The Low-Down on the MacBook Pro

Ok kids, i want the truth.
I want the good the bad the great and the ugly of MacBook Pro.
Overall i love all the things that Apple says about it, im going to buy it as my first Mac ever, no matter what yall say.
But i have heard quite a few complaints/problems with this machine.
Let me list off some and have yall help me list the rest, i want to make this a one stop place for people with MBP problems.
1) I heard Creative Suite CS2 doesnt work (has problems)
a) version que is the problem b/c it doesnt install well with Rosetta
answer- try not to install version que
2) Battery Problems
a) Processor issue when your battery is out
b) Shutdowns
c) Distortion with the casing
answer- get a new battery from Apple... they will get this problem right eventually b/c they care about there customers
3) Intel Processor
a) Most all programs (run thro an Emulator... rosetta) will be slower, b/c they are in Mac format
answer- deal with it, till the Universal Format comes out
4) Whining or noise
a) Hope you get a good one. b/c it could whine
b) whine can come off and on at almost any time.
answer- get a new one from apple (they will get it sorted out, we have to trust em)
5) Heat
a) Can get pretty hot when heavily run
answer- see if thers an actual problem and/or get a new computer b/c alot dont have problems
These problems could be fixed on the Newer MacBook Pro models... i am unsure (anyone know?)
If there are anymore problems/concerns or you just want to agree with me, please post... i did this to help people b/c ive read alot.
Once again, i didnt do this to bash Apple... b/c i still love you guys!! and am going to buy your MBP.
Thanks,
Aaron Fischer

Hi Rick
Yes you are right, cases like mine are rare and Apple products are very good and OSX is a very good OS for a desktop system.
But my own experience indicates that maybe quality control for Mac laptops could be better perhaps. And it took Apple a long time to admit that the memory slot RAM problem with the PB existed.
My problem is that I am living in Spain away from my home base in UK at the moment and am completely reliant on my computer - whatever brand that might be. I used a Mac SE30 years ago with no problem, had to go over to You Know What for work reasons but came back to Apple because for what I do (photographs) it is (and remains) the best platform.
The people in tech support and customer service I have dealt with have been exemplary, probably the best I have ever dealt with in 20 years of dealing with IT support.
But I just cannot rely on my Macbook Pro. An exceptional experience perhaps but unfortunately it is mine But there does seem to be quite a few people who have returned faulty MBPs several times.
Bottom line is when I pay someone the equivalent of $5,000 or so for something I expect it to be reasonably reliable, be that a car, a camera or a computer.
FYI http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=1681747#1681747
Cheers,
Mark
MacBook Pro Mac OS X (10.4.6) 2Gb RAM

Similar Messages

I can't turn the volume up or down on my MacBook Pro?

I can't turn the volume up or down on my MacBook Pro? It shows a kind of "stop" sign? I can get the speakers to work by connecting my headphones to the computer and choosing the sound to be on the speakers, but as soon as I take the headphones out, I can't get any sound out of the speakers..
Sometimes there is a "Red" light coming out of the AUX-port?

Hey vgamborg,
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
This article should help you troubleshoot issues playing sound from the built-in speakers. Try the steps listed, and I quoted a part about the red light.
Troubleshooting issues with no audio from built-in speakers on Macs
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1574
Check to see if a red light is lit in the line-out port. If so, your Apple computer may need service.
Have a nice day,
Mario

HT4110 What is the best battery setting for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display?

I want to know the best setting for the battery for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display.

To add just a little
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace

How will an external Hard drive designed for the macbook Pro work with my White Macbook? My white macbook has a Firewire 400 and the G-Tech HD has a 800 to 400 compatible cable for the firewire.

I am asking this because I want the G-Tech Hard drive says that it is designed for the macbook pro. Yet, I want to back up faster with by using my firewire 400 which is not an option on the one designed for the white macbook that does not have a firewire (only a USB port.) The G-Tech Hard drive comes with the 800 to 400 compatible cable and has 5400 RPM with 750 GB. Also, I've heard that laptops with low battery (mine all the time) won't have the power for a bus powered Hard drive (as in no ac plug in adaptor.) Can I just plug in my laptop? Any one know the answers from experience with this hard drive?

As far as I know, if a harddrive works with a Macpro, it should work with the Macbook: if your Macbook is low on power, plug in the AC adapter
If your Macbook has a firewire port, then it should be fine. BUt i would do somemore research first.

Stop the beeps with the 7200 rpm hard disks of the MacBook Pro

http://www.hardmac.com/news/2009/07/13/stop-the-beeps-with-the-7200-rpm-hard-dis ks-of-the-macbook-pro
Stop the beeps with the 7200 rpm hard disks of the MacBook Pro
from HardMac.com by [email protected] (Lionel)
At the beginning of week, we have spoken about the unpleasant beeps made by the 7200 rpm hard drive proposed as an option in the MacBook Pro 2009.
A solution has been found, the details are given by Rémy.
These tedious beeps occur when the disc is inactive and are caused by a system
to reposition the play-back head carried out in a repetitive way.
In addition to the beeps of the hard drive, Mac OS X displays the pretty multicoloured wheel during some seconds while waiting for hard drive to finish these loadings and unloadings of the play-back head.
The solution comes with a utility of the name hdapm (for Hard Disk Advanced Power Management) which makes it possible to change the level of energy management (APM) of the hard drive.
Hdapm can be downloaded from : http://mckinlay.net.nz/hdapm; hdapm being a command line utility, it is thus necessary to use the Terminal (which is in /Applications/Utilitaires).
After copying hdapm into your user file, the command to enter is:
sudo ~/hdapm disk0 max
disk0 corresponds to the disc to regulate knowing that hdapm should function with any ATA disk supporting APM
max is the level of APM which is a number ranging between 1 and 254 included
the word following are preset and can used in the place a number for the level of APM
max (maximum performance) is the parameter to use to eliminate the “beeps”.
min (maximum economy of energy)
default (returns to the default setting)
The level of APM is a temporary adjustment in the firmware of the hard drive, this adjustment is lost when the disk is powered down and it is thus necessary to redo this at each for each start up.
To install hdapm so it is launched at each start-up, it is necessary to copy hdapm to the hard drive (/usr/local/bin is advised) and to copy the file hdapm.plist in /Library/LaunchDaemons.
It will be can be necessary to you to edit hdapm.plist with the desired parameters; the default settings are: the repertory where hdapm is /usr/local/bin, the hard drive is regulated on the first (disk0) and the level of APM is the maximum.
You can simply copy the file hdapm into /usr/local/bin file if you want to avoid modifying Plist.
Simplest way to reach these files is to use the Go/go to the file and to copy/paste this address before validating.

Yeah, I don't buy that. I spoke with Seagate a couple of months ago when I was looking for the impossible to find 500 GB 7200 RPM HD and asked them that very thing. They told me it would work fine, but I should disable SMS. Apple told me the same thing. I ultimately waited and got a non G-Force model, but Seagate told me it would work.
I also don't believe that they'd OEM the drive to Apple knowing it wouldn't work. That makes absolutely no sense. If Seagate knew the G-Force drive would not function properly in an Apple MacBook/MacBook Pro, and they OEM'd it to Apple for that purpose anyway, what does that say about Seagate?
I admit it's odd that the used the G-Force model given the presence of SMS, but apparently Seagate has prioritized the manufacturing of the G-Force drives and probably offered it to Apple.

How do I share music in iTunes between different iTunes account on the MacBook Pro?

How do I share music in iTunes between different iTunes account on the MacBook Pro?

If it's in a single iTunes library, it's already being shared. If it's in separate user accounts on the computer, move one library to the /Users/Shared/ folder, launch iTunes with the Option key held down, point it there, and import the music from the other library to it.
(79794)

The MacBook Pro will not allow me to cut-and-paste to and from or to click-and-drag to the external drive. I can copy-and-paste, but then I must send the original to the trash, which doubles the time and effort. Is there any way to cut-and-paste?

I have recently switched from a PC to a MacBook Pro.
I have a large number of documents and photographs on a multiterrabite external drive, backed up on a second multiterrabite external drive.
Both external drives are formatted for MacIntosh. This has been verified by agents at an Apple store and also at Best Buy in two different cities.
This is the problem:
The MacBook Pro will not allow me to cut-and-paste to and from or to click-and-drag to the external drive. I can copy-and-paste, but then I must send the original to the trash, which doubles the time and effort. Is there any way to cut-and-paste?
Also, the MacBook Pro will not allow me to rename multiple documents or photographs. I can click-and-rename a single one, but this is impossibly time consuming. I can batch-rename in iPhoto, but when I transfer the photographs to the external drive, the rename does not transfer.
I’m reduced to using my wife’s Toshiba to cut-and-past, rename, and transfer documents. It works perfectly. Is there any way to do this on the MacBook Pro?
Thanks!
Roderick Guerry
[email protected]

Roderick Guerry wrote:
The MacBook Pro will not allow me to cut-and-paste to and from or to click-and-drag to the external drive. I can copy-and-paste, but then I must send the original to the trash, which doubles the time and effort. Is there any way to cut-and-paste?
No, this is a philosophical difference between Apple and Microsoft. Apple believes that it's dangerous to cut a file in case the user never pastes it; in that case the file is lost. Microsoft seems to not have this problem (if I remember Windows correctly) because they don't delete the originating file if it's cut but never pasted.
Even though Macs have a lot of keyboard shortcuts, philosophically Macs have traditionally been mouse-first. This applies to file copy operations. In your case, what a Mac user would do is open the source window, open the destination window (on your second drive), and then Command-drag the selected files from the source to destination window. This is because a normal drag would leave the originals behind, while adding the Command modifier key tells OS X that this is a Move, not a Copy, so don't leave the originals behind.
(In addition there are different rules for drag-copying within the same volume or between different volumes. If you drag between two folders on the same volume, the files are moved. If you drag between different volumes, the files are copied unless you hold down Command to delete the copies on the source volume.)
Roderick Guerry wrote:
Also, the MacBook Pro will not allow me to rename multiple documents or photographs. I can click-and-rename a single one, but this is impossibly time consuming. I can batch-rename in iPhoto, but when I transfer the photographs to the external drive, the rename does not transfer.
Two problems in this case. First, batch file renaming is not built into OS X unless you build something with Automator. However, there are many utilities that can do batch file renaming which you can find at macupdate.com or on the App Store. Since I work with media I often batch rename using one of the media managers I have lying around like Media Pro or Adobe Bridge (comes with Photoshop).
iPhoto is a database front end designed to shield the file system from the consumer and let them concentrate on creativity and sharing. As such it is often a poor choice for managing files directly. When you "transferred the photographs" chances are you moved the originals, not the ones iPhoto edited which are stored in a hidden folder.
Roderick Guerry wrote:
I’m reduced to using my wife’s Toshiba to cut-and-past, rename, and transfer documents. It works perfectly. Is there any way to do this on the MacBook Pro?
There will not be a way to do it exactly like Windows. As described above, there are ways to do it "the Mac way." If it is possible to remove judgment on which way is "better" you might find the Mac way to be acceptable, but of course sometimes we simply prefer what we're used to.

Is it worth replacing the MacBook Pro with an iPad Air?

I've been sat in the realms of contemplation for some time now. Since the release of the iPad Air it looks as though it is now possibly a viable option for me to replace my aging MacBook Pro. I essentially only use my laptop for photographs and music. My photo collection is about 11GB in size when they are in their original format outside of iPhoto. (iPhoto bloats it up to 33GB). My music collection is miniscule and we're talking only about 2GB in size, as it's only stuff I have purchased from the iTunes Store, so I know I can listen to this whenever I want to by re-downloading specific albums or tracks with "Purchases in the Cloud." At the moment I think the Macbook Pro is more than I actually need for what I use it for. Things like document creation etc. isn't an issue for me as I've used pages previously on my laptop and my documents are iCloud synced.
For me, I'd be looking at 64GB or 128GB capacity, as I use a Sony NEX-6 DSLR so the files as JPEG are large. I'm not one to keep every single photo I have taken, I'm kind of "minimalist" so out of say 400 photos I'd only keep 100 of the best ones.
I have read that some people have used services such as Dropbox for additional cloud storage, but I'm looking at using a networked hard drive that supports iOS so I can back up my photos to a physical drive at home should anything detrimental happen to the iPad (if I did get one).
I'm curious to hear if anyone has gone down the route of replacing their laptop or even desktop with a high-capacity iPad, and hear how they've got on with it. This is becoming a more frequently asked question after researching the vast spaces of the Internet, but there are no answers specific for my needs!
Message was edited by: C.Moore - Spelling & grammar corrections.

An iPad is a great device, but it's no computer replacement. It lacks the file sharing/structure that comptuers have and the ability to easily get files onto/off it without the internet.
That said, if you still have your desktop and use it for most of the computing work and basically just want a photo viewer, check your e-mail device, then it may work for you.
The networked harddrive will be the hard part. Since the iPad lacks a file manager anything you use on it must have an app so that you can access it. And that app also must be allowed to 'send' your files to another app. So that may be what you really need to research. The ability and ease of using a network drive to do the file sharing you want.

Mag Safe power cord sparks when connected or disconnected--whereupon the MacBook Pro 13'' dumps date and time, and all passwords, plus any/all unsaved information.

I purchased my MacBook Pro 13" from the Apple Store in Tucson, AZ, in mid-January. Since then, every time the Mag-Safe cord is jostled, not even disconnected, sparks fly from the power terminal on the computer, the computer shuts down, and dumps its passwords, as well as the date and time.
Any work in progress is also lost.
I work overseas, and Apple's advice was to give them my credit card number, await shipment of a new power supply and cord, and then, when I return the old power supply and cord, i'd receive a credit. That won't work, as packages from the US to my location take weeks if they arrive at all. There is no Apple Store within a reasonable distance. Or, Apple suggests, when I'm home on leave in mid-June, I should bring the computer to the Apple Store for repair--I have only days in which to do that, but I suppose I'll need to try. My concern is that I'll need to return overseas without my computer and won't be able to retrieve it for months, until my next leave.
This issue shows up elsewhere online. Is there a short in the power terminal in the computer, or on the Mag-Safe power cord, or within the computer itself? It's a known issue, thus I wonder why it hasn't been fixed.

Odd, but here's a copy of Page 1 of the links I got:
Apple Portables: Troubleshooting MagSafe adapters26 May 2011 ... If the spark comes from somewhere other than the blades of the plug, .... Apple Portables: Reducing cable strain on your MagSafe power ...
support.apple.com › Support - Cached
Apple - Support - Discussions - Magsafe sparked when plugging into ...
2 posts - 2 authors - Last post: 22 FebI plugged my magsafe adapter into my macbook pro (mid 2010 model i think ...
discussions.apple.com › ... › Power and Batteries on a MacBook Pro - Cached
Mag Safe power cord sparks when...: Apple Support Communities6 Jun 2011 ... Mag Safe power cord sparks when connected or disconnected ...
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15350172
Show more results from apple.com
Apple power brick sparks lawsuit • The Register
- 4:52am6 May 2009 ... Apple power brick sparks lawsuit ... Apple, for its part, made the MagSafe one of the featured, um, features of the MacBook Pro when it ...
www.theregister.co.uk/2009/05/06/apple_magsafe_lawsuit/ - Cached - Similar
My MagSafe sparks everytime - Philippine Mac Users Group
10 posts - 6 authors - Last post: 31 Mar 2008Guys, I seem to have a problem, well you see my MagSafe sparks everytime I plug it into a power source. I'm experiencing this problem at ...
www.philmug.ph › ... › Mobile Macs › Archives - Cached - Similar
@apple MagSafe failure sparking all over the place, not recalled ...1 Jan 2011 ... ryanol: @apple MagSafe failure sparking all over the place, not recalled? Not repairable 79 bucks later #applefail another design fail for ...
constantlycomplaining.com/.../@apple-magsafe-failure-sparking-all-over-place,-not-recalled%3F-not-repairable-79-bucks-later- - Cached
Great Northern Insurance Company sues Apple over fire-causing MagSafe2 Dec 2010 ... Over the past few years, Apple has been on the receiving end of more ... indicating that Apple's MagSafe adapters were prone to sparking and ...
www.edibleapple.com/great-northern-insurance-company-sues-apple-over-fire-causing-magsafe-adapter/ - Cached
Amazon.com: Apple MagSafe 60W Power Adapter for MacBook MA538LL/A ...Genuine Apple 60W MagSafe Power Adapter for MacBook A1184 · 3.9 out of 5 stars (11) .... like it was burning.. the covering on the cord melted off.. sparked ...
www.amazon.com › ... › Laptop Battery Chargers - Cached - Similar
Insurance company claims Apple's 'dangerous' MagSafe started fire ...
40 posts - 29 authors - Last post: 30 Nov 2010A newly filed lawsuit claims that Apple's MagSafe charger, ... Apple to heating, burning and sparking problems with its MagSafe adapters," ...
forums.appleinsider.com › Future Apple Hardware - Cached
Spark it up!!! "Apple announces Magsafe out of warranty ...
3 posts - 3 authors - Last post: 19 Aug 2008Info.: "This one concerns faulty Magsafe power adaptors that shipped with MacBook (13-inch Late 2006), MacBook (13-inch), ...
forums.macresource.com/read.php?1,546534,546743 - Cached

Is there any way to restore data from an external drive to another external drive without using the macbook pro you backed up?

Is that I sold my macbook pro an the person who bought it needs it quickly so I have an external drive but it is not portable so I bought a portable external drive but it may take a while to arrive so I backed up my data with the external drive that I have in my house but I would like to know if I can restore my data to the new external drive without the macbook pro and just with the external drive of my house to the portable external drive.
Thank you

No, that's not possible. A computer is required in order to effect such a transfer. Connect both drives to your computer. You can use Disk Utility to clone one drive to the other. Be sure you first partition and format the new drive:
Drive Partition and Format
1. Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Apply button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Security button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
Steps 4-6 are optional but should be used on a drive that has never been formatted before, if the format type is not Mac OS Extended, if the partition scheme has been changed, or if a different operating system (not OS X) has been installed on the drive.
Clone using Restore Option of Disk Utility
1. Open Disk Utility in the Utilities folder.
2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
4. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag
it to the Destination entry field.
5. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to
the Source entry field.
6. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Destination means the new external drive. Source means the old external drive.

How much hard drive do I need on the Macbook Pro?

I am buying a Macbook Pro 13" to use for email, internet, word processing and photo editing (in raw and jpeg). It comes wtih 500 or 750 GB Seriesl ATA hard drive which is way more hard drive than I need. I will keep most of my photos on an external hard drive and in a cloud and retain about a thousand photos on the Macbook's hard drive at a time for viewing and processing. I would like to upgrad to the Solid State hard drive but want to choose the least amount of hard drive that would be sufficient for the applications I would like to run and the realtively small amount of photos I want to store on the Macbook Pro. Do you think this would be sufficient? Is the solid state hard drive so much better than the serieal ata hard drive that it would be a good investment?

The downside of moving a lot of your storage to an external hard drive is that then you need a second external hard drive on which to back the first one up, and you need to remember to actually DO the backups regularly. I greatly prefer to have a large enough internal drive to store all my files, just because it makes backing them all up so much easier (and therefore more likely to be done often).
As for the downside of SSDs, do they need any more downside than costing several times more per GB of storage than hard drives? Particularly when they're still in their early childhood, are still improving by leaps and bounds, and better SSDs will probably cost half or less than half as much per GB a year from now as they do today? There's more than enough downside to discourage me from buying an SSD now. Thanks, but I'll wait for prices to come down, sizes to increase, the limited-write-cycles problem to be addressed on Macs, and SSDs' long-term reliability to be more definitively confirmed. And frankly, I just don't care whether a file takes half a second or three seconds to open. I can afford to wait 20 or 30 seconds a day.

Have just installed Mavericks and restarted the MacBook Pro. That was 3 hours ago and after logging in, I got my wallpaper and dock, but none of my desktop icons, just the spinning coloured wheel. It's been like that for 2 hours. Is this normal? What shou

Have just installed Mavericks and restarted the MacBook Pro. That was 3 hours ago and after logging in, I got my wallpaper and dock, but none of my desktop icons, just the spinning coloured wheel. It's been like that for 2 hours. Is this normal? What should I do, please?
I tried holding the on/off switch down to make it shut down, but when I turned it back on again, the same thing happened and none of the keys etc makes any difference.
HELP!!!! Please.

No, what you're experiencing is not normal.
Try booting whilst holding down the Shift key - this will allow you to boot into Safe Mode, disabling third-party kernel extensions, etc. Your Mac will be slow to boot and will operate sluggishly. That's normal. If you can get in using Safe Mode then you have some start-up item that doesn't play well with Mavericks.
Call back,
Clinton

I have formatted the macbook pro 13,now i see 150GB drive and 350GB drive is not seen,pl advise to recover the 350GB and make single hard disk without partition

i have formatte the macbook pro 13 as it was slow and with boot camp,at the time of format sesstion stopped at 61% and was asking 6 hours to
complete.this was for 24 hrs on condtion so i skipped and now i find only 150 gb reserved for boot camp,where 350 allocated for mac is missing
pl advise the solution
i wish to install maverick so i started this on my 10.6.8 verstion macbook
thaks and regards
Dr srinivas

Use the trackpad to scroll, thats what it was designed for. The scroll bars automatically disappear when not being used and will appear if you scroll up or down using the trackpad.
This is a user-to-user forum and most people will post on here if they have problems. You very rarely get people posting to say there update went smooth. The fact is the vast majority of Mountain Lion users will not be experiencing any major problems with the OS, or maybe with apps which are not compatible, but thats hardly Apple's fault if developers don't update their apps.

Can't get my 30" Apple LCD at full res with the MacBook Pro Retina

Hey
I've been through a lot of posts and I can't seem to find a solution. I have a 30" Apple LCD monitor but the highest resolution I can get out of it through the MacBook Pro Retina is 1280 x 800. Any suggestions? I have tried holding down option while clicking the scale radio button, no luck.

iPhoto updates through 'software update', not the App Store.

Does the macbook pro have a password protect feature?

i'm debating whether or not I need the Kensington ComboSaver Notebook Lock for college. if the macbook pro has a password-protect feature... maybe i don't need the lock

How would they know there was a password? Are you hoping to be able to say, "Excuse me, sir, but please don't steal my laptop, it's password protected." A thief wouldn't care, even if they slowed down to listen... they'd just erase your hard drive and sell the machine. (Or maybe not even erase the hard drive.)
Password protection is possible on many levels, some more secure than others, but none will discourage theft. Password protection's role is to protect against things ranging from casual snooping to determined spying, and the method used determines what can be protected against. For true data security, you must use encryption.
However, if you're looking to keep your laptop from getting stolen, you need to simply keep it close, or locked up when not adequately close. A security cable would be a good investment for leaving a computer unattended in a dorm room or apartment.

Does the macbook pro gives a slight electrical shock when charging?

When the Macbook Pro is charging, I can feel a little electricity in my fingertips. Unfotunately, I don't have a three prong outlet, just two. Either way, I think this was not supposed to be. Anyone can share some answers?
Thanks,
Muriel

You need to use a proper ground plug (third one), if there is a electrical short the metal case can conduct deadly electricity right into your body.
However the Mac uses low voltage DC current and the deadly stuff is all behind the power brick, but the deadly stuff can come from another means with other equipement.
What your likely feeling is the equalization of electrons between your body and the metal case, something your doing is reducing your bodyy's electrons and your MBP has spare ones so they transfer and you can feel this sometimes.
If the difference is built up enough, then you get a nice zap, that's how lightning works.

The Low-Down on the MacBook Pro

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for