Strange code at the end of the web address?

Someone can tell me this text after departure address?

Most likely you're using Addthis plugin for social media sharing. Take a look at this related thread here - http://forums.adobe.com/message/6032749.
Thanks,
Vinayak

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    Photo - .jpg (.bmp known problematic)
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    from Boise Jim
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    I use only - DVD-R
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    PART Three.
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    2. Disconnect any other external devices not absolutely needed.
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    From. Boise, Idaho
    I did everything I've seen suggested, but a friend (who used to be an Apple Genius) suggested that I do a safe reboot (by holding down the shift key until you see the spinning gear on gray background, then release, then restart when your start-up screen appears).
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    by dheb0422
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    Rich839
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    Yours Bengt W

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    Rida

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    Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)?Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate?Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term?Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)?Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property?It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs?Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can  1. Mortgage Credit Scores:  
    What are your fico MORTGAGE credit scores for each mortgage applicant?I don't really want to pay to get mortgage scores now because I'm not ready to get prequalified... still paying down credit cards, so to me it's useless to get the score until my credit situation is stable. Here are free scores from credit cards and whatnot:
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    Georgie_Boy wrote:
    Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)? You want to get as many of your ccs to zero as you can ...optimum scoring is one account carrying a balance of 3-9% of your CL, all others at zero ...the mortgage lenders will count each account with a balance as a monthly debt due equal to your minimum payment when calculating your dtirs ...those minimum payments quickly add up and can seriously impact how much you can get approved for.Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? 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If this is a new car loan, yes ...if its a used car loan, it depends on age and value because your current rate isn't outrageous for an older car loan ...generically, if you can refinance to a lower monthly payment at a reasonable cost, you should do so in order to lower your dtir ...but its a trade-off because the HP will probably cost you a few points on your scores.Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)? All of the govt guaranteed loan programs have recently moved to using the higher of your current payment or 1% of the total in your dtir calculations ...do the math and act accordingly. Be wary of any lender that is not using the higher figure when giving you preapproval numbers, uw will inevitably catch it and it could torpedo your loan after you've signed a contract and spent on prepaids and fees.Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property? She is either on the loan or not ...you can't have it both ways. At the time you apply, your LO will look at both of your incomes and tell you what will work best in your situation. 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I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs? This is very specific to the loan program ...conventional with 5% dp limits seller concessions to 3%, FHA is 6% regardless, USDA is technically unlimited ...be aware that every lender will have their own overlays which may affect those numbers. It is also affected greatly by your market conditions which at the moment vary greatly by your locale ...in a buyers market, you can expect seller concessions ...in a sellers market, probably not. USDA offers the best govt guarantee program for closing costs since they will allow you to include closing costs in the loan up to the appraised value. New Jersey's web site is screwed up (at least for me) and I can't nail down exactly what dp/closing cost assistance programs are available to you but it looks very dependent on the specific location you are buying in.Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? DO NOT get "pre-qualified" ...get "pre-approved" ...a pre-qual is virtually meaningless ...a pre-approval means they've actually looked at your documentation and, short of verification, are reasonably sure they can get you to closing ...its a huge difference ...as far as when? ...yesterday would have been great ...rates are rising ...its almost certainly going to get worse ...so bite the bullet ...find a decent realtor in your target area, ask them to recommend lenders they have worked with that can actually close their loans ...talk to those lenders ...get a pre-app ...go shopping ...if your credit scores/dtir improve significantly because of cc paydowns, ask your lender to rescore you ...mortgage pulls within 30-60 days all count as one HP. Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can  1. Mortgage Credit Scores: Its essential to your question of "when" that you know your actual mortgage scores ...the Discover scores are actual Fico cc scores, the others are FAKOs afaik ...but the Fico cc and mortgage scoring models differ in several important ways and vary easily by +/- 50 points depending on what is in your CRA files ...mine actually track fairly closely but others have seen very negative differences ...its worth the $40 imnsho to know where you actually stand ...anything you do to improve them in the next month will only help but is not sufficient reason to delay ...again imnsho.  2. Credit Negatives:  Have you tried to have the late removed from the CR? Depending on the SL source, some programs have been very responsive to GW requests after a good payment record has been reestablished ...ymmv but you lose nothing by trying.  5. 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    Attachments:
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    Report Upside down.txt ‏15 KB

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