Temperatures

Just wondering why my system temperatures are so high. Cpu on the other hand is good at 93/34 degs F/C. No matter what I do both CoreCentre and (more accurate) MBM5 shows 91/33 degs F/C. This is after 10 mins idling (not overclocked) and a room/ambient temperature of 68 or 69 degs F.
Any ideas ?
My Concoction:
PowMax Aluminum Case with 400 watt ps
NOTE: When was the last time you checked power rating on Surge Protector ?
MSI K8T neo FIS2R(BIOS 1.1)
AMD Athlon 64 3000+
Crucial 256MB DDR PC-3200
Zalman cnps 7000A-cu HSF
USR Modem 2610B - Linux tested and compatable
Floppies: 3 1/2 & 5 1/4"
Gigabyte Radeon 9200 128MB
Fixed HD: Hitachi-IBM SATA 80GB
Mounted in removable HD bays: ATA-66 IBM 15GB, Maxtor 29GB, Western Dig 10GB
ATA-100 Western Dig 38GB ( most HD jumpers set to CSEL)
Syquest 1GB drive & 30 or more cartridges
TDKs : CD-R/RW 10X and seperate DVD +R/+RW 4X burners
Winblows 98 (1st edition), Linux SUSe v9.0 Pro for Athlon64
(Coming: Winblows 98SE - stop laughing)

I have some good news. I found one dead hot spot on my computer ! It is on the top rear right side of my computer. I just now finished the hole and mounted and powered a 80MM fan. A minor problem but I had to mount the fan ON TOP of case which means I had to cut another small hole for the power leads to go down into the case.
Case/System temperature now is steady at 82F/28C. This also improved the CPU temps slightly to 91F/33C. Total fans used so far: one 6 inch 110 volt 15 watt (unknown RPM and CFM) at the bottom forcing air to top, one 90MM 12 volt fan near top middle forcing air out and one 80MM 12 volt (described above) also at top exhausting air to top. I have no side facing fans (I call them side winders) except of course the Zalman CPU HSF. I am going to look for one more hot spot. When I find it and cure it then I am declaring this Computer Summer ready.
In case anyone wondered I also have a Shuttle AK31 mobo with AMD XP1500+. It also is mounted in a Aluminum case with 400 watt power supply. Its temps are Case/System 77F but CPU at 95F. Its higher CPU temp can be blamed on standard aluminum Heat sink with 80MM smart fan. It is 2 years old and I am tinkering with the idea of upgrading it to a AMD "Thorton" XP2400+ and since the Zalman has performed so well on the Athlon 64 I think I will upgrade the HSF to a Zalman copper 6000 (four mounting holes near the ZIFF socket 'A' instead of the MSI K8T neo's two).
ec.

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Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
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Thx guys for your support !

Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt. After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH. Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that. Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one. The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff. Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

My iPad mini won't work at room temperature. I have to warm it up in my hands/arms for 2-3 minutes before the screen works correctly. Anyone else have this issue or know a solution?

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I Also have this problem!!
In my situation, the screen simply started exhibiting the same symptoms a few weeks ago (early February) for no apparent reason. At first I thought the screen was dead, but discovered the heat solution by accident. Now I turn it on and keep it from going to sleep until I go to bed. Thank goodness the battery is still awesome on this thing.
I bought it new and still has the original screen, I keep it at home (never below 62 degrees). Coincidentally, this happened a day or two after the expiration of the warranty!! Any help figuring this one out would be eternally appreciated.
iPad mini retina Wi-Fi, iOS 8.1.3

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Could it be because the SIM card got damaged while I cut it to fit the IPhone?
Very likely. Hard to believe the carrier in Mexico doesn't have a micro-SIM card available.
Or somehow the Chinese carrier found out and locked it?
No, which is not possible.
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