Switching power supply transformer

I cannot find the Dc 24v 12a switching power supply tranfomer in multisim 11
i'am talking about this http://www.amazon.com/Switching-Power-Supply-Transformer-Regulated/dp/B006QSOF60
someone can help please ?
thanks in advance

Hi Behabeck,
Multisim have an ideal power supply and you can set it to what voltage you want, the current output depends on your load. A switching power supply is type circuit and you can use Multisim to design it.
Tien P.
National Instruments

Similar Messages

Anyone have a model or circuit for a switched power supply?

Teach in a County College and would like to include this topic in one of the electronics courses. Help is appreciated.
Steve

Thank you for your help Yi. Im using 10.0.144. Using the "Save As" function, I modified the circuit from the Averaged Model Current Mode boost to create the "Trial_Boost_CM" file. (The path is "samples/SMPS Circuits/Average Analysis") I've described the extent of my modifications with text on the schematic. I've been able to successfully simulate it with several "unknown parameters" warnings in the audit log
Using the same method, I created the "Trial_Buck_CM" file and modified it as noted on that schematic. I've also been successful (with similar warning) simulating it.
Finally, I created a third file, "Trial_MultipleConverter" from the "Trial_Boost_CM" via the "Save As" function. I added a second sheet and pasted the circuit from the "Trial_Buck_CM". When this combined circuit is simulated, the error message "...duplicated subcircuit name ...." as I mentioned previously occurs.
The error message does not appear when I delete either or both (naturally) of the CCM models. Once I place the model again yields the same result.
This also occurs if you place the models within separate Hiearchial blocks.
What am I doing wrong?
Attachments:
Trial_Boost_CM.ms10 ‏191 KB
Trial_Buck_CM.ms10 ‏75 KB
Trial_MultipleConverter.ms10 ‏288 KB

Unibody adapter can transfer power supply neutral voltage

I hope this topic has not been mentioned before.
I have been using my unibody with the supplied and noticed that in some countries I get a tingle when I touch the computer. This is because the supply neutral carries some voltage. Even 5 volts (on a 240V) supply can cause a tingle when the body is touched. By the way, this is not a problem with UK power supplies.
I am considering purchasing an isolating transformer. Has anyone else come across the problem?
I overcome it by using the computer only when on batteries. However, I do worry if a power supply neutral is not properly earthed you could get a shock from the unibody.
I wonder of apple has an alternative power supply with an isolating transformer, other that the switching power supply as supplied.
Unfortunately this problem is specific to metal bodies only.
Regards
Hamzah

Hello HantuUK, and welcome to the boards.
AS long as you use the power adaptor with the three prong earthed cord rather than the two prong duckhead adaptor the problem does not occur unless the power source that you are plugging into is improperly earthed.
Poor earthing can, of course, be an issue in some countries, especially in remote areas and older buildings.
I've run into the issue myself in some remote Australian areas.
There have been quite a few threads about it over the years, often with strong debate about the actual cause. The problem has been around for a long time. I first ran into it with my old aluminium Powerbook 867MHz 12".
Cheers
Rod

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

Power Supply Help

Hey,
I'm building a new computer. The specs are as follows:
CASE: Aero Cool Jetmaster Mid Tower ATX
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte GA-K8NF-9 NVIDIA nForce4 4X (Socket 939)
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 3000 (Socket 939)
MEMORY: PC3200 400MHz 1 Gig (2x512 Meg) 184pin DDR SDRam
VIDEO CARD: eVGA e-geForce 6800 GT PCI-E 16x 256 Megs GDDR3
HARD DRIVES: Western Digital 80 Gig HD @ 7200RPM + Maxtor 40 Gig HD @ 7200RPM
OPTICAL DRIVE 1: Creative 52X CD-ROM Drive
OPTICAL DRIVE 2: DVD-RW
OPTICAL DRIVE 3: CD-RW
+ a Floppy Drive
I will be looking to do a lot of high end games on this machine and I am looking for a power supply to suit my needs. So far I am looking at a COOLMAX 450W SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY (model CT-450) vs. the Enermax Whisper 431W Power Supply (model EG465P-VE)
The thing is that your Enermax power supply is going to cost me a bit more than the Coolmax power supply. However, I am willing to pay the extra cast IF its needed, but ONLY if its needed. So what do you guys think. Can anyone here give me an opinion as to which power supply is better suited for my needs
Also, if you think that none of these power supplies are good for me and I should go in a whole new directions completely... let me know what power supply you think I should go with instead, thnx

Quote from: zero260 on 23-May-05, 08:15:26
Hey,
I'm building a new computer. The specs are as follows:
CASE: Aero Cool Jetmaster Mid Tower ATX
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte GA-K8NF-9 NVIDIA nForce4 4X (Socket 939)
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 3000 (Socket 939)
MEMORY: PC3200 400MHz 1 Gig (2x512 Meg) 184pin DDR SDRam
VIDEO CARD: eVGA e-geForce 6800 GT PCI-E 16x 256 Megs GDDR3
HARD DRIVES: Western Digital 80 Gig HD @ 7200RPM + Maxtor 40 Gig HD @ 7200RPM
OPTICAL DRIVE 1: Creative 52X CD-ROM Drive
OPTICAL DRIVE 2: DVD-RW
OPTICAL DRIVE 3: CD-RW
+ a Floppy Drive
I will be looking to do a lot of high end games on this machine and I am looking for a power supply to suit my needs. So far I am looking at a COOLMAX 450W SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY (model CT-450) vs. the Enermax Whisper 431W Power Supply (model EG465P-VE)
The thing is that your Enermax power supply is going to cost me a bit more than the Coolmax power supply. However, I am willing to pay the extra cast IF its needed, but ONLY if its needed. So what do you guys think. Can anyone here give me an opinion as to which power supply is better suited for my needs
Also, if you think that none of these power supplies are good for me and I should go in a whole new directions completely... let me know what power supply you think I should go with instead, thnx
Not to sound like an a$$hole, but in what way does this post fit into 'MSI'????

Apple TV 160GB 1st Generation Failed Power Supply

Hi,
Anyone know where I can buy a replacement Delta switching power supply model ADP-36BF (Output 5v 7.2A) for my failed one in my Apple TV 160GB Generation 1 ?
I wouldn't suppose Apple woud repair it for less than the cost of a new ATV Black :-(

it's a universal device, so will work anywhere.
the only thing you will need to change is the power cable/plug.

Home Hub 3 Power Supply

I've just been given a Home Hub 3 but there is no power supply with it.
Does anyone one know what the rated input of the hub is and where I might obtain the correct plug?

Hi Geoff, just checked my HH3 plug and it's as follows:
BT switching power supply
Model No S018SB1200100
P/N: 253371437
Input 230v 50Hz 300mA
Output 12.0v 1000mA
For use with BT Home Hub 3.0 Type A
On the HHub 3 itself
Rated Input 12V 1A
If that helps you
Can't check HH2 at present as i put this in the loft, these i've seen on the sites as toekneem suggested but i have not seen the HH3 power supplies on there own only with HH3's. BT do supply a returns address if you want to return your old Hubs when upgrading but i can't find that at present, that might help if anyone has a contact for them, otherwise call BT direct?
Good luck

Is WRT1900AC power supply 110v only?

For those who have this does it say "110v" or "110-240v" on the power brick?
Cheers
Solved!
Go to Solution.

It is a standard 100-240V switching power supply.
I can't think of the last time I saw one that didn't support all AC voltages.
However, what is really, really stupid, bordering on asinine, is the length of the removable power cable from the supply to the wall socket. It's less than 21 inches (~52cm). Seriously, it's completely useless. I had to use a power cable from something else I had laying around so it would, combined with the permanently attached cable that plugs into the router, reach to the top of the bookshelf that I have the router on (for the best wireless range) from the wall socket.
The power cable barely reaches to the ground from the wall socket, it's that short.

Is this power supply adequate for my system?

I have a Turbolink switching power supply
model: CWT-420ATX-12V
voltage 115/230v
current 10a/5a
frequency 60/50hz
look at my components below...

Quote
Originally posted by mcloud777
voltage 115/230v
current 10a/5a
frequency 60/50hz .
these parameters won't help anybody {except they may count your electricity bill }, buddy, cause most of even so called 420W psus will have them ....
please post maximal amperes for 5V , 12V , 3.3V rails {these are usually on the sticker on the psu itself, if you don't have the psu andor don't know it and can't get to know then DON'T BUY IT},
your components may get a little hungry and some 420 unreal watts won't help you...
post details or make everybody guess...
ok I've gathered info from http://www.iamnotageek.com/showindex.php?t=54638,
where pic is http://www.asdfhost.com/members/sirxile/My%20current%20Turbolink%20PSU%20-%2011-144-018-03.jpg:
and you should have written : (if it's the same model)
3.3V = 28A
5V = 40A
12V = 18A
=> so if you cut them in half : 3.3 = 46W , 5V=100W , 12V=108W .
by my opinion it's adequate, but if you consider some heavy OCing or adding HDDs
or whatever power consuming (peltiers ), this will turn into no-go.

Power supply for MSI 645 Ultra mother board

I need to replace the power supply for a MSI 645 Ultra mother board. I've available a switching power supply Allied model DR-B500E, that doesn't have the -5V output (infact its 20 pin ATX power supply connector has no wire in pin 18).
Can I use this power supply with the MSI 645 Ultra?
Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi, here I am. Sorry for delay but I had some problems with the PC (as NTLDR missing).
However now is ok and I can confirm that it runs ok also with power supply without -5V output.
Thanks a lot for the support and best wishes for Christmas and new year.

Power supply of Cisco WVC210 Camera with batteries

I want to use my new WVC210 Wireless-G PTZ Internet Video Camera on my wheeled robot, so I would like to provide a separate power source for this camera.
Can I use 4 "D" batteries for it? They give 6 V DC, not 5 V as written on the camera.
I've measured the voltage coming out from the power supply, which came with the camera. In Switzerland it outputs 5.39 V DC.
I am afraid 6 V DC may damage the camera. Or is it OK?
If 6 V is not OK, then another possibility is 4 x 1.2 V DC researchable batteries. But it gives only 4.8 V DC.
Can camera be supplied with only 4.8 V DC? Or is it better to use 6 V DC?
Or I shall build DC-DC converter outputting exactly 5 V?
In specifications for the Cisco WVC210 it is written: "5V DC 2.0A switching power supply". But how tolerrant is the switching power supply? Will it work safely with 6 - 5.8 V?

I'm afraid we can't recommend using any power source other than the AC adapter included with the camera. Using anything else would likely void your warranty also.
Regards,

Severe Incompatibility between Mac Pro 2012 power supply and Tripp Lite 2400 watt Line Conditioner [switching transformer].

Severe Incompatibility between Mac Pro 2012 power supply and Tripp Lite LC2400 [switching transformer].
The Mac Pro will not power on when connected to the Tripp Lite LC2400. The Power Supply makes continuous clicking noises and repeatedly resets the Mac Pro every 3 seconds.
The same Mac Pro connected to an outlet with no Tripp Lite starts up with no problem.

Hi,
I've the same notebook. I've not had any hardlocks so far, but I've not seen so much flash movies yet. Anyway, I just tried closing running youtube-video tab on Kde4 + enabled desktop effects -> Everything's fine.
Anyway, perhaps we can collect some issues and solutions in this thread. Here are problems, that I encounter:
- restart does not work
- errors during boot:
[ 2.399277] pnp 00:0b: [irq 23]
[ 2.399308] pnp 00:0b: Plug and Play ACPI device, IDs SMO8800 (active)
[ 2.932179] pnp 00:0c: can't evaluate _CRS: 12311
[ 14.616662] iTCO_wdt: Intel TCO WatchDog Timer Driver v1.07
[ 14.616771] iTCO_wdt: Found a Cougar Point TCO device (Version=2, TCOBASE=0x0460)
[ 14.616792] iTCO_wdt: cannot register miscdev on minor=130 (err=-16)
[ 14.616904] iTCO_wdt: probe of iTCO_wdt failed with error -16
[ 9.262898] sdhci-pci 0000:0b:00.1: SDHCI controller found [1217:8321] (rev 5)
[ 9.262920] sdhci-pci 0000:0b:00.1: PCI INT B -> GSI 18 (level, low) -> IRQ 18
[ 9.262966] sdhci-pci 0000:0b:00.1: Invalid iomem size. You may experience problems.
[ 9.263176] sdhci-pci 0000:0b:00.1: setting latency timer to 64
Issued solved:
- in order to make nvidia graphics working you have to disable Optimius in BIOS.
- Battery not recognized -- fixed after recend updates
- grub2 does not work. As soon as grub2 loads, the laptop reboots. -> stick to grub1 -- works now (either I did sth wrong the first time or a new version of grub2 fixes this issue)
- in order to make the touchpad work properly install psmouse-elantech from AUR
update: this is only a half-solution. vertical scrolling on the right edge works but graphical tools which rely on x11-input-synpatics still don't work. However, everything works fine with kernel 3.3. Once this in the main arch repos you won't need psmouse-elantech anymore.
Last edited by knue (2012-03-06 23:26:26)

Power Supply Switch!

Okay, here's the scenario. i bought an Apple iMac a few years ago in the UK where their power supply is around 220v. Since then i have moved country where the voltage system has changed to 120v instead.
Currently i use a transformer to convert voltage system from 120v to 220v so that i can run my iMac. So i'm wondering if anyone might know if there might be a switch that i can flick to allow my iMac to run on the same 120v so that i don't have to use a heavy cumbersome transformer.
looking forward to any replies on this topic.
^Ch@mber^

Hello and Welcome to Apple Discussions.
As Stedman suggests all iMacs (with the exception of some US bought early iMac G5s) have dual power supplies and will work on 100-250volts or so.
mrtotes

21 September, 2014: MD513AE/A iPad Wi-Fi-16GB White - Model A 1458 I have purchase this from Dubai, UAE, some 2 years back. ---- I am NOT able to switch it on; when connected to power supply, the battery icon comes in but no signs of charging.

21 September, 2014, from India.
MD513AE/A iPad Wi-Fi-16GB White - Model A 1458
I have purchase this from Dubai, UAE, some 2 years back.
I am NOT able to switch it on; when connected to power supply, the battery icon comes in but no signs of charging.
After some times the ‘Apple’ icon comes in. Tried simultaneous operation of Sleep and Power buttons, but of no use.
Sometimes a picture of cable and ITunes comes in; but not able to connect to
P C as there is no battery charge.

Hi madhu254,
Thank you for visiting Apple Support Communities.
If your iPhone is not charging, please check out this article.
iPhone and iPod touch: Charging the battery
There's a Resolving issues section, but you may want to read it all.
Best regards,
Nubz

Switching power supply transformer

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