Tether mode with Canon 40D

Hi Guys,
I Can't get my Canon 40D connected with the tether mode in Aperture. I rode in topics from early 2008 Aperture didn't supported Canon 40D. I was wondering if someone knows more about this and/or have a solution for this problem.
Thanks in advance!

I submitted the following on the Apple Feedback page. Feel free to copy and paste, and do the same thing.
http://www.apple.com/feedback/macosx.html
Ever since upgrading to the newest version of OSX, I'm having a problem tethering my Canon 40D to my Macbook using the Canon EOS Utility. After doing a number of searches on various photography and Mac forums, this is a common problem that seems to be a problem with OSX, not the Canon Utility. This is a VERY frustrating problem, and more can be read about it here:
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=8741896
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=8832865
http://photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00IMwB
And a number of other places.
I'm using a Canon 40D with OSX 10.5.6 on my Macbook. When I plug in the camera to the laptop and launch EOS Utility, sometimes it will launch properly, but as soon as I take a few photos or start adjusting settings, it'll start slowing down, then I'll get the spinning beachball of doom requiring me to force quit the EOS Utility. This is getting INCREDIBLY frustrating, as it's supposed to be a functionality supported by both Canon and Apple. I've also tried using the Aperture 2 Tether feature, but it doesn't support the 40D. I would really like to see either Canon or Apple take some responsibility for this problem and get it resolved soon.
Apple, please listen - your customers are begging for your help with this.

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Camera Raw 4.4.1 has bug with Canon 40D raw files

I shoot with the Canon 20D, 30D, 40D, 1DMII, and the Rebel XTI. The Raw processor is showing an anomaly only with the 40D files. When I load raw images, and when the image is displayed, it is shown at one setting. Then in 3 seconds, its updated again at about 1/2 stop brighter. Each time I click on another image on the left column, same thing. The new image is displayed, then 3 seconds later, updated at about 1/2 stop brighter. THe histogram reflects the changes showing the data moving to the right. This only happens with the 40D raw files.
Whats up?
It happens regardless if "Auto" or "Default" is selected. I use "default" as a norm, never letting PS do an auto correction.
How do I stop Camera Raw from doing the second update? This has to stop.
...Doug

Thanks John,
Now moved to ACR -
http://www.adobeforums.com/webx/.3bb6a85c.59b53a49

Problems with CANON 40d

Hi.
I have reed the topics related with CANON cameras but none resolved my problem.
I'm quite new to mac world but I recently purchased a MacBook Pro 2.66 that came pre-instaled with snow leopard. What was my surprise when a plugged my CANON 40D to it with USB cable! The computer doesn't recognize the camera! The camera keeps flashing the "Busy" message and nothing else works. Strange, I'm quite new to MACs but my wife have a MacBook Air with Leopard and everything works OK. What's wrong then? Anyone has or had the same problem?
I see i'll have to purchase a CF card reader, since I don't have any I have to "BOOTCAM" in order to take my photos off the camera...
What a shame!
Thanks for an answer!
Luis

Yep, me too.
can't import raw pics on aperture 2.1.4, iphoto 09, image capture app, or adobe bridge.
Thanks Apple.

"Bad" colors/banding when going into Edit mode with Canon RAW files

Just got my iLife '06 suite yesterday and ran into something very disturbing: something wrongwith the colors of RAW files once you go into editing mode. In the library view, they're fine. Try to edit one, and after a few seconds, there's a final refresh of the image window that heavily alters and bands the colors. (Looks almost like a poor conversion down to 256 colors or less - it's that bad).
This is happening on Canon 300D and 20D raw files, and did NOT happen with iPhoto 5. The RAW files open up and display just fine in Preview (as well as 3rd party apps) - problem is in iPhoto 6 only. I've already sent in a bug report - has anyone else tried double-clicking on a RAW file to go into Edit mode yet?
David Miller

I use Huey from Pantone to calibrate my monitor for consistancy in different lighting situations and across applications. But the same effect happens by choosing any one of the non-standard monitor calibrations.
Try this:
Choose a RAW photo and monitor calibratioin that causes the banding and discoloration.
Open the RAW photo in Edit mode and wait the couple of seconds for banding to appear.
Next, adjust the image size slider so that scroll bars appear at the bottom and right side of the photo. It doesn't take much. Notice the banding disappears!
Now grab one of the scroll bars and move it. Observe the banding and discoloration. And, when you release the scroll bar the banding disappears again.
I don't remember this happening with iPhoto 5.
I think it has something to do with the display
calibration. After I first saw this I switched back
to my default iMac G4 profile, and the problem wasn't
there anymore. I'm not sure what the difference is. I
set up several different profiles, each with
different choices for Advanced, White Point and
Gamma, and some trigger this banding, and some do
not.
Anybody have any similar experiences?

How to print in draft mode with Canon MX432

I am unable to choose draft mode when I print. I can view it, but it is greyed out. My only options are "normal" and "best". I have contacted Canon and they say it is not a Canon issue and rather a setting that needs to be done on my iMac. I am currently running OS X Mountain Lion 10.8.2. I have tried the print dialog box, settings and the printer web page. Still no solution.
Here is a pic of the dialog box in Safari. I have tried Word, Adobe, etc. They all have draft similarly greyed out.
I would appreciate any suggestions of fixes for this issue.
Thanks!

When you use the Canon driver, the 2 sided printing is set in a different location. There is an entire menu dedicated to it (at least on my mx892). The printer dialog box has a menu selector in the middle of the screen (I think it says "layout" by default). If you click on it, you will see the duplexing options at the bottom. Much more flexibility than the single checkbox available with "airprint". The interface is unusual (at least for me) but you can pre-set up many different configurations (Fast Duplex, Fine Single-sided, B&W, Photo, etc etc.)

Tether (not wireless) from Canon 40D to iPad (4th Gen)?

I have an iPad with Retina display (4th Gen) and a Lightning to USB Camera Adapter that I can connect to my Canon 40D. This setup downloads all photos at once, then I have to disconnect the tether in order to regain control of the camera. This is not what I want. As I take images, I want the “client” to be able to see each one. And, I do NOT want to tether wirelessly.
QUESTION: Is there any product(s) that would allow me to accomplish this task?

As far as I know, there is no wired tethering option for the iPad, only wireless (EyeFi and Cam Ranger for example).

What is the BEST way to get my macbook with lion on it, to communicate with my Canon 40D camera?

What is the BEST way to get my macbook with lion on it, to communicate with my Canon 40D camera? It says the utility disk is a PowerPC app and that is no longer supported. What do I do now? I can't upload photos from my camera.

Also, I had the same problem happen when I tried to install an older version of Corel Painter. Are Macbook Pro users just NOT supposed to be able to use their laptops for the purposes they are best designed for?
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Dark pictures with canon 5d mark 3 and 600ex flash, night indoors in Auto Mode and flash on.

I have purchased a new canon 5d mark 3 and speedlight 600ex-rt flash. While testing it indoor at night , the room lights are on and I was using the Auto Mode with Flash on. The pictures are Dark with the Flash on and when the flash is turned off the pictures are brighter. I am confused. How to get the AUto mode working with the Flash on.

Automatic mode, it it's attempt to be reasonably foolproof, is going to lock you out of having any control over the exposure.
The E-TTL metering system on your camera & flash are attempting to find the correct exposure for your subject.
Due to laws of physics (the inverse-square law), light has "fall off". It's not actually possible to use a single light source and expose a large room with that single light. Either the subject is nicely lit but everything else will probably be too dark. OR... the background is nicely lit but the subject is heavily over-exposed. (BTW, there are two ways to get around this.)
The amount of fall-off is based on the relative distance from the light. Every time the distance increases by a factor of 1.4 the amount of light is cut in half. This means if you have subject 10' away, but you have a foreground object only 7' away and a background object 14' away, and the flash is exposed for the subject at 10', then the foreground object will be over-exposed (with twice as much light as needed) and the background will be under-exposed (with half as much libght as needed.) Incidentally... if you "double" or "halve" the distance then the light difference will be 4x or 1/4 (depending on if you are getting closer or farther.)
Here's a video which both explains and then later demonstrates the concept in a way that makes it very obvious to see and easy to understand. If it seems confusing at first... stick with it. The video is only 12 minutes long.
In fully automatic mode the camera wont let you control anything (except how far away you stand from your subject).
If you switch to "Program" mode, it essentially works like automatic mode EXCEPT it will actually allow you to override settings or set compensations.
When you use a flash in a room with some ambient lighting (but otherwise dimly lit) there's a technique called 'dragging the shutter' (which the camera can actually do for you somewhat automatically).
To do that, set the camera to Tv mode (Tv = Time value... which is shutter priority mode). Dial in a slow-ish shutter speed... say around 1/60th of a second. Use a moderately boosted ISO (400 would probably work well... you might even go up higher).
The camera is going to evaluate the exposure needed for the room as though you don't have a flash... and it'll set the camera settings accordingly. However... since it knows you have a flash, it'll still perform the E-TTL II exposure metering and will use the flash anyway. What you end up with is a shot that has a nicely exposed primary subject (because the camera used flash) AND... a nicely exposed background which was primarily illuminated with ambient light -- but looks pretty good because the camera used an exposure that was adequate for the ambient light.
The reason I suggest using Tv mode and NOT Av mode is because you can control the mixture of flash vs. ambient light by controlling the TIME that the shutter is open. But this does NOT work if you control either the aperture or ISO.
Here's why: The flash is "momentary" but the ambient is constant. If you were to adjust the aperture settings, that will increase or decrease ALL the light sources that contribute to the exposure... so it increases (or decreases) the amount of flash AND the amount of ambient light ... and it does them in the same proportions. If you want to bright up the background lighting WITHOUT over-exposing your foreground subject, then you don't want to increase both... you only want to increase the amount of ambient light.
Since the flash is a momentary burst of light, if you leave shutter open longer you wont actually collect any more light from the flash (because the flash was providing illumination for only a tiny fraction of a second. Extending the amount of time that the shutter remains open means the camera will _only_ collect more of the ambient light... and that helps bring up the dark backgrounds.
One way to get around the flash fall-off problem is to greatly increase the distance between flash and subject. You still get "fall off" but now the distance you have to change to notice the fall off really increases. But this method usually isn't very practical because you'll be standing much farther then you'd prefer to be to get the shot.
The second way (and much more practical) is to "drag the shutter" (deliberately use longer shutter times so that the camera can collect more ambient light long after the flash is done.).
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

I have a problem with Canon PowerShot SX 60 Hs-camera with Camera Raw, I cannot open the pictures taken in raw mode. How can I update Camera Raw? I also tried with Photoshop Elements 13, but it was the same, I could not open raw pictures.ts 13

I have a problem with Canon PowerShot SX 60 HS-vamera wirh Camera Raw in Photoshop Elements 12, cannot open raw files. I have the newest version of camera Raw plug in, whats is the problem?

It is on our radar and hoping to add it in an upcoming update.
As soon as it is available, it will be update in the below article.
http://helpx.adobe.com/creative-suite/kb/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html
~ Arpit

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Drop-shadows
Drop-shadows under images both in Loupe and Grid view on Windows (only on Mac before). Though, in Loupe mode, they are somewhat buggy (they don't show until you zoom in and out) and jerky (as you move through the images, there's a visible lag between drawing the picture and it's shadow).
Responsiveness in Develop
Also, I was surprised (and what a nice surprise that is) to see that the changes applied in Develop module are now applied almost real-time! If you look carefully in 1:1, you can see that the changes are first reflected by a lower quality proxy images, then, in a fraction of a second, re-rendered on the actual image. At least on my machine it was much slower before.

Canon 40D and Geotagging (GPS)

I've been reading posts and I still cant seem to understand how to do this. I have a Canon 40d camera and want to use a gps data logger to track where photo's were taken and then have the GPS information imported into Aperture 3.
Is there an easy way to do this?
Thanks... Gary

I also own a *Canon EOS 40D* and I've investigated how to do that.
It turns out that the regular way is to use an optional module for the camera and hook up a GPS receiver to it.
• First, you need the *Canon Wireless File Transmitter WFT-E3A* that permits wireless transfer and back-up, as well as remote control of the camera in Live View mode.
It can also be connected to various GPS receivers or Hi-Speed USB 2.0 external storage devices such as convenient flash drives or high-capacity hard drives with much larger storage capacity than the memory cards in the camera for instant back-up as images are captured.
The WFT-E3A wireless transmitter also doubles as a vertical grip and requires its own BP-511A battery pack in addition to the battery installed in the camera body.
More on this hardware by googling or searching dpreview : http://search.dpreview.com/?q=WFT-E3A
I've found one on Amazon at $635 instead of $1200. But it's still rather expensive, unfortunately.
• Then, of course, you need to get a USB enabled GPS receiver.
I guess there are a great number of models available, with an equal variety in prices.
And then, your photos will have the GPS coordinates embedded in the file.
I hope this helps.
+Message was edited by: ThierryZ+

Help needed I have a canon 40D. I am thinking of buying a canon 6D.But not sure that my len

Hi all help needed I have a canon 40D. I am thinking of buying a canon 6D.
But not sure that my lenses will work.
I have a 170mm/ 500mm APO Sigma.
A 10/20 ex Sigma HSM IF.
And a 180 APO Sigma Macro or do I have to scrap them and buy others.
ALL Help will be greatly received. Yours BRODIE

In short, I love it. I was going to buy the 5DMark III. After playing with it for a while at my local Fry's store where they put 5DMII, 5DMIII and 6D next to each other, using the same 24-105L lens, I decided to get the 6D and pocket the different for lens later.
I'm upgrading from the 30D. So I think you'll love it. It's a great camera. I have used 5DMII extensively before (borrowing from a close friend).
Funny thing is at first I don't really care about the GPS and Wifi much. I thought they're just marketing-gimmick. But once you have it, it is actually really fun and helpful. For example, I can place the 6D on a long "monopod", then use the app on the phone to control the camera to get some unique perspective on some scenes. It's fun and great. GPS is also nice for travel guy like me.
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Cannot open SRaw files from my Canon 40D can open Large Raw files

Hello,
I use Windows XP. I have Adobe Photoshop CS3 Extended. I use Canon 40D. I have run updates in Photoshop and all is updated (I have ACR 4.2). Camera raw only appears once when I look at About Plug-In. I am not able to open the small raw files, but I am able to open the large ones with Camera Raw in Photoshop.
Has anyone else experienced this? Can anyone help?
Thanks! Linda

Jeff,
I also put a level of responsibility on Canon
"Please be sure to place _ALL_ of the responsibility on Canon...it's THIER firmware. "
FWIW, I did lace into Canon Tech support today about two major pieces, first the lack of any information regarding the update. Spoke to a supervisor. He claimed that being only out there a week was not enough time for them to get informed. I reminded him that he should probably add another week to that allowing build time to get the cameras loaded with the new FW and out to distributors, and that 2 weeks was more than enough time for them to hear something. With regard to the "responsibility of the RAW software company to be code to new cameras" I reminded him Adobe already had and it was working fine with the 40D and that their "point release" which no one seems to be able to find (except on the cameras) broke what was working. The Saga sadly continues...
Jay S.

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Heading says it all really. Just purchased new Canon 40D Body and have been using CS2 on Mac OS 10.4 for over two years. Cannot read RAW files in Photoshop Bridge which is what I have used consistently with 20D files up to now. Quick search on Google brought up fact that Adobe had not up upgraded Bridge to read new 40D files but that was 2 years ago. Am now looking for plug-in! Can anyone help or am I now forced to upgrade my CS2 or move away to Aperture or Lightroom? Any help gratefully received. Rob

The 40d is not supported by any version of Camera Raw that can run in CS2. You need at least CS3 and ACR 4.2 or greater.
Dowload the free, stand-alone Adobe DNG Converter 5.3 and convert the raw files from your 40d to raw DNGs first, then you can open the DNG files in ACR 3.7 hosted by CS2.

Problem with Canon iPF8300

Hi everyone, I've got a problem with my Canon iPF8300 and Photoshop CC.
I've installed the latest drivers (3.01), last OS (10.8.5) and last Photoshop (14.1.1).
I cannot print on a A3+ sized paper, the printers print only a piece of the image, like it was set a bigger paper size, but I double checked that.
I had to play with the AppColorMatchingInfo.xml and add Photoshop CC to the list of apps, becuase before that I couldn't even print at all. The print received the command but all the jobs went on the job queue but didn't print.
With Canon Plugin I can print without any problem, but the plugin misses the Adobe CMM...
Any workaround?
Thanks

First clarify this statement...
I captured video, and when I went on FCP and did log and capture, it said the camcorder was offline.<</div>
Have you already captured with this camera or are you trying to capture with it now?
If you're trying to capture with it now, are you capturing to an external harddrive? If so, the problem may be because you're overtaxing your FW bus.
If you're not already, you might try capturing to your internal (so the iMac is only accessing the camera on the single FW bus), then transfer the media to an external to edit.
Does the iMac recognize the camera? (check in System Profiler)
Is the camera in playback mode?
Have you tried shutting down and making sure your camera is on before opening FCP?

Tether mode with Canon 40D

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