System Boot problems / Power supply? Antec Neopower.

I've had this system for around 2 weeks now and as I've posted in other threads I have a occasional problem getting past the windows splash screen, if I don't get in the first time if I reset I usually boot in no problem.
It's a very odd problem that is really stumping me.. I kind of think it's raid related? but could if possibly be my power supply? I have a Antec NeoPower 480w which I carried over from my intel system and figured it would be fine?!
But since I've been reading these forums it seems as though the AMD64 systems are quite picky when it comes to the amps issue. Would it be a good idea to replace this power supply or could it possibly be something else? Thanks for any help..

Most likely it is the board.
I have to boot up twice to get a POST everytime my system is cold.
I thought it's my PSU too and went for one of the best: OCZ Powerstream 520W
Still the same problem. My problem isn't that bad since i just have to power on, off on to get it running but it's still showing how bad/bug-ridden this board is.

Similar Messages

Spontaneous Shut-off problem (power supply?)

Hi-- I have a first generation G5 iMac.
Last year, there was about a week in which it would spontaneously shut off. I read there were possibly some power supply issues with the early units, so I took it in to an Apple Store hoping they would diagnose such a problem and fix it; they ran it for a couple hours, said there were no problems, and sent me home. Over the last month, it has started happening again, and has happened at least seven times. I do regular backups and I've been lucky, but I know one of these days it's going to happen while I'm doing something important. I wouldn't mind taking it back to the Apple Store, but it's not an easy trek, and it happens so unpredictably that I think the odds of getting it to do it at an appointed time is slim, in which case I'm afraid they're just going to send me home again.
Just wanted to know if anyone else has dealt with such a problem, what the fix was, and how I might convince the tech guys to delve a little deeper even when they don't actually witness the event.
Thanks,
dave

Miriam--
Dave, if, in fact,as Charlie suggests, the cause of
your shutdowns is a variable power supply, it should
easily be cured by the addition of a Universal Power
Supply
While an excellent idea (I wouldn't have a computer without connecting it to a UPS any more), a UPS won't necessarily solve the problem of the unexpected shutdowns. My iMac was on a UPS and it still would shut down.
There are two kinds of UPSs. The most common is a battery backup. Most of the time, the computer is actually getting power from the mains. If the UPS detects a failure of the mains, it'll switch to providing the computer with battery power. But there will be a very small fraction of a second where there will be not power at all supplied to the computer. If the computer's power supply is healthy, it should be able to bridge that tiny interruption until it starts getting power from the UPS. But if it's not healthy enough, the computer will shut down.
The second kind of UPS is what you are describing, where the UPS provides power to the computer at all times. These aren't as common, though, and are more expensive. I'm not sure if APC even sells this kind. At least, I couldn't find any at their web site that I could be sure were this kind.
When I had the shutdown problems with my iMac, I initially thought it might be a problem with the UPS, since the iMac would shut off if the power was interrupted long enough for the UPS to notice. I could easily test it by just pulling the plug going to the UPS. Earlier, I had been able to do that without problems in order to test a script I was writing to shut down the computer in case the of a power failure (for some reason, the software built into OS X to do this wasn't working right).
But when I was having the shutdowns, the iMac would shut off right away as soon as I pulled the plug on the UPS. Luckily, I was able to test my UPS at work on another computer and try a UPS from work on my computer and rule out the UPS. Now that my power supply unit has been replaced, the iMac will once again survive the switch from the mains to the UPS's battery.
charlie

System boot problem

I have Hp pavillion p001tx.
I am unable to refresh reset and restore my laptop what to do.
evry system check passed
My laptop boots in safe mode only and safe mode with networking and netwrk do not work

Have you tried System Recovery?
http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03489643#N144
******Clicking the Thumbs-Up button is a way to say -Thanks!.******
**Click Accept as Solution on a Reply that solves your issue to help others**

System Boot problems (MS-6380e)

Ok my system was running fine for a long time now. I recently went out of town and I unplugged all cable going to my system(after a shutdown). Did this so no one would use my system while I was away. Anyway I came back and I am unable to get my system running again.
The DBracket is showing red lights for 1&2 and green lights for 3&4. According to the manual this means
Quote
Initializing Hard Drive Controller
- This will initialize IDE drive and controller.
I can't get any video to come up on my system so i can't get into the bios.
Things I have done
- Unplugged EVERYTHING. Left CPU only, still same problem.
- Plugged in new hard drive
- Tried with just hard drive and cpu
- Tried new psu
I have tried almost everything possible. Any idea as to what is going on?

Have you tryed to reset your bios settings by removeing the battery or jumpers? Maybe your battery is bad and the time the computer was turnd off has corrupted your bios settings.

875P NEO FIS2R problems with booting at power-up

Having problems with booting at power-up.
Recently, with no apparent modification to system - at power up the system will often not boot. About 80% of time systems seems to go into a loop with CD/DVD drive light blinking a few times, then the floppy drive light comes on and can hear the FDD run – within 30 seconds or so, this process starts over again. Power switch LED is on and HDD LED is on (continuously). All fans are running (power supply fan, case fan, CPU fan and Intel Canterwood 875 fan ).
Monitor power on light is in power save mode (amber) when system does not boot. When boot is successful the monitor power light turns green immediately.
After pressing the reset button several times (varies between pressing reset button 1 time to 30 or more times) system will then boot OK or go into set up.
Once running there is no apparent problem.
This mainboard comes with D Bracket containing 2 USB 2.0 ports, and 4 diagnostics LEDs - when boot problem occurs the diagnostic LEDs, give a code that in the MSI mainboard manual states “Initializing Keyboard Controller” and diagnostic LEDs stays in this mode until via reset button provides a successful boot and start up.
Have reseated all connectors.
SYSTEM
Mainboard – MSI 875P Neo FIS2R (MSI 6758)
BIOS – AMI v1.8 (has not been updated)
CPU – Intel P4 2.6 GHz - system bus 800 MHz 512 KB L2 Cache
Memory – 1.5 gb (2 x 256 mb and 2 x 512mb)
Power Supply – Antec 380 watt
HDD – IED WD 160 GB and IED WD 40 GB
Video Card – ATI Radeon 9600 (128 RAM)
Operating System – MS Windows XP Pro (sp2)

Quote from: BOSSKILLER on 17-May-08, 03:34:12
Have you done >>Clear CMOS Guide<<?
Cleared CMOS - no change same problem. Also, re-seated all connectors at same time.
Quote from: Wonkanoby on 17-May-08, 09:06:54
have you just added the second wd drive
are they jumpered right
jumperless if alone on ide
jumpered master /slave if two on it
No, second 40GB HDD was installed months before this issue started and is jumpered as slave drive. Also, no other additional hardware installed for several months before issue.

Power supply, how many Watts?

Hello!
I had som trouble when doing music on Steinberg Cubase SX2. When the CPU load reached 30% it started to jump, up to 30% extra and then back. Once it occured it continued pumping up and down.
I increased the performance mode in Bios from Slow to Turbo on my 875N NEO main board, and it worked. But not for long since the computer turned back to Slow mode without me doing anything. After turning back to Turbo once again the system didn't boot. The D-Bracket's diagnostic LED's gave this message:
"Boot Attempt - This will set low stack and boot via INT 19h"
I don't know what this means.
I let my system cool off and restarted it and it worked - in Slow mode!
I got the feeling that the power supply couldn't deliver enough Watts and Performance mode automaticly turned back to a safe mode.
My power supply delivers 300W. This is what I have installed:
1 DVD-ROM
1 CD burner
2 Harddisks
Graphics card - MSI Gforce4 MX440SE-T
Sound card - EMU 1212m
In performance Slow mode - I have used the diagnostic tool SiSoft Sandra and getting very different results when running CPU, memory and cache benchmarks. Sometimes the results are half of what the supplied reference curves indicates. But other times everthing is correct. All the bus speeds are OK.
Can this be explained by not enough Watts. If so how much power should a system like mine have?
KA

Here's a post I wrote in May in another forum, when I discovered the importance of a good PSU
Your system crashes? Did you really...
...check all components??
In 90% of cases, you will forget the most important component, the Power Supply Unit (PSU). Before spending money in changing RAM, MB, graphic card, read this:
I Wanted to share my experience in my last crash issues.
I have a fast P4 2.8G 512Mb, GT4600, 2HD, 2 optic drives...
Never had issues, till I begun adding hardware:
LAN, Surround Sound, wireless keyboard/mouse, USB hubs, IEEE devices...
Random varried hang-ups, reboots, crashes, never the same circumstances
I noticed a CPU temperature increase. Suspecting an overheating, I tried running my PC with the case open. My problems became very rare.
Then, I upgraded to a Radeon 9600 Pro: crashes, reboots, overheating of CPU. I invested in a ThermalTake Subzero 4G cooler with independent power supply. My problems disappeared or rather became sparse. I again thought it's the overheating.
Last week, my Subzero 4G advanced cooler died, and the CPU burned up to 75¡ã before crashing. I returned my subzero and went with a Zalman 7000Al-Cu cooler.
System experienced seldom reboots, crashes and was no longer possible to work on it. Sometimes, it will reboot during the boot process, before even windows begins to load.
This time, I finally thought at my Power Supply Unit, a generic 300 Watt.
Browsed a bit on google, and found that my 300 watt would never be able to supply my too heavy equipped system.
The Power Supply Unit (PSU), is maybe one of the most important components in a PC. But it's also one of the less known. we often buy or assemble a PC. The case includes often cheap generic 300-350 Watt PSU. All works, till the day you add a HD, buy a new power hungry graphic adapter, increase RAM... then crashes, reboots, overheating appear.
They are related to the PSU delivering high load voltages to the units and low voltage to other parts, since it is over loaded. Often it ends with CPU overheating, PCI/AGP cards burned. In my case, I now think it was overvoltage to burn my PCI card controlled Subzero Cooler.
After long hours of browsing the forums for PSU reviews, I changed to an Antec Truepower 550 watt PSU, and no more reboots, crashes or over heating.
Also, this solved my LAN router (supporting 1024 sessions) being reset under emule. Probabily too much power requested by the many open connections that my PSU couldn't deliver.
An advice, if you experience crashes during games, burning CDs, reading CDroms, overcloaking or especially sudden reboots, check your configuration. If you have something like a P4, a new power graphic card, plenty of HD, then look at your PSU. If it is some generic 300-350 Watt, before changing RAM, motherboard, graphic card to solve problems, spend soome 150$ in an Antec or Enermax 480-550 watt PSU, and most of your headaches will be solved.
Take a review of PSUs here
http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.html?i=1841&p=1
they don't include the TruePower 550, but the TrueControl 550. They are just same, but the TrueControl have a front panel to manually adjust voltages, only for hardcore overclockers.
If you wonder, why at the begining my problems were solved just by running the system with case opened, then you must know that all PSU have their output power decrease as temperature increases. All sold PSU in the public market have their max output tested at 25C. At 70C, they are all rated for 0 Watt output. You understand the importance of a well supplied, but also well cooled system. The best in the market is Antec/Enermax. Take care with Q-Tec low price PSU, many bad reports on MSI motherboards forums
Q-Tec warning!!!!

Powe supply clicking when i plug in mac pro

why does my mac boot up when i plug it in?
when it boots the power supply starts clicking, like a fan hitting something, when i pull the plug it slows down slowly, aany ideas?
thanks

i have the same problem, if it could be considered a problem.
It power up instantly when i plug in the cable, without pushing the start button. But i have no fan clicks.
I did a search on the web and found many others messages about this. I called the support and did a SMC reset, but it still power up when i plug it. Hope this will not produce any damage in the future.

Mac Pro 2,1 Spontaneous Restart with No Boot - Power Supply PSU Problem?

One day I was working away on my Mac Pro 2,1 Quad Core 3.0 (2007) with 8 gb ram running Lion and it just shut itself off like someone pulled the power cord (but no one did of course). Then it attempted to restart, but wouldn't boot. Basically I haven't been able to use it since as I can't get the computer to stay on for any length of time.
I'm thinking its either the power supply or the, oh no, logic board.
Symptoms have been like this so far:
Initially I would get a chime and a boot start but then I would find the computer would shut itself off somewhere in the process and try to restart. Usually the next time I would get no chime and a horrible repeated clicking of my optical drive with a rythmic fan whirring up and down on the original ATI x1900 xt graphics card. I would have to manually power off with the power button to make it stop. Sometimes it would try to restart again anyway. The only way I could get a chime again was to unplug and wait (longer the better). But even if i got a chime and a start of a boot, invariably the computer would turn off again.
I couldn't boot from another source, I couldn't run apple hardware test, I couldn't run diagnostic,... it just wouldn't stay on to do it.
I hauled my mac pro (out of warranty) to the apple store genius bar and the problem presented itself, continuously. The gent was able to get fsck to work long enough to determine my hard drive was ok and said it was one of three things - the power supply, the graphics card, or the logic board. He said because the comp powered on and then shut off, and because there was intermittent chiming, he didn't think it was the power supply. He thought it was the graphics card and said I could leave my Mac for 10 days and they could take a looksy, or I could just install a new graphics card on my own.
I chose the latter, bought a ATI Radeon 5770 from the apple online store for $275 and installed it.
Problem persists.Exactly the same as before. Got initial chime, then next time no chime, optical drives clicking and graphics card fan whirring up and down rhythmically.
I had a touch of time to disconnect everything and I get a chime consistently now when I have my boot drive, graphics card, 4 gb ram, and monitor attached. (As well as wireless mouse, keyboard, trackpad). I even got to logon once only to have a prompt shut off and restart attempt. also I verified it was at least one optical drive clicking (when I removed them both) during these boot attempts.
The improvement in chiming seemed to be when I unseated one ram riser ( I have to with 2 x 2g ram modules each).
I also checked the diagnostic leds on the logic board and all was as it should be... says I got trickle power and rail power etc.
Is there anything else I can do to determine what's wrong? What do you guys think is wrong? Could it be bad RAM? Power Supply? Logic Board?
All your help is massively appreciated in advance!

Well I ran as many tests as I could with no definitive results to the point I would have to start buying replacement parts and testing that way. I opted to take it back to the apple store and they said it's (dun dun dun dunnnnn) the logic board.

I have a 1st Gen Time Capsule 1tb. It turns on, boots up and turns green for 5-10 mins, but then turns solid orange and then blinks orange. I have removed the hard drive and replaced the power supply . . . still the same problem. Suggestions?

I purchased a used 1st Gen Time Capsule with a 1 tb hard drive.
When I plugged it in and did the initial setup, it worked fine, but gave me a hard drive error. A few minutes later the green light turned solid orange, then blinking orange, then the status light went off. The lights in back stayed on.
I removed the hard drive and rebooted, it turned green for 5-10 minutes then reverted back to a solid orange, blinking orange, then went off.
Next I purchased a remanufactured internal power supply, and installed it (without the hard drive in). It turned green almost immediately. After about 15-20 minutes, I decided to try to install the hard drive again, booted it up, and tried to erase the hard drive with was working properly according to the software. It stopped erasing the disc after about 20 minutes and turned solid orange again, then blinking, then no status light (but back lights were still lit).
I'm a bit flabbergasted at this point, any suggestions on what to do next? I think i've pretty much replaced everything except the logic board, but can't seem to find any information on the symptoms of a logic board malfunction.
Thanks!!!!!!!

A Gen3 is identical board to a Gen4 although they have some differences in firmware and wireless card was updated on every model.. but a Gen3 is substantially faster than Gen1, Gen2 which also have identical boards.
You can with careful shopping get a Gen3 pretty cheap.
Most use a delta power supply which I think is a lot better than the flextronics used in most Gen1/2
You can sell back the parts to ebay.. people still would buy the power supply etc. Even just the case can be useful to a repairer.
But if the board is gone.. it is hard to repair.. not impossible.. but hard.
Gen 3 and Gen 4 are not without faults.
See this page.
https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair/new-issue-with-a1355-gen-3-tc
I have fixed it a different way.. by using the small converters you can buy in bulk from ebay for $1 each.. KIS3R33 .. they produce 3.3V at 2A peaking at 3A.. amazing.. I keep using them to replace onboard power converters by removing the inductor and simply power directly.. the end result has worked great. You can simply change the resistors around and get any output from 1v to 20v depending on input.
Is it worth doing it .. no of course not.. it will waste many more hours than $50 is worth.. but it is kind of fun that you can actually make things work again.
Here is a pic of the Gen 3 totally powered by me. All onboard power removed.
This was to track down the fault in the Gen3.. but I am kind of pleased that it ended up neat enough and reliable enough to work for more than a year.. the Gen3 still serves as a way to get Netflix via network for a friend running 24/7.
The units supply (from left to right)
1v, 1.1v, 3.3v, 5v, 1.8v
It is feed by 12v supply which is also directly connected to the hard disk.
So it is possible to fix.. !! Only got to be a bit crazy.

First windows only safe mode boots. Now system won't power up. :(

First A Hearty Thank You
First of all, thank you all for helping me with my issues here( https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=50738&sid=&hilight=Bamaboy ). And thanks Bas for the heads up on the 1 Gig of RAM thing with Windows98. That's one possibility I hadn't even considered. (But it still seems strange that it would even go into safe-mode witth the 1gig, does it not? )
But A Whole New Gremlin Rises To Challenge Me
But now I have a whole new issue that may prevent me from even trying your suggestions from before. While experimenting on different ways to get my system running, I took off one of the front panel USB connectors and inserted the D-Bracket thingie, and the system booted once normally (well, normal meaning I could access the BIOS/Windows Safe mode, etc ). And after that, it won't boot at all!
*sigh*
How do I kill THIS Gremlin?
Does anyone have any idea what the problem could have been? I didn't smell anything fun, so I don't think anything fried, but I could be wrong. I've tried turning off and disconnecting the power supply, but nothing. The fan don't come on, and I don't hear anything powering up at all.
Any ideas?

Not sure exactly what I did to do the trick. I unplugged one of the front panel USB connectors as suggested, and I turned off and unplugged the PSU and restarted. And everything powered up! I still have no idea why this worked, but I'm not complaining.
Now I'm at least back to square one of trying to figure out how to get Win98 to load up.

Problem with NEW H520 when installed new power supply & graphic card. Please help!

My H520 was working perfectly and was running FAST..especially when rebooting. ( It was AWESOME! )Then I installed a new power supply (Coolmax 400w) and a new graphic card (Sapphire Radeon HD6450) and then everything changed. Now my computer is booting very SLOWLY and all the programs are taking a long time to load too. I was getting a black screen for almost a full 2 minutes before the windows 8.0 screen would finally load up and then it hangs there for a few seconds and finally goes to the start screen in windows. But BEFORE I installed this new hardware, when I would reboot, I would see the Lenovo splash screen come up for a few short seconds and then it instantly went to the windows welcome screen. And even then I would barely have enough time to see the welcome screen before it instantly loaded into the windows start screen. Everything would load up fast on the desktop too and we'd be good to go. It all took about 30 SECONDS.
But now? It takes MINUTES to get everything going. After it FINALLY loads up (it takes almost 2 full minutes now!), everything hangs up. When you first click on the desktop, it takes a few seconds for all of the icons to pop up. Before I loaded the new hardware, everything loaded up instantly. I didn't even see the icons load because they were already there. But now I have to wait for them to load up before I can even see them. And it's like that with every program and web browser I try to use now. Everything hangs up at first and then finally loads. The programs work but they are sluggish.
So I uninstalled the new power supply and put back in the original 280w power supply and I took out the graphic card but it did no change. The machine is STILL running slow on everything it does and booting very slowly.
I have seen this problem mentioned elsewhere about Lenovo computers but there is never a solution. Please help! It took me a long time to save up for this computer and I have been babying it ever since. I will never be able to afford a new one or pay for tech repair. I need to fix this! I was so thrilled with this computer before the hardware upgrade. This is devastating to me that it is working so poorly now when all I was trying to do was upgrade it a little bit.    Now it's performing horribly and it's only 6 months old.
I ran a four hour test on the hard drive and it is fine. I ran all the system clean ups, optimizations, registry cleanups, windows disk cleaner, defragger and virus scans. Nothing is showing up as not working but there is CLEARLY a problem. It was never this slow.   And why is it STILL acting this slow even after I uninstalled all of the new hardware that made it start acting this way and went back to the original setup?
I'm trying to run a memory test on it now but the BIOS will NOT allow me to select another drive to boot from so I can't boot from the flash drive or CD drive to run the memory test. I have NO IDEA what to do next and I am starting to pull my hair out in frustration.
Please, is there anything that can be done to make it better again?
Any help would be HUGELY appreciated. Thank you!
Sincerely,
Jennifer

I totally give up!! I restored everything to the ORIGINAL state with drivers AND hardware and STILL everything is not working properly like it was BEFORE the upgrade.
So this has been the WORST experience with Tech support EVER!! I have spent DAYS on the phone for HOURS with these technicians and nobody seems to know what they are doing. They put me on hold every 10 minutes and are gone for 10 to 15 minutes and when they come back, they seem all set on a new solution but when you ask them questions about it, they have NO CLUE how to answer and then they put you on hold again. Nothing gets solved and after HOURS on the phone, I just tell them to stop because we are getting no where but running around in circles that make no sense. THIS A NIGHTMARE!!
So I totally gave up on being able to upgrade this machine. To any future buyers, I STRONGLY recommend you do all upgrading BEFORE you get it home for the first time. Make sure you have your power supply and graphic card INCLUDED before you bring it home or you're mostly likely going to have a NIGHTMARE upgrading it later.    Technical support is a HORROR STORY and expect to be WAITING for LOOOOONNNNG periods of time both ON THE PHONE and ONLINE and probably ending up with NO SOLUTION in the end.
I've VERY upset with how this turned out!! I'm just gonna have to deal with the fact that my computer is permenantly messed up and NOBODY AT LENOVO knows how to fix it. So I'm stuck.
I decided to send back the new power supply and the new graphic card because of this nightmare with tech support. I put everything back to the way it was when I bought the computer and it is STILL acting up!! I just want to revert it back to factory settings .. INCLUDING THE BIOS... but Lenovo said I have to send the WHOLE computer back to them to do that. All I can do from home is restore from a point in the hard drive and that's not enough. I need a TOTAL CLEAN INSTALL. Everything needs to be wiped out and reset, not just restored to a previous restore point. I've done this multiple times and all it does is erase all the programs and stuff I put on the computer. The drivers and other codes are still the same. And then bugs come up and things get all wonky. I NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE I TRIED TO UPGRADE IT!!
I am NOT comfortable with Lenovo's "solution". I do NOT want to send my computer back to them for them to reset it with factory disks ESPECIALLY when they stated that they are NOT responsible for any damage in transport or otherwise. I have to buy extra packaging to make sure it gets there safely. They told me to use the original box and packaging, that is the only way they can be sure it will get there safe. Who has the original stuffing SIX MONTHS LATER?!?! I don't want to be sending my computer across the country to get jostled all over the place and have that add to the slowness of the hardware because it was jostled.
Can't I reset it from home? Can they not send ME the disks instead of me sending my whole computer to them?
I'm so incredibly frustrated with this. I hope somebody answers quickly and that I don't have to wait DAYS to get a response again.
I absolutely LOVED my Lenovo computer! And then I tried to upgrade it. BIG MISTAKE!! Now everything is totally messed up and Lenovo's customer support for technical problems is HORRID!!
Somebody please help. This is driving me crazy with frustration and totally breaking my heart. It took me a VERY long time to save up for this computer and it was my most loved possession. It was a reward for a lot of hard times and now it's all broken and acting slow. And it's only 6 months old.
Is there a solution to this very frustrating problem?
I just want it to go back to the way it was before.
And is there a very low cost KNOWN TO WORK WITH THIS MACHINE upgraded graphic card and power supply? Is there a very specific brand and make? If so, could you let me know what it is in case I try to upgrade it again someday?
Thank you for your time and for reading this!
Please have a FANTASTIC day today!!
~Jennifer~

Ongoing System Freezing problems, won't Boot from CD, HELP!

Three weeks ago, my system started freezing after about 20 minutes of use --completely stuck while not running anything more taxing than internet browser-- and then the infamous fans kick on and the thing sounds like its going to take off. I eliminate possible conflicts w/ peripherals with no improvement, back up my files and trot 100+ miles to the nearest Genius (which is questionable). They diagnose it as the power supply/logic board issue, replace both --the second time that they have been replaced-- and send me back home, smiling blissfully.
Until I plug it in, and it does the same thing. I live with it for a week, then load it back up for another 200+ mile roundtrip back to the same Genius, who keeps it for a week, claims that he has run every test known to Apple and can't find anything wrong. His suggestion: new surge protector. So I make the 3rd trip to go pick it up, buy the heavy duty super charged surge protector, plug everything up, and ..... you guessed it. Same ol' same ol'.
So torn between crying and cursing, I get on the phone and call apple support. After close to two hours on hold in the Que (I could have drove to the Apple Store in less time) in which I speak to a live person who transfers me to another who cuts me off as soon as they pick up the phone and I have to get back in the que to repeat the exercise in patience, I get a hold of someone that says, well it might be hardware or it might be software-- try running the hardware test first and if that doesn't give you an error, reformat your hard drive, reload the OS, and then your software and see if that doesn't fix it.
So now, I really am about to cry... but I suck it up and start to do the deed. Except.... I can't get the hardware test or anything else to boot from the CD. I try my disk, I try my son's disk. Nada. Zip. Won't boot at all from the CD. One disk says "hold down the C key," one says "D key." Doesn't matter, neither works. It will restart but forget the CD.
Here's the help part: what next? Is this an indication that its a software problem? Is there something else I can do? Or am I doomed to make another 200+ round trip to the Genius Bar? Frankly, I think I'm ready to drive in the other direction to the next closest Apple Store, but...
I'm so tired and frustrated!! Out of the last 14 days, this <edited by host> has been in the service department for 9 days and I've logged 700+/- miles trying to get it fixed. Between the lost time cost, gas and repairs (the $800 for the most recent repair and the $1000+ the first time around that thankfully were on Apple), I could have bought a top of the line new Mac and still had $$$ left over for a nice dinner!
PLEASE! Any suggestions?!

Hi Stellaadora-
A call to Customer Relations at 1-800-767-2775 may be useful. Be firm yet polite and explain the situation and have them open up a case number. This is not Apple Service,but more like the overseers. It may also be useful to research the Consumer Protection Laws in your state. Three attempts to repair it in MA and you get a new machine.
My guess is that they will have you try someone else. I know I would.
Certainly the store is not duplicating your 20 minutes of web-browsing. It could be something to do with networking. Have you tried disconnecting from the internet and doing something else for a while to see if it still locks up?
Luck-
-DaddyPaycheck

Mac Pro won't start; power supply problems?

Hi friends, I'm having some very inconvenient hardware problems. My Mac Pro system will not start up. I have done some preliminary searching for similar issues, and it seems there are too many possible outcomes for me to tell directly from their answers. I'm writing in hopes that someone has had the same experience and can offer advice.
Here's my symptoms.
• Mac Pro system, late 2009. Dual Quad-core Intel Xenon, I think. (I usually just go to System Profile, rather than memorise this crap.) Two internal drives (SSD for system, HDD for data); all other hardware standard.
• Power light indicator is solid white. No blinking.
• No startup chime and no audio bleeps
• Display is dark, no activity of any kind.
• This behaviour persists with no network connections, no hardware peripherals outside of Apple Studio display and its associated USB cable (which allows the keyboard)
Do we suspect it's the power supply? It seems to power on, and clicks to life as it does after waking from sleep, but doesn't boot. Pressing the power button again shuts down the machine instantly — no 5-second-hold required.
It could be the RAM, I guess. I have yet to do the diagnosis of removing DIMM pairs one-by-one to see if something is the problem.
Any advice you can offer is great. Thanks

There are LEDs adjacent to the RAM positions that, when lit, indicate a bad DIMM.
The side door is not interlocked, and there are no hazardous Voltages available to your unaided fingers, but components may be HOT.
A Bad DIMM will not preclude Booting. Your Mac will note the defect and attempt to boot without that DIMM. And 2009 DIMMs are independent, so losing one does not take out any others.

K8N Neo Power/Boot Problems!

Yo to all, i have recently bought for my pc at home ( i semi-own a pc store ) and i have decided to upgrade my previous amd 2600 barton.
Well i ordered a MSI K8N Neo Platinum + 54g ( wlan ) and an AMD 64 3200+.
Now when the package came i installed them to my case and it worked fine, so i packed it and went home to install it to its previous place, but unfortunately it never powered-up. I saw that when i entered the 12pin PSU cables on mb the light from the network card blinked one time and thats it , it didnt work. After more tries i saw that when i semi-entered the 12pin cable the fans start spinning with no booting process and the d-bracket was constantly red.
So i called the company and i got a replacement, but the problem now is :
The pc works only if it closes from software termination, if i pull the plug out or the power cuts off it stays inactive for like 10 mins before it can power up again, meaning that i have to leave it open all the time.
I repeat if you didnt understand. When i boot , if the power goes off or i closed it via the pc's button it wont be powered on for the next 10-15mins, the only way to boot is to successfully boot and shut it down via windows/linux.
I dont know what this means , havent seen it before.
Its not my PSU , it is tested and works great on other motherboards.
If anyone can help me with this i would be gladful, although i want to believe that the next bios patch will cover this as i cant send the mb back and wait for another 3-4weeks.
Best Regards,
Sedde

Ok havent seen this problem before on this board but this is whats happening, all motherboards are made with a thermal switch on the board (as well as one built into the psu) it used to be on cheaper boards when they use cheaper components if you turn off a computer by power failiure on off switch or just pulling the plug out of the back the switch will trip just like an rcd. The system holds the risidual current for about 10 minutes (you can bleed it faster by using foil or removing the onboard battery and resetting the bios) The problem is probably a faulty thermal rcd circuit, this problem can be caused by a to high output power supply but is more likley a manafacturing fault. You should have no problem with an RMA on the board as their technicians will recognise it. However it is worth trying it quickly before you RMA it, try it on a lower output psu i.e 350w with about 18amps on the 12v. If this doesnt work return it as faulty.
Hope this helps

Power supply problems

I'm currently running a 300W non-branded crappy power supply, the voltages are shown below. The problem is, the fan has pretty much given up the ghost and is making an outrageously load noise, I tried replacing it, firstly with 2 different types of Antec 350W powersupplys, both of which had to be sent back, and cost me loads of money doing so, now I've tried a non-branded 500W powersupply, but all have had the same problem: - They appear to begin to power up the system, the fans start for a second, then they stop, as if the PSU doesn't have enough juice to run things. It runs the system when I unplug the external power on the graphics card, but it won't run the graphics card on its own.
I guess this suggests it is more likely a graphics card problem, but if any of you guys have any ideas I'd be greatful. I don't see why a higher Power PSU would power the system when a much lower one would.
The 500W power supply voltages are:
+5V - 40A
+12V - 17A
+3.3V - 28A

I'm not sure what a D-bracket is mate. I've sent an e-mail to ATI to see if they know of any issues with certain power supplys, in the mean time I solved the problem by taking the fan out of the 500W power supply and putting it in my old 300W one not an ideal solution to the problem but at least I don't have to put up with that horrible grinding noise anymore!
Cheers for the help mate.

System Boot problems / Power supply? Antec Neopower.

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