The Mac Pro appears to be very slow.

At least according to some testing I've done with Photoshop. The MacBook Pro is looking really good though. Can anyone explain this:
http://mac.sandman.net/pages/StrangeBenchmarks

hello.
using the Raptor for a main hard drive and then using 500GB backups, as i do, is actually a really nice configuration. it ensures that you have enough space on your OS disc by creating the necessity to back up your drives after finishing a project.
as for the 250GB drive and 500GB drives you have, what are the model numbers? have you verified they are in fact Seagate drives?
REPLACE A DRIVE OR NOT?
well, if you are experiencing issues, and they get weirder as you work, this could be associated with heat. When you are working for a long time do you note that as more time that passes, the slower your machine gets? are save times unbearably slow? mine were. they aren't anymore.
for my part, i replaced the Seagate drives in our machine with drives that are designed to work under enterprise standards and i won't look back. the performance difference and gain in speed were worth every single penny.
if i may make a sugestion, try to zero out a hard drive you have in your machine after you've pulled all the data off it. my 150GB Raptor zeroed out in 24 minutes. Ned Snowing said he zeroed out his parents 750GB Seagate in under 4 hours. i would expect a 500GB drive working properly to be around 3 or so hours. not 9+ hours like my Seagates. the apple store rep told me it was normal to zero out in such a long time, however, i beg to differ. i think they see a lot of machines that DO zero out over long periods of time, however, i don't think this is normal, or acceptable. 10 hours is a write speed of 17MB/s. that is not up to spec. at all. but rather than argue, or make it a bad day for them or anyone else for that matter, i was just happy to find out what was wrong... finally!
this could also be the result of a slow fan speed for the hard drive bay. personally, i think my data is pretty important. i mean, my business runs on my machine. so, i wouldn't mind bumping up the fan speed for the hard drive bay and sacrifice a little bit of noise for that added air-flow.
in a laptop, well, i'd tear out whatever was in there and buy a 7200RPM 100GB WD drive and call it a day. my laptop is for mobile work, not for storage, so a large capacity is not a necessity for me. a 7200RPM drive will speed up a laptop using CS(WHATEVER) if you are saving all the time like i am.
good luck to you all

Similar Messages

My Mac Pro Internet is suddenly very SLOW

Hello,
Recently my Mac Pro suddenly started having problems with the internet. It takes about 30 seconds , sometimes more to load a page. It used to be instant. I am running Verizon Fios for internet with an attached Airport. It does not matter if I am connected or wireless. if I change the connection from one to the other it loads pages instantly for about 5 - 6 clicks and then goes back to being slow. I read some instructions that worked for others regarding similar issues. They said to go to system preferences and select Network and then to select something related to DNS from the left pane. When I go to system preferences there is no left pane or anything that says DNS. Any help would be appreciated. I an running 10.4.11...

Try following the instructions in this thread:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1729217&tstart=0
David

Hello ... I have a problem with a wifi connection speed on my mac pro ... the problem is that in one room the internet opening for the websites is extremely slow ... but when i move the mac pro somewhat to other location ... the internet speed increase

hello ....
my connection problem on my mac pro is :
that when i try to open a website on safari .... it delays ... and takes more than 30 seconds to open completely ...
but when i move the mac pro to another location ... its internet opening speeds up ....
also in one room ... web opening delays .... but on other rooms it is normal
so what can i do to solve this problem ....
Note : also when i hold it up and move in the same room ... the speed changes and somewhere speed up ... and in another location speed down ..
thanks for you all ...
Waiting for your support ... as quick as possible ...

WiFi signals get stronger the closer the machine is to the router and the less interference/blocking of the signal like via walls with metal in them or of thick concrete.
Since the signal emanates outwards in a sphere, your supposed to place the wireless router in a central location in the building so it covers all areas.
The power of the router also has a affect, if your router is old or something not that powerful like a Airport Express, it doesn't have the ability to filter out other signals or enough punch to get through walls etc. or cover a large area as effectively.
If you buy/have a powerful router of newer make and have issues where there is metal in the walls or thick concrete, then you can buy something like OpenMesh and by using Ethernet cables from the back of the router, extend the WiFi signal into other rooms and areas past the blockage.
https://www.open-mesh.com/

I have a belkin 7 adapter for additional USB slots for my Mac Pro. It was working well till just recently I am getting a message that says the usb port on the Mac Pro is shutting down due to a very high power drain. Then it shuts the usb port down.

I have a belkin 7 adapter for additional usb ports for my mac pro. It worked fine without problems till recently when the message regarding usb port drawing too much power and the computer shuts the port on the mac pro down. The strip comes with its own power supply adapter. The attachments are additional hard drives used as backups and independent data. Other than disconnecting it are there any fixes?

You're getting the message because you're exceeding the available current, probably as a result of bus-powered drives. The power sources for hubs are rather small. Try using drives with their own power supplies.

My mac OSX lion is now very slow, any idea why?

my mac OSX lion is now very slow, any idea why?

Things You Can Do To Resolve Slow Downs
If your computer seems to be running slower here are some things you can do:
Start with a visit to: OS X Maintenance - MacAttorney.
Boot into Safe Mode then repair your hard drive and permissions:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions Pre-Lion/Mountain Lion
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
Repair the Hard Drive - Lion/Mountain Lion
Boot from your Lion Recovery HD. When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Restart your computer normally and see if this has helped any. Next do some maintenance:
Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
For situations Disk Utility cannot handle the best third-party utility is Disk Warrior; DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible.
OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep. Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger. These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard or Lion and should not be installed.
OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive. As for virus protection there are few if any such animals affecting OS X. You can protect the computer easily using the freeware Open Source virus protection software ClamXAV. Personally I would avoid most commercial anti-virus software because of their potential for causing problems. For more about malware see Macintosh Virus Guide.
I would also recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX 2.4.3, or Cocktail 5.1.1 that you can use for periodic maintenance such as removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc.
For emergency repairs install the freeware utility Applejack. If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line. Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. There is no confirmation that this version also works with Lion.
When you install any new system software or updates be sure to repair the hard drive and permissions beforehand.
Get an external Firewire drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
1. Carbon Copy Cloner
2. Data Backup
3. Deja Vu
4. SuperDuper!
5. SyncTwoFolders
6. Synk Pro
7. Synk Standard
8. Tri-Backup
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on maintenance, optimization, virus protection, and backup and restore.
Additional suggestions will be found in Mac maintenance Quick Assist.
Referenced software can be found at CNet Downloads or MacUpdate.
Additional Hints
Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity as free space.
Add more RAM. If your computer has less than 2 GBs of RAM and you are using OS X Leopard or later, then you can do with more RAM. Snow Leopard and Lion work much better with 4 GBs of RAM than their system minimums. The more concurrent applications you tend to use the more RAM you should have.
Always maintain at least 15 GBs or 10% of your hard drive's capacity as free space, whichever is greater. OS X is frequently accessing your hard drive, so providing adequate free space will keep things from slowing down.
Check for applications that may be hogging the CPU:
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder. Select All Processes from the Processes dropdown menu. Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order. If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time, then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar. Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process. See if that helps. Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Often this problem occurs because of a corrupted cache or preferences file or an attempt to write to a corrupted log file.

Question about the Mac Pro's Video Abilities

Hi, I'm strongly considering buying a new Mac. I've looked at the iMacs, but I am more used to Tower PCs. The Mac Pro's design and expandability is what I am used to. My question I have is concerning the graphics ability of the Mac Pro. Currently, I have a HP vs17e LCD monitor and an old Envision EN910 CRT monitor. I am very pleased with both of these monitors. Recently, I hooked up the HP monitor to this old 400MHz G3 8MB Video iMac, and it looked really good except the text sometimes looked a little blurry. I figure that the 8MB video might have had something to do with that. I do not care that much about widescreen displays or high performance $700 displays. I like to use simple, old style monitors. Would I be able to use either one of these screens on the Mac Pro with a GeForce 7300 card? Also, my next question is concerning the use of a TV as a secondary display. Our TV is a big Toshiba that has the old style CRT format. It accepts the yellow video connector and another connector that I think is called the S-Video (black connector). Can I buy adapters that will allow me to use the TV as a second display?

I would venture to say that if the monitor has a digital input capability, then the cable that would be used, is not like the output from the Mac. But, if you want to use the digital to analog adapter that comes with the Mac Pro, or is a purchased item for some of the lower priced Macs, the monitor will work as an analog VGA monitor. The gal that cuts my hair was telling me the horror story abount how they had to spend $200 to connect their Apple Cinema Display to their PC. I am pretty sure you won't have to spend that kind of money. So, if your monitor will accept an analog input, it should work. Many LCD monitors were only analog when they first came out years ago. I took a short look at yours. It appears to only have an analog input. My Mac Pro manual says to use the adapter if you want to hook up an analog VGA monitor. You can verify this at an Apple store before you purchase. I don't see any issues, but it is always best to "get it from the horses mouth".
Michael

Have a still folder with a question mark and OS on external HDD isn't loading onto the Mac Pro

Good Morning....... I'm having an issue with this Mac Pro I've recently purchased that came with an 500GB HDD and I added an 2TB HDD also, but it never had an OS on it and when you power on the Mac Pro, you'll get a still folder with a question mark on it. I am very determined to get this situation corrected!!! I had got a copy of Snow Leopard on a blank DVD from a friend of mine but nothing had changed or occurred when I put it in the optical drive & I even saved Maverick installation on an external HDD; it read the drive when I held down the option key during the startup chime, I choose the external because that’s the only volume it shown on the screen; nothing else!!! No sign of the copied disk, the two HDDs that's in the Mac Pro, just the external HDD with the OS on it; I choose the external with Maverick on it but it still doesn't read and then a still folder with the question mark appears..... Can someone please help & save me PLEASE?????????

Buy a retail copy of Snow Leopard, then we can "chat" and get you with a system installed.

My mac pro seems to be running slower today than it was friday

my mac pro seems to be running slower today than it was friday, i purchased it used an don't have disc or password

The first thing to do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. How you do it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It is not safe to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1a. If you don't own another Mac
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for some MacBook Air models. For early MBA models, you may need a USB optical drive or Remote Disc. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To boot from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then reboot and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should boot into Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
Some models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you may not be able to reinstall 10.6 even from the original discs, and Internet Recovery may not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
1b. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to create a bootable USB device and boot the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can boot from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
2. Partition and install OS X
If you see a lock screen when trying to boot from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In thePartition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
Then run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
3. Other issues
If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information.

Is the MAC PRO right for me?

I am in the market for a new MAC since I need to upgrade to CS5 and my old MAC is not INTEL Based, which I found out I need for CS5 and Snow Leopard to work. I would like something at least similar to my old MAC but with enough juice that it keeps me moving and up-to-date. I currently have a PowerPC G5, Processor: Dual 2 GHz, Memory: 2.5 GB DDR SRAM (2004 Model). It would need to be able to run CS5 (InDesign, Illustrator, PhotoShop, Dreamweaver, Bridge & QZID version 5). I am a Graphic Designer mainly creating print design with a small amount of web design such as photo galleries etc. Would the MAC PRO Quad-Core or 8-Core be a suitable replacement? See link: http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/shop_mac/family/mac_pro?mco=MTg5MTY5NDQ
I appreciate any suggestions you can offer.

One of the big differences between a MacPro and all other desktop Macs is the abiltiy with a MacPro to add fast/big external storage.
An iMac, a Mini, MacBook or even the MacBookPro, all have limitations in that regard. The MacPro is able to take a PCIe card for very fast and diverse types of external storage from simple and robust eSATA storage on up through SAS, hardware RAID, Fiber Channel and so on. The sky is the limit.
The afore mentioned iMac, MacBook or Mini all have Firewire as the storage limitation. Or USB, except I would never recommend USB over Firewire. Firewire 800 is slower than a single hard drive. So if you move a lot of data files you will find that Firewire is a performance choke point.
MacBookPro has Thunderbolt, and it will one day fullfil the promise for fast externals storage plus other stuff - and at reasonable prices. Choosing a MBP is a viable alternate as we start to see products come out for Thunderbolt. Going to have to wait for Thunderbolt to go mainstream before much in the way of choices.
I personally recommend MacPros for photographers and videographers with large databases. Also, with multiple internal drive bays it is easiest to maintain a true backup of every drive, including/especially your boot drive, when you can just drop another drive inside.
Rick

Hi , after the update my macbook has become very slow , is anyone else also facing the same issue????

After update my macbook takes lot of time to start and shut down , its kind of annoying and suddenly it also changed the system date n time .

Try:
Mac Mini (Core i5)is very slow, not very responsive.
BTW, this is the Mac Pro desktop forum

Can the Mac Pro run Window XP (booth camp) and be used as a MAc OS server

Hi There
Can the Mac Pro run Window XP (booth camp) and be used as a MAc OS server in the same time?
I am a small business and I was thinking of using the new mac pro for a new workstation on my studio and to also use it as a server for 5 work others stations. Is that possible? Or I am asking a bit to much work load to do for the Mac Pro?
Can the Mac Pro can run under Window XP and Autocad and still be accessed by other workstation whilst working on the cad software? Is booth camp will slow the machine like Virtual PC?
IS the MAc Pro can manage file hosting website with PHP and mySQL capabilites?
CHARLES
MAC PRO Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Great question, but it appears the answer is no (at this time); they promise to work on it immediately. Check this thread at parallels.
http://forum.parallels.com/thread3659.html
iMAC G5 20" - 2GB RAM - 150 GB Hard Drive Mac OS X (10.4.6) Also MacMini & MacBook Pro Intel Core Duo - OS X & WIN2K

My MacBook pro continues to be very slow after downloading Yosemite. It keeps referring to MacBook Pro (2). It's like there are two version running side by side. Any ideas?

My MacBook pro continues to be very slow after downloading Yosemite. It keeps referring to MacBook Pro (2). It's like there are two version running side by side. Any ideas?
It is now running Yosemite 10.10.1. I seem to have plenty of memory but the machine still runs slower than before installing Yosemite. Excel has a very noticeable lag when opening and loading files.

Hi,
Thanks for the reply. I ran through the various steps as suggested including resetting the SMC.
I would say that there was about a 10% improvement. Although one of the icons still bounced for the count of 40
I'm still wondering why from the About this Mac, then System Report. it refers to my name MacBook Pro (2).
All the various problems seem to have started with the upgrade to Yosemite.

How do I get the Mac Pro (2013) to recognize 4K monitors correctly?

I have a 2013 Mac Pro, Six core, 32GB ram, FirePro 700s, 1TB storage, OS X 10.10. It's connected to a Samsung UN50HU6950FXZA 50" UHD TV via HDMI. The system info recognizes this monitor as a 120.5-inch with 7680 by 4050 resolution. WOW. In the Displays Preferences, this resolution shows up as "best for display". The actual resolution of the monitor is 3840 by 2160, but the closest scaled resolution shown is 3840 by 2025. This actually almost works ok, but requires setting the monitor to "fit" instead of 16 x 9; otherwise the image is slightly too wide for the screen. This happens whether the monitor is connected to the computers USB port or to a Thunderbolt port with a Mini DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter. I've tried every combination. I've also booted from a different system disk, reset PRAM and power manager multiple times, used various combinations of monitors, disconnected all peripherals, run hardware diagnostics, everything.
I tried to use the computer with a Seiki 39-inch UHD monitor and it also showed up with these weird resolutions sometimes on startup, maybe once in five times. I thought it was a monitor problem, so tried the Samsung.
There's more, too. The machine doesn't play well with multiple monitors if one of the monitors is a 4K., it is not happy when I uses Spaces with a 4K monitor. In some cases, Final Cut Pro or Premiere CC will get jerky playback, the mouse pointer develops trails, other symptoms that look like graphics card failure. Only a restart corrects these issues. When the computer wakes from sleep and a 4K monitor is used, the application windows do not come back to the same place on the screen; with 2 monitors, the windows may come back on the wrong screen or the menu may be on the wrong screen, or both.
I wonder if anyone else is having similar problems. I have been on chat and phone with Apple support multiple times over this issue doing screen sharing and various diagnostics. While they keep trying and escalating, no real progress has been made. I bought the Mac Pro to be able to work with 4K video and actually display it. So far it works, but there are lots of compromises and work-arounds. Apple has suggested bringing the machine to the Apple Store, but since it works fine with smaller monitors, that probably won't help. I finally got a support person to say they may need to try on-site service. I have a call scheduled for Monday--so maybe something will happen.
The Pro is a great machine, but this stuff has been driving me crazy for months now. It's a great machine that just isn't ready for 4K yet

The available display proprieties are based on information that the monitor/TV sends to the Mac. It appears it is not sending the correct info.
You said " This happens whether the monitor is connected to the computers USB port or to a Thunderbolt port with a Mini DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter.".
I am confused about the reference to USB.
Does the TV have a displayport or mini displayport input, that is best to use.
Try using the free Display Menu app from the Mac app store. I have to use that to get 3840x2160 (native resolution) on my Dell monitor)

Does anyone have any info re 3.5mm jack microphones on the Mac Pro?

Please, don't refer me to the manufacturer...am working on that, in the meantime i'm looking for anyone that might have OTHER information or suggestions regarding this issue...
Bought a GE PC Microphone, a very simple on with a 3.5MM jack. The package specifically says "Compatible with Windows, Mac, and Linux operating systems"
I plug it into the Audio Line In on the back of my Pro (just purchased barely a few weeks ago) and the nothing happens...no sound is registered or recorded.
I've gone to preferences pane and selected "Line In" as opposed to "Digital Line In", and nothing....
Is there some silly thing I'm over looking. When I read the Mac Pro User Manual regarding that particular port it refers to use of:
" Analog audio line-in port
Connect self-powered microphones, MP3 and CD players, and other devices with analog
capability"
The mic is simple, has no power source, only the 3.5MM jack...should it not work?
Any help (other than the already perfectly obvious contact the mfr of the mic, or plain old return/exchange the mic" will be greatly appreciated. If that's what i have to do ,it's what i'd have to do, but i'd like some validation that there is NOT anything I am missing before doing so.
Thanks!

Hi JamilMereck,
first of: you can edit previous posts in a time-frame of some minutes (haven't measured it ...).
After that they become non-editable.
I admit I have used microphones some years back with and without PCs (have switched to Macs 2.5 years ago).
But I always had the mics connected to a mixing desk, which provided Phantom Power.
Since I gave up my 'Singing Career' (wasn't good enough) I also abandoned the use of microphones.
To your questions:
It might be that PCs with specified Microphone-In ports are also providing power to them or the microphones themselves do not need any power.
And the 'compatible with...' refers to the usage on computers in general.
The iMic from Griffin works with OSX 10.5 (scroll down on the webpage to 'Product Compatibility' the left icon symbolizes OSX 10.5).
As said above, I am no longer up-to-date in usage of microphones, but when you want to use a microphone with the standard connector you have to get either a microphone preamp or a mixer.
If you use the mic only (really only) with your Mac Pro, you might wanna look for USB-connected mics from Samson or Audio Technica for example.
And don't get upset, I understand you fully and any kind of 'insult' is for the manufacturers and not for me
Stefan

Is it possible to upgrade the Mac Pro with SCSI/SAS drives?

Hi guys I am considering to move on to a Mac Pro from my old PC.
The Mac Pro enclosure is quite unique in its hard drive holders as no cables are used and all drives are connected with a plugin mechanism.
So I am curious if that will allow me to upgrade to a SCSI/SAS storage system which requires cable connections between drives and the SCSI/SAS card on the PCI-E slot. I dont know if this will be possible with the Mac Pro enclosure.
Has anyone tried to do this？
Btw is there any Ultra320 or SAS(preferably) interface card available for Mac OS X?

The connectors for SATA drives can be used with SAS drives. However, the controller needs to be SAS compatible. I have never installed a SAS drive in the Mac Pro bay to see what happens. If some one has a SAS drive and wants to try this I would be interested in the results.
My guess is that the Mac Pro would not see the drive.
Areca sells the Mac Pro PCIe bootable ARC-1680 SAS controller in several configurations. This controller allows the user to utilize SAS or SATA hard drives connected to the card. The ARC-1680x comes with two external mini SAS connectors that can support eight direct connect hard drives or up to 128 devices (in theory) when used with SAS expanders.
The ARC-1680LP has one internal mini SAS port and one external mini SAS port. I looked at the Mac Pro internal SATA connectors and they can unscrew from the frame but there is only about 1/2" of clearance in that area of the case. In addition, I would want the hot swap bays to still operate and I did not see an easy way to patch into the existing SATA connectors. It would be nice if the Mac Pro factory connectors used snap on SATA connector on the back of the backplane so that users could interface the 4 SATA bays with an internal PCie controller. However, its hard wired in the existing configuration. With the new Mac Pro PCIe RAID 5 card on the market there must be alternative connectors that allow this type of installation to work properly.
Based on the ease at which the Areca SAS controller can be added as an external using the ARC-1680x I went with that option. I am using it with eight direct connect SATA hard drives now. I plan to expand the storage by adding a SAS expander in the form of a hub or an enclosure with SAS capabilities. I have been looking at a 16 bay SAS enclosure but I am not sure how loud it will be
Details on the ARC-1680 can be found here:
http://www.areca.com.tw/products/pcietosas1680series.htm
Its very cool to have SAS or SATA capability along with a bootable card that can support tons of hard drives and RAID levels 0, 1,1E, 3, 5, 6, 10, 30, 50, 60 or JBOD . I booted the Mac Pro with a 2TB Mac OS X 10.4.10 RAID 6 volume and ran Xbench. It shows a 400MB/sec. hard drive setup and raises the overall Xbench score substantially.
While I doubt I will boot the Mac Pro from the RAID 6 volume much, it is very cool that that function is available. This is the only PCIe host adapter I have found with boot capabilities besides Apples new $999 4 port SATA internal card. SAS has lots of expansion capabilities. Users that want pretty much unlimited hard drive connectivity will enjoy the new ARC-1680x.
Have fun!

The Mac Pro appears to be very slow.

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