Test List for New iMac ? - newbie :)

Hi there, I'm posting my question in advance as my iMac i7 has still not arrived.
When it does get here, it will be my very first Apple Computer.
What tests do I need to run to check it for Flickering, or any other problem that folks seem to be having.
Is there a thread that clearly sets out how to test for the Flickering or check for the yellow screen that has these things in one thread ??
Also first up out of the box, should the first thing I be doing be Updating any Software/Hardware?
I have purchased separately Final Cut Express 4, and Photoshop Elements 8 for Mac, I'm hoping not to have any problems installing either of these two programs as they are the one's I intend to use the most.
I can't wait to see what my Infrared Photos look like on a 27inch iMac whoohooo!!
Thanks in advance ....
.

Welcome to Apple Discussions. There are no formal tests for flickering and the reports of yellow screens. Remember this is a help forum and is not representative of the millions of machines sold so even though it may seem like a lot of machines have been affected they are only a very small representation of the total amount of machines sold. That being said if your machine does suffer from one of these items it will be apparent.
When you first turn on your machine it will walk you through the set up process, it is very intuitive. One of the steps is the machine will automatically check for ad install any updates it needs, simply follow the onscreen instructions and it will be fine.
As for installing your software again simply follow the instructions the manufacturer's provide and that too should go very smoothly.
Most of the problems you read about are usually created somewhere between the desk and the machine in other words the users themselves. So as long as you just enjoy the machine and use it the way it was intended to be used your machine should perform well for years.
If you haven't already I would recommend studying Mac 101 and if you are switching from a Windows PC you should study Switch 101.
Regards,
Roger

Similar Messages

How much RAM should I install for new iMAC ?

Hi,
How much RAM should I install for new iMAC* running Logic Studio? It comes with 4 GB - is that enough? (can you run in 64 bit mode..)
*(The 21.5" 3.06GHz Intel Core 2 Duo)
Also, I was planning to get the stock 1 TB Hard Drive & save projects to an external drive.
Does that sound reasonable?
Any other recommendations?
Thanks,
Wm Heart

Unless you plan on running huge projects with enormous sampled instruments, 4 GB will do (very) fine. And your disk plan is sound. Choose an external Firewire drive, rather than USB. FW is easier on the CPU and can handle more tracks than USB.
What you should get, instead of more memory, is a (24 bit) external audio interface, if you want to do serious recording and playback.
What type of audio interface you'ld need, depends on what you want to do with it and of course your budget. From decent to brilliant costs from roughly 100 to several 1,000's of europounddollars. Avoid the 16 bit ones, they're worse than the inbuilt audio chip of your iMac. You can recognize 16 bit Audio Interfaces (in webshops) by their prize (often under 100€£$) and the lack of mention of their bitrate.
HTH
Regards, Erik.

Suggest test for new iMac

I've been using iPhone and iPad for some years now and have decided to change from PC
to Mac.
After reading in this forum I'm a little confused about what to expect from the new iMac. So I'd like to understand
if this machine will be buggy or worth the effort to install all SW as well as making all adaptions.
I wonder if anyone kindly could advice me what parts of hardware (possibly also SW) to give a check and how to test them.
While asking, what is the best set up for best performance according to you?
I've ordered an iMac, with the 27 inch screen, 3.2 GHz quad core, 8 GB DDR, 1 TB fusion drive, GeForce GTX 680MX with 2 GB and Time capsule plus an USB superdrive.

No checks are necessary however if you feel you must then run Apple Hardware Test in Extended Mode and that should be about all that's needed. However to be totally honest IMHO that is a complete waste of time. What I'd recommend you do is get your PC ready to migrate your data, when you first turn on the new iMac it will start a process called Setup Assistant, part of that is asking if you migrating from another Mac or PC. Pondini does an excellent job explaining SA and how to migrate successfully in Lion or Mountain Lion Setup Assistant tips
Also as a new person to OS X I would strongly recommend bookmarking and using Mac 101 .

Choice of RAM - Kingston, Crucial, etc - Who's buying what for new iMac?

There are SOOOO many types of RAM to order - what success and failure have people had with these different types. I've only ordered RAM one time, 2 years ago and it was Crucial - worked very well.
For my new iMac, however, Crucial is sold out of 2GB modules and they don't list an 'in-stock' date.
So far pricing looks like this for 4GB (2GB x 2)
Crucial - $279.98
OWC - $229.99
Kingston (via Buy.com) - $281.98
There are others... like Patriot, PNY, Micron, etc... but I've never heard of most of them. What is everyone planning on using, or currently using and any suggestions??

Hi Jeremy --
This is what I got from the Techworks web page:
Lifetime Warranty
Manufactured with only premier components and materials
100% tested to guarantee compatibility with Apple systems
Designed to surpass all Apple Specifications
ISO 9001, ISO 14001 and RoHS Compliant
Compatibility Guaranteed
http://www.buffalotech.com/products/memory/techworks/
http://www.buffalotech.com/products/memory/
It's marketed as Apple-specific, lifetime warranty, and at OWC the price compares favorably to Crucial and others.
Edit: note that the new iMacs use the same type of RAM as the MacBookPro Core2Duo. (SO-DIMMs) Yes, these iMacs are basically laptop internals stuck in a desktop Mac. So any of these will work:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/MacBook/Pro/Core2/
Hope that helps.
Message was edited by: Eridium

Windows 7 or 8.1 for new iMac 27 in?

Just got a new iMac 27 inch about a week ago. I am new to Mac and still need to have access to Windows for some games and also want to use Office 2013 full MS version. I have purchased Parallels 9 and am currently testing with Windows 8.1 Preview version.
Now ready to purchase a full sytem builder Windows version to install and wondering which may be best, Windows 7 or newer Windows 8.1? Are there that many improvements or new features in 8.1 that i should go with the newest version? Has anyone else recently installed one of these with Parallels?
Thanks!

Just get Office for Mac instead of the Windows version, it doesn't make any sense at all to use the WIndows version. As for your games it doesn't matter what you get, Windoze is Windoze, just be prepared to keep it save by running anitvirus softare and any other tools you need to keep it running OK. Don't worry about the OS X side though, even if the WIndows side becomes diseased it will not affect OS X.

Removing Office Test Drive from new iMac

I purchased Office 2004 with my new iMac. The installation instructions inform me to remove "...any Preview or Test Drive versions....". My attempts to uninstall the Test Drive have failed. The "boxes" I am instructed to check are not there. I have searched for hours on this and the MicroSoft site to find an answer to this dilemma. Did I miss the solution in my search?

Just drag the "Office 2004 for Mac Test Drive" folder
to the trash - empty it - and install the new
software.
Just to add a bit here: this should work if you've never actually run the Test Drive version. Until you've actually run the Test Drive, nothing has been installed for the uninstaller to find.
Once you've run the Test Drive version at least once, it'll install all of its libraries and fonts and stuff all over the hard drive, just like any other program. Then you'll need the uninstaller.
This page has more information that might be helpful.
charlie

¿I need antivirus for new iMac (2012)?

It's my first Mac. I want to say if antivirus is necessary in the 2012 new iMac (21'5 ").
If I need one, tell me about the best antivirus and where I download it, please.
Thanx!

This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an attacker who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files. The recognition database is automatically updated once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders. In most cases, there’s no benefit from any other automated protection against malware. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Note, however, that there are some caveats concerning Gatekeeper:
It can be disabled or overridden by the user.
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article. That being said, the best defense against malware is your own intelligence. All known malware on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. If you're smarter than the malware attacker thinks you are, you won't be duped. That means, primarily, that you never install software from an untrustworthy source. How do you know a source is untrustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn users who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
“Cracked” copies of commercial software downloaded from a bittorrent are likely to be infected.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. No intermediary is acceptable.
Java on the network (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related) is a weak point in the security of any operating system. If a Java web plugin is not installed, don't install it unless you really need it. If it is installed, you should disable it (not JavaScript) in your web browsers. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This setting is mandatory in OS X 10.5.8 or earlier, because Java in those obsolete versions has known security flaws that make it unsafe to use on the Internet. The flaws will never be fixed. Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java can never be fully trusted, even if no vulnerabilities are publicly known at the moment.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can reasonably be.
Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability and poor performance.
By modifying the system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. Using it to delete or move email messages can corrupt the Mail database. Such messages must be deleted from within the Mail application. ClamXav is not needed for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. If you don't need to do that, avoid it. Windows malware can't harm you directly. Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, like a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use.

Matching Displays For New iMacs

Just wondering if Apple is considering making a MATCHING display for the new iMac line? It's great to be able to attach a second display to an iMac, but it would be even more kicking if it matched the look of the iMac with aluminum and glass. Any rumblings from Apple about this. I'm ready to buy!

Hi Priti,
I tried restricting records using Named Searhes and Masks but it includes all the records with Match step property Records Vs All. You have to perform some maunal step either by selecting records using some search criteria or you can use Named Searches i.e.
1. Create one field say New of type boolean and by default set it to NO.
2. Create one named search for this field value to YES.
3. Create one assignment which sets the value for this field to YES and add this assignment in the workflow as the first step.
4. When ever you import records, assignment will set New=YES for all the records imported. Now, when you add more records, search the previous records using Restore Named Search function which will give the list of records imported now. You can perform Matching and Merging operation.
5. Add one more assignment to the workflow as the last step which should set New=NO so that records should not appear next time for Matching
Regards,
Jitesh Talreja

Missing iPhoto for new iMac

Hi,
Just got new iMac. Great! Using new software that came with it. No iPhoto on my hard drive. Missing. What am I supposed to have? And since I don't have it, how can I get it? I don't see any download for iPhoto. What version should I have with my new iMac? Thanks.
Ed

Thanks for your prompt answer. I have looked through the applications folder and the rest of the hard drive. I have done a search with spotlight but there is no iPhoto. I have contacted the dealer and will be contacted the individual there that helped set up the transfer of data and applications from my failed iMac G5.
My guess is that they somehow deleted iPhoto in this process
In the booklet that is titled "Everything Mac" it shows iPhoto under iLife.
That is correct
reinstall iPhoto - go to your receipts folder ("Your hard drive" ==> library ==> receipts) and remove any iPhoto receipts and reinstall from the restore disks that came with your computer - do a custom install of bundled software only
For more information click here for the MacWorld article on reinstalling OS X applications.
I have used the Software update to download and install all updates that were listed. Nothing there to update iPhoto.
If there is no iPhoto you can not update iPhoto - iPhoto (and iLife) are not available from downloads - they must be installed from the original disks as noted above and in my first answer

Purchase Advice for an iMac newbie

I have used a pc for years. I mostly surf the web and MSOffice programs, mostly Word and PowerPoint. I purchased an iPad and iPhone and now I want an iMac. I am thinking my best bet is to buy a refurbished 21.5 for $1019. I would like to hear the thoughts of the members on this forum. Is there a cheaper route that would give me a good apple computer? I am concerned about saving money in the short run, but costing in the long run. Most of the used iMacs are not cheap and there is little or no warranty. Am I missing something?
Thanks for your thoughts.

Nope you're right on target, for your needs any iMac would more than do the job. I would also recommend getting a refurbished machine. If you do it comes with the same warranty as a new one and you can also buy Apple Care to extend the warranty. When you buy used you assume risks, for someone not familiar with Macs unless you are fortunate and get a caring seller it's very easy to be taken. I would recommend spending some time going over the following sites, they will prepare you for your switch and also serve as good reference for a Mac newbie.
http://www.apple.com/support/switch101/
http://www.apple.com/support/mac101/
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2477
Roger

Best Practices for new iMac

I posted a few days ago re failing HDD on mid-2007 iMac. Long story short, took it into Apple store, Genius worked on it for 45 mins before decreeing it in need of new HDD. After considering the expenses of adding memory, new drive, hardware and installation costs, I got a brand new iMac entry level (21.5" screen,
2.7 GHz Intel Core i5, 8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 memory, 1TB HDD running Mavericks). Also got a Superdrive. I am not needing to migrate anything from the old iMac.
I was surprised that a physical disc for the OS was not included. So I am looking for any Best Practices for setting up this iMac, specifically in the area of backup and recovery. Do I need to make a boot DVD? Would that be in addition to making a Time Machine full backup (using external G-drive)? I have searched this community and the Help topics on Apple Support and have not found any "checklist" of recommended actions. I realize the value of everyone's time, so any feedback is very appreciated.

OS X has not been officially issued on physical media since OS X 10.6 (arguably 10.7 was issued on some USB drives, but this was a non-standard approach for purchasing and installing it).
To reinstall the OS, your system comes with a recovery partition that can be booted to by holding the Command-R keys immediately after hearing the boot chimes sound. This partition boots to the OS X tools window, where you can select options to restore from backup or reinstall the OS. If you choose the option to reinstall, then the OS installation files will be downloaded from Apple's servers.
If for some reason your entire hard drive is damaged and even the recovery partition is not accessible, then your system supports the ability to use Internet Recovery, which is the same thing except instead of accessing the recovery boot drive from your hard drive, the system will download it as a disk image (again from Apple's servers) and then boot from that image.
Both of these options will require you have broadband internet access, as you will ultimately need to download several gigabytes of installation data to proceed with the reinstallation.
There are some options available for creating your own boot and installation DVD or external hard drive, but for most intents and purposes this is not necessary.
The only "checklist" option I would recommend for anyone with a new Mac system, is to get a 1TB external drive (or a drive that is at least as big as your internal boot drive) and set it up as a Time Machine backup. This will ensure you have a fully restorable backup of your entire system, which you can access via the recovery partition for restoring if needed, or for migrating data to a fresh OS installation.

Use older 2008 iMac as second monitor for new iMac

Hi all,
I have one of these older machines that has no real purpose
http://support.apple.com/kb/sp485
but would serve me very well as a second monitor for my brand spanking new iMac.
The specs seem to note that there is a video output - but I'm not seeing anything about video IN.
Is it possible to use this older iMac as a monitor?

that looks cool, and there is a free trial.
I am not keen on using the WiFi to do this - my old iMac has firewire but the new one doesn't.
Besides using the ludicrously expensive Thunderbolt <-> Firewire 800 convertor
http://store.apple.com/uk/product/MD464ZM/A/thunderbolt-to-firewire-adapter
is there any other way to create a wired connection between these devices? I'm not sure if there is such a thing as a USB <-> USB network connection.

Cable to connect old iMac as second screen for new iMac

Just bought the new iMac 27" with thunderbolt port. I understand I can hook up my old iMac (24" Mid 2007) and use it as second monitor. My challenge is confirming that, and then figuring out which cable to use.
The manual says the old iMac has a "Mini-DVI video out port", making it sound like it won't accept input. True?
If it will indeed accept input, what cable do I use to connect the two Macs?
If indeed I can't use the second iMac, I'll purchase a separate monitor. What should I look for in monitors that will easily attach to the thunderbolt-only new iMac? I won't be buying the Apple monitor.
Thanks for any help in advance.
Bob

Most new monitors will support standard DVI and VGA connections. Some may support Mini-DVI ports. That's about all I can tell you.
As for other factors I would look at monitor reviews - as many as you can - for the size and resolutions in which you are interested. There are a lot of products out there. You might try first doing a Google search to learn more about the meanings of the various specs the manufacturers provide so you might wade through the smoke and mirrors in search of meaningful information.

Power converter required for new iMac?

I have taken my new iMac to Germany. The provided power cord does not have a converter like the Mac laptops have. Do I need to purchase a power converter that will step down the voltage when plugging into the outlets in Germany, or is there a control on the computer to adjust for the increased voltage?

To add additional clarification, I understand that I will need a plug adapter and have used one before without issue for my macbook laptop as the provided cord allows for switching the plug end to match the european outlets. The converter box on the cord (the white box) then steps down the voltage so the laptop can run safely being powered by the 220v outlet. The new desktop iMac, as I mention above, has a cord without the converter box. I am concerned that if i just use a plug converter, the computer will not be able to handle the additional voltage.

Suggestions for new iMac, hard drive and Thunderbolt vs FW800 vs USB3?

Ordering a new iMac 27" and leaning toward fusion drive, and wondering if anyone has any suggestion or experiance with this drive? Any suggestions for drives would be welcome.
I am going to have to decide what to do as far as storage and I assume USB3 will be the best choice - been using FW800 and lots of new things coming.
Thanks for any input and suggestions.
Don

anybody have any comments on the use of Thunderbolt vs USB3? I am using FW800 not and will be changing my 2 external drives. I have to keep FW800 on them so I am able to daisey-chain them. My use is normal and wondering if I should stay with USB3 & FW800 for external or make the TM drive a Thunderbolt. Those seem to be priced higher just wanted some suggestions, recommendations.
Thanks,
Don

Test List for New iMac ? - newbie :)

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