Switching from wireless g to n rputer

I have a linksys wrt54gs withh speedbooster g router switching to wrt160n router. When connecting n router I receive error message stating ethernet cables not plugged in, they are plugged in correctly and when I switch back to g router every thing is fine. What is the problem. I am using a arris modem with comcast broadband cable, uisng vista home priemiun, never had this problem with g. Do I have to disable or delete g modem in network adapters before I use n. Any Info would be appreciated.

Hey try resetting the router reset button in such a way that power
light is blinking on the router & then do a complete network power
cycle i.e., unplug the power cables from the modem & from the router & then plug in the power cable to the modem first once all the lights are
solid green you could plug in the power cable to the router & according to your Internet Service Provider do the troubleshooting & check out
it will definately work!!

Similar Messages

Switching from wireless (Airport) to wired (LAN)- three questions

Perhaps I'm not doing this right, but...
1. When I'm on a wireless connection and logged in to my peer-to-peer networked desktop, then plug in to the wired connection, the system freezes (spinning wheel) for about a minute if I try to turn off the wireless connection before telling me the network connection has been broken. This begs a second question. You can try this at home on just about any laptop running OS X 10.3 +
If I remember to manually disconnect/log off the network machine (and later reconnect it on the wired path) then all is cool.
I suspect therefore that my MBP cannot switch between the connection paths for a logged in connection. Is this true?
2. Is there a way to administer whether and which connection (en0 or en1) is used for certain programs (for example, by the port number allowed in each mode?), in addition to their prioritization in the Network Preference panel? In Windows XP settings of which network connection is used for a given service is supported, but without priority.
3. While the MBP can 'see' two connections, it can only 'use' one of them at a time. Is this correct? How can you tell in that case where there are two network connections, which one is being used?
My reason for needing this feature of assigning a particular port connection is that my backup program, Retrospect Backup, doesn't want two network connection paths in use for itself (on it's port connection).
Two paths assigned to the same client cause all kinds of havoc when that program can see two appearances of the same client machine.
G5 PM 2.0GHz/1.5GB dual MBP 15" 2.0GHz/2GB G3 B&W 400MHz Mac OS X (10.4.7)

1. not sure
2. not sure
Haven't been using OS X long enough yet. (1-2 months)
3. Open the "Network Utility" located at "Applications" "Utilities" the first screen allows you to check info on the network connections. On my MBP (en0) is the Ethernet and (en1) is wireless, select a connection and check the bottom. Watch the "Sent Packets" and "Recv Packets" to see where the data is coming and going.
I have a desktop with Windows Vista with a shared folder with my media files. If I connect with a wired connection OS X doesn't see the share, but the wireless connection will. If I connect the wireless and Ethernet and stream video to my laptop the packets come over the Ethernet connection. It won't connect over Ethernet, but the files come over it, so it seams to be able to use both. Hope fully one of the pros on here can help you more.
MacBook Pro Mac OS X (10.4.9) 2.33GHz Intel Core 2 Duo w/BC Windows XP

Switching from wireless B to wireless G?

Hello All,
I am new to the forum here and new to setting up a network. We currently have broadband cable modem, running into our wireless B router, two desktops connected to the broadband and two laptops both with wireless b notebook adaptors connected to the network via the wireless b router. I did not set up the current network, my DH did but we have recently gotten the WRT54G v1.1 router and two wireless network cards for each laptop. They are WPC54G. I am looking forward to setting the network up this time but my question for you guys is this,
Do I need to do anything other than unplug my existing wireless B products? Do I need to uninstall everything that has been installed for the wireless B products? Or when I install the wireless G products will they just overwrite or replace what is currently on the computers?
Does anyone have any thoughts on this or ideas or tips? Anything to be sure to do or not do? I want this to go as painlessly as possible. Or I may never be allowed to touch the network again! I know that if I get in a jam I can ask DH but as I very much want to figure this out on my own I by asking my own questions and doing my own research he suggested that I start here.
Thanks for any information you guys and gals can provide! And let me know if I need to clarify anything or get any other info. to you that you might need to point me in a direction. I tried to include everything that I thought was relevant.
Thanks,
Jessica

Hello Jessica!
First of all, I like your router [ i like wrt54gL, wrt54g v1-4] coz this versions appeared to be stable than the later versions thats out on the market right now.
OK you can do it in a not-so-painful-way since you have an existing wireless B and I suppose it is working fine.
This is only an option: You may continue using your wireless B but you have to disable its wireless settings so you can use the G settings on your new router. To do this:
step 1: access set up page of the wireless B router [ http://192.168.1.1 ] and disable the wireless mode. I assume that your wireless B router's IP address is 192.168.1.1
stepssss 2: plug in computer directly to the G router's numbered port> access set up page of the wireless G router > http://192.168.1.1 leave username blank and password is admin, change the wireless network name or ssid to a unique name, enable wireless security [reference: www.linksys.com/kb look for answer id 759] change the local ip address under setup page to 192.168.1.2, disable the DHCP server, and saved the settings----> at this point you will lose your connection on the wireless G router.
Step 3: connect an ethernet chord on number 1 2 3 or 4 on the B router and the other end connect to 1 2 3 4 on the G router. Connect wirelessly.
If your wireless card is B then your computer will run on the B speed only 11mbps. No need to uninstall and reinstall devices.
If you really want to get rid of the B router then connect your PC directly to the modem and go to www.linksys.com/connect download the easylink connect and run it>> just follow the instructions.
I will be out for now and will log on here 14 hours later.
GoodLuck
Arthur
Arthur

How do I change back from Wireless to USB. hp 6700 printer

My printer is set up and works great on my wireless network. I have to use it for a project where wireless is unavailable. I tried to switch from wireless to USB by simply plugging the usb in and it won't work. How can I use my printer when there is no wireless available?
thanks

Hi,
Please run install/setup again and this time select USB connection. Please download the following software and drvers, save on your computer (remember where), right click the downloaded file and run as Administrator:
http://ftp.hp.com/pub/softlib/software12/COL41871/mp-109007-3/OJ6700_1315-1.exe
Select USB during the installation process.
Regards.
BH
**Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Has anyone switched from Cincinnati Bell Wireless successfully with their Z-10 from Cincinnati Bell ?

Has anyone switched from Cincinnati Bell Wireless & brought over their BlackBerry Z-10 to Verizon successfully ?

Hi seabee1,
I heard some folks switching over from that carrier but winding up getting new devices. Did you port your number over to our network? If so, did we suggest getting a new device? Share some details.
Thank You,
EdW_VZW
Follow us on twitter @VZWSupport

Outlook 2010 disconnects when switching from wired to wireless

A Windows 7 Pro 64bit laptop with Outlook 2010 keeps disconnecting from the exchange when switching from wired to wireless or vice versa. Then it wont reconnect. Restarting Outlook occasionaly works, not all the time.
Holding CTRL and clicking the Outlook symbol in the notifcation area they connection status and reconnect doesn't work either.
The only way it will reconnect apart from restarting the machine is to restart the Microsoft Exchange Information Store service on our Exchange server.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
JagJag363

Hi,
Since there is a period of time without any respond, I will
temporary mark the reply as answer to closed this thread.
And if you come back to find it doesn't work for you, please reply to us and unmark the answer, this thread will be re-opened.
Sincerely,
Max Meng
Sincerely,
Max Meng
Come back and mark the replies as answers if they help and unmark them if they provide no help.

Switched from DSL to cable modem. My Airport light won't turn green. Keeps blinking orange. No wireless now and can't connect to more than one computer! ?????

Switched from DSL to cable modem. My Airport light won't turn green. Keeps blinking orange. No wireless now and can't connect to more than one computer! ?????

Hmmmm.
If you reset the AirPort Extreme by holding in the reset button for 9-10 seconds and then releasing, the AirPort should be back in default settings which would allow mutliple computers to connect to the LAN ports on the AirPort.
Power off the cable modem for now and leave it off at least 15 minutes.
With the AirPort Extreme still powered on, hold in the rest button on the back for 9-10 seconds and release. Allow a full minute for the AirPort Extreme to restart to a slow, blinking abmer light.
Then, power off the AirPort Extreme.
Check to make sure that the Ethernet cable from the modem is connected to the WAN "O" port on the AirPort Extreme.
After the modem has been powered off for at least 15 minutes, power it up and let it run for 5 minutes by itself.
Now, power up the AirPort Exteme and let it run for 2-3 minutes
Open Macintosh HD > Applications > Utilities > AirPort Utility
Connect an Ethernet cable from your Mac to one of the LAN <-> ports on the AirPort Express
Click on the AirPort Exteme, then click Continue to follow the guided setup tp configure the AirPort Extreme. You can use the same wireless network name, password, etc that you used before, or set up a new name and password, etc.

Switched from DSL to CABLE. WRT54G Wireless Router stopped working.

When I switched from DSL to CABLE, my WRT54G Wireless Router stopped working. I am not able to access the router page (192.168.1.1) Also, when I use the set up CD for re-installation, the wizard aborts in the middle saying it can not connect.
I appreciate any help to resolve this problem.
P.S. The router acts like a one-port wired router.

Here is my favorite method for resetting a router to factory defaults, and trying to get it working again.
To reset your router to factory defaults, use the following procedure:
1) Power down all computers, the router, and the modem, and unplug them from the wall.
2) Disconnect all wires from the router.
3) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
4) Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds, then release it, then let the router reset and reboot (2-3 minutes).
5) Power down the router.
6) Connect one computer by wire to port 1 on the router (NOT to the internet port).
7) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
8) Power up the computer (if the computer has a wireless card, make sure it is off).
9) Try to ping the router. To do this, click the "Start" button > All Programs > Accessories > Command Prompt. A black DOS box will appear. Enter the following: "ping 192.168.1.1" (no quotes), and hit the Enter key. You will see 3 or 4 lines that start either with "Reply from ... " or "Request timed out." If you see "Reply from ...", your computer has found your router.
10) Open your browser and point it to 192.168.1.1. This will take you to your router's login page. Leave the user name blank, and in the password field, enter "admin" (with no quotes). This will take you to your router setup page. Note the version number of your firmware (usually listed near upper right corner of screen). Exit your browser.
If you get this far without problems, try the setup disk (or setup the router manually, if you prefer), and see if you can get your router setup and working.
If you cannot get "Reply from ..." in step 9 above, your router is dead.
If you get a reply in step 9, but cannot complete step 10, then either your router is dead or the firmware is corrupt. In this case, use the Linksys tftp.exe program to try to reload your router with the latest firmware. After reloading the firmware, repeat the above procedure starting with step 1.
If you need additional help, please state your ISP, the make and model of your modem, your router's firmware version, and the results of steps 9 and 10. Also, if you get any error messages, copy them exactly and report back.
Please let me know how things turn out for you.

How do i switch from copy mode to print mode on my office jet 4500 wireless?

Having trouble switching back to print mode on my printer? I can only switch from copy to fax to scan. How do I switch to print???

Hi there,
Could you provide the community with a little more information to help narrow troubleshooting? What operating system are you using?
You can say thanks by clicking the Kudos Star in my post. If my post resolves your problem, please mark it as Accepted Solution so others can benefit too.

Why do I have to switch from Windows Phone to Andr...

Why do I have to switch from Windows Phone to Android?
[September 30, 2014]
This year all my friends with Windows Phone (WP) had switched to Android. Why? The Apps. I continued with WP until now because the OS is very cool (particularly the 8.1 desktop) and because I love Nokia Phones. And the new 830 and 930 models look great.
But I will buy a new Fuji X30 Camera, I need the Wifi remote app for some shoots, I have no choice
Now, I will give a list of reasons my friends left WP because lack or applications, maybe somebody at Microsoft is listening and can revert this tendency.
1. Bank Applications (Bancolombia APP)
2. Giro D’Italia app from La gazzetta dello sport.
3. Stereopinic Concert app.
4. General Motors - Chevrolet navigation/location app.
Another annoying thing with Nokia phones in emerging markets is they don’t distribute all the accessories (headphones, wireless chargers, cases), so you have to buy them from another country make them expensive. I even met three months ago the commercial leader for Nokia here in Colombia, a group of people mentioned this, but nothing has changed since then. The updates came very late and right now I’m not able to use Cortana
I hope Microsoft starts investing hard on apps and identify that little temporal applications for just one week or month (sport events/concerts) and start to create mechanisms to get things done. They just can’t waste the 6’000.000 consumers in US and the 10% share market in some countries in Europe and in emerging markets.

I don't endorse any mobile phone brand nor receive any free stuff from them. Neither did I advertise anything. It was rather a recommendation if the starter of this thread would like ot purchase an Android phone. Censorship won't help to sell any more Lumia phones.
I cannot blame anybody who's about to purchase an Android phone. Being a Windows Mobile & Phone user since 2006 I've seen those strategic mistakes Microsoft has made when the 1st and the 2nd generation of Windows Phones were released (the price of developer account etc. etc.). It's very hard to mend those things afterwards but I sincerely hope it won't be impossible.
I'm blessed that I live in FInland because Nokia has always been considered as a Finnish mobile brand and therefore there are all those (well, almost all) necessary apps available for Windows Phone. IMO the best Nokia app has been Here Transit. I really don't need Here Drive+ because they don't bother to include speed cams and line assistance to their app. Just take a look at Navigation Europe and there you have the best possible navigation app for Windows Phone. Waze is also great and it's free. Hmm, I guess that sentence will be censored because I recommended something
I've been quite pleased with the latest Windows Phones. They haven't crashed like my Dell Venue Pro did (first Windows Phone ever) or like my Android phone, tablet and TV box. But in order to increase the market share of Windows Phones there are two ways:
1) good (amount of) apps, great hardware and/or
2) double booting phone where it's possible to choose whether to boot to Android or to Windows Phone. I'd love to have that kinda phone with the goods described in 1)
Moderator's Note: Discussing or complaining about moderator actions on the forum is not allowed. If you feel that your posts have been moderated unfairly, please contact our Community Manager via private message.

Switching from FCP7 to CS6! Two BIG questions I can't figure out...

Hello!
So I'm running CS6.01 on my new 27" iMac running OS 10.6.8. I'm excited to be transitioning over to CS6 after the last 6 or 7 years using Final Cut Pro. But I don't have time to mess around as I'm in the middle of projects so here are my 2 main questions right off the bat:
First I should say that I edit AVCHD footage shot from Panasonic HMC150's. I shoot Weddings. About 35-40/year. In FCP, my workflow was...shoot EVERYTHING at 720p60 and TRANSCODE it in FCP to ProRes Proxy. Then I'd CONFORM it to 23.98 (using Cinema Tools which takes all of about 30 seconds to do 400 clips) so that it was all in slow-mo looking smooth and beautiful. Then, I'd drop it all on the timeline and edit. Most clips I need in slow-mo but the ones I don't (eg. the Ceremony) I just speed up 250% and it's full speed. Then at the end of editing I'd batch capture and re-transcode to ProRes 422 and I'm done. It all looks great.
Here's the important thing:
I edit on a 23.98fps timeline that way it maintains a bit of the film-stuttery look instead of the video/soap-opera look of 60fps footage and also it naturally has everything at 40% smooth slow-mo. I dont want that video/soap opera look that I would get if I edited my 60p footage on a 60p timeline! This is important to me.
1) I know with CS6 I don't "have" to transcode, but I can just ingest and edit the AVCHD files natively, right? Well, okay, but if I do that will dropping those 60p clips on a 23.98fps timeline give me the same look I got when I use to conform the footage first? Specifically is it just as smooth to just change the speed of a 60p clip by 40% and drop it on a 24p timeline? And what about the stuff I want at full speed...if I drop that 60p footage right on the timeline and don't speed it up it will be full speed but will it look the same as my conformed footage looked when sped up in FCP? Please elaborate for me.
2) Audio. When I bring in audio clips from my 2 cameras each track has 2 separate audio feeds (eg. 2 wireless mics, a shotgun mic, an internal mic). CS6 brings them in on one track. I read up where I need to "Modify the clips" and adjust the Audio Channels so that there are 2 tracks. Then I'm guessing I just make one track the left track and one the right? This seems to work and makes a separate track that is balanced to the center and has each of the 4 channels as its own separate adjustable track. Am I doing that right? And more importantly...my real question...if I'm scrubbing thru the timeline and I double click on one of the audio tracks to bring up the waveform and edit, sometimes it doesn't come up where I stopped in the timeline. Unless the clips are linked. But don't I have to unlink them to edit them individually? So how do I do this where I can be in the timeline, watching the video and when I hear something I want to adjust, I stop the video and quickly access the individual track (eg. one of the wireless mics) to make the adjustments?
Hope my questions make sense. Thanks SO much in advance for all your help! It took me like 20 minutes to figure out how to post a question but now that I've done it I'm very excited that I've got it out there and hopefully I'll get past my current workflow roadblocks. Thank you!!!!!!!

Jim Simon wrote:
I'd recommend a different work flow. Shoot what you want at full speed in 720p/24. Shoot what you want in slow motion at 720p/60...
I would respectfully disagree with Jim's statement and endorse the OP's technique of shooting at 60 fps for purposes of playback at both normal speed and slow motion at 24 fps.
I think the more creative choices you give yourself in post the better.
Since you (DMH79) are using the same footage for both normal speed and slow motion playback, I think your way is definitely the way to go as long as you are happy with the resolution.
Even if you were not using the same clips at different speeds, I would still disagree with the opinion that you should be able to predict in advance which shots from a hectic live action event such as a wedding you will want to use in slow motion. In fact, I would go so far as to say that it would be impossible, no matter how easy it is to switch modes.
Given that slow motion is a reasonable priority for you, I think there is much less to be gained by shooting at 24 fps for clips that you might use at normal speed than by giving yourself the option of both normal speed and slow motion with a 60 fps recording. (To me the bigger tradeoff is not being able to shoot 1080p at 60 fps, which I think applies to your HMC150.)
I love the look of 24p and will shoot that way for scripted work or if I am absolutely certain that I won't want to use a single shot in slow motion, but for many live events, my preference is to shoot at 720p60, shutter angle 180, for eventual output at 30 fps. I edit in a 60 fps timeline in Premiere, but I export at 30 fps. I find that exporting at 30 fps in combination with the 1/120 shutter speed removes much of the soap opera look (a great description, by the way), but there is no jerkiness in normal speed clips because 30 is exactly half of 60. Media Encoder simply removes every other frame during export. Yet, this allows me to drop any clip to 50% speed and achieve perfectly matched, silky smooth slow motion.
You probably prefer the 40% speed slow motion and added stutter of 24 fps, but regardless, if you do find that controlling the speed via Speed/Duration is equal in quality to conforming, you may want to consider cutting in a 60 fps timeline and giving yourself the option to export at either 24 or 30 fps.
Your last post on this topic was from a few months ago. I also switched from FCP7 and would be very curious to know what you have discovered!

My iMac keeps typing a minus sign. I switched my wireless keyboard for a plug in Windows keyboard, and it keeps typing this one character. I took the batteries out of the Mac keyboard, so that is not the problem. I am running Mac OS X 10.6.8.

my iMac keeps typing a minus sign. I switched my wireless keyboard for a plug in Windows keyboard, and it keeps typing this one character. I took the batteries out of the Mac keyboard, so that is not the problem. I am running Mac OS X 10.6.8. In parallels, I don't have any problem, just on the Mac platform.

tebasj wrote:
Thanks for your observation. I realize they are different versions, but when I use the "Software Update" menu, this is as far as it would update. Is there some way to update the iMac beyond what "Software Update" does? I've tried it several times.
Please Note.
Upgrading OSX 10.6.8 (Snow Leopard) to 10.8.3 (Mountain Lion) is not an update. It is a paid upgrade. Just as with 10.7 (Lion) you must purchase it from the App Store with yor Apple ID and install it after backing up your current computer state for safety.
Cheers
Pete

Has anyone switched from a PC notebook to a MacBook Pro?

I am a PC user who is considering switching my 1-year old Toshiba notebook to a MacBook Pro. My reasons for doing so are:
(1) I would like to simplify the number of applications from various vendors on my computer in order to reduce software conflicts and memory "hogs" that run in the background.
(2) I have heard that MacBooks are much more secure -- so much so that anti-virus software isn't even usually required. (However, I'm not sure what the constraints are when running a Mac on a home wireless network in conjunction with a desktop PC computer.)
(3) My understanding is that working with photo's is much more effective with a Mac than a PC. I currently run ACDSee Pro and PhotoShop Elements, and the former has really slowed down my system.
(4) I've been told that any type of setup -- be it new software, connecting to a network, or finding a wireless Internet connection -- is very easy and straight forward.
If anyone has experience with switching from a PC notebook to a MacBook Pro, I would appreciate hearing your opinion on doing so, both positive and negative. Alternatively, if you know of a good Web site that provides this type of information, please point me to the URL.
Thank you!
~Kelly

Hello,
I switched from a Pentium 4 2.2GHz Dell laptop to a Intel CD 2GHz MacBook Pro.
This what I found (the good):
- the spotlight search on a mac is soo much better and faster compared to a windows search.
- No need for all those extra programs that scan you PC for virusses, spyware, mallware,...
- No need to download additional drivers or programs before you can do anything.
- No third pary software that messes up the whole system. Apple software appears to be more reliable, even from third parties.
- Backlight keyboard with shaped keys
- You can do more with a mac trackpad than with a windows trackpad. It does not bother me when I forget the mouse on my desk. The trackpad scrolls and has a "right mouse button" as well.
- Multitasking without systemwide slow downs.
- I have an iPod, so iTunes is all I need/want.
What I also found (the bad):
- the screen resolution on my Dell was higher.
- Some apps still need Rosetta (office, photoshop,...). If pictures are your thing, iPhoto is no replacement for Adobe photoshop.
- I sometimes miss the picure viewer thing you have in windows XP. When you select picures and open them, they open in a window with nice back/forward controls,...
The Preview app in Mac just isn't the picture viewer I hoped it would be. But maybe that's just me...
- there is a lot more freeware for PC than for Mac. This can also be a good thing for Apple if you consider that most of these freeware things are crap anyway...
- iChat only works with specific accounts and other iChat programs. I hoped it would be a more "universal" chat program without these limitations. To chat to windows people you need a serious work-around (jabber) or just use MSN messenger.
- no good at games unless you have bootcamp and a windows CD.
Overall: I would not go back to windows. I really like the MacBookpro and OSX.
I have to say that I was not unsatisfied with windows, so I will not trash it. It always worked well for me and did't crash. Programs crashed, but windows did not. I believe a lot of these crashes are due too crappy third party software installed by the user at their own risk...
I'm saying this to let you know that I happely use the 2 systems, but the mac wins for me. OSX is nice to work with and nice to look at.
Hope this helps...
Bjorn

Switching from Windows to Mac. Is it worth it? Please help!

Hey everybody,
I think I finally made my decision to switch from windows to Mac,..the I-book. G4 (not the power book). The I-book I want is around 1299.00, with the wider screen,..than the smaller i-book.
Anyhow,.what led me to this decision was just sending back the Sony FS series. It was sleek beautiful and"white" like I love,..but the speakers were awful. I have just about given up on trying to find a decent notebook. I love the look of the i-book,..but cant get that gorgeous wide screen from Sony out of my mind. It was more than the speakers. Just too noisy. Anyway...if you bought this i-book all over again,..would you? Alos I have a brand new Linskys Router with the built in Security. Would the Macs intergrated wireless card,..work with my router?
Please help!
Lil
planning on getting this notebook. Need advice

I'm afraid you're not exactly going to get an unbiased opinion here
As a long-time Mac fan (back since System 6) who was forced into a PC world man years ago, OSX has re-kindled my passion for computing. I'm an old Unix guy and OSX has combined the best PC operating system with the power of Unix. To the average user who doesn't care about shell scripts and porting free applications, what you'll get from Unix is a tremendous amount of reliability and security...
One of the best reasons for anyone to switch to the Mac was summed up in a post over on iLounge as a reply to someone who was switching. When asked why anyone would switch, one reply simply said, "...because he realises that a computer should be a productivity tool, not a virus scanner."
In the year since I've bought my Mac Mini, the only failure I've had has been a crash of Virtual PC (an emulator that will allow you to run your old Windows-based applications), which took the virtual disk out and forced me to reinstall my Windows environment. That's nothing different than I've experienced countless times on my old PC.
That said, I'm looking at a 12" iBook. I didn't even consider the 14" because I don't want something larger that doesn't give me extra screen real-estate. I debated the 15" Powerbook but decided I don't really need it's larger screen, and I'd rather have something more portable. There are companies out there that sell dual-layer DVD-RW drives that can be installed in an iBook (even the 12" Powerbook only ships with a single-layer DVD burner).
512mb should be plenty, unless you plan on editing video or running Virtual PC--in which case, I'd recommend at least a gig.
Mini Mac OS X (10.4.3) 12" iBook + 2.3ghz Powermac on the way! Former Newton OMP user.

Charges associated with switching from Family to Individual Plans

Is there any kind of penalty charge for switching from a family plan to an individual plan when it is the secondary line that is being removed and the secondary lines' contract is complete?

skiibojosh wrote:
Is there any kind of penalty charge for switching from a family plan to an individual plan when it is the secondary line that is being removed and the secondary lines' contract is complete?
Thanks to the community members for your input. Hello skiibojosh, adding to what was stated, Are you just wishing to change your calling plan so each line remains with Verizon Wireless under their own individual plan You can always change your calling plan online without a penalty as it is not related to a customer agreement. I hope your line that completed the contract does remain with us. We desire to provide your line with best calling plan available. Here's a link that goes over the individual calling plans we currently offer. Additionally, there are great benefits with having a family share plan. However, depending upon your specific circumstances, if you desire to have both of lines on an individual plan, you could process a calling plan change online at My Verizon. It is suggested to change the calling plan effective on your next bill cycle to help avoid any prorated charges. If you need additional assistance with doing a calling plan change, send me a private message with your contact information.

Switching from wireless g to n rputer

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