Strange led behavior and more in 5800

After some time of normal behavior, green and red leds stay "on" even in locked mode. After some time the phone shuts down; battery apparently isn't low at the moment of shutdown, but I have to recharge in order to turn it on. The 5800 is 14 months old and firmware is 50.0.05, I can't upgrade because 51.0.0.6 isn't available for my code.
Some suggestions?
Thanks
Solved!
Go to Solution.

@ phonehacker, that is no excuse for your laziness, a reset should always be a last resort, not a quick fix. We have too many users here already that spam lazy answers, we don't need a "guru" doing it too.
@giiovalazz - This is certainly odd behaviour. If you try to use the phone in a completely dark rook do the lights behave as normal? Are you 100% certain that your protector isn't covering the proximity sensor?
A less aggressive reset method that you could try is dialling *#7780# (like a phone number). This will reset your settings (and can fix some odd behaviour) without removing your data or apps. It's always wise to backup just in case though. Be sure to test the phone before restoring any backups.

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    When I first started experimenting, access to the "iTunes U Drop Box Test" course looked like this:
    --- Credentials (System) ---
    Edit: Administrator@urn:mace:itunesu.com:sites:lafayette.edu
    Download: Authenticated@urn:mace:itunesu.com:sites:lafayette.edu
    Download: Unauthenticated@urn:mace:itunesu.com:sites:lafayette.edu
    Download: All@urn:mace:itunesu.com:sites:lafayette.edu
    --- Credentials ----
    Download: College@urn:mace:lafayette.edu
    Download: Instructor@urn:mace:lafayette.edu
    Download: Instructor@urn:mace:lafayette.edu:classes:${IDENTIFIER}
    Download: Student@urn:mace:lafayette.edu
    Download: Student@urn:mace:lafayette.edu:classes:${IDENTIFIER}
    For the "Featured" Submissions tab, I gave the non-system credentials the "download" right, and for the "Dropbox" tab I gave the non-system credentials the "dropbox" right.
    My understanding of this setup is that everyone should have had the ability to view the course and the contents of the "Featured Submissions" tab and that those in the College/Instructor/Student roles would be able to upload files via the "Dropbox" tab ... but not see the contents of said tab after the files were uploaded (aside from any files they uploaded themselves).
    This is not the behavior we saw however. While the College/Instructor/Student roles could upload files to the dropbox, everyone (including the unauthenticated public) was able to see all of the contents of the dropbox.
    The only way I could get this to work as advertised was to change all of the system credentials save the "Administrator" to "No Access":
    --- Credentials (System) ---
    Edit: Administrator@urn:mace:itunesu.com:sites:lafayette.edu
    No Access: Authenticated@urn:mace:itunesu.com:sites:lafayette.edu
    No Access: Unauthenticated@urn:mace:itunesu.com:sites:lafayette.edu
    No Access: All@urn:mace:itunesu.com:sites:lafayette.edu
    Once I did this, everything worked as advertised: College/Instructor/Student roles could upload tracks, and the "Dropbox" tab would only display tracks they uploaded.
    So my question is ... is this the correct behavior for the drop box? It looks like when the system credentials are in play, they're simply overriding whatever the normal "view" rule is for the drop box, which doesn't seem right.

    Your current configuration where things work as you wanted does seem correct to me. You are not using any System Credentials to accomplish the functionality and that's fine.
    Here's some more info to clarify how / why this is working for you and why you had to set "No Access" for the System Credentials:
    The System Credential "Authenticated@..." is going to get assigned to any user that goes through your transfer script. Even if you transfer script assigns no credentials to a user, upon entering iTunes U they will have at least 1 - the "Authenticated@..." credential. Therefore, unless you block access using "No Access", any user that passes through your transfer script is going to be able to access the area in question.
    When you change values for "Unauthenticated@..." or "All@..." you are defining what someone that DOES NOT pass through your transfer script can do. You want both of those to be "No Access" at the top level of your site if you do not want unauthenticated visitors.
    The distinction between "Unauthenticated" and "All" is that "All" applies to all users whether they pass through the transfer script or not.
    Here's another way to remember things:
    User passes through your transfer script, iTunes U automatically assigns:
    Authenticated@....
    All@....
    User does not pass through your transfer script and instead access your iTunes U site through derivable URL*, they get assigned:
    Unauthenticated@....
    All@....
    *The derivable URL for a site is: http://deimos.apple.com/WebObjects/Core.woa/Browse/site-domain-name
      Mac OS X (10.4.6)  

  • I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

    THE SHORTER STORY
    My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
    I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
    In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
    What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
    Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
    THE FULL STORY
    I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
    (1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
    (2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
    (3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
    (4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
    (5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
    (6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
    I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
    The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
    I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
    I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
    My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
    However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
    Modem
    Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
    Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
    Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
    Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
    ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
    Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
    Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
    Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
    WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
    Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
    MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
    MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
    Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
    iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
    iPad (1st generation)
    Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

    Thanks Bob Timmons.
    In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
    I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
    Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
    Create a wireless network
    Extend a wireless network
    Off
    Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
    Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
    DHCP and Nat
    DHCP Only
    Off (Bridge Mode)
    Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
    How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
    Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
    Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
    I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
    Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
    I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
    Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
    Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
    So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

  • Can anyone explain this behavior and tell me how to fix it?

    Using NetBeans 6.5 on Windows, Glassfish v2.1
    I have a JSF application with a page that has a tab set.
    On one of the tabs I have a panel with company information.
    One of the components on the page is an InputText field with the value bound to a session bean variable.
    The tab also has an Add button.
    Here is what the JSP looks like for the input text and button components
       <h:inputText binding="#{MainPage.companyNameTF}" id="companyNameTF" readonly="#{SessionBean1.readOnlyFlag}"
       <h:commandButton action="#{MainPage.mainAddBtn_action}" disabled="#{SessionBean1.disableEdit}" id="mainAddBtn"
            style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: bold; left: 425px; top: 380px; position: absolute; width: 75px" value="Add"/>
         This is all plain vanilla stuff and I would expect that when the Add button is pushed, the session bean property would be filled with
    the value entered in the input text field.
    In the java code for the page, I have a method to process the Add button push.
    Originally, it just called a method in the session bean to check that a value was entered in the input text field by checking the bound
    session bean property.
    For some reason, that was not getting filled and I was getting either a null or empty string rather than the value in the text field.
    I added some checking in the method that processes the Add button push so I could check the values in the debugger.
    Here is a sample of that code:
        public String mainAddBtn_action() {
            String s = sb1.getCompanyName();
            s = (String)this.companyNameTF.getValue();
            s = (String)this.companyNameTF.getSubmittedValue();I check this in the debugger and NONE of the variants that I have listed have the value that was entered into the text field.
    The submittedValue is null and the others are empty strings (that is what they were initalized to).
    This is all pertty straight forward stuff and I am at a loss to explain what is happening.
    Can anyone expain this behavior, and, most important, how can I force the values to be present when the Add button is pushed.
    I have never experienced this problem before, and have no clue what is causing it.
    Thanks.

    Basically, the component bindings are just being used in plain vanilla get/set modes.
    I set them to "" when I do a clear for the fields and they are set to a value via the text field.
    No other action other than to read the values via get to insert them into the database.
    And, I always use the get/set methods rather than just setting the value directly.
    This is what is so strange about this behavior - I have created dozens of database add/update/delete pages using this same model and have not had a problem with them - even in a tab context.
    Not a clue why this one is different.
    I did notice that I had an error on the page (in IE7, you get a small triangle warning sign when something is not right).
    I figured that might be the problem - maybe buggering up the rendering process.
    I tracked that down and do not get that anymore (it had to do with the PDF display I was trying to get working a while back), but that did not resolve the problem.
    I don't think there are any tab conflicts - none of the components are shared between tabs, but I will see what happens when I move a couple of the components out of the tab context.
    I noticed that it seems to skip a cycle. Here is what I can do.
    1) Fill in text fields and add a record - works fine the first time.
    2) Clear the text fields
    3) Enter new data in the text fields and push Add
    4) I get an error saying fields are blank from my data check process.
    5) Enter new data and push Add - the record is added with the new data.
    My work around is to not enter data in step 3 and just accept the error message in step 4, then go ahead and enter the real data in step 5.
    Very ugly, but it works every time.

  • Many apps crashing after iOS 5 update and more. Think Apple will give me a trade-in?

    I just typed about a thousand words and lost them. I noticed that my owned hardware list hadn't been updated in years and tapped on it.  The back button returned me here and all that was left was the title of the post and the tags. NOTE: SPELL CHECKER DOES NOT WORK IN SAFARI SO THERE WILL BE TYPOS.
    I don't have the strength to type them again. Basically my 64 Gb iPad 1 is unusable in many ways after the update. I have lost too much work and play because of it.  It never gave me any trouble before and if I had the scratch, I would be typing away on an Android tablet right now. Long time user since iPod Touch G1 and have owned too many to list.
    Big one, you can no longer charge with older or 3rd party cables.
    WiFi dropped completely in further corner of the house until I turned on the dynamic indicator for the flaky location system that shows that I'm in every town around me, and some not around me, but not my town.
    Filling in dialogs in Safari is torture, cursor often disappears. Tap around to find it and Safari crashes.
    Key lag at times is so bad it gets a word behind. Scrolling in any app is jittery and jerky at the same time.
    There are so many more. I typedmup 3x more but lost all of it. This thing is so flaky I have been using my HTC EVO more and more and liking it more and more. If it had a min 7" screen there would be no contest.
    I don't want to give up my iPad, but it is always annoying me with its bad behavior, what good is it to me any longer?
    Do you think it is too old to take to the Apple Store and ask for a trade-in? I once toasted a $500 Touch with a firewire sync cable and Apple gave me another, no questions asked. Do you think?
    Just look at all the typos! I am a technical writer and it is embarrassing. Stinky keyslab+dead spell checker makes me look illiterate. Yes, the spell checker is turned on. I have spent many hours in the Settings applet in the last few weeks.

    I have iPhone 4 just updated to IOS 6 as well. App Store App updates are freezing on WIFI. I've twice had to delete the app and re-install. Installs of apps are also failing, causing the app to be unusable. At that point because it is a 'new' install the app can't be deleted. So the app can;t be deleted or installed.
    IOS 6 on iPhone 4 also seems a bit laggy.

  • Strange icon behavior

    Since purchasing an iMac with Snow Leopard pre-installed, I've experienced a series of strange ‘icon bugs’, and the problem has persisted through to the latest 10.6.4 update.
    Bug #1: Occasionally icons on the desktop will become pixelated and blocky, resembling MacOS 9 sized icons that have been over-magnified. If I restart the Mac or log out and back in again the problem will go away, at least until the next random occurrence. The problem seems to particularly affect icons for inserted CDs and DVDs, but I’ve also seen it occur with application and file icons.
    Bug #2: Sometimes icons will disappear completely by becoming transparent. This has affected all kinds of file types, but particularly files that have been freshly downloaded to the desktop from Safari. I can resolve the problem by dragging the affected file into a freshly created folder and then back onto the desktop, at which point the icon reappears.
    Bug #3: About 50% of the time I insert a USB thumb drive or mount a DMG disk image, the icon displayed on the desktop will be for a hard drive (i.e. the one used for the internal hard drive) and not the white icon normally used for mounted images.
    These bugs only occur on the desktop. They never occur in other folders or in list view. I cannot isolate the cause to any particular task or process. Sometimes they happen immediately after a re-boot.

    Create a new User go to System Preferences > Accounts > "+" (make it an admin acct) and test the apps in this new account, if they work the problem is isolated to your User and not systemwide.
    If the issue is limited to your user account try going to Users/yourname/Library/Preferences and move com.apple.desktop.plist and com.apple.desktopservices.plist to the trash. Restart and test. You may have to reset some Desktop settings.
    If that didn't work, start up in Safe Mode (It will take more time to startup in Safe Mode because it runs a directory check.)
    If your Desktop icons function correctly that way, go to System Preferences >> Accounts >> Login Items, and remove them. Boot normally and test. If not go to/Users/yourname/Library/Contextual Menu Items and move whatever is there to the desktop. Then do the same with /Library/Contextual Menu Items. Lastly, try moving/Users/yourname/Library/Fonts to your desktop and restarting.
    Log out/in or restart, if that sorts it start putting items back one at a time until you find the culprit.
    If the issue is systemwide then, you may be able to repair this with the The 10.6.4 Combo Update This is a fuller install, as opposed to an incremental "delta" update so it should overwrite any files that are damaged or missing. It does not matter if you have applied it before.
    Remember to Verify Disk before update and repair permissions after update from /Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility.
    -mj

  • [SOLVED] Losing more and more space everyday

    Hello,
    During around 2 weeks I have a really strange problem: I'm loosing more and more free space everyday, and I can't figure what cause that.
    The system is installed on a 12GB ext4 partition. My home is on it but as I move data to another partition something else tooks the free space; I used to have 4GB of data inside home, including all hidden folders, now it's only 1.5GB and the next big folder is the "windows" folder of wine.
    What should I use to monitor if a file is increasing or all write operations of my applications?
    Thanks.
    Edit: my cache folder is empty and I removed the .thumbnails folder.
    Last edited by Dreamkey (2012-06-29 11:04:49)

    Yes I had a problem with my logs : everything.log, kernel.log and messages.log got spammed by this 4 lines every second
    Jun 29 03:52:01 anarky-laptop kernel: [18650.554384] atkbd serio0: Unknown key pressed (translated set 2, code 0x8d on isa0060/serio0).
    Jun 29 03:52:01 anarky-laptop kernel: [18650.554396] atkbd serio0: Use 'setkeycodes e00d <keycode>' to make it known.
    Jun 29 03:52:01 anarky-laptop kernel: [18650.566358] atkbd serio0: Unknown key released (translated set 2, code 0x8d on isa0060/serio0).
    Jun 29 03:52:01 anarky-laptop kernel: [18650.566370] atkbd serio0: Use 'setkeycodes e00d <keycode>' to make it known.
    Which is now solved by doing some strange manipulations (this was not the first time I had to do it, but I had forgotten it).
    @DSpider: I changed my logrotate.conf like in your post, so without doing anything else I should recover free space in 2 weeks?

  • 1.0.3 status LED behavior changed

    1. When ejected either in iTunes or Finder, status LED IMMEDIATELY switches to green.
    2. Unchecking "enable disk use" (and clicking Apply) does NOT affect blinking orange LED either in iTunes or out of it. Thus there's no REAL indicator of charge status except immediate green on ejecting. This basically is the same as the "green means 30%-100% charged"... which is inadequate for estimating number of hours available of playback.
    I've gone back to 1.0.2 ... (luckily Reset Utility still has 1.02...) which still works like it used to.
    I've sent the above as feedback to the "iPod shuffle Feedback Team".

    Uhh, I did not know such a utility existed. I Googled and donwloaded it. It now restored my iPod back to 1.0.2. and LED behavior is back to normal. Thanks...
    Apple does not really publicize this piece of software, does it? (BTW, that utility has a really cool icon on Mac.) Same story for "feedback", I tried very hard looking for a bug report mechanism on iPod support page. I had to Google "Apple iPod Feedback". Again, thanks to you...

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