TC speed problems

Hi. My TC worked great for about two days and then I started noticing that downloads were taking a very long time, much longer than at first and definitely much longer than the AirPort Extreme it replaced. My two computers also now fail to notice the TC hard drive and the extra hard drive I have attached to the TC via USB. Any ideas on why it's so slow? Thanks in advance

I was having problems connecting the Time Capsule to our Roadrunner modem. Suggestions to power off the modem didn't work. But this was because the modem works for phone service, too, and it has battery back-up. Unplugging the modem never forced it to reconnect.
What worked was disconnecting the modem from the cable. I unscrewed the F-connector (antenna cable) from the back of the modem, waited a few minutes, then reconnected. I got a green light!

Similar Messages

Fan speed problem Power Mac G5 Dual 1.8 GHz PowerPC - please help

Please HELP, I have a fan speed problem with my Power Mac G5 Dual 1.8 GHz PowerPC
This is a NOT an Intel machine. I am running Mac OS X v10.5.8
Power Mac G5 - PowerMac 7,2 - Power PC 970 (2.2) - 1.8 GHz with 2 CPUs - L2 Cache (per CPU) 512 KB - Memory 8 GB - Bus Speed 900 MHz - Boot ROM version 5.1.5b1
I have included below Links to download a sound file (.m4a) that I recorded of the fan speed problem and both a .pdf and .spx files of my system profile.
download sound file
http://homepage.mac.com/rep3/filechute/myG5dualsFans.m4a
down load .spx file of my system preferences
http://homepage.mac.com/rep3/filechute/systemProfileREP3-G5dual.spx
down load .pdf file of my system preferences
http://homepage.mac.com/rep3/filechute/systemProfileREP3-G5dual.pdf
When did the fan problem start?
After I replaced the mother board on the computer.
Why did I replace the mother board?
Because the experts at apple agreed with my diagnosis that the major crash problems & kernel panics must have some thing to do with a logic board gone bad. They would not work on it, because this Power Mac G5 dual 1.8 GHz machine is now a legacy model.
What I have done to attempt to fix my fan speed problem? yes I checked the obvious things, here is a list:
1) yes I checked to be sure that the new mother board was the same part number as the original one, and that all things that were unplugged from the old mother board - were actually plugged into the new mother board.
2) all the fans work, I can see them spinning if I use a flashlight and look at them (cover on and off to get at some of them)
3) check all RAM to make sure: a) it was installed properly b) that the RAM worked using TechTool Pro c) even started the machine with only the original RAM that came with it.
4) I installed a Temperature monitor - to see if there was something reading as very hot inside that was causing the machine to continually run the fans at a high speed. No, no heat issues that I can see. Here are the reading from the sensors in degrees fahrenheit, 2009-10-11 16:11:01 -0500
CPU A Die Temperature: 75.7℉
CPU B Die Temperature: 81.5℉
Drive Bay: 68.9℉
Main Logic Board Air Inlet: 64.8℉
Main Logic Board Ambient: 73.6℉
Main Logic Board Backside: 76.3℉
Memory Controller Heatsink: 93.2℉
Processor Card A Ambient: 77.5℉
Processor Card B Ambient: 77.0℉
5) zapped the PRAM
6) followed the SMU reset instructions for
Power Mac G5 (Late 2004)
To reset the SMU on a Power Mac G5 (Late 2004) computer, simply do the following:
• Turn off the computer by selecting Shut Down from the Apple menu or by holding the power button until the computer turns off.
• Remove the power cord from the computer.
• Wait two minutes.
• Plug in the power cord.
• Turn on the computer.
7) followed the SMU reset instructions:
Resetting the Cuda/PMU
How to reset the PMU:
• If the computer is on, turn it off.
• Disconnect ALL cables from the computer, including peripherals and power.
• If possible, move the computer to a place where you are not standing on carpet.
• Open the case and ground yourself by touching part of the metal frame inside the computer.
• Find the Cuda or PMU button
• Press the Cuda or PMU button ONCE. Do not press the button more than once before starting the computer up again.
• Wait 10 seconds, then reconnect the cables you removed in step 2 and turn the computer on.
• If the computer still does not respond after resetting the PMU, the computer may require service from an Apple Authorized Service Provider.
8) ran disk utilities, repaired permissions
9) found a setting in the system preferences that a chat room person suggested had something to do with fan speed. In Energy Saver, under options, processor performance was set to highest, I set it to automatic - this did not change anything that I could tell - BTW I checked my other G5 (a single processor that works fine) that is the setting that that it is set to, and it is nice and quiet.
10) restarted the machine, ..
11) found a Fan Control System Update - but it did not install when I tryed to install it -
12) booted from OSX install disk and ran that disk utility
13) used OnyX to fix disk permissions, clear caches and temp items
Nope - still have the same high speed fan problem. ... PLEASE HELP!!
I have been reading in the MacInTouch reader reports - found this: some one said to use this - thermal re-calibration using the Apple Authorized Service Providers' disk - but that's not available, at least I can not find it - anyone? have an answer to finding this - or can do it for me? I am in Chicago.

The Genius at the downtown apple store said that because it's a "legacy machine" they would not work on it, .. so should I push them?
Well, I personally think that's ridiculous, I'd Push them, I'd call AppleCare & talk up the chain if need be... there the ones that have or should have that Disc... man o man... Personally I'll never visit an Apple Store again in my lifetime, maybe try an independent AASP if none of that helps!..
http://tinyurl.com/ykomqkn
Man-o-man, pop my cork before I explode on that one, if I had anything to do with it I'd close that store.

Athalon XP clock speed problem

I hav just installed a K7N2 Delta Mobo in my system, but I'm having CPU clock speed problems.
The Bios and the Infoview program both state that the CPU clock is running at 1105 Mhz. I am sure this should be 1533 Mhz for an 1800xp.
I updated the bios using MSI live update, and the first time I booted the system, the bios displayed the speed as 1533 Mhz, but on every subsequent boot up it is back down to 1105 Mhz again.
How can I get my processor to run at the correct speed?
Thanks
Trev

Sorry, just realised I have posted in the wrong forum.
Please forgive me

K9N2 Sli Platinum + SSD OCZ Vertex 3 = Slow Speed Problem [PARTIALLY SOLVED]

Hey folks,
I have a problem with my new SSD. I only get sequential reads of 140MB/s and writes of 114MB/s.
I think it is a driver related issue. I once got faster SATA2-like speeds but cannot reproduce the system settings again... Everything back to SATA1-like speeds after reboot.
First my pc specs:
MSI K9N2 Sli Platinum, BIOS v3.9
- 6 SATAII ports by nForce 750a SLI
- 2 ESATA (External-SATA) ports (back panel) by JMB363
- Supports storage and data transfers at up to 3 Gb/s
AMD Phenom II 965 Black
Patriot PV224G8500ELKB Viper II Series DDR2 4GB (2 x 2GB, CL5 PC-8500/1066MHz)
SSD SATAIII OCZ Vertex 3, 120GB, FW v2.11
LG Internal BlueRay BH10LS30
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
I only get very slow speeds with the SSD. I tried so many things that I am getting very frustrated now, I am even thinking about getting a new board and ram just to get the SSD up to speed...
1)
I installed Win7 first with all the default settings in Windows Setup from DVD. Default "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers" driver was "Standard AHCI1.0 Serial ATA Controller".
SSD was connected to SATA1-port, On-Chip Sata Controller AHCI enabled in BIOS, Extra RAID/IDE Controller disabled.
All fine, but whichever benchmark I used (AS SSD, HD Tune Pro, Atto Disk Benchmark, CrystalDiskMark; other tools used: DriveControllerInfo, AIDA64/Everest, CrystalDiskInfo ) I got e.g. 140MB/s Read and 114MB/s Write sequentially (CrystalDiskmark, similar with random data AND only zeros ).
Trim working (it seems) with AHCI driver. I also changed to nvstor64 driver (nforce driver setup 15.56), with is marginally faster but not what you would expect from a SATAIII drive on SATAII controller.
2)
I installed Win7 using "diskpart" (Shift-F10) during disk setup, setting a cluster size of 64k instead of default. No real change.
3)
After reinstall of Win7 x64 (again...), I changed from SATA1 port to SATA6 port, also enabled Extra Raid/IDE controller set to AHCI as well.
Nothing changed. With all settings to default in Windows (ahci default driver), I then manually updated the ahci to nvstore64 driver in Device Management, rebooted.
Then a minute later after reboot I got the following Sequential speeds with CrystalDiskMark:
273MB/s read and 137MB/s write (random data) + 274MB/s read and 220MB/s write (with zeros) !!!
While I ran this benchmark Windows came up with a message: "You must restart your computer to apply these changes - Restart Now/Restart Later".
After the previos reboot, when I changed manually from AHCI to NVSTORE, I had changed nothing in the current session, apart from running CrystalDiskMark.
I did reboot and I was back to the slow SSD speeds again = 140/114 MB/s...
4)
I have tried every possible combination of mainboard SATA ports, drivers changing with nvidia setup/manually, deleting and disabling controllers (incl BSOD and startup repair :D ), chaning bios settings around, but I just cannot get back the faster speeds
There is never any change in speed, whether I use ahci or nvstore64, whichever benchmark I use, whether random or zeros...
5)
Could the SSD be broken, something internally preventing it from faster speeds (with this one random exception)?
Could it be that my K9N2 SataPorts only allows for / reduced to SATA1 speeds?
Am I missing something with the driver setup?
Do I need additional drivers for the extra JMicron Controller when using SataPorts 5/6 ?
I have no other mainboard to test this with...
Please guys, I am going to jump out of the window if I can't fix it... :(
Thanks, Mike

Hey guys - problem 'solved':
I tested the OCZ SSD Vertex 3 120GB with following sata3 controller card http://www.lycom.com.tw/PE-115H.htm.
The card itself works immediately (needs at least PCIe x4 slot, will work slower otherwise but still faster than the OCZ SSD @sata1 with nvidia chipset).
There is some raid setup, doesn't apply to me, the boot even with the card is really only a few seconds longer and not annoying at all. Windows (7 x64) needed a driver, supplied on CD (which is cheap and making noise like h**l). The card works w/o the driver but doesn't harm to install it...
Also, just to clarify, this sata controller card did not need any specific setup at all. Just put it in, plug in sata cable (I use akasa sata3-rated), maybe change boot device in BIOS (I didn't even have to), done - booting Windows as usual.
Benchmark CDM with sata controller card Lycom PE-115H:
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3845/cdmpe115hahci0x00.png
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/7549/cdmpe115hahcirand.png
Speed is much better than before with nvidia chipset 750a SLI controller: sata1 (sata2 whenever it randomly worked):
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/505/cdmahci0x0.png
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6258/cdmahci0x0sata6contnv64.png
Final thoughts:
Well, I am happy with the SSD speed now (PCIe limited to 5Gbps). However, I had to spent quite some time to get it working on my sata2-cabable mainboard. Finally, I had to buy a extra controller card to get it working reliably at speeds faster than sata1. There is hardly any useful information on why this problem occurs with (older) nvidia chipsets and OCZ (sata3) SSDs. I still think that OCZ must know about this problem, but regards this issue as low priority, while at the same time not planning on giving up on sales to people with nvidia chipsets. Maybe OCZ should just make a big sticker on the box the drives come in with something like "Does/Might not work with nvidia chipsets, please use third-party sata controller card or different SSD manufacturer". But then none of these potential customers would buy OCZ SSDs...
I will keep the sata3 controller, anyway handy to have, but return the OCZ Vertex 3 120GB and replace it with a SSD from a different manufacturer (Corsair Force GT, Patriot and OWC are not that great to get around here). The benchmarks for most people will not achieve the maximum advertised OCZ speeds anyway, so why not go with a brand that allows for some plug'n'play with some customer support.
Hope this post helps others like me with their nvidia chipset + sata1 speed problem
Cheers, Mike

Java Audio Metronome | Timing and Speed Problems

Hi all,
I’m starting to work on a music/metronome application in Java and I’m running into some problems with the timing and speed.
For testing purposes I’m trying to play two sine wave tones at the same time at regular intervals, but instead they play in sync for a few beats and then slightly out of sync for a few beats and then back in sync again for a few beats.
From researching good metronome programming, I found that Thread.sleep() is horrible for timing, so I completely avoided that and went with checking System.nanoTime() to determine when the sounds should play.
I’m using AudioSystem’s SourceDataLine for my audio player and I’m using a thread for each tone that constantly polls System.nanoTime() in order to determine when the sound should play. I create a new SourceDataLine and delete the previous one each time a sound plays, because the volume fluctuates if I leave the line open and keep playing sounds on the same line. I create the player before polling nanoTime() so that the player is already created and all it has to do is play the sound when it is time.
In theory this seemed like a good method for getting each sound to play on time, but it’s not working correctly.
At the moment this is just a simple test in Java, but my goal is to create my app on mobile devices (Android, iOS, Windows Phone, etc)...however my current method isn’t even keeping perfect time on a PC, so I’m worried that certain mobile devices with limited resources will have even more timing problems. I will also be adding more sounds to it to create more complex rhythms, so it needs to be able to handle multiple sounds going simultaneously without sounds lagging.
Another problem I’m having is that the max tempo is controlled by the length of the tone since the tones don’t overlap each other. I tried adding additional threads so that every tone that played would get its own thread...but that really screwed up the timing, so I took it out. I would like to have a way to overlap the previous sound to allow for much higher tempos.
I posted this question on StackOverflow where I got one reply and my response back explains why I went this direction instead of preloading a larger buffer (which is what they recommended). In short, I did try the buffer method first, but I want to also update a “beat counter” visual display and there was no way to know when the hardware was actually playing the sounds from the buffer. I mentioned that on StackOverflow and I also asked a couple more questions regarding the buffer method, but I haven’t received any more responses.
http://stackoverflow.com/questions/24110247/java-audio-metronome-timing-and-speed-problems
Any help getting these timing and speed issues straightened out would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Here is my code...
SoundTest.java
import java.awt.*;
import java.awt.event.*;
import javax.swing.*;
import javax.swing.event.*;
import java.io.*;
import javax.sound.sampled.*;
public class SoundTest implements ActionListener {
    static SoundTest soundTest;
    // ENABLE/DISABLE SOUNDS
    boolean playSound1 = true;
    boolean playSound2 = true;
    JFrame mainFrame;
    JPanel mainContent;
    JPanel center;
    JButton buttonPlay;
    int sampleRate = 44100;
    long startTime;
    SourceDataLine line = null;
    int tickLength;
    boolean playing = false;
    SoundElement sound01;
    SoundElement sound02;
    public static void main (String[] args) {
        soundTest = new SoundTest();
        SwingUtilities.invokeLater(new Runnable() { public void run() {
            soundTest.gui_CreateAndShow();
    public void gui_CreateAndShow() {
        gui_FrameAndContentPanel();
        gui_AddContent();
    public void gui_FrameAndContentPanel() {
        mainContent = new JPanel();
        mainContent.setLayout(new BorderLayout());
        mainContent.setPreferredSize(new Dimension(500,500));
        mainContent.setOpaque(true);
        mainFrame = new JFrame("Sound Test");
        mainFrame.setContentPane(mainContent);
        mainFrame.setDefaultCloseOperation(JFrame.EXIT_ON_CLOSE);
        mainFrame.pack();
        mainFrame.setVisible(true);
    public void gui_AddContent() {
        JPanel center = new JPanel();
        center.setOpaque(true);
        buttonPlay = new JButton("PLAY / STOP");
        buttonPlay.setActionCommand("play");
        buttonPlay.addActionListener(this);
        buttonPlay.setPreferredSize(new Dimension(200, 50));
        center.add(buttonPlay);
        mainContent.add(center, BorderLayout.CENTER);
    public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent e) {
        if (!playing) {
            playing = true;
            if (playSound1)
                sound01 = new SoundElement(this, "Sound1", 800, 1);
            if (playSound2)
                sound02 = new SoundElement(this, "Sound2", 1200, 1);
            startTime = System.nanoTime();
            if (playSound1)
                new Thread(sound01).start();
            if (playSound2)
                new Thread(sound02).start();
        else {
            playing = false;
SoundElement.java
import java.io.*;
import javax.sound.sampled.*;
public class SoundElement implements Runnable {
    SoundTest soundTest;
    // TEMPO CHANGE
    // 750000000=80bpm | 300000000=200bpm | 200000000=300bpm
    long nsDelay = 750000000;
    long before;
    long after;
    long diff;
    String name="";
    int clickLength = 4100;
    byte[] audioFile;
    double clickFrequency;
    double subdivision;
    SourceDataLine line = null;
    long audioFilePlay;
    public SoundElement(SoundTest soundTestIn, String nameIn, double clickFrequencyIn, double subdivisionIn){
        soundTest = soundTestIn;
        name = nameIn;
        clickFrequency = clickFrequencyIn;
        subdivision = subdivisionIn;
        generateAudioFile();
    public void generateAudioFile(){
        audioFile = new byte[clickLength * 2];
        double temp;
        short maxSample;
        int p=0;
        for (int i = 0; i < audioFile.length;){
            temp = Math.sin(2 * Math.PI * p++ / (soundTest.sampleRate/clickFrequency));
            maxSample = (short) (temp * Short.MAX_VALUE);
            audioFile[i++] = (byte) (maxSample & 0x00ff);
            audioFile[i++] = (byte) ((maxSample & 0xff00) >>> 8);
    public void run() {
        createPlayer();
        audioFilePlay = soundTest.startTime + nsDelay;
        while (soundTest.playing){
            if (System.nanoTime() >= audioFilePlay){
                play();
                destroyPlayer();
                createPlayer();
                audioFilePlay += nsDelay;
        try { destroyPlayer(); } catch (Exception e) { }
    public void createPlayer(){
        AudioFormat af = new AudioFormat(soundTest.sampleRate, 16, 1, true, false);
        try {
            line = AudioSystem.getSourceDataLine(af);
            line.open(af);
            line.start();
        catch (Exception ex) { ex.printStackTrace(); }
    public void play(){
        line.write(audioFile, 0, audioFile.length);
    public void destroyPlayer(){
        line.drain();
        line.close();

Thanks but you have never posted reply s0lutions before ?? And F 4 is definitely not 10 times faster as stated before I upgraded !!

WRT54gc speed problem

hy. i've got more of a question than a problem to be honest. and i must also say i understand the technical terms in networking but i ain't that good and i'm sorry if i can't really make myself clear.
until about 5 days ago my Internet Connection was made through a modem which was connected to the router thus having internet to 4 computers (2 LAN, 2 Wireless). during this time, my router was configured with Automatic DHCP (or something like that) and a MAC clone of my PC.during this time and after about 4 years of fidelity , my internet connection was of about 6MB => ~700kbs download.
now, my ISP provider "upgraded" my connection and have direct cable connection. anyway, i now have a user name & a password. i switched the connection type to PPoE but i did not change anything else. the other settings are the same: MAC clone, open ports,Wireless MAC filters.
So here is my problem:
-if my PC is directly connected to the internet, i can achieve an efective download speed of 10 MBs (100 Mb connection or something like that) and upload speed of 1,6 MBs (12 Mb connection)
-if i connect through the router i can only achieve about 3 MBs download speed (only 2,5MB the other PC LAN connected -> weird i'd say).
As far as i know, the router should allow speeds of 10 MBs for 1 PC if the other computers aren't connected or don't need internet at a given time.
So i was wondering if this speed problem could be related to the fact that i still have the other settings (mostly the MAC clone of my PC; this is the only one i can think of that might create a problem) or it might just be hardware related (doesn't allow me better speeds or something).

well, since yesterday, i've reseted the router and only added the user name & password provided by my ISP but still it doesn't work as it should.
about my connection, as far as i can say, my contract with my ISP has been modified from the cable contract to a fiberlink contract, most likely the cheapest (they have 2 kinds of contracts). but even with this cheap-fiber contract, i still should have a total 10MBs download speed! yet, my exact connection is of about 3MBs DL speed total. i know this because i used for download 2 PCs and have 3MBs DL and 1,5MBs UP.
anyway, if it help here is how i think my contract looks like:
Maximum bandwidth in your town -> 50 Mb / s
Maximum Internet bandwidth -> 50 Mb / s
Traffic with maximum bandwidth on internet -> unlimited
is it possible that the router only uses the Internet bandwidth ??? if so, is it possible to configure it so it uses the other one too?
or is it just hardware limitations ?
Message Edited by dejeuro on 03-03-2010 02:39 AM

Broadband Usage and speed problems.

Hi.
I have question about broadband usage.
Its 11 days and bt website says I used more then 20GB!
Its nearly 1.8 GB per day! I used Internet for browsing website and receive one email pre day, I download twice large amount (about 1-1,5GB) and nothing more!
I just wonder what going on? I try monitor my usage day by day from 5 days ago and its worst and worst!!!
I nothing download but my usage going very fast.
Its looks like I will be download about 3 movies per day that means I will have now more then 30 movies! Its must be something wrong!
I used before VM and my average Internet usage was about 15-20GB per Month with solid 10MB speed.
Now my speed is **bleep** from 8mb to 1mb and sometimes less then 512kb!!! And usage is higher !!!
How can I see details about my usage?
And q2
About speed - in my area BT Infinity will be available from 31.12.2010
Its mean still BT have same works, it might be cause my slow broadband?
And from 25.11 till now is same problem with broadband, in three days I must reset BT Hub because there is no Internet. On BT Hub anything looks fine, Is IP address etc... But is no Internet telephone and no Internet as well.
I check by used ping bbc.co.uk

Andy_N wrote:
Hi.
I hope you don't mind me asking a few questions, this may help to determine why your usage is as high as you're seeing.
Do you have more than one computer connected ? Do you use iPlayer, or watch lots of youtube stuff ? Do you have any games machines such as XBox connected to the Internet ?
Are you uploading lots of things ? uploads count as well as downloads.
Are you up to date with all security and anti-virus packages, and have you run any scans recently ? (sometimes viruses and trojans can cause a usage problem).
Your inherent speed problem could be due to various reasons, for example worsening line conditions due to weather and general wear and tear. Strangely viruses can cause a noticeable slow down, but mainly due to the computer being infected rather than the line being slow.
Can you posssibly post the hub stats ?
If you're using a PC, download something like Networx usage monitor and see if that can help. Of course it needs to be on each PC, but can't see the usage of games machines or Internet TV (or iPhone use etc).
I used only 2 machines. Desktop PC and laptop. Laptop very light, just 1-2 hours per day only websurfing (3-5 websites with no movie or high quality images, 90% is just plain text)
I not download lots of stuff, Like I just say, in VM my average monthly usage was 15-20 GB and I download few movie and lots of music.
In December I just download one movie other traffic is just webserfing email.
Youtube - yes I watch, but its not new staff for me, like just say my usage is not deferent then was in VM!
Now usage monitor on BT web site say I used more then 20GB! in 11 days!!! if one movie will be 0.7GB its means I download about 30 movies!
Its massive! I never download 30 movies in 2-3 months )
This start about 5 days ago, when my strip goes to orange. My average Internet usage is 1.8GB !!! Even I for 2 days used Internet very little.
I nothing upload.
It is not possible, to anny worm or viruses used so big bandusuage if any software used Internet connection in background (like systems) its just kilobits not gigabits!
If I will be use very hardly Internet I will be no rise alarm. But I now what I used. I have Internet for more then 7 years and now how far I go.
And now is very strange - I less used inherent I have more GB used!
In my calculation if my average usage per day will be 1.8GB I will used 55GB!!! I never used more 20 - max 30GB! It must be something wrong on BT site.
I get BT Broadband option 2 be cause, I now I used about 15-20GB per months and BT Broadband option 1 is not for me, but 20GB in 11 days!
We not talk abut 100MB! or 500MB per day we talk about nearly 2GB per day! Its massive!
Is any chance to get detail Internet usage?
Q2
I loose Internet connection 3 times per week, so I need push reset button on hub.
I left once Hub with no reset but in 5 hours it will still no Internet.
Its looking very strange, because anything looks OK except I loos Internet phone (no blue telephone light)
In hub stats is IP, is Downstream etc... but when I ping bbc.co.uk it say: host unavailable or similar.
After reset working well. My be my Hub is faulty?
Many Thanks for reply!
Hub Stats
Line state
Connected
Connection time
1 day, 3:31:03
Downstream
10,124 Kbps
Upstream
1,022 Kbps
ADSL settings
VPI/VCI
0/38
Type
PPPoA
Modulation
ITU-T G.992.5
Latency type
Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up)
8.8 dB / 4.9 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up)
31.0 dB / 15.5 dB
Output power (Down/Up)
20.9 dBm / 12.4 dBm
Loss of Framing (Local)
0
Loss of Signal (Local)
0
Loss of Power (Local)
0
FEC Errors (Down/Up)
139453 / 426
CRC Errors (Down/Up)
24 / 2147480000
HEC Errors (Down/Up)
nil / 61462
Error Seconds (Local)
16

Another 3G Data speed problem on 4.1

Hi All,
Background info first:
Using Win 7 Ultimate, iPhone 3gs 16gb, iTunes 10.0.0.68
Located in Milton, Ontario, Canada (near Toronto), Rogers Cell network
While my iPhone was on os 4.0, everything worked perfectly, I was getting 5 bars of service almost anywhere I was, and the 3g data was almost always fast (about 99% of the time it worked without an issue). On rare occasions my signal strength would dip to 4 bars, but that was the worst of it.
I then upgraded to ios 4.0.2, and things have been downhill from there. My 3g speeds are generally terrible now, I usually get 1 or 2 bars, occasionally I will get 3 bars, and only once have I seen 4 bars. Needless to say, I can't really get online with much reliability anymore.
I then noticed an update and upgraded to 4.1, things are even worse now. My geocaching app refuses to connect to the gps, it just hangs, and I am frequently missing phone calls (phone doesn't even ring, I just get a text telling me I missed a call). Battery life is all over the map now as well, some nights I will go to bed with battery at 100%, and when I get up it is at 88%, other times it has completely drained.
I contacted Apple, they told me about the problem where the signal strength wasn't being reported properly, and now I am just seeing what my true signal strength is. I don't buy that at all, because if that is the case, then if my phone was showing 5 bars, and I was actually only getting 2 bars, I was still able to get really fast speeds, now that it is "correctly" showing 2 bars, I am getting terrible reception. Apple support suggested I contact an apple store and book an appointment.
Went to apple store, met with the genius bar guy, he was really helpful, he thought it might be my sim card, so he gave me a new sim card, and then he decided he might as well give me a new phone in case it was the device, new phone came with os 4.0.2, so the only thing that really fixed was the geocaching app, but to get all of my contacts back, I had to restore from a backup, and I am back at 4.1, and no data speed.
I contacted my cell carrier, and they can't figure it out either (one of the reps even told me to jailbreak my phone so I could downgrade to an earlier os).
My mother in law has an ipad, on the same carrier, and she lives way out in the middle of the countryside. She gets 5 bars at her house, I get no service.
Just wondering what people think is the issue, is it phone + os, or is it network?
My thought is that it is the new os, my wife has the same phone with os 4.0, but on a different carrier, and she always gets 5 bars of strength.
Thanks
Mike

Hi mlethbridge
to clarify, I am not interested in jailbreaking the phone at all, I was just shocked that a customer service rep actually suggested I do that.
Yes you have to wonder sometimes
When I first contacted apple customer support, they told me to try restoring from a backup, did that but no change, then I restored to a new state, but I was still getting the 3g speed problems.
When I received the new phone from apple, I did check the data speed, and it was still slow.
So was it just slow or so slow that it was timing out before it would load anything?
The geocaching app problem has been solved, I don't know why, but when I checked in Location Services, geocaching was turned off, that was a real simple fix (boy I feel like an idiot on that one), but that obviously didn't help the 3g speed.
Yes, I wish sometimes all things were that easy to fix.
As for the contacts, I always just kept them on my phone, count that as a lesson learned, they have all been synced over to my computer now.
Good to hear, I would hate to see a post saying 'all contacts lost how do I get them back?'
I personally treat my phone a portable storage device and never have anything on it that I cannot afford to loose.
The point I was making with the iPad comparison is that my mother in law and I should be getting almost identical speeds (I am aware that the antenna might be a bit different in the iPad, but it shouldn't make that much of a difference), so I am not sure if it is just the way my cell network interacts with the new firmware, or if it is just the new firmware itself (if that makes sense?)
I know what you mean, I'm not sure of the specs of the ipad v 3GS, but yes I would expect them to be reasonably similar.
I did a bit more testing today, and went for quite a drive out to my brothers, the closest cell tower to him is about 5kms away (from my house it is about 1 km), and I was actually getting 4 and 5 bars out there, and the data speed was pretty good (not as good as I was used to, but it was a speed I could live with), but back at my house, I am getting only 1 bar again.
On the surface of things, it sounds like its working as it should, all be it a bit slow maybe.
I am really waffling as to which is at fault, is it the firmware or my cell network.
I was recently discussing a roughly similar issue with another user where his connection on 3G was timing out Unfortunately we could not determine if it was firmware or carrier in the end, his problem just evaporated and his data just suddenly came good, which was great for him, but a bit frustrating for everyone as the cause was never found.
In that case everything was attempted. You can read about here http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2570292 if you are interested.
Try a few things;
Make sure that you have the latest carrier setting file. It is possible that with the new 4.1 firmware, this file also requires updating. I know my carrier updated their's (Telstra Australia) after the upgrade.
This should be an automatic thing, but it doesn't hurt to check. Connect your phone to iTunes and check for updates. If there is a carrier update available you will prompted to download it. Alternately, in the iphone go to Settings > General > About and if there is an update available, you will be prompted to downloading.
I think that you want to determine is just what speed are you getting.
My first step would to download a speed checker app, I use Speedtest.net app, but any free tester will do and use it to test your download and upload speeds. Compare this with different locations within your house and also where you are showing a much stronger signal. You will probably find that it varies a bit depending on your location.
See if you can compare it with another iphone on the same firmware, same network, same location, or compare it with the ipad, but I think it would be better with another iphone.
What happens if you turn off 3G and access only by Edge, speeds will drop because Edge is slower, but by how much? And WIFI, what is data like on it?
What happens if you restore to 'new' and just sync the speed tester app. Does that resolve anything? This will determine if something else in the background is causing the issue.
On that though, what other apps do you have running at the same time that could cause a slowdown? Mail? Facebook? Streaming Music? If multiple apps are running that require internet connection and then you open Safari to browse all the apps share the connection speed between them, so it could appear that the internet connection is slow.
Hope this helps a little

LAN speed problem WRT54G v5

Hi,
I have a speed problem using ONLY the LAN.
I've disabled the firewalls, antivirus and connected the line directly to the computer using PPPoE without any modems.
I've tested the line with a big download using torrents. My speed is at 5-6 Mbps.
If i connect using router (using DHCP, PPPoE protocol and even with port forwarding set) my speed goes down to 1.5-2 Mbps.
I have only 1 computer linked to the router, but the IP provided by ISP it's dynamic, so i'm using router only for UPnP. I tryied with port forwarding bypassing the UPnP and still dosen't work.
The firmware is the last i've downloaded from your site 1 week ago.
Any suggestions please ?
Message Edited by zgamby on 10-01-2009 12:11 AM

DI followed your instructions and did all that.
No change. Same speed
Is it possible for that to be the maximum hardware speed ?

WRT310N V2 Speed Problems

I bought the WRT310N V2 router some time ago, and I've noticed that over the course of a single day, or two, the speed drops from ~10 Mbps, which my ISP gives me, to about ~3 Mbps, or even less. To fix this I've been disconnecting the power then reconnecting it, which usually solves the problem. Is this a hardware problem? Or would it be a Firmware issue? I know this isn't normal so any insight would be great. Thanks!

I'm having the exact same speed problems with a brand new WRT310N with the latest firmware. My speed is 20Mbps or above which is what it starts at. Slowly over the course of a few hours it drops down to under 4Mbps. So annoying.
Also, some URLs suddenly become unavailable. I know that sounds wierd, but I work in computing, I know what I'm doing and for example www.yahoo.com stopped working. After a reboot, all fine again.
I really hoped Linksys/Cisco would be reliable. How lame.

WRT160NL internet speed problem

WRT160NL
Firmware Version: 1.0.03
Internet Connection Type L2TP
SPI Firewall Protection: Disabled
Internet Filter - all disabled
Upnp - all disabled
Hi, I have internet speed problem.
When I connect to internet from my PC - speed is more than 90 Mbps, but when I use my router - about 45 Mbps.
What the problem?

Are there any other devices connected to the router? Any new devices you did not have connected to your Linksys/Cisco router? Are you running the default configuration on the router? Check the computer if you are running Windows update on the back ground. If it is running then try to disable it temporarily. Here is the link for how to disable it: http://www.techtalkz.com/windows-7/515869-windows-update-enable-disable-automatic-updates-windows-7-...
As far as wireless is concern try the following settings:
# Open up the browser and on the address bar type 192.168.1.1 that will open up the Gateway setup page.
# Make the Channel Width to 20MHz only and select the Channel to 1, 3, 6, 9, 11..
#Adjust the following advanced wireless settings:
~~ Lower the beacon interval from 100 to 75
~~ Lower the fragmentation threshold from 2346 to 2306
~~ Lower the RTS threshold from 2347 to 2307
Then check the connectivity status.

Hi! i have a macbook pro 3.1 with a 10.6.8 version. I want a 10.7 but i dont want any speed problems, what do you think?

Hi! i have a macbook pro 3.1 with core 2 duo, 3gb ram and a 10.6.8 version. I want a 10.7 version but i dont want any speed problems, what do you think?

Some MacBook Pro versions cannot be upgraded past 10.6.8; others are maxed out at 10.7.5. newer models can go all the way to 10.10. So it is important to know exactly what version you have--there may be close to 40 variants produced since the MB made its debut in 2006.
You can safely give us a snapshot of your model and its current config that will allow us to deternmmine your model and its upgrade potential, plus show it you have any software that may impede any upgrades. Please download and install this free utility:
http://www.etresoft.com/etrecheck
It is secure and written by one of our most valued members to allow users to show details of their computer's configuration in Apple Support Communities without revealing any sensitive personal data.
Run the program and click the "Copy report to clipboard" button when it displays the results. Then return here and paste the report into a response to your initial post. It can often show if any harmful files/programs are dragging down your performance.
Remember that, on leaving OS10.6.8, you lose the ability to run older softare written for older PowerPC Macs (yours in Intel-based). Programs such as Office 2004 will no longer work (min of Office 2008 needed to work on newer OS versions), and AppleWorks will stop working completely

Do you encounter speed problem with time capsule

I have speed problem with my networth using time capsule

What's your Modem? If you are using DSL (ADSL) or fiber optical ?

Broadband connection and speed problems

Hi,
On Wednesday morning my broadband connection went down and could not reconnect from 600am til 700pm. It did manage to get a connection to stay up at around 900pm, but since then the connection has dropped about four times a day.
I have checked my equipment, wiring etc, connected directly to the test socket, using a new ADSL microfilter etc etc. I have also checked for known problems in my area and have done some quiet call tests(17070).
There are apparently no problems in my area, but a couple of the quiet call tests were crackly.
Since last night (Friday) at around 900pm the connection has managed to stay up but my connection speeds, both up and down are much much lower than they used to be.
Since Wednesday night I have performed some BT speedtests.
D/L Profile for my line is - 17.64 Mbps, but actual speed currently varies between around 8 and 11 Mbps.
U/L Profile for my line is - 0.83 Mbps, but speed currenty varies between 0.01 and 0.3 Mbps.
Before Wednesday, my download speeds were typically 16-17Mbps and upload speeds were typically 0.8Mbps.
With very little variation.
I have included some stats from my BT HH3...
Wednesday nights ADSL Line status, after I managed to get a connection to stay up. below;
ADSL Line Status
Connection Information
Line state: Connected
Connection time: 0 days, 04:59:49
Downstream: 18.65 Mbps
Upstream: 443.9 Kbps
ADSL Settings
VPI/VCI: 0/38
Type: PPPoA
Modulation: G.992.5 Annex A
Latency type: Fast
Noise margin (Down/Up): 4.9 dB / 26.4 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up): 11.1 dB / 5.3 dB
Output power (Down/Up): 20.1 dBm / 12.9 dBm
FEC Events (Down/Up): 0 / 0
CRC Events (Down/Up): 758 / 36
Loss of Framing (Local/Remote): 0 / 0
Loss of Signal (Local/Remote): 0 / 0
Loss of Power (Local/Remote): 0 / 0
HEC Events (Down/Up): 23957 / 6
Error Seconds (Local/Remote): 300 / 4
Current ADSL line status. After the line being up for 17 hours below;
ADSL Line Status
Connection Information
Line state: Connected
Connection time: 0 days, 17:17:36
Downstream: 19.52 Mbps
Upstream: 443.9 Kbps
ADSL Settings
VPI/VCI: 0/38
Type: PPPoA
Modulation: G.992.5 Annex A
Latency type: Fast
Noise margin (Down/Up): 3.2 dB / 28.1 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up): 11.0 dB / 5.2 dB
Output power (Down/Up): 20.2 dBm / 12.2 dBm
FEC Events (Down/Up): 0 / 0
CRC Events (Down/Up): 133 / 36
Loss of Framing (Local/Remote): 0 / 0
Loss of Signal (Local/Remote): 0 / 0
Loss of Power (Local/Remote): 0 / 0
HEC Events (Down/Up): 636 / 9
Error Seconds (Local/Remote): 117 / 4
One thing that stands out is the Noise Margin of 4.9dB and now 3.2dB. I gather that these values are on the low side. Is 3.2dB acceptable?
I assume my line attenuation values are low as I live very close to my local exchange. I assume that these values are good.
There are some CRC HEC and Error Seconds values. I must admit that I dont fully understand these but I assume these are not good.
One other thing worth mentioning is that the phone cable to my property comes along my front wall over from a neighbouring property. Whilst checking this cable this morning in the daylight, I have noticed that someone, most probably my neighbour, has pulled the cable way from its fixing on the wall in order to put a fence post up on the wall.
The fence post has been there for a few months, with no apparent affect ro my phone and broadband, but I'm concerned that this could have damaged the cable, splitting the shielding or breaking a wire in the cable, or perhaps loosened the connectors to the juntion box it is connected to on the neighbours wall.
Could damage to the cable be the cause of my connection and speed problems?
Also, is it possible that my BTHH3 is faulty?
Any advice would be very welcome.
Thanks
Solved!
Go to Solution.

A little more information.
I have noticed that on a number of occasions when making or receiving voice calls, the broadband connection completely drops. It doesnt happen on all calls, and doesnt seem to happen when just going 'offhook' and listening to a dialling tone.
There is a definite crackle and hiss on most of the voice calls. But only seems to be audible on the home phone.
After a little browsing, I came upon a logging program "Routerstatshub". When I leave this running it logs changes to ADSL stats.
Looking at the logs, I've noticed that when making voice calls, the upstream noise margin always seems to drop considerably, sometimes down to 0dB.
On some calls, both upstream and downstream noise margin drop to 0dB and the broadband connection drops.
I have also noticed that upstream line attenuation increases from around 5dB to around 28dB every hour or so. This doesnt appear to coincide with the voice calls.
CRC and HEC error increase dramatically at the same time as the noise margin changes. HEC goes up by 10s of thousands.
I'm still directly connected into the mastersocket with a new microfilter and no extension cable.
By the way, my connection speeds went down to an all time low yesterday , 1.7Mbps down.
I have now replaced my DECT phone with a corded phone and will make some more voice calls to see if that makes any difference.
Any ideas about what the problem could be would be greatly appreciated.

Time Capsule router speed problem

Hi,
First of all sorry for my english!
A few days ago I started having speed problem with internet.
I use a Time Capsule 2Go as router and I notify recently a lost of speed when I download a movie via my appleTV. I never have this kind of problem.
My normal speed is about 14Mbits/sec. so when I rent a movie and I have to wait 5 hours before been able to watch it, it's not normal.
I contact my internet supplier/distributor and he checkout with my neighborhood to compare their speed with mine, and I was the only one to have speed problem.
Than he suggest me to run a ''speed data test'' on their website, and my speed was around 0.75Mbits/sec.
To be sure it was my router and not their modem he ask me to plug internet directly in my iMac and run the test again.
Well I was return at a normal speed, that is to say, 14Mbits/sec.
So he told me the problem was my router and not their modem.
So I restart it and everything came back as normal. But today it was return to a very low speed.
I restart it again and it still slow.
My question :
Is it really my TC the problem and what is the solution? Buy a new one?
I dont know which generation it is. Maybe the serial No. can help. C0PHK08GDM73
Thank you

My computer don't stop asking me to update my TC to the early version. How can I stop that?
Open AirPort Utility and then click on the AirPort Utility menu, then click on Preferences
Remove the check mark in the box next to "Check for updates when opening......"
Remove the check mark in the box next to "Check for updates automatically......"

How I resolved my Apple TV download speed problems

I have been experiencing download speed problems with my Apple TV2 for a while. The performance was so bad that I couldn't buy or rent movies from Apple TV, because it would take hours to even start the download. I wasn't sure if the problem was with my ISP (Comcast), the modem, or the wireless router.
I just logged in to my wireless router (Cisco Linksys E300) and changed the following two settings:
Network Mode = Wireless-N Only
Channel Width = 20 Mhz Only
After restarting my Apple TV2, movie streaming is now perfect. It took less than one minute to start the streaming of a recently purchased movie.
I recalled reading some time ago that a Network Mode which allows switching between B, G and N wireless modes can cause problems with streaming. Perhaps each time switching occurs, the Apple TV has to renegotiate with the iTunes Store. I'm not sure that the "Channel Width" setting is necessary or relevant, but since I'm happily streaming again, I don't really care.
I hope that this helps others resolve this problem.

If you have home sharing enabled on the Apple TV and an IOS running on the same network you can use the remote app. Otherwise, you will need to purchase a new remote.

TC speed problems

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