This is really weird-my router seems to have a username

Ok, this is really weird.
On top of the reoccuring screen that prompts for username/password everytime I turn on computer, there is a pulldownmenu.
In the pulldown menu seems to be my Earthlink email address. Which Earthlink is not our ISP anymore. It's Bellsouth. So, how would the router have got the Earthlink email address?
The other weird thing is that if I open any browser and type those numbers to access the router setup page, if I type the admin password which my nephew changed, I can type it with a username or without it. For the username I also tried typing in my Earthlink email address, just to see what would happen. It seems to allow me to login either way, with or without the email address for the username.
Does that not sound really weird?

Most linksys routers only use the password and require no username. They simply ignore which username you enter. You can enter anything you like as username.
It is not the router which remembers the usernames and passwords on your computer but your browser or your computer. At one time you have entered your earthlink address in your browser to connect to the router. And now it remember it...

Similar Messages

Power / Wireless & Email: this is really weird.

I have a rather strange issue on my 17" 2.33 MacPro. I have my macbook connecting wirelessly to my 3com office connect router and with browsing there is absolutely no problem at works like dream. However, using Mac mail I will often get a time out on connecting to my email accounts (not all the time). This only happens when wireless not when connected via ethernet. Now I actually work for the ISP whose mail I collect from so know it ain't the servers on that side.
The problem actually gets worse if I am on battery power. The one thing that does seem to have an affect is if the "battery icon" is on "Normal" rather than the "Custom..." or "Best Performance" options.
Now I have read of wireless/"wakeup" issues on the form and just wonder whether they could be connected.
I am fully patched up but have not brought the "n" network card upgrade.
Can anyone point me in the right direction or is this a hardware issue (ouch). The computer is only about a month old
MACPro C2D 2.33 17" Mac OS X (10.4.8)

Try changing wireless channels on the router and see if its caused by interference. Also try without wifi security and with - bascially go through all the likely causes and eliminate them.

This is Really Weird!!

Hey everyone!
Ok, check this out... I just got a CD audio book and I figured why not rip the CD to iTunes and sync it to my iPhone so I can listen to it anywhere I go, right?? Well, I did! but after I "synced" the audio file to my iPhone I noticed it wasn't playing right! I would press the play button on the phone and only noises (yes that is right noises!) would come out from the small speaker. Then I played the same file in the iTunes and guess what?! It worked!! So I figured it got corrupted during "syncing" since it was a long audio file (45 minutes). I "re-synced" the file about 6 times and nothing changed... It played fine on my iTunes but not on my iPhone, and I knew it wasn't a problem with the phone's speaker because all my other songs and videos worked. I tried re-ripping the song 2 other time and the same thing happened. So I decided (I don't know why)to play the song again but instead of using the phone's speaker I put on the headphone and it worked!!! I have never seen this before, but again I don't buy a lot of audio books. Maybe there is a protection (I don't know how since I ripped it in mp3 format) so only one person can listen to it. Again, it is not a poblem with the phone's speaker since I use it all the time.
Well, I thought I would share this with you guys just in case someone runs through the same situation...

I know! I found this so weird myself!! I have ripped hundreds of songs and I have never seen this before, but again, this is the fist audio book I have ripped...
It does play in both ears when using the headphones. It doesn't play right through the phone's speaker...
Here is the info of the audio file from iTunes:
Kind: MPEG audio file
Size: 64.1 MB
Bit Rate: 192 kbps
Sample Rate: 44.100 kHz
Date Modified: 5/8/2008 1:45 AM
Play Count: 0
Last Played: Not available
Format: MPEG-1, Layer 3
Channels: Stereo
ID3 Tag: 2.2
Encoded with: iTunes 7.6.2.9
And here are my Importing settings under Edit->Preferences...->Advanced tab:
Import Using: MP3 Encoder
Setting: Custom...
Details: 96 kbps (mono)/192 kbps (stereo), 44.100 kHz, stereo, normal stereo, optimized MMX/SSE.
I hope that helps...
Thanks!

Now this is REALLY weird!

Ages ago, I asked this forum if it was possible to do an erase and install on my eMac without losing all the info on my Seagate Go 320 external hard drive, and the resounding answer was " NO". I was told that not only would I lose all the stuff stored on it, but I'd have to go thru the entire process of reformatting my drive again to render it compatible with my Mac. Imagine my surprise when, after spending the entire day backing up programs (and going nuts because a full 30% of my CD-Rs ended up as Frisbees rather than valued info), reinstalling everything from the ground floor on, then for a goof just re-plugging my Seagate straight in without bothering to tinkle with it....guess what? Everything was there. Not one single program or file was lost. Now, to the head scratching...what the monkey's is goin' on here? I was emphatically told that because the Seagate wasn't a Fire Wire device( at least for Mac anyway) that I would have to re-create a partition for it and that it would erase everything that'd been stored. Needless to say, I'm absolutely delighted that all my files are still there, but now my kittysense is going into overdrive...anyone out there wanna clue me in as to why I was told one thing and the complete opposite happened?

Nope...didn't do anything except plug the bugger in after I'd already done a complete erase and reinstall of my hard drive. When I initially bought the thing, I had to create a separate partition in order for it to work as it's supposedly not Mac native. I was told that if, in the event I did a clean install of my OS that I would have to repartition it again in order for my computer to recognise it, erasing all the stuff that was stored there in the process. Turns out that I didn't have to do anything, or at least that's the way it's looking...I didn't partition, I didn't do anything special....just plugged the lil thingy back into my USB port, shut my computer off, started it up again and waddaya know, it's working just fine. I must've asked about four different sites, including this one about losing all my files on my external and how to prevent it...every single answer I got was pretty much the same...if it's USB, then you're ***** outta luck. Hey, I'm not complaining about it by any means, in fact I'm thrilled...I'm just sorta curious as to why everyone told me one thing and the exact opposite happened. As said in my previous post, check out the link to my initial query regarding this subject to get a better understanding of what I'm talking about.

Hi: I think this is a common question - I seem to have two Apple ID's and need to know which one to use when activating a replacement iphone5

Hi:
I have 2 Apple ID's.
The first is the ID I established when I bought my first MacBook Pro several years ago.
When Mobile Me ended, I migrated to a new Apple ID that is associated with icloud and that ID has its own password.
On the first iphone 5 I purchased I used the "original ID" and noticed that I'm not receiving any email messages from my mac mail account. I assume this is because I used the original ID and not the new icloud ID.
Now that Apple has sent a replacement phone (issue with loose power button) I'd like to know if I'm supposed to use the iCloud ID to get the mail app to function properly....I've read this on the forums.
Well....thought I'd test out the procedure on the old phone before activating the new phone.....it doesn't seem to work.
I erased all content and settings, and tried to set up the device as new rather then restore from icloud.....I got an error message saying the password and User ID did not match. I then reset my icloud password for my .me user ID.....same message came up, i.e., wrong password.
I'd like to get this figured out as I use three email accounts and would like each of them to "work" on the phone.
Thanks in advance for any help that you can offer.
Michael

jrburrows wrote:
Ok, fair enough. But since Job's death - Apple's control on leaks has been terrible. I got the new iPhone, and I like it - but it hasn't made nearly as big as an impression as previous ones. Because of the vast ammount of leaks. With the iPad mini leaks, it's 99% sure to come out next week.
Apple uses many manufacturers and it's massive also websites prefer to report on Apple whether true or false because it brings more hits.
Amd by "others" I meant other people on iPads - not other devices/manufacturers. It's possible to do so, I just want to know how. I honestly don't think we'll ever be in a Post-PC era until all tablets allow us to use USB in the way computers do.
No, USB is not the future, you missed the memo about cloud and wireless computing?

Over the past week the Mac mail app on my iPad 2 has become locked in vertical orientation and only in the orientation such that the bottom is orientated toward the menu button. Any advice? This is the only app that seems to have been affected.

For the past week or two, my Mac Mail app for my iPad 2 has been stuck in vertical orientation. This is the only app that is similarly affected. Moreover, it will only orient itself such that the bottom is toward the menu button on the iPad. Please advise if you have a solution.

Try closing the Mail app via the taskbar and see if it rotates when you re-open the app : from the home screen (i.e. not with the Mail app 'open' on-screen) double-click the home button to bring up the taskbar, then press and hold any of the apps on the taskbar for a couple of seconds or so until they start shaking, then press the '-' in the top left of the Mail app to close it, and touch any part of the screen above the taskbar so as to stop the shaking and close the taskbar.
If that doesn't work also do a reset : press and hold both the sleep and home buttons for about 10 to 15 seconds (ignore the red slider), after which the Apple logo should appear - you won't lose any content, it's the iPad equivalent of a reboot.

Using Windows 8 64 bit Premiere Elements 12 , motion tracker gives me the folloing error; The media file seems to have an invalid entry in the catalog, please rename it for use.

I'm trying to put a graphic over an object, but I keep getting this error message; The media file seems to have an invalid entry in the catalog, please rename it for use.

Lonesomeless
Thanks for the reply.
I checked the link that I posted back in post 3 of your thread. It is working with at least Firefox and Chrome.
ATR Premiere Elements Troubleshooting: PE12: Motion Tracking/What To Use To Track Object?
What browser are you using?
The blog post contains significant information related to Premiere Elements 12 Motion Tracking. But, if you cannot access it for some reason, then we will need to troubleshoot via communications in the thread.
SG has asked if you are able to create Motion Tracking effect using one of the graphics included with the program. We will watch for your response to him on that question. Please include in your message to him whether you can obtain your file to track the object using Organizer Tab or Project Assets routes as well as Graphics Tab.
The following is an excerpt from the blog post referenced....
SOLUTION
Various tutorials and online comments have pointed to places other than Graphics Tab where objects can be selected and used to track the moving object in the video when the Motion Tracking workspace is opened in the Expert or Quick workspace.
Organizer Tab, Expert or Quick workspace to access Elements Organizer 12. Cascade Windows and drag a video or photo from Elements Organizer into the yellow track box of Motion Tracking workspace.
Project Assets, Expert workspace. Drag text, video, or photos from opened Project Assets into the yellow track box of Motion Tracking workspace.
Graphics Tab, Expert or Quick workspace. Create a png file (graphic) or prtl file (text) and place it in Clip Arts in the Program Files of the program to have a permanent resource. Then from Graphics Tab, drag the newly created graphic or text object into yellow track box of Motion Tracking workspace.
Thanks.
ATR

Mails seem to have disappeared?!

Can anyone help me out with this please?
All of my mails that are over 6 days old display this message when I try to read them:
The message from xxxxxxxx concerning “RE: xxxxxxxx” has not been downloaded from the server. You need to take this account online in order to download it.
The weird thing is that I have actually read all of these mails on THIS computer before and now they seem to have disappeared?!
I just upgraded to OSX 10.4.7 and since then I have noticed a few problems i didn't have before then... not sure if this is one of them though....
appreciate all help offered!
Titanium G4 Powerbook Mac OS X (10.4.7)
Titanium G4 Powerbook Mac OS X (10.4.7)

What's the capacity and space available on the startup disk?
Verify/repair your disk first (not just permissions), as described here:
The Repair functions of Disk Utility: what's it all about?
After having fixed all filesystem issues, if any, and checking that here's enough space available on the startup disk (a few GB, plus the space needed to make a backup copy of the Mail folder), try this:
1. Quit Mail if it's running.
2. In the Finder, go to ~/Library/Mail/. Make a backup copy of this folder, just in case something goes wrong -- e.g. by dragging it to the Desktop while holding the Option (Alt) key down.
3. Locate the Envelope Index file and move it to the Trash. If you see an Envelope Index-journal file there, delete it as well.
4. Open Mail and proceed to re-create the index -- Mail says it's "importing", but it just re-creates Envelope Index if the mailboxes are already in Mail 2.x format.
Note: For those not familiarized with the ~/ notation, it refers to the user's home folder.

PS CS6 Auto Recover??? Posted earlier but seems to have vanished

Hi... posted this earlier but the problem/question seems to have vanished... so, reposting.
Was asked to troubleshoot a Win 7 PS13 (CS6) crash today - first time to my knowledge PS has ever crashed! On restart, no Auto Recover option. All work lost. Did some checking.
Found two folders:
1. On the boot disk, found Users\xxxx...\....\AutoRecover
2. On the exclusive scratch disk - set on G: - found the folder G:\PSAutoRecover (as well as the PS temp file in the root of G:).
Both the AutoRecover folders were empty.
Set auto save time to 5 minutes... Rebooted. Restarted PS and created a new file - test01.psd. Saved it. Did some work, didn't save... kept checking... (played games for 15 mins). Checked. Both AutoRecover files remained empty.
Crashed the system (forced shutdown). Auto recover option and the test file was not showing up in the recent files list... opened the original test01.psd. No work subsequent to the original save showed up. Nor any recovery option. Did some more work on the file... just checked... both the AutoRecover folders are still empty.
(Just closed PS and saw that the PS temp file deleted itself. Both the AutoRecovery folders remain - empty.}
So, my questions are:
1. Is there a 'Permissions' attribute i need to set? Or...
2. Is the AutoRecover messed up? Or...
3. Is the installation messed up and should i advise a reinstallation?
TIA....

Neil...
Think you can somehow help... Have done the following, again today:
1. Uninstalled the entire CS Suite. This includes registry and folders
2. Ran the Adobe CS6 Cleanup tool - twice. Once for the entire suite and a second time for PS
3. Ran a registry clean up program
4. Did a Disk defragment - not really important, but still
5. Rebooted between various stages...
6. Reinstalled CS6 Master Collection minus some programs which are not needed such as Flash, AI 32 bit, etc. But installed both versions of PS
7. Validated using PS
8. Started - separately - both versions of PS. Set scratch to E drive (primary partition - 100GB) and Autorecover to 5 mins
9. Ran both versions of PS and opened and modified a file
In each case, the 'PSAutoRecover' folder was created on the scratch drive - E:\ alongwith the PS temp file. But the 'PSAutoRecover' folder never got populated.
Must be something unique to this system but can't figure out what. It can't be a permissions issue because both the scratch file and the autorecover folder are being created.
BTW... all Adobe entries in the config.sys startup are disabled - except for the Adobe CS6 Service Manager. But can't be those either as they are all related to updates, Acrobat, etc.
Yet, putting the primary scratch on C;\ solves the problem. However, as both Curt and you have tested, that should not be an issue...
(Have not been able to check on any other system as this is the only one that has CS6.)
System specs: Intel i5 processor, 12gb RAM, 64bit Win 7, P-55 USB3 Motherboard
Grateful for any suggestions / ideas...
Cheers...
S

Is My Iphone 3gs the only one that does this really weird glitch

ok i have a issue i looked everywhere and i did not see anything in the forums about this
when i am replying to a text message and auto-spell types something so i hit the back button/delete key to rewrite what i want to type and it does not delete the text it just goes over the letters and doesn't delete it and sometimes the cursor will just get stuck and sometimes the cursor when i am deleting text will keep going over the letters i am typing and doesn't do anything , so as i hit back/delete button on keyboard it just keeps going over the letters and does not delete its really weird, and this is my 2nd new iphone 3gs for a different issue, and they both did that.
what i want to know is if this is a hardware problem and should i take it in to get it replaced again which i hate doing,since i got a good iphone 3gs this time...has this happened to anyone else,or does this happen to anyone else
any help would great thank you

Well if it happened to 2 different iphones perhaps something is corrupted in your backup restore file. By restoring your new phone with this old backup restore file u may be copying over the problem.
Solution: Restore and setup your iphone as a 'New' phone instead of restoring from a previous backup. This should solve your problem.

I have a macbook pro with OSX Mavericks 10.9.5 and some keys that are not working. Specifically, the enter/return button, the "p", "0", ";", and all the function keys. What's really weird is that happens randomly. I've never spilled anything on it

I have a macbook pro with OSX Mavericks 10.9.5 and some keys randomly are not working. Specifically, the enter/return button, the "p", "0", ";", and all the function keys. What's really weird is that happens randomly. I've never spilled anything on it, and I can't for the life of me figure out how to fix this. Can anyone help? of course this happened after my warranty expired.

**update**
I don't know if this will help someone but I am posting this for that purpose. In the past when I first had this problem, I'd read a post somewhere (sorry, long ago, don't have the link) where an individual was having the same problem and they stated that when the MBP got heated, that's when the keys would stop working, and they went into the MBP and jiggle some stuff around (a specific wire, I'm not electronically inclined so I know NOT of what they spake!). Well I didn't want to do that but it always stuck in the back of my mind. I had given up, really, and was planning to take my MBP to the apple store. But by chance one night I left my MBP on the floor where it's cool, and when I turned it on, the problem went - poof! It seems there was some validity to the post that spoke about heat, because my problems started when I would stream foreign dramas on my MBP for hours at night, and I would hear the fan going off all the time, and in the mornings, my "p", "enter", "0", ";", and all the function keys would stop working.
So, maybe try keeping the MBP in a cool place when it's off. Since I've started doing this overnight every night (keeping it on the cool floor, out of reach of any big feet), I have not had a single problem with my keyboard.
Hopefully this might help someone.

Desktop version acting really weird

I'm having trouble getting the desktop version of Story to run (on MacBook Pro, OS X Lion). Whenever I open it, I see this warning
Then it gets really weird. If I have Google Chrome open, I hit Restore Windows and the application opens and runs. If I don't have Google Chrome running, I hit Restore Windows and get
Seems to be true whether I am connected to the internet or not. I thought initially I had a problem with Air, but I've uninstalled and reinstalled and all seems to be well there. Thoughts?

Hi,
This could be due to to OS X Lions 'Save/Restore Application state feature (on quit/relaunch)'.
Can you try out following and see if the issue is fixed ?
1) Launch System Preferences and click on the “General” icon
2) At the bottom of the “Number of recent items” list, uncheck the checkbox next to “Restore windows when quitting and re-opening apps”
3) Now reboot and restart adobe story (you can try reinstalling adobe story as well).
Please note: This might affect other applications, whoe states were stored so far on quitting.This is a sweeping change that impacts all applications and the Finder itself, meaning all apps will no longer save their previous state, including when you reboot your Mac.
thanks
ratnesh
adobe story team

Uh, this is just weird

I've learned decades ago that there can be weird coincidences with computer equipment and software, but I've done this over and over this evening and it happens every time so far.
Like others, if I hold the iphone 4 normally in my left hand, my bars will drop from 5 to a max of 3 and usually all the way down to 1.
I periodically test again and a little while ago, I did the test while the phone was plugged into the usb port of my computer for the first time. I was shocked that it only lost 1 bar!
So I held it so I didn't cover the corner, waited for the bar to come back, and tried again. Still only lost 1 bar.
Then I unplug the USB cable and hold it again - it eventually goes down to 1 bar. Release it, wait for the 5 bars, and try again with the same result.
Then, while still holding it at just 1 bar, I plug the usb plug back in, sort of expecting some bars to come back. They didn't. I let go for about a second and regrip it while it is still at one bar. Another bar comes back. Eventually I release it again and regrip while it is still at 2 bars - another bar comes back. In both cases, it never went back down as I held it with it plugged in, but I had to release the grip for a second or at most two for it to gain a bar while holding it.
I went back and forth, over and over again, having it plugged in and holding it - usually dropped to 3 but never less than that. Then unplug, wait for the 5 bars, grip, and it goes to 1 bar. Plug it in, wait for the 5 bars, grip, and it never goes below 3.
I can only come up with two possible reasons - other than a really weird coincidence:
1. My hand position, when it is plugged in, is slightly different - but I have tried very hard to do it the same. I could see one time the position being enough different, but every time? Not likely!
2. When plugged in, the phone is actually getting more power than when running straight off the battery and the extra power makes it better.
Any ideas? Anyone else can confirm - because my hand is getting tired from all the heavy gripping!!!

So far my testing still shows the same pattern, except for one time but that was odd in itself. I was holding the corner and it dropped to 1 bar, even with the stuff I stuck on the corner. When I released the phone, it just stayed at one bar for some minutes then, seemingly very suddenly, it was back up to 5 bars. Not sure how long it was when I wasn't looking at it since it wasn't something I was ready for, but I think it was just a few seconds which would be much faster than bars usually come back up.
But besides the possible rapid change, there is the issue of why stayed low. I can only come up with the following:
1. AT&T tower was messed up for a few minutes and then kicked back in properly.
2. The hardware in the iphone screwed up for those minutes.
3. The software somehow failed to update the bars.

Cellular data....really weird behavior.

Hello,
I've got a problem using my cellular data connection on my iPhone 5 64gb with last updates. I ve got a data plan with 3 ITA and everythings worked good in the last months...then i moved to london for a while (and used a uk sim) and when i come back and try to use my connection with my 3 ITA plan i noticed a really weird behavior.:
Only whatsapp works....and sometimes facebook messanger notification (but no way to send messages)....or maybe a push notification from the email sometimes. But for example safari or chrome never works...imessage doesnt works. a lot of things don't work.
It's really weird because if I try to reset my iphone and erese everything all seems to work ok so I dont think is a carrier problem. If i restore the backup I start to notice the problems.
What can be the cause?
Anyone experienced a problem like this?
Thank you
Ivan

You should have specified in the title that it's about a MacBook Pro.
Does the same thing happen with other Linux distributions, OS X, or Windows? Because you should be trying to determine if it's a hardware problem or a software problem.
Did it start happening recently, as in, after an update? Intel HD 4000? Check /var/log/pacman.log and downgrade the driver to whatever worked before. But if it's a hardware problem (i.e. it happens on OS X, other distributions, etc), then you need to take it in to the shop, if warranty still applies.

TS1398 My ipad3 seems to have connection issues. It is wifi only but keeps losing the connection and is really slow in loading pages - a bit like dial-up speed! My iPhone 4s and daughters' ipad2 have no problems at all. Any ideas anyone?

My ipad3 seems to have connection issues. It is wifi only but keeps losing the connection and is really slow in loading pages - a bit like dial-up speed! My iPhone 4s and daughters' ipad2 have no problems at all. Any ideas anyone?

Look at iOS Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1398
iPad: Issues connecting to Wi-Fi networks http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3304
iOS: Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4199
Additional things to try.
Try this first. Turn Off your iPad. Then turn Off (disconnect power cord) the wireless router & then back On. Now boot your iPad. Hopefully it will see the WiFi.
Go to Settings>Wi-Fi and turn Off. Then while at Settings>Wi-Fi, turn back On and chose a Network.
Change the channel on your wireless router. Instructions at http://macintoshhowto.com/advanced/how-to-get-a-good-range-on-your-wireless-netw ork.html
Another thing to try - Go into your router security settings and change from WEP to WPA with AES.
How to Quickly Fix iPad 3 Wi-Fi Reception Problems
http://osxdaily.com/2012/03/21/fix-new-ipad-3-wi-fi-reception-problems/
If none of the above suggestions work, look at this link.
iPad Wi-Fi Problems: Comprehensive List of Fixes
http://appletoolbox.com/2010/04/ipad-wi-fi-problems-comprehensive-list-of-fixes/
Fix iPad Wifi Connection and Signal Issues http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwWtIG5jUxE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If any of the above solutions work, please post back what solved your problem. It will help others with the same problem.
 Cheers, Tom

This is really weird-my router seems to have a username

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