The best cable for hdmi out ?
any suggestions which cable would be the best to watch movies on led tv via using my macbook pro ?
i saw there are nine cables which are doing the same job except one difference dwhich is the producer company
so let me know which one suits my macbook pro best ?
1- http://store.apple.com/us/product/H3983ZM/A?fnode=MTY1NDA3Ng
2-http://store.apple.com/us/product/H1824ZM/A/Moshi_Mini_DisplayPort_to_HDMI_Adapt er?fnode=MTY1NDA3Ng
3-Artwizz Mini DisplayPort <=> HDMI (2m)
4-Macally Mini DisplayPort (male input direct hdmi no converter)
5-SendStation Mini DisplayPort
6-"Macally Mini DisplayPort
7-Atlona Mini DisplayPort 180cm
8-dismaq Mini DisplayPort
9-Dr.Bott Mini DisplayPort
10-be.ez Astuce Mini DisplayPort
If you want to save some money don't bother with the Moshi or Belkin. You're paying for the name like buying Monster cables, which are overpriced too. Get the following adapter from monoprice.com.
Mini DisplayPort | Thunderbolt® to HDMI® Adapter w/ Audio Support
Similar Messages
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where to find the best application for cleaning out my MacBook Air with OS X 10.7.5? I've been using MacKeeper but believe it's slowing down my laptop considerable. Thank you.
How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; make them independent of each other. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the Software Update preference pane, you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis. This is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, this stuff is useless, or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
The more actively promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for — such as creating, communicating, and playing — and does not modify the way other software works. Use your computer; don't fuss with it.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
4. Beware of trojans. A trojan is malicious software (“malware”) that the user is duped into installing voluntarily. Such attacks were rare on the Mac platform until sometime in 2011, but are now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be acquired directly from the developer. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from a web page without your having requested it should go straight into the Trash. A website that claims you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, is rogue.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem. While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage consumption and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as the free application OmniDiskSweeper to explore your volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move rarely-used large files to secondary storage.
6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it. -
I have a MacBook Air (13", 1.7GHz, 8GB RAM, 500GB SSD) that I'll be using to play sound files (primarily organ and piano) for worship services at my church. We'll be using a QSC RMX2450 650 Watts/Channel amplifier with Community CPL-27 speakers and also a JBL SUB 250P powered subwoofer with its own amplifier. What's the best option for getting sound out from the Mac to both of these amplifiers?
if you work with own recorded sounds you might wanna have a music program where you want to work with samples, steinberg has got very good ones (so they say)... but their really really ( ²) expensive(that's why almost no one haves them), magix haves good ones too bu their more for 'unprofessional' use, ableton haves really good ones too and they're not to difficult to use (if you know a bit of those programs you learn very quickly) and if you don't get them, there is a sort of manual built in it which explains and lets you do things to start (basics)
i hope this helped, btw stereo speakers are always better if you buy good ones (no pc speakers), but if you don't think you need them, don't buy them...
so again, i hope you have some ideas now -
Is the magic wand tool the best tool for cutting out a person's head?
Need advice! The picture is of a girl with her hair blowing in the wind, so I'm not sure about using the magic wand tool.
I guess we should ask what version of Photoshop the OP is using.
One could arge that the OP should have provided that information by themselves and, if not, kind of deserves potentially being confused by having functionality presented that may not be part of their set-up …
Edit: But in all fairness I suspect I may have omitted such information myself when I first started asking questions on this Forum.
Not to mention that it seems somewhat remarkable howt many people seem to prefer talking about specific images to simply posting them (or lores or section of them) – which would make assessing the tasks in question often a lot easier. -
Which is the best alignment for a Date-time data type (WPF)
Hello,
sorry If I'm asking this question in the wrong place (If you could help me where to ask it :) )
I have read the Microsoft guidelines for Layout. Left and right alignment are briefly described... but I don't see anything for Date/Time data type? What is the best alignment for this type of data?
Can you tell me where I can find the relevant information? Microsoft guidelines or other?
We are using WPF.
Thank you very much :)Welcome to the discussion area!
+1) Will using the TC on a wireless network as a repeater half my connection speed while doubling my coverage?? In that case it might be worth it..+
Unfortunately, the Time Capsule will only "extend" a wireless network if the network has been created by another Apple "n" router. So the Netgear would not be compatible with the Time Capsule for this purpose.
If you could connect the Netgear and Time Capsule together using an ethernet cable, you would be able to create one large wireless network.
+2) Do I have any reason to believe I could get better coverage using the TC as the Base Station and trying to virtually impossible task of setting up the Netgear as a bridge?+
Not sure about "better coverage", but the Time Capsule would create dual band networks operating at both 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz so faster devices could connect at 5 GHz for maximum speed and slower devices would connect to the 2.4 GHz band.
In addition, if the Time Capsule connects directly to your cable modem, you could enable the "guest" network feature if you needed that function. (However, if the Time Capsule is configured in the network as a "bridge", the guest network feature cannot be enabled).
On a quick glance, your Netgear router does not appear to be a simultaneous dual band device. If that's the case, you could configure it to expand either the 2.4 GHz band or 5 GHz band (assuming it will handle 5 GHz) for wider wireless coverage. But, the connection between devices would need to be via ethernet cable, and as you point out, the Netgear would need to configured as a "bridge" in this type of setup.
If running the ethernet cable is simply not possible, take a look at a pair of ethernet powerline adapters to accomplish the same task using the AC wiring in your home to transmit the ethernet signal. While not as good as a straight ethernet cable, this type of connection would still yield better performance than wireless only, if the devices were compatible. -
Is Rh the Best App for Managing 41 manuals, with many pages being the same?
I'd like to automate a labor intensive task that I will soon be assuming. We have 41 install manuals for an automotive accessory that fits 41 different models of vehicles. The current manual is 28 pages with at least 24 pages being identical. The documents are done in Word, along many pictures and drawings. When the document is finished, it is converted to a PDF and sent with the item. The pdf is also made available online for folks who may need the electronic version. When we change one page that is common to all, we have to manually update each Word file and then convert it. As you can imagine, the manuals don't get updated and corrected as often as they should
Since most of the pages are the same, I would like software that can manage changes to these pages and automatically update all manuals. For example, if a change is necessary on page 6 and 34 manuals use this page, I simply change one page and the software "exports" this new page to all affected manuals.
1) Would Rh do this?
2) Would it be the best choice for this task?
3) If Rh is the best choice for this, what is the best approach for beginning this task? Get a book and read or just jump in?
4) I came across a book written by a firm called GooberGuides, is this a good resource? Do you recommend a better one?
5) Does my project require a special technique when setting it up in an app like Rh or is the process fairly intuitive? I don't want to waste time by implementing this incorrectly, only to start over again when I realize there was a better way.
I would be very grateful for any guidance you could provide.
Thank you.
RodgerI don't think your questions were answered, except for the tool one, which is not the most important one. I would reverse your questions:
Does my project require a special technique? Yes! Single sourcing, which is a methodology for developing modular, reusable information, not a tool. Before you even approach a tool, you must analyze your content, define standards for it, define information types (Google for DITA), and convert it from linear (as your Word documents are) to modular.
I have not seen the GooberGuides book, but I can definitely offer these:
Content Managment for Dynamic Web Delivery - Jo Ann Hackos
DITA 101 - Anne Rockley, Charles Cooper, and Steve Manning
Introduction to DITA: A User Guide to the Darwin Information Typing Architecture - Jennifer Linton & Kylene Bruski
Managing Enterprise Content: A Unified Content Strategy - Anne Rockley
Single Sourcing: Building Modular Documentation- Kurt Ament
Tools - obviously since we're on the Adobe forum, Technical Communication Suite must be acknowledged. But you can accomplish single sourcing with several tools. Check out a brief overview of some at http://www.writersua.com/restools.htm.
Jan Shelton -
What's the best photograph for a no background image?
I am about to photograph some products and would like to make a set up where I can photograph each of the products in the same setting/lighting. Then, when I go to open/edit them in PhotoshopCS4, I can take out the background and have just the image. Then, I can place that image ontop of any background I want. There is one bad thing. Some of these have a clear top where you can see thru them. Does or will that make a difference?
I want to set it up like they do for the weather on television, have a blue background and erase all of the blue showing. Then the only thing showing in the end is the digital background that was added in by computer and the weatherman(unless he's wearing a blue tie, in which case you can see the info through him). But my question still stands, what is the best setting for this and/or background color, how should the photographs be taken and then opened and edited(removing the background) using PhotoshopCS4?
We have a lighting set up, a 30" x 30" x 30" light tent setup, 3 lights with Pro Light Reflectors(one on the left, one on the right and one on top), 1 white and 1 black background and a box to place the images on. I'm using a Nikon D100.
Attached in a photo example.
This was taken with the black background and you can see the black through the bottle. I erased all of the surrounding black, but the dark shades still show on the sides.
Any help will be appreciated.
SeanThe whole point is that these photographs will be used for the book, manuals, magazines, ads... The backgrounds will not always be the same. That's my main problem. I am trying to figure out a way for the glass of the bottles to be "glass" images or "see through" so that when the photograph is placed on a background of, let's say, flowers, the flowers would show through. The edges of the glass are still solid and the flowers would not show thru them, but...
Is this type of thing possible for printing quality photographs?
Note - In the attched photo, it can be seen that the black background can be seen the plastic cap. -
Anyone have any idea which is the best application for taking notes and essay writting?
im starting my first year of university and i was wondering what would the best application for taking notes on be? and also whats the easiest, most reliable and effective way to transfer documents off the ipad? Any thoughts on printing aswell?
will be appreciating all the help i can get!You're going to get as many answers to that question as there are people to answer it. You don't state if you want to take handwritten notes or if you will be typing. For handwritten notes, I really like Noteshelf. It has lots of export options, my favorite being to Evernote (which you might want to look into as well for storage). For typing notes, I'd go with Pages, Documents to Go or QuickOffice. For working with PDFs, I like PDF Expert.
I've recently heard good things about Note Anytime. It is free for a limited time, so it'st probably worth downloading to try out. -
What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?
What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?
1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices. -
Can you use the same charging cable for both an iPhone and an IPad or are they different? When I use the charging cable for my iPhone on my Ipad, it doesn't charge.
The quickest way (and really the only way) to charge your iPad is with the included 10W USB Power Adapter. iPad will also charge, although more slowly, when attached to a computer with a high-power USB port (many recent Mac computers) or with an iPhone Power Adapter (5W). When attached to a computer via a standard USB port (most PCs or older Mac computers) iPad will charge very slowly (but iPad indicates not charging). Make sure your computer is on while charging iPad via USB. If iPad is connected to a computer that’s turned off or is in sleep or standby mode, the iPad battery will continue to drain.
Apple recommends that once a month you let the iPad fully discharge & then recharge to 100%.
How to Calibrate Your Mac, iPhone, or iPad Battery
http://www.macblend.com/how-to-calibrate-your-mac-iphone-or-ipad-battery/
At this link http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/galaxy-tab-android-tablet,3014-11.html , tests show that the iPad 2 battery (25 watt-hours) will charge to 90% in 3 hours 1 minute. It will charge to 100% in 4 hours 2 minutes. The new iPad has a larger capacity battery (42 watt-hours), so using the 10W charger will obviously take longer. If you are using your iPad while charging, it will take even longer. It's best to turn your new iPad OFF and charge over night. Also look at The iPad's charging challenge explained http://www.macworld.com/article/1150356/ipadcharging.html
Also, if you have a 3rd generation iPad, look at
Apple: iPad Battery Nothing to Get Charged Up About
http://allthingsd.com/20120327/apple-ipad-battery-nothing-to-get-charged-up-abou t/
Apple Explains New iPad's Continued Charging Beyond 100% Battery Level
http://www.macrumors.com/2012/03/27/apple-explains-new-ipads-continued-charging- beyond-100-battery-level/
New iPad Takes Much Longer to Charge Than iPad 2
http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/03/new-ipad-takes-much-longer-to-charge-than-ipa d-2.html
Apple Batteries - iPad http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
Extend iPad Battery Life (Look at pjl123 comment)
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3921324?tstart=30
New iPad Slow to Recharge, Barely Charges During Use
http://www.pcworld.com/article/252326/new_ipad_slow_to_recharge_barely_charges_d uring_use.html
Tips About Charging for New iPad 3
http://goodscool-electronics.blogspot.com/2012/04/tips-about-charging-for-new-ip ad-3.html
Prolong battery lifespan for iPad / iPad 2 / iPad 3: charging tips
http://thehowto.wikidot.com/prolong-battery-lifespan-for-ipad
Cheers, Tom -
What is the best app for backing up my mac. I do publication work and need to save my work?
what is the best app for backing up my mac. I do publication work and need to save my work?
My answer does not have the black Apple logo but the hardearned black belt of (bad) experience.
There is one problem with TimeMachine. It can get corrupted out of the blue with no warning and it will not want to restore correctly (as an added "bonus" you get to find this out the "hard" way, when you need it most). Plus it takes ages for the data to be copied back, sometimes days. Haven't tried my 600gb backup on Mavericks but Mountain Lion had this knack of breaking Timemachine after a couple of months.
To back up my entire server is use SuperDuper. It mirrors the drive to an external one (usb for example) The cool thing is you can use that usb drive and start the OS X from it (by holding Alt when you hear the boot chime).
This way you have a working copy of your entire machine. You can even go to another mac and boot it from there. I literally ran the OS X Server in my company from a usb drive on an old MacBook Pro until i got around to fix the problems with the actual server machine.
This has saved me twice already as the Hitachi drives Apple uses, tend to die like clockwork after 4000-5000 hours of use with no warning.
http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/SuperDuperDescription.html
PS. As a sidenote... SSDs are more reliable than a normal HDD (not to mention faster) I can't stress this enough, my Server is on two SSDs now. I can't tell you how stress free the setup is, it doesn't feel like a computer but more like a router, it just works... forever. After two years with SSDs my server has had two days of downtime and their health is at 97%, they will literally last 100 years with normal use. I'd go so far as to recommend you buy an SSD and move your old HDD to an external enclosure and use that as a usb backup. (for SSDs i use Plextor / Lite-On M3s (older) or the M6s (newer)) -
What are the best settings for ripping cd's in the AAC format?
I have researched and found out that the AAC format rules over the MP3 format as fas as sound quality goes with lossy formats. Example: AAC at 128 is better than MP3 at 160 as so forth. My questions are: What are the best settings for ripping cd's in the AAC format? Will I be able to burn cd mixes with the tracks I import into itunes after importing using the AAC format? Does the AAC format have VBR like the MP3 format? Is there other ripping software such as dbPoweramp and Exact Audio Copy that does a better job ripping cd's in the AAC format? Please help!
mysteryroach wrote:
My questions are: What are the best settings for ripping cd's in the AAC format?
It is a matter of opinion, but I suggest 256 kb/s, CBR, and leave all other settings on automatic.
Will I be able to burn cd mixes with the tracks I import into itunes after importing using the AAC format?
Yes. Just put them in a playlist and burn.
Does the AAC format have VBR like the MP3 format?
Yes. You will see it as an option in the Import Settings.
Is there other ripping software such as dbPoweramp and Exact Audio Copy that does a better job ripping cd's in the AAC format?
EAC does a better job of correcting errors in damaged CDs, but for normal CDs iTunes does a fine job of ripping to AAC. -
Is an iPhone app the best choice for our project?
Dear All,
We are developing a travel tour idea for different locations within the US. Tour content can include video, audio, images and text, as well as maps and locations. We want to make our tours "in-depth" so that people can spend good quality time traveling a short distance and exploring "in-depth" rather than travelling long distances and giving only casual interest to what they see.
I'm new to developing apps for the iPhone and am using Dreamweaver CS5.5 soon to be updated to CS6.
I'm wondering if an app for iPhone and other related media like Android is really the way to go because of the limited content and screen size available. I can envision our tours being utilized in many other formats, including iPad, Interactive PDF, as travel e-books or through an interactive website. Our goal is to sell our apps, not give our material away for free. PDF would be my preferred format, but I know that PDF is easily transferred for free among users and would probably not give us much profit.
Any thoughts out there on what the best format for our project might be, or should it include ALL of the above formats? App creation for the iPhone is a rather complicated process, so that's why I'm wondering if after all of the work that you have to put in to create an iPhone app, if that is ultimately my best choice.
I would appreciate any thoughts or advice, or any questions you might have. I'm working on a Mac Pro with CS5.5 Master Collection soon to be updated to CS6
Small Town Galhi,
It depends on your requirement. Base on my experience, VM or website all could meet your requirement. From your description, You could use azure website to host your php website (http://www.windowsazure.com/en-us/documentation/articles/web-sites-php-configure/).
And you could use website auto scale feature in the future. I suggest you could see their comparison (http://www.windowsazure.com/en-us/documentation/articles/choose-web-site-cloud-service-vm/
Hope it helps.
Regards,
Will
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What is the best replacement for iDVD
I just bought a new iMac and found out that iDVD has vanished. What's the best approch for making slide shows from iPhoto and burning to a DVD?
Sorry, but I haven't found a way to burn a movie directly from iMovie since iMovie HD (6) (note: burn project to disk):
Whereas, there are no options to burn in the current iMovie version:
You can share it to online sites and you can export it, but you can't burn it. -
What is the best replacement for iWeb?
I have been using iWeb for a very long time. I need to move on to something that is being updated. What is the best replacement for iWeb? I see Wordpress needs special software to work on a Mac.
Thanks!
PatI have used HostExcellence in the past and they support all the CMS's including WordPress, so you should have no problems there.
The top CMS's that most have heard about and use are Drupal, Joomla and WordPress.
There is probably no best one, but you need to look at them all and use the one that best fits your needs.
I have used all of them in the past, but most recently Joomla and Drupal. Drupal has a reputation for being quite hard and Drupal 6 was, but with the advent of Drupal 7, things got a lot easier. There are a lot more themes that you can use and if you want increased functionality in Drupal, then you can download Modules and install them. You can have a membership site if you want it and this is easy to do - people can sign up for an account and you can restrict their access to certain parts of the site and then limit what they can do. You can allow people to complete forms on the site itself and the results to be sent to you. There is a Blog module that you can enable and that comes in Drupal Core with no need to download an extra module.
Joomla is good also and you can have a Blog with it too and there are lots of themes to choose from, but sometimes you have to pay for extras with Joomla - you can download Extensions and Plugins, but they may not always be free.
WordPress was always just thought of as a blogging platform, but it has evolved in to much more than that and you can now create stunning looking websites with blogs - there are a good range of free templates to choose from and if you want your blog on the front page of your site you can have this, or you can change it to another part of your site if you want a static front page. To extend functionality you can download plugins from inside WordPress itself, most of which are free. This might be the easiest one for you to use if you just want a website with a built in blog that is relatively easy.
Check out the others though at Drupal.org, Joomla.org and then WordPress.org.
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