T400 boots in low res, then changes to high res once windows boots
when i boot windows vista it boots into a low resolution, and makes everything bigger. Once windows boots up the screen flickers and it changes to a higher resolution. how do I make it stay in the higher resolution?
T400
Intel® Core™2 Duo T9400 2.53 GHz__Windows 7 Professional__3GB Memory__160GB, 7200RPM Hard Drive__14.1” WXGA+TFT-CFL__ATI Mobility Radeon™ HD 3470--
This appears to be the solution (at least, it is for me). I can apply my changes to the low-resolution proxy by saving the mesh and then applying that same mesh to the high-resolution image. The large brush sizes (in comparison to the image resolution) that I am afforded in the low-res version are brought across to the high-res because the changes are not applied as brush strokes, but rather as alterations to an overall mesh. the changes to the mesh are what is transferred when I export and import.
Applying the mesh is pretty slow, and it requires a few tweaks at the high-res level, but it gets me 95% of the way there. I think this is workable.
To recap - here are the steps:
1) I make a low-resolution version of the image (like 1200px wide)
2) I make my edits to the image using Liquify
3) before committing the Liquify changes, I "Save Mesh" in the Liquify tool
4) I open my high-resolution image
5) I use liquify, but I do not use any brushes, but in stead load my saved mesh from the low-res
6) profit.
thanks for the help folks!
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Similar Messages
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Can you edit in Low Res then conform to High Res
A producer told me she wanted to edit in Low Res, then do an online to replace the sequence with High Res media. I haven't done this since I started using Final Cut: I've edited in High Res all along.
Is it necessary? And how would it be done? Many thanks for any knowledge you can share.ProRes 422 is a mastering codec. It's is a format that you do convert many camera formats into. But it is a full resolution mastering codec. Tutorial? No...but the manual:
http://documentation.apple.com/en/finalcutpro/usermanual/#chapter=2%26section=2% 26hash=apple_ref:doc:uid:TempBookID-ReplacedWhenAssociatingWithMessierRevision-4 4032FMT-1008869
http://documentation.apple.com/en/finalcutpro/usermanual/#chapter=C%26section=12 %26hash=apple_ref:doc:uid:TempBookID-ReplacedWhenAssociatingWithMessierRevision- 44035VDF-1013573
https://documentation.apple.com/en/finalcutpro/professionalformatsandworkflows/i ndex.html#chapter=10%26section=3%26tasks=true
How did he deal with all that video? Well, he had HUNDREDS of hours...adding up to 54TB. So he had to work on the project in sections, with 12TB loaded at a time. It was tricky, but far less tricky than offline/online would have been. Less time consuming too...all the time to convert ALL of that footage to offline resolution, long time.
You're iMac is plenty powerful for ProRes. My 7 year old MacPro could deal with it fine, and your machine is more powerful. -
Editing low-res proxy, then applying changes to high-res
Hello
I'm developing one continuous image for a large wall that will be seen from about 1-2 feet viewing distance. It has to be about 100 dpi.
My image is currently 21,600 x 8100 pixels at 8 bits CMYK. It may get bigger. I don't have to do much manipulation, but a lot of it is using brushes and the smudge tool.
2 issues:
1) I have a 12-core Mac Pro with 24GB RAM. The smudge tool is sloooooow when working on this image (like one smudge at max brush size takes 15-20 seconds to take effect).
2) IS there a "warp mesh" tool that I can use in place of the smudge tool?
Is there a way for me to edit a lower-resolution version of this image, then apply the changes I made to the high-res version? then I can use the smudge and brush tools and finessé my work without the machine bogging down, and the imagery will look correct. I'm looking for a way to use these tools more in real time while working with this big image.This appears to be the solution (at least, it is for me). I can apply my changes to the low-resolution proxy by saving the mesh and then applying that same mesh to the high-resolution image. The large brush sizes (in comparison to the image resolution) that I am afforded in the low-res version are brought across to the high-res because the changes are not applied as brush strokes, but rather as alterations to an overall mesh. the changes to the mesh are what is transferred when I export and import.
Applying the mesh is pretty slow, and it requires a few tweaks at the high-res level, but it gets me 95% of the way there. I think this is workable.
To recap - here are the steps:
1) I make a low-resolution version of the image (like 1200px wide)
2) I make my edits to the image using Liquify
3) before committing the Liquify changes, I "Save Mesh" in the Liquify tool
4) I open my high-resolution image
5) I use liquify, but I do not use any brushes, but in stead load my saved mesh from the low-res
6) profit.
thanks for the help folks!
--------------S -
Transfering star rating from a low res folder to a high res folder in bridge?
I am wondering if anyone has ever needed to do this or am i the only one?
I have a folder of low res images that have been rated with stars in bridge. I'd like to move these star ratings to another folder of CR2 files that are the exact same file names except they are CR2 and not JPEG's.
Any way to do this?
At the end of the day i have about 1500 images that have been "selected" and i want to pull these same high res images out of the 4000+ images in the high res folder. Any help you can give would be great.
Thanks a bunch.
incase you are wondering why not just rate the high res...Shooting wirelessly to laptop, my client is making the low res images as their selects and then later i'll deliver only these as high res.
Thanks again!I am wondering if anyone has ever needed to do this or am i the only one?
I recognize this question but I'm afraid that was about many other situations...
Maybe you can ask in the Adobe Bridge Scripting forum if someone has a solution for this but in my experience the time looking or learning for a solution exceeds the time then just bite the bullet and start picking them manual (and don't forget to charge the client for the hours, but you are right, it is better to have a simple solution and yet still charge hours)
I would start to select the rated files in Bridge and add a clear visible label to all the files and then drop (or copy) the lot in the HiRes folder,
Select sort order by filename (or even try date created) and just start clicking on the files next to the labeled jpeg files with holding down cmd key (on a Mac, don't know the windows but this key keeps adding only the clicked files to a selection. Every 10 or 20 files hit a rating or labeling key so you can filter those files later on in the process to only keep the wanted HiRes files in view.
When done choose the filer panel to view only CR2 and label / rating and you have the wanted selection.
Yes it takes a bit time but so does finding out a solution. If you have to deal with it more often you better try the scripting option immediately. -
I'll warn you I amd not I-phone savy at all...I don't know which I phone I have and am not near it at the moment to see what it says on the cover..got it in the fall of 2011. I guess I must have synced hot mail with it and now it's locked and I can't use my phone at all. I've reentered numerous times making sure that caps are caps, etc. Will attempt to reset hotmail password again and see if a new one will work. I was able to do this one time.
If you have set up an iCloud account you will see Delet Account at the bottom (see image below). If you don't, you haven't set up iCloud.
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MOVED: 770-C45 Will only boot into OS at rams in 800Mhz higher it freezes in boot :(
This topic has been moved to AMD64 ATI/SiS/VIA boards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=135291.0This topic has been moved to AMD64 ATI/SiS/VIA boards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=135291.0 -
Script to save out PDFs in High Res and Low Res and name them accordingly?
Hello
I'm on Indesign version 9.1. I previously had a script for this and have since had my mac wiped and re-installed (big company rules). So, here I am asking if someone can help me again..
Basically I have to create artwork and nearly every time I have to export it as a 150dpi LOW RES version and then a 300dpi HIGH RES version with time marks, bleed, etc. I then end the file name with either LR.pdf or HR.pdf. I have presets for these and obviously, it's not the worst thing in the world having to scroll down menus, etc but this is maybe up to 50 times a day. I used to be able to select an icon on my desktop (or wherever) then I used Indesign scripting and automator on the mac to press a kay command and it'd open the document, then save it out as the two designated PDFs, then close it.
Can anyone help me on this?
I can probably search on here for the previous thread asked and the script given to me...Adding somthing like below to Script 2 pdf outputs?
var myLayer = app.documents.item(0).layers.item("Background");
myLayer.visible = true -
Replace low res footage with high res?
Can anyone tell me or is there a tutorial that shows how to take low res preview footage and replace it with the high res files for final output? In my case the high res file names have slightly different numbers. Is there a way to just change them to match the preview footage and be done? Doesn't seem to work for me. Tried relinking with no luck. I get: "Incompatible file. The original file and new file have no shared media range.Relinked files must have the same media type, same frame rate, and similar audio channels as the original files, and must be long enough to cover all the clips that reference the files." Seems like this shoould be a slam dunk!
I was using archival footage and only had low res previews to work with. Now that the project is approved I can buy the actual footage and complete for output. Is this different from replacing watermaked low stock footage with unmarked high res? Should I have set up the time stamped low res as proxie? Please don't tell me I'm back to square one.....
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Efibootmgr & gummiboot replaced UEFI entry for Windows Boot Manager
TLDR
I am now in Windows 7 and dual boot with Arch is working fine.
But before I update Arch, I would like to understand what happened, as in why adding an efibootmgr entry for Arch replaced/deleted the Windows Boot Manager entry although I followed the BG.
The status of my UEFI boot menu was, before the installation of Arch:
Windows Boot Manager
AHCI HDJ... (hard drive 1)
AHCI ST... (hard drive 2)
While working through the BG, I decided to use gummiboot=> https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Be … #Gummiboot. So:
pacman -S gummiboot
gummiboot install
pacman -S efibootmgr
gummiboot install
[some error ocurred, as mentioned in red box]
efibootmgr -c -L "Gummiboot" -l /EFI/gummiboot/gummibootx64.efi
nano /boot/loader/entries/arch.conf
title Arch Linux
linux /vmlinuz-linux
initrd /initramfs-linux.img
options root=/dev/sdb3 ro
[CTRL + X, Y, Enter]
exit
umount /mnt/{boot,home,}
reboot
I then saw a new list of the UEFI boot order:
Gummiboot
AHCI HDJ... (hard drive 1)
AHCI ST... (hard drive 2)
Chose Gummiboot and it brought up a gummiboot menu with entries
Arch Linux
Windows Boot Manager
EFI Shell something
Selected Arch Linux and it went to a message something along "boot device ' ' not found" and I was in a shell which was, I think, rootfs.
I rebooted via the button on my desktop and out the Arch Linux USB drive back. After mounting the partitions:
gummiboot remove
efibootmgr
[0000: Windows Boot Manager
[0001: Arch Linux
[0002: AHCI HDJ...
[0003: AHCI ST...
exit
umount /mnt/{boot,home,}
reboot
Now I booted into a black screen with white text which said something "Reboot and select proper Boot device"
=> Inserted Win 7 64-bit DVD, repaired the boot sector. Rebooted, saw I had these entries again:
Windows Boot Manager
AHCI HDJ... (hard drive 1)
AHCI ST... (hard drive 2)
The boot into Windows worked fine. Rebooted, chrooted into my install again and:
efibootmgr
[0000: Arch Linux
[0001: Windows Boot Manager
[0003: AHCI HDJ...
[0003: AHCI ST...
efibootmogr -b 0 -B
Then I used the EFISTUB method:
efibootmgr -c -L "Arch Linux" -l /vmlinuz-linux -u "root=/dev/sdb3 ro initrd=/initramfs-linux.img"
efibootmgr
[0000: Windows Boot Manager
[0001: Arch Linux
[0002: AHCI HDJ...
[0003: AHCI ST...
exit
umount /mnt/{boot,home,}
reboot
On reboot, 'Windows Boot Manager' was again replaced by 'Arch Linux'.
=> Inserted Win 7 64-bit DVD, repaired the boot sector.
Rebooted, I have now Windows Boot Manager + Arch Linux and dual boot works now.
My questions:
What is going on with efibootmgr replacing/deleting the Windows entry? Is there something wrong with my UEFI menu?
In connection with 1., I would like to sync the EFISTUB Kernel (wiki entry) before I run pacman -Syu. Can I do that now?
Can I uninstall gummiboot now?
Last edited by jones (2013-07-11 12:30:55)henrik wrote:So in light of your post, I decided to ditch EFISTUB + gummiboot and try out GRUB. Thanks for clearing it up a bit. Which is what confuses me a great deal more, as GRUB/gummiboot obviously do not meddle with Microsoft's EFI files. Right?
EFI relies on two things to boot:
Boot loader program files on the ESP (or occasionally elsewhere).
NVRAM entries pointing to the boot loader files.
Your own problems seem to be with the NVRAM entries, not with the boot loader files themselves. Unfortunately, managing those NVRAM entries has proven to be problematic because of bugs in specific EFI implementations, bugs in efibootmgr and other tools that manipulate the NVRAM entries, poor documentation, and other factors.
To answer your question, though, no boot loader should mess with another's files. Such things can happen, though. The number of bugs that cause Microsoft's boot loader (EFI/Microsoft/Boot/bootmgfw.efi) to be treated deferentially have provoked some tools to use it as a target location for other boot loaders. (Ubuntu's Boot Repair tool does this in a rather overzealous way. So does my own rEFInd installer script, but only under certain narrow circumstances.) Also, the EFI/BOOT/bootx64.efi file is a special case; it's the fallback bootloader that's used when NVRAM entries are missing or don't work, and various boot loader installation procedures place copies in that location, so it can be overwritten and could contain just about anything.
However, the whole thing happened again with GRUB. So I did the whole "repairing Boot problems" with the Windows DVD rescue thingy again and deleted all non-Microsoft files from the EFI partition, /dev/sda1.
Then I formatted / (root) and installed arch again and followed the Beginners' Guide which suggest mounting /dev/sda1/ to /mnt/boot (in contrast to the GRUB entry where the ESP should be mounted to /mnt/boot/efi).
I strongly advise against doing a complete re-installation just to overcome a boot loader problem. Instead, figure out what the problem is and fix it. Doing a complete re-installation is not likely to fix anything, and depending on precisely how you do it, you could end up with a more complex problem. The reason is that the re-installation is not likely to erase the NVRAM entries from the old installation, so you could find that you've got additional stray NVRAM entries. If you do happen to fix the problem by re-installing (say, because you selected a different installation option), you're not likely to know what changed to fix the problem, so you could end up in the same boat should you need to re-install again in the future.
But it did not show this line
Found Windows 7 (loader) on /dev/sda1
... how come??
I've given up trying to understand GRUB's configuration scripts. You could try creating an entry manually by editing /etc/grub.d/40_custom; or you could forget about using the GRUB scripts and create a hand-crafted grub.cfg; or you could forget about using GRUB at all. I'm not a fan of GRUB, so my personal choice is the final one.
So for all the headache and time ... should I delete the EFI partition and recreate it maybe? I think it's possible using the Windows 7 DVD.
But somehow using efibootmgr on my UEFI list somehow invalidated the Windows entry.
Reviewing your posts, it seems that you want to use the EFI stub loader directly, but you're having problems with that because when you add it to the NVRAM entries, Windows drops off your boot manager's boot options. The obvious solution to this problem is to forget about adding the EFI stub loader directly to the NVRAM entries, and instead add a boot manager that can handle either a Linux kernel or the Windows boot loader. (IMHO, this is the superior solution anyhow; I disagree with the Arch wiki's emphasis on using the EFI stub loader "raw.") It seems you were trying to do this with GRUB but had problems booting Windows. Earlier you tried gummiboot but had problems booting Linux. My suggestion is to either go back to gummiboot and fix its problem or try rEFInd. The "device not found" error you reported with gummiboot is usually caused by either a missing (or incorrectly-specified) initrd file or by an incorrectly-specified "root=" option passed to the kernel. Check those possitilities, and if you need help, report what happens in more detail. If necessary, take a digital photo of the screen and post it here. (Make sure it's legible, though!)
You can try rEFInd with minimal disk by using a CD-R or USB flash drive image. Boot with that and your NVRAM and ESP won't be affected at all. If you can get rEFInd working from the flash drive, you can then install it to your hard disk and it should continue working. Note that you probably won't be able to boot Linux directly from rEFInd with your current configuration without adding a "root=" specification to the kernel command line. You can do this by hitting F2 or Insert twice rather than launching Linux by pressing Enter. Alternatively, you can create a refind_linux.conf file in the directory that holds your kernel. That file's contents are described in the rEFInd documentation. -
High Res image in photoshop cs5
This may seem a simple issue , but i want to make a picture that is 140mm by 170mm using an existing hi res image , i've put the sizes into a new document in ps.
I then dragged the high res photo i need into photshop, the photo is 6144pxl by 4113pxl so is very large, but when i drag it to PS it goes really small about a quarter of the size of the new document template, i then drag the image to to my new correct sized document template but i have to enlarge it , which in turn makes it go blurred.
What am i doing wrong? i thought that as it is so big i would have to make it smaller to fit and it would be easy?
I hope you can help me
Regard's
CraigIt is a physical problem that is very easy to understand. The image below represent the letter o drawn using 3x3 pixels. Can you draw it on less than 3x3 pixels and still be recognizable?
While this is an exaggerated example and if displayed with the size of monitor pixels the letter won't be legible anyway because of the tiny size, the example shows the nature of the problem. The characters in a font have details that need a certain number of pixels to be displayed as intended. When using editable text, if the number of pixels available for the display of the font is low then the font technology uses a trick called font hinting which optimizes the font for smaller sizes and this is not possible if you text is rasterized and not editable. -
Premiere Elements 9 - editing in low-res then rendering in HD
Hi all,
Just started using Adobe Premiere Elements 9, editing together a 3 minute music video (so not an epic!). Half way throughand having all sorts of problems as the footage is running slowly or not running at all.
Just bought a brand new laptop with i5 core processor, 4 G RAM and 7,200 rpm, so don't think hardware is the problem.
Question 1.
How can I edit in a low res version and then render in HD (is this called editing by proxy?)? A friend with Premiere Pro said there should be a very simple button that does this. It would seem a basic requirement of any video-editing software. But I can't find how to do it and the only internet search have brought up very confusing and long-winded processes.
Question 2.
Having trouble rendering. I tried rendering as a WMV and the image was very pixilated even though it looks fine on the editing screen. File size was also huge and computer struggled to render it. Also tried FLV, which didn't work at all.
Would appreciate help as I've put hours into the editing process already.
Many thanks,
Christina>don't think hardware is the problem.
If you want to open and edit a single photoshop picture file... you are fine
For video (which is, in effect, 30 picture files per second, plus sound) you are not fine at all
Trying to use only ONE Hard Drive for Video Editing
You are a music conductor, with a baton that you use to point to various parts of the orchestra... this is like Windows pointing to various parts of the hard drive to do Windows housekeeping or to load program segments for various functions
Now, at the same time and with the same hand... while still using the baton to conduct the orchestra... pick up a bow and play a fiddle... this would be doing something with your video file at the same time as all the other work
You as a person cannot do both at the same time with the same hand
A computer is a LITTLE better, in that it can switch from one kind of task to another very quickly... but not quickly enough for EASY video editing
You need AT LEAST two hard drives (separate drives, never a partition http://forums.adobe.com/thread/650708?tstart=0 for more) with Windows (or Mac OS) and software on your boot drive, and video files on a 2nd drive so the boot drive is not slowed down by trying to do everything
I find that the three drives I use work very well for me, for editing AVCHD video... some people use a 4th drive, so video INPUT files are on drive three and all OUTPUT files are on drive four... I only bought a mid-tower case instead of a full tower case (my bad... but had to fit in the space available on my office desk!) so I use the three drives that will fit
Depending on your exact hardware (motherboard brand & model AND USB2 enclosure brand & model AND external hard drive brand & model) AND the type of video file, you may... or may NOT... be able to use an external USB2 hard drive for video editing
Steve Grisetti in the Premiere Elements forum http://forums.adobe.com/thread/856208?tstart=0 and Jim Simon in the Premiere Pro forum http://forums.adobe.com/thread/856433?tstart=0 use USB externals for editing
A USB3 hard drive connected to a motherboard with USB3 is supposed to be fast enough for video editing (I don't have such, so don't know) but eSata DOES have a fast enough data transfer for video editing... I have not used this eSata Dock... for reference only, YMMV and all the usual disclaimers
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS/ref=cm_cmu_pg_ t -
Why does "Print Booklet" from Indesign CS5.5 only create low res pdf? How do I get High Res for Offs
Long time ID user in Agency. Created a simple 4 page brochure in CS5.5 ID. Facing pages for cust size 11x17 half fold document.
Generating the pdf for Press and HQ Print renders a nice high res document, but the print booklet feature only produces a skinny low res version. Tried to mess with the printer settings, but the result is the same with a skinny low res document.
I didn't want to recreate the brochure as a two page manually imposed as I like the option of being able to add more pages in increments of four of course. Plus it's just silly to do that when ID is supposed to handle it for me.
I worked around it this time by printing to .ps output then distilling, and then splitting the document so printer could have a "front" and "back" 11x17. But this seems kludged big time. This has to be a bug unless I am missing something.You probably never changed the default settings in the PDF printer properties. In the print booklet dialog, click the Print Settings button, then the Setup button at the bottom of the Print Dialog that pops up, choose the PDF printer and click on Preferences. Reset the default reset the default settings to the ones you really want to use, or reset them in Windows... Control Panel > Devices and Printers... Double-click the PDF printer, then from the print queue dialog, Printer > Properties... General tab and clcik the Preferences button.
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Imac wont boot it did till i changed inernet protocol all i get is apple and gear spinng
I have an 800mgz imac when I got it it booted up just fine i changed the internet from dial up tp broadband save it turn it off to connect broadband now it wont boot all i get is the apple logo and the spinning gear?
Another thing that you could try it is deleting or copying to desktop the preference files for networking. Mac OS will regenerate these files. You would then need to reconfigure your network settings.
While this discussion provides a solution for a different problem. I believe the files would be the same for all network configuration problems.
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=8185915#8185915
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=10718694#10718694
You need to get into single use mode for steps one and two that are listed below.
This page will tell you how to get into single user mode.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1492
Basically, you hold down the command-s key then powering on your machine. The command key has a little apple symbol on the lower left. It is between the alt/option key and the space bar. On a PC keyboard, it will be the windows key, I think.
( Do you know Unix. You are in a Unix single user console. ) The setup commands you need should be listed on the screen. For Mac OS 10.4.11, the commands are:
# Type the follow two instructions to access the startup disk in read/write:
/sbin/fsck -fy
/sbin/mount -uw /
The mv command is also the rename command. move within a directory.
basically :
mac $ cd /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration
/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration
mac $ ls
NetworkInterfaces.plist com.apple.nat.plist preferences.plist
mac $ pwd
/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration
mac $ mv NetworkInterfaces.plist NetworkInterfaces.plist2
mac $ mv com.apple.nat.plist com.apple.nat.plist2
mac $ mv preferences.plist preferences.plist2
mac $
Here is an overview of the terminal commands. Lets assume that your account has a short user name of mac.
Macintosh-HD -> Applications -> Utilities -> Terminal
#What is my short user name? Type the whoami command.
mac $ whoami
mac
mac $
#How to list all of your disks.
# The ls command is for list
mac $ ls /Volumes/
Audio CD Macintosh-HD Spotless Tiger-ext
mac $
# Let's say your flash drive is named Spotless
# cd is change directory
mac $ cd /Volumes/Spotless
# pwd is print working directory
mac $ pwd
/Volumes/Spotless
mac $
# The ls command is for list # l is long # F is type of file where / is directory mac $ ls -lF
total 134704
-rw-r--r-- 1 mac staff 64560 Mar 3 2009 A-picture-of-Youpi-key.png
drwxr-xr-x 83 mac staff 2822 Nov 7 14:52 Applescript files/
drwxrwxrwx 12 mac staff 408 Dec 13 2008 Christmas Cards/
drwxr-xr-x 9 mac staff 306 Dec 21 17:39 Christmas Cards 2009/
... trimmed ... What does all this mean?
drwxrwxrwx
d = directory
r = read
w = write
x = executeable program
drwxrwxrwx
| | |
| | all other users not in first two types
| |
| group
|
owner
Every Unix resource: files, folders, etc has an owner, group, other
a file has one owner.
a file has one group. A group contains a list of users.
To gain access to a file. You can be the owner, in the group, or not being the owner or in the group you ended up as other. Each of these categories has read, write, or execute permissions.
# l is long
# a is all to show hidden files & folders
mac $ ls -lFa
total 134736
drwxr-xr-x 41 mac staff 1496 Dec 22 17:11 .
drwxrwxrwt 8 root admin 272 Dec 24 13:55 ..
-rwxrwxrwx 1 mac staff 15364 Dec 23 12:52 .DS_Store*
drwx------ 4 mac staff 136 Jan 22 2009 .Spotlight-V100
drwxrwxrwt 5 mac staff 170 Sep 14 16:36 .TemporaryItems
d-wx-wx-wx 4 mac staff 136 Dec 31 1969 .Trashes
-rw-r--r-- 1 mac staff 64560 Mar 3 2009 A-picture-of-Youpi-key.png
drwxr-xr-x 83 mac staff 2822 Nov 7 14:52 Applescript files
drwxrwxrwx 12 mac staff 408 Dec 13 2008 Christmas Cards
drwxr-xr-x 9 mac staff 306 Dec 21 17:39 Christmas Cards 2009
... trimmed ...
# mv is move or rename
mv -i the-name the-new-name
# You can just rename the file back to what it was with mv command.
mv -i old-name new-name
Here is what these commands mean:
cd is change directory
pwd is a print working directory
ls is list
sudo is Super user do
mv is move or rename
For cryptic comments, you can always uses the manual command which is man. For example:
man mv
# Type the letter q to quit.
In case you have spaces in your filenames or directories, you need to escape them. See examples:
mac $ ls -l ~/"see it"
-rw-r--r-- 1 mac staff 3171 Oct 26 23:38 /Users/mac/see it
mac $
mac $ cd /Users/mac/Desktop/ttt\ html\ copy/
Do you know about tabing? Type in a few letters of a name then press the tab key. The computer will type out the rest of the name if it is unique.
Press the up arrow key to see the previous command(s).
To edit a command, use the left arror key to more left and the right arror key to move right. Use the delete key to delete the key to the left. Type a letter to insert.
history to see many previous commands.
mac $ history
2 man launchd.conf
3 history
Lots of links: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2692161&tstart=0
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2692161&tstart=0
Robert -
Hi, I'm just wondering if there is a way to automate a long process I have to do to create assets for my job.
I have a single page InDesign 6 file which I have to output three ways:
A low res pdf without bleed or trims
A high res pdf with bleed and trims
A low res jpeg downsized to 2% of original size.
If anyone knows if this is possible I'd love to hear from you.
Thanks in advanceAutomation requires creating your own IDML script for output. Scroll down on this page to the section on Scripting resources. The text is a bit confusing. It says InDesign CS5 Scripting resources, but then the paragraph for that section says the PDF files are for CS6. I haven't read through these, I just found them by searching for "indesign automation". It does say in part that is can be used for preparing files for printing, so once you figure it out, it should be a single click option to do all three steps.
You can do them now with the menus you have, assuming you also have Acrobat Pro installed. With any document open, choose File > Adobe PDF Presets, and choose either from the prebuilt defaults, or create your own in the Distiller. However, I don't see a way in the Distiller settings to choose whether or not to include bleed and marks, so I'm not really sure how you'd have them on for one and not the other. As far as JPEG output, that can be chosen under Export. You get a choice to set a resolution and JPEG quality level, but not a size, so the output will be the dimensions of the document. -
How do you change an iphoto size to 300DPI high res for exporting
How do you change an iphoto to 300 DPI high res for exporting to email?
Short answer: the dpi is set when you decide what size you're printing at.
Long Answer: Dpi means nothing in the digital world of your computer. There are no "inches" to have "dots per..." Size is measured in pixels. That's the same on your camera. It doesn't take 10 x 8 or 6 x 4 shots. It takes shots measured in megapixels. For instance 4,000 x 3,000 is a 12 megapixel camera.
Using that example, that shot from that camera has 12 million pixels. So that's how many "Dots" there are. To decide the ratio of dots per inch, you now need to decide the "inches" part. And that's printing. Print at 10 x 8 and the dpi will be 4,000/10 or about 400 dpi. At 6 x 4 then it's 4,000/6 or 660 dpi. Work the other way: Print at 300 dpi and the resulting image will be about 13 inches on the longer side.
So, your photo as a fixed number of pixels. Changing the dimensions of the print will vary the dpi, changing the dpi will vary the dimensions of the print.
For more see http://www.rideau-info.com/photos/mythdpi.html
To export: File -> Export.
Regards
TD
Regards
TD
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