ATX and 4-pin CPU connectors (apparently this is OK to do) but there was no change. Still four red LEDs.
I also tried removing the PCI-E GPU and booted it up with an antique PCI VGA card. Again, no change. Maybe I really did get a bad CPU?
Any other ideas, before I try to return my CPU?

Evga 8800gt issue with my P6N SLI

I recently purchased a bunch of new parts to build my new computer.
MSI P6N SLI
6750 core 2 duo
EVGA 8800GT OC
G.skill 4GB (2 x 2gb sticks)
430W PSU *yes with enough amps for the card.. 3 12v rails totals 30+amps
The problem im having is the card isnt picking up the monitor signal. I dont get the 3 bleeps or whatever that lets you know either the card is dead or the socket is dead so it cant be that.
Any ideas.. im pretty confident everything is working as all fans come on.. lights on MB come on as well as the fan on the 8800GT..
Please help im lost.
Thanks.

Unfortunately i dont have another card to try.. although i plan to go to a friends house later today and see if it works on his comp.
I've hooked up my 4pin connector as well as the 24pin
I have a 6pin pci-e from my psu connected as well.
I've tried using one stick of RAM and tested all Dimm slotts.
I used the x16 PCI-e slot for my 8800gt.. the x8 is empy.. and SLI card is facing the right direction for single card mode.
Also how do i update my bios if i dont have access to a cpu that it supports in its previous bios.. i JUST bought this MB from newegg and would assume it'd be up to date with the current bios.. *least i'd hope*
PSU INFO:
Product Features
ANTEX
430-watt power supply
Active Power Factor Correction (PFC)
Heavy-duty protection circuitry prevents damage resulting from short circuits (SCP), power overloads (OPP, overvoltages (OVP) and under voltages (UVP)
Feedback loop circuits for tight load regulation to maintain accurate voltage to all components
120mm low-noise cooling fan; fan-only power connectors control case fan speeds, reducing system noise
4 SATA connectors for Serial ATA drives
ATX 12V version 2.2 compliance
Output connectors: 1 PCI-E, three 12V circuits, 4 SATA; dedicated outputs for stable output and less ripple noise
Gold-plated connectors for enhanced conductivity
Output Voltage
Load Range Reg. Ripple Noise
Min Max
+5V 0.3A 15.0A ±3％ 50 50
+12V1 1.0A 16.0A ±3％ 120 120
+12V2 1.0A 16.0A ±3％ 120 120
+12V3 1.0A 16.0A ±3％ 120 120
-12V 0 A 0.8A ±6％ 120 120
+5VSB 0 A 3.0A ±3％ 50 50
+3.3V 0.5A 22.0A ±3％ 50 50
I bought this PSU today at bestbuy.. not the best place to overspend at but i wanted a quick fix to my old PSU that didnt have enough amps. According to EVGA website they said to add the amps for ALL 12v rails.. if its greater then 20a then your ok.. maybe it was 30a.. either case i've met that.
Thanks for your quick response.

P6n sli platinum + e4300 oc

I've read tons of posts on forums, but most just give FSB speeds, not actual numbers to use in setting the system clock, so how do we know what to use actually?
When do you use the 1:1 ratio? or any of the others if your motherboard BIOS doesn't let you manually set your memory multiplier?
I have the updated BIOS from MSI LiveUpdater and Web
I've Disabled the following in BIOS
Execute Bit Disable
Set Limit CPUID MaxVal to 3
HPET
CPU Smart FAN Target
D.O.T. Control
Intel EIST
All Spread Spectrum including:
CPU Spread Spectrum
PCIE Spread Spectrum
CPU/LDT Spread Spectrum
SATA Spread Spectrum
Questions
System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
Which is best and when to use for what?
I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
at idle and were 65C under full load.
Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
Last night I got to FSB1600
Mem 800
with 8x multiplier
very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I
can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
Voltage 1.8 - 2.0
I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
My Setup
Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 Allendale 1.8GHz
ZALMAN CNPS9500 LED 92mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan with Heatsink
Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound
MSI P6N SLI Platinum 650i
G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel
COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05 Case
Thermaltake TR2 ATX 430W
EVGA GeForce 8600GT 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card
Western Digital Caviar SE 160GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb
$700 exactly with shipping from NEWEGG
PURE BUDGET BUILD

Hello welcome to the forum,
Quote
System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
Which is best and when to use for what?
I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
at idle and were 65C under full load.
System clock I believe is how the memory freq is generated. "Auto" would be automatic, "Linked" would be linked to FSB speed, "Manual" wold be manually setting the speed.
65c on the cores or the CPU? Because if it's the cores, drop down, anywhere over 60c and your CPU may start skipping cycles.
Quote
Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
Last night I got to FSB1600
Mem 800
with 8x multiplier
very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
CPU ratio is the multiplier in which you times the FSB speed to generate/set the CPU clock. E.g:
Code: [Select]
FSB of 100x10 (cpu ratio) = 1000MHz CPU core speed.
Quote
CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I
can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
yes only increase for stability, never increase because you think you may need too.
Quote
Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
Voltage 1.8 - 2.0
I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
They are fine, just don't go over 2.3v, your RAM chips will start to fry otherwise.
Quote
NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
No, wrong way to do it. Do it like CPU VCore, only increase when stability is needed. Also monitor temperatures of NB as much as your CPU. Fan speeds don't bother me either, but temps do! Watch them at all times when overclocking.
Quote
SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
Only increase if you need to, the SB core is usually the last voltage that needs increasing.
Quote
FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
It's the voltage you supply to the FSB bus, too much and you will kill the FSB and your mainboard will be a fancy paper weight. Only increase when stability is needed, just like every other voltage.

P6N SLI PLATINUM CMOS BAD CHECKSUM ERROR TIME DATE

I have the same problem. It’s driving me crazy. Here is my specs:
MSI P6N SLI Platinum LGA 775
Intel Core 2 Duo E6420 2.13GHz 4M shared L2 Cache
Foxconn GeForce 7900GS 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16
Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD7500AAKS 750GB 7200 RPM
Kingston KHX6400D2LLK2/2G 2GB kit PC2-6400 800MHZ
LG DVD GSA-H50N DVD-R 18X
Matsu"I'm a potty mouth"a Floppy drive
Windows XP 32-Bit
CoolerMaster RP-500-PCAR – 500W
+3.3V +5V +12V1 +12V2 -5V -12V +5VSB
20A 20A 16A 16A 0.8A 0.8A 2.0A
Sometimes the computer boots ok, and everything works great.
Sometimes it just doesn’t boot, it just gives a blank screen. So, I press reset and the post gives the CMOS CHECKSUM BAD. F1 to setup F2 to default.
If I go to the setup everything is just like I left, including the time. Even if I setup the bios with default configuration, the problem continues.
Here is a list of everything I have tried
1) Replaced the battery 2 times. I checked with a multimeter. It’s 3V allright
2) Disconnected everything leaving only 1GB memory and the graphics card
3) Updated the bios version several times, to make sure I did it ok. I cleared the CMOS after allright
4) I read every post in this forum about bios and P6N SLI Platinum
5) Already checked the D-BRACKET. It shows 4 green leds when the screen is blank
6) Already checked fans: CPU and graphics fans works ok
7) Already tested with memtest86+ V2.01
8) Already upped the northbridge to 1.325V, CPU 3 notches and the memory another 3 notches.
So anyone has any ideas, or I’ll just have to go to a computer store and swap the graphics or the PSU and try to see if the problem vanishes??? It’s gonna be tough… they don’t like to let you test the merchandise….
PS: Thanks for all the help so far that you have been giving to TheGimp, after all, we have the same problem…

I had the same problem after ~8months of trouble free service; it was intermittent too. sometimes it would boot fine, others times i'd get the error message. I removed the battery to test it. it was fine. i cleared the cmos with the button while the battery was removed. i noticed that the battery holder seems not to be anchored to the board at all. I haven't confirmed this but it looks like the protruding metal clip holds it all together. i had contacted MSI support about the problem earlier. they told me to clear the cmos. i asked about the battery holder not being secure on the board, and, as in the typical support response to an unusual question, they gave me some vague, undecipherable response. So, anyway when i put the battery back in, i felt the holder kind of click into place. I haven't had any problems since.

MSI P6N SLI

Hi guys,
On this board (P6N SLI V2), there is a white light which indicates 12v is present when the light. However, the white LED goes off when JPW2 is plugged in (a 4 pin 'molex' connector which "supplies extra power to the PCI-E slots"). However the 12v must still be there because everything works fine and the system powers up and is stable.
Does anyone know why this is? The system works and boots fine!
Tom

Only if you leave your pci-e unplugged .
But no, it's fine the way it is now
Some PCI-E cards do not need any extra juice and get sufficient out of the slot, like mine (that's why it's a s....y card, cannot oc any further ).
You either have an option to help your slot to some extra juice so, you can oc cards like mine, without extra 6 pins powerconnector on the graphicscard, a litlle further.
Or your pci-e needs to be connected before it works.
So dont worry about it, most MSI boards when functioning normal have a green and orange led and some an extra yellow, like yours on, if I'm not mistaking .

P6N SLI Platinum mobo with hard drive/sata crashes

i've experienced a (now recurring) problem with my hardware over the past several months. i've come home from work twice now, once about 2 months ago, the other just today to find my computer stuck at the windows xp loading screen. if i tried to reboot the system, it would hang at that point, until i disconnected the offending drive/sata channel (i had 3 hard drives in my system, 1 150gb drive with operating system, ect, and 2 500gb drives for storage (mp3s, video, ect). i've narrowed the problem down to either the motherboard or the sata cables (i don't have spare cables to test with), as the hard drives work perfectly in an external usb enclosure. any ideas of what could be wrong?
basic system stats:
msi P6N SLI platinum motherboard
intel core 2 duo E6600 2.4ghz processor
crucial ballistix DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) 2 gb SDRAM
EVGA GeForce 8800 GTS video card
western digital raptor 150gb 10k rpm SATA hard drive
western digital caviar 500gb 7200 rpm SATA hard drive
PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750w power supply

in brief,
1- if you have one memory it should be in slot 1, closest to cpu, if two X 1Gb then they should be in one and three.
2- do you know what is virtual memory if so have you made adjustment or not.
3- you have freeze due to wrong bios setting till we get a good picture of your bios difficult to pin point the mistake, so use either a digi cam or web cam and take shoots of your bios then we can pin point the mistakes

P6N-SLi 650i RAM Problem

Hi guys,
I just bought an MSI motherboard - P6N-SLi with the 650i chipset and 430 southbridge. It's a nice motherboard - although that northbridge is pretty hot.
Anyway - I bought a gig of Ram for it too - 2x512Mb OCZ which I know to be some decent enough memory.
The problem is - on the first night whilst installing win xp - it froze. no BSOD - no restart - just froze. I tried again and it was fine. Once XP was installed etc - it began to freeze - totally lock up - every few mins. I had to restart every time. I ran stress tests in the new gfx card (nvidia 8800gts) which was fine. I checked temps and ran other tests and the CPU and PSU and HDDs were all fine.
I had my two sticks of RAM in DIMM 1 and DIMM 3 as the manual said. I then took these out and put them in DIMM 2 and 4. Works perfectly now.
Any ideas why - and if so - whether two more sticks in 1 and 3 would cause issues if I was to upgrade??
Should i send this mobo back? Is it faulty? Or maybe I am missing a BIOS update or setting?
Help is greatly appreciated. - I'm not a n00b, just stuck

Quote from: bobak2000 on 03-March-07, 10:04:31
I had my two sticks of RAM in DIMM 1 and DIMM 3 as the manual said. I then took these out and put them in DIMM 2 and 4. Works perfectly now.
Damn MSI's memory slot color-coding! ...
Ok, just so we're all talking about the same thing, when I look at my (Platinum version) manual, on page 2-7, it's titled "Memory" at the top and has images below there showing 3 alternate configurations for memory. If you look closely at the lables on the right-hand side of the images, the slots are labeled:
DIMM1 (green, closest to processor)
DIMM3 (green)
DIMM2 (orange, closest to processor)
DIMM4 (orange)
...note that the second one is actually labeled "DIMM3", not DIMM2, as you might expect. So the manual is in fact telling you to install into DIMM1 & DIMM2 - not DIMM1 & DIMM3. In other words, in the green slot closest to processor and in the orange slot closest to processor - those are DIMM1 & DIMM2. So, unlike pretty much every other board manufacture, to run in dual-channel mode, you need to have one stick in a green slot and one stick in an orange slot. It sounds like you were putting them in the right slots... just calling them the wrong names .
Now that that's cleared up ... can you list the exact part number of your ram?
Quote from: bobak2000 on 03-March-07, 10:04:31
I don't seem to be hearing anything positive about this motherboard to be fair.
No offense intended, but:
a) "To be fair", There's LOTs of positive things being reported from MSI P6N owners... I think we tend to focus in on the negative reports (human nature), or ones that confirm what we suspect to be the case. I'll grant you that there are some people reporting problems, but that's true about pretty much every board out there. I may be guilty of the oposite effect, but as far as I can tell, there's actually a lot more positive than negative being reported about these boards, so I'm a little confused that you haven't seen anything positive (?).
b) Also human nature, people who are generally happy or not having problems tend not to post anything at all. So you're much more likely to see negative reports to begin with.
...you're actually the second person I've seen report this particular problem (Edge1, who just posted is the other one). It's pretty puzzling, for sure. If you can post the model/part number of the memory you're using, maybe we can figure something out. I think Edge made some progress earlier by bumping the mem voltage up to what the memory was rated for.. have you tried that?

P6n SLI PLATINUM bios v1.2

So I upgraded to 4gb ram finally, and have got it to work without errors in dimm slots 2 and 4, and have been having performance issues such as slow loading, stuttering in games, and just in general slowdown with loading up applications, but absolutely no crashes or freezes of any kind, no BSODs or anything else that would be hardware related I assume.
Defragged, fresh install of windows 7, video card drivers updated and everything else checks out fine. The only thing I can think of is that over in HardForum doing a google search brought me to this post:http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1164174 with issues related to 4gb on the mainboard having slowdowns with older bios versions.
Seeing as how this is relevant to me getting new memory, my patriot memory gave out with BSODs so I was forced to upgrade but had way better performance with just 2gb stick of ram (even in win7).
Should I do a bios update?
Specs:
EVGA 8800gts 540mb 195.62 driver
4gb A-Data ram 5-5-5-12 2t clock, 1.9v
Windows 7 64-bit
Bios v1.2 A7350NMS P6N SLI Platinum Socket LGA-775
Core2duo E6600 @2.4ghz
I haven't really done much upgrading since I purchased this a few years back, and quite surprised to see the hit and stuttering in performance in games all of a sudden after upgrading to new ram, and the ram tested out fine for 3 days straight doing multiple passes with memtest 4.0. I tried doing it in DIMM slots 1 and 3 but have been getting errors, maybe I've got a bad board?
Quite confused as to what step I need to take next, thanks for any help!

Quote
Should I do a bios update?
Yes. >>Use the MSI HQ Forum USB flasher<<

Straight answer about P6N SLI x16 slot

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for