Stupid battery question

Lets say you charge your mini for 5 hours.. You DO NOT use it at all for 4 days. Why does it drain the battery during those 4 days of no use?

If you don't use your mini for a few days, it goes into a "deep sleep" mode...this will drain some of the battery.
~broadcasterchick

Similar Messages

E6 users please answer. (battery questions)

Hi to all!
So im using a E6 now for 1 week
and from day to day i regret for buying it!!!!!
Some of you tell that battery is awsome ( lucky guys)
and other (like me) hate the phone and battery
Question to happy users?
-does your phone heats while web browsing?
- do you switch off phone over night?
- u use 3g or?
- how many houts of talking you have over day and sms?
- which widgets and programs are you using?
last night i charge a phone from 11pm to 7am.
start web browsing at 7:30am to 7:45am (while i wait in the line)
at 9:00 make a 5 minutes phone call
by the 10:30 battery was at 80%
settings on my phone:
- 1 homescreen. only a fav contacts widget
- mailbox deleted. no mail. no sync..
- display illumination at 2, 15 second display light
- 3g is switched off
- d pad illumination switched off
- silent profile ( only vibration on)
NOKIA MUST RESPONSE FOR THIS QUESTION:
NOKIA THIS ISNT FUNNY

yeah it's **bleep**. Even with power save mode, it goes to 80 percent in no time.

HP Touchpad with battery question mark

Hi ,
my HP Touchpad shows battery question mark symbol, what should i do ?
Thanks in advance
Regards ermoberlin
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hold the Power button to attempt to turn the TP off.
When the TP is off, press and hold the power and volume up buttons.
The TP should power on and display the USB trident symbol.
At that point you're in USB mode and should be able to use webOS Doctor 3.0.5 I suggest using WebOS Doctor to reset the TP to its delivered condition
The forum with the greatest amount of resources for the HP Touchpad is the HP WebOS Forum. I highly recommend joining that forum.
This nicely written and illustrated standard Touchpad troubleshooting tutorial is at the WebOS forum.
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2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

Hard drive 6 gb/s and PRAM battery questions

I have two questions:
1) Does iMac Core Duo 20'' (early 2006 first intel model) support 6 gb/s hard drive (I recently bought a WESTERN DIGITAL Sata III 6 Gb / s buffer 64 Mb 7200 rpm)? when I will upgrade my hard drive it will recognize 6 gb/s speed data transfer? or it will recognize lesser?
2) Can I use any 3V Lithium CR2032 coin Battery as PRAM battery replacement on my iMac? I know that its 3V CR2032 from Mactracker or nay other sites from internet, but I would like to know if I can use a battery from any brand or shoul I get the exact same of the one apple use?
thanks!

1.5 Gb/s is the controller transfer speed for that model. SATA 3 at 6 Gb/s didn't arrive until after those computers were produced. SATA 2 can be jumpered down to 1.5 Gb/s (WD SATA 2 drives will use jumpers on pins 5&6), which you may or may not have to do, depending on the drive.
Not a guess. The WD drive you bought won't work.
You don't need the ridiculously overpriced Apple battery.
Specs here.
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/stats/imac_cd_2.0_20.html

IMovie and iDVD, Stupid Upgrade Questions, Sorry Must Ask

Okay, the deal is I have a PowerMac G4 Version 2.1 with a Combo Drive. I am upgrading to Mac OSX 3.0 so I can do certain things in iMovie and acquire a better browser. (My constraints on the iMovie project about which I've been inquiring are that at least 40 people have been waiting for copies of it for about a month and wondering why I don't come through with it--I sent a lengthy explanation to the guy who'll be duplicating it in case anyone asks. That's one reason I'm in such a hurry I have to ask urgent questions at forums and newsgroups and don't take the time to read every word ever written on every one of these systems and their various applications, abilities, and uses.)
I started out thinking I was about one step from having a completed project and the more I learn, the more grim the situation looks. Yet I've done ALL THIS WORK already to create beautiful titles and elaborately-edited outtakes. I HATE to ditch it all if any faint hope flickers into sight!
My Mac came with the following:
iMovie 3.0.3 -- which seems to be working fine, only problem is, due to deficiencies in other equipment, I'm having trouble getting my movie to DVD or into any other form where it can be played anywhere outside the Mac!
iDVD 2.1 -- My feeble brain, inadequate as it may be, has so far gathered the information that to go to DVD, a project can't be played in iMovie and sent straight to a DVD burner (can it?) There has to be some intermediary step. (Right?) People have argued the various merits of iDVD vs. Toast to accomplish this step. I hadn't opened my copy of iDVD because I am in no way near the point of being ready to make a DVD--I have not yet finished editing the project in iMovie. I made the hideous error of ASSUMING that since this came installed in my Mac, it would work fine when needed, just as iMovie did. When I tried to open it just to see what version I had, it wouldn't open and told me this:
System Requirements
iDVD 2 requires a PowerMac G4 computer with 256 Megs of RAM, a built-in DVD-R Superdrive and Mac OS 10.1.3 or later.
Stupid redundant bonus question #1: WHY would this come installed on a Mac which lacks the hardware to use it? (iMovie could still be used to edit, and then copy projects--if I had a digital video camera--which I don't. The only other way we've figured is to send it back through the Canopus ADVC110 converter I used to get the video in there, and play it out to a VCR--a cumbersome process I've been assured will result in crummy quality.)
Okay, here are the REAL questions:
1. I don't suppose there's any way the Canopus could be connected to the DVD burner and the information sent to a DVD that way? Just asking.
2. Obviously the upgrade isn't going to fix things to make iDVD work, as I'm already using Mac OSX 10.2.8, so I would assume its discontent stems from not having the Superdrive--at least, it was complaining something about inadequate hardware and I think that's what it meant. Will connecting a DVD burner via FireWire convince iDVD to work (either automatically or after some sort of tweaking), or am I stuck replacing the drive? I bought a DVD burner the minute I realized my drive was a Combo Drive and not a Superdrive (which is the first time I stuck a blank DVD in it and nothing happened) before learning details about this intermediary step and that there is more than one way to accomplish it.
3. Is it even worth replacing the Combo Drive with a Superdrive or is it more worth buying a whole new Mac? If I am FORCED to buy a new Mac, what should I do with the old one? (Not only am I ethically opposed to tossing a perfectly good piece of electronic equipment into the ravine, I might get fined for littering. Can a good home be found for it? For that matter it would be a pain as I've saved all sorts of stuff to the Hard Drive which would have to be transferred to the new one before I could get rid of the old one. So can I keep the old one...PLEASE?)
4. After making the system upgrade, will I be able to bypass iDVD entirely by using Toast, or does Toast also have all sorts of requirements my hardware does not possess so I'll still be SOL, stuck replacing drives or even the whole Mac, or going directly to crummy-quality VHS as there is NO OTHER WAY OUT?
5. After making the system upgrade, would I be ready for more advanced versions of iMovie and iDVD? Are any upgrades free, or does every improvement cost? Do I get them all at the Apple site, order some of them from some supplier or other the way I did with the Mac OSX upgrade, or what?
Thanks for helping to clear up my massive confusion!!!

Wow, thanks. It's good to know iDVD is still an option, even if I don't buy the Superdrive (is that even possible, to get the Combo Drive taken out of my current Mac and a Superdrive put in? There's a question still unanswered.)
(I think this is good to know--because part of my reasoning in asking the question was to eliminate one option or the other, and now I'm ending up with options of options, but hold on for Part 2 as I do have some questions concerning the capabilities of iDVD and Toast.)
Partly answering one of my own questions (although I'd appreciate confirmation from someone who actually knows,) if these Toast 7 requirements mean what I think they do, I don't see anywhere that it says the computer MUST have a Superdrive and CAN'T use an external DVD burner!
Toast 7 Titanium
Requirements:
* PowerPC G4 processor or faster (G5 recommended for viewing DivX files on your Mac)
* PowerPC G3 processor and Mac OS 10.2 users, see Toast 6 Titanium or Popcorn
* Mac OS X v10.3.9 or later
* 300 MB of free disk space to install
* Up to 15 GB of temporary free disk space during usage
* QuickTime 7 or later
* CD or DVD burner and recordable media
If this is true (that I can use an external DVD burner) I like Toast already! My Quicktime Player is only version 6.5.2--is it going to be difficult, expensive, or both, to upgrade that? If it is or the other System Requirements are not met I can just go with Toast 6.
As far as those requirements, I promise you I don't understand a word of it but here is what my System Profiler says my Mac has. Maybe someone can make sense of it and help me decide which version of Toast to get or, if not, what to do:
System Profile
Software Overview:
| |
| System version : Mac OS X 10.2.8 (6R73)
(As I said, I'm upgrading to 10.3.0 soon, and obviously if I want Toast 7 gotta figure out the best way to go to 10.3.9 or higher.)
| Boot volume : Hard Drive |
| Kernel version : Darwin Kernel Version 6.8: Wed Sep 10 15:20:55 PDT 2003; root:xnu/xnu-344.49.obj~2/RELEASE_PPC |
Hardware Overview:
| |
| Machine speed : 867 MHz |
| Bus speed : 133 MHz |
| Number of processors : 2 |
| L2 cache size : 256K (times 2) |
| L3 cache size : 1MB (times 2) |
| Machine model : Power Mac G4 (version = 2.1) |
| Boot ROM info : 4.4.6f2
Memory Overview:
Location Type Size
DIMM0/J21 DDR SDRAM 256 MB
DIMM1/J22 DDR SDRAM 512 MB
DIMM2/J23 empty
DIMM3/J20 empty
Network Overview:
Built-in:
| |
| Flags : 0x8051<Up,PpoinToPoint,Running,Multicast> |
| Ethernet address : 00.00.00.00.00.00 |
| IP : 67.0.142.95--> 67.0.128.6 |
| Subnet Mask : 255.0.0.0 |
| |
Devices and Volumes
PCI:
SLOT-1(AGP):
| |
| Card Type : NVDA,GeForce4MX |
| Card Name : NVDA,Parent |
| Card Model : GeForce4 MX |
| Vendor ID : 10de |
| Device ID : 172 |
| ROM# : 1121 |
| Revision : a5 |
| |
USB Information:
USB Bus 0:
Apple internal modem:
| |
| Product ID : 33282 ($8202) |
| Vendor : HCF USB V.90 Data/Fax Modem |
| Device Speed : Full |
| Power (mA) : 500
FireWire Information:
No FireWire devices found.:
(Unsure why it says this as the Canopus Converter is a FireWire device and it's connected, turned on, and has been working.)
Bus:
CD-RW/DVD-ROM:
| |
| Disc Burning : Fully supported.
(Obviously this means CDs only, not DVDs.)
Hard Drive:
| |
| Disk Size : 57.26 GB (1K = 1024) 62 GB (1K = 1000) |
| Unit Number : 0 |
| ATA Device Type : ata |
| Device Serial : VNC303A3L6AAHA |
| Device Revision : VA3BA52A |
| Device Model : IBM-IC35L060AVVA07-0 |
| |
Hard Drive:
| |
| Volume Size : 57.26 GB (1K = 1024) 62 GB (1K = 1000) |
| Ejectable : No |
| Writable : Yes
One thing which may really sway me in favor of Toast is, will it make possible burning 2-hour DVDs? Supposedly iDVD will not enable anything longer than 90 minutes, and when I get to the other big project for which I really want to use the Canopus ADVC 110 converter, that is, converting my home movies from either VHS or 8mm video camera tape to DVD--well, ALL of my tapes are two hours long, because that's the way they come!! I don't see being limited to making 90-minute DVDs as anything but another GIANT PAIN of which I'm already amply supplied! So if Toast will fix this dilemma I'm ALL FOR IT!
As always, thanks for help and advice.

Battery Question: Pavilion dv6-6c65sx

I have : HP Pavilion dv6-6c65sx Entertainment Notebook PC with Windows 7 64-bit
I bough it as a Desktop Replacement, so, it is almost my only machine.I use it all the time.
I plug the AC Adapter to it with the battery in place , But I am not sure this is the best practice for it.
I heard the battery gets weaker when plugged to AC Adapter all time.
What is really the best practice, knowning that I rarely move with it?
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi,
If you use the notebook on AC Power nearly all of the time, I would suggest storing the battery as the machine will run perfectly well without it installed and you gain the advantage of increasing the usable life of your battery.
The primary factors affecting the lifespan of a lithium ion battery are the number of charge/discharge cycles and if stored, the temperature.
If you wish to store the battery, drain it to around 40% charge, then remove it, wrap it in a plastic bag and store it in a cool location such as a refrigerator ( not freezer ). It's also a good idea, once a month, to fully charge, fully discharge, fully charge and then drain to 40% again before storing.
Best regards,
DP-K
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****Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem****
****I don't work for HP****
Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience

MacBook Pro with retina display battery question

I recently bought a 15" macbook pro with retina display, and was wondering if my battery is working as it should.
I usually get about 3:03 hours with brightness at full and keyboard backlight at full with skype (not using it but on),safari with 6 tabs,twitter, and mail.
Oh and im also watching a youtube video on 720p.
My question is this:
Is the battery life supposed to be like this?
ON mountain lion 10.8.2 and a lot of people are saying i should be at about 5-8 hours.
Any recommended solutions?
EDIT
Just after i finished writing this my battery time estimate went up, its now 4-4:50 hours left

When I use my MBP on battery, I turn screen brightness down to about four bars and keyboard backlighting down to a single bar. I usually only have open a handful of Internet apps (Firefox, Outlook, etc.) and spend most of the time simply web-surfing, watching very few videos. And I can get almost 7 hours out of a fully charged battery. When new, I was getting 7+ hours, but with 182 cycles and the fact that the computer is 8 months old now, that's not bad.
Turn everything down as low as you can stomach and you should get a good 6 hours of battery time, if you keep your video to a minimum and use the built-in graphics card (to force this, use gfxCardStatus).
Good luck,
Clinton

Battery Question

Just a quick question in regard to making my battery last for longer.
I use my Macbook Pro 9 times out of 10 as my main computer just on my office desk, every now and again i might use it outside but not regularly.
Basically its my desktop computer.
Currently i have it plugged into the power all the time.
Now is this the best thing to do in regard to the battery as i always thought it kind of 'skipped' the battery being plugged in all the time and only uses the battery when not plugged in.
Is this correct or not and whats the best way to use in regard to its usage i explained above?
Thanks

Disconnect from AC power and run on battery for several hours per week. Leaving it plugged in constantly is bad for the battery - Li-based batteries need to used to maintain their health.
More tips here:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1764220

Total Mac Virgin with a stupid, simple question:

There are no stupin questions, just stupid people, so here it goes. I'm trying to post an image on MySpace from iPhoto. I rotated it 90 degrees and it looks right in iPhoto, but when I upload it, it's ****-eyed. Someone please help. I'm a GenX'er but I feel like a geezer having to ask for help.

Hi, fellow GenX'er.
A couple of things could cause this. First, in which application did you rotate the image? Some apps, like Preview, don't change the source file, but rather tag the image for display. So when you export you see it unrotated. Rotating in iPhoto does create a rotated file which will look correct when exported. As long as you haven't done it in Preview prior to import, that is.
That get us to the 2nd possibility. How did you access the file when uploading? If you went through the iPhoto library files, you may have taken the wrong file. The Original may be unrotated, the Data too small... the edited version is in the Modified folder. Instead of grabbing from the library, it is recommended that you select the image in iPhoto and File > Export > File Export to a folder on your desktop, then upload from there (trash the desktop copy when done). This ensures that you are choosing the correct, full-sized, edited image. When exporting you also have the option to resize for a more web-appropriate file.

New Macbook Pro user with battery questions.

I just recently picked up a Macbook Pro and have been reading up on how to take care of the battery. I pretty much know everything I need to know to prolong it's life, but there's one question I can't find the answer to:
Once I plug it in to charge regardless of the % it's in (20%, 50%, 70%, etc), do I need to keep it plugged in until it's fully charged, or can I remove it at anytime? Say I don't have enough time to wait for it to fully charge and have to unplug it when it's only at 86%, will that damage the battery in any way?

See the Table in this link, the section Do I need to apply a full charge? answers your question. Your battery is Lithium ion.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_charge_when_to_charge_table

IPhone 3G uses Smaller Battery / Question

According to this tear down:
http://live.ifixit.com/Guide/First-Look/iPhone3G
The battery is actually lower in capacity than of the original iPhone.
My question is: Would it be possible to replace the included Battery with a larger size?

Ouch! That's certainly a bummer... why would Apple do this? If they complain 3G ***** down more battery (the reason why 3G was not included in the original iPhone, and the fact that the 3G settings screen says it too), you would think that the iPhone 3G would have at least the same battery capacity if not more.
I think this is a conspiracy to get people to subscribe to mobile me to get push email instead of people like me who set my phone to fetch mail every 15 minutes. My battery on the iPhone 3G is down to 10% at night with very little use throughout the day (other than checking mail and a couple of phone calls). And I only have 1 email account set up.
Compared to my original iPhone, I have 3 email accounts that are checked every 15 minutes, and I'm usually at 40% battery left when I go to bed at night.

Stupid security question answers.

I have read the "Rescue email and reset Apple ID security questions" article so many times and also added new rescue emails to my account, but I still can't change the security question answers. I have money on my account that just sits there. I have tried a few months ago and since then i still can't do anything but download free stuff. I have recieved no email about reseting anything and would like to get a better answer then the stupid apple one.

A rescue email address is not the same thing as an alternate email address - they are different settings/addresses, and a rescue email address can only be added by answering 2 of your security questions. If you didnt already have a rescue email address set up on your account then see if the instructions on this user tip helps younger the questions reset : https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4551

Lumia 800 touch not working and battery question m...

I have been quite happy with my two months old Lumia 800 until recently when I accidentally dropped it on cobblestone and damaged the glass. Although the phone still worked I ordered a new combined glass, digitizer and screen from an internet supplier. The spare part was OEM and it was relatively painless to replace the old screen with the new screen. However, after replacing the screen, touch did not work and a question mark appeared over the battery icon. I searched the forum and other places on the internet and found out that this type of issue had been seen before and that it in some cases could be fixed by an upgrade of the firmware and a hard reset.
Now a few frustrated days later I am starting to think that possibly the replacement part is faulty as I have tried various firmwares, various ways to charge the battery with various types of USB chargers, but still no success. The phone simply won't respond to touch. Currently I am on firmware 1750.805.8773.12220.
Would any of you in the forum have any ideas what could possibly be wrong? Could it be a broken cable to the screen? I had similar issues with an iPhone 3GS which turned out to have a dodgy ribbon cable connecting the phone and the digitizer, but I cannot seem to find anything on the net mentioning this as a potential problem and I am wondering just how likely it is that the part is faulty, when the screen works fine and only the touch functionality is not working.
Any ideas would be much appreciated. It is very difficult to get in touch with Nokia in Denmark as their support phone is not working and the websites chat functionality seems to be off line all the time.
Best regards,
Anders

You shouldn't have used the phone at all after it dropped in Water.
Only Nokia Care can assess the extent of damage and tell you the repair cost. First, they should accept the device for repairs..and Second, this is certainly not covered under Warranty ..
Even if the phone is repaired with replacing a few components, not sure about the effect of the seepage on other parts which may start acting in a short span ...

Some Battery Question

Hi
I've some question on MacBook Pro 13 (late 2009) battery. I've read around that an healthy battery need to have voltage around 12.5-12.2.
I've noticed that my specs are different...i've a some problem with my battery?
here the info on my battery: (sorry but it's in italian)
Informazioni batteria:
Informazioni sul modello:
Numero di serie: 9G94608W48VNC
Produttore: DP
Nome dispositivo: bq20z451
Pack Lot Code: 0000
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Versione firmware: 0003
Revisione hardware: 0002
Revisione cella: 0100
Informazioni sulla carica:
Carica restante (mAh): 4300
Carica completa: No
In carica: No
Capacità a carica completa (mAh): 5247
Informazioni sulle condizioni della batteria:
Conteggio cicli: 35
Condizione: Normale
Batteria installata: Sì
Amperaggio (mA): -823
Voltaggio (mV): 11899
Impostazioni d’alimentazione del sistema:
Corrente alternata (AC):
Timer per la messa in stop del sistema (minuti): 10
Timer per la messa in stop del disco (minuti): 10
Timer per la messa in stop del monitor (minuti): 10
Riattiva se cambia la corrente alternata: No
Riattiva aprendo lo schermo: Sì
Riattiva se connesso a LAN: No
Lo stop del monitor usa l'attenuazione di luminosità: Sì
Batteria:
Timer per la messa in stop del sistema (minuti): 10
Timer per la messa in stop del disco (minuti): 10
Timer per la messa in stop del monitor (minuti): 2
Riattiva se cambia la corrente alternata: No
Riattiva aprendo lo schermo: Sì
Fonte di alimentazione attuale: Sì
Lo stop del monitor usa l'attenuazione di luminosità: Sì
Riduci la luminosità: Sì
Configurazione hardware:
UPS installata: No
Informazioni sul dispositivo di ricarica CA:
Collegato: No
In carica: No
Thanks
for your help
Filippo

Hi Filippo and welcome to the forums.
The "nominal" voltage of batteries fitted in MBps is actually only 10.8V. When fully charged it will be over 12 Volts , when close to discharged it will be below 11 volts.
Your battery looks fine.
Cheers
Rod

Battery question about Mega Player 540

Hi,
I recently bought MSI MP540 and I'm absolutely delited with it's sound and features, but...
There's always some BUT, mine is this one:
The salesman where I bought it had told me to form a battery as a first thing to do before further usage.
I came home, turn the player on and LED indicator stated that the battery is at full charge so I continued as a following...
I connected it to my comp, copied some mp3 music on it and started to listen it for an aproximately 5 hours when the battery went to low and the player had turned itself off.
I read the manual which states that you should leave the player for a first time charge for an 8 hours.
Every other charge from that one should take aproximately 5 hours for a full recharge, or a 3 hours of charging for a 80% of battery power.
What's the problem then?
When I put my player to recharge with it's ac/dc adaptor it is recharging itself for a two hours only and then simply stops.
The power indicator on a player is yellow/orange and states full recharge.When I turn the player on and start listening mp3s only, it plays aproximately 4-5 hours until it's empty again.(just like the first time when I bought it)
Is this normal or not, cause the manual "sais" the things I already mentioned and "8 hours of total mp3 playing time" also?
Cheers.

thanks for your reply stu,
I appreciate your advice and hope that would help me.
I couldn't find similar question to the one I posted so I had left myself undecided between many choices; is the MP 540 manual correct or not,
is the battery fully functional or less power type, or am I doing something wrong.
Cheers

Stupid battery question

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