T61 power cables or connectors

I need some 10ft/3m extension power cables for T61 (output of power adaptor to actual laptop). Does anyone know of a source for these, or for suitable matching male/female connector pairs so I can get them made up. I need around 100 as a first order.
I would prefer a UK supplier, but would also look at other suppliers.

johnwm wrote:
I need some 10ft/3m extension power cables for T61 (output of power adaptor to actual laptop). Does anyone know of a source for these, or for suitable matching male/female connector pairs so I can get them made up. I need around 100 as a first order.
As far as I'm aware, no one has yet located the 20V style power connector (as used by Lenovo and some other equipment suppliers) as a separate, solder-connect part. It seems to only exist in moulded-onto-cable forms.
Is it practicable for you to run either main extension cables on the 240V side of the power adapter, or purchase longer mains power cords for the adapters?
Cheers,
Bill
I don't work for Lenovo

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T61 6465 9UU with 4Gig of RAM won't power up with power cable plugged in

Hi there.
I have a T61 that works perfectly, except the power button does not work when the power cable is plugged in. If I unplug the power cable, press the power button, everything boots up fine, with it saying I have 3+ hours on the battery after I login to Windows 7. If I plug the power adaptor in, it starts charging the battery as normal.
Any ideas why it won't boot when I press the power button with the power cable plugged in? I updated to the latest bios, and all is OK. I just received this PC, so I don't know if it had the problem in the past.
Thanks
Jeff

I'm now at a loss, and worried something is wrong with the motherboard.
I’m afraid you could be right…
Usually the DC IN / Battery indicator will glow amber while the battery is being charged.
In case the notebook is OFF the battery should be fully charged after about 3 hours… if the notebook is ON, the charging time would be a little bit longer… after about 6 hours the battery should be fully charged.
In such case the Dc IN / Battery indicator should switch the status to “white”. This would indicate that the battery is fully charged…
New batteries need to be calibrated to reach the best performance…
Calibrating means that the battery should be discharged until its fully empty and then charged again till the DC IN/battery indicator would glow white.
This process should be repeated two, three times until the battery recovers normal capacity.
As mentioned, the DC IN / Battery indicator should glow amber to indicate that the battery pack is being charged. However if the LED does not glow, this indicates that power is not being supplied correctly.

Can I connect my thunderbolt display's power cable to supply power to the new retina display macbook pro?

I'm planning to buy a new retina display macbook pro, but I have a thunderbolt display and I use the display's power cable to supply the power to a macbook air. As the power connector on the new macbook pro is differet, It looks to me that I won't be able to connect it to the new computer. I'm I correct?

You'll just need this adapter, which you can buy or order with the computer:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MD504ZM/A?fnode=MTY1NDEwMQ&s=topSellers

Extra power cable needed for a SATA drive in a G4 AGP "Sawtooth"?

If one adds a SATA controller card and a SATA hard drive to a G4 AGP "Sawtooth", will a power cable like the one at the below link be needed, or would the necessary power cabling ordinarily come with the drive?
[http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Micro%20Accessories/SATAPAY>
-John

Thanks for the additional information, japamac.
That would be Left (or right angle 270º) for the data cable.
Which of the below data cables would be more appropriate, the 18" long one or the 39" long one?
[http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Micro%20Accessories/SATA18L>
[http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Micro%20Accessories/SATA39L>
Power connectors would be a left angle 90º to get wires going up.
I found the below two (the first is the same one linked near the top of this thread):
[http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Micro%20Accessories/SATAPAY>
[http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Micro%20Accessories/SATAPA>
Is it okay to have one of the ends of a "Y" cable remain unconnected? I've done that with my existing ATA power cables, but I wanted make sure that that is also okay with the SATA power cables.

Connect to 32" LCD TV from Lenovo T61 with a VGA connector

Hi,
I am trying to connect to 32" LCD TV 1080P from T61 with a VGA connector. When I do (Fn+Ctrl+F7) I can see the T61's output on my TV if I set T61's display setting as 1280x768. Then If I increase the resolution on the TV the screen becomes black. I want to change the display setting to 1920x1080 so that I can see output as full screen on my TV.
Notebook setting as follows
Color Quality - 32 bit
Refresh Rate - 60 Hertz
How can I change the screen resolution?

Most likely the TV won't support higher resolutions via the VGA connector. But there is a workaround.
After spending several hours at a TV store last October, we found an obscure reference in the TV's manual stating this limitation. We also discovered that HDMI will support the max resolution. The T61p docking station has a DVI port that outputs a signal that can be converted to HDMI. We bought a DVI-to-HDMI conversion plug ($75) and took the docking station, conversion plug and an HDMI cable back to the store. Worked great so we bought the 65" LCD for trade shows. There are some settings to play with on both the T61p and the TV that will increase the image clarity significantly. The image is stunning at full res.

Need to ID G4 part:socket came off logic board (blue & white power cable

In the course of disassembling a G4 iBook the socket for the blue & white power cable wiring harness broke off the logic board.
I am trying to learn the correct desciption of this part so I can find a replacement. The wires on the bottom which were soldered to the board broke off.
Even after it was broken off, and I had leverage, I had to use two pairs of pliers to get the plug out of this socket. It should never have been assembled so tightly.

Spud-- I'm going to use conductive epoxy; I don't have access to anyone with micro soldering skills.
re previous posts -- unfortunately the Search logic is not precise enough to ask about this particular connector. Any search containing "logic board" gets swamped with the famous failure issue.
I went to an electronics specialty store and they didn't have any connectors of that style, let alone size. I'd like to replace the socket so I can use the existing plug on the blue & white wire.
Last night I spend some hours surfing "connector" etc and didn't see any photos that matched it on any distributor/manufacturer sites. So I'm still wondering what the correct descriptive word is, as used in the trade.
My "backup" iBook G3/Panther is taking about 30 seconds to load an average web page though. Spinner locks it up while loading one at a time. Wonder if installing Tiger and a newer Safari would help? I just got a chip to max out the memory, still have to install it.
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The socket bottom has no leads on it (anymore). They are broken off flush with the plastic on the bottom. I was thinking of using a dental burr to grind into them, creating a small cavity, and then using conductive epoxy. I don't know if the bottom plastic is thick enough; if I go too far then it would ruin the prongs sticking up in the cavity.
But I could epoxy a wire stub, as long as possible to still fit into the space above the board & below the top of the shield/case. Then epoxy each wire to the pad on the board. The pads are about 1 mm x 2 mm or less, and worse, the gap between them is under 1mm wide. I'll have to goop some insulating silicone putty in that gap before putting tiny dabs of epoxy on the pads.
I bought some larger socket/plugs at the store, the socket part has no leads in it though. These sockets are they type that use the wire lead of the style shown in your photo of the repaired plug. I also got some different ones with flat prongs.
I'd like to move the connection point from the board to under the case top -- the blue & white wire runs all the way from the other side of the case. I just need a thin enough connector. Worst case -- leave as much slack wire length as possible and solder a Western Union splice.
If I can epoxy leads to the board without shorting between the pads I can figure something out. Need to carefully estimate the space available. Or as you say, just make some prongs.
You say #26 is the right wire gauge -- that's vital data. I don't want to undersize the power leads !
I'm also going to paint non-conductive coating on the board around the pad area, so I can slop the epoxy without worrying about shorting a trace. I've had to do some scraping to remove the gummy gluey stuff -- I presume its silicone adhesive of some kind.
There is some sort of test connection right above this area, with two little prongs sticking up. Marked "J1." The traces look like they go to the socket. I wonder if they use that to use alligator clips to power up the board during assembly testing? That location is much, much larger than the pads for the socket.

[845 Series] 845E MAx2: CPU cooler and power supply stop when power cable plugged in to HDD

Board: MSI 845E Max2
BIOS: 6398E V.1
UPDATED BIOS: 6398IMS V.5.7 040203
CPU: Intel Celeron 1,7GHz
RAM: 512GB Infineon
Power: ATX 300W
Hard Disks: WD and Maxtor 10GB-30GB
Hi all,
whenever I plug in the power cable to the hard disk computer shuts down after 2-5 seconds. If I try to start it again nothing happens. So I need to plug off and on the ATX-connector again so that the power supply works and the CPU-fan spins. However, as long as a hard drive is attached (it does not even need to be connected to any of the IDE-controller; having connected to the power supply is sufficient) it shuts down.
Following tests were done:
1- other hard disks were used
2- other power supply resources were used
3- computer was started with short connecting the power switch through the respective pins
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Hi again,
after reading the PSU guide I used a HDD which was 20GB (an older one of app. 4 years) and system booted normally. It seems that the PSU of 300W was having a difficulty of serving the relative newer HDD with power. I will test it with a min. 400W PSU and let you know if the problem is completely solved.
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Mac Pro 2x2.8 quad will not power on unless I unplug, then plug-in power cable, why?

It is a 2x2.8 Quad Intel Mac pro, 8GB Ram, 8800 GT Video Card (running dual monitors), 10.6.8, Dual Internal HD (150/250), Single external HD (1TB), Dual Internal Burners (DVD - Stock/Blu-Ray - Pioneer), no PCIe cards installed.
I installed a brand new power supply thinking that was my issue, but it still does not power on after an extended period (1/2 hour or so) of being shut-off. It also at times will shut itself off after periods of inactivity even though it is set to never go to sleep, nor are the HD's set to sleep when possible.
One clue to give is that it IS set to restart after power failure. So when I go to press the button to turn the puter on and it is non-responsive, I then unplug and plug the power cable back in to the rear of the puter: it automatically starts-up as if there was a power failure.
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It is a 2x2.8 Quad Intel Mac pro, 8GB Ram, 8800 GT Video Card (running dual monitors), 10.6.8, Dual Internal HD (150/250), Single external HD (1TB), Dual Internal Burners (DVD - Stock/Blu-Ray - Pioneer), no PCIe cards installed.
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One clue to give is that it IS set to restart after power failure. So when I go to press the button to turn the puter on and it is non-responsive, I then unplug and plug the power cable back in to the rear of the puter: it automatically starts-up as if there was a power failure.
The other possible clue I have is that my bluray burner is connected via SATA cable to one of the 2 open SATA connectors on the Motherboard. It only has issues when the hard drives ARE set to sleep when possible. When they are awoken, the drive is no longer listed as present. Meaning I cannot open the drive drawer. ;(
I am thoroughly upset about this.
Benjamin

Charging iPad with Airport Express extension power cable?

I have the discontinued Monster Airport Express Stereo Connection Kit, it comes with 3 cables, one of which is an Airport Express extension power cable, I want to know if I can use this power cable to charge my new iPad. I have asked Apple staff who didn't know as they no longer stock the cables. The power cord has a UK wall plug on one end and a 2 pin connector on the other,made to slot into the airport express unit it the same fashion as the iPad power cable slots into the iPad power block. I understand the iPad needs 10w power charging. Does anybody know if this will be safe to use? Many thanks...

Use the power adapter/cable that came with the iPad.
The quickest way (and really the only way) to charge your iPad is with the included 10W USB Power Adapter. iPad will also charge, although more slowly, when attached to a computer with a high-power USB port (many recent Mac computers) or with an iPhone Power Adapter (5W). When attached to a computer via a standard USB port (most PCs or older Mac computers) iPad will charge very slowly (but iPad indicates not charging). Make sure your computer is on while charging iPad via USB. If iPad is connected to a computer that’s turned off or is in sleep or standby mode, the iPad battery will continue to drain.
Apple recommends that once a month you let the iPad fully discharge & then recharge to 100%.
At this link http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/galaxy-tab-android-tablet,3014-11.html , tests show that the iPad 2 battery (25 watt-hours) will charge to 90% in 3 hours 1 minute. It will charge to 100% in 4 hours 2 minutes. The new iPad has a larger capacity battery (42 watt-hours), so using the 10W charger will obviously take longer. If you are using your iPad while charging, it will take even longer. It's best to turn your new iPad OFF and charge over night. Also look at The iPad's charging challenge explained http://www.macworld.com/article/1150356/ipadcharging.html
Also, if you have a 3rd generation iPad, look at Apple: iPad Battery Nothing to Get Charged Up About
http://allthingsd.com/20120327/apple-ipad-battery-nothing-to-get-charged-up-abou t/
Apple Explains New iPad's Continued Charging Beyond 100% Battery Level
http://www.macrumors.com/2012/03/27/apple-explains-new-ipads-continued-charging- beyond-100-battery-level/
 Cheers, Tom

[GeForce 6] Geforce 6800 128MB - Computer won't boot with add. power cable conne

I've had my computer set up in it's current configuration for about a year now except that I've recently replaced (RMA) my motherboard and it's been working solidly for the past two weeks. I was playing a game yesterday, hit <Escape> to go to options and then my computer shut off. After unplugging everything from the motherboard, I have found out that the computer won't turn back on if I have the additional power cable attached to the video card. If I have the power cable attached to the video card, the computer will turn on for about a second, and turn off. The power LED won't stay on, the CPU fan won't turn, even the power supply fan won't turn. When I detach the power cable from the video card, my computer will power on, but I get a horrible screech (which I assume is the video card warning that the necessary power cable isn't attached). In this case, all fans on the system start turning, even the video card fan. So, I turn off the computer within a few seconds to make sure I don't damage anything. I have tried using different power connectors from the power supply to the video card to make sure it wasn't just one particular power cable.
My question is: Is the video card at fault, or my power supply?
I'm hesitant to test the video card on the only other system available to me (My girlfriend's 5 year old Gateway with a 200W power supply [+12V 6A Max] which I'm using to post this thread) for fear of damaging it. And unfortunately, the video card in my girlfriend's computer is of a way older AGP style which won't fit into my motherboard (for testing).

Glenn,
I cleared the CMOS, as suggested, and nothing has changed from my previous post. I'm trying to figure out if the video card is now drawing too much power from the power supply, indicating something went wrong with the video card or if something went wrong with the power supply in that it now can't handle the power being drawn from the video card. I disconnect all my hard/optical drives power connections, so that the power supply is powering only the motherboard and video card and it's the same story.
NEXT DAY UPDATE:
I bought a SmartPower 2.0 350W Antec power supply from Circuit City to test my situation further. I get the same problems even with the new power supply, so I'm certain that the video card is drawing too much power from the Molex power connector. Time to RMA MSI ASAP. If anyone has any suggestions please feel free to comment on this thread.

Replace SATA drive power cable

One of the SATA drive power cables in my Power G5 2.0 DP died. Now I am using Y-splitter to get power from another port. It works but looks messy. I did quite a googling but I can only find power cable for iMac G5s. Could some one please tell me where to find replacements, or the definition of the pins so probably I can make one from the iMac version?

Hi
Any of the cables should work, the only differences being their length, one comes bundled with a SATA data cable and one is a splitter, allowing an ATA and SATA drive to be powered off the same existing molex connector. I'd just double check their male/female orientation before ordering though. It may be a shorter cable is better to reduce cable clutter inside the computer. I picked a SATA drive that included a legacy molex power connector on the drive itself, to keep the cable clutter to a minimum.

Charger/power cable replacement

Hi there, I need to replace the charger/power cable on my 2008 1,1 Macbook air- I wonder if anyone knows whether a 2011 AIr cable would work ? Many Thanks

Yes, it will work. At some point in time, Apple changed the charging connector, and you may need to purchase an adapter form the Apple store.

Dell T630 SATA Power Cable (15 pin)

We have a really odd requirements with a mushkin scorpion deluxe card which requires 15 pin sata power cable and I cannot seem to find a single sata power cable any where.
The server that we ordered has additional 6 pin gpu connectors can these be converted to sata power cable (only able to find vice-versa).
Prasad

So I'm working on a Dell Optiplex 980 and it is a small-form factor machine. The manual states it can accommodate 2x 2.5 HDDs but the factory PSU only has a single standard size SATA power cable. The other one is used to power the optical drive (which I don't need, of course) and looks like this:Can I adapt this to a standard size SATA power cable so I can install a second 2.5" HDD?
Also, the output on the integrated soundcard is incredibly low. It's so quite that even at full volume, videos don't play loud enough (and this isn't a problem with other PCs on these speakers, so it's not the speakers or the receiver). Any recommendations on a PCI or PCIe soundcard that has an on-board headphone amp would be appreciated.Thanks...
This topic first appeared in the Spiceworks Community

Extra power cable?

I just got my new Apple TV today...
Is the new Apple TV power cable a standard connector? Where can I get one?
It's great that there is no power supply brick to deal with!
I want to be able to move it from the family room to basement, but not have to move the power cord.

will it be harmed if it is plugged in using the cable from the previous apple tv?

Need internal power cable

Hi,
I wish to install a USB 3.0 expansion PCIe card in my early 2008 Mac Pro (3,1). The card has a 4 pin Molex power connector; I think it's same connector one finds for power on a parallel IDE drive. I believe I need to connect this to the 6 pin connector on my motherboard? Anyone know where I can get a cable?
(PS: I posted this earlier, by mistake, in the iMac forum. So this is a duplicate posting. Apologies!!!)

Grant Bennet-Alder wrote:
Mac Pro 3,1 is the 2008 model with Molex connectors.
Mac Pro 4,1 is the 2009 model with SATA cabling ONLY, so it would require a different cable.
After powering off, the Optical drive enclosure is really easy to remove halfway to inspect and/or disconnect the cables (no fasteners required). Once the cables are disconnected from the drives, it can be completely removed and you can stretch out the cables and see if they will fall short, and estimate how much more would be needed.
I am sure 72" is far more than you need -- they may even reach already.
Thanks, Grant. I will examine the connections. My project is to add USB 3.0 card reader or other devices to the PCI expansion card I'm planning to get.
Do you know if there are two separate DVD/CD drive power cables in the stock Mac Pro 3,1 or just a single with a Y cable between them? That is the model I have. If only one cable of the two used there, can stretch out the other one, then I'd be golden- nothing to add.
However, I suspect that there is a Y cable there for the second DVD drive, so I would need to connect to it and extend it down to the PCI card residing in the X4 PCIe port. Yes, 6' is overkill but I can eat some up by routing the cable neatly, the rest will bundle. Probably 48" would be sufficient. That costs more to make than it is worth.
When I take it apart, I can post pictures for anyone interested. FYI, recently put in an external antenna for the BT antenna to prevent/minimize interference with USB 3.0. Made a big improvement in level of the trackpad reception, too. USB crosstalk should be reduced and cable pickup will be reduced with the RF suppressors I used on the extension cable from the USB card reader to the card.

T61 power cables or connectors

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