This Is the Best Adsl Router

The billion 7800n is an awsome Router for all,it`s a little technical but once understood this will help your connection to BT broadband,
see some info in setting up SNR
http://www.spaldwick.com/broadband/billion-7800n

Darren wrote:
I was sceptical when I brought this however since I have had it,I must say it has improved my connection ten fold
NOW NOW Darren don't brag. Ten fold lets just say its improved it
toekneem
http://www.no2nuisancecalls.net
(EASBF)

Similar Messages

Is this really the best I'm going to get?

2 years with BT and had awful connection and speed issues, many numerous long calls to India doing first line tests, mostly being told that I would receive a call back and never do. Recently informed of an upgrade at the exchange but speeds dipped since and have not been any better since.
Been reading these forums for a while, I am plugged into master socket, the one with BT Openreach logo on, ring wire removed, connected for over 3 days, no other phones in sockets. I was always told as I am 1.6k from the exchange speeds were not to be great but next door shows as 4-6k, I'm lucky to have dial up speeds most of the time.
It appears that other people within feet of me are having decent speeds, mostly via Talk Talk I hasten to add but was told that it would make no difference as BT are the main supplier.
The quiet line check appears in order, no noises or crackles seems a little quiet but reported that online a week ago but not heard anything since.
I would be grateful and see from your experience is this really the best I'm going to get?
ADSL Line StatusConnection information
Line state:
Connected
Connection time:
3 days, 23:30:49
Downstream:
1,920 Kbps
Upstream:
448 Kbps
ADSL settings
VPI/VCI:
0/38
Type:
PPPoA
Modulation:
G.992.1 Annex A
Latency type:
Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up):
13.5 dB / 15.0 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up):
55.5 dB / 31.5 dB
Output power (Down/Up):
16.8 dBm / 12.6 dBm
FEC Events (Down/Up):
468069285 / 1845
CRC Events (Down/Up):
1578613 / 1771
Loss of Framing (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Signal (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Power (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Link (Remote):
0
HEC Errors (Down/Up):
738099 / 1160
Error Seconds (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
More Details
Hide Details
To reset back to the default BT Total Broadband username and password, click the 'Reset username' button.
Reset username
Applying...
WAN StatusConnection information
Line state:
Disconnected
Connection time:
Not available
Software version V100R001C01B031SP09_L_B | Time & date 13:51 08/04/2012
Here's part of the BT speed test, still waiting................
1. Best Effort Test: -provides background information.
Download Speed
11 Kbps
0 Kbps
2 Mbps Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 11 Kbps For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 800 Kbps-2 Mbps. IP Profile for your line is - 1.69 Mbps
2. Upstream Test: -provides background information.
Upload Speed
370 Kbps
0 Kbps
448 Kbps Max Achievable Speed
Upload speed achieved during the test was - 370Kbps Additional Information: Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 448 Kbps
This test was not conclusive and further testing is required.This might be useful for your Broadband Service Provider to investigate the fault.
If you wish to carry out further tests,please click on 'Continue' button.If not, please close the window using 'Exit' button and contact your ISP for further assistance with these results.
The speed is extremely slow today, however this is nothing new as dips in and out constantly. I have left the BT Homehub 3 connected to the master socket, hopefully anyone able to assist??
Thanks
Mark

Hi you are 4km from your exchange that is your line length as you have been connected 3days + and your noise margin is high i will suggest you contact the forum mods and request a noise margin reset to the default 6db this is a link to them
http://bt.custhelp.com/app/contact_email/c/4951
they normally reply by email or phone directly to you within 3 working days
They are a UK based BT specialist team who have a good record at getting problems solved
If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer,please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution’

Adobe X PDF files converted to jpg, edited and converted back to PDF have ragged, unclear text. I didn't have this problem with Acrobat 9 standard. What is the remedy for this. If this is the best I can expect, I won't be able to use X standard.

Adobe X PDF files converted to jpg, edited and converted back to PDF have ragged, unclear text. I didn't have this problem with Acrobat 9 standard. What is the remedy for this. If this is the best I can expect, I won't be able to use X standard.

I can't imagine any worse workflow than converting to JPEG to edit text, then back to PDF. Text in a PDF is a vector thing, smooth at all resolutions. And JPEG is made for photos. EVERY conversion to JPEG and back loses quality but how much loss there is will vary.
If you must go to an image format, try PNG.

What is the best Wireless Router for ichat

Hi Guys,
I wonder if anyone can give me any advice from all your experience as to the best Wireless Router I should get in order to use ichat with a minimal setup hassle. I have a G5 and iBook both using Mac OS X 10.4.3 with an external ichat camera. I am based in the UK and use AOL UK on a 2meg broadband connection. Is there a router out there that has easy software to configure?
Thanks for your help!!!
Apple G5 and i Book Mac OS X (10.4.3)

I use A Linksys WRK54G which is Pack of the Wireless router and a laptop PCIAM (or what erver the name is ) card.
It give me UPnP, Port Triggering and of course good old Port Forwarding.
It gives me 4 ethernet ports as well as Wireless access.
It will handle PPPoE logins if the modem is in Bridge mode.
I have it set to have a Static Address Modem to Router and it is also not doing DHCP And therefore Static to the computer(s).
I would also look at what speed your Internet conection is likely to rise to in the next few years. Some devices can not handle the speeds offered in some places. So make sure it will handle the Uplink and Download speeds you want as well.
Ralph

What is the best wifi router?

what is the best wifi router? I have a netgear which required that I set my devices with static/manual IPs etc... and yet still losing connection at least once a day. Is airport express my best option to connect both apple and PC devices?

Sorry, but that would be difficult to answer. What is best for you will depend on a number of factors, including: current networking hardware, network environment, your budget, etc.
If you are sure that your current Netgear router is not working for you, I would recommend that you first establish you basic networking requirements. That is, what do you want your network to do? What area do you want for Wi-Fi coverage? What can your current networking clients support, both for radio mode (802.11g, 802.11n, or 802.11ac) and wireless encryption types (WEP, WPA, or WPA2)? Will you be streaming HD video content on your local network, and/or from the Internet? What bandwidth (download/upload) is your ISP providing you?
From there we might be able to make sum recommendations.

What's the beste wireless router for ADSL?

Hello everyone,
Since I'm new to the Macworld, I'd like to know what's the best wireless modem to the Macbook. I've been looking forward to the Netgear one, but other options like D-Link that are lesse expensive.
So, what's the best option for connection speed, usability and easy setting up?
Thanks in advance!

Just stick with the netgear if you could instead of D-link, a bit pricier is better than pulling your hair out to configure whats wrong...
I use 2 netgear and both work very well. 11b at home and 11 g at the office.
Just remember overtime you might have to set it up the internal configuration (depend on the isp provider) and you might be able to set it up by connect and using pc and with supported web browser like internet explorer to access the web based configuration setting by typing their default ip address.
Good Luck.

Whats the Best WiFi Router For The iPod Touch?

Dont know if this is in the right sevtion or not, but feel free to yell at me if its not lol
What is the best brand of WiFi router (e.g. linksys, D-link etc) For the iPod Touch? And are there any bad WiFi routers for the iPod?
Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!!

I can confirm 4 brands.
Linksys
Netgear
microsoft
Some cheap thing that came with verizon DSL
All have worked without any special configuration for the ipt.
Actually, I don't really think their is a better router, every network I have connected to worked, absolutly no trouble at all.
Btw- this message came from an 1.1.3 ipt via a netgear wireless connection.

When I send a webpage via email, some of my recipients are unable to see it properly. The website was made with iWeb, and a Mac person advised me this was the best way to do an email campaign with iWeb, but it's not working for a lot of my customers - why

I have recently created a website for my family's business. When we bought the Macbook the guy in Apple said the best way to send an email campaign to our mailing list was to publish a hidden page, find it in the browser on Safari, then share it via email, so that is what I do. For most of my customers this works fine, however I have a number of people each month who cannot see any of the content of the email. I have added an 'If you can't see this email properly...' link at the top of the page, with no shapes or images etc near it, but even that does not appear for them.
I am a self-taught novice unfortunately, so haven't a clue what the problem is. I'm not sure of the operating system, but we bought the Macbook in May and it has all the recent updates installed. I have just had a new baby so can't get into the store fdor a one-to-one, so if anyone could explain why this happens / what I can do about it, I would be very grateful! Thanks!

If you think getting your web pages to appear OK in all the major browsers is tricky then dealing with email clients is way worse. There are so many of them.
If you want to bulk email yourself, there are apps for it and their templates will work in most cases...
http://www.iwebformusicians.com/Website-Email-Marketing/EBlast.html
This one will create the form, database and send out the emails...
http://www.iwebformusicians.com/Website-Email-Marketing/MailShoot.html
The alternative is to use a marketing service if your business can justify the cost. Their templates are tested in all the common email clients...
http://www.iwebformusicians.com/Website-Email-Marketing/Email-Marketing-Service. html
"I may receive some form of compensation, financial or otherwise, from my recommendation or link."

What's the best wireless router?

I have a TiPBk G4 running 10.4.10, & my Linksys router just died. It was mod# WRT54G, using 802.11g. I understand there is a newer & faster standard, 802.11n. I have a basic airport card (don't think an extreme is even compatible w/ my unit). Will the 802.11n routers work w/ my laptop & the basic airport card? If not, is there some sort of adapter fix that I could try?

I recently bought an Airport Extreme Base Station (the new square one with "n"). It works perfectly with my even older PowerBook G3, which has the Airport "b" card. You need to use Mac OS X 10.4 to run the admin tools, but I see you have that. The new version of the Airport Utility is the best part of the package - very elegant software. I also use it with a Power Mac G5 (with an "g" card).
I saw that Apple has it on the refurb page.
http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/AppleStore.woa/wa/RSLID?nplm=FA 073LL/A

What's the best ADSL modem to use with Airport Extreme?

My current set up includes an 802.11n Airport Extreme (that I use in conjunction with my Apple TV and MacBook) connected to my Netgear DG834G wireless router (wifi is switched off). The Netgear router is connected by ethernet to 2 Macs, a Skype phone, and my laser printer.
I want to upgrade my LAN to gigabit, and I'm not sure whether I would be better to use a Gigabit switch instead of connecting everything via the router, or whether I should buy a new router which supports gigabit?
Also, I've just been reading about the DrayTek Vigor 100 ADSL2+ Ethernet Modem, and it suggests that it's better to have a separate modem rather than a router. All I know is that in the early days of broadband the USB modems connected to one computer were very unreliable, and that a router was far better.
What is the best way to configure such options? When I first got my new Airport Extreme I found that both it and the router were 'competing' with each other. Is there anywhere to turn to so I can get a better understanding of how to configure these things.
PS. I know my Airport Extreme doesn't have gigabit - but I've just ordered the newer version that does.
Message was edited by: bilbo_baggins

I use the Linksys ADSL2MUE - which I managed to buy for £12.
I configured it in bridged mode - leaving the Apple Extreme do all the firewall and DHCP stuff.
It's not pretty but does the job.

My daughter is going on an exchange to France for a year. I saw that there is a SIMS prepaid card that fits into an iPhone 4S. Do you think this is the best way to go and oDo d I suspend her service with our carrier?

My daughter is going on an exchange to France for a year. I saw that there is a SIMS prepaid phone card that fits into an iPhone 4S. Is this the best way to go and if so, Do I suspend her service with our carrier?

Is your daughter's phone officially unlocked? If not, you won't be able to use any sim other than a sim from the carrier your daughter's phone is locked to. To do what you want, you need to get your daughter's phone officially unlocked. Once done, she can then purchase a local sim when she gets to France.

This is the best method to install a new version of Studio!

Do it cleanly. By this I mean create a new fresh startup disk for the install of Studio. Whether for Studio 1 ,2 or 3, trust me. this method will get you to a really stable FCS system.
1. Backup everything you want to keep if you're using the same drive you've been using as your startup disk. Clone it if you'd like to save time digging around for the files you want to keep. Or buy a new drive for your tower and use it as a startup disk, keeping the earlier one until you've transferred all you need from it. (I have no less than 3 startup disks for my single tower here) One is a 250 gig drive, the other two reside on their own partitions of a second physical drive. I use one system for beta testing, reinstalling the OS each beta test, and one "working" system for daily real work environments, and yet another "backup" system which is there just in case I need it. (but never really do actually).
2. Load your latest OS disk, and restart your computer from it holding down the c key during a boot up, or selecting it from the startup disk control panel in the apple system prefs.
3. Once your computer starts up from the OS disk, select "optional installs" from the button you'll see in the window. From there select "erase and install" and install will begin.
4. After the OS install, run Software update and go all the way with it. There's nada out there that's not OK to install.
5. Install Studio. If it's an upgrade version, no problem to not install the earlier version you're upgrading from. Just have it's serial number handy because FCS will ask for it as well as the upgrade serial number.
6. Run Software upgrade again to make sure all of your FCS apps are up to date. INSTALL EVERYTHING that Software Update proposes to install.
7. You'll be a very happy camper.. it will also feel like your whole computer is faster because of this clean install of the OS you did...
It's not impossible to get a fine upgrade done without doing it as I've described above, but with the latest round of problems being posted about a new install, I gotta say that this clean method will fix all the problems being posted here and elsewhere. Why even bother taking the risk? What I've posted above will be THE WAY to make sure you're system is running right.
I've espoused this method of install any time you upgrade your OS (i.e., Tiger to Leopard or the upcoming Leopard to Snow Leopard upgrades about ready to hit us all) OR any time you install a new version of FCS or even a FIRST install of the studio. It's not all that time consuming, and running pro level software really demands that the system install is totally clean.
I oversee about 75 FCS stations at the Colorado Film School, we do this clean install every semester (4 months) on the systems there, and really have incredibly stable setups. Never really having the problems that get reported all over the forums... not only that, they boot fast, run fast, and just work.
When software companies test new versions of their software in beta, it's always asked by all software manufacturers to install their beta over a clean fresh OS... always... so there's a lesson here to learn from them, and also a hint: nobody chooses the "upgrade" button for a new version of said software, rather they are testing over CLEAN installs only. Makes perfect sense then to install new versions of software as complicated as this is over a clean new OS install.
Jerry

I fully support Jerry's advice. Though it is a little like the old auto repair manual I once had. If you looked in the section under "clutch replacement", it started out like this ...
*Clutch Replacement procedure.*
• elevate car - be sure to use jack stands to support vehicle
• remove engine
• with clutch pressure plate exposed ....
Of course, they never spelled out all that was involved in the "remove engine" step. So, in the interest of adding more detail to Jerry's advice on the "erase and install" process for those who have not done it before and might be intimidated - read on.
• Make a list of all Applications to install. Which ones do you need? Go through your Applications and Utilities folder and note which ones you'll want to reinstall. Note the version.
(I don't know about you, but I had a shocking number of apps I downloaded, used for a few times and never used again. Forget installing these disused apps.)
• If you are upgrading from a PPC to an intel machine, you'll want to know if the apps are UB or PPC. Upgrading your PPC software to UB can be a significant cost in a PPC to intel conversion. Know what you are getting into - do a search before installation to see if there is a UB version available. You can find out whether an app is PPC or UB by looking in System Profiler>Software>Applications. This window will also tell you the current installed version number. Generate a .pdf file of it and have everything listed for your records.
• In the list, note whether is was a download or you have a disk. If it was a download, find the DMG or installer package and copy it to an external firewire drive. Put it in a folder titled - Apps to be installed - or something easily identifiable.
• If you need to go back to a previous version (e.g. QT 6.5.2) download the dmg file BEFORE you start the installation process.
• In the list, note if the application is a full install or an UPGRADE. If an upgrade, make sure you have the previous version's disks (as well as the serial numbers - see below).
If the UPGRADE version does not require the previous version to be present - eg when installing the upgrade version of FCP 7, DO NOT install earlier software. All you'll need is the previous serial number. The way to figure this out is to try to install the newest version. If it needs the previous version present before proceeding, the install process will tell you that.
Some upgrades will require that a version of the previous app is on the disk. If this is the case, when you install the first version, simply install the minimum so the app will be on the hard drive. You will need to do this because there will be NOTHING on the disk after you do your clean erase.
• Referencing your list, find ALL your disks before you start. This includes previous versions if you are unsure whether they will be needed.
• Spend some time looking through this forum for Professional Application installation issues. The classic example is a conflict between Logic and FCP. Install FCP first and you'll have no issues.
• Sort your list into an installation sequence. Lay out your disks in that order.
• Referencing the list, make sure you have ALL your serial numbers including those you've downloaded. I've purchased a number of programs on line and the only documentation of the serial number was an email. All those are kept in a dedicated folder in Mac Mail. For serial numbers that arrived via electronic means, use cut and paste instead of re-typing whenever possible. This will prevent errors in transcription.
In making the list, TEXT EDIT works ok, (I use Excel). Text edit has the benefit of being easily readable on any mac. Print the list out for reference, put a copy on a flash drive or a firewire drive where you can access it to cut and past serial numbers during the installation process.
• Recognize this is going to take some time. Ranting, drinking too much coffee, swearing, sitting in front of the computer watching the progress bar, etc will not make things go faster. All it will to is put you in a really bad frame of mind. Do it over a weekend when you can be multitasking. While you are cleaning off the mountains of paper on your desk or raking the yard, you can take regular breaks to check on progress.
Process -
• Download Carbon Copy Cloner or one of the other backup utilities and do a full backup of your existing system drive to an external firewire drive. Make the drive bootable. *Do not* cheap out on this as this is your insurance policy. If you forget something or can not find a serial number, you often can find it and copy it from the backup system to the newly installed version. Or, if things go horribly wrong, you can simply copy the old system back to your computer and pick up where you left off.
If you have a MacPro or G5 tower, an alternative to cloning your existing system disk is to pick up a new hard drive to use as the clean new system disk. Your existing system disk will be the clone.
• Once you have gathered and organized all the materials and backed up the drive or installed the new system drive ...
• Insert your OSX installation disk and boot the computer from the disk (Jerry explains how)
• Erase the hard drive. Use the ZEROs option as this will map out any bad sectors. This will take time. See the note above.
• Install the OS. If it is an upgrade install, see the note above regarding upgrade installs. Repair Permissions and then run the updates. Repair Permissions.
• Install your applications following your list. Make sure to Repair Permissions after each install and update..
Have fun, be prepared for a few minor glitches. If you multitask, you can get the garage/ or office cleaned out and your computer rebuilt. In all honesty, this process took all weekend plus time in the next week as I discovered apps that needed additional updates, configuration settings, etc. No doubt it would have been faster if I was sitting at the console the whole time, but I was able to get the office cleaned up and organized (which also makes ME much faster). Overall it was a very slick process.
When you have a fully functioning system again (you have tested all applications and everything works), CLONE the new system and put your info, your notes and the disks in a safe place - once you've done this once, why go through the pain of organizing this stuff again ...
Now, rejoice in a much faster machine with a lot more free disk space.
Cheers,
x

What is the best ADSL modem to use with AEBS in the UK?

I'm currently using the Netgear DG834G with it's wireless functionality switched off, and my AEBS (gigabit) is set up as a bridge.
When I've tried to resolve various problems such as getting iChat AV working I've got the impression that I might have fewer problems if I let the AEBS do the routing, and simply had an ADSL modem connected to it (rather than a modem/router combo).
What do other people use in the UK, and what success do you have with Skype, iChat etc?
Is there a better way to configure my DG834G so it only acts as a modem? I don't have much technical knowledge in this area, though I have been through the Netgear control panel and sorted out fixed IP addresses.
In some respects, ie. internet browsing, streaming movie trailers on the Apple TV, OS X software updates, all perform perfectly. From that point of view, it seems that there cannot be too much wrong?
A couple of 'by the ways': I also have an Airport Express configured in bridge mode to use with my iPhone and 802.11g MacBook, so that I can keep the Airport Extreme (gigabit) set to work exclusively on 802.11n for maximum performance to the Apple TV. The Extreme and Express are using different frequencies.
I've just ordered the new Mac Pro, which has two Ethernet ports. Is there a way I can put these to good use, for example having a standard network separate from a gigabit network using jumbo frames? I'm sure this is too much to put in one thread, but in a way it's probably best to cover everything together!

I use the Linksys ADSL2MUE - which I managed to buy for £12.
I configured it in bridged mode - leaving the Apple Extreme do all the firewall and DHCP stuff.
It's not pretty but does the job.

What is the best compatible router to use with MSI?

I am typing this through my phone as my internet does not work on my MSI since yesterday. Therefore I will make it short.
I have a MSI GT70 2pc and I had just replaced the old router with a new one. All went well for about two weeks untill yesterday where I began receiving lag and no internet connection. Yes I do have full wifi bar but I was not able to connet to no website or game.
The troubleshoot stated two point: something about the Primary DNS server... And a firmwall is formed on preventing connection.
I don't know much info about router, give some help please cause I'm tired of issues. I will be calling my internet server tomorrow

Which new router do you have?
Quote
I do have full wifi bar but I was not able to connet to no website or game.
Are you sharing the connection from a single router? If something goes wrong with the original router but the connection of the shared AP is still working fine, sometimes you'll have this kind of situation.
Try to use the ping command and finds out which connection is down.

What is the best wireless router for my imac G4

i need a wireless router for my imac g4. Which one do you recommend? All all wireless routers capatible with macs?

As Donald mentions, the routers are all compatible with Macs, but the software CD that they include often has Windows specific software on them that is really just a front-end for configuring the router for use. It does nothing that you cannot do yourself manually by accessing the router through the IP address that gets you into the router settings.
If it sounds difficult, it certainly is not. Once you are in - and that is simple - the router's info is in a nice graphical interface that is simple to use.
I use a Netgear WGR614 for my mixed Mac-PC network at it works like a charm. I got it at Best Buy for $39.99.

This Is the Best Adsl Router

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for