Taking photos in white on black

when i switch over from black on white to white on black, it looks cool and when i tried to take pictures of it and switch back, it was the same picture in black on white. is there a way to take a picture in white on black and keep it as that?

I don't know or sure, but I haven't be able to do that.
However, I have been able to get a very similar result in Preview.
In Preview, open any image, e.g. a normal picture of the screen or of window or anything else. Choose from the menu bar Tools > Image Correction. In the panel that appears, you'll see White Point and Black Point. Click on the colors to change them. Make the White Point black, and the Black Point white.
Though, the Sepia setting looks pretty nifty when turned all the way up instead.
If you actually wanted grayscale, I haven't figured that out other than opening the image in iPhoto. You can use iPhoto's Adjust panel to make the image grayscale in one click. Then you can do all sorts of things to it, including photocasting it.

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  • Why doesn't the 3-way CC do anything when I click on "white" or "black"??

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    Now we're starting to get somewhere!
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  • White and black point vs ??

    I never know which forum to post these things, so I'll start with the photographers.
    <br />
    <br />These three shots are as follows: (1) the camera raw version, (2) where I moved the sliders from the ends to approximately the beginning/end of the major portion of the histogram, and (3) using the threshold control to find the white and black points in the main part of the picture.
    <br />
    <br />Then, in the two adjusted versions, I lightened the image with the curves control.
    <br />
    <br />In both these cases, I used the grey dropper to touch the same spot on one of the rocks, to get the apparent neutral point.
    <br />
    <br />It seems to me that the threshold method to find the white and black points is preferred, based on the overall color and appearance of the finished adjustment.
    <br />
    <br />But, I've found on some images where the histogram has missing black and missing white, if I adjust the sliders to these two ends, I get pretty much the same outcome, as far as the contrast, color, and grey point.
    <br />
    <br />Could I have some advice on the preferred method to use in handling my image adjustments? Doing it the threshold method takes more time, and sometimes it's difficult to find the white and black points, or even the grey point.
    <br />
    <br />Thanks.
    <br />
    <br />Al
    <br />
    <br />
    <a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3" /></a>
    <img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
    <br />
    <br />
    <a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj" /></a>
    <img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
    <br />
    <br />
    <a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1" /></a>
    <img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1_thumb.jpg" border="0" />

    Yes the image was purposely underexposed. What I was trying to accomplish was to speed up the shutter speed to remove the slight blurring and compensate by pulling data from the shadows. Even though the lens has an image stabilizer the amount of light wasn't enough for a proper sharp shot.
    this image is before touch up
    These two images are F/5.6, 1/20, ISO 800
    After touch up
    Better lit scene but shows slight motion blur
    This last image is F/5.6, 1/4, ISO 800
    I believe that I will have to wait next year and hope I have a faster lens by then. I just don't think the 28mm-135mm f/3.5-5.6 lens is fast enough. I was trying this without a tripod to get in tighter.
    Also I was taking these shots without the flash to get the drama of the tree lights.
    What I would have prefer is a shutter speed of 1/125 or better as it helps with my hands shaking I believe the slowest should be 1/60
    And the lower the ISO the better for noise.
    These preferences are what I am used to with my Canon G3 that does not have IS.
    I am getting so off track here, lol. But anyways, here are the pictures.

  • How can i accentuate whites and blacks in photoshop b/w ,no acr?

    Hi
    how can i accentuate whites and blacks in photoshop in black and white photos?
    i tried silver evef 2 and there is a feature to boost whites and blacks http://www.niksoftware.com/silverefexpro/usa/entry.php?view=usa/features.html#amplify_blac ks_and_whiteshttp://
    levels and curves don't give me the same results
    i tried to create a luminocity mask of whites with selective color
    is there a great skill to boost whites for example?
    thanks
    cheers

    mantralightroom wrote:
    because silvers v2 is a nice plugin , i like  how it can boost ,aplify the whites and the blacks
    can't do the same results with levels or curve or selective color
    I use CS5 with Silver Efex Pro v2, but again, without seeing an example of what you're seeing or what you want to achieve, it's difficult to suggest what specific technique will get you what you want using Photoshop alone.
    I'm sure some combination of Luminosity Mask, Levels/Curves/Contrast Adjustment Layers would probably give you what you want, but if the Silver Efex Presets, perhaps with some tweaking/customization, give you what you want, and the speed, or lack thereof, is not a problem, well, just stick with what you have!
    And as Duotone and Lundberg have pointed out, there are alternatives to Siver Efex; I'm sure you could download a 30 day trial of those packages to play with and see if they meet your needs.
    Good luck
    Paul

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