Swapping display boards btw G5s

Hi again,
i have 2 G5s, and the one not running has the board for double display. want to swap boards btw the two G5s so I can use both displays. Will i have to do any software update, anything?
thanks so much (again
strawb

If the two G5s use the same graphics technology (AGP, PCI Express) then you will not need any software updates.

Similar Messages

Swapping Logic Board???

Hello Everyone
I am looking at a 600Mhz Logic Board from an iMac g3 DV I found on eBay for my 350Mhz iMac G3. Is it possible to swap them? Also, is there any documentation from Apple or somewhere on the internet that explains the process of swapping logic boards on an iMac? I just installed Tiger on my old iMac G3 and believe it or not is running pretty smoothly however it could obviously stand for an upgrade.
Thanks, Kevin

I think your 350 can go as high as 450 or maybe 500. Above that the processor is located differently and wouldn't aline with the heat-sink. I have swapped out a 350 with a 400 without issues.
Rick

Swapped displays- now won't boot

Thanks in advance for any help provided with this:
I swapped displays between two white macbooks (one was cracked). Now the macbook with the new screen can only just boot past the chime and the apple logo and then- kernel panic! - "you need to restart your computer........" big long error message OR the BSOD.
Tried safe mode, it's no better.
Booting in verbose mode i see the error "GFX0: family specific matching fails" and "display: family specific matching fails"
Is there a way to make the macbook happy with the new display?
Thanks again.

Personally, I'd just save whatever you need from that hard drive, then wipe it clean and reinstall whatever OS you deem fit.
The hardware between these two machines is *way* too different. Even if you get the drive to boot in the Z60m, it will never work properly and might crash on you at any given point.
I fully understand that a lot of people view "fresh" installs to be a pain, but in this particular case that's the only way you'll have a stable system.
Good luck.
Cheers,
George
In daily use: R60F, R500F, T61, T410
Collecting dust: T60
Enjoying retirement: A31p, T42p,
Non-ThinkPads: Panasonic CF-31 & CF-52, HP 8760W
Starting Thursday, 08/14/2014 I'll be away from the forums until further notice. Please do NOT send private messages since I won't be able to read them. Thank you.

Swapping circuit boards for an internal hard drive

My story may be a bit long and roundabout, so please try and bear with me as I explain.
My PowerMac G5 is 4.5 years old and over the past few months, the DVD and my secondary internal hard drive, both the originals that came with my computer, have been slowly dying. I finally replaced the DVD drive the other day and was little by little copying the data off my secondary internal drive before it completely failed. One thing that seemed to help the internal drive run more smooth was unplugging the power cable and plugging it back in. A worker at an Apple store's Genius Bar also suggested swapping each internal drive to the bay that the other was originally in, to see if that helped at all.
Anyways, in the end, the drive was giving me so much trouble and I had unplugged/plugged the power cable so many times that eventually the part of the circuit board that holds the pin connectors straight broke off, so now I had no way to get my data off the slowly failing drive. Another visit to the Genius Bar and I was told that the drive was as good as done, but not wanting to believe that the majority of my film projects were gone forever, I contacted a store across the street from my old NYU dorm called Digital Society. They told me that the circuit board on the drive needed to be replaced and that the new board had to be taken from an identical drive. I soon realized that the primary/system drive of my G5 was in fact identical. So, after running Time Machine, purchasing new primary and secondary internal drives, re-installing the OS and doing a Time Machine restore - which was flawless - I took my two drives back to Digital Society where they swapped the circuit boards rather quickly.
Now that I'm back home, I was easily able to recover all my data from my failing drive... only after having its circuit board replaced, the drive is showing no signs whatsoever of the read/write difficulties and failures that it had been showing prior to the circuit board swap, which leads me to a few questions
a) Was it really the drive that had a problem, or the circuit board itself? Is there anywhere I could buy just a circuit board without having to buy a new drive just to get a circuit board? The drives in question are 400 gig Hitachi Deskstar, model #HDS724040KLSA80. While I'm not entirely sure the once failing drive should be trusted again, my old system drive - which now has a busted circuit board on it - still works perfectly fine.
b) If I'm able to get a new circuit board, how easy is it to replace myself? The guy at Digital Society did it very quickly and for a price of $120. Are there any video tutorials?
Thanks!

Lot's of good question Will,
Hard drives are not what they used to be, if your work is important I'd replace them every 3 years & have 2 backups in the meantime.
I doubt you can get the circuit boards separate without buying a while questionable drive.
If I'm able to get a new circuit board, how easy is it to replace myself? The guy at Digital Society did it very quickly and for a price of $120.
1 TB 3 year warranty $99...
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Samsung/HD103SJ/
1 TB 7 year warranty...
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Samsung/HE103UJ/
More cheaper drives...
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/3.5-SerialATA/WesternDigitalCaviar

Swapping mother boards for Satellite A30

I am in North america. I have a Satellite A30 laptop model number PSA30C-00YS5
and i was wondering if i could swap the mother board for a UK origin computer. Model number PSA33E-87YX4-EN

Hi
Well, cant give you a proper answer because Im not 100% sure if the other mainboard has the same measures. I have found some informtions about this both units and it seems that there are a little bit different.
Check these sites for comparing:
http://www.toshiba.ca/web/product.grp?section=1&group=223&product=2331
http://uk.computers.toshiba-europe.com/cgi-bin/ToshibaCSG/selected_product_option.jsp?service=UK&ACTION=PRIN T_WITH_BACK&PRODUCT_ID=84579&DISC_MODEL=0
Usually you should always use the mainboard which is especially designed for your unit but if you want to have more detailed informations you should contact the ASP (service partner)
Best regards

Occasional trouble with hot-swapping displays

Hi there,
has anyone here ever experienced problems when hot-swapping the display of your Intel mac mini?
I sometimes disconnect my LCD-Display to use my PAL TV as output device. Most of the time it works fine, but sometimes, when I pull the Plug of my TV-DVI-Adapter, my Mac suddenly REBOOTS. Or the screen stays black when I reconnect a display.
Any suggestions?

Boece's comments are appropriate in this situation - the display is not really intended to be hot-swappable, and as there are voltages involved and the interface isn't buffered, it's not difficult to imagine potential issues swapping connectors, particularly if the display(s) concerned are powered at the time along with the mini.
Best advice is don't do it. If you absolutely must, try with the display devices powered off. If you otherwise continue to swap connectors in this way, it's probable that you will continue to experience the same results!
You might find a video switch to be a less problematic solution.

IPod Classic album artwork gone in new iTunes display board as of 1 Dec 2012

Now that I installed the new iTunes software and connect my iPod Classic the album artwork display in the bottom left corner has disappeared! There are other new features on this new iTunes layout that annoy me!
Apple...please go back to your previous iTunes layout and get my album artwork back.
My iPod is fine, there is nothing wrong with my iPod, just iTunes and their ridiculous change! I uninstalled and re-installed iTunes to no avail.
And NO, I DO NOT use the apple iTunes store for anything, just use iTunes to connect to my iPod Classic, that's all, nothing further!
So don't go trying to sell me something on the iTunes store! NOT INTERESTED!
Why do you people tend to make things more difficult after I finally figured out your last iTunes layout?!
Simple guy non-computer geek here, just your average all-American Joe!
Can someone out there assist? Any way I can return to the previous version? This new version bites! Thanks much!

*Why is artwork not showing on my iPod when it's there in iTunes?*
iTunes will display a cover in many of it's views provided at least one track from the album has embedded artwork. The iPod appears to load only the artwork from track one to create the cover flow and album views which means that it can sometimes fail to display art for albums even when you can see the art in iTunes. Further, when tracks are played on the iPod, artwork is displayed if and only if it exists in the currently playing track, so track one may show art while track two does not.
*How to find tracks without artwork*
To find all the tracks without artwork so that you can update them you can try http://www.stum.de/itunes-find-tracks-without-artwork/ for Windows or http://dougscripts.com/itunes/scripts/ss.php?sp=trackswithoutartwork for Macs. Use Google, Amazon, Discogs etc. to locate relevant images. Ideally these should be square, 320x320 pixels or above and borderless to give the best results in the various menus. If you have artwork for some tracks of an album, but not others, find the album in the main music folder, select a track with artwork, right-click (Option-Click for Macs) on the art & click copy, then select all the tracks of the album, use CTRL-I or Command-I to *Get Info* and then paste the image into the artwork box.
I say 320x320 because I believe (from using TouchCopy) that it's the size used in the iPod cache so if you're going to crop or resize you might as well work to that size. Otherwise 200x200 is probably good enough. iTunes store art seems to be generally 600x600.
*Rebuild artwork cache*
Sometimes the artwork cache becomes corrupt and fails to show correct artwork, even when this is properly set up in iTunes. To rebuild the artwork cache, connect your iPod to iTunes. Locate the iPod in the Sources pane on the left-hand side, then select the Music tab. Remove the tick from *Display album artwork on your iPod*, sync the iPod, reselect the option & sync again.
tt2

Swapping Logic Boards

I bought a G5 Logic Board off of eBay and am having a bit of difficulty booting up.
I can get into Open Firmware, the boot selection screen, and boot up Apple Hardware Test and Apple Service Diagnostics, but not OS X or the installer. The board passes a quick test in AHT. In ASD, when I try to run a thermal calibration, I am told something is wrong with CPU 0's EEPROM. Most tests in ASD pass as well (ethernet failed, but I didn't plug in a cable).
What also concerns me is that the Firmware on the board is 5.1.5 f0, which seems to be for uniprocessor G5 machines. Everything tells me I only have 1 CPU. AHT tells me that the CPU is 1.152GHz, when it's a 2GHz CPU. The board has two CPU slots.
My original board has the part number 630-4848 on it. The new board says 630-6395.
Any ideas as to what's going on? Did I get the wrong board?

Dear Squirrel2,
Yes, you really need exactly the same board you're replacing. The board is, I suppose, trimmed for the 1,8 GHz duo processor G5 (otherwise you wouldn't be able to connect both processors), therefore the firmware doesn't 'know' the 2 GHz processors and is, as reported in your first input, sabotaging other processes at the same time.
Other question before you're 'throwing more water into the sea', as we say over here: are you sure both your processors were fine before you replaced the logic board?
Only the late 2005 model is more easy: only two different boards, one for both single dualcore versions and a second for the quadcore.
Success finding the right (vintage) part and best regards,
Robbert

Keynote won't swap displays

when using keynote, by macbook pro won't show presenter notes but the T.V. does
help??

Okay, so I solved my own problem. :-) I was looking at Keynote preferences under the "Presenter Display" section, but I never looked at the "Slideshow" section. Turns out the settings got changed around on the "Present using Primary Display" and "Secondary Display" setting. Once I got them fiddled around correctly, it worked.
I have to say that having those settings in one section and the "Use alternate display to view presenter information" in another section makes it easy to overlook.

Swapping mother boards

Since my 450 MHz video board died, I have parts I can use in other iMacs. I have one at work that the ethernet port was zapped.
Can I put a 450 MHz mother board in an older 400 MHz SE machine?
Thanks

Take a look back at your other topic. I suggested you try pressing the PMU reset button on the motherboard, before giving up...
Actually, I'll just copy/paste the info here:
One last thing to try before you take it apart.
Try resetting the PMU. It's like resetting the PRAM, but more extreme. Sometimes it works, if the problem is not the video board. I think it may not be the video board, because that problem usually starts with periodic shutdowns and the "snapping" sound before it gets to a point of not starting at all.
I found this web page with clear instructions. Pay attention to the part about not pressing it more than once.
http://mrjcd.com/junk/PMU.jpg
Message was edited by: Kenichi Watanabe

Problem swapping Display Assembly on HP Pavilion dv6000

I have an HP Pavilion dv6000, Windows Vista. It has a stuck pixel producing a red line on my screen. Fortunately, I have another dv6000 with a bad motherboard that I can cannibalize for parts. Unfortunately, I am stuck on trying to remove the Display Assembly.
Specifically, in the Maintenance and Service Guide, on page 5-34, the book says to remove the two screws holding the display assembly. The screws are in the corner, so I removed all four screws. However, the display assembly will not budge from the computer. Also, on page 5-35, the book says to disconnect the display cable. I cannot figure out how to do that. It will not budge. Further, it says to remove the microphone cable. The only other cable that is next to the display cable is the cable that was connected to the switch cover.
Can someone give me some guidance on this? I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

Hi:
1. Install this driver for the coprocessor. If it does not install the driver automatically, manually install it as follows:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareDownloadIndex?softwareitem=ob-55781-1&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&...
Go to the device manager and click on the coprocessor needing the driver. Click on the driver tab. Click on Update Driver.
Select the browse my computer for driver software option and browse to the driver folder that was created when you ran the file. That folder will be located in C:\SWSetup\sp37730.
Make sure the Include Subfolders box is checked and the driver should install. Then reboot.
2 & 3. Install this driver for the base system devices (card reader).
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareDownloadIndex?softwareitem=ob-55777-1&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&...
4. No such thing. All BIOS flashes must be run in Windows and only with the supported operating system (Vista).
If you make any attempt to flash the BIOS when running any other operating system but Vista, you can take your notebook straight to the trash bin.
5. Your notebook is not supported by HP for W7, W8 or W8.1, so I imagine there is a driver problem of some kind or another with which I would not be able to help you with as there is probably no solution to it.
You can try manually installing the Vista graphics driver from your notebook's support page in the remote chance that may get the hdmi to work properly.
6. Video adapter upgrades can't be done.

2009 Mac Pro 8-core shut off randomly, won't restart. Swapped processor board and HDD's into my other tower. Started fine and worked for about 10 minutes, then same thing. Powered off by itself and won't restart.

Both towers are 2009 models, one is 8-core, the other 4. I figured the problem was with the power supply, so I just stuck the guts from the 8-core into the 4-core. It booted up with no issues at all, didn't require any updates or anything. Firefox even restored my tabs. But after about 5-10 minutes, the machine shut off at random and won't start back up. The DIAG LED lights up one LED yellow when pressed, labelled "5V STBY". Same LED on both boards.
Any ideas? I've got two really expensive paper weights at the moment, and my AppleCare plan expired 3 months ago.

Dust VAC for dust bunnies
real issue can be thermal paste or lack or needing redone
dust clings to any ram or electronics or inside psu and graphic cards
motherboards both support dual processor?
thermal sensor readings from Hardware Monitor would be nice
unplugged is not enough to reset the SMC, power on button also, and every cableetc disconnected
try with one dimm too

Swapping Powerbook Displays

Hi all, my Powerbook 1.5 Ghz computer's logic board died, so I got a new Powerbook (1.67 Ghz). However the new Powerbook's display isn't in as good of a shape as my old one — there are a couple slightly noticeable darkish "spots" on it.
Now, I'm think of swapping displays - does anyone know if there might be a compatibility issue? My original PB is from the 1.33/1.5 family, and the newer 1.67 PB is from the 1.5/1.67 family. It's not the dual layer/faster RAM version, just the one with the speed bump, brighter display, brighter lighted keyboard, built-in airport, and BT 2.0. Btw, both are 15"
Thanks!
Message was edited by: Gene Park

What resolution is the old powerbook's display? If it's not 1440x960, the new screen won't work as far as I know.

Slot-loading DV Display/HardDrive seize up

I am posting a conversation I have been having with a discussion board user, as I think it will be useful for others
On Fri, Feb 18, 2011 at 4:46 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Hi Richard:
I've just been reading an exchange you had with someone named Graham in the UK about his iMac going black and becoming unresponsive. After a series of exchanges, you finished up (I think) with:
That can be a possibility. If it was the CPU temp that's causing this the entire logic board would have to have come loose or perhaps the conductive paste has dried out/failed, unlikely.
So upshot. In my experience the part that fails in these G3 iMacs is the PAV (The board you see when you look down from the top it's under the CRT and drives the monitor section. The logic board derives power from the PAV via down converter).
The shutting down is a classic symptom and the most irritating.
Others: No start - power light blinks or turns amber, video gets wonky - color shifts or size variations, sparks arcing sound, native screen is dark but external monitor works fine (not on option on your 350, no external spigot). This is why I've got 7 or so iMac G3s in my basement. Mostly 350s since I was given around 20 of them and I repaired and donated most into the inner city. The ones left have PAV problems.
Wacky upgrade options:
I'm especially interested because here you mentioned the other main symptom I've noticed in my own version of the same problem: the "arcing sound" which I've been hearing almost from the start of my issues. Everything else almost mirrors his, except the time for the symptoms to kick in has reduced to less than 10 minutes.
I thought it might be the drive, so I've tried 2 different hd's, and it happens with both, and I tried running the iMac (400jhz slot loading) just off of CD, and it shut down then too!
Obviously, I've been inside the machine to replace the drives, with my teenage daughter's help (my eyes aren't so hot). I'm going to check for this OS X temperature software and see what it tells me. I did run a RAM checker, and it said it was all fine, so at least I know it's not that. I tried to get a version of Apple Hardware Checker for it (or whatever it's called) but it said the iMac DV would not run the software.
Do you still have those . . . PVA's? This machine is a perfect print server and backup hd and work stereo, and we have enjoyed tinkering with her in the past. If it wasn't TOO complex, I'd like to give it a try. I showed my daughter how to solder a battery cable onto a tester circuit board, so if that's the kind of thing we'd need to do, I'm game.
Let me know, and I'm looking for a temperature checker right now. Oh yea, and Tricia Helfer DOES look pretty hot.
Carey
On 18-Feb-11, at 8:37 PM, spudnuty wrote:
Hi Cary,
the other main symptom I've noticed in my own version of the same problem: the "arcing sound" which I've been hearing almost from the start of my issues.
That arcing sound is almost always the flyback transformer. That is on the PAV board which is basically the entire upper half of the computer. Here's a site in England where you can download the Service Manual for your machine.
http://www.macmanuals.co.uk/
So since you have a 400 MHz machine it's one of the more desirable machines since it has firewire. 400 to 700 had them. As I mentioned in my post I would pull the logic board and transfer it to a working 350. If you look in the manual swapping the board is simple. Then again around Chicago these G3 iMacs are sold for $25 or less. Don't know the situation where you are.
I used to repair these but they've become so cheap that the board swap is now my chosen path.
Richard
On Sat, Feb 19, 2011 at 12:22 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Richard:
I guess this shhould've been on the discussion board so others could see it, but I'll just ask one more thing before looking into the manual:
Remember, I've swapped a harddrive and memory, but board changing is something I've never tried before:
So, are you saying that the PAv that might be creating these issues, being such a large part of the computer, should just be abandoned, and the logic board swapped into a 350 because of it's simplicity? Does the logic board contain the 400 mhz processor and firewire hookup, or would those be left behind on the 400 iMac's PAV board?
I'm looking at the manual, and you're right, pulling the logic board does look pretty simple, but I haven't found the answer to the above question yet, so I'll send it to you.
I emailed this to you because the original post a over a year old, and I wasn't sure you'd still be watching the discussion boards. Next time, I'll just 'trust to the boards', though I've only received 2/5 answers through it over the years.
Thanks again.
Carey
On 19-Feb-11, at 6:17 PM, spudnuty wrote:
Carey,
So look at the pic I enclose. It's from the service manual.
So you've had the machine apart to this point, from here it's just the removal of the 10 screws to remove the logic board and down converter. They plug into the upper part via a couple of connectors. There could be a few plastic rivets that tie the board to the divider panel.
Does the logic board contain the 400 mhz processor and firewire hookup, or would those be left behind on the 400 iMac's PAV board?
That's all on the logic board.
Basically the iMac is a CRT display and speakers with a logic board underneath with the optical drive and the hard drive.
The board on top is called the PAV board ( power analog video) i. e. video power supply for a computer monitor. Power comes from that board and comes down to the "down converter" which changes it to logic board power, basically 12V and 5.5V DC. (These boards have been run "headless" but now not worth the trouble)
So your path from here will be determined by what kind of donor iMac you find. It must be a slot loader and the chances are it will be as fast or faster as your current machine.
Richard
On Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 11:17 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Hi Richard:
Well, despite your own circumstances with blueberries and strawberries falling from the computer sky, I've gone on 4 different user forums and several different 'used things for sale' websites, and so far the closest I can come to getting a used imac is having one shipped from the next province (about 500 miles) for about 50-60 bucks, or possibly one in the city which the poster said they wanted 200 bucks for. I've had no reply to my email to them, yet.
Would you be willing to sell me one of those PAV boards, if they're still kicking around? I would think the shipping would be much less than the whole darned computer.
If you don't still have them in piles around you, I may just have to turf the iMac entirely for budgetary reasons.
I guess with the much smaller population, the proliferation of iMacs is similarly reduced. There's only about 3 million people in Alberta, which is where I am.
Let me know.
Greatly appreciate the information connections you've made for me.
Cheers
Carey
On 22-Feb-11, at 1:17 AM, spudnuty wrote:
Hey Carey,
Well I was forced to leave all of my iMac G3 parts with a recycler in Chicago when I moved.
I actually found one here in Pocatello (town of 60K) for $25 so maybe you can find the same thing. I don't have a PAV board and they are very hard to swap out, don't think I ever did it.
So, thinking a bit more about your situation, since you're using it as a server, when it fails does it absolutely freeze up? On the 400 you can attach a VGA monitor to the spigot under the perferated oval grill under the bottom rear. The monitors can fail in these and still produce power to run the logic board. Around here you can get a cheap LCD 15" monitor for around $25. A CRT type you can probably get for free. So if you're lucky it can still work that way.
There were people who ran a logic board headless, but most of these are out of date:
Here's a few:
http://www.applefritter.com/node/2241
http://www.cryogenius.com/hardware/imac/
a translation of the classic French mod:
http://www.hardmac.com/articles/39/page1
Soo hopefully yours will fail and just the CRT will be involved.
Here's hoping...
Richard
<Edited by Host>

Perhaps one of your RAM modules has gone belly up. To test this, remove both RAM modules and start up. If the RAM is the cause of the problem, the computer will respond with a complaining chime, and of course go no further. But that will indicate the RAM is cause, and you can go to the next step; try to start up with just one of the RAM modules installed - either one. If that gets you nowhere, try the other one.
If the problem is not bad RAM, it is beyond my expertise to help. Sorry.

Display failed on Pavilion dv9730nr

On Pavilion dv9730nr laptop, running Windows Vista Home Premium, the display does not come up in any readable fashion on boot.
The display at first ran OK for several minutes before the screen went blank (or very badly scrambled), but it got progressively worse to the point where it will not boot with a readable display at all. The diagnostics I ran while it WAS working a little said the video board (display board?) was not working properly and needed the services of a technician.
I followed a number of forum posts, and I gather this is not an uncommon problem fir this laptop, requiring a new video board to be soldered to the motherboard. If sent to HP, they replace the whole motherboard -- and the problem often recurs.
Plugging an external monitor into the laptop results in an identical unreadable display.
I've decided to dump the laptop despite it's being only about one or two years old (past warranty) since it appears to be a complete lemon.
My Question:
Is there a way for me to retrieve my important files from the hard drive? I have lots of other HP desktops that I could attach the hard drive to IF it has "standard" desktop-type power and data connectors (??)
OR, can I directly connect a working desktop to the laptop, assuming the laptop actually boots OK, even though I can't see a readable display on the laptop -- i.e. can I use the connected working desktop as a readable display so I can see what I'm doing to transfer the laptop's hard drive files to a different hard drive?
BTW, I'm very capable mechanically and electronically, so I can handle opening the laptop, removing stuff, etc. I'd get a new video board and replace it, but I think the particular laptop is too unreliable to be worth the repair -- from what I read on the Forum.
As a last resort, I'm guessing there are computer places I could bring the laptop or its hard drive to so THEY could transfer my files for me?
I'm done with HP, especially since the new CEO wants to get out of the computer business.
Thanks for any advice or help you can offer.
Art Kotz
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The Repair service linked to above is not only very reasonable but has also proven very reliable.Several members have used the service and reported back with excellent results.
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Swapping display boards btw G5s

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