T400 shake display when plug power supply s.o winxp

Hello everybody
Days ago I installed windows XP prof to thinkpad T400 , I used driver Intel Display Driver for Windows XP and ATI Display Driver for Windows XP but sometimes when plug power supply suddenly display start shake. please help me about of this
thanks a lot

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

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Hi
Very common problem with all sorts of electronic equipment.
The whistle is caused by the high frequencies used by switch mode power supplies. It's a bit like a car where you have a rattle that happens only at certain speeds, and that speed creates a certain frequency that resonates with something in the car that then makes a noise. The same thing happens in the power supply.
When you remove the power the laptop enters a different power mode and starts running things on a lower voltage to save the battery power, and the way the power supply does this is by changing the frequency the power supply runs at. This frequency is just right to cause something to start vibrating within it, and as the frequencies are very high, you get a high frequency squeal. It may be so high in frequency other people can't hear it, which can be a problem when support or the shop are checking are it if you take it back.
Just like a car with a rattle, not every car of the same type will have the problem and the same goes for laptops. Someone may have a squeal only when on mains power for example, or only when the back light is on full or on dim, or they just don't notice it.
The manufacturers do a lot to try and dampen down anything that might vibrate and squeal but are not always successful.
You might find turning off power management settings help as the power supply is then forced to supply more power and so the frequency shifts to one that doesn't cause a squeal, but then you will find battery power doesn't last as long.
It could easily go away after a few weeks or months and never come back, or could get worse.
Mostly the noise isn't any sign of an impending problem or breakdown.
Getting the laptop replaced will most likely get you one that doesn't squeal.
Hope that information helps a bit, I know it can drive you mad when you get a high frequency squeal, and even madder when other people can't hear as their hearing isn't as good.
The same sorts of noise are now used in areas where children hang out causing trouble, a high frequency noise is blasted out at a frequency that most adults can no longer hear but children can as it drives them insane, so if you can here the squeal and others can't that is quite normal and shows if anything you have younger hearing or are indeed younger.
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Message was edited by: Philip_l

HT2844 When I plug my LED cinema display into my macbook Pro, the video switches automatically but the audio still plays via the macbook speakers by default. Is there any way to make the audio default to the display audio when plugged in?

Hi,
Pretty much as the tital says really. I'm fed up of having to manually select my audio output every time I plug my macbook pro into me LED display. Can I make it default the audio to the display when plugged in?

yeah- I think so, AlexGrady. see if your machine supports hdmi audio out, it should say under "about this mac"
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Power Supply??? Anyone have this problem?

Hello everyone!
I have a few different things I am going to post but at the end they all go together so if you are bored read on.
I own an '07 Mac Pro 3GHz 8-Core and one day I started it up and it didn't come one. It had power but no video. I restarted it maybe 6 or so times for it to finally come on.
2 months later I start it up(yes I used it between this time) and it gets to the desktop and shuts off. I then try to start it and nada. So the next morning I try again and it chimes, gets to the gray apple screen and shuts off and has not started since.
I took it to an Apple repair shop(not Apple store but certified) and they are scratching their heads because this is usually a sure logic Board issue or Processor.
I myself had taken the time to fool with the diagnostic buttons and yes the Trickle Amber lights comes on but when I let go of he diagnostic button on the CPU1 & CPU2 Overtemp lights flashed.
So with no way to know what this means I just took a mental note about what lights did what and when.
PART 2
I had been searching the webtubes anywhere and everywhere for Apple Service Manuals but to no end. They seemingly don't exist.
Well not so fast. Not only did I find the Mac Pro Service Manual for my '07 I found the '08 and others all for free.
So with the info I thought for sure I could figure out the problems with my computer but the repair shop still had it. Turns out the repair shop was so used to the Logic/Processor thing they hadn't actually really diagnosed the LED's properly as I assisted them in doing once I read the manual.
As I read the LED meanings it became quite clear to me what the problem is but yet I couldn't understand how.
To me the Amber Trickle LED meant that the power supply was ok but this isn't the case. There is an LED I think number 6 or 7 that when the front button is pressed turns green to show the Power Supply is up to par.
Just from keeping notes in my head I remember studying the LEDs and never did a green light show ever.
Armed with this I went to the shop today where the tech downloaded the Service Manual while I was there and we went over it together at which point I said to him that there was no Green Light.
So while he boringly read through the LED explanations I stared at his certifications and his cool little collection of Sponge Bob items which I love by the way. After a boring repeat of yada yada yada we make the anticipated trip over the the hog on the counter.
Just like I thought... no green light.
Now I can't believe all this hoopla over that. Something so simple was overlooked for a week.
I look at it like this. People tell me now, oh yeah it makes sense that it would be that now that it is saying that from the diagnosis LEDs but not one person even suggested that prior.
And I went and purchased a new 2.26GHz 8-core because I couldn't wait any longer for it to be fixed and thinking it was gonna be $700-$2000.
Any thoughts???

It is very simple trust me.
I guess when the plug is in it still gets power(trickle power) enough to do little things and/or diagnose but the main power to boot up and run can still not work.
My guess is that it is made this way so they can still diagnose problems even when a power supply bites the dust so you know it is bad as well.
About the Overtemp lights here is the deal.
If you look at an '07 Mac Pro(can't speak for newer) behind the riser cards there is a row of LED's and words to explain why they are on, blink or whatever they do.
Things like TRICKLE POWER, CPU1 & CPU2 FAIL, CPU1 & CPU2 OVERTEMP, and others.
Just like the SMC button there are two other buttons on the Logic Board near these LEDs'
If you press them they diagnose the computers issues and make the lights come on depending on the issue.
BUT...
There are some of the LEDs that come on to show you power without having to press the diagnosis button. For example the LED #6 or #7(not sure) come on when the power is on, and in this case they don't, showing the Power Supply is not putting out the power. Even if it does and the power isn't sufficient this light will not turn on.
So...
When you hit the power button only the Fan and Drives spin due to the Trickle Power(from what I have read) but the Logic Board is not getting power from the Power Supply to start up as shown by the GREEN LED not lighting up to indicate the Power Supply is working.
That is a pretty good explanation as good as it can be.
I can post a photo tomorrow when I get my new computer up and running to show you the Board and you will be like Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh that is simple.
As far as the fix. yes I would have just got a Power Supply but it was not know at the time. I basically figured it out myself.
I have no regrets about buying the new machine. I have clients that need their stuff done and I love to do it, plus now this will become my Maya machine until it is needed for backup or something.
NOTE: Who wouldn't still be excited to get the latest and greatest.

Ibook sparks when plugged in

My Ibook sparks inside the case when the power supply gets plugged in. I am using a power supply from Macally. The power supply from my Dad's G3 Ibook also sparked when I tried that one. By sparking I mean that I can see blue light in the corner of the Ibook the instant it gets plugged in the power supply. The original power supply died when I accidently tripped over it and ripped one of the cords off the power brick. The Ibook is long off of Apple Care and has been replaced with a Macbook Pro. So my question is what do I do about the sparking? Also, no sparks actually leave the computer, there is just lots of blue light when the power supply is plugged into it.

I'd be really concerned about this, Aaron, and I guess maybe you are, since you're posting here.
Often when someone trips over an adapter and pulls the plug from the iBook, it damages the internal power input (DC-in) board (the part of the iBook that houses the adapter port). Usually, this results in an iBook that won't charge the battery and won't run from the power adapter. Once the battery is depleted, you have to recharge the battery with an external battery charger or another iBook.
It could be that yours is damaged (hence the sparks), but hasn't entirely failed. I think you should get it repaired before it starts a fire. That could happen.

Hot Powerbook G4 & power supply

My Powerbook G4 15-inch is about 5 or 6 years old, and just recently both the power supply and the computer get very hot when they are plugged in. Both would get hot in the past, but not like this: painful to have on your lap, hot. It is not the battery that is getting hot on the computer - the location of the heat is more under the keyboard and towards the edge of near the screen (and I just bought a new battery for the computer about 4 months ago). I am wondering if this is the early warning of the computer starting a downward decline.
Thanks,
Garp

Run this Temperature Monitor Application by Marcel Bresink Software
http://www.bresink.de/osx/TemperatureMonitor.html
It's the greatest little digital temp monitor that runs at top of screen edge.
I've used it for over a year. This is by far the best one.
I've tried others at Apple that never performed.
After you monitor the heat range of the processor a few times, you will have abetter idea of what to expect.
Viewing video from Youtube, or Apple's training will run the temp up to 151 degrees.
Or converting RAW images in Aperture to file.
Apples training http://www.apple.com/aperture/tutorials/#adjustedit-recover example test.
Idle, waking up will see temps of 80.
I run a quiet blower moving air under the laptop to help out if I hear laptop fan start.
On lap or other areas, it's easy to block or restrict airflow and it will run hot.
Using a lap pad available online works great. Helps keeping laptop in place as well.
If power supply is running too hot, it's best to just replace it.
There are plenty of reports, including mine made a difference.
Make sure to use the 3 prong grounded power cord adaptor to supply rather than the folding 2 prong adaptor. There is a weak point inside the 2 prong adaptor.
Plug power supply to wall outlet first, then laptop.
When you hear arcing, plugging power supply into wall outlet, this is normal.
Hearing multiple arcs is danger mode.
This arcing can spike laptop if it's plugged in at laptop first if you have sloppy fitting wall outlets
using the flip out 2 prong adaptor.

Keithley 228 power supply

Hi, i have written a labview program to control the keithley 228 power supply. If i input 5V and 1A into the power supply from my front panel when the power supply is turned on, the power supply display panel will display 5V and 0.2A. The 0.2A is the current which is drawing by the DUT. My question is if i were to display the 0.2A onto my labview program on the front panel, i need to input a 1000ms into the timeout of the GPIB read function, inorder for the current to display out. If i input less than 1000ms, the current is unable to display out. But i need fast reading and measurement, the 1000ms input into the GPIB timeout have affect my testing. My hardware configuration consists of the keithley 228 power supply, 7053 switch card and 7002 switch box.
I have tried using the 228 driver from the NI web, but it don't seems to work. You may take a look of the attachment file of my written VI. Please advise.
Thank you.
Attachments:
Set_228a.vi ‏46 KB

Hi Desmond
Try to add an extra endcharacter to your string.
I saw that you rely on EOI (End or identify) and the keithley should respond.
But maybe it is faster in mode 3 (add CRLF)
I'm talking about the send/read data
Furthermore...
You are using a sequence frame for sequencing the write and read..
You can use sequence by wiring instead.
See case 3 of your vi.
greetings from the Netherlands
Attachments:
Set_228a.vi ‏46 KB

T400 shake display when plug power supply s.o winxp

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