Strange box on my images in Photoshop

Hi I'm getting this box appearing in Photoshop when working on my images.
Does anyone know what would cause this?

Please post the screenshot properly, that is with the whole window and pertinent Panels visible.

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Basic Photoshop 101: I want to use an image with an outer glow in another Photoshop document. When I place the image, the outer glow has hard edges where the box of the image cut the glow off. Naturally, I want a soft feathered outer glow. How do I get th

Basic Photoshop 101: I want to use an image with an outer glow in another Photoshop document. When I place the image, the outer glow has hard edges where the box of the image cut the glow off. Naturally, I want a soft feathered outer glow. How do I achieve that? Thank you.

That should work out, maybe edit it to force updating in the new image.
Could you please post a screenshot with the Layers Panel visible?

InDesign CS3 "White Box" when printing with linked Photoshop EPS files

This problem has been covered before, but never really resolved:
Robert Levine, "InDesign CS3 Erratic White Box Phenomenon with Placed Photoshop EPS files" #1, 1 Apr 2008 11:05 am
Now, I'm aware that we should no longer be using EPS files. I wholeheartedly agree. But until we can convince the department to change to another format (namely PSD or TIFF) for our vast library of images, I need a workaround.
It seems that setting the clipping path for each linked image to "Photoshop Clipping Path" resolves this issue. So I tried writing an AppleScript that would find each linked Photoshop EPS and set it's clipping path to "Photoshop clipping path", but it didn't work for me (my expertise with AppleScript is basically nil.)
Can anyone assist with the creation of this script? Or does anyone have a better suggestion for solving or working around the Photoshop EPS erratic white box printing problem?
Thanks!

>Why??????????
Because they've got zillions of EPS and have no time to resave them all and because it
b should
work even if Buko doesn't like EPS...
(Your vendetta against EPS takes on strange proportions. Were you bitten as a child by a rabid EPS and have sworn to wipe them out? Must be an interesting story behind it ;) )
Brian, this script seems to do the job with one very important caveat: I see no way of finding out which path is active in the EPS (in case that more than one). So the script simply activates the first in the list.
tell application "Adobe InDesign CS3"
set aDoc to active document
set allLinks to links of aDoc
repeat with n from 1 to (count allLinks)
set aLink to item n of allLinks
if link type of aLink is "EPS" then
   set anEPS to parent of aLink
   tell clipping path of anEPS
    set ePaths to photoshop path names
    if (count ePaths) > 0 then
     set clipping type to photoshop path
     set applied path name to item 1 of ePaths
    end if
   end tell
end if
end repeat
end tell

Opening raw images in Photoshop Elements 9

When opening raw images in Photoshop Elements 9 (File -> Open or File -> Open As), the Adobe Camera Raw dialog do not open.
Instead I get a window with a progress bar and the text "Reading Camera Raw Format".
The image then opens in the Photoshop Elements editor.
I have tested this with raw images both from Canon EOS 1000D and Samsung WB2000 cameras.
I would appreciate any suggestions on how to solve this issue.
I run Photoshop Elements on a HP netbook running Widows XP and with an Intel Atom N450 / 1.66 GHz processor, 2 GB ram and a screen resolution of 1024 x 600 pixels.

Unfortunately you can't see the raw converter in PSE 9 on screens less than 800 px tall, which means not on netbooks. PSE will automatically convert it for you, but that dialog box and a few others, like the Advanced Downloader window, will not appear.

I need your help with a decision to use iPhoto. I have been a PC user since the mid 1980's and more recently have used ACDSee to manage my photo images and Photoshop to edit them. I have used ProShow Gold to create slideshows. I am comfortable with my

I need your help with a decision to use iPhoto. I have been a PC user since the mid 1980’s and more recently have used ACDSee to manage my photo images and Photoshop to edit them. I have used ProShow Gold to create slideshows. I am comfortable with my own folder and file naming conventions. I currently have over 23,000 images of which around 60% are scans going back 75 years. Since I keep a copy of the originals, the storage requirements for over 46,000 images is huge. 180GB plus.
I now have a Macbook Pro and will add an iMac when the new models arrive. For my photos, I want to stay with Photoshop which also gives me the Bridge. The only obvious reason to use iPhoto is to take advantage of Faces and the link to iMovie to make slideshows. What am I missing and is using iPhoto worth the effort?
If I choose to use iPhoto, I am not certain whether I need to load the originals and the edited versions. I suspect that just the latter is sufficient. If I set PhotoShop as my external editor, I presume that iPhoto will keep track of all changes moving forward. However, over 23,000 images in iPhoto makes me twitchy and they are appear hidden within iPhoto. In the past, I have experienced syncing problems with, and database errors in, large databases. If I break up the images into a number of projects, I loose the value of Faces reaching back over time.
Some guidance and insight would be appreciated. I have a number of Faces questions which I will save for later.

Bridge and Photoshop is a common file-based management system. (Not sure why you'd have used ACDSEE as well as Bridge.) In any event, it's on the way out. You won't be using it in 5 years time.
Up to this the lack of processing power on your computer left no choice but to organise this way. But file based organisation is as sensible as organising a Shoe Warehouse based on the colour of the boxes. It's also ultimately data-destructive.
Modern systems are Database driven. Files are managed, Images imported, virtual versions, lossless processing and unlimited editing are the way forward.
For a Photographer Photoshop is overkill. It's an enormously powerful app, a staple of the Graphic Designers' trade. A Photographer uses maybe 15% to 20% of its capability.
Apps like iPhoto, Lightroom, Aperture are the way forward - for photographers. There's the 20% of Photoshop that shooters actually use, coupled with management and lossless processing. Pop over to the Aperture or Lightroom forums (on the Adobe site) and one comment shows up over and over again... "Since I started using Aperture/ Lightroom I hardly ever use Photoshop any more..." and if there is a job that these apps can do, then the (much) cheaper Elements will do it.
The change is not easy though, especially if you have a long-standing and well thought out filing system of your own. The first thing I would strongly advise is that you experiment before making any decisions. So I would create a Library, import 300 or 400 shots and play. You might as well do this in iPhoto to begin with - though if you’re a serious hobbyist or a Pro then you'll find yourself looking further afield pretty soon. iPhoto is good for the family snapper, taking shots at birthdays and sharing them with friends and family.
Next: If you're going to successfully use these apps you need to make a leap: Your files are not your Photos.
The illustration I use is as follows: In my iTunes Library I have a file called 'Let_it_Be_The_Beatles.mp3'. So what is that, exactly? It's not the song. The Beatles never wrote an mp3. They wrote a tune and lyrics. They recorded it and a copy of that recording is stored in the mp3 file. So the file is just a container for the recording. That container is designed in a specific way attuned to the characteristics and requirements of the data. Hence, mp3.
Similarly, that Jpeg is not your photo, it's a container designed to hold that kind of data. iPhoto is all about the data and not about the container. So, regardless of where you choose to store the file, iPhoto will manage the photo, edit the photo, add metadata to the Photo but never touch the file. If you choose to export - unless you specifically choose to export the original - iPhoto will export the Photo into a new container - a new file containing the photo.
When you process an image in iPhoto the file is never touched, instead your decisions are recorded in the database. When you view the image then the Master is presented with these decisions applied to it. That's why it's lossless. You can also have multiple versions and waste no disk space because they are all just listings in the database.
These apps replace the Finder (File Browser) for managing your Photos. They become the Go-To app for anything to do with your photos. They replace Bridge too as they become a front-end for Photoshop.
So, want to use a photo for something - Export it. Choose the format, size and quality you want and there it is. If you're emailing, uploading to websites then these apps have a "good enough for most things" version called the Preview - this will be missing some metadata.
So it's a big change from a file-based to Photo-based management, from editing files to processing Photos and it's worth thinking it through before you decide.

Unable to load TIF images into Photoshop.

CS4 (11.0.2) and Windows 7 Home Edition.
Have developed a problem trying to load some TIF images into Photoshop. I have a large number of images archived over a decade or more. At this point it may some of the older files that exhibit the problem. Now all these files were edited and stored using the Photoshop versions during the complete time period. The files are always saved with no compression. Have tried to load from Photoshop and clicking on the file in a file list. Photoshop just hangs and I get the message Program not responding. I can take these same files and load them into the ROXIO photo editor with no problem. Stranger yet is if I simply load the file into the ROXIO editor then "save as" back into the same folder (overwrite) the file can then be brought into Photoshop with no problem! Any ideas?

Noel,
Will try to keep short.
I reinstalled Photoshop CS4 from the cd CS set. Did not uninstall first. Restarted PC and Photoshop. Still failed the same way with a 3001 image.
Did the following, changing one item in the Edit->Preference->GPU Setting. After each change, closed Photoshop, reopened, brought in 3001 image, restored original setting. 3001 failed each time.
* Unchecked Enable OpenGL Drawing
* Advanced setup: Unchecked Advanced Drawing.
* Advanced setup: Unchecked Color Matching
Next went to the Edit->Color Profile.
Scanned thru options and saw in the Convert Options: Engine. It was set to Adobe (ACE). ACE was the module name in the error detail!
Only other option for this is Microsoft ICM. Changed to that, close/open Photoshop and 3001 came in no problem. So did the Nikon 3000, srgb IEC 61922 2.1 and Untagged. However, when briging in an Adobe RGB(1998) image Photoshop notes Profile Mismatch. It allows me to decide what to do (use embedded profile instead of workspace; convert color to work space color; discard embedded profile. and I choose use the convert color and it loads ok. At least it loads the image! Will use this approach for now. I need to get educated on color profiles!!
Joe

My images in Photoshop CS5 show up black.?

My images in Photoshop CS5 show up black.?
CS5 and was working great yesterday..but today both all my images PSD, JPG show up black in the workspace.
The image is only visible when I am moving the window around and it shows up in the layer window fine.
I can't see my edits, and I have no idea how to turn it off, or get that Black not to show...
HELP, I need PS to work ASAP... Thanks to All... TOM

Have you tried deleting your preferences file?
I think it's CTRL, ALT, SHift when starting PS and that will brinf up a prompt box.

How do I resize an image in Photoshop CS2?

Hi! I'm trying to resize an image in Photoshop Cs2 with OUT making it grainy or blurred. Please help!? I know there's some key you can hold down while dragging with the mouse but eh I forgot it! o_0 please help!

Jody...
If you have a vector version of the logo, the smartest thing is to resize it as vectors to the size you want, and
then
rasterize it.
Case in point:
I was trying to make a 16px × 16px favicon for my blogspot site, and the only way I could get the details to appear nice and clean was to create the entire thing from shape layers, transform them all in one go to fit inside a 16px × 16px box I defined using guidelines, and THEN rasterize it using the Save For Web dialogue.

Bridge shows an image 72 ppi, but when I open the same image in Photoshop (CS5) it is showing 96 ppi???

Just reloaded Windows 7 last week, and reinstalled CS5. I don't remember this happening before the reinstall. Is there a setting I am missing?
Thanks in advance!

What this is telling you is the ppi value is missing from the metadata. Because it is in the metadata there is nothing to worry about. It can be added at any time with photoshop.
1)Open the image in Photoshop
2)Image>Image Size
3)Type in the correct ppi
4)click OK
5)Save file to disk File>Save or if you prefer to use another name to protect the original use File>Save As then type in a name and click OK.
The main information to protect is the pixel dimensions that pertains to the data it self. If these values change so does the data. To protect the pixel dimensions uncheck resample image if it is checked in the Image Size dialog box.

Handling RAW images in Photoshop vs. Photoshop Elements

Currently I am running trial versions of Photoshop CS4 and PSE7. For a great deal I am impressen about the functionality of PSE w.r.t. to its price/performance, but I miss some easy things that Photoshop has. Or am I doing things wrong?
When I open a raw (CR2) image in Photoshop CS 4 then the Camera Raw Plugin Window starts and opens the file. You can then change setting in the file which are saved not in the RAW file but an XMP file. Accordingly you can save the resulting image in many formats like dng, jpg, tiff, bmp, psd. That is very handy and straight forward. To have the changes in a separate tiny xmp-file saves a lot of diskspace.
When doing the same in PSE the Camera RAW converter starts and opens the file in the same way. Almost identical. However you can save the changes only in a DNG file, which has roughly the same size as the RAW file. A very expensive way to save changes on a RAW file. Why is not the same mechanism used??
Another difference in favor of Photoshop CS4 is the better and more versatile sharpening functionality. A Pity for a hobbyist that CS4 is so expensive and that some handy common used functionality is not present in FSE7.
Attached the about boxes of Camera Raw in CS4 resp PSE. Same version, but not same functionality . Confusing.

In Elements you open the file and save it in the editor instead.

Raw images in Photoshop CS5 and download of 7.3 plug-in

I am unable to open my Raw images from a Nikon D600 using CS 5. Also unable to download the 7.3 raw plug-in. Help wou;l be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Thanks, i will upgrade to CS6, make life easier!
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2012 11:33:29 -0700
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Raw images in Photoshop CS5 and download of 7.3 plug-in
    Re: Raw images in Photoshop CS5 and download of 7.3 plug-in
    created by John Waller in Downloading, Installing, Setting Up - View the full discussion
Camera Raw 7+ is only compatible with Photoshop CS6+ CS5's compatibility stopped with Raw 6.7 http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/camera-raw-compatible-applic ations.html If you don't upgrade Photoshop, your next best option is to convert your D600 Raw files to DNG and work on the DNGshttp://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/extend.displayTab2.htmlhttp://www.adobe.com/suppor t/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5486
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A strange box opens when launching application. It causes Firefox to freeze in place

When launching the most recent version of Firefox a strange box appears at the top that effectively keeps me from using the browser. Also, I can't seem to add an image to this request.

Add it in the Reply box.

Vector image in Photoshop?

Hi Guys
I trying to wrap a text around a circle in this Q1 logo here:
http://www.ollepersson.com/Q1SurfersParadise/index.html
The major problem is that the “bitmap” type image
distorts and become unreadable. I’ve tried vector images both
in Flash and Illustrator, but there I can’t find a text
wrapping function.
I’ve also transferred illustrator images to Photoshop,
but they convert automatically to bitmap.
So:
How can I create and work with vector images in Photoshop?
Or:
Where in the CS3 programs can I work with text manipulations
in a vector format?
Second issue:
It seems like Photoshop only wraps the text 180 degrees? If I
have a longer text the ends of the string will be straight down
from the 180-degree point?
THANKS GUYS!!!
Olle…

Ollep wrote:
> Thank SnakEye!!!
>
> I'm getting right back to illustrator now!!
>
>
> Olle...
As Snake says, Illustrator is an option. Just draw a circle
around your
logo, click on the 'text to path' tool click on the
circumference line
of the circle and start typing. To rotate the type to the
correct
position select the 'empty arrow' tool, click on the center
of the
circle, chosse the 'rotate' tool in the tool box and spin the
circle
around until its in the desired location.
Having said that....the text around that logo looks a bit too
small to
be read anyway as a gif or jpg file. You need to consider if
it really
adds anything or just looks a mess. Below a certain size gifs
and jpg
text becomes practically unreadable.

Resizing image in photoshop

Hello,
I'm new to photoshop and trying to resize an image to become 1080 x 1020 at 72 lpi. Original size is 2173 x 1634 at 300. (Asset is for viewing only)
First, I went into "Image Size" dialog box, checked "Resample Image" and unchecked "Constrain Proportions". By doing so, I was able to changed the pixel dimensions to 1080 x 1020 but distorted the image and when I changed the lpi to 72, the pixel reduced further down.
How do I go about resizing an image without distorting image and retain the desired specs: 1080 x 1020 at 72 lpi.
Thanks,
Suta

With the image open in Photoshop, it's dpi would affect:
1) Text size if you have Type set at Pixels or Points in preferences, (which is why it is not a bad idea to set it to Pixels so you'll have some idea of how big text will apear in your images).
2) Grid density (Ctrl/Command '). When I want to change the grid density, I generally open the Image size dialogue box; turn of resample, and change the DPI. But I find I don't need to do that so often since setting both Print and Screen dpi to 300dpi in the New Document preferences.
3) How big it will print. I once took in three full res images to be be made into canvas prints and gave the sho a size. When I collected them only one was at the size I'd asked for, and the other two were much smaller because he'd gone by the DPI and print size. I was not happy!
Other than the above three things, (and any other that I can't think of) pixels are pixels and dpi only affects how thickly or thinly they are spread throughout your image.

Help!Can't figure out how to copy and paste a drop shadow behind an image in photoshop

I use illustrator most of the time. I'm designing a brochure and I've always embedded images, but now I'm trying to it correctly by linking them instead. So I have an image in ps as a tiff. I created a drop shadow for the image in illustrator. I want to copy and paste it behind the image into the same file so both are one file linked to the brochure. Also the drop shadow pastes as too small, then i also can't get it positioned right etc. Please explain how to do this step by step. I've been trying for hours to figure it out. thanks!

    What happened is this: my client emailed me the image as a jpg. I downloaded it, then right clicked "open with" - photoshop. It opened in photoshop. Then I saved it as a tif. (maybe i didn't need to do this). Then still in psd i went to image size - and made the image 6x4 inches (the image is supposed to be printed 3x2 inches on the brochure) . Then I made it 300 dpi resolution and kept the resampling box checked. Then I went to layer styles; drop shadow; and used the drop shadow menu to get it the size and placement and opacity i desired .It's just a plain rectangular drop shadow which is a little offset behind the plain rectangular photo. I did check the box where the image would drop out the drop shadow (or whatever it said:). The drop shadow is on the same layer as the image. Then behind all of it is a larger rectangle of the grey and white boxes, which show thru thru the drop shadow in psd. I'm assuming this is simply the artboard. Then i named it and saved it into a "links" folder which i plan to include in the folder containing the illy brochure file.
    Since the psd image is 6x4 inches, will it reset to 3x2 when printed to match the placed image size? Or should I size the psd image exactly like the illy placed image? Is the drop shadow in this case a blend like you were describing earlier?
    Did i do anything wrong in the process which will make the brochure print incorrectly, or am i being too confusing for you to know ? ))
    I'm so nervous about how it all translates from one to the other. Thanks in advance!

Strange box on my images in Photoshop

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