Test of forum edit problem by a Moderator

Adding some test text in a quetion.
Possibly forum quotes feature has damaged editing feature.
''edited by the-edmeister - 01-02-2015 17:47 CST''
blah blah blah
Also are we shooting ourselves in the foot, giving a warning and effectively blocking our own troubleshooter app.
P.S.
And is there a bug filed for warnings about outdated Flash on Linux. I have not checked

''guigs2 [[#answer-673539|said]]''
<blockquote>
I created this about the gallery showing up for the edit question page: *[https://bugzilla.mozilla.org/show_bug.cgi?id=1117945]
As a moderator can you click on the image attached and see an "x"?
</blockquote>
That's now closed as a duplicate of [https://bugzilla.mozilla.org/show_bug.cgi?id=1117894 bug 1117894] "Unrelated screenshots attached when editing a question"
Yes I do see a bar with a cross. Presumably that allows deletion of the image. I have not got a post to hand with someone else's image attached but they have a cross for the OP and Mods.
Being able to browse all attached images may; very occasionally; be useful, if for instance there is a spam attack, but then we would need to know also which post the image was attached to.
Speaking of spam, maybe an Admin needs to look at the Mods forum and address the comments in https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/forums/forum-moderators/710686?last=63439#post-63439 [done]

Similar Messages

Premiere Pro 7.1 serious Multicam Editing problems

Hello, I am posting here because the bug report I filed one week ago to Adobe didn't give a result -no response at all from the bug department.
I have two serious Multicam Editing Problems.
PC Configuration: Core i7950, Asus P6TD Deluxe, 12GB DDR3 1600MHZ, Quadro K4000, SSD for the system, Seagate Constellation 7200rpm for video editing.
1. When multicam mode is on at the program monitor, I press play and the program doesn't respond at all. The timeline plays till the end and the program just doesn't let you do anything but wait until playback of the whole timeline is over. Then the program works again (no "not responding" message in Windows).
2. Sometimes the waveform doesn't even appear at the multicam audio clip. I read in other forums that this problem is found specifically at Premiere Pro version 7.1 (October release).
I would be grateful with your help.
Thank you,
Stavros Symeonidis

The media is always a combination of HD .MOV (dSLR footage and .MTS (from my Sony Vg-30). However, I also tested it with .mpeg files created by "match sequence settings". GPU acceleration is always on, as I use nVidia Quadro K4000 with the latest drivers (331.82).
I always create the multicam sequences manually and the problem occurs with any amount of camera angles.
The problem was not solved by reinstaling Windows (7 and 8). In general, I have no other issue with my PC system, except from this specific one.
It doesn't appear always, however it will definitely happen if you press twice or three times the letter L, to fast forward the preview of your Multicam Sequence.
I remind you that this only happens when multicam monitor is toggled at the program monitor.
Did all these help at all to even reproduce this situation?
Thank you,
Stavros Symeonidis

Launch and edit problem from Dreamweaver to Fireworks

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader
does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--B_3266405159_588474
Content-type: text/plain;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: 8bit
Hi
Not sure if this is a Fireworks or Dreamweaver problem but
here goes.
I¹ve created a graphic in Fireworks CS3 on the Mac and
Exported the HTML and
related images. I open the HTML file in Dreamweaver CS3, all
fine so far.
Then I highlight the table and click the Edit in
Fireworks¹ button and it
throws up a warning dialogue saying Cannot launch and
edit. The Fireworks
table could not be found in the HTML. Please export from
Fireworks and
re-import the HTML into Dreamweaver.¹
What?!!
I¹ve only just exported it from Fireworks! It¹s
even got the Fireworks table
code in the Code section, so what¹s going here?
Has anyone else had this?
Gaz
--B_3266405159_588474
Content-type: text/html;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Launch and edit problem from Dreamweaver to
Fireworks</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
Hi<BR=
>
Not sure if this is a Fireworks or Dreamweaver problem but
here goes. 
I’ve created a graphic in Fireworks CS3 on the Mac
and Exported the H=
TML and related images. I open the HTML file in Dreamweaver
CS3, all fine so=
far. Then I highlight the table and click the
‘Edit in Fireworks&#821=
7; button and it throws up a warning dialogue saying
‘Cannot launch an=
d edit. The Fireworks table could not be found in the HTML.
Please export fr=
om Fireworks and re-import the HTML into
Dreamweaver.’ 
What?!! 
I’ve only just exported it from Fireworks!
It’s even got the Fi=
reworks table code in the Code section, so what’s
going here? 
 
Has anyone else had this? 
 
Gaz
</BODY>
</HTML>
--B_3266405159_588474--

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader
does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--B_3266407908_747577
Content-type: text/plain;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: 8bit
When you export the sliced graphics from Fireworks it places
them into a
table. In my instance the code says...

So it recognises Fireworks was the the graphics app and jumps
back to it
when you want to edit the image. Fireworks then displays (or
should) a
Done¹ button over the window. You do your alts and
press Done to update the
HTML and graphics back in Dreamweaver automatically.
That¹s the only table I was referring to Murray.
On 4/7/07 3:02 pm, in article
[email protected], "Murray
*ACE*" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Why would you be wanting to edit the table in a graphics
editor, instead of
> an HTML editor?
--B_3266407908_747577
Content-type: text/html;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: Launch and edit problem from Dreamweaver to
Fireworks</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
When =
you export the sliced graphics from Fireworks it places them
into a table. I=
n my instance the code says... 
 
 
 
So it recognises Fireworks was the the graphics app and jumps
back to it wh=
en you want to edit the image. Fireworks then displays (or
should) a ‘=
Done’ button over the window. You do your alts and
press Done to updat=
e the HTML and graphics back in Dreamweaver
automatically. 
That’s the only table I was referring to
Murray. 
 
On 4/7/07 3:02 pm, in article
[email protected], "Murr=
ay *ACE*"
<[email protected]> wrote: 
 
> Why would you be
wanting to edit the table in a =
graphics editor, instead of 
> an HTML editor? 

</BODY>
</HTML>
--B_3266407908_747577--

HT4356 Can't find the wireless HP 3050 printer via phone or I pad. Printed test page found no problems and stated setup was successful. Any idea what the problem is? Thanks. is

Can't find the wireless signal from my newly installed HP 3050 printer via I phon or I pad. Printer test page found no problems and states successful setup. Any ideal on the cause of the problem? Thanks.

Hello Sashalechat,
Welcome to the HP Forums.
I see that you are having an issue when attempting to connect to a wireless network.
Have you changed the router for a new one?
Make sure that you have the printer power cable connected directly to a wall outlet and not a power bar/strip. Here is a document that uses a LaserJet printer as an example but it is meant for HP products in general. Please click on the following link that explains the Issues when Connected to an Uninterruptible Power Supply/Power Strip/Surge Protector.
Make sure that you are with in the 4'-20' range.
You can try the HP Print and Scan Doctor as well. Let me know if you see any error codes or messages.
Write me back when you have time.
Cheers,
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say “Thanks” for helping!
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
W a t e r b o y 71
I work on behalf of HP

Test My Forums Updates

Test My Forums Updates..
Vincenzo Di Russo
Microsoft® MVP Windows Internet Explorer, Windows & Security Expert - since 2003.
Moderator in the Microsoft Community and TechNet Forums
My MVP Profile

Hello,
There is an issue with the forums right now, where they are not refreshing, if that's what you are testing.
Karl
When you see answers and helpful posts, please click Vote As Helpful, Propose As Answer, and/or Mark As Answer.
My Blog: Unlock PowerShell
My Book:
Windows PowerShell 2.0 Bible
My E-mail: -join ('6F6C646B61726C406F75746C6F6F6B2E636F6D'-split'(?<=\G.{2})'|%{if($_){[char][int]"0x$_"}})

Has anyone in this Forum had problems with installing and running Adobe apps on the new MacPro?

Has anyone in this Forum had problems with installing and running Adobe apps on the new MacPro?
I have been trying to install Photoshop CS6 & CC and Acrobat Pro XI on my Mac Pro (late 2013). I keep getting a 'configuration' error message and wondered if the problem was wide spread.
TIA,
Jerry

Thanks, Martin.
Good to hear someone has had success. The lack of it here is frustrating and depressing.
Thanks again,
Jerry

HT4235 iPod nano 6th generation, syncing with audiobooks does not work now, had been working. Sync test says: No iPod touch, iPhone, or iPad found. Connectivity test OK, no physical problems, iTunes shows the iPod. Any clues what to do?

iPod nano 6th generation, syncing with audiobooks does not work now, had been working. Sync test says: No iPod touch, iPhone, or iPad found. Connectivity test OK, no physical problems, iTunes shows the iPod. Any clues what to do?

Hmm.. Thank you for the response.
Have you tried using the iPod with another user account or computer, to help narrow down whether the problem lies with the computer, account, or the iPod itself?
Maybe try reformatting it, using the tools provided by Windows. Instructions on how to reformat your iPod can be found in this article.
http://www.methodshop.com/gadgets/ipodsupport/erase/index.shtml
B-rock

Testing BC i ADF - problem

Hi.
I'm trying to use example from "Oracle JDev 10g Handbook".
I'm using OracleXE.
I have testing schema (named "GM"). That schema contains 3 tables.
I have created Connection - connection is named "XE_GM" and it is working fine (connectiong, showing object).
I was create new project (Swing/ADF), create model "Businenss Components from Tables". Next i try to "Test" module created by that model.
On "Test" i was select that same connection "XE_GM".
I got window with error
"(oracle.jbo.common.ampool.ApplicationPoolException) JBO-30003: The application pool (.10B6B7E49B2) failed to checkout an application module due to the following exception:
----- LEVEL 1: DETAIL 0 -----
(oracle.jbo.JboException) JBO-29000: Unexpected exception caught: oracle.jbo.JboException, msg=JBO-29000: Unexpected exception caught: oracle.jbo.JboException, msg=JBO-29000: Unexpected exception caught: oracle.jbo.DMLException, msg=JBO-26061: Error while opening JDBC connection.
----- LEVEL 2: DETAIL 0 -----
(oracle.jbo.JboException) JBO-29000: Unexpected exception caught: oracle.jbo.JboException, msg=JBO-29000: Unexpected exception caught: oracle.jbo.DMLException, msg=JBO-26061: Error while opening JDBC connection.
----- LEVEL 3: DETAIL 0 -----
(oracle.jbo.JboException) JBO-29000: Unexpected exception caught: oracle.jbo.DMLException, msg=JBO-26061: Error while opening JDBC connection.
----- LEVEL 4: DETAIL 0 -----
(oracle.jbo.DMLException) JBO-26061: Error while opening JDBC connection.
----- LEVEL 5: DETAIL 0 -----
(java.sql.SQLException) Io exception: The Network Adapter could not establish the connection"
Anybody have some suggestions ?
Should i change DB (not testing on XE) ?

Problem solved !
Local firewall software was blocking background process TCP connection :)

Font / text edit problem in photoshop CS6

Hi there,
I have a strange text edit problem in Photoshop CS6 running on Mavericks.
Every time I use the text-tool in PS, write a sentence, mark it and change something like color, font size etc., the marked text vanishes.
I have to "undo" the last step and the changed text appears again.
Every time!
I have a clean installed CS6 with no plugins and no other than system fonts installed.
Everything on a new Mac Pro with OS X 10.9.5
Any clues? Thanks.

Do you have the latest updates for photoshop cs6?
You can use Help>Updates from within photoshop cs6 to check if there are any available.
Also, if you go to Help>System Info from within photoshop cs6, you can see the Photoshop Version in the top line.
You should be on version 13.0.6
See if turning off Dictation solves the issue.
Go to System Preferences ---> Dictation and Speech -----> select OFF radio button .

HT201257 I just bought an imac in september 2012. And i just find out that my microphone is not working. So i did an apple hardware test and with no problems found? I have sound but no one can hear me, not even the computer. Should i bring it back to

I just bought an imac in september 2012. And i just find out that my microphone is not working. So i did an apple hardware test and with no problems found? I have sound but no one can hear me, not even the computer. Should i bring it back to the store

Before you go through that trouble open About this Mac > More Info... > System Report > Audio and see if the system actually knows it has a microphone. Then you can look into Applications > Utilities > Audio MIDI Setup and see if the microphone is there, select it and make sure the sliders are set to full. Then in System Preferences look for Sound > Input and make sure it shows up there and the sliders are at least half way up. If none of that works do a
SMC RESET
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Shut down the computer.
Unplug the computer's power cord and ALL peripherals.
Wait 15 seconds.
Attach the computers power cable.
Wait another 5 seconds and press the power button to turn on the computer.
It is the 5 second timing that initiates the reset.
then go through the process of looking for the microphone again as the reset may reenable the mic.

FC studio2 editing problems with western digital my book home for mac

hi--bought a 1TB WD my book home for mac coupla years ago because it seemed like a good deal for so much space, and provided and eSATA hookup, too. Worked ok for a while. Now, with a growing Motion project that I bring into FC for overall color/levels/export adjustments, I'm getting a long-term beachball every time I try to do anything with it. Just did a complete reinstall of FC studio (after running Techtool pro 5 rebuild and optimizing files and volume), trashed the project and recreated it incase the file itself was corrupted, but the beachball keeps showing up once i try to get past a particular edit and play the file through -- something I haven't had problems with before. Have read this harddrive is a real POS/PIA for many because of its internal "sleep" setting and other weaknesses, and am thinking of cracking the drive out of its case and putting it into a plain eSATA/FireWire enclosure. Anybody else tried this or heard of it working? Money's a big issue right now (too many slow/no pay clients), so can't just run out and get a new drive and transfer w/out trying cheaper route first. Would appreciate feedback, cuz this is makin' me lose what little hair i got left!
Message was edited by: jayvee56
Message was edited by: jayvee56

My question says: "Final Cut Studio 2 editing problems"; I formatted the drive for the mac when i bought it: journaled HFS+, Apple Partition Map; 2 partitions (and connected via eSATA); which has been working fine as is up till now. The sequence and settings are those in which I've worked on many projects for years with no problems up until now. I am also completely up-to-date with all my app and system updates. I did begin to wonder after posting if the reinstall might be the source of my problems, but it was the interminable beachball waits that prompted the reinstall in the first place.

File not found error on testing server [subject edited by moderator]

The requested URL /www/first.php was not found on this server. Apache/2.4.9 (Win64) PHP/5.5.12 Server at localhost Port 80
Using adobe dreamweaver with wamp server and getting this message while checking any file.Saved all file in ( c:wamp/www/ ) with php extention

Have you checked to see if first.php file is in the www folder in WAMP?
Have you aso tried:
http://localhost/first.php
or
Create a folder in the 'www' folder named 'test' and then put the 'first.php' file in the 'test' folder:
http://localhost/test/first.php
Do any of those combinations work?

Widget browser problems {subject edited and truncated by moderator}

I'm having problem with adobe widget browser. When I try to log in it freezes. I access dreamweaver through the adobe creative cloud. I have uninstall/reinstalled this program to fix this issue but it didn't work. Any advice?

There have been a ton of questions about this lately.
As far as I've heard (I never used it), the Widget Browser has been disabled.
The replacement is the Adobe Add-Ons section under Window > Browse Add Ons in DWCC 2014

Forum editing and searching problems

How long time do I have for editing my topic ?
How can I search inside my discussion topics ?

You have 15 mins to make changes to a post you've made.
To search your posts enter a search term in the search box when that returns the display will have two additional boxes, one to limit the each to a particular comunity and another to limit the search to a partiular user. Enter your name in this box and re-search.
BTW questions concerning the list itself are best asked in the Using Apple Support Communities section
regards

This is a test of the Edit button

I am using Harm's original guide posts to see what's happening with the edit button
How do you set up your editing machine in terms of disks for maximum performance and reliability? (SSD's are left out here.)
This is a question that often arises and all too often one sees that initial settings are really suboptimal. These rules are intended to help you decide how to setup your disks to get the best response times. Of course the only disks in an editing machine must be 7200 RPM types or faster. No GREEN disks at all.
Rule 1: NEVER partition a disk. You may ask why? First of all, it does not increase disk space, it just allocates the space differently. However, the major drawback is that for a partitioned disk the OS must first access a partition table at the beginning of the disk for all accesses to the disk, thus requiring the heads to move to the beginning of the disk, then when it has gotten the partition info move to the designated area on the disk and perform the requested action. This means much more wear-and-tear on the mechanics of the disk, slower speeds and more overhead for the OS, all reducing efficiency.
Rule 2: Avoid using USB drives, since they are the slowest on the market. Do not be tricked by the alleged bandwidth of USB 2.0 advertisements, because is just is not true and remember that the alleged bandwidth is shared by all USB devices, so if you have a USB mouse, keyboard, printer, card reader or whatever, they all share the bandwidth. Stick to SCSI or SATA disks or e-SATA. If needed, you can use Firewire-800 or even Firewire-400 disks, but they are really more suited for backups than for editing.
Rule 3: Use at least 3 different physical disks on an editing machine, one for OS/programs, one for media and one for pagefile/scratch/renders. Even on a notebook with one internal drive it is easy to accomplish this by using a dual e-SATA to Express card connector. That gives you an additional two e-SATA connections for external disks.
Rule 4: Spread disk access across as many disks as you have. If you have OS & programs on disk C:, set your pagefile on another disk. Also set your pagefile to a fixed size, preferably somewhere around 1.5 times your physical memory.
Rule 5: Turn off index search and compression. Both will cause severe performance hits if you leave them on.
Rule 6: If the fill rate on any of your SATA disks goes over 60-70% it is time to get a larger or an additional disk.
Rule 7: Perform regular defrags on all of your disks. For instance, you can schedule this daily during your lunch break.
Rule 8: Keep your disks cool by using adequate airflow by means of additional fans if needed. You can use SMART to monitor disk temperatures, which should be under 35 degrees C at all times and normally hover around 20-24 C, at least in a properly cooled system.
Rule 9: If people want raid, the cheapest way is to use the on-board IHCR or Marvell chip, but it places a relatively high burden on the CPU. The best way is a hardware controller card, preferably based on the IOP348 chip. Areca ARC and ADAPTEC come to mind. 3Ware uses it's own chipset and though not bad, they are not in the same league as the other two. Promise and the like in the budget range are no good and a complete waste of money. Expect to spend around $ 800 plus for a good controller with 12 connectors internally and 4 e-SATA connectors. Important to consider in a purchasing decision is whether the on-board cache memory can be expanded from the regular 256/512 MB to 2 or even 4 GB. Be aware that 2 GB cache can be relatively cheap, but the 4 GB version extremely costly ($ 30 versus $ 300). For safety reasons it is advisable to include a battery backup module (BBM).
Rule 10: If you can easily replace the data in case of disk failure (like rendered files), go ahead and use raid0, but if you want any protection against data loss, use raid 3/5/6/10/30/50. For further protection you can use hot spares, diminishing downtime and performance degradation.
In general when you get a new disk, pay close attention to any rattling noise, do perform regular disk checks, and in case of doubt about reliability, exchange the disk under guarantee. Often a new disk will fail in the first three months. If they survive that period, most of the disks will survive for the next couple of years. If you use a lot of internal disks like I do (17), set staggered spin-up to around 1 second to lessen the burden on the PSU and improve stability.
Hope this helps to answer some basic questions. If not, let me know. Further enhancements and suggestions are welcome
==============================================================================
For AMD setups, disregard the mentions of sockets and the like but the general recommendations still hold.
When you need a new PC for editing purposes, you basically have three choices:
1. Buy an off the shelf system from companies like HP or Dell.
2. Buy a custom built PC from a specialist company, like http://www.guygraphics.com/
3. Build it yourself.
Solution 1 can offer good prices if you stick to their standard configurations and it is easy. But remember that these companies make their profit not on the base system, but on all the options they offer. If you follow their recommendations and upgrade memory, hard disks, or choose a better video card or a faster processor, they steal you blind.
I have nothing against HP or Dell, I have bought systems from them, but usually that was because of a great offer with all the features I needed at the time and applied to notebooks, desktops and servers.
Solution 2 is usually costly, but you get what you pay for. You get the expertise of the seller/builder in selecting the right components, he builds it, installs the software and tests it before delivery. The downside is that often these specialists have their own favorite hardware, like Matrox or Canopus and try to get that into the deal, which increases the price.
Solution 3 is usually the most cost effective and the most flexible, but the largest drawback is that you need to choose all the right components, to be aware of potential incompatibilities and build it yourself. Many see that as a major stumbling block, but really it is not difficult. Another drawback is support. You have to do it yourself.
The first steps to take are twofold:
1. What material do you want to edit and how do you want to deliver the results?
To put it bluntly, if you want to edit material, recorded with a mobile phone, a digital still camera, recorded off the internet from YouTube or similar, recorded from TV, grabbed from the screen, encoded with any unsuitable codec like DivX, XVid, or the like, or ripped from DVD, and that is your major purpose, no need to read this further, just use a consumer application like Windows Movie Maker or Magix for your editing.
This guide is for people who use a VIDEO camera and want to edit that.
So for people with video cameras, what is the main format you use? DV, HDV, DVCPROHD, AVCHD, XDCAMHD, other?
Do you deliver for the web, on BR or DVD or all of those?
2. What is your budget?
Once you have answered these two basic questions for yourself can you start the selection process.
It will require you to read quite a lot about PC's. Good general sources of information are:
http://www.tomshardware.com and http://anandtech.com
As a general rule of thumb you can say that the minimum requirements in terms of CPU, despite what Adobe mentions as minimum requirements, are:
1. For DV: Core 2 Duo
2. For AVCHD: i7 with HT or dual Xeon's 55xx
3. For other HD formats: Core 2 Quad
It generally does not pay to get the fastest CPU, unless you have an unlimited budget. Their price/performance is usually not the best and you will find a step down gives you nearly the same performance at a much lower price. And there is always overclocking, but I'll come back to that later. To give an example, the Core 2 Extreme QX6850 is currently more than 4 times as expensive as the Core 2 Quad Q9550, but does not deliver any noteworthy performance improvement. And both are quad cores.
To help you narrow down your choices, it is worthwhile to have a look at these charts:
http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/desptop-cpu-charts-q3-2008/Cinema-4D-Release- 10,835.html
Likely a new version for Q1-2009 will come out shortly.
In deciding on your shortlist, keep in mind that for video editing FSB speed and cache size are very important. First look at FSB speed (the higher the better, so if you have the choice between 1066 or 1333 FSB, always choose the higher one if it fits your budget). Next narrow down your choices by selecting the CPU with the largest cache. 6 MB L3 cache is better than 3 MB.
Let's assume that after studying all these sites and reading a lot about CPU's, you have made a shortlist of possible candidates, that fit the minimum requirements indicated above, you have to identify what socket the CPU uses. Is it a 775 pin socket (Core2), a 1366 pin (i7 or Xeon 55xx) or a 771 Xeon 54xx or lower (old generation) socket. This will largely determine your choice of motherboard and memory type you need and as a consequence the case and cooling you need.
In general the chipset on a 775 mobo uses DDR2, dual channel memory, which is widely available and relatively cheap. On a 771 mobo the memory used is FBDIMM (fully buffered DDR2) with ECC (error correction) which is much harder to get and significantly more expensive. On a 1366 mobo the memory is triple channel DDR3 which is faster than DDR2 but also more expensive. For Xeon 55xx based boards memory used is FBDIMM's triple channel with ECC, which is hard to find and costly.
The main difference between DDR2 and DDR3 is that dual channel requires two populated memory banks for dual channel operation, whereas triple channel DDR3 requires three banks populated. That is the reason that mobo's with DDR2 usually come with 4 or 8 GB RAM and DDR3 mobo's with 6 or 12 GB RAM. DDR3 is faster (at the same specs) than DDR2. To complicate matters further, most 775 mobo's offer 4 memory slots, 1366 mobo's usually offer 6 memory slots and 1366 dual socket Xeon boards usually offer 12 memory slots.
I see you are losing interest, this is getting way too complicated. Well, I'm sorry but if you want to make an informed decision on what your next system should be, you need to understand these basics or buy a Dell or HP or even Alienware (a Dell subsidiary). And I continue to bore you with these technicalities in order to help you make a good purchasing decision.
When selecting a mobo for the CPU you have selected, read tests on TomsHardware or AnandTech to help you find the good performers that have the right set of features for your job. Good brands are ASUS, Abit, Gigabyte and MSI for single socket use, for dual socket the best one to check out is SuperMicro or possibly Tyan.
Pay attention to the features a board offers, like dual NIC's (network interface controller), dual firewire, number of SATA ports, chipset used for the SATA controller, IHCR and/or Marvell raid capability, on board sound, etcetera. Pay special attention to the board layout, where the PCI-e slots are located in relation to PCI slots. I have once built a machine where I knew I had to use a PCI firewire board and due to the location of the PCI-e slot and the size of the video card (dual slot size) the PCI slot was no longer accessible. It caused me quite some headaches to find a PCI-x firewire replacement board, because I had forgotten to have a close look at the mobo layout. Just a warning, so you don't fall into the same trap I did.
Ok, we have now decided on the CPU and the mobo. Let's have a look at memory.
General rule: Get as much as you can and don't spend it on higher clock capable versions! You will gain more from slower memory in large quantities, than from faster but less memory, even with 32 bit apps like CS4. One of the side effects of more memory is less use of a pagefile, which is far slower than RAM, so even if the application can not access more than 4 GB, your pagefile use will be much lower with more memory installed.
Memory is offered with various ratings. Often in marketing jargon these are dubbed as PC3-8500 or PC3-10600 or PC3-12800 up to 16000. This is all hype. The price tag increases significantly with higher numbers but the performance gain is negligent, in the order of 1 or 2 %. Your best bet is to get memory that is suitable for the FSB speed you have. If you have a FSB of 1333, use memory for 1333 FSB (10600), if you have a FSB of 1066, get 1066 capable memory (8500), it is a complete waste of money to get 1600 capable memory if your FSB does not support it. What is important however is to get the best timings you can find.
The lower the CAS latency, the better. Also look at tRAS (ROW-ACTIVE-TIME) results. These timing figures may give you better performance than spending money on higher clocked memory. On my system I have 6-6-6-18 timings for memory (even when overclocked by 35% and without increasing the voltage), which gives far better results than 9-9-9-27 timings. BTW, timings are usually measured in CAS, RAS-to-CAS, tRP and tRAS sequence. The lower these numbers, the better it is.
In general get at least 4 GB on a 775 or 6 GB on a 1366 mobo, but you may benefit from doubling these figures if you are multitasking, for instance having PR, AE and EN open for dynamic linking, or changing to PS for text or still manipulation.
Next: Storage. I point you to a previous guide I made which gives you the basics about disk setup:
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/427772
Next cases. I suggest to only look at big towers or server towers, depending on the mobo of your choice. For dual CPU sockets a server tower is almost always a must, decause of the use of e-ATX size mobo's and the requirement for specialized cooling, often using an air duct, which is only available in server cases. SuperMicro is a prime supplier and my personal favorite in terms of build quality, expansion capabilities and reliability. Be aware however that the power supply in those cases are pretty noisy. For single CPU solutions there are many choices, often based on looks. What is much more important however is the expansion room and the airflow in those cases. You don't want to pimp your editing machine with LED illuminated fans, transparent sides and the like. It needs to be functional. Antec, CoolerMaster, Lian Li and ThermalTake are common brands and worth having a look at. Looking at smaller cases with a sexy look will often lead to disappointment in the future, since they often lack the capability to add additional disk drives or burners internally or get so full with equipment, that cooling is going to be a real problem. Do take into consideration that you may need 1 or 2 5.25" slots for burners.
Warning: COOLING is essential for reliability and longevity of your system. We'll get to that in a minute.
If you work long form projects, have a multitude of projects or other situations that may require a large number of disks in use or for backup, it is worth to have a look at cases that offer SAS backplanes and (hot-)swappable disk cages. Often on various sites you may find entries to case modding, where you can find other disk cages that allow you to use four 3.5" disks in the space for two 5.25" slots. In my case I had 6 3.5" slots as is was delivered. I have modded my case to now contain 14 3.5" disks just on the front with room for another disk. To avoid disappointment in the future and a lot of work of rebuilding your PC into a new chassis, plan ahead for the storage requirements you may have in the next years. If you start out with 4
disks now, but expect to use 8 next year, be sure that they fit in, even if it requires different disk cages. Make sure that there is adequate cooling for the disks in the disk cages, preferably with 80 or 120 mm fans in front of the disks and use a replacable dust filter.
By this stage we have found the CPU, mobo, memory, hard disks and case. Time to have a look at video cards.
General: CS4 will not significantly benefit from a high end video card. The marketing hype wants us to believe that the nVidia
Quadro CX will give enormous benefits for encoding H.264, but that is just what it is: "Hype".
For general NLE work you are better served with more CPU power, more memory and more hard disks and possibly a better raid controller with more cache than with a video card that costs you at least $ 1 K extra in comparison to very good cards. Better spend the money where you benefit from it. SLI or CrossFire is a complete waste of money and only applies to gamers. Everybody serious about video editing will NEVER install a game on his machine so forget about those things.
If you make sure that you have at least 512 MB on a decent modern video card, you will be hard pressed to see significant differences in performance. ATI Radeon 4xxx and nVidia GT 2xx series are all well up to the task for editing. If you use GPU intensive plug-ins like Colorista or Magic Bullet you may be wise to choose for the more powerful versions of these cards, since these plug-ins are very demanding when rendering.
These video cards get very hot in practice and especially under load. If your case is very full or you have another card in the next PCI-e slot, reducing airflow to the video card, you may consider exchanging the stock cooler on the video card by a special cooler like the Accelero Twin Turbo from Arctic Cooling to keep temperatures in hand.
Now go to http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp and use the PSU calculator to roughly decide what your power supply needs to deliver in terms of Wattage. I strongly suggest to get the PRO version (it is cheap!) but it saves you from fatal mistakes. A PSU (power supply unit) is one of the most overlooked and neglected components in a PC and very often the cause for all kinds of mysterious faults, hangs, BSOD's, restarts etcetera. Let me tell what nearly happened to me when building a new PC. I had checked the power supply requirements, checked reviews online and found one PSU that appealed to me, based on the reviews. It was a Zalman 1000 W. Great, looks good and in stock at an attractive price. I then got the pro version and rechecked, with the extra info on the various rails. The Zalman did not have enough power on the 5V rails that I needed. So I had to change the PSU, otherwise I would have been in for a lot of strange, unexplainable and foreall unexpected hangs, restarts and the like, apart from the reduced life expectancy of the PSU.
Now, we're finally getting somewhere. Only cooling is left, then all the hardware components have been chosen.
CPU cooling: Again check sites like AnandTech. They regularly perform extensive tests on CPU coolers. Be aware that test results differ widely from site to site, but some of the names to consider are Noctua, Scythe and Thermaltake. It is best to choose a vertical heatsink cooler with 'push-pull' configuration, meaning one fan in front to push the cooling air in to the heatsink and the other fan at the rear to pull out the air. That generally delivers the best cooling performance. These things can be quite heavy so they are not suggested for LAN parties. Install it and leave your PC where it is, otherwise the weight may damage your mobo. When installing the heatsink be very sparing in applying cooling paste (Arctic silver is a good
suggestion).
If you have followed my advise in getting a big tower you have room for additional fans in the case. There may not always be holes to attach screws for mounting, but what also works quite effectively is using heavy duty double sided tape to attach fans to a side, on the PSU (if it is mounted at the bottom of the case). Scythe has some very good fans that give a large airflow at reasonable RPM's and low sound levels.
Once you have built your system you need to decide what OS to use. 32 or 64 bit? The point seems moot now. 64 bit Vista is your best option currently. No driver problems anymore, somewhat decent stability and the use of all your installed memory. Windows 7 is only a RC currently, so I would not advise that on a production machine, but on another machine I would definitely try it. It is as stable as Vista is now, but drivers are still somewhat lacking. XP is out, despite the best stability on a clean and mean system, due to the 32 bit nature.
After installing the OS, first check your device manager. Make sure that all your devices are working and there are no warnings. Then update Windows, drivers and other system utilities. Then check your hardware, using CPU-Z and HWMonitor, check the cooling and voltages. Your disks should be below 35 C at all times. Then tune your Bios. Once you have completed these steps, proceed with installing your software. Start with essential system tools like Process Explorer, Beyond Compare, etc. and then continue with tuning Windows, removing sh*t you never use on an editing machine, like MSN or Games, setting unneeded services to manual, disabling Windows Defender and installing Symantec Endpoint protection if you have it, and only then start installing CS4 and related programs.
When all is well, you may consider to start overclocking. TomsHardware and AnandTech have published several articles on how to do that. If you do it right you will not lose stability and may get significant performance gains. It does require more attention to the temperatures in your case.
When I recently built a new system, my first PassMark (a common benchmark testing program) score was around 3600. After finetuning the system, optimizing Windows and overclocking, I got a PassMark score of 4733.8, which even after a month is still number two in the worldwide ranking.
For my system specs, look below, maybe you can derive some ideas from it for your next configuration:
http://www.millcon.nl/Harm/PCResults.jpg
I hope this has been informative and that you can profit from my remarks.
I'm sorry this was so long and taxed your patience to the extreme.
Further suggestions and enhancements are welcome.
================================================================================
Yes, I'm going to tax your patience again. This is a guide to setup Vista 64 for NLE work, well it actually applies to any kind of work, but NLE machines may profit more than an Office/MSN machine. One caveat: What I suggest here is a lean and mean machine that is mainly dedicated to NLE work.
First: It is always best to start with a clean install and a complete reformat of the disk. That will ensure that your registry is clean and leaves no leftovers from a previous install. Do not partition the drive, format the whole disk as one.
After installation has completed, first select Control Panel and Personalize. Select Change Desktop icons and ensure that at least Computer is selected. You can choose other icons as well if you want to. I have all 5 selected.
Next check Device Manager (right click This Computer, select Properties and then Device Manager) that you have no problems with drivers for any of your hardware. If there are any yellow exclamation symbols, solve these issues first by having Vista search for drivers and if it comes back with the message that no drivers could be found, get the latest 64 bit driver from the internet for this device.
Once Device Manager has no more problems, go to Windows update and install all critical updates. Nothing more at this moment. After installation and rebooting, again check Device Manager for problems. There should be none. Otherwise get on the internet again and reinstall the latest Vista 64 drivers. Next right chick This Computer and select Manage and go to Event Viewer. Open the Windows Logs and click on System. Scroll through the events and check out any errors or warnings you see. Search the Microsoft Technet for solutions. This is the link to the very informative Technet site to help you solve any issues you may have: Microsoft Technet
Next go to Control Panel, select Programs and Features and select turn Windows features on or off. You may not need anymore than these Windows Features and possibly less, for instance if you don't use a network printer. Also this may be a good moment to turn off User Account Control via Control Panel/Security Settings.
Next go to Vista Services and use the instructions and the table shown to modify the services, so only those are started that are needed in your situation. Anything not needed will only increase boot time and will consume resources, placing a higher overhead on the system than needed.
After rebooting, update all your drivers if you have not already done so. For instance, if you have an ATI card, download the latest drivers, but remember you can do without the Catalyst Control Center. Their drivers are typically denoted by y.m (year, month) so currently the latest is version 9.5
Now go to Control Panel, System and select Advanced system settings, select Visual Effects and select Adjust for best performance, apply and then select the Advanced tab, click on Performance settings, select the Advanced tab, Select Adjust for best performance of programs and then change the Virtual memory. Setup your pagefile with a custom size with equal numbers for Initial and Maximum size on another drive than your C disk and set the C drive to No paging file. If you have read my Storage rules for an editing rig guide, you know you need a fixed size of around 1 to 1.5 times installed memory, unless you have lots of RAM, then you can easily go lower.
Reboot and right click on This Computer, select Manage and select Disk Management. Select drive C, right click Properties and make sure that Index this drive for faster searching and Compress this drive to save disk space are both turned off. Click Disk Cleanup and clean what can be deleted. Repeat these steps for all of your drives. Next go to the Tools tab and select Defragment Now and defrag all drives. While you are at the Disk Defragment window, setup a daily defragging schedule, for instance during your lunch break. That will keep your disks optimized.
This will make sure that the space previously occupied by the pagefile on the C drive is reclaimed and that the new pagefile on another drive is not fragmented and at the very beginning of the drive in the fastest location (at least if the disk was newly formatted and not used).
If you haven't done so yet, completely turn off the Sidebar and do not have it autostart.
No application has been installed yet, so it is time to start with some essential utilities.
The first thing I do is turning off Windows Defender and install Symantec Endpoint Protection.
Next I install Ccleaner. A very handy freeware tool to keep your system and the registry clean and to remove or disable registry based auto startup programs.
The next one to install is the Sysinternals Suite and most notably Process Explorer, Process Monitor and Autoruns. Depending on your use, other utilities in the Suite may be nice to install as well. Installation is done by extracting the relevant files to the C:\Windows directory. Run Process Explorer once and in the Options menu select Replace Task Manager.
Other utilities I install (but of course you may have different favorites) are Beyond Compare, HWMonitor, SpeedFan, SnagIt and 1ClickPCFix
You are now ready to install your regular software. After installation, registration and activation of all your software use Ccleaner, Tools to check for unnecessary Startup entries in the registry. Disable or remove them. Next check your registry by scanning for issues and fix selected issues. Defragment all your disks again and make a restore point.
If you want to get rid of the ridiculously large shortcut arrow at this moment, go to this site: Remove Shortcut Arrow and follow Method 1.
Reboot and you are ready to go with a hopefully much faster and efficient Vista machine.
If you encounter difficulties and have problems that want to ask about on the forum, be prepared to include a screenshot from Process Explorer and either HWMonitor or Speedfan and a link to DXDIAG.txt
Thanks for your patience and I hope you have found some tips and tricks to improve performance.

In general theory, one now has the Edit button for their posts, until someone/anyone Replies to it. I've had Edit available for weeks, as opposed to the old forum's ~ 30 mins.
That, however, is in theory. I've posted, and immediately seen something that needed editing, only to find NO Replies, yet the Edit button is no longer available, only seconds later. Still, in that same thread, I'd have the Edit button from older posts, to which there had also been no Replies even after several days/weeks. Found one that had to be over a month old, and Edit was still there.
Do not know the why/how of this behavior. At first, I thought that maybe there WAS a Reply, that "ate" my Edit button, but had not Refreshed on my screen. Refresh still showed no Replies, just no Edit either. In those cases, I just Reply and mention the [Edit].
Also, it seems that the buttons get very scrambled at times, and Refresh does not always clear that up. I end up clicking where I "think" the right button should be and hope for the best. Seems that when the buttons do bunch up they can appear at random around the page, often three atop one another, and maybe one way the heck out in left-field.
While I'm on a role, it would be nice to be able to switch between Flattened and Threaded Views on the fly. Each has a use, and having to go to Options and then come back down to the thread is a very slow process. Jive is probably incapable of this, but I can dream.
Hunt

Test of forum edit problem by a Moderator

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