Stuck on grey screen trying to install 10.5

Hi,
A friend of mine has been given an eMac 1ghz running 10.4. She connects to the internet by a wireless 3G dongle but the installation software requires a more recent version of java than is installed on the eMac and needs to download an update but is not able to use the internet so she's in a catch 22 situation.
I decided the best option would be to install 10.5 as the eMac appears to have the correct spec (just!) but have so far been unable to. I have tried to install from both a full retail dvd and a copy on a FireWire drive. On both occasions the disc mounts on the desktop but once the emac is restarted to begin installation the discs spin and I get to the grey apple screen with the spinning timer but the it just gets stuck. It is exactly the same for both the dvd and the FireWire drive.
There is nothing plugged in except the keyboard and mouse. I wondered if it could be a firmware problem but again I cannot check that as it can't get on-line. I have replaced the pram battery and reset it. I wondered if it could be a hard drive problem and will take my old 10.3 discs round next time to see whether I can boot from that disc and check the hard drive.
Does anyone have any ideas? I can always download stuff at my house and take it to hers on a disc as long as I know what to download.
Any help is gratefully received.

Is the Leopard 10.5 DVD a retail full-install version, or one that shipped
with a different Macintosh computer? It has to be a retail version to work.
Some eMac models with lesser than ideal graphic processors are not
best suited to run Leopard; but some users have made it go anyway.
The usual progression of Java updates, continue from whatever version
the OS X has in it currently and builds with additional downloads. So, if
you can get the Standalone downloads in the correct order as needed
from Apple Support Downloads (right now I don't have a precise list)
for the OS X version you are contemplating the need, it could work.
You should stay at Tiger 10.4 (.11) if the computer had been working
OK, and make sure the hardware is in good condition and has as
much RAM installed as the computer supports; then be certain the
Leopard install DVD is proper and did not come from a different Mac.
Leopard requires 512MB of RAM to 'bare-bones' work; and plenty of
free space available for the system and apps to use, since this will
rely on Virtual Memory (space on hard drive used automatically by
the OS X as virtual RAM along with all the chip RAM you can supply)
in order for an OS X system to work fairly well. At least 1GB RAM, too.
{There probably are other aspects of the question and ways of interpreting
them; and I am being interrupted here at the precise times I need to think
about the question I'm writing to... but I can't get the annoyance to stop.}
So hopefully you can check and test the computer before upgrading the OS
and have the correct Leopard 10.5 disc if you go that way; and enough RAM
plus a large enough hard disk drive with alot of empty space available.
Which model eMac is the one in question? 700/800/1.0/1.25/1.42?
PS: *A list of progressive Java updates* in Mac OS X 10.4 (.11) looks like this:
The list in my 10.4.11 system in use now, looks like this:
J2SE50Release4.pkg
J2SE50Release3.pkg
JavaForMacOSX10.4Release9.pkg
JavaForMacOSX10.4Release8.pkg
JavaForMacOSX10.4Release7.pkg
JavaForMacOSX10.4Release6.pkg
JavaForMacOSX10.4Release5.pkg
Java131and142Release2.pkg
Java.pkg
(And the numbers may reflect the date of installation
since their order is not totally numerical. Among the
updates, there may be some related to the Security
Updates. Be sure to install the Last security update
and it should include many of the older secure items.)
• Apple Support Downloads - Mac OS Components:
http://support.apple.com/downloads/#macoscomponents
Apple Support can also be searched.
+{ edited to add this last pile of words }+
Good luck & happy computing!

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    c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
    Step 2
    Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
    If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
    Step 3
    Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled on some models, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
    Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
    The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
    When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 5.
    If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
    If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
    Step 4
    Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
    Step 5
    Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
    This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
    Step 6
    Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
    Step 7
    Repeat Step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
    Step 8
    This step applies only to older Macs (not current models) that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery. Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a gray screen at boot. Typically the boot failure will be preceded by loss of the startup disk and system clock settings. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
    Step 9
    If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested. If you can't get to an Apple Store, go to another authorized service provider.

  • 10.6 won't boot; stuck on grey screen

    I know this is covered here to some degree, at least, but I haven't been able to find a complete solution/answer, so here goes:
    (Please, redirect me to the right source of information, if you know where to look, but not before reading through my post.  Thanks!  Oh, and I'm no computer expert, so, please, bear with me.)
    First of all, my equipment:  17" iMac (serial #: w86262cru2n, emc #: 2104), running (ran?) 10.6 (w/updates)
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    Here are some things I've tried (nothing has worked so far; "no success" = stuck on grey screen).  These steps are also laid out here.
    - Tried normal startup (no success)
    - Tried Safe Boot (no success)
    - Tried booting without connected peripherals (no success)
    - Tried alternate outlet (power source) (no success)
    - Tried resetting PRAM & NVRAM (no success)
    - Tried boot from 10.6 Install Disk (no success)
    - Tried replacing original RAM (no success)
    - Tried mounting internal drive as Target Disk on my 10.5 MacBook (mounts fine; used 10.6 install disk to verify, says disk is "ok")
    - Tried booting to MacBook via Target Disk (i.e. iMac is external drive connected by FireWire) (no success)
    - Tried booting from cloned copy of 10.6 disk on an external USB drive (yes, this can be done; I've done it before).  This drive was verified "ok" in the same way the internal disk was (see above). (no success)
    My next step appears to be to erase the original internal HD and reinstall 10.6.  This is where my my ignorance begins to rear it's head.  Since I can seem to boot from the iMac, can I do this through my MacBook, viz. mount the original, internal, 10.6 disk on my MacBook and erase it and install 10.6 from there (e.g. through Disk Utility on the 10.5 MacBook)?
    Assuming this is possible, can someone step me through the process?
    Assuming this last step isn't possible, does this all point to a faulty logic board (sounds like a 'worst case' to me)?
    Any ideas?  Suggestions?
    Many, many thanks, BTW, to all who have posted here and whose help I've availed myself of anonymously many times.  And thanks in advance to anyone with helpful ideas.

    Try a SMC reset and follow the steps again in the support doc for grey screen
    https://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964
    https://support.apple.com/kb/TS2570
    Your 10.6 install disk seems unreadable if it won't "hold c or option" boot.
    Clean the bottom with a alcohol and a very soft cloth and lightly polish until there is no streaks.
    Don't touch the bottom or place the disk onto something that will mar the bottom.
    If the disk still fails to work, get a replacement, as your going to need it. Get a jeweled plastic case for it.
    To make copies of your Snow Leopard install disk, follow these directions.
    http://www.walterjessen.com/make-a-bootable-backup-snow-leopard-install-disc/
    Once you can hold c and boot off a working 10.6 install disk, simply reinstall OS X without using Disk Utility to Erase and Format the drive, this will replace the OS X installed (and bundled programs) with the disk versions, then reboot and immediately use Software Update to get current.
    Your user files, third party programs will remain untouched, except for ones installed in OS X/root system files, those will have to be reinstalled with updated copies.
    All else fails:
    Grab a copy of your recent user file folders via FireWire target disk mode first or from a hold option bootable clone on a external drive
    If you have to completely erase and reformat the drive, reinstall 10.6, there are some things you need to know.
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    So to get that you need to select the drive makers name in Disk Utility, erase and install with the 10.5 disks first (warning, wipe entire drive)
    2: Name the boot drive the same name as before in Disk Utility when formatting.
    3: When you go through inital "Welcome to Mac" setup, use the same username as before, (different password)
    4: Once in OS X 10.5 stick a working 10.6 installer disk in and upgrade. Once rebooted, immediately Software Update to current version.
    5: Install programs from fresh sources next and update.
    6: Finally, return the backup copies of your user file folders (Music, Documents, Pictures, etc., not Library) to their respective folders on the new configuration. Because you used the same hard drive and user name as before you should have little complications with things like iTunes song locations/playlists and other hard references to files on your drive.
    By installing the OS first, then upgrading, then programs, then finally user files last, keeps the drive optimized as the drive is faster on the data installed first than data installed later.  Since users files change size often, having them towards the end where they can grow or shrink keeps the performance of the computer up as much as possible for the OS and applicaitons. Eventually though with OS X updates it can get a bit more defragmented, but not much.

  • Macbook pro model A1278 wont boot osx stuck at grey screen

    I have had my mbp for about 3 years now and has worked great.  Just today i got home from work and when i opened the macbook which was already running I was in OSX but it was frozen with colored wheel spinning.  I had never experiened this before but I didnt think too much of it and held down the power button to reset it.  Now i am stuck at the grey screen with the Apple Logo and spinning wheel and cant get back into OSX at all.  So i started googling (on another computer obviously) and tried:
    1.  boot in safe mode.  Didnt work, still stuck at grey screen
    2.  boot in safe mode with "commd-shift-v" to see info.  stuck in "dos" looking screen. see pic at bottom.
    3.  tried resetting VRAM w/ "commd-opt-p-r".  did not work, still stuck at grey screen.
    4.  got original OSX install DVD.  Was able to boot to disc and make it to disk utilities.  went to repair and got error "unable to unmount disk"
    5.  ran "repair permissions" and completed that.  ran "verify disk" and got green "disk ok" message.  then re-ran repair and got same "unable to unmount disk"
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    Sorry about specs...i entered in drop box menu but realize doesnt show on thread:
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    Intro Date:
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    Disc Date:
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    Order No:
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    Model No:
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    Subfamily:
    Mid-2009 13"
    Model ID:
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    Std RAM:
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    Std VRAM:
    256 MB
    Std Storage:
    250 GB (5400 RPM)
    Std Optical:
    8X DL "SuperDrive"
    I was running the last vesion of snow leopard (10.6.8 i think).
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  • Intel-based iMac stuck in grey screen with spinning wheel. SMC::smcReadKeyAction ERROR THOP kSMBadArgumentError(0x89)

    Hi guys,
    since yesterday my Intel-Based iMac doesn't boot normally, its stuck in grey screen with a spinning wheel.
    Its an Intel-based iMac 21.5'' purchased in 2011, and i recently (2 months ago) upgraded it to Mavericks.
    -2 weeks ago, i installed smcFanControl app
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    -entered Single User Mode and i get an error
    SMC ::smcReadKeyAction ERROR THOP kSMCBadArgumentError(0x89) fKeyHashTable=0x0xffffff8029fa1000
    -followed some instructions found online, but can execute the correct commands in SingleUserMode
    tried to remove FanControl as explained here: http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/110667/errorr-kernel-smcsmcreadkeyactio n-in-console
    any ideas what may caused this and how can i fix this?
    Thanks in advance

    Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
    Step 1
    The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.   
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    b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, boot from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
    c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
    d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
    Step 2
    If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
    Step 3
    Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
    Step 4
    If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
    Step 5
    If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
    Step 6
    Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
    Step 7
    If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
    Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
    Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
    The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
    When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 10. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
    If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
    If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
    Step 8
    Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
    This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
    Step 9
    Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
    Step 10
    Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
    Step 11
    This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
    Step 12
    If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

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