Sun light affects the camera sensor?

Hi
I have a lumia 1520 and once driving, my phone's camera was exposed to sun light for about 5 hrs as i put it on my car's dashboard.
after then when i take a photo i feel my images got worse in quality and color.
Am i suspicious or sun light really affects the camera sensor?

Hi, AmirTofighi. Any chance you can attach sample photos? The sunlight should not affect the camera sensor AFAIK. However, we like to further check on this since you have laid the scenario.
BTW, if this is using the built-in camera app, try using lens app and compare. Also, if you have a friend who is using the same model of the device, it would not hurt to check and compare the images taken on both devices.
Hope to hear from you soon. :-)

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Iphone screen is basically black, but sound still works aswell as the light beside the camera

Hi. I have an iphone 4s and the screen is barely readable. it is nearly completely black. The light beside the camera seems to come on every time that I turn on the phone but yet the screen doesn't seem to come on. i have restored the iphone and done everything it says in other forums but yet nothing is working. it is on the set up screen ready to set up as a new iphone but it is so hard to see everything that i cannot set it up. im planning on bringing it back to vodafone tomorrow to see if they can do anything. Any suggestions on what to do?

Sounds like it may be a hardware issue.
Did the issue happen over time or did something cause it (dropped it, water, etc.)

How does capturing affect the camera?

I only ask because I know a lot of people use decks instead of their primary cameras. And I know its a major concern when buying used equipment to ask if its ever been used as a deck. Lastly, if it does negatively affect the camera; If I shoot something in a mode that my deck doesnt support (eg - 24p on a dvx or xl2 and then use an oldddd canon as a deck) will it capture correctly into the editor? Thanks.

IMO most cameras suffer from little use rather than too much. Regularly exercising your cam is a good thing.
If you are capturing all day every day then a purpose built deck would be the better option.
If I shoot something in a mode that my deck doesnt support (eg - 24p on a dvx or xl2 and then >use an oldddd canon as a deck) will it capture correctly into the editor?
I never tried what you ask but with other formats it's a simple transfer of 0s &1s, so I'd imagine it will work fine as long as tape fits.
Al

Hi everyone,have you noticed that there is kind of green light inside the camera even if the camera turns off? It it normal? Thanks!

Hi everyone,have you noticed that there is kind of green light inside the camera even if the camera turns off? It it normal? Thanks!

I assume you mean green reflection from the camera?
thats the AR coating on the lens.

In the Sun Seeker app, the camera wont start in 3d view?

When the Sun Seeker app is turned on and 3d view is selected the camera wont turn on. all I see is a orange "ether" that holds the data for the sun path. I find nothing in the settings that would affect this as a setting.

double post:
http://forums.sun.com/thread.jspa?threadID=5405467&messageID=10805871#10805871
You will not get more help by reposting the same question. Do as I suggested the last time: post the content of the server log. Is it so much effort to figure out where this file is and copy paste the content here?

Bad pixels in the camera sensor

I've got an iPhone 4S, 64GB (Verizon) and noticed a few bad pixels during video playback on our 42" TV (played back via the HDMI adapter). It's something that most people would not notice, including my wife as she watched the video with me, but I'm a long time video/photo enthusiast and imperfections like that stand out to me like a pimple on an otherwise perfect looking face.
After several test videos and even photos, I am able to reproduce this pixel anomaly each and every time. There are 3 pixels, just slightly to the left of the center, that show up incorrectly in kind of an obtuse triangular formation. Two of them favor white, the third is dark. It's not something that is noticeable on the iPhone 4S screen because not all of the pixels are shown, but on a monitor that can render *all* pixels of 1080 HD video playback they show up.
I'm certain it's not dust as I've inspected and gently cleaned the camera window, not to mention even a small spec of dust would not show up as a single pixel (or in this case, what appears to be two pixels right on top of each other for each of the problem pixels). The anomaly shows up when lighter colors/gradients are present in that region of the screen. Darker colors do not reveal the bad pixels. Just to be clear - it's NOT a screen display issue - the pixels are noticeable on our 42" TV during playback, and also on my Mac monitor and iPad screen (ONLY when zoomed in viewing on my iPad, which is possible during playback of video using the stock photo app). The bad pixels jump around a bit because of the digital image stabilization (that should make sense to the more hard core video enthusiasts), which further supports it is a capture issue, not a video coding problem or anything like that. The issue is either with the image sensor itself, or the hardware's processing there of.
My question - has anyone else observed similar behavior? If so, is there something you're aware that can be done to correct it? This is my second iPhone 4S, the first being a perfectly-functioning 32 GB model (which did not have this issue) that I returned in favor of a 64 GB model because I was burning through space too quickly.
I'm probably going to have to go back and try to explain this to the good folks at the local Apple Store, and try to get a replacement unit, but I'm not looking forward to having to show video samples and point out three teeny little dots that most people won't even notice, but drive me crazy (especially after dropping $400 plus tax and a two-year commitment). A huge selling point of my iPhone 4S was of course, its superior photo and video capabilities. I understand they're not pro quality, but there shouldn't be any consistent pixel issues like this going on.
Sorry for the long post, but I'd appreciate some feedback, suggestions, input. Thanks.

pogster wrote:
The problem with this type of communication is what you are describing and what I think you are describing can sometimes be different so my apologiies in that regard.
No worries. I agree - text-only communication can be a rather clunky experience in trying to convey complex issues without any visual or (2-way live) verbal means. I was a bit worried about being too wordy in an already wordy post and feared that it might just be ignored if it was too long. Again - I appreciate your chiming in. You seem very knowledgable in digital photography, which is exactly what I was hoping to find.
Given that my description of "bad pixels" is a bit sloppy for what is really going on, I think you understand what I mean in my usage of those words.
To answer your question, the offending pixels, or very, very small little dots of imperfections, are present in both video playback and in still photos. After shooting several test videos against neutral and textured backgrounds to see what kind of results I'd get in the appearance of the bad pixels, I also took several stills in "burst mode" using an app called "Camera-" against a wood grain background, as the woodgrain background offered the most visible and consistent view of the blemishes. In motion video, the dots (bad pixels) are pretty easy to see on a large display, or when zoomed in during playback on my iPad 2's screen. In stills, it was kind of tricky to identify them, because without the persistent motion of the background, the bad pixels almost blended in as random image noise. I was however, able to identity with certainty the same bad pixels in most of the stills. Additionally, at the higher resolution of the stills, the offending pixels almost don't even need masking or removal with photo editing software. Like I said - without the constant visible background motion to make them stand out as irregularities, or the ability to do a frame-by-frame analysis (which I can do easier with the video file using an app called VideoPix), the bad pixels are more difficult to identify.
The importance in identifying the bad pixels in stills, even though they are practically not noticeable, is that it can now be determined that the bad pixels are not the result of some kind of video coding glitch, but rather present in the hardware of the device itself - either as a defective image sensor, or defective hardware that translates the data from the image sensor into the pixels utilized by the software for photos and video.
As part of the tests I ran, I captured video with an app called KingCamera, and it, too, produced the same results. KingCamera also has an option for "locking" of the auto white balance and brightness, loosely similar to setting those manually on a higher-end, dedicated camera. Even locking the white balance and brightness, the pad pixels were present, so the potential for the issue being caused by an anomaly in the software's auto-settings management were put to rest.
In regard to being able to correct the bad pixels in stills - yep, easily done. BUT, I shouldn't need to. In terms of correcting them during video playback, that *is* actually something I could probably work out a method of doing. I used to dable in production videos that involved complex imaging filters, multiple composite video layers, and automated ways of identifying specific colors, contrast points, and patterns within images/video streams and altering them (such as cleaning up sloppy image mattes or locking in on visual patterns for the application of various video effects). Again, this is something I *shouldn't* need to do.
The still photo and video capabilities on the iPhone 4S are outstanding, in contrast to what other similar existing devices offer (arguably better than or almost as good as the best competitor offerings, depending), but the quality is not DSLR, and like I said - I'm not expecting it to be. I do expect however, and I don't think it is unreasonable to, image rendering without persistent "bad pixels" showing - even if I am only in the 1% of people who are likely to notice such image defects. They are, in fact, defects, and not "normal operation for a device of this caliber".
I was hoping there might be some trick to correct them, but I kind of figured there would not be. It seemed smart to at least reach out and see what other people may know that I might be missing. Again, I regret terribly my poor decision to return my perfectly-functioning 32 GB iPhone 4s for the 64 GB model. Knowing a little about the very intricate technologies that make these things seem "magical", I understand that there are dozens or even hundreds of very complex little components that are mostly stamped out on an assembly line of robot fabrication means, then assembled, at least in part, by humans in a factory who are required to pump out x number of these things in short periods of time. I worried about the possibility of trading in my perfectly functional device for something that may be just a tad less perfect - just because of the odds. My bad for not following my natural instincts on this one. I just didn't want to have to constantly be managing space on my device. I failed to think through my initial choice of the 32 GB model in regard to my trigger-happy photo/video nature. The cumulative files are much larger on this device than I was initially expecting (because I was just too excited to get my hands on one on October 14 and failed to do enough research and calculations). Days into owning my 32 GB 4S, I was already spending time, almost daily, re-rendering videos at 720 and 580 through iMovie, being somewhat irritated about having to replace the original videos with reduced resolution versions just to keep the videos live on my iPhone (sometimes archiving the originals on my Mac first). Anyway - enough of my rambling.
Thank you again for your input, pogster. If you have any other ideas, please share. I'm pretty sure I know what I have to do to feel happy with my investment, though. I'm just not looking forward to complaining about 3 bad pixels to a Genius Bar employee who's probably going to look at me like I'm one of those "never happy with..." people. Three bad pixels that I won't even be able to show ON the actual iPhone itself, but rather bring my iPad 2 and show zoomed-in playback of the video footage.
Message was edited by: ascii-T - fixed type-o

Will the iPhone case affects the camera and quality of photos?

I really want to know if the case in the iPhones might affect the quality of the photo. Thus, what is the best case that suits best for the iPhone 5s?

no they will not its about how you take photo and sometimes low lighting can also be the problem andd theres really no best case but my oppion is the best cases are the thick rubber cases so it will stick to your pants if your lets say sitting down and the thickness will add protection to falls

Why no flash or light with the camera?

Does anyone know why Apple seemingly refuses to put a flash/camera light on the iPhone? I would imagine that's a pretty easy add on and would really help with low light photography. The Night Camera app helps a little, but for the most part is a joke. Are they just spoon feeding us camera capabilities one year at a time and maybe we'll see it next go round? I'm holding out for the iLaser (a laser pointer app that emits a visible beam of light similar to a StarWars light saber)!
Rodeo

I also find it baffling that the indicators for num lock and caps lock can't be controlled independently.
Lenovo only allows you to either sown the indicator briefly or always on for both buttons.
However, most people always have caps lock off and num lock on and only want to see when caps lock is activated.
Lenovo's settings don't allow for having say, the num lock icon show briefly when activated AND the caps lock icon to always show when activated.
Having the LEDs in the keys would solve this issue and get rid of the annoying on-screen indicators.

I have an Intel iMac and the green light for the camera will NOT shut off.

I am NOT running any programs that have any use for the camera to be on. No Skype, nor facetime nor instant messengers etc so , why won't it shut off? How do I get it to go off?

Try restarting your Mac.
And help here > How to Troubleshoot iSight

Dust bunnies on the cam sensor. Can't find a Clone Tool in Aperture....??

My Canon 5D takes incredible shots, but I often have to deal with some "Dust Bunnies", when shooting in very arid/windy locations. I can not locate a tool in Aperture that allows me to clone these out. Does a Clone tool exist?

Yes, the spot is too uniform and both spot and patch are very hard edged ... have to work the softness and radius to get a reasonable result. BTW, too many spot/patches really make Aperture crawl and give the JPG export version the heabie jeabies (blank areas of the image apart from the patches)on my Quad.

Does anyone know the viewing angle of iPad mini's camera sensor?

I've read the iPad mini's spec and still can't find the width/height of the camera sensor.
I only know its focal length(3.3 mm).
If anyone can tell me about the camera sensor's width/height, I can figure out the viewing angle.
I would be grateful for any help you can provide.

I believe that is the information you was looking for: http://www.boinx.com/chronicles/2013/3/22/field-of-view-fov-of-cameras-in-ios-de vices/
Remember: they measured the horizontal angle in degree in landscape mode, and the FOV on very compact camera should be affected ( a little bit ) by the autofocus.
Bye, Stefano

Sony Z1 Compact... why is the camera so poor? Comparison shots within.

The Good...
I picked up a Sony Z1 Compact the other day, and am so far absolutely in love woth it. The speed and responsiveness are fantastic, the build quality rivals that of the iPhone, and the size is just perfection.
The Bad...
But... I am VERY dissappointed with the camera and its poor performance. 80% of the photos I take with my phone are while on a night out with friends, usually in bars or other more dimly lit places than broad daylight. In Auto mode, photos taken in the average pub lightning are unuseable,m and look so artifical as to completely destroy any detail in the faces of the people I snap. I have also experimented with manual settings, but still the quakity is just plain poor. In fact, mny Samsung Galaxy S III blows it out of the water in this regard, images in similar conditions are much superior.
The Ugly...
So why is this camera, a camera that uses what is theoretically a high-quality imaging unit used by point and shoot cameras, so bad in everything except broad daylight?
The answer according to not only my observations, but the observations of many professional websites who reviewed the Z1 series, is seems to be that Sony are purposefully and inexplicably messing with the final images by forcing huge amounts of processing on them. This takes a natural image, messes with the colours and tone, and then proceeds to crush any detail.
Here are some samples of what I mean, taken with Superior Auto:
Sample 1: Z1 Compact
A close-up portrait shot...
Look at how artificial that image looks... it's like someone applied a strange kind of gaussian blur tool in photoshop.
Sample 2 - Z1 Compact
A group photo...
Here again, in what was one of the better photos that I took, we see the find detail is very poor.. at full size it looks horrible pixellated, and the colours severely washed out. The blacks are also severely crushed.
Sample 3 - Z1 Compact
Here is a shot that should in theory be detailed and natural looking. A guy near a wall in better light, with the camera held perfectly still.
Again, a horrible image... bad detail, visible artifacting, washed out colours.
Sample 4 - Z1 Compact
In addition, using the flash causes severe light pollution on the final image, so much so that the bottom half of the photo I take has a very noticeable purpley bluish haze on it.
Look at the level of bleed entering the scene from the flash below the lens. And look at the dreadful overall image quality... the detail is simply shockingly bad. Like a camera phone from years ago.
Samsung Galaxy S III Comparisons...
And here we have some comparison photos with a Samsung SIII, also taken in a dimply lit pub:
Sample 1 - Samsung Galaxy S III
Look at the difference... detail is preserved, the image appears natural, and colour tones are reasonably natural. It's a great shot.
Sample 2 - Samsung Galaxy S III
Again, here we see that the photo is much cleaner... flash lights up the subjkects as well as can be expected considering the size and power, and the colours and detail are preserved, including in the surrounding environment where the coloured lights at the top are also visible.
Sample 3 . Samsung Galaxy S III
And finally, a close-up portrai-style shot...
Again, not the easiest of conditions for a phont, but overall detail is good, the face is clearly visible, and the photo looks clean and detailed as you could hope for in the circumstances.
WINNER: SAMSUNG GALAXY S III
Conclusion...
Sorry Sony, but this level of imaging is just not acceptable on a premium device with such a high spec sensor in it. I have had better results fron devices that are 2-3 years old. Oh yes, and that's including the video camera mode which has no 24p or 60p options... come on Sony, there is a Snapdragon 800 SOC in this phone, use it.
I really hope you are going to take a serious look at this and fix it.

Wow thanks guys... it seems a LOT of people have noticed this issue. I also saw one guy with exactly the same problem as me with the flash http://www.android-hilfe.de/7156334-post40.html
The question is: how on earth did none of the Sony designers see this issue? It seems to me that someone must have seen it, but too late in the design process, so they just kept it like this and are going to pretend ignorance.
I just did the same test as inside-handy.de where I cover the flash completely and then take a picture, and the light bleeds very badly into the lens, so I guess my phone is badly affected.
I do not expect such a badly designed camera and flash system on such a premium device, and we cannot be expected to live with such a fatal flaw in a phone which is marketed as a pure camera phone.
EDIT - It seems the press are now aware and will be following this up... hopefully Sony will make a response soon when they see the overwhelming evidence http://www.inside-handy.de/news/30330-led-erzeugt-farbiges-leuchten-auf-bildern-sony-xperia-z1-compa...

C6-01 main camera sensor size?

Hi all,
Don't know if this is on the right place, but here we go...
I've been googling for the C6-01 main camera sensor size and I didn't found the answser anywhere. That spec is not published on Nokia site, where one can only know that the sensor resolution is 2448 x 3264 pixels (8 Mpixels) and that the lenses are F2.8. But in terms of photography, it's useless to know that without knowing the size of the camera sensor.
I've found somewhere that the N8 main camera sensor is 1/1.83", which makes it a better sensor then the sensor of most average compact digital cameras, which have a 1/2.3" sensor. But that's the N8...
Cheers.

Thanks Puigchild, but I already knew that.
What is missing is the information of the size of the camera CCD sensor. When it comes to digital cameras, that's a very important info, since the bigger the sensor, the better is the camera. Bigger sensors allow more light to hit the sensor, which is obviously a good thing.
Most compact digital cameras (the so called 'point-and-shoot') have 1/2.3" sensors. Some new advanced compact cameras have 1/1.7", 1/1.8" sensors.
What I'm trying to figure out is why Nokia has never revealed the size of its smarphone's camera sensors. Nokia phones are known for their good camera phones. Revealing the sensor size would therefore be a good marketing strategy. For instance, as I said before, I read somewhere that N8 has a 1/1.83" sensor, and that's why its camera is better than most poin-and-shoot.
Regards,

Dust on camera sensor, internally.

So I recenlty got my Z10 it[s been working fine. I've took it apart(back casing only) a few times to insert the abttery, SIMs A Battery removal and reinsert ,and in the process some how within the last few days a tiny speck of dirt/dust has gotten into the camera sensor. The black speck isn't on the screen and appears if you take a photo of something/using the camera app. It's not big just a tiny speck of dust/dirt. I've tried cleaning the outer casing and removig the back case and giving the camera section a light clean with a microfibre cloth but it still appears. If i take a phto of a white/light setting the spec is there, and stays in the same photo location when moving the photo around the screen or editing it.
How can i remedy this, should I take the z10 apart to be able to access the sensor and remove the particle with a microfibre cloth?

I do not believe you can clean the sensor. If there is dust on it and the Phone was not opened or damaged Apple will replace it if the damage is relevant, if not you will need to reach an Agreement with Apple people.
iPhone 5 should be in warranty also after Xmas... wait.

IPhone 5 dust on camera sensor

Hey, there are dust particles on the camera sensor on my iPhone 5. This is very noticable on any photos and videos i take. Is there an easy fix to this or will i have to take it to the apple store? I would prefer to avoid the apple store this time of the year.

I do not believe you can clean the sensor. If there is dust on it and the Phone was not opened or damaged Apple will replace it if the damage is relevant, if not you will need to reach an Agreement with Apple people.
iPhone 5 should be in warranty also after Xmas... wait.

Sun light affects the camera sensor?

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