Strategy for using device on Mac & Windows?

I just started a new job and am back in the wonderful world of Windows. I still use macs [PowerPC of various types] at home and will try to get a MacBook at work after I have been there a little while.
Meanwhile, however, I am stuck with deciding how to go forward with syncing:
I can get all my contacts syncing via Plaxo.
That leaves me with my appointments:
I have not currently worked-out how to get my a mac through the corporate VPN, so I can't try any of the solutions that claim to be able to sync with an Exchange Server.
I tried the option of using my Sony Ericsson K750i as an intermediary, but that screwed things up because it only supports a single calendar. Otherwise it worked quite well. (I guess I could merge my personal and work activities into one calendar - after all they are one and the same on the phone - but that seems a last resort especially as I don't want to load-up all my personal appointments to Exchange.)
Any ideas would be gratefully received!

I have just discovered that I can attach my iTouch ( which is used on a Mac ) to both a Mac & Windows without having to 're-format' . One this is great as I was under the impression that you could only use an iPod on only one or the other 'but' not both with-out re-formatting.
All new(er) iPods come Windows formatted straight out of the box, and as a Mac can read a Windows formatted iPod that's why you can use it on both platforms without the need to reformat. So maybe yours is still Windows formatted? Some folks who use Macs leave them like that.
Older iPods (I think) were Mac formatted out of the box and so wouldn't work natively on Windows because Mac formatted iPods cannot be read by Windows without the need to use 3rd party software, so the answer is if you want to use it on both platforms without using additional software, then leave it Windows formatted.
Various iTunes/iPod updates along the way have nothing to do with this.
Hope this sheds some light on your question.

Similar Messages

What is the best malwear detection and protection for use on a Mac?

What is the best malwear detection and protection for use on a Mac?

Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" software. The answer usually given on ASC is "no." The answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to log in to it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has so far failed to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. These failures don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is foremost a problem of human behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the left side of the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" (AV) or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It's as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

I have an external hard drive that was formatted by a PC and has files and directories etc. I want to format it and use it on my IMAC for backup but I can't seem to write to it nor can I delete current content. How do I initialize it for use with the MAC?

I have an external hard drive that was formatted by a PC and has files and directories copied to it etc. I want to use it on my IMAC for backup. I see it on my my IMAC . I can open files etc. But I can't seem to write to it nor can I delete current content. I don't care if I lose current content. How do I initialize it for use with the MAC?

You can't write to it because it's formatted as NTFS which OS X will read but not write to. If you want to continue using the drive with both a PC and OS X you will need to download and install NTFS-3G so you can then write to it from your Mac. You can get NTFS-3G at:
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/24481/ntfs-3g
If you want to use the drive exclusively with your Mac then move the data off it and reformat it in Disk Utility (Applications - Utilities - Disk Utilities) as Mac OS Extended (Journaled.)

Looking to create editable PDF forms with drop downs and text boxes for use on a Mac computer and iPad. Which product do I need to purchase? Do not need anything fancy

Looking to create editable PDF forms with drop downs and text boxes for use on a Mac computer and iPad. Which product do I need to purchase? Do not need anything fancy

Basically you would need Acrobat. However, it is now also possible to create basic form fields using just the free Reader. In fact, I've been working on a tool that allows you to do it, so if you're interested in it please contact me privately.

Can I DL IE8 for use on my Mac - Have sites that I have to sign into

Can I Down Load IE8 for use on my Mac - I have sites that I have to sign into and neither Firefox nor Safari will allow sign in or even open site.
Thanks
GGB

All other browsers have some means for changing the user agent string. This MAY be enough if the site is only checking for a specific browser for one of a host of reasons. If the site uses some kind of IE specific code, then a simple user agent string change won't help, and you're pretty much stuck.

Best way to normalise MP3s, for use in iTunes, iPod, Window PCs & mobiles

Ok, nearly got all my music/MP3s in order with Album art, lyrics, spelling etc etc in order.
My last task for the ultimate library is to normalise them, ie make them all the same volume level so as not to keep adjusting the volume level when listening on iPods, iMacs, mobiles etc.
I have heard of the sound check in iTunes and iPod, but this wont work if I put some of the MP3s onto my Mobile, or for my other computer a Windows XP machine.
I have also heard of MacMP3Gain for Mac, MP3Gain for Windows. Do these work? they seem to be an old program.
What does everyone else do? as I say its annoying prob, I want all my music at the same volume level so you can press play on shuffle and not have to keep adjusting
please help
cheers
LOC

The help file for MP3 Trimmer under Basic Operation states...
MP3 Trimmer help file states:
To the left of the audio fade controls you'll find a checkbox to enable gain adjustments. If this button is disabled ('grayed out') Gain Adjust is not possible*. By clicking this button you enable the buttons to control the amount of Gain Adjust. Adjustments are set in relative percentage values.
The Gain Adjust operation actually adjust the output gain of each frame, whichh is nothing like the 'adjust gain for this song' parameters in many audio playback devices/applications (they may only work for that specific device/application). The gain adjust performed by MP3 Trimmer is written to each and every frame of the song, which will allow it to work on all playback devices (hardware / software). It may seem pretty permanent, but you can always change the gain in opposite direction with no quality-loss (we're dealing with it binary here).
A word of advice: It's easy to distort the audio if too much gain is applied. Use the audition feature to listen to the effect. In other words - use your ears....
Regards,
Patrick

Using disk image to put data into a "stick" for use by PC & Mac

I am trying to find a quick way to transfer a master file (almost 1gb) onto a series of "sticks" for circulation to colleagues.
I thought that if I made a disk image that would be OK. It works for Macs but PCs say they cannot find a progamme to open the stick. They recognise it as a FAT disk.
PLEASE help me save hours of time.
Colin

I'm guessing the reason you want to 'bundle' up the files is to avoid the slower copy speed of lots of small files? If that or the desire to compress the data is you reason for using a disk image, zip them instead. Windows and most Macs will be able to open the zip file without additional software and any Macs that are running Jaguar or older OS versions will almost certainly have Stuffit Expander which can also decompress zip files.

Headphone amp for use with i-mac

Hi,
Im looking for a headphone amplifier for use with my i-mac and logic 9, im using a pair of sennheiser HD 650's, can anyone recommend one?
Thanx...

You can't write to it because it's formatted as NTFS which OS X will read but not write to. If you want to continue using the drive with both a PC and OS X you will need to download and install NTFS-3G so you can then write to it from your Mac. You can get NTFS-3G at:
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/24481/ntfs-3g
If you want to use the drive exclusively with your Mac then move the data off it and reformat it in Disk Utility (Applications - Utilities - Disk Utilities) as Mac OS Extended (Journaled.)

Best wireless router (apple or non-apple) for use with multiple Macs

What is the best wireless router, from any manufacturer, for use with 3-5 Macs? (in a reasonable price range... sub $150)
least problems
most reliable
strongest signal/best range
fewest drops
fewest reboots

The Apple Routers "just work".
I also have a linksys. It takes a good bit of knowledge and aggravation getting it set up, but once working it does fine.
If you plan to use your router to share a printer, hook to your stereo, etc. definitely stick with Apple. It will save you much grief.

What is the best DVD burner to buy for use with my Mac?

I have a MacMini with a DVD player/CD burner. I would like to buy an external DVD burner for use with the MacMini and my Tiger OS. Could I get some thoughts on purchasing a good external burner and using the best burning program with it. Thanks

Paul,
LaCie d2 DVD±RW with LightScribe http://www.lacie.com/products/product.htm?pid=10113
$179.99 includes full version Toast 7
$129.99 includes Toast 6 Lite
The $129.99 unit that comes with Toast 6 Lite can be found on the web for a lot less. Later, if you outgrow Toast 6 you can upgrade to Toast 8 (which is the latest version).
External Multi-Format DVD RecorderDRX-830UL/T $129.00
http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/%3Cwbr%20target=blank%3EINTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start ?ProductSKU=DRX830UL%2fT&Dept=computers&CategoryName=cpu_Sony_PCAccessories_CD%2 fDVDBurnDVDBurners
My experience with Lacie and Sony burners has always been positve and Toast is good to have around, it's always complimented iDVD well (in addition to having a host of other useful features).
Note:
I'm not familiar with any of Toast 6 lite's features, but I do know you can burn DVD's with it. It adds another means of authoring a DVD outside of iDVD.

I install Windows XP on 24" iMac through BootCamp, I can get mail but no internet?? I use Hughes Satellite connection for all (4 total) desk tops computers, then use wireless APPLE WI-FI for portable devices ie, Mac Book, iPod Touch, iPad.

I installed WindowsXP, home on 24" Mac through Boot Camps, (I'm on OX10.6) everything works just fine except for getting connection on Internet Explorer, I can receive mail O.K. not sent through Outlook express, nowhere do I see the word Ethernet (which is connection I use on Mac) can anyone help?

if it can receive emails then likely dns is the issue
make sure the windows osx driver you make make in bootcamp in the osx end
and make sure the windows nic is set to use hdcp and that the router you connect to support hdcp

Can I swap out my software to reinstall my CS2 for use with a Mac instead of Windows?

After years of no problems, my CS2 ceased to work. I tried deinstalling it and using the Adobe clean up kit and reinstalling it to no avail. Frankly, I am not smart enough to follow all of those troubleshooting steps. But since I purchased the license to use CS2 and used the Windows software to install it on my computer, I was wondering now that I have deinstalled it and can't get it back on, can I install it on my Mac instead? Can I get the software to do that? thanks.

Unfortunately CS2 is also too old to upgrade to CS6 andd your PPC Mac won't run the current Adobe software which only runs on newer Intel-based Macs.
Only CS5 users can upgrade to CS6.
There is also a temporary upgrade window for CS3 and CS4 users which closes on 31 Dec 2012.
So if you do eventually upgrade your Mac, you'll have to purchase a full version of CS6 (or whatever the current version may be).
What exactly is happening when you try to run CS2? Hard to guess from the description given so far.

Best strategy for using external drive to speed up painfully slow mac mini

I have Intel core duo, and LaCie external drive. Many programmes are almost unusably slow. Like Adobe Photoshop, Garageband, Logic Express, SecondLife etc... (would have been nice if apple had told me the 'improved spec' would mean so many programmes would no longer work!)
I am looking for the best way to utilise the external drive. I have now set up to boot from the LaCie, but it is no better. Id like to know whats best to do with the two drives. Would one be best kept as clear as possible? And should that be the bootup drive? Originally, the idea was to increase storage and backup. Now it is anything at all, that will make this computer faster. My old G4 PowerMac is actually faster and more reliable!
powerMac G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)
powerMac G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)
powerMac G4 Mac OS X (10.4.9)
powerMac G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)
powerMac G4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)
powerMac G4 Mac OS X (10.4.9)

There is no way to improve on the graphics card in your mini - it's built into the logic board and can't be bypassed. However, while that may be a disappointment, it has to be said that by and large the graphics system in the mini is actually very capable, and is probably not the cause of the problem.
What IS the primary issue I suspect is the 512Mb RAM, which on a Core Solo running applications such as Photoshop is so woefully inadequate that it would be a surprise if your old G4 wasn't somewhat faster!
The problem is that Photoshop (the version you have) is not Intel-native, so while it runs, it requires Rosetta. Thus you have a RAM-hungry operating system, a RAM hungry application and a RAM-hungry translation package, all running at the same time. To add to that, since the software is not Intel-native, it has to be translated on-the-fly so considerable CPU time is needed to devote to that process in addition to all the other things the system needs to do in order to run.
Thus your external drive would not help much when used as a boot drive because even though it is likely to be somewhat faster than the internal, the limited RAM of the system will be forcing so many 'paging' actions (writing and reading memory blocks to the hard drive) that any speed gains will be rather heavily masked.
Most of the performance problems you experience can be resolved by upgrading RAM to 2Gb, simply because that will allow MacOS, Rosetta and your software a lot more room to breathe and significantly reduce the paging activity of the system such that then booting from the external will show notable improvements in responsiveness.
Alternatively, you may find that there are Intel-native alternatives to your software which may be available at reasonable cost and provide the features you need. Good examples are such things as GraphicConverter, which is shareware and does much of what Photoshop can do, and NeoOffice, which is open source and free, which is a good alternative to MS Office. These would run without Rosetta and provide you with much improved performance as a consequence.

Exporting for use on a Mac

Newbie. Was looking for export/share to .mov. Couldn't find it. My movies start with a AVCHD type .MTS file extension and I want my Mac friend to be able to view it...? The Help file says it exports to .mov but I can't figure it out.

Try Share/Computer/MOV (Quicktime).
This will output a DV-MOV, which will be a standard def editable video file. There are different outputs for creating a hi-def file. (MOVs are not your only options for Mac-compatible files.)
But if you just want your friend to be able view the file, use the Share/Mobile Phones and Devices/iPad. This will create a nice, clean MP4 that should play and look great on his Mac.

Best iTunes strategy for a family with multiple Windows accounts

On our previous Windows 7 PC, I set up separate Windows accounts for each of our family members. Since iTunes can't be run concurrently on more than one Windows account, I also set up another Windows account named "iTunes," the sole purpose of which is to have iTunes running in a way that everyone can access it without having to log into each others' accounts. When you want to use iTunes, you log into the "iTunes" Windows account; when you want to do something else on the computer, you log into your personal Windows account.
Two questions: (1) Is there a better way to do this? and (2) Am I right that iTunes still can't be run concurrently on more than one Windows account?
Thanks.

This is a user to user support forum. Your fellow users can offer solutions or workarounds based on their experience with the application. If you think it should work differently drop a line to iTunes Feedback.
For reasons unknown Apple haven't chosen to allow iTunes to be suspended in one profile and active in another. My recollection is that this applies even if each profile has a different library, although it is some time since I've committed a personal test.
I'm not sure why my suggestion make less sense that your current approach?. As I understand it currently everybody is either signed into their own account when they can do something other than work with iTunes, or they sign into the special iTunes account where they can't access any of their other stuff. You don't have to disable fast user switching. Follow exactly the same steps, but make sure everyone closes iTunes before turning the computer over to another user. Disabling fast user switching helps to enforce that action.
tt2

Strategy for using device on Mac & Windows?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for