Thousand and first question about resolution

From yesterday we are happy owners of Mac Mini. Beautiful, everything works and all that. Last task is to setup resolution for Panasonic 42" HDTV. Mini recognized it immediately as PANASONIC TV and suggested resolution 1280 x 720. Picture is there but not quite right.
Tried this suggested in one of the answers before:
How to Get 1080P, not 1080i, out of the Mac Mini. This is the tough one. When you go to the Displays control panel on the Mac Mini (Leopard, Mac OS X 10.5), you are given lots of video choices. However, the maximum resolution says 1920×1080 (interlaced) at 60Hz. What gives? I’m not sure, but it seems like a bug. The secret is to enable the checkbox that says “Show displays in menu bar”. If you do then, a displays icon appears in the menu bar. Click it to get a drop down menu of all display resolutions. Interestingly, there are now two 1920×1080 options, which are labeled identically. Choose the other one! You’ll now be driving full 1080P (confirmed by the Vizio).
For me second 1920x1080 res line never appears in drop down menu. Suggestions??
Thank you,
Zack

Typically computer output will look better with a progressive resolution. With interlaced resolutions, a picture element like a horizontal line that is only one pixel in width will get drawn to the screen only once every alternate frame. This will cause the line to flicker badly relative to the rest of the screen.
But if the intent is to just show movies or photos or content like that, and avoid text and other more typical computer applications, then 1080i can look good. It's really up to you to decide which works best for your application and the gear you own.

Similar Messages

I'm looking to buy a new Macbook Pro, and have questions about the Applecare extended warranty?

I'm looking to buy a new Macbook Pro, and have questions about the Applecare extended warranty? I want to know if the 3 year extended warranty covers what damage. Like water damage, accidental damage, lost or stolen macbook, manufactory defects, or any other kind of damage, maybe be even cosmetic damage. Can anyone help me?

If you are talking about features of the MBP itself, as long as you are not looking at the Retina models, then the memory you can upgrade yourself for a lot less than Apple charges, and that does not affect the warranty as Apple considers memory a user permitted upgrade. Great sources are Crucial and OWC, both are Mac specialists and have on-line videos on how to do the install.
If the 15" is what you are looking at, a good upgrade is the 7200 rpm hard drive, gives a little better performance over the standard 5400 rpm drive.
The Hi Res screen is good if you do a lot of graphics work.
Comparing the 13" amd 15" you will notice the 15" has a second, discrete graphic processor...helps when you get into heavy duty videos, games, graphics...but keep in mind that kicking in the second processor uses a lot of power and will run the battery down faster.
If you are looking at the Retina models, then keep in mind there are no post-purchase upgrade options...you have to buy with everything you want at the start.
Just some thoughts.

Quick (and urgent) Question about Intel G5's

Just a quick question about the new intel G5's.
I currently have bunch of software for my PPC G5 which is a Dual 2ghz. Software includes Adobe CS2, Macromedia Studio, Quark 6, etc, etc.
If I purchase the new intel mac, would I be able to use the same software? or would I be forced to purchase a whole new set of everything I currently have?
If the software will work on the intel G5, would it perform at the same rate/better than how it performs now on my PPC g5?
Thanks in advance for any help.

Rosetta:
Most of the time you get a real 'hit' when a program first opens that is PPC. Very sluggish. They will require and use more memory than otherwise, too.
Tests from last August aren't as helpful, there have been improvements, letting the Mac Pro pull even further ahead.
http://www.barefeats.com/quad06.html
Comparison Mac Models shows scores of all models. So there is 2x as much or more processing power, bandwidth, better video, as well as disk drives. A 'base' configuration would be 4-6GB RAM.
And there are differences, more than between G4 and G5.
People with experience would be Mac Pro Discussions
Don't use Migration Assistant, and upgrade to CS3 etc. reinstall all your applications fresh.
There are some drivers and plug-ins, that can be problems, and known.
Mac Pro 2GHz 4GB 10K Raptor RAID Cinema HD Mac OS X (10.4.9) WD RE RAID Aaxeon FW800 PCIe MDD-G4 APC RS1500 Vista

TrackControl, Change Track, and others questions about AvTransmit

Hi there,
I've got multiples questions about JMF and AvTransmit, hope you will help
For a small student project, i'm developing a streaming server using JMF, i have used the AvTransmit example.
Streaming, etc... everything work fine, i stream music over web
But i need help with "playlist" :
// Get the tracks from the processor
TrackControl[] tracks = processor.getTrackControls();
First Question :
The Processor use a MediaLocator to get one track, is there a way to indicate multiples tracks, such as a directory containing multiples audio file ?
At this time, i can only set 1 file in the MediaLocator.
I'm using a simple class as Playlist (a File[]), and, when i want to change song, i stop the thread, change the MediaLocator with another file, and restart the thread.
It works on a Lan, but on Internet, Player (I use VLC for my test) lost the connection, i need to restart VLC to get audio again.
Second Question
Is there a more "elegant" way to change tracks ?
Last Question
I have think about building my own object Playlist... gasp...
I've look at the javadoc... but i'm a bit lost... does my class have to implement TrackControl ? what are the object inside etc...
If someone knows information about this...
That's all ;)
Thanks !
Tommy, french student (sorry for the english)

First Question :
The Processor use a MediaLocator to get one track, is there a way to indicate multiples tracks, such as a directory containing multiples audio file ?
At this time, i can only set 1 file in the MediaLocator.No. The processor uses a MediaLocator to get one file. Files (can) contain multiple tracks.
You can, in fact, combine the tracks of multiple files together, but, there's no need to do that with your application. AVTransmit2 sends each track as a separate RTP stream, so you'd just be sticking them together just to pull them apart again.
In general, you want to keep your architecture as one processor per file, one RTP stream per track.
Second Question
Is there a more "elegant" way to change tracks ?Yes. It's what I refer to as a jukebox DataSource. I discuss it / explain the concept on this previous thread.
[http://forums.sun.com/thread.jspa?forumID=28&threadID=5400318]
What you're essentially doing when you change the MediaLocator is starting over from scratch. You end up with a whole new DataSource, whole new Processor, whole new RTP session. On the LAN, this isn't an issue because it looks like you paused the RTP session (because the IP/PORTs don't change).
Over the internet, though, when you stop sending and restart, you're very likely going to get a new public NAT port. And so when your stream gets to the client, it's going to look like it's from a different person than the original.
The solution is to use the jukebox datasource to change the media without restarting the Processor or the RTP streams. That'll ensure that your stream won't move between files from the perspective of the client...
Last Question
I have think about building my own object Playlist... gasp...
I've look at the javadoc... but i'm a bit lost... does my class have to implement TrackControl ? what are the object inside etc...
If someone knows information about this...Ummmm, your "Playlist" object should just be a Jukebox datasource, so follow the link and figure out how that's supposed to work. If you have questions about it, just ask 'em here (rather than on the older thread)...

My first question about photos and getting rid of them in the wallpaper sec

I have no idea how to get rid of jsut a couple, it only seems that i will have to erase all of them. any info would be greatly appreciated.

Not sure, have you checked the manual?
http://manuals.info.apple.com/enUS/iPhone_UserGuide.pdf

New to mac and iphoto, questions about photo structure & organization

I bought a new Macbook Pro a couple of days ago and am still figuring things out. I wasn't displeased with windows...I just decided to try a mac anyway, So far, I adore it except for one thing, the pictures.
I spent hours researching whether to download and use picasa 3 for mac or iphoto. I decided on picasa....and now I've changed my mind. (Mostly because I tried to take pictures of the moon tonight, and they looked great in camera, but Picasa could only pick up a black screen whearas iphoto actually saw and defined the moon- and with the editing software on the two, the picasa auto-edit looked like a picture that was created in microsoft paint, and iphoto came out with a beautifully contrasted photo).
Now that I decided to use iphoto, I have been researching how to switch and still seem to have a lot of questions. (I've poked around numerous forums but have found conflicting answers on different sites).
1) I organize my pictures by folders with the month and year. I know iphoto organizes events, which it seems to determine based on photo similarity. Will my photo structure still appear in finder -> pictures?
2) Is it possible to stop iphoto from organizing my pictures and just trust me on what I want?
3) All of my friends and family use PCs, and there is a chance that due to financial concerns, when I eventually replace my macbook pro (far in the future) I could switch to a pc. Does iphoto make transferring pictures more difficult? (If I understand correctly, it does not change the photo file, a jpeg is still a jpeg but I want to be sure)
4) I do not want iphoto to duplicate all of the pictures already in my library....if I import from finder-users-pictures, will it simply use those, or duplicate all 150gb worth of pictures?
5) Any other tips for someone completely new to macs and iphoto?
6) This is very silly, but how do I uninstall picasa (I know how to uninstall on a windows but want to make sure I do things correctly on my mac!)
Also, just a "bonus"- regarding events vs. files I create, will iphoto create events within the program but leave my file structure in the library it imports from alone? If I use finder to go to where I store my photos, will I still see my file structure regardless of what iphoto does?(Does that make sense? I'm having a hard time trying to describe it)
I apologize if this question is foolish or misplaced- I did read many other posts but didn't see the answers I was looking for.

Your questions are neither foolish nor misplaced.
The first thing I strongly suggest is that you make a trial iPhoto Library. Import 100 or 200 pics and explore. Iphoto isn't right for everybody, and if you're going to use it you will need to rethink things a little.
1) I organize my pictures by folders with the month and year. I know iphoto organizes events, which it seems to determine based on photo similarity. Will my photo structure still appear in finder -> pictures?
A: Events are based entirely on Date and Time not on 'photo similarity' You can set the interval for what makes an Event in the iPhoto Preferences: iPhoto Menu -> Preferences -> General Pane: Autosplit into Events... And select from the drop down menu.
Will my photo structure still appear in finder -> pictures?
Yes or no, depending... iPhoto can run as a Referenced or Managed Library. In the former case, yes you files will be visible in the Finder, in the latter case they won't.
Note that Referenced or Managed refers +only to file storage+ It offers no extra functionality, it does nothing at all. App like iPhoto are your go-to app for your photos. If you use it, then you never access the photos via the Finder. Ever. It's always via iPhoto or the many, many hooks into the OS that it has.
I'll detail more on Referenced v Managed below.
2) Is it possible to stop iphoto from organizing my pictures and just trust me on what I want?
I'm not sure what you mean by this. Iphoto does basic date and time organisation by default. You can change it, you can change the location of the photos in Events, merge them and then using the other tools available - Albums, Smart Albums, Faces, Places etc you can organise your photos whatever way you want.
But what do you mean by pictures. There is a distinction between Photos - the image of your child holding his dog - and files: A Jpeg is just a file. Iphoto is designed for you to +forget about the jpeg+ and get on with the interesting bit: the pics of your younger and his pet.
3) All of my friends and family use PCs, and there is a chance that due to financial concerns, when I eventually replace my macbook pro (far in the future) I could switch to a pc. Does iphoto make transferring pictures more difficult? (If I understand correctly, it does not change the photo file, a jpeg is still a jpeg but I want to be sure)
A Jpeg is a Jpeg is a Jpeg. If you migrate to another app or an entire OS you can export the photos plus any and all metadata you've added to the Finder and move it on. (Caveat: You cannot export Faces. There is no agreed standard on any system for exchanging this info.)
4) I do not want iphoto to duplicate all of the pictures already in my library....if I import from finder-users-pictures, will it simply use those, or duplicate all 150gb worth of pictures?
It can do either. And this brings me back to the Referenced v Managed discussion above. By default, iPhoto will Manage the files, that is, it will copy them into the Library. You can choose not to, but I strongly recommend that you don't:
*How to do it:*
Simply go to iPhoto Menu -> Preferences -> Advanced and uncheck 'Copy Files to the iPhoto Library on Import'.
*What Happens:*
Now iPhoto will not copy the files, but rather simply reference them on your HD. To do this it will create an alias in the Originals Folder that points to your file. It will still create a thumbnail and, if you modify the pics, a Modified version within the iPhoto Library Folder.
*Some things to consider:*
1. Importing and deleting pics are more complex procedures. You have to to put the files where they will be stored before importing them. When you delete them you'll need to remove the files from the HD yourself.
2. You cannot move or rename the files on your system or iPhoto will lose track of them on systems prior to 10.5 and iPhoto 08. Even with the later versions issues can still arise if you move the referenced files to new volumes or between volumes.
3. Most importantly, migrating to a new disk or computer can be much more complex.
4. Because iPhoto has no tools for managing Referenced Files, if, for some reason, the path to the photos changes then you could find yourself resolving aliases for +each photo in the Library+ one by one.
My own opinion:
I've yet to see a good reason to run iPhoto in referenced mode unless you're using two photo organisers
If disk space is an issue, you can run an entire iPhoto Library from an external disk:
1. Quit iPhoto
2. Copy the iPhoto Library as an entity from your Pictures Folder to the External Disk.
3. Hold down the option (or alt) key while launching iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Choose Library' and navigate to the new location. From that point on this will be the default location of your library.
4. Test the library and when you're sure all is well, trash the one on your internal HD to free up space.
If you're concerned about accessing the files, There are many, many ways to access your files in iPhoto:
*For Users of 10.5 and later*
You can use any Open / Attach / Browse dialogue. On the left there's a Media heading, your pics can be accessed there. Command-Click for selecting multiple pics.
Uploaded with plasq's Skitch!
You can access the Library from the New Message Window in Mail:
Uploaded with plasq's Skitch!
*For users of 10.4 and later* ...
Many internet sites such as Flickr and SmugMug have plug-ins for accessing the iPhoto Library. If the site you want to use doesn’t then some, one or any of these will also work:
To upload to a site that does not have an iPhoto Export Plug-in the recommended way is to Select the Pic in the iPhoto Window and go File -> Export and export the pic to the desktop, then upload from there. After the upload you can trash the pic on the desktop. It's only a copy and your original is safe in iPhoto.
This is also true for emailing with Web-based services. However, if you're using Gmail you can use iPhoto2GMail
If you use Apple's Mail, Entourage, AOL or Eudora you can email from within iPhoto.
If you use a Cocoa-based Browser such as Safari, you can drag the pics from the iPhoto Window to the Attach window in the browser.
*If you want to access the files with iPhoto not running*:
For users of 10.6 and later:
You can download a free Services component from MacOSXAutomation which will give you access to the iPhoto Library from your Services Menu. Using the Services Preference Pane you can even create a keyboard shortcut for it.
For Users of 10.4 and later:
Create a Media Browser using Automator (takes about 10 seconds) or use this free utility Karelia iMedia Browser
Other options include:
1. *Drag and Drop*: Drag a photo from the iPhoto Window to the desktop, there iPhoto will make a full-sized copy of the pic.
2. *File -> Export*: Select the files in the iPhoto Window and go File -> Export. The dialogue will give you various options, including altering the format, naming the files and changing the size. Again, producing a copy.
3. *Show File*: Right- (or Control-) Click on a pic and in the resulting dialogue choose 'Show File'. A Finder window will pop open with the file already selected.
*If you want to edit the photo in another application:*
You can set Photoshop (or any image editor) as an external editor in iPhoto. (Preferences -> General -> Edit Photo: Choose from the Drop Down Menu.) This way, when you double click a pic to edit in iPhoto it will open automatically in Photoshop or your Image Editor, and when you save it it's sent back to iPhoto automatically. This is the only way that edits made in another application will be displayed in iPhoto.
5) Any other tips for someone completely new to macs and iphoto?
*To Push Home a point*
For someone inexperienced with Macs and inexperienced with iPhoto I cannot stress enough that Managed Library is the way to go. I understand there is comfort in seeing all those folders. But inside the Library that's all there is: all those folders, stored so that an inexperienced user can't grub things up!
The iPhoto Library Folder is a Package File. This is simply a folder that looks like a file in the Finder. The change was made to the format of the iPhoto library because many users were inadvertently corrupting their library by browsing through it with other software or making changes in it themselves. Want to see inside?
Go to your Pictures Folder and find the iPhoto Library there. Right (or Control-) Click on the icon and select 'Show Package Contents'. A finder window will open with the Library exposed.
Standard Warning: Don't change anything in the iPhoto Library Folder via the Finder or any other application. iPhoto depends on the structure as well as the contents of this folder. Moving things, renaming things or otherwise making changes will prevent iPhoto from working and could even cause you to damage or lose your photos.
Now close that window and forget about it.
So, once you've imported your photos to iPhoto in a Managed Library, the surplus duplicates are +your folders+. Of course, in time, trash them to get back the wasted disk space. But don't do it today or tomorrow. There's no hurry. When you feel confident that you understand how iPhoto is working and that's it's working for you, theat's the time to reclaim the space.
I organize my pictures by folders with the month and year.
If you want to duplicate your Folder Tree in iPhoto:
Start at the bottom of the hierarchy and drag a folder of images to the Album Heading in iPhoto. The pics will be imported and an Album of the same name created.
You can then create the Enclosing Folders in the iPhoto Window (File -> New Folder) and drag the Album to it. Folders can contain other Folders (Nested Folders) and Albums.
However, is your folder system date based? Then this form of organisation is a bit pointless in iPhoto when Smart Albums or the Calendar tool (Click on the wee magnifying glass in the Search Box) mean you can find the photos taken on any day, month or year at a click. With Smart Albums it's easy to find photos from specific range - say, June 3 to August 25, 2009 etc.
If your folder system is theme based - Xmas pics, Birthday pics etc, then you'll find Keywords are much more flexible, and can be used in conjunction with other criteria for making Smart Albums and searches.
6) This is very silly, but how do I uninstall picasa (I know how to uninstall on a windows but want to make sure I do things correctly on my mac!)
Drag the app to the trash and empty it.
Regards
TD
v

ILife 08 to 09 iWeb question (and a question about DW while I'm here)

I was thinking of upgrading to iLife 09 for just a couple of reasons:
(1) The iPhoto face recognition feature looks cool and I want to try it. I have tens of thousands of photos of friends from nearly 30 years in my iPhoto and it might be fun.
(2) I basically like iWeb 08, but hate the way it deals with multiple sites. I always have to publish everything, but in iWeb 09 it looks like I can single out just a single site for publishing, even via FTP. is that right?
Recently I also acquired Dreamweaver because of some work I'm doing for a company. But I find I can't even do basic simple things, like drag around text or insert a web widget (some HTML in a box) to move around and position - like I can do in iWeb.
Are things like that possible in Dreamweaver?
I can't even figure out how to add new text somewhere on a blank page in Dreamweaver. And everything I create looks boxy, plain and clunky. I am obviously not a web designer - I am a web application programmer.
With Dreamweaver I feel like I stepped into some 20th century web authoring tool. With iWeb everything I create looks nice even though I have no artistic talent myself.
doug

I don't mind publishing to a folder and uploading using my FTP client, but it seems I have to publish ALL the sites each time to the folder and then just upload the one site's folder I was editing. So it takes a long time each time I publish to the folder. There is no way around that, is there?
About my DW question, it was "in comparison to iWeb". If I asked in a Dreamweaver forum if DW could do this thing that iWeb could do, somebody would probably say, "Why don;t you ask your question on an iWeb forum?"
Thanks,
doug@hoping this discussion doesn't digress into whether I should post my question here or not

Default values and other questions about MIO-PCI-16E-1

Hi, I have a few questions involving the above mentioned board.
First: When doing a data acquisition using an external digital trigger and an external clock, which edge of the clock signal is read by default?
What is the delay between a STARTSCAN signal being received and a CONVERT signal being generated (signifying an ADC convertion taking place?)
Finally, what exactly is the sample interval counter? What does it do? This is mentioned on page 4-32 in the E Series DAQ user manual.
Hopefully these questions aren't too stupid We're designing some custom circuitry to work with the DAQ, and for things to work the timing must be precise. We need ALL the timing details about a single data acquisition t
hat we can get.
The system we're running on has Labview 6.0.2, and we are only acquiring data from one analog input.
Thanks a ton!
--Randall Cameron

Hey Randall,
The internal Scan Clock is a rising edge clock, if you are interested in having the rising edge clock output as high until a scan is complete, please refer here. The internal Convert Clock is always falling edge clock.
If you are using an external signal, you can specify the polarity of the signal by selecting PFI pin, high to low, or low to high, if you are using the Clock Config VI. The method for setting the polarity changes based on the method of programming the card. And again, I do not know what the digital trigger defaults to, but you can select either polarity.
The delay between a Scan and a Convert is based on the Convert Clock.
Ideally, the delay is in the nanosecond range, and then the Convert Clock determines the spacing between any further samples.
As for the sample interval counter, the following is pasted from page 4-35.
�The sample interval counter on the PCI E Series device normally generates
the CONVERT* signal unless you select some external source. The counter
is started by the STARTSCAN signal and continues to count down and
reload itself until the scan is finished. It then reloads itself in preparation for
the next STARTSCAN pulse.�
So just let us know if you have any questions on getting the polarity set up, or if anything is not fully explained.
Best regards,
Justin T.
National Instruments

E71x problem, and a question about 'physical damag...

Hiya,
Soooo I got the E71x in June, and I loved it, until about a month ago, it started frustrating me non stop.
The phone will tell me that its battery is low after I've charged it completely, and have seen 5 bars worth of power for 30 mins;
it will turn off without shutting down, without alerting me
it will freeze, and won't turn off with the power button--the only thing to do is pull the battery out;
it will tell me the sim card isn't registered and then turn off
OR
the screen will go blank, turn white, and display a message that says 'Insert SIM card' when the sim card is already in, and hasn't been moved or anything;
the phone will die when I try to send text messages, call someone, or the first 30 seconds into a call;
whenever the phone dies on me, I have to pull the battery out & then turn the phone back on, and when I do so a ghost image of whatever i had been doing before the phone died (the text i was about to send, for instance, or the home screen, or the 'insert sim card' screen) will appear for a second, pixelate, then vanish.
I called AT&T, they do not believe that it is a charger or battery issue, since I've checked those anyway. My software is up to date, I've tried all the online troubleshooting tips. I've obviously dropped my phone before, who hasn't, but it was never anything *huge*, the phone never turned off because I dropped it, the battery never popped out, etc. It has fallen from my jeans to the floor, for example, that's about it. So there's no physical damage because of that. I have never gotten the phone wet;---the circle on the back of my battery is white, so it hasn't been exposed to liquid or heat or anything extreme. I don't think my warranty would be turned down for physical damage due to the above mentioned.
However, I have a question if anyone who works for Nokia reads these boards; my parrot removed the 'p' key from the keyboard--just the key, the pad underneath works fine and is untouched, i can still type the letter p and everything--but the 'p' key, just that one, is missing. I can't find it. Would I really be denied my 1 year warranty because of that? is there anyway I can buy a key to replace the 'p' key so that I could send my phone to AT&T? all it would need to be fixed is a tiny dab of glue. That's it. I will be very frustrated if I can't get my phone fixed within warranty because of that key; I would be forced to get another phone, and I don't think my choice would be another Nokia. Please let me know what I can do about this problem, it's getting ridiculous, I can't even answer phone calls without my first rushed sentence being 'my phone might hang up on you but i'll call you back' anymore.
HELP
Solved!
Go to Solution.

hahaha no, it's not the e71x, it is a piece of popcorn she DEVOURED. She LOVES popcorn. MMMmmmmMMMM she says. Haha.
@FastTortoise, I think a parrotlet might be a good fit for you, they were my pick because they have the same personality as a parrot (spunky, loving, fun, funny, etc) but they're TINY, and VERY quiet (comparatively::they've got nothing on cats). Check out this site for more info http://www.talkparrotlets.com/forum.php my name on there is brittany_lynn, you might be able to get my email from that site or from this, lemme know if you have ?'s or anything
P.S. All birds need a cage, a parrotlet just needs a smaller cage.

Lemode-mgz redirect and minor question about Macbook Air

First off, I just want to say that I've seen other threads about this same website, but none concerning my device. So just to be safe...
Heres some background knowledge. The next paragraph down will contain my actual question.
It was around 2:00 a.m., and according to my iPhone, it was January 5th. I'm someone who's been trying to get competitive in the new game Super Smash Bros. for Wii U, right? So I was looking up information on the character Olimar from the previous installment in the Super Smash Bros. series. The website I went to was supersmashbros.wiki.com. So, I'm looking up this information on different statistics of the character Olimar, and all of a sudden I go to "lemode-mgz.com," and I'm confronted with some article with a page title of "Doctor Oz Miracle Anti-Aging Treatment." And so I shut off my phone and go to sleep. In the morning I find that my iPhone says that I have website data for "track.securevoluum.com," a website I've never been to. Now when I type "tr" in safari, it says that track.securevoluum.com is now the URL of "Doctor Oz Miracle Anti-Aging Treatment," but yet my history says that the URL is still "lemode-mgz.com." I deleted my website data after that in system settings, so track.securevoluum doesn't appear in my website data. I haven't deleted my history though.
So my question is, did my phone get some of worm virus? I haven't really used Safari since that incident, but in the times I did, that website didn't pop up again. Also, if the iPhone is all foolproof virus free, why did the redirect happen in the first place? I'm using an iPhone 5c, version 8.0.2. And no, my phone is not jailbroken. I believe it is refurbished though, so that may contribute to an answer.
And if anyone would bother to answer this question, do Mac book Airs get Adware? For I visited the website smashboards.com, and it had some really sketchy Ads...I didn't click on any of them though. But when I go to Youtube occasionally some also sketchy looking Ads appear.

IF your phone isn't jailbroken then your phone doesn't have a worm virus.
As far as your MAC I don't know if they can get a virus or not, you can ask that question in the MAC forum to get a definite answer.

Voltage specs and international question about Airport Extreme (802.11n)

I'm about to travel to Korea to teach English for a year so I'm preparing all my electronic gear for the journey and I've come to a curious question involving the Airport Extreme with 802.11n.
First of all, I'm worried about voltage (Korea runs on 220v / 60Hz). For most hard drives (and Apple hardware in general it seems) the power supply is auto-switching 100-240v 50/60 Hz, but when I looked at the official specs for the Airport Extreme (hereafter AEBS) this info is conspicuously absent. The AEBS itself runs on 12V DC power, which is listed in the specs, but the input tolerance for the AC adapter isn't mentioned. I checked the specs for the Time Capsule since the hardware is presumably very similar and it is explicitly 100-240v. Likewise the replacement power supply available from Apple is listed as 100-240v, but since it is a replacement part I'm not sure if it is the exact same make as the adapter that ships with the AEBS in North America. If someone knows the definitive specs, I would appreciate an answer.
Secondly, when I tried searching the Korean Apple site (www.apple.co.kr) for specs on the Korean version of the AEBS to see if it was the same, I discovered that the Airport Extreme isn't available in Korea (although the Airport Express and Time Capsule). Does anyone know why this is? Is it possible the Airport Extreme doesn't comply with Korean wireless standards (I know the iPhone isn't being released in Korea because of laws about middleware that must be installed on cellular phones in Korea)? It seems safe given the availability of the Time Capsule in Korea, but does anyone have any specific knowledge about the Airport Extreme or Wi-fi regulations in Korea?
Sorry if this is a strange question, but I'd appreciate insight from the more experienced/advanced Apple users out there.
-Matt Tranquada

Thanks for the response. I guess what I would like to know is if I am closer to the newer 802.11n AE base station with my laptop, will it ignore the older base station and communicate directly with the stronger signal, or does it communicate with the weaker, more distant signal. Does the laptop automatically determine which base station has a stronger signal and choose it, or is it fixed which base station the laptop communicates with?

Fan and temp questions about 8 core

My 8 core Mac Pro was just delivered this morning and I have a couple questions. First, it runs quiet...much quieter than my parents quad G5. Intake and exhaust fan speeds at idle are 500/600 rpm respectively. That's about half of the quad G5. From Hardware Monitor, my core temps range from 132F to 145F which is much hotter than the 110-ish of the G5. One interesting thing to note is that CPU A heatsink is at 109 degrees while CPU B is over 125. It always runs 15-20 degrees cooler than the other. Does this look alright?
I ran some Cinebench and Altivec Fractal tests which also came up with some interesting results. The Altivec Fractal maxed out all cores. Their temps rose quickly to the 180-200 degree F range. Two of the cores got into the low 200's. The fans didn't even look like they had sped up yet. I closed the program in fear of doing any damage and took a look at the fan graph. The fans were actually starting to speed up after I quit the program. I ran the test again and the fans seemed to ramp up a lot faster than before and caught the cores at 200 degrees. Maybe they were a little lazy on the first try?
An comments would be appreciated. Other than that, I'm very happy with the performance of the octa-core.

They are thankfully very very quiet. The air coming out is hot none the less.
you might want to look into installing smcFanControl
http://www.versiontracker.com
which can be used to set higher default fan speed, as well as let you change it from menu bar to other settings / preferences.
I have settings for 750-1000-1500-2000 rpm. 1000 or less and it is still quiet.
Someone asked about max temps and 'frying' an Xeon, but apparently it is kind of a complex cpu, it has a number of built-in safeguards to shut itself down... but the Intel rep that someone emailed with wouldn't get into specifics.
I would worry about heat affecting drives and also an X1900. That think is good at pushing air out the back, but it also pulls in the internal (hot) air, and can pull fine dust etc into the sealed video card housing, which can be a problem of its own.
Always give the Mac Pro time to cool off before opening the doors. Those FBDIMMs don't like sudden shock stress of changes in temperatures.

Question about resolution of project vs. res of material to be imported

i am trying to put a project together that consists of still images (which i can prepare in any resolution) and some film material (avi and mov) which comes in the size of 640x480, square pixel aspect ratio.
what do i have to do in order to set up a new project in FCe to so i can import this film material and be able to create an output that can be burned on a dvd and will play on regular dvd players without distortion (would it need to become something like 720xsomething?)?
my available tools are FCe 3.5 and QTpro. any help will be appreciated!

ok! - the key hints about selecting "DVCPRO NTSC" and "select the motion tab and tweak the scale and aspect ratio settings" is probably what i was seeking...
i wonder what happens to the material when i change frame rate from 35 to 29.7 (i need to do this, right?)
some possible quality loss is not concerning me in this particular case because i will have sepia and heavy grain and stains as photoshop layers over the whole project to make it worn and look old. blurryness will be ok as long the jpg artefacts stay not too large and distinctly boxy.
i will try this out - thank you so far! frame rates and codecs are still a huge mystery for me. i am used to dealing with all kinds of resolutions for web or offset print use, there i have dimensions at a certain number of dots per inch and once the system is understood, it is easy to accomplish about anything.
i wonder if there is somewhere a source that lists video and film sizes, resolution frame rates and codecs and explains it all, along with examples when to use which...!

Verizon iPhone - mobile hotspot and other questions about the data options

I just ordered the Verizon iPhone. Can anyone explain the options here:
1) Unlimited corporate email & Web (business and personal email) vs. Unlimited email and web for smartphones (personal email) - what's the difference?
2) "3G Mobile Hotspot 2GB" - does this mean that there's no way I can share my 3G connection via wifi without paying the extra $20/month?? How about tethering to a single computer (USB, BT, or WiFi) - does that also require this extra option?
3) equipment protection - what's the difference between Extended Warranty, Asurion Wireless Phone Protection, and Total Equipment Coverage?
thanks in advance,
Mike

Hi
Regarding your #2 question; yes, you must pay $20/mo to use the 3G Hotspot aspect of the iPhone, same as with any of Verizon's phones that offer this feature such as the Droid X, HTC phones, etc. And, there is NO additional charge to tether it to your computer; it's $20/mo regardless. You can still use the iPhone's WiFi feature to search the web which is part of the regular data plan. We're only talking about paying the $20/mo for the "up to 5 devices" jumping on your phone as a hot spot.
I'm an Apple fan, have my MacBook Pro, but my phone is a Droid X. I've been a Verizon member since a year before they became Verizon. Additionally, I am part of the Verizon & Motorola test forum; testing new software updates as they come along.
Something you should know about Verizon's 3G Hot Spot feature; it has issues. Those of us in the Motorola & HTC forums have experienced identical issues with regard to the 3G Hot Spot feature; it disconnects every 2 minutes, even when you are actively surfing the net. Verizon & Motorola Support have been very helpful to provide what they believe are fixes, including: changing the channel, hard resets, clearing cache, etc. It does not work. Most of us believe, this is NOT a Verizon issue, but a phone maker issue.
I also have Verizon's MiFi 2200. It costs $59/mo and is purely a hot spot device; again up to 5 devices. I use it at home, for my lap top and for those who need connectivity. It outperforms the 3G hot spot feature of the Motorola & HTC phones by leaps & bounds, and I suspect it will out perform the 3G hot spot feature on the iPhone. Additionally, you get 5GB of download with the MiFi which Verizon is planning on offering increases to 8GB & 10GB. There is NO plan to increase the 2GB download limitation on the 3G Hot spot of the iPhone & other phones, and anyone who does basic software downloads & pics, knows 2GBS is not a lot space.
So, I would recommend not paying the $20 until this is resolved. If you do, you could pay $39 more for a total of $59/mo for the MiFi, download the software to you home computer & notebook, and end up canceling your home internet service. I did this and have saved $70/mo in my total utilities.
One other important note: Verizon's VZManager Software for their phones & MiFi. If you did pay the $20/mo for the iPhone and decided to tether to your USB port (for power while using) and you were to use the 3G hot spot feature, it will NOT work on 64 Bit computers, regardless if you are using the WiFi feature or directly using VZManager. The MiFi has this same issue. It will only work on 32 Bit when tethered. So, you'd have to reboot your computer to 32 Bit, if you have that ability. On a Macbook Pro, simply restart holding down the "3" & "2" keys.
I have no idea why Verizon can't simply upgrade the firmware, even recent firmware upgrades have not resolved this. Most new computers are 64 Bit now.
Despite this, I use my MiFi 100% untethered and carry my charge cord in my bag as it also works on my Droid, and I presume they may do the same for the iPhone; reduces the need for multiple power cords.
I really looked forward to the 3G feature of the Motorola & HTC phones, but honestly, it's just not there yet; mine was slower than Dial Up, and I'm not kidding.

Fan problem on L645-S4036 (temporary fix and a question about it)

Ok, after some days of usage on this laptop, I have found that the fan only goes to 95% of usage when I'm playing, which is normal I think... BUT also goes crazy when I turn on the laptop, and I don't use for about 15 minutes, even if the temp is just fine, with no software running on the background.
If I use it, the problem doesn't show up at all...
The only way to turn it off and lower it to about 45% (if the computer is not hot), or 0% (is so nice like that... No noise at all), is suspending the laptop, and turning it up again. Really strange thing.
I guess is a problem with the BIOS, or the temp calculation of it. Do anyone know if Toshiba is working on a BIOS update for this issue?
I'm happy with this laptop, the battery which is faulty, lasts about 2.3 hours, not 3.9 hours as said at the specifications (not a problem, warranty is supposed to bring me a working replacement... Doing it tomorrow) and the fan noise are the only problems I have found after a month of use.
I hope the temporary fix helps a bit...If anyone knows another way to fix it, reply me, because third party software didn't worked for me.
Thanks a lot!

I have TOSHIBA Sattelite L300. I have same problem. I installed SpeedFan to monitor CPU temp. I found something CRAZY about toshiba conception on temp. regulation!!! The fan stops when temperature of CPU goes under 30 degrees !!!!!!!! UN BELIEVABLE!!! It's very hard to be done... I can achieve this VERY HARD! In the room temp is 20 degr., outside is 10 deg. the laptop is on the table... cpu usage 1-2% !!!! Fan goes on AND NEVER STOPS, temp of cpu stays constantly at 35 deg. I pickup the laptop in air, or put a remote control of TV under front side, and miracle!!!! after a few minutes the temp goes to 29 deg and fan stops (of course if you standby and resume, fan stops too). But not for long... the temp. of cpu starts growing. first the temp grows fast, then it almost stops growing about 45 deg. and you say wow super! But than suddenly fan start (about 45 deg.) if it didn't start... the cpu temp wouldn't rise above 55 deg.
I have another LAPTOP, Sony Vaio, I installed SpeedFan to monitor CPU temp too... This machine has a very different conception about cooling... I can't hear it FAN ever... Tha speedfan shows this: When you use machine actively, the cpu stays about 70 deg. tha fan speed varies very smooth (not on a steps like the toshiba laptop) and when you not using CPU actively, the fan speed drops to a very slow level, almost can't hear it... have to put my ear near to where the air goes out... and from this quiet speed, the cpu temps goes down slowly, and when it's about 60 deg. tha fan stops at all... and what I see in speedfan is that cpu temps raise very slowly to about 65 deg. (this is when the laptop is over me (not on the table with remote control for more air :-) ) the fan never start if I'm not using CPU actively and the temp stays about 65 deg., when I start using cpu a little more activily the fan starts at 74 deg (at lowest speed, not like the toshiba "Buuuu... buu... bbb" - on a few steps to the lowest level starting from high) and can't hear the fan is working, just see how the temp starts falling... and when achieves 60 deg. STOPS (but you can't hear it at all). So the concept is that when you are not using a CPU actively... the CPU can cool WITHOUT FAN RUNNING (at about 50-60 deg. PLEASE TEST IT). So I think TOSHIBA MUST DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT... I can't believe that engineers thinks that every 5 min. temp. jumps from 30 to 45 deg, from 45 to 30 and this is 24/7 (if you put your remote control under laptop and you live in a cool country where outside is 10 deg. and inside is 20). Instead of CPU at constant (or at least slowly changing) temp. This is not good for any machine (cooling, heating, cooling, heating... this is bad for machinery). The problem could be solved just by changing fan on temp to 74 and fan off to 65 deg. for an example...
So I wait for a new BIOS version SOON, with updated values...
Thank you! in advance...
Other wise... NO CHOICE... change your laptop with a one with a better cooling concept...
If any one needs more info or what ever, please feel free to contact me...

Thousand and first question about resolution

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