Tales of Extreme Frustration: 890GXM-G65 won't POST

Purchased components to build new computer and the PC won't post for some unknown reason. The fans come one and the 4 APS LEDS all light up but nothing further.
Tested the HD with my current machine and verified it functional via bios. Tested PSU on my current machine as well and found it to be working.Took the memory back in exchange for 1.5v per the documentation. Nothing. Went to exchange the mobo and they get it to fire up right before my eyes. Assuming the CPU is the issue I make the exchange. Again, nada. I go and return yet again and get a 3rd processor and am still getting nothing. Tried plugging the pwr leaving just the CPU, not even memory expecting error tones from the piezo but of course nothing. It posted at Fry's so I'm kind of out of things to try.
Saw posts online citing vcore issues but nothing really fitted what I'm experiencing especially when the solution is to flash the bios when I can't even post.
Need help. Nightmare build. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!
Setup:
MOBO = MSI 890GXM-G65
CPU = AMD Phenom II x6 (1st & 2nd were 1090T, and the 3rd is 1075T)
MEM = 2x2GB DDR3 1333 Corsair XMS3
PSU = Cooler Master 650W
-Joe

Quote from: Fredrik on 22-February-11, 20:27:16
Can you ask the obviously very kind servicemen at your store to update BIOS for you.
Hey thanks man that would be an idea I haven't thought of yet... moreover, I'd like to find out how I can do that myself.
Question: How does one update the bios on a board that won't post?
Plan: obtain a stick of super low end ram, get the thing to fire up (assuming its a voltage/vcore issue that's preventing the post), update then reassemble proper
Does someone know of another way to accomplish?
Joe

Similar Messages

790gx-g65 won't post

cpu and memory are all that is attached to the motherboard.
alll the motherboard lights come on , but no post whatsoever.
using the onboard ati card for testing.
no beep codes or anything.
any ideas?
memory = kingston ddr3 1600
cpu= amd phenom2 x3 2.8ghz

uh yeah , thermaltake silent purepower 480w
(sorry for the sarcasm)
plenty to run the system with the onboard video
all the lights light up on the motherboard , just nothing happens.
crrently sitting onkitchen table with psu , monitor , cpu attached , memory attached , keyboard attached , nothing else.
tried one stick of memory , in all four memory slots.
double checked to make sure cpu seated properly , i get no post beeps at allscreen doesn't even flicker on the monitor when the board is powered on.
cpu fan spins , and that's about all i get.

890GXM-G65 alarm

Can someone tell me what the high-pitched alarm noise is the 890GXM-G65?
It's coming on in a new game I'm trying to play, but doesn't seem to be temperature related (core temp hasn't exceed 41 degrees, according to AMD OverDrive & SpeedFan) and motherboard temperature seems quite low too. What is the alarm for?

Quote from: Tenoq on 17-October-10, 18:42:42
Appears to be the motherboard. Do they have an audible alarm? The alarm is just a constant high-pitched whine and has only started happening under severe load. I did hear it briefly once before running LinX... but not since.
It's definitely not VGA. VGA temp is very low thanks to an aftermarket cooler.
Quote
It's definitely not VGA. VGA temp is very low thanks to an aftermarket cooler.
Temp doesn't matter, as said before: either test with another VGA or with another PSU.
This noise typically comes from standard choke:
This kind of conventional choke has one major disadvantage: high-frequency-noise. When the GPU needs a lot of electricity, the coil and metal stick will be under full loading so that the generated magnetic force will cause mutual interference resulting in vibration. The vibration speed is extremely high and therefore causes high-frequency noise. The noise level depends on the loading and can vary from for humans inaudible 10 dB to unbearable 30 dB.
In contrast, a solid state choke’s esign is entirely different. It still has a coil inside but is one solid, massive body where the coil is buried in iron, similar toa building where concrete encloses the steel beams. No matter how high the current, solid state chokes won’t vibrate and therefore won’t emit annoying noise. In comparison with traditional chokes, SSC is much more stable and have a higher anti-surge capacity

890GXM-G65 AM3+/black socket

Hi all. Just wanted to know if the 890GXM-G65 will be getting a black socket/AM3+ revision in the near future...since it is certified AM3+ but the one on the site still has a white/AM3 socket (BD/FX chips won't fit). Thanks.

Ask MSI: >>How to contact MSI.<<
As we are not MSI we don't know.

890GXM-G65 No onboard (realtek) analog sound

About a month ago I saved up enough of my precious dollars to upgrade my slow, single core computer into something a bit more passable for this day and age. The new computer is much better, but it is lacking something very important to me: sound.
I can't hear any audio. Windows, in all flavors, thinks the device is functional, while the Realtek control panel app swears up and down that I have not plugged anything into the back ports. I've talked to my dealer, friends, one online forum, and finally found my way here, a forum dedicated to MSI boards that I somehow didn't come across earlier or I would've come here straight away.
Well, without further ado, here are the specs:
890GXM-G65 MS-8642 BIOS 1.B0
AMD Athlon 2 X3 3.2Ghz
Crucial 2x2GB CT25664BA1339A
Antek25 650W +12V~38A, +5V~24A, +3.3V~24A
XP Pro SP3 x86 / Server 2003 R2 x64 / *cough* 7 x86
I have other hardware of course, but since I've been testing I've stripped it down to the bare essentials.
I also found a very similar thread (https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=151266.0). It was resolved by putting in a different sound card, but that's not an option for me.
As I've said, I've tried to figure this out with the help of others for some time now.
Things I've tried:
* Tried multiple OSes, including to my chagrin Windows 7. I was going to try Delphi but the installer didn't like my setup, and well, this IS a gaming rig so it's not worth figuring out why.
* Tried multiple drivers, both new, old, MSI, Realtek, and on 7 the default drivers, across all of the OSes above.
* Tried jumping the front panel connector. Supposedly you don't have to anymore, but just in case I shorted 5-6 and 9-10 to no effect.
* Tried every combination of settings I could think of in the realtek manager, especially the one related to ignoring the front panel jack detection.
* Tried removing, reluctantly, the board from the case.
* Tried fresh install of 7 on the stripped down and removed board.
* Tried RMAing the board after everyone concluded that the board was bad. This was very painful. I was without any reasonable computing power for a week. To my great shock, this did not help and I am right back where I was last month.
Things I can't try:
* Testing the front panel audio (I don't have any such connector; JAUD1 is open)
* Testing the digital out (again, no such equipment)
Things that people always ask just in case (if there's a stupidly easy thing I've missed though go ahead and ask it--I sometimes miss stupidly easy things):
* Is the on-board sound enabled in the BIOS? Yes it is.
* Do the speakers work? Yep. Worked since the 90s, works in laptop today.
* On 7 did you switch it from digital out to analog out? Yes, sort've. The analog out options couldn't be selected normally, but I could select the headphones option if I disabled the front panel jack detection. Not having a front panel, I was not surprised to find that this didn't work (though the green volume bar was moving). A 'disable rear jack detection' setting would be very nice.
I am stumped, as is everyone else I've asked--we all thought the old board must have been defective but getting a new, equally incapable board seems to put that theory to rest. I'm well past the point where I'd normally write it off and use a spare sound card, but this board only has one PCI slot, and it is occupied. The only available slot is the second PCI-E 16 slot, and I don't think they make sound cards for that. And even if they did I really don't have the money to buy anything new; I've already sunk more than I budgeted for on this.
Any ideas?

Enable Digital IO.. is not under properties.. Control Panel/Sound/Double Click (to open) on your choice of 'playback devices'.. in this case 'the default out choice..Speakers and then under the 'Custom' Tab.. it is the Only check box or option under the 'Custom' Tab. Odds are it is unchecked but worth looking. I unhooked my Speakers and it was still there. Also without my speakers attached is the Configure Icon box.. but it is unavailable to open, unless the output choice (the Default out choice) is clicked on and highlighted. Then you can enter Configure.
We are both using Windows 7.. The question of your posted pictures is seen in the pictures. Lower picture shows 2ea Default.. Green Circle active as default. Your upper picture doesn't show Speakers as a selection, it shows a Headset. So my question was leading to a possible conflict of Default outputs. No I'm not drunk, but I am electronic capable.. poss that's a reason my explanation is seeming drunk..lol
My point is.. when setting your DEFAULT output choice... If you have your speakers 1/8" plugged into the Boards 'Green" jack. Have it that way only... no other speakers or headsets attached. Make the Speaker out choice under Control Panel/ Sound and under the Playback tab.. the only Default choice. Undo any second Default selection. That is the Output choice showing a Green Circle with a check mark inside it. That is what you are assigning as the audio out you are using. Just to see if there is a conflict. Again the posted lower picture that you show under the Sound box has 2 defaults.
You also have the Realtek HD Audio Manager shown. Possibly that is a conflict.. Is one set different than the other? You have 2 separate audio control programs. One is the Windows OS Sound control choice, and the other is your Realtek HD Audio Mamager. If you un-install the Realtek HD Audio Manager program, you still have the Windows 7 OS Sound controls. Both is just an option. You do want to always have your Windows Sound programs installed.. it controls a lot to include your Theme Sounds and more... Your Realtek HD Audio Manager is optional. If both are not set for defaults out, such as the exact same output selections... they will conflict.
You can always reinstall the Realtek Audio program. Since you have no sound and don't know if it is a board electrical problem.. as in a broken circuit. Use just one.. Windows one!! Then if you have sound from the Green jack input on the board... it will tell you that the board is infact OK. Then it all boils down to which program to use.
Fixing a problem is a task of the process of elimination. Make it simple to see if it will work.
Try again removing the Realtek HD Audio, optional program. Plug your speaker into the proper output. Make sure that under Sound and the playback tab.. speakers are default. That green circle. Highlight the Speaker choice. Click on Configure. and follow to configure. Double click on the Speaker selection. Go through all the tabs and make proper choices. Also on your desktop, on the bottom right open settings from the Speaker Icon next to the Time and Date. Volume is on and up, and the mixer setting also are up for volume. Now you are setup for speakers without out a secondary conflict of two programs and 2 defaults. If you have no sound after that... at least you know you finally have all the proper settings, and no conflicts.
Keep it simple and basic until you figure out your no sound woes. Still not working? Then it's time do figure out if you problem is software based or hardware based. Man, I hope you are following this.. I really am trying to help. I know problems can be so frustrating. I build and fix a lot of problems for Friends. No master but I do understand diagnostic processes.
I hope the next Post from you is that your possible conflicts are gone, and you have sound. If it is a conflict? Sure seems possible.

890GXM-G65 on-board Audio white noise when shutting down ... Please Help

Just got this board on ebay. Runs great but when rebooting the following happens:
MSI 890GXM-G65 on-board Audio produces a second's worth of white noise (radio no-station-tuned static sound) when shutting down - about a second before the screen goes bank and the PC restarts
I don't mind the noise but is this normal or should I send the board back ?

I'm using the following hardware :
Athlon II x 3 440 AM3 (unlocked 4 cores @ 3.6GHz)
Thermaltake MaxOrb
MSI 890GXM-G65
2 x 2GB Kingston 1066 CAS 7 DDR3 KVR1066D3N7K2/4G
MSI N460GTX Cyclone 1GD5/OC
OCZ Fatal1ty 550W Modular (Dual Rails +12V@25A per rail)
WD 250GB 7200rpm SATA II
Thermaltake Gaming Cube VF6000BNS
Windows 7 x64 Home Premium
19" Sony Triniton CRT Monitor
All Windows Sounds are turned off except for Device Connect / Disconnect / Connect Failure. I have an Audigy 2 PCI card but I haven't tried it because the drivers always lock up the PC when I run MSI Afterbutner, eVGA Precision or almost any other hardware monitoring utility.
Since I flashed the BIOS to v1.B I feel I can't return it to the seller but I really like the board and it works well, except for this integrated audio issue. I won't return this board - it's a keeper.
Still, I'm hoping for a fix if possible.

890GXM-G65 New Build

Hello
I am building a new machine but having blue screen crashes during OS installation. The machine spec is as follows:
Motherboard: MSI 890GXM-G65, with latest 1B BIOS. BOIS is set to default settings.
Memory: 2 x 4GB Corsair 1333 DDR3 Non-ECC (9-9-9-24) 1.50V, dual channel.
Power Supply: Arctic 700W.
Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Socket AM3 3.2 GHz.
HDD: Seagate 500GB 3.5" Barracuda SATA-III 6Gb/s
Optical Drive: LG BH10LS30 10x BD-RE with DVD±RW & LightScribe SATA Blu-Ray
First I tried loading my old Windows XP OS but this was was crashing at random points in the installation process. Sometimes I would get all the way through but it would crash during updating from the Windows Update website. I gave this up and decided to bit the bullet and put Windows 7 on it. This began blue screening almost immediately, but my most successful attempt has got to 66% in the expanding files phase of the install (several times it has stopped here). I had a 550W PSU installed at this time, so I decided to put the PSU shown above in, but this has made no difference. The blue screen message is almost always "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL", which does not tell me to much. It might be indicating a CPU or Motheboard issue, but I cannot decide which.
I now have a pretty big investment in hardware and software, and not a lot to show for it. I would be most grateful for any pointers that anyone has to offer on how to proceed further with determining where the problem lies. Thanks very much for reading this.

The Corsair is for sure far more powerful then both others.
As you have to look at the 12V rail, it output 34A BUT that is continues power.
Those other PSU's will not do that, not even close.
You can simply not buy a powersupply that outputs 500W continues for a lower price then the Corsair.
But the entire game isn't about watts, it's about 12V amperes that can be delivered continues, the Corsair does that.
Those "brands" you name for sure won't deliver anything near and probably explode when you try.
Please do some reading at http://www.jonnyguru.com/ you will quickly find out that watts are not the game to be played, the amps that the 12V regulators can handle are.
BTW, he has some reviews about el-cheapo PSU's that blow to pieces big time not even reaching anything near the Wattage on the label.
Please don't fall for the Watt trap as it's abused by many cheap crap PSU's, even if they do look fancy.
Just read this test about the CX-430 and you know enough: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=214

XFX Radeon HD 5770 Compatible with 890GXM-G65?

Anyone have issues installing an XFX Radeon HD 5770 video card with the 890GXM-G65? Bought one and when I installed it, the fan was blowing but the card was extremely hot (smelled like something was melting). Also my monitor didn't recognize a signal so the screen was black. Returned that one, and although the second one was considerably cooler, nothing still appeared on screen. Is this a compatibility issue?

Sorry about that, here are my specs:
Specs:
CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
Mobo: MSI 890GXM-G65 bios v1.6
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
Storage -
1) OCZ Vertex 2 50GB SSD (Boot drive)
2) Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
GPU: XFX Radeon 5770 1GB DDR5
PSU: Corsair 650TX
Case: Antec 300 (Illusion)
OS: Win 7 (64-bit)

Cannot resize the albums in album view in Itunes 11. For those of us with large libraries (160gb), this is extremely frustrating. I want to make the artwork smaller. This seems to be a serious oversight.

Cannot resize the albums in album view in Itunes 11. For those of us with large libraries (160gb), this is extremely frustrating. I want to make the artwork smaller. This seems to be a serious oversight.

I agree.
It was very useful to reduce everything to small and quickly scan down looking for missing artwork.
Particularly useful when I only connect to the machine with iTunes via screen sharing, so everything can be a bit slower to scroll through at times.
In fact, itunes 11 when used purely as a server for Apple TV etc is a downgrade in usability IMO, as they've got rid of some of the useful views that helped me manage my library remotely.

HT6154 My Apple account password has been reset on the count that it says it's incorrect. I just made a new one after making a previous new one, and now it says the new one is incorrect after trying to log in to download an app. EXTREMELY FRUSTRATED & C

My Apple account password has been reset a couple times due to Apple telling me my passwords are incorrect. I know they aren't because I have already had to change the password three times, and I keep record of my password. Yet, it continuously tells me my password is incorrect. I have just changed it, again, and now I cannot log into the itunes store to download an app because it's telling me my new password is incorrect.
I just bought the new iphone 5s today, so does this have anything to do with it? Please help, this is extremely frustrating.

Need to Resume download to complete the ongoing Process.
Last Resort, put the iPhone in DFU mode (Google How to do that). Connect in iTunes. Follow on-screen prompts to Restore. All Data would be lost, if not backed up earlier.
To save the photographs you may have to use third party software. Google is your friend.

My iTunes continues to say "Security Code Invalid" when I know it is in fact correct. I can't update my apps or purchase anything and it's extremely frustrating. Someone please help with what to do?

Every time I go on my iTunes account via my iPhone or even my computer, I get notified that my security code is invalid. My account did this a while back, but I ignored it for a while and it eventually accepted my security code. It's not doing that now. It's been a week, I need to update my apps and want to be able to purchase whatever I want. It's extremely fruststing that it won't accept my actual card security code. Someone please help?

Is the address on your iTunes account exactly the same as on your credit card bill : http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1646 ?

HT4972 the apps weve downloaded are not working. please help, extremely frustrated with our ipod 4

the apps we have downloaded are not working, please help, extremely frustrated with our ipod 4

See my previous reply for for the apps closing.
For the wifi problem:
Does the iOS device connect to other networks?
Does the iOS device see the network?
Any error messages?
Do other devices now connect?
Did the iOS device connect OK before?
Try the following to rule out a software problem:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Power off and then back on your router
.- Reset network settings: Settings>General>Reset>Reset Network Settings
- iOS: Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections
- Wi-Fi: Unable to connect to an 802.11n Wi-Fi network
- iOS: Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: How to back up
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.
If still problem make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store since it appears you have a hardware problem.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

Pls help MSI 890GXM-G65

tomorrow i buy MSI 890GXM-G65 and AMD Phenom II X4 840 AM3 3.2GHz 2MB Cache 45nm HDX840WFGMBOX
no any information MSI 890GXM-G65 cpu support for phenom II X4 840 HDX840WFGMBOX msi offical site i waiting answer
thanks
S.

I have one in my 890FXA-GD70 board and it works fine (not on CPU support list for my board too, I notice), don't see why it shouldn't work in your 890GXM-G65 board also.

890GXM-G65 will it boot?

just had a question for the people that own the 890GXM-G65 will it boot into bios with an unsupported cpu 1055t for bios flashing?
already ordered everything and dont want to have to spend money on another cpu even if it would only cost $40
MSI 890GXM-G65
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 4gb 2x2 ddr3 1600
nzxt vulcan
corsair hx 650

Quote from: saint12 on 12-February-11, 16:33:23
got everything up and running mine came with bios ver 1.6 used m-flash to flash to ver 1.8 had no problems only thing i don't like is the lan wont run at 1gbps to my netgear wnce2001 even if i select 1gb full it wont even switch from 100mb.
This is a different issue ,you should open another thread.
Anyway you can t get 1000M if the switch in the router can t do 1000.
Is the router gigabit on the LAN ports?The router will limit you.

890GXM-G65 front panel - AC' 97 or HD audio?

Hello, folks. I bought an 890GXM-G65 and I am having a doubt regarding the installation. The audio connector from the front panel splits in two. One connector reads “AC’ 97” and the other “HD Audio”. My motherboard manual says nothing about which one should I use to plug into the JAUD1.
I have been researching and looks like AC’ 97 is from AMD boards and HD audio is from Intel boards. Is that correct? Should then I use the connector AC’ 97?
I appreciate any help!
Cheers,

Quote from: Stu on 07-November-10, 22:34:34
Ujee,
Please keep discussion of your problem in your own thread, don't hijack others.
Oh my bad. Never thought it was called a "hijack". I'm sorry for this.

Tales of Extreme Frustration: 890GXM-G65 won't POST

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