Thermal grease replacement in G62-B21ER Notebook.

Hi!
I have just replaced a new thermal grease in my laptop G62-B21ER to reduce the temperature of my GPU and CPU, and cleaned the radiator from dust. So, that is funny because my laptop didn't switch off before, but after this replacement it has begun! I used good thermal grease and it shouldn't switch off but temperature is about 90 (C) ~ 194 (F) in gaming. There is 3 processors that touch thermal-cooling system and I've put the thermal grease on each proc.
So laptop swithes off now in Assassins Creed Brotherhood and hangs in NFS Hot Pursuit but it didn't switch off beffore cleaning. OS:Windows 7 x86, Radeon HD 5470,Intel Pentium P6100 @ 2.00 Ghz.
What did I do wrong? Help me, please!
P.S. Sorry for my English if it's bad

Hi,
Welcome to the HP Forum!
Jdiablo7 wrote:
Hi!
I have just replaced a new thermal grease in my laptop G62-B21ER to reduce the temperature of my GPU and CPU, and cleaned the radiator from dust. So, that is funny because my laptop didn't switch off before, but after this replacement it has begun! I used good thermal grease and it shouldn't switch off but temperature is about 90 (C) ~ 194 (F) in gaming. There is 3 processors that touch thermal-cooling system and I've put the thermal grease on each proc.
So laptop swithes off now in Assassins Creed Brotherhood and hangs in NFS Hot Pursuit but it didn't switch off beffore cleaning. OS:Windows 7 x86, Radeon HD 5470,Intel Pentium P6100 @ 2.00 Ghz.
What did I do wrong? Help me, please!
P.S. Sorry for my English if it's bad
Turn the notebook off and begin disassembly again.
The instructions at ArcticSilver are what you need to follow. It could be that you put on too much or didn't remove all of the old thermal interface material.
regards,
erico
Kind regards,
erico
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can i replace a p320 cpu with a p360 in a g62-220ca notebook pc ???

Redkryptonite wrote:
can i replace a p320 cpu with a p360 in a g62-220ca notebook pc ???
Hi,
It's hard to say. This service guide says that the P360 supports only 1.2 models only. That is hard to guess which one it is..
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c02641795.pdf
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T60 replacement fan - thermal grease

My T60 fan started whining so IBM sent me a replacement fan and a tube of thermal grease - but the fan already has thermal grease on it.
The grease is actually a 5 x 7 matrix of 35 small dots of thermal grease. Everything I have ever read about applying thermal grease says that it should be applied in a very thin, smooth layer and these thermal grease dots don't seem consistent with that at all.
1. Should I flatten the dots and spread them out thinly? Or does IBM expect us to just install it as is - maybe the pressure applied upon installation is supposed to flatten the grease out appropriately?
2. Should I have some pure alcohol handy to clean off all of the old grease before replacing this fan?
Solved!
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eetolaa, welcome to the forum,
the fans come with thermal paste already on them, all you need to do is remove the thin clear plastic from the grey thermal pads. The grey pads are thermal plastic and come attached to the fan.
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Replacing thermal grease ok?

Got two lightnings 7970 BE's, damn fine things.
Both cards hash fine, but I won't go into detail, apparently most people condemn miners.
Now, the second card runs as 71c, ok in my opinion.
The first card, however, runs at 78c, a bit too hot considering fanspeed is also 100% ( not nice for the lifetime of the card ).
So I was wondering, how can I reduce the temperature?
First thing that came to mind is replacing thermal grease.
I'm not really a noob to this, I've installed an Acc. Xtreme on a 480 before and mounted a VF3000A on a 5870, I'd consider myself experienced in cooler replacement / removal and whatnot.
Now, will this void the warranty of the cards? That'd really suck since these bad boys are just over two months old.
And, well, these are just over two months old, would I see a decrease in temps? Even 2c will matter.
Regards,
Nos.

Quote from: flobelix on 08-January-14, 04:05:30
There could very well be a difference of 2°C if quality paste is used. The factory paste is not too good.
Replacing will not void the warranty. Only damaging the card while trying would. The sticker is meant to scare off those trying to careless unmount the cooler. If you need a confirmation from your local MSI branch contact them: >>How to contact MSI.<<
Registering for my local MSI ( NL ) is a total mess, I can't register.
That's why I tried asking it here first.
Thanks for the fast reply though! I'll give it a shot.
Bonus question, if you know the answer.
I got three different brands of Thermal Grease.
Noctua ( came with NH-D14 )
Scythe ( came with Mugen 2 )
Arctic ( came with freezer 14 )
Which one of them would you recommend?
All reviews tend to lead to the same conclusion: Results are compareable.

Replace Thermal grease

Which thermal grease is suitable for my laptop dv6 6154tx ? Which thermal grease is used by Hp company? please suggest me a good product.
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All thermal grease is acceptable. It is more an issue of how it is applied than the brand of the compound you use. The trick is to cover just the processor core as thin as possible while providing full coverage but not slopping over. A drop the size of a BB is usually about right. If you can find it my favorite brand is Arctic Silver with the highest possible metal content which is usually noted on the label. But even the inexpensive "ketchup pack" white stuff will work fine.
If this is "the Answer" please click "Accept as Solution" to help others find it.

Thermal compound replacement, RESULTS and PICTURES

YOU CAN HAVE A MACBOOK PRO THAT ISN'T SCORCHING HOT!!
(note that this will NOT fix any whine or moo; they are unrelated problems)
Here's how.
My Mother's Macbook Pro (Or Cookbook, if you will) Arrived a week ago today. I played around with it to make sure everything is alright because my mother doesn't know how to check for things like dead pixels, bad ram, or cough improperly applied thermal compound.
One of the first things I noticed after turning on the new MBP is how totally sweet it is! The second thing I noticed is how freaking hot it is: I recoiled in pain from the Fn key bar the first time I touched it. Disappointed, I started searching the web and sure enough, pretty much everyone who owns one is complaining that it's too hot for comfortable use.
Apple calling this a "notebook" instead of a "laptop" is a total semantic cop-out. It's a PORTABLE COMPUTER and I must be able to trust it around my dogs, children, valuables without the MagSafe burning up or the battery swelling and bursting.
I don't have objective figures for just how hot it was, but it was right about at my pain threshold above and below the belt, and sometimes over it. I couldn't hold my hand to it for more than a few seconds. In particular the area to the left of the touchpad was of concern. I do have before-and-after figures of the CPU and HDD; I invite yourselves to look at them:
Before After (Temps in degrees C, ambient 25 C)
50-60 26-35 CPU (idle)
76-85 56-65 CPU (load)
41 33 HDD
In particular the HDD figures are a great relief. HDDs are notoriously sensitive to temperature and even a few degrees C can cut their lifetimes significantly. Furthermore the area is now cool to the touch and I can once again rest my left palm on it without discomfort. The ranges are due to the fact that the sensor inside the core duo is flaky. In 5 seconds it can run anywhere from +-5 to +-10. Nevertheless it is accurate enough for our purposes. Below are photos, procedure, and a rough outline of test methodologies:
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641589
Here's the idle scenario before the procedure. The computer has been on for hours (days really) and I'm doing the work I normally do on it. TextEdit is open (to a little project I'm working on) with firefox and the temperature monitor. Alt-tab is to show that those are the only programs running. CPU temp is dead at 50 C. This is INSANE for an idle figure on ANY computer; desktop, laptop, "notebook" or otherwise.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641590
The operation area and stress test. To stress the ATI chip I've jacked up the resolution, run a couple of quartz programs, SNES9x (a hardware emulator; the software shown is called "Energy Breaker") with a brutal multitasking OpenGL hardware renderer, and Google Earth. To get the CPU going I have Adobe's Lightroom processing thumbnails, and again SNES9x. For various I/O I have two shells executing yes > /dev/null, a USB mouse plugged in, and all the HDD access from lightroom. I figure it paints a pretty good picture of the "worst case scenario" of hardware stress for a laptop like this.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641591
The CPU core(s) is at 76 C. I should note that at this point, as hot as the CPU is, overall the case is really not much hotter than it was before. In other words, it's just as unacceptable.
At this point I turned her off and dug in. I used a howto from Ifixit to serve as my guide. The procedure went without surprises until I got all the way to the logic board.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641592
Dear lord!! That is an obscene amount of compound. It's casting a shadow over the rest of the board!! This gray gak is piled on so thick, it's no wonder the cooling system couldn't work effectively. It had even gotten all over components nowhere near the dies. That definitely cannot be good for their lifespan. Here's a shot of the heatpipe:
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641593
Terrible. Thermal compound has been squished out all over the place, including the chassis itself. This explains why it was getting so hot. A photo from the MBP service manual has been floating around the net, illustrating that this gross amount of compound is actually according to procedure.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641594
Clean as a whistle. After removing the bulk of the compound with q-tips I used ArctiClean 2-step process to emulsify the rest and remove it with paper towels. You can see it's not perfect but it's close enough for me. I'm not overclocking this thing; I just want to run it "in spec" and have it not burn me. At this point, the CPU dies and the heat pipe interfaces should have mirror finishes. It's an overclocker's dream, and Apple already did the work for me.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641595
This is how I applied Arctic Silver 5 to replace the compound I removed. Squeeze the tiniest little bit out of the syringe directly on to the die, and scrape it across with a flat edge (they recommend a razor blade but I just used a plastic ID card). Take the amount of compound you see on the Core Duo (on the right) and make a flat, even layer like the one you see on the ATI (left).
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641596
Turned it on and went straight for the hard stress test, after making sure everything was OK of course =) Wow! It reads 58 C in the screenshot, and doesn't go above 65C!! Moreover, there isn't even a bit of warmth above the Fn keys, and the HDD area is cool to the touch. I'd call this one a complete success. I'm idling right now and the temperature reads between 26 and 31C. Even the bottom is just slightly warm to the touch. Now I have a real laptop again!
So why did this happen?
There's a lot of confusion about the way the Macbook Pro cools itself. I admit it's confusing. Basically, Apple is shipping Macbook Pros with one cooling system, and replacing the thermal compound changes it into a very different system. Let me try to explain what I learned from digging around the hardware.
1. The built-in thermometer in the CPU is flaky. That's why you have to access it with a kernel extension and all kinds of hacks, and why Apple circumvented it completely in the cooling system. That's right: the MBP cooling system ignores the Core Duo temperature entirely.
2. The cooling system consists of a convective (my guess, I don't think anyone really knows what kind of) heatpipe which is in the base, directing heat out to two heatsinks which are then to be cooled by two fans if need be.
3. There are two temperature sensors. One is on the heatpipe itself, and the other one is on the chassis just next to the right fan. Probably the hardware monitors these temperatures and the differential between them to decide when to activate the fans and how long.
4. Behavior before the replacement procedure: The CPU core would get hot, hotter than I've ever seen a CPU go, at 80-85C. Most people confirm their MBPs also exhibit this. Where was this heat going? Well the fans didn't turn on until I put it at full load. Even when the fans did turn on, there wasn't much warm exhaust coming out of the vents at the back. The chassis heated up until it was unbearable, and most of the excess heat was being radiated away from it.
To sum up, the ineffective thermal interface between the CPU dies and the heat pipe was inhibiting heat from tripping the fan sensors. This explains why the fans didn't turn on until drastic temperatures were attained, and why the chassis got so hot. Essentially, the chassis was serving as a big heatsink for the CPU, which is the only reason it didn't overheat and shut down.
Effective, Apple, but not quite appropriate.
5. Behavior after the replacement procedure: The first thing you notice is that the fans scream from the second you turn the thing on. They aren't going full blast but pretty close to it. An effective thermal interface using an APPROPRIATE AMOUNT of AS5 (anything would do but I figured if I'm applying thermal compound, why not go for the authority) allows the heat to go straight from the cores into the heatpipe, tripping the sensor early and fast. The fans come on, I can feel hot air coming out the back, and the chassis now removed from the thermal equation is cool and comfortable again.
Of course, the thermal equation is different from before, and from the way Apple has tuned the fans to work from the factory configuration. This is more cooling than we probably need, and I foresee an update to Tiger allowing us to choose the thermal/noise tradeoff for ourselves.
Well, I hope that explains it, and I hope that those of you still suffering the abuses of your "in spec" MBP can take some hope from my findings, or are emboldened to go ahead and repeat the procedure yourself. I will post informative links here.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/85.1.0.html
http://www.arcticsilver.com/
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1864582 (This is where I learned of the thermal paste issue)
Remember if you ever open up your MBP to NOT BREAK ANYTHING and please, always read the instructions before you reach in. =)

methanol, my conclusion is that Apple's specifications for thermal grease application are technically sound. As a corollary, I put the postings claiming that isn't so in the Urban Myth category.
There's a lot of technical literature on design and manufacturing specifications for thermal grease use, the kind of literature that appears in professional technical publications and is written by engineers. That literature supports Apple's thermal grease specifications. Putting it another way, Apple's engineers have a lot more technical training and experience than the average hobbyist who is working from the directions that came with Arctic Silver.
Yes, my computer has the "messy" looking application of thermal grease. No, it isn't inappropriate and doesn't need to be modified, and Apple did not make a quality assurance/quality control mistake.
Posts about the thermal grease modification began appearing several months ago, followed by Hardware Monitor charts showing considerable differences in "before fix" and "after fix" temperatures. I found, however, that I could easily replicate those before and after charts, and my computer compared favorably with the "after fix" temperature charts. Why? There was no quality control on the generation of the charts. And of course some owners damaged their computers in the process of taking them apart and putting them back together. Not a good idea, in my opinion.
Painstaking manual application of thermal grease might result in an insignificant drop in CPU temperature, perhaps 2 or 3C. Trying that in a mass production situation would result in more CPU failures.
True, some people got very significant reductions of case temperatures. That will happen if the sensors are not working (broken connection) and the fans run full out.

HP G62-4350x Notebook PC Laptop

I have a problem with the laptop when I boot it up it goes to the Windows 7 boot screen and just stays there for a long time. It does NOT boot to the desktop.. I have run a test on the harddrive and came to be failed. My question is how do I replace the harddrive that has a preinstalled windows 7 on it ? I do however have windows 7 recovery disc for the laptop.. Please let me know. I am not sure which hard drive I am suppose to have either. the one that you exchange or replace? The old one is no good but still have windows built into it .. The recovery disc will not work.. Please help thanks

Hi
As per the specs the unit came with 320GB (5400RPM) SATA drive.
HP G62-435DX Notebook PC Product Specifications
Maintenance and Service Guide
Let us know how it goes!
"I work for HP."
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HP G62-b13SA Notebook - "Plugged in, not charging"

Hi,
I have an issue with charging my HP HP G62-b13SA Notebook PC (on Windows 7 Home Premium). I've noticed that when I plug in the adapter, the icon says 'plugged in, not charging'.
However, I notice that sometimes it will charge for between a few seconds to about a minute (when I first connect the charger) with the orange light showing before I get the 'not charging' message and the light turns blue.
I have had the laptop for nearly 3 years and recently had to purchase a replacement battery as the original had gone completely flat.
I've tried running the battery down and charging it, but no luck and the HP support assistant said the battery is ok
Thanks,
Jonathon

Hi @Lewistrick
Thank you for your query.
I grasp that until a few days ago your battery was working well but now it will not charge. You followed some suggestion in the forum but they did not help.
You ran the battery test and were informed you need to replace this one. You are concerned that the test may be faulty and that you do not need to replace it.
Here are two documents to help you understand battery life and provides an alternative method to test the battery to ensure the first test was correct.
HP Notebook PCs - Understanding Lithium-Ion and Smart Battery Technology
Battery information center.
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HP G62-222US Notebook PC

So I have a G62 and the hard drive failed on it. I went and purchased a replacement 500GB SATA hard drive, pulled the bad one out, put the new one... I also ordered the replacement recovery disks. When I go to the BIOS the drive is not seen, I pull the drive up, put it in my hard drive dock, and my machine see's it fine. I can format, blow the paritions away and no change.
I did some trolling and found that maybe this would help..
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareDownloadIndex?softwareitem=pv-80183-1&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en
I tried that, nogo. I am still getting the following message.
Reducer - Application close
[Info] No HDD
I even went and purchased another hard drive and tried it and no change, I am starting to run out of options, here, it already has the latest F29 bios. What am I missing here?

I am sorry but I can't help you with the recovery discs not working on your computer but I do have an alternative solution. If you can still read the 25-digit Windows product key on the Microsoft COA affixed to the bottom the computer, you can install Windows 7 Home Premium using this key. Please see "How to Install Windows 7 Without the Disc" for instructions on how to download Windows 7 SP1, create the installation media, and install Windows 7 SP1 using the 25 digit product key from the Microsoft COA on your computer. Using this method will not install any HP customizations or value-added software and you will have to manually install all needed drivers.
Here is the HP G62-222US Notebook PC Drivers page for the computer.
Links to Windows 7 SP1 can be found HERE and HERE.
Direct link to Windows 7 USB/DVD Download tool.
If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
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G62-144DX notebook does not start

Hi,
Out of nowhere, I had a problem with the wireless operation on a G62-144DX notebook w/ Windows 7 HP 64-bit. I noted the wireless indicator light glowing amber (disconnected) instead of blue (connected). In attempting to download the manual from HP (and get the exact model # to diagnose wireless issue) I removed the Battery while the AC power was connected (to read the model # on label under battery) while the notebook was upside down with display open. Since that point I have been unable to turn on the unit. I tried a reset procedure (found online directing to hold power button down for 15 seconds with battery out and AC disconnected) but to no avail. When I press the power button it is normally supposed to light up and the notebook should boot, but it does not. I have verified (with a voltmeter) the AC power adaptor is working and battery is charged and in good condition.
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Thanks!

Maybe you are looking at the wrong side. My laptop has ram on both sides, one on the underside access by a panel and one on top under the keyboard.
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Sir, unforjnity my hp g62-208ca notebook pc hardware

dear ,sir
i will purchase hp g62 -280ca notebook pc 25/07/2011 in muscut oman ,now my son use pc unforjunaty delit allprgram after give repair in local shop , the shoper instal window 7 , sonow not working hp program (expl) hp 101 camra ,hp wirles , hp suport and help program not working so please help to me and iam staying in theni near madurai ,tamil nadu ,india 625517 nearst hp service centre address &contuct no mail to me my cont no 00918300115254
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Here are the specs for your HP G62-208CA Notebook Computer, including installed software. Here are the HP Software & Driver Downloads for your G62-208CA Notebook Computer. Not much of the software you have requested is on this page. Please contact HP Customer Support in your region and/or locality and request "Windows 7 64b Dual Language + Supp 3 Recovery Kit"
Frank
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HP G62 Battery causes slow boot - take battery out and boots normally - HP G62-340US Notebook

All,
Very strange thing going on, and I've not seen it on these forums, so here I go.
Turn on laptop, the HP screen appears, and about 20 minutes later, Windows starts loading.
Turn off laptop, pull the battery, turn on the laptop, and Windows starts loading within 10 seconds (normal).
When the battery is in, EVERYTHING takes 15-20 minutes to start. If I select F2 for settings, it takes that long. If I hit F10 (or possibly F8), same delay. If I take the battery out, it works perfectly.
So....I of course assume bad battery......but I've never seen this type of behavoir in ANY computer previously.
Any suggestions?
HP G62-340US Notebook
Windows 7 Home Premium
No error message and no changes made to system.
Thanks
Donlen

Hi
Have you tried to run the Start up test from F2 option did they pass.
Please update the Bios, Graphic & Chipset driver from the HP website and have it checked.
Hi
Try this:
Disconnect AC
Shutdown
Remove battery
Connect AC
Startup
Open Device Manager
Click the plus (+) sign next to Batteries category, right-click All of the "Microsoft ACPI Compliant Control Method Battery" listings, and select Uninstall In the "Confirm Device Uninstall" dialog box, click OK. (it’s ok if you only have 1 of these listings).
Click the plus (+) sign next to System Devices.
Right-click the “ACPI Fixed Features Button" and select Uninstall. In the "Confirm Device Uninstall" dialog box, click OK.
Shutdown
Disconnect AC
Insert battery
Connect AC
Startup
Let us know how it goes!
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Country of Origin of HP G62-220US Notebook PC

Hi,
I have been planning to buy HP G62-220US Notebook PC. For the past weeks, I have been reading this notebooks custumer reviews.
I went ahead to download a pdf format of its specs and under Additional Information, I read: Country of Origin=China.
Does this mean the notebook was manufactured in China?
I would be very happy if any user could give me a very reliable review.
Thanks
George

Crucial has always been very reliable in my experiences with them over several years and machines. They do of course offer the compatibilty guarantee as well.
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G62-227CL Notebook memory upgrade

I have a G62-227CL Notebook, and I would like to add memory. What kind of memory will work? Ideally, I would like to add 4 GB to the extant 3 GB. Must I add two of the 2 GB 1066 MHz PC3 8500 DDR 3 modules, or can I add the single 4 GB DDR3-1333?
(I think my system supports 1066 MHz. Does this mean that the DDR3-1333 would work more slowly, or that it would not work at all?) The 4G 1333 module is a lot cheaper than two of the 2GB 1066 modules, so that's why I ask. Thank you for your help!
Michael
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The single 4 GB stick will work (1333Mz), make sure and insert it into the bottom slot. You can also use the other 2 GB stick with the 4 for a total of 6 GB.
It is advisable to use matched pairs of memory, but it will be fine to mix and match.
Here are some different types of combos from Crucial.
http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=HP%20G62-227CL&Cat=RAM
Your machine supports both and the 1333 Mz will be faster, but you won't really notice the speed difference.

MBP vs MB - thermal grease...

Any news or info on the application of thermal grease on the MacBook, compared to the MacBook Pro?

Maybe someone will be brave enough to take it apart. If not just wait and someone on Digg.com or Engadget will turn up with pics....
aloha
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Thermal grease replacement in G62-B21ER Notebook.

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