Suitable Graphics card for older msi P67A-C43 motherboard

I need to replace an old PCIEx16 graphics card which is now in this motherboard which has a PCIex16 slot.
This replacement is not for gaming but rather for general use. What's important is quietness (no fan) and low power consumption since my power supply is relatively modest - 450w I think.
Would the current range PCIE 2 x16 cards such as the MSI GeForce GT 730 2GB or other PCIe 3 x16 work work in this motherboard?

Yes it is the B3 version. I was using the latest bios (5.4 2013-01-09) until recently but was having various problems keeping cpu and other settings with my i5 2500k cpu. With Svet's help I've reflashed to version 1J (2012-08-01) which is more Sandy Bridge cpu friendly.
So, in the end I'm just looking to find a video card that I'm 100% sure will work with this motherboard.

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MSI P67A-C43 problems

Hey everyone. I recently bought a MSI P67A-C43 using a Intel i5 2500K and everything has been working great until recently. I realized it has a post beep every time you turn it on, which is the short beeps followed by a 5th beep and everything starts running after that. Well for some reason recently my computer turns on and the post beeps go 4 times and then it takes a good 3 minutes or more for the 5th beep to go through and everything starts up. I'm not sure what is going on with it and I'm hoping that the mother board doesn't have an issue.
The System has in it:
- MSI P67A-C43 (B3) Mainboard
- Intel Core i5-2500K
- COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus HSF
- XFX Black Edition P1-750B-CAG9 750W ATX12V v2.2 / ESP12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER PSU
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- Turtle Beach Montego DDL 7.1 Sound card
Any idea what could be wrong?

I'm not sure what it is, I could deal with it but I'm afraid one of these times I will go turn the computer on and it won't start up windows at all.
Anyone have any advice on what might be going on?

MSI P67a-c43 rev B3 temperature problem?

Hi, I've had my MSI P67a-c43 rev b3 since the spring of '11 and I've been very happy with it, haven't had any real problems with it at all actually.
Recently, I did however install a program to monitor the heat of my parts after a odd bluescreen, and I was frightened about what I found.
These temperatures were read after a intense gaming session (full load I guess)
SpeedFan: Temp2: 172 celsius
CPUID HWMonitor: TMPIN1: 127 celsius
None of the other temperatures are hotter than 40-50 celsius
After some googling around I found other users with the same MoBo having this issue, and it seems that the chipset which is located near the PCI-E port gets covered by the graphics card and either gets extremely hot or has a faulty temperature sensor.
As I said I've been using this rig since spring '11 and I haven't had any problems, I have only checked the temperatures the last few days however, so it's either been this hot for every day for almost two years or something bad has happened recently.
Wouldn't my MoBo have melted if a metal piece on it was over 100 degrees celsius, or atleast showed some issues?
Setup:
MSI P67a-c43 rev b3
Intel i5-2500k 3,3 GHz
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC
Corsair Vengeance 2x4096 1600 MHz CL9
Win7 64-bit
I haven't overclocked or otherwise tampered with anything but installed these RAM's since I originally bought it.
So is there a heat problem or is there a malfunctioning sensor?

Try taking the door off and pointing a fan at the mainboard and see if the temp changes.

MSI P67A-C43/ Corsair HX620 or Corsair CX 500 Buzzing

Hello Everyone,
Been a member long time and recently returned to the MSI fold with this amazing little board. It over clocks amazingly well and is an excellent entry level p67 board. However I do have one issue with my setup which is listed below:
CPU: Intel 2500K
Board: MSI P67A-C43 flashed to the latest BIOS (as of May 25th)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper 1600Mhz 2x4 GB (1.25V)
GPU: HIS 6950-2GB
HDD: Seagate 1TB 7200.11 (SATA)
Optical: Samsung 223F
PSUs: Corsair HX 620 and CX 500
Now the problem using either of the two power supplies result in a low noise buzzing sound emitting from the power supply units. It does not matter which one, both exhibit similar behavior. This occurs EVEN if i remove the video card. This only happens when i turn the system on. This is NOT your video card buzzing noise which comes and goes with load on the video card; the noise persists even if i run the system without a video card (of course i can't see anything but i can hear the noise emitting from the Power supply)
Both these power supplies work without noise in other systems (based on Intel, Asus and older MSI boards).
Has anyone else experienced this? I know of video card associated PSU related noise, but this is definitely an issue between these two power units and the mother board.
THINGS I HAVE ALREADY TRIED (in combination and individually)
1. Disabling all power saving features
2. Disabling active phase control/ changing between two provided settings for APS
3. Disabling phase control LEDS
4. Running at stock, over-clocked and under-clocked
5. Disabling onboard peripherals (audio, usb ports, etc)
Have I missed anything that i should try.
Is this a sign of impending trouble (i.e. should i RMA this board) OR just a cause of annoyance and raging headaches
Thanks in advance to all readers/ posters!

Quote from: Bernhard on 26-May-11, 00:31:22
You are stating that both PSUs do not emit this noise when used on other systems. Were the PSUs plugged into the same wall outlet that you are using now when you tested them on the other PCs?
Just a possibility that the noise originates somewhere in the electrical supply circuit that you are using now.
Thank you for your reply.
Yes that is correct. And yes the outlet is the same as well. I have even done an experiment where i used the processor & memory from this (P67A-C43) in another board (P8P67, and vice versa) just to make sure the CPU and memory are not the culprits. No dice. The issue is definitely between the board and the power supply units.
As both PSUs have different OEMS (seasonic and CWT if i am not mistaken) I just want to be sure it is not a problem with a board that will cause it to fail later on.

MSI P67A-C43 (B3) USB not working but theres a twist! Help!

:lol_anim:I Have built a new rig with the MSI P67A-C43 (B3) Motherboard, 16GB DDR3 PC3-10600 1333MHz Memory (4GB x 4), Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz 6M LGA1155 Processor, 550 Watt 80 PLUS Bronze Power Supply,24x DVDRW, 3.5" Internal Card Reader with 2 USB ports, 500GB 7200RPM 3.5" SATA Hard Drive(which i plan on upgrading just didnt want to waste money on the shitty HD they had.....
So down to the nitty gritty . My computer is running Windows 7 64 Bit, i have downloaded all of the updates and all of the Chip-set drivers, Bios, etc... i ran a system registry tool to clean up any errors in my registry and i have ALL of my drivers up to date.
I have my USB mouse and keyboard that connect fine and are recognized by my computer, sometimes they stop working and start back up within seconds but windows does display any type of error or disconnection "this may have been fixed due to the registry cleaner i used i haven't had any hiccups yet" so i have my USB mouse and USB keyboard working fine and dandy now i think. got a new headset and the windows finds the USB Headset and it works Perfectly fine. BUT and this is where my whole frustration comes out. Whenever i connect my I-Pod Touch, I-Pod Nano, My Cell phone to copy files to from my SD Card, or my External My Passport drive Windows says "USB Device was not recognized" notification and in the Device manager it shows the one device with a yellow exclamation point and says "Unknown Device" I have tried to uninstall the USB hubs and reinstalled them perfectly restarted windows, still non of the devices work. i have tried making sure that windows tries not to turn off the device to save power, when i say i have tried almost everything i mean everything that is related with USB Device not Recognized. So i do not know what to do now, i have contacted the Manufacturer and they don't know squat about it or what could be causing it. the only thing i can think of is there is some hardware maybe that is not compatible i do hear some beeps when i start up i will have to come back and update how many beeps" i saw another post that it means the motherboard is trying to tell me something maybe this could be the issue. but i have tried every single usb port and non of them Recognize the device but when i plus in my mouse and keyboard in diff ports they still work so i am a bit confused. my last step is to return the computer to the manufacturer for a replacement or repair w/e i do not want to do this cause this should be working. my friend has almost the exact same MB and equipment and his works fine so i am getting a little frustrated with the issue Someone Pls Help me out. And yes i have tried turning off the computer, unplugging it and pressing the power button, and waiting like 1 Hour etc and still nothing. Drivers are Up-to-Date and Mother board bios and chip-set drivers are Up-to-Date as well. I hope someone knows or has an answer to help me out!

Yes the Bios is Up-to-Date and they are not plugged into the Blue USB 3.0 ports(x2). oh and forgot to mention already did a clean install again of Windows 7 64bit and still nothing. Im also wondering if the power supply is enough?? maybe?

MSI P67A-C43 (B3) Trouble

I have the MSI P67A-C43 (B3) motherboard with a Core i5 2500K, a 600w OCZ PSU, 1TB WD Black Caviar HDD, Radeon HD 4670, and some Corsair Vengeance RAM.
I just put it together and it turns on, but nothing comes on to my screen. All of the fans start, the LEDs on the MB light up saying the CPU is on, CPU fan spins, and GPU fan spins. I don't know what's wrong with it, I switched the RAM around and also tried only using one stick and it gave me different errors, so I assume the RAM works. The speaker/buzzer made noises that went like this: mid mid high low low low low low
MB:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130571
CPU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072
GPU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161315
PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341017
HDD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145348

Quote
i unplugged everything and then reassembled, testing along the way
Have you tested the board outside the case on a non-conducting surface in barebone configuration? Yes or no? If the answer is "no", then that is what you should do next/first. Get rid of the case. It is not needed for troubleshooting.
Also, have you >>Cleares CMOS<<?
Quote
I've done as many tests as I know how to do.
What did you test exactly? Please make a list that tells us your precise steps!
Quote
CPU doesn't even seems to have pins.
Did you check the socket pins? Yes or no? Check the CPU's contact pads for areas of poor, missing or double imprints from the board's socket pins!
When you board is on a non-conducting surface (get rid of the case!) you can pretty much rule out short circuit problems. In barebone configuration, the following parts should be involved:
- board
- CPU + cooler/heatsink
- one stick of RAM
- video card
- PSU with all power connectors connected (--> 4/8 Pin +12V CPU, 24 Pin ATX, 6/8 Pin +12v PCI-E [video card])
- keyboard
Everything else should be unplugged completely! Your video shows a hard drive/SATA device connected to the board. Unplug that. It is not needed for troubleshooting.
Your problem could be caused by any of the components mentioned above, not necessarely the mainboard.
Quote
CPU+MB+PSU=shutdown right away
CPU+MB+PSU+HDD=shutdown right away
CPU+MB+PSU+HDD+RAM=BEEP CODE, same one as the above one
When the board was inside the case when you did that, then the test is useless because a short circuit problem could still be at the bottom of this. Also, you need to check your socket pins and the contact pads. This could be a plain and simple pin-contact problem, caused by broken pins or a heatsink that is fastened to tight.

MSI P67A-C43 doesn't boot, code A3.

MSI P67A-C43 doesn't boot. Shows video card info, then beeps 3+1, shows 99, 98, A3 codes at lower right and freezes at A3. :(
Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3Ghz CPU, one Corsair XMS3 4GB PC10666 DDR3 memory at DIMM1, Galaxy GeForce GTX 460 1GB GDDR5 PCIe video, Seagate 1TB LP SATA-3G HD.
I did clear CMOS, didn't help.
What could I do, what to look at?
Thanks a lot.

Quote from: haasje_1 on 25-January-11, 22:16:48
I had the same problem with a P67A-C45 board. The problem is your videocard .I build my system with a Nvidia gt9500 and it didn't work. After a bit of testing (and also a new mainboard) I found out that after changing the videocard with an old ati card it does work). I send an e-mail to msi support i got a new biosversion for my mainboard (1.68) and everything works fine now.
Videocard it is. Thanks a lot, I'd never guess.
With simple ATI card id loads well.
So, is it going to work with GTX460 if I get latest BIOS?

I am trying to find out the proper graphic card for mac.

I am trying to find out the proper graphic card for imac. The graphic card which is mentioned in the web sit, that Graphic Card is not available in the open market. In open market NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M and NVIDIA GeForce GT 755M is available and this card is not mentioned in web site. So please help to select a proper suitable GPU.

Are they supportable for After Effects ray-traced 3d renderer.
I am confused because adobe recommended on the following graphic card.
Mac OS
GeForce GTX 285
GeForce GTX 675MX
GeForce GTX 680
GeForce GTX 680MX
GeForce GT 650M
Quadro CX
Quadro FX 4800
Quadro 4000
Quadro K5000

MSI P67A-C43 (B3) & OCZ Vertex 3 VTX3-25SAT3 Issues

Specifications:
Quote
Mobo/Laptop: MSI P67A-C43 (B3)
BIOS: 1.B (2011-04-14)
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K
RAM: 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 CML8GX3M2A1600C9B
Vid: ASUS ENGTX560 TI DCII TOP/2DI/1GD5 GeForce GTX 560 Ti
PSU: HX750 (CMPSU-750HX)
HDD: OCZ Vertex 3 VTX3-25SAT3-120G v2.11
Chipset: Intel P67 (B3) RSD v10.6.0.1002
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit SP1
Let's start from the beginning: So I built my PC in July and ever since I've been having on and off BSODs with the Vertex 3 drive. Mostly they'll happen once a week. When I first built the machine my drive came with Firmware 2.06. I installed all the drivers from MSI's website as well as the latest Intel Rapid Storage Drivers. Eventually I flashed the SSD to 2.11 when it was released but still had similar issues. Hotplugging was enabled when I installed Windows 7 for the first time AND when I flashed to 2.11 from 2.06. Some members over on the OCZ boards stated this might have been the cause of the BSOD. Basically the PC froze, BSOD'd, restarted, and then the system couldn't detect the drive. I had to power the system down, remove the power cable, wait 10 seconds, re-connect the cable and power on the PC. After I did this Windows booted normally.
I received some advice on the OCZ forums to reset CMOS and leave hotplugging disabled. Then re-flash the drive to 2.11 with hotplugging disabled. Some members thought this would make the drive act like an internal drive, not an external drive. However, a week after doing this the same BSOD appeared. I've started from scratch last week by secure erasing the drive and re-installing Windows, but same issues. I noticed MSI released a new BIOS for my board in July. I have the one from April currently.
Is it worth upgrading my BIOS? The listed fixes don't say anything about SSDs.
I plan on trying this when I get home from work:
Quote from: Tony;676791
Going to keep this brief and to the point, this hack will force the 2 primary sata2 or sata3 ports on the motherboards to be designated Internal only...You can do this hack for all Intel chipsets from around ICH8 onwards in win7 and Vista.
You also need to make sure hotplugging is disabled in uefi/bios if your boards bios has the option(s) do this first before you do any of these regedits etc
1 Remove all traces of Intel drivers on your system, that means remove the management engine driver, the RST driver and the INF driver, you do this thru the programs and features option in control panel. I remove them all before I reboot, the system will automagically set you using the MSAHCI driver.
2 Now reboot, let win7 detect the ssd and reboot again.
3 now open a elevated command window (CMD with administrator privileges) and copy/paste the following...then hit enter.
Code: [Select]
reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\msahci\Controller0\Channel0" /f /v TreatAsInternalPort /t REG_DWORD /d 0x00000001
Once you hit enter you can then add the following again using copy/paste.
Code: [Select]
reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\msahci\Controller0\Channel1" /f /v TreatAsInternalPort /t REG_DWORD /d 0x00000001
Hit enter and close CMD.EXE down, reboot
This will now force the 2 sata 3 ports to Internal only, this means they will apply LPM if you set it and will support Automatic Partial to slumber.
I now suggest you experiment with power schemes, for some high performance may work better than balanced...try both
You also need to make sure hotplugging is disabled in uefi do this first before you do any of these regedits etc
If you want to go a step further than this you can try the following...ONLY do this after you have done the steps above.
remove the SSD to start
1 create a temporary win7 install on a hdd, use the msahci driver and once installed do the hack to force the 2 ports to internal only. Have the hdd connected to port 1 on the motherboard.
2 once the install is ready and you have installed toolbox to it power down and connect the SSD to port 0
3 now boot to the HDD, use the manual boot menu option to make sure you are booting to the HDD and make sure hotplugging is OFF in UEFI
4 once in win7, flash the FW to the drive, when its finished flashing, close toolbox, reboot back to the HDD and back into win7...make sure the SSD is detected in my computer.
5 now power off, remove the HDD...then boot to UEFI and make sure to set the SSD as first boot device
6 Power up, boot to the SSD
Stay using the MSAHCI driver for now, do not install any INF, IME or RST drivers.
Edit 09/09/11
Had a few end users quoting disabling TRIM solved BSOD for them...now im not saying it will solve BSOD for all but it may be worth trying. Remember the SandForce controller was originally designed without TRIM in mind, it functions just fine without it so you should see no loss of performance. If you want to help the controller stay fast you could always add some extra over provisioning by reducing the volume on the drive and leaving that space unallocated...totally up to you what you do though....
I like 25% OP on my drives, this means if I have a 120 with 115GB showing in windows I lose 15GB to OP and use 100GB for the volume....
A forum member wrote a little script to enable /disable trim...he wrote in support for wiper for Indilinx drives also...just ignore that part and use the TRIM function only...
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?63830-A-small-script-to-enable-disable-Trim
Here is a link to force TRIM also.. http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?73888-Here-s-a-tool-to-force-TRIM-your-entire-drive&p=523305&viewfull=1#post523305 you could if you wanted use this once a week to force the drive to TRIM all marked deleted blocks if you turn off native TRIM in win7.
Again....not saying this cures any BSOD but a few end users have said they disabled TRIM and issues went away...anything I have suggested here is totally reversible and will do no harm to your systems.
If this doesn't work and I get a BSOD after a week I'll disable TRIM and if that doesn't work I have no idea. OCZ said they're working on a new firmware release so who knows. I just hate feeling like I am a beta tester.
If anyone has any suggestions let me know.

OK, had some time to go test your suggestions here
These are the 1.5V Vengeance RAM Modules. Tried installing 2 of the RAM on slots 2 and 4 on their own. System Boots Fine.
Went into the BIOS and changed the voltage applied to the RAM modules from
AUTO to 1.575V. On AUTO it says is applying 1.5V to the 2x 4GB modules.
Installed the full 4x RAM on all slots... and the system just shuts down. Power cycling again.
What do you think here? Bad Motherboard? Can't think of anything else to try... totally stumped!
Thanks!

Official list of supported graphics cards for HP IPISB-CH2 motherboard

Hi,
Is there any official list of supported graphics cards for HP motherboards (specifically HP IPISB-CH2 (Chicago))?
I've been trying to upgrade my graphics for MSI GTX 960, but found out the MB's BIOS (v. 7.12) is incompatible and there's no BIOS upgrade available that would solve this problem. I have returned the 960 and wanted to try the GTX 660, but a few people told me they've also been having BIOS compatibility issues with this one.
The only info I found was that the MB "Supports PCI Express x16 graphics cards" (source: http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c02854392 ) - which is a very insufficient description (as the GTX 960 meets it and doesn't work anyway).

Hi,
There are three versions of the motherboard, in the official web site can see that detail parts, desktops using IPISB-CH2 (Chicago) from factory, and video cards are installed on them.
Another thing to keep in mind is that if the graph is more powerful requiring a power of more watts.
Examples:
http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?SearchText=H0C37EA
http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?type=PROD&SearchText=A5U33AAR

The best graphics card for Cinema Display on a Windows machi

I'm interested in getting an Apple 20" Apple Cinema Display for my Dell 2400 Dimension Windows machine.
Can anyone recommend an ideal graphics card for this machine. Also, are there any details for setting it up on a windows machine? Does Apple have documentation available?

Hi Marc, Im have the exact same specification machine dell 2400 and am looking to install a 20" studio display. I was just wondering if you suceeding in finding a suitable graphics card to support the monitor.
I tried a GeForce 5200 without sucess but Ive just been advised to try an Ati X300.
Thanks
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MSI P67A-C43 B3 Intel P67 - S/PDIF Coax Sound Issues

I recently put together a new PC with the MSI P67A-C43 B3 Intel P67 Mobo and am having some issues with the digital coax out to my digital 2.1 speakers. The speakers worked fine with my ancient SB card, so I know those aren't the issue. The issue I'm having is a clicking sound before and after sound almost as if the output is activating to play the sound and then deactivating when done. It stays on and plays fine when gaming, however it's very annoying when doing other windows tasks that involve sound as it's making the clicking sound before and after playing a sound. I opened a ticket with MSI support and they simply told me to RMA the board, but I don't feel like ripping everything apart and I really don't think it's a hardware defect. Has anyone else ran into this, or have any ideas on a fix?

This is a nasty little issue with the way Windows and Realtek work together with S/PDIF. I don't recall this issue with my sound card so I think it's probably Realtek that needs to fix this. The problem is that the digital S/PDIF port is closed after every access and it doesn't manage reopening the port correctly, it just opens when it's accessed again. This means that the port isn't ready in time to send any short sound transfers so they just make very ugly clicking noises. You can eliminate 99% of this by doing the following:
1. Open the control panel and select "Hardware and Sound"
2. Select "Change System Sounds"
3. Select the sound tab
4. Under the "Program Events:" list, select the following commands and set the "Sounds:" drop-down list to "None"
Under the "Windows" section:
Close Program
Maximize
Menu Command
Menu Pop-up
Minimize
Open Program
Program Error
Restore Down
Restore Up
Select
Show Toolbar Band
Under the "Windows Explorer" section:
Complete Navigation
Move Menu Item
Search Provided Discovered
Start Navigation
If you still hear some clicks then you may have some other programs that are sending short sound sequences to the port. Now that you've reminded me, I'm going to log a bug on this with MSI and anyone else with this problem should do the same. If they hear enough about it they might fix it the right way.
- D

Upgrading graphics card for gaming

Hi i've been gaming on my pc for a long time now and while it's been fun games have begun to upgrade and my fps has dropped down. I play world of warcraft and i run the lowest resolution 800x600 and the lowest graphics and i get like 20 fps so i want to upgrade my graphics card now, which means i will probably need to upgrade power supply i want it like under 100 USD i've been looking at the r7 240 graphics card but idk if it is compatible. If anyone could give me tips on if that card fits my case or if there is a better graphics card for around the same price would be great. Also which power supply would be needed for the card.
Computer specs http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c02628380&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=504...

Thank you for asking here first. You made a good decision.
What BIOS does your system have? If it's version 7, then your stuck with only access to legacy BIOS cards, not the newest UEFI BIOS cards that requires verision 8. Second, I'll let you input your system specs, and play around inputting various options at this gamer site. Look for the "Can I Run It" tab near the top. Registration is free. You can input various cards and see the performance levels.
Do not ignore this warning. Call the card maker and ask is that EXACT model card legacy or UEFI. The MSI GTX 750 cards do have a slider switch for legacy/UEFI. See this video. Take the time to make the calls. I am not promoting ANY card to you, especially because your suggesting a low budget. At minimum the recommended specs cost $300 plus.
I am a volunteer. I am not an HP employee.
To say THANK YOU, press the "thumbs up symbol" to render a KUDO. Please click Accept as Solution, if your problem is solved. You can render both Solution and KUDO.
The Law of Effect states that positive reinforcement increases the probability of a behavior being repeated. (B.F.Skinner). You toss me KUDO and/or Solution, and I perform better.
(2) HP DV7t i7 3160QM 2.3Ghz 8GB
HP m9200t E8400,Win7 Pro 32 bit. 4GB RAM, ASUS 550Ti 2GB, Rosewill 630W. 1T HD SATA 3Gb/s
Custom Asus P8P67, I7-2600k, 16GB RAM, WIN7 Pro 64bit, EVGA GTX660 2GB, 750W OCZ, 1T HD SATA 6Gb/s
Custom Asus P8Z77, I7-3770k, 16GB RAM, WIN7 Pro 64bit, EVGA GTX670 2GB, 750W OCZ, 1T HD SATA 6Gb/s
Both Customs use Rosewill Blackhawk case.
Printer -- HP OfficeJet Pro 8600 Plus

Graphics card for HP IQ527d

Hi
Would be very grateful for help here. I recently bought a PC game for my husband's birthday but he has not been able to play it on our HP IQ527d desktop (our operating system is Windows Vista).
A message appears to say that the video card does not meet minimum requirements for the game. My system does not seem to have a video card, I only have the Intel(R) 4 Series Internal Chipset.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a suitable graphics card (we don't play games very heavily) and how we can install it on our desktop?
Thanks very much.

Contact HP sales and see what is available.
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HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
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Suitable Graphics card for older msi P67A-C43 motherboard

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