Time is inaccurate...

I am using iTouch for astronomical logging, yet its time seems to always be off by 30 seconds or more. Is there a way to tell it to set its time to network time upon waking?

I also am looking for a way to have the time set on my iPod touch to a network time server. I have found that synching with a Mac does not adjust the iPod's time at all.

Similar Messages

  • Agent real time display not ready time is inaccurate

    Agent Not Ready Detail in Webview-Agent Realtime Reports in CAD.
    I am looking at the agent: Agent Not Ready Detail Report in Webview and comparing this to the Agent Real Rime Display in CAD. If I manually add the Not Ready times (state durations) from the agent ACD state log, they equate to the Cisco Web View agent report. However, the Total Not Ready column from the Agent Detail Display report in CAD does not sync up with either Webview or CAD. Its more than an hour off.
    The Eastern managers are looking closely at these numbers now and one of the agents questioned the report in CAD today and brought this to a manager's attention. It is more than an hour off which is a big difference.
    It was comparing the state duration for not ready from the ACD State Log Display (for example the 5 seconds at 10:15:04 in screen shot 1) to the total not ready time from the Agent Real Time Display Displays report (3:48:59 in screen shot 2). The total individual state durations of unavailable time from report #1 does not equal report #2 and I would think it should. If not explain why?
    From CAD client > Real Time Displays > Agent ACD State Log Display. If you add up all the Not Ready times and compare with webview, it matches. No problem here.
    From CAD client > Real Time Displays > Agent Detail Display (this doesnt match up with webview report or the total Not Ready times in Agent ACD State Log Display).
    We're looking to know either
    1. How exactly the not ready state time is calculated
                   OR
    2. Where to find the information on how this is deteremined.
    I appreaciate any response. Thank you.

    Is it all agents or only one/some?
    What does CSD show? Can you post a screenshot of the CSD main screen for a team?
    Also, please post the traces from Desktop Recording and Statistics Server.

  • Time proportional graph

    I've probably missed a preference box somewhere but this problem has been bugging me, especially as Excel resolves it automatically. This single problem is stopping me from using Numbers as my only spreadsheet.
    I can't get Numbers to produce a graph proportional to the varied dates that I take the measurements. Here's a simple example:
    Imagine you have a tree that grows at 1cm a day
    You measure it on the first day of every month.
    In June you decide to measure it once a week but revert to once a month when you discover it is still growing 1cm a day.
    If you now plot a graph with all your measurements (weekly and monthly) for the year, excel will give you a nice straight line because it automatically takes into account the variation in the measuring dates.
    How do I get Numbers to understand this and stop giving me graphs with uneven and misrepresentative steps in it?
    I have put an image of the two graphs here:
    http://www.tickle.it/CARGO/Tree.jpg
    Thanks for any help received
    TB

    TBlackthorne wrote:
    If there is no way of correcting this, any line graph showing a value over time is inaccurate because months have different lengths. If Numbers is incapable of making that simple distinction it would only be a toy for me to occasionally pretty up proper excel spreadsheets.
    It's really boring to respond to someone which doesn't read what we wrote!
    I wrote:
    It's an odd one because we can't insert intermediate value to 'normalize' the steps.
    I thought that it was clear enough. Numbers is unable to achieve what you ask for.
    This is why I urged you to send a feedback to the Numbers team. Writing that it is a toy (why is just your advice, no less no more) in the forum is perfectly useless because it will not be read by an Apple engineer.
    Yvan KOENIG (from FRANCE mercredi 10 septembre 2008 16:29:16)

  • Resetting the date and time after the phone has be...

    Hi,
    I keep having to reset the date and time very time I turn my phone off. I was thinking it was to do with the battery so I fully charged it, turned it off then turned it on again and it asks me for the date and time.
    I only noticed this because I've had exams and I have to turn my phone off for them.
    Could it be a dying internal battery?
    I know with computers there's a BIOS battery that controls date and time. When they start to die the date and time are inaccurate.
    I'll have to find time to take it to the 3-Mobile shop either on Sunday or sometime next week if it is an internal battery problem.
    Thanks,
    Omar
    "A Jade stone is useless before it is processed; a man is good-for-nothing until he is educated."

    Hi omar3256
    I believe that there is a very small component on the motherboard which serves this purpose, although whether battery or sort of capacitor I am not certain. The N80 especially seemed to be prone to this failure.
    Happy to have helped forum in a small way with a Support Ratio = 37.0

  • How do I batch restore the time on my NY images to 6 hours earlier in Aperture?

    Hi,
    I think my camera is stuck on European time. Batch changes only seem to deal with time zones and I don't know how to use that to achieve what I need.
    Thanks,
    Raphael

    Aperture ha stwo time adjustments:
    One adjustment is for correcting the Time Zone: If your camera was set to a different timezone then the actual time, you use "Metadata > Batch Change"
    You set "Camera's Time Zone" to the Time Zone your Camera has been set to, when you took the pictures.
    You set "Actual Time Zone" to the Time Zone you want the images to show.
    For example: If your camera is stuck on European time, but you took the pictures in London, set the "Camera's Time Zome" to "MET" (Paris) and the Actual Time to GMT (London).
    The second adjustment is for correcting inaccuracies. If your camera's time is inaccurate - e.g. off by several minutes, you can correct that by "Metadata > Adjust Date and Time". The panel will show the current time for one of the images and you can adjust this to the correct time. All other selected images will be adjusted by the same amount.
    Regards
    Léonie

  • IMessage: intermittent delay in sending

    I sent a message at 8:55 pm to a friend using iMessage saying that I would be arriving at his house in about 15 minutes. I watched the SMS go - no alert of any kind that it had been delayed. When I arrived at his house, he still had not received the message. We checked phones and while doing this, my message arrived on his phone at 9:09 (i.e. 14 minute delay). I then checked my phone, and it said the message had been sent at 9:07 or 2 minutes before he received it. This clearly wasn't the case. Other times it has been fine.  But this strikes me as a serious situation because 1) the data the phone shows about sending and receiving times is inaccurate and incorrect,(and texts can be used as legal evidence),  2) the intermittent nature of this situation makes it highly unreliable, so gives me little faith in the operating system if such a fundamental function as texting works only intermittenly and 3) there has been no official response to this from Apple, although numerous people have identified the problem over the past months.
    Any suggestions? For the mean time, I've tuned iMessage off.

    Thanks for replying.
    My friend's phone was definitely online, as we had pre-arranged that I would message before I left to say I was on my way, This is also not the first time this has happened, so I'm pretty sure there was not an offline cause.
    I have changed my Caller ID to my Apple ID rather than my phone number, as you suggested, so I will see whether this fixes the problem. Because it is intermittent, it will take a while to check. For interest, why would my Apple ID work better than my mobile number?
    Thanks.

  • I didn't receive my back to school 2012 gift card

    I ordered a MBP Retina through the online education store on July 1 which comes a free $100 back to school gift card. The next day I received a shippment notification that says the gift card has shipped on July 2 and I will receive it on July 6. The problem is that it's been more than one week and I still didn't receive my gift card, and Apple has charged me $100 on my credit card. I have no idea what is going on and where my gift card is.
    p.s. the carrier is DHL express, and there is no tracking number for the gift card

    Just called the Apple customer service this morning, they said there is a delay in the shipping and the estimated delivery time is inaccurate. The gift card should arrive by the end of this week or next Monday, if not, they will just send me the redeem code via email. They also said the $100 that has been charged on my credit card will be deducted from the price of the MBP Retina eventually.
    Just gonna wait and see what will happen next and Thanks for the help.

  • Wait ms Timer Multiple returning inaccurate timer value

    We are using the Wait Until Next ms Multiple Timer value to set the interval that data is recorded to a file. Because of Windows 2000 time indeterminancy, the Wait Until Next ms Multiple Timer value is written to file, along with the data point, and is used to calculate the derivative between two successive points. With a delay of 1 sec (1000 ms), the actual interval ranges from 1025 to 1035 ms. At several (random!) points during the acquisition, the difference between successive ms values is considerably smaller than 1000 ms (e.g. 15-25 ms). The following difference compensates for the previous error e.g. the difference will be 2025-2055ms. The data that we are recording is a smoothly continuou
    s function and it appears that the sample is actually recorded at approximately 1000 plus ms. Thus it appears that the Wait Until Next ms Multiple waits the appropriate amount of time to record the data point, but outputs an erroneous ms timer value. We added a ms Timer function to the VI, which also experienced a similar glitch. This glitch does not correspond to the wraparound point; it occurs at approximately 60 to 130 sec intervals. We took the timing code only (no data acquisition, etc) and created a VI that wrote just the time values to a file. This is attached, along with the generated data in a spreadsheet. This consistently executed every 1000 ms but occasionally confused the intervals by 1-57 ms. The pattern was reversed from the previous problem by having a long interval and then a short interval. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
    Attachments:
    CollectingSampleData.vi ‏47 KB
    Create_XCoord.vi ‏25 KB
    sampledata.xls ‏91 KB

    Agree completely but why can't LV provide access to the windows multimedia
    timer like LabWindows does? Provide me a timer, I can start/stop by changing
    its properties and run that in a separate thread. Obviously if I have
    another thread starving this timer thread, it won't help much but using
    multi-media timer, I have seen very good results on a windows2000 machine.
    Now win95/98 and derivatives are all other story.
    vishi
    "Al S" wrote in message
    news:[email protected]..
    > There are a couple of things going on that affect your results.
    > 1. Windows is not a real-time operating system. As it multi-tasks,
    > you have little control over when it gives time to your application.
    > Loop times may vary depend
    ing on what else Windows decides during that
    > iteration. Especially when doing file I/O: if your disk is busy, a
    > loop interation may take longer. Windows may also be doing some disk
    > buffering, so occasionally a loop interation may take much longer than
    > usual as the buffered data from multiple loop interations gets written
    > to disk.
    > 2. Wait Until Next ms Multiple doesn't garuntee equal loop times.
    > With the millisecond multiple input set to 1000, if one iteration
    > starts with the PC's clock at xx:xx:xx.001, Wait Until Next ms
    > Multiple will wait 0.999 seconds. If an iteration starts with the
    > PC's clock at xx:xx:xx.999, Wait Until Next ms Multiple will wait
    > 0.001 seconds.
    > 3. In your main loop, you check to see if the millisecond timer value
    > * 60 equals the desired Length of Data Collection. If your loop
    > doesn't execute every millisecond, you may miss the equals case and
    > then your loop won't stop. You should check >= rather than just =.

  • Time machine causing inaccurate disc space readout

    Hi,
    there's clearly a bug with relation to time machine as my hard drive disc space readout is continuously giving ridiculous readouts (and this changes as time machine is doing its thing)
    Currently it says i have 2 petabytes free! on my 500gb SSD (I wish!).  Turning time machine off and on again gives me back the correct reading. But it doesn't last for long (well until the next time machine backup).
    Is there any way to fix this? or is there any was we can notify Apple of this bug, as its quite annoying not knowing how much free space I have left
    thanks guys!
    N

    don't think ill be switching OS in a hurry!
    I meant rather using a reliable version of OS X.. eg your profile version.. Mountain Lion.. works pretty well for me!!
    Not as good as Snow Leopard but OK..
    I would do a CC to the time capsule, but I've read somewhere thats its not totally recommended to copy any other files to the TC data disc if you're running a time machine as well. Do you have any thoughts on this?
    You can do CCC to a sparsebundle.. that is identical to the way Time Machine works..
    In fact using sparsebundle on a network disk is the recommended method for CCC.. and it can co-exist very happily with TM..
    The reference to not mixing data and TM backups is more to do with placing files directly on the data partition of the TC.. And is still good advice.. although there are workarounds.
    I would however do at least one CCC backup to a USB drive plugged into your computer.. called a bootable clone. You do not need to do this on a regular basis.. but even just having one proper bootable clone.. alongside the network backups will allow you to restore your computer to operational status in about 2 min.. the time it takes to boot the bootable clone.
    Macs are difficult to get to boot over network.. that is why it needs to be a local disk.

  • Inaccurate Times for Songs

    I recently made a 30+ song in GarageBand and imported it to iTunes. I cut it in half to make two separate tracks, but the time is still listed at 30+ minutes. The songs begin where they should and end at the specific time, but time is not reflected. I tried to make a playlist to see if they were cut, and the two tracks in the list equal over an hour. Confused to the max.

    Changing the start and stop times and then converting the song, will create a new copy with the length set by those times.
    So you can use iTunes to split a track.
    You can even 'convert' to the same format (e.g. AIFF to AIFF)
    M

  • Nokia Drive 3.0: Inaccurate Distances & Drive Time...

    Whenever I create a route it shows a much longer drive time than is realistic: for example, my daily commute takes typically 20 minutes, yet the app will forecast 35 minutes! It is only within the last few minutes/miles that the time to go becomes more realistic.
    Whereas creating the same route with, say, the AA or RAC route planners, these come up with accurate times.
    When a route is saved as a favourite, the distance shown is much less than that shown when the route is actually created & being followed, for example, my daily commute is approx 12 miles in each direction, which is correctly shown when driving the route. However, when I view this route in 'favourites' it shows approx 9 miles which I am guessing is a straight line distance.
    Can you please update the accuracy in both cases?

    Nokia ovi maps was a good software with some minor flaws which i had hoped would be solved in the wonderful 'nokia drive' software. Thus i bought a lumia800. Obviously Nokia Drive was only designed so Nokia could claim they have a free navigation software. I think, they hope that after 10 seconds every user will realize, that it is useless and buy 'Navigation Europe' (45€) (which is still not as good as ovi maps used to be.)
    You cannot chose fastest/shortest/optimised route, so nokia drive basically always goes for the next motorway, even if it is a major detour and/or takes longer.
    If you leave the route it keeps trying to get back on the route, even if your destination is 50 meters straight ahead
    destination input is awkward and lacks the option to pick a destination on the map
    You cannot chose to avoid toll roads
    You can only add a favorite on your current position
    You can only add maps country by country
    Voice commands with street names are not availablea
    Offline search for the simplest things like 'gas station' does not yield useful results - a poi database (like in ovi maps) is not available
    And i do not expect that any of the next updates will solve any of these issues, else nobody would buy the navigation europe software.
    so as things are now i would recommend to buy any other phone with gps and buy some navi-software. 'free nokia navigation' is not an argument for anything.
    So disappointing!

  • WRT 1900ac Router Time Inaccurate

    Current local time for me is 11:07 pm
    Router Time listed on wireless scheduler is 4:54:47 am
    This means that wireless schedule is complete off from reality
    Anyone know how this is fixed? 

    Make sure the router firmware is up to date. During the upgrade it should pull the right time from the Linksys server.
    Please remember to Kudo those that help you.
    Linksys
    Communities Technical Support

  • Help ! inaccurate time recorded using javax.swing.timer

    Hi All,
    I am currently trying to write a stopwatch for timing application events such as loggon, save, exit ... for this I have created a simple Swing GUI and I am using the javax.swing.timer and updating a the time on a Jlabel. The trouble that I am having is that the time is out by up to 20 seconds over a 10 mins. Is there any way to get a more accruate time ?? The code that I am using is attached below.
    private Timer run = new Timer(1000, new ActionListener() {
    public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent evt) {
    timeTaken.setText("<html><font size = 5><b>" + (df.format(timeHours)) + ":" + (df.format(timeMins)) + ":"
    + (df.format(timeSeconds++)) + "</b></font><html>");
    receordedTimeValue = ((df.format(timeHours)) + ":" + (df.format(timeMins)) + ":"
    + (df.format(timeSeconds)));
    if (timeSeconds == 60) {
    timeMins++;
    timeSeconds = 0;
    if (timeMins == 60) {
    timeHours++;
    timeMins = 0;

    To get more accurate time you should use the System.currentTimeMillis() method.
    Try this code :
    import java.util.*;
    import java.awt.*;
    import java.awt.event.*;
    import javax.swing.*;
    public class CountUpLabel extends JLabel{
         javax.swing.Timer timer;
         long startTime, count;
         public CountUpLabel() {
              super(" ", SwingConstants.CENTER);
              timer = new javax.swing.Timer(500, new ActionListener() { // less than or equal to 1000 (1000, 500, 250,200,100) 
                   public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent event) {
                        if (startTime == -1) {          
                             count = 0;               
                             startTime = System.currentTimeMillis();
                        else {
                             count = System.currentTimeMillis()-startTime;
                        setText(getStringTime(count));
         private static final String getStringTime(long millis) {
              int seconds = (int)(millis/1000);
              int minutes = (int)(seconds/60);
              int hours = (int)(minutes/60);
              minutes -= hours*60;
              seconds -= (hours*3600)+(minutes*60);
              return(((hours<10)?"0"+hours:""+hours)+":"+((minutes<10)?"0"+minutes:""+minutes)+":"+((seconds<10)?"0"+seconds:""+seconds));
         public void start() {
              startTime = -1;
              timer.setInitialDelay(0);
              timer.start();
         public long stop() {
              timer.stop();
              return(count);
         public static void main(String[] args) {
              JFrame frame = new JFrame("Countdown");
              CountUpLabel countUp = new CountUpLabel();
              frame.getContentPane().add(countUp, BorderLayout.CENTER);
              frame.setBounds(200,200,200,100);
              frame.setVisible(true);
              countUp.start();
    Denis

  • Inaccurate Journey Times - N95 Maps v3.0

    When driving to a destination, I sometimes use a personally preferred route at the start of my journey that is different to the Nokia Maps route.  This results in an increased calculation of journey time.  However, as I am usually taking a known short cut, this actually results in a shorter journey time.  As the journey progresses, Maps then does a progressive ongoing adjustment until it has the right arrival time.  This correction can be as much as 10-15 minutes on a one hour journey.  Is this a known bug in the currect version and has anbody else had the same problem?

    This is actually a fact of life with all sat nav sav systems. I use a few sat navs regularly including a Garmin Nuvi and the BMW iDrive sat nav. It is normal for sat nav's to predict higher journey times. Maybe because they make some kind of allowance for traffic etc. The predicted ETA corrects and gets more accurate as you drive.

  • IPhone 4S Battery Life: Best solutions and procedures for 1st time user: 1-Do you have a battery life issue (learn first what the usage time spec is about) 2-What can you try to remedy the situation without reading 500 pages of posts

    What follows is a grouping of some of the most fruitful procedures - from what I've seen in the biggest battery life issue thread - and some background information and discussion for solving or improving the battery life with the iPhone 4S and may be applicable also to devices on which iOS 5.0/5.0.1 has been applied. Credit goes to the respective users who contributed this information to the forum and they should be commended for doing so. This is not a final listing. The goal here is to provide a first stop sort of knowledge base document for newcomers instead of having them perusing the never ending threads where the wheel is reinvented on every page...
    Please don't post your questions, usage screenshots, or claims that it worked or not for you or anything here except PROCEDURES/DEBUG STEPS/SOLUTIONS or improvements to the procedures already listed here. Try to use point form and to be as concise and clear as possible. Hope all this helps.
    Thank you and good luck!
    General info and specs
    First, take a look Apple's battery tips, info and specs(obligatory reading for all Iphone 4S users - read it once and for all):
    http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html
    http://www.apple.com/batteries/
    ... you didn't read it? loll Always remember this i.e. the definition of "usage":
    Usage: Amount of time iPhone has been awake and in use since the last full charge.  The phone is awake when you’re on a call, using email, listening to music, browsing the web, or sending and receiving text messages, or during certain background tasks such as auto-checking email.
    I'm still not convinced you read the links so here's what Apple has to say in terms of fine tuning your battery life:
    Optimize your settings
    Depending on how they are configured, a few features may decrease your iPhone battery life.  For example, the frequency with which you retrieve email and the number of email accounts you auto-check can both affect battery life. The tips below apply to an iPhone running iOS 5.0 or later and may help extend your battery life.
    Minimize use of location services: Applications that actively use location services such as Maps may reduce battery life. To disable location services, go to Settings > General > Location Services or use location services only when needed.
    Turn off push notifications: Some applications from the App Store use the Apple Push Notification service to alert you of new data. Applications that extensively rely on push notifications (such as instant messaging applications) may impact battery life. To disable push notifications, go to Settings > Notifications and set Notifications to Off. Note that this does not prevent new data from being received when the application is opened. Also, the Notifications setting will not be visible if you do not have any applications installed that support push notifications.
    Fetch new data less frequently: Applications such as Mail can be set to fetch data wirelessly at specific intervals.  The more frequently email or other data is fetched, the quicker your battery may drain. To fetch new data manually, from the Home screen choose Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Manually. To increase the fetch interval, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Hourly. Note that this is a global setting and applies to all applications that do not support push services.
    Turn off push mail: If you have a push mail account such as Yahoo! or Microsoft Exchange, turn off push when you don’t need it. Go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and set Push to Off. Messages sent to your push email accounts will now be received on your phone based on the global Fetch setting rather than as they arrive.
    Auto-check fewer email accounts: You can save power by checking fewer email accounts. This can be accomplished by turning off an email account or by deleting it. To turn off an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and set Account to Off. To remove an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and tap Delete Account.
    Turn off Wi-Fi: If you rarely use Wi-Fi, you can turn it off to save power. Go to Settings > Wi-Fi and set Wi-Fi to Off. Note that if you frequently use your iPhone to browse the web, battery life may be improved by using Wi-Fi instead of cellular data networks.
    Turn off Bluetooth: If you rarely use a Bluetooth headset or car kit, you can turn off Bluetooth to save power.  Go to Settings > General > Bluetooth and set Bluetooth to Off.
    Use Airplane Mode in low- or no-coverage areas: Because your iPhone always tries to maintain a connection with the cellular network, it may use more power in low- or no-coverage areas.  Turning on Airplane Mode can increase battery life in these situations; however, you will be unable to make or receive calls.  To turn on Airplane Mode, go to Settings and set Airplane Mode to On.
    Adjust brightness: Dimming the screen is another way to extend battery life.  Go to Settings > Brightness and drag the slider to the left to lower the default screen brightness. In addition, turning on Auto-Brightness allows the screen to adjust its brightness based on current lighting conditions.  Go to Settings > Brightness and set Auto-Brightness to On.
    Turn off EQ: Applying an equalizer setting to song playback on your iPhone can decrease battery life.  To turn EQ off, go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Off. Note that if you’ve added EQ to songs directly in iTunes, you’ll need to set EQ on iPhone to Flat in order to have the same effect as Off because iPhone keeps your iTunes settings intact.  Go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Flat.
    Usage specs for the 4S - http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html:
    Talk time: Up to 8 hours (12.5% per hour drain) on 3G, up to 14 hours (7.1% per hour drain) on 2G (GSM)
    Standby time: Up to 200 hours (0.5% per hour drain)
    Internet use: Up to 6 hours on 3G (16.6% per hour drain), up to 9 hours (11.1% per hour drain) on Wi-Fi
    Video playback: Up to 10 hours (10% per hour drain)
    Audio playback: Up to 40 hours (2.5% per hour drain)
    So a scenario of normal usage could be for example: 4 heavy hours of 3G internet browsing (66.4%), with one hour of call on 3G (12.5%) and 22 hours of standby (11%) = 100%
    A battery life issue is a problem where the drain is really out of spec either during usage or standby or both. For example, multi-% per minute drain during usage or a 10% drain per hour during standby is problematic. Browsing the internet on 3G during one hour and losing 16-17% is not.
    Apple's test methodology for claiming the specs:
    http://www.apple.com/iphone/battery.html
    Procedures
    davidch tips (reset+full discharge recharge):
    Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
    1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
    2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
    3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
    4. Fully discharge battery  (tilll it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
    5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
    In my experience this improves the Standby battery drain issue significantly in most cases.  It reduces drain from 2-4% or more per hr to 0.5% or less. It has worked for many, many users now. If it does not work after a few try's you may have a real battery or hardware issue and should contact Apple.  Good Luck!
    ram130's variant of davidch i.e. additional steps:
    Now using davidch original steps and attaching the tweaks I made to get me more usage. As shown on page 29.
    Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
    1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
    2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
    3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
    4. Fully discharge battery  (till it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
    5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
    6. Disable Siri 'Raise To Speak' and REBOOT *( if possible use another camera to verify the                 infrared is off after the reboot).
    7. Set emails, icloud and calendars to fetch. ** test. Mines on hourly.
    8. If your in a no signal and your phone is saying "Searching..." even after 10mins, reboot while in that area and after 1-2min it should say "No Service". This mainly applies to Verizon customers and improve battery life in these areas.
    9. *optional* Goto Settings > General > Network and you will see "Hotspot.." loading something, wait a few seconds and it should say "setup personal hotspot" then exit out.
    * I notice a great improvement after disabling this and rebooting. This increased my "screen on" usage or at least helped it. Make the change.
    ** I have not tested push yet to narrow down the drain but I had this change on my phone. I believe exchange push is responsible for some stand by drain. As for icloud, haven't notice much of a difference. Just try it for a day. My email still came in fast most times. Again still testing, will report back on these..
    buxbuster tips(wifi sync, iCloud):
    These are my own tested workarounds that worked for my iPhone 4S and seemed to have worked for others as well :
    Workaround number 1. Deselect wifi-sync in iTunes and press sync.
    If that doesn't work try :
    Workaround number 2 : Remove iCloud, reset network settings. ( I guess this won't work for you since you don't have it enabled ).
    If both workarounds fail, you can always try to completely wipe your phone. That also solved some of the cases out there.
    rolandomerida tips - i.e. buxbuster and additional steps:
    Finally, I solved the syncing error loop. My contacts are syncing flawessly again between my devices and iCloud, and yes, the battery stopped draining, which is the main topic here.
    I followed instructions from buxbuster (check his workaround a few pages up!) and an additional BIG step to restore contacts and syncing, as seen in a MacRumors forum.
    This is what I did:
    1. Make a backup of your Address Book, using the vCard option (or both, it doesn't hurt). Save it for later.
    2. In your iPhone, delete iCloud account. When it asks, accept both: delete AND delete from my iPhone.
    3. Reset network settings. The iPhone will restart, then will ask you to unlock the SIM card.
    4.Turn Wi-Fi on.
    5. Add the iCloud account again.
    That's for Buxbuster's workaround. For some, it might work just like that. My iPhone repopulated from iCloud after step 5, but I still had that "server error" on iCloud. I had to do some extra steps, since my Mac was not syncing to iCloud and couldn't edit anything on my Mac or iCloud. Syncing back had to be fixed, too. If not, the syncing loop would continue from my iPhone, and the battery would drain awfully again.
    1. In System Preferences -> iCloud, I turned Contacts off. I chose "keep on My Mac" those contacts, but I got an empty Address Book after a while. And a few minutes later, iCloud contacts were empty and my iPhone also. It is scary at first! Now, before importing that vCard backup...
    2. Turn Wi-Fi off. This is important, since your contact-empty iCloud will attempt to wipe your Address Book from your Mac in seconds after importing.
    3. Import your vCard backup to Address Book. Just drag it to your blank Address Book window; it asks if you want to import "x" number of cards. Of course, say yes.
    4. Turn Wi-Fi on, and then iCloud contacts on again (System Preferences -> iCloud). It will offer to merge your newly populated Address Book with iCloud (which is empty at this point). It should upload every single contact to iCloud, and then to your iDevices. If not, a fifth step would be to import the vCard file to iCloud, but it shouldn't be necessary.
    So, with iCloud syncing working correctly, there is no battery draining! Again, that was my particular issue.
    I can't tell if this is the single answer to the widely spread battery draining problem, but it sure can be fixed with these workarounds, and yes, Apple should address the problem with a future update, for we affected customers don't need workarounds in the first place
    This is the MacRumors discussion:
    http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1256807
    And dont' forget to check buxbuster's fix, video, and THANK him!
    Miless tips (full 800mb release of 5.0.1 and sanitizing a restore):
    As for 4S battery life. Try doing this,
    1. Settings>Location Service ... disable all location services you do not need. In particularly Facebook because it drains the battery a lot.
    Scroll down to the bottom at Settings>Location services>System Services ... Disable Setting Time zone, location based iAds, Diagnostic & Usage.
    2. Settings>Notification>Calendar ... turn off the Notification Centre.
    3. Settings>General>Reset ... do Reset All Settings. Doing this will not wipe out your iPhone. It will just Reset the network settings, location warning, keyboard dictionary, etc... but it will clear up some corrupted data there. Generally this will help.
    Try these 3 steps first... if it still drains a lot, try the following,
    4. Drain your battery down to 1%. Then charge it up using USB from PC ... not the charger. The charger output 1.0 A ( x 5V from USB ... you get 5W power). From PC, output is only 0.5A x 5V = 2.5W power. Charging is slower but trickle charge 4S helps the battery retain its charge better. I think it takes about 3-3.5 hours to charge full from USB/PC compared to slightly below 2 hours using iPhone charger.
    If after doing the above still could not solve your battery issues (mine with iOS 5.0 was ok up to step 4, but not iOS 5.0.1).... plug you iPhone to a charger (any charger), from iPhone, access your iCloud ... set it up if you havent. Back up your iPhone data to iCloud. if you do not have enough storage (only 5GB is free), go to details and select the apps you need its data backup, choose only those you really need and leave those unnecessary ones out. Back up your camera roll to your PC/Mac manually as it could be too big to backup to iCloud.... once you have it setup, make sure you are on Wifi ...  tap backup to iCloud from your iPhone. It will take a while if the file is huge.
    Once backup to iCloud is completed, plug your iPhone to PC/Mac and launch iTunes 10.5.1 (make sure you have 10.5.1)
    Click Restore. It will automatically initiate a download of iOS 5.0.1 ipsw for iPhone 4S. Wait for the whole process to finish, ie. download, restore software/firmware.
    Once its done, do not set up your iPhone from iTunes. Set it up on your iPhone. Go through the selection. When prompted, select restore from iCloud (from your iphone backup earlier). Keep your iphone plugged into iTunes while restoring backup from iCloud. Because while restoring from iClouds, some data will be synced from iTunes if you plug in, e.g. music, video, etc... unless you bought these content from iTunes store. Apps will be downloaded from App Store from the cloud.
    Once it's all done restored. Turn off your iPhone,.. and turn it on again.
    Now, hopefully your battery wont be draining so fast anymore. Usually it wont after this. But you need to charge your battery at least 4-5 cycles to stabilize the charge on the battery. I dont know why... but battery life seems to get better and better for me after a few charge cycles after all the above work.
    Good luck. Let us know if it works for you.
    W. Raider tips (Sirii):
    Bottom line for me of things that helped battery life are:
    1. Turing off Siri and Rebooting the phone by holding the Home button and Top button down, ignoring the slider, until the phone shut down. (turn off Siri, reboot, and check top front of iPhone 4S against a lesser camera like the front-facing camera on an iPad2 - making sure the IR sensor is off)
    2. Fully draining the battery, meaning using the phone until it shuts itself off from a drained battery and then recharging it to 100% about 4, maybe 5 times. I charged it both with a Mac and a wall charger.
    Hope this is helpful!
    Comments
    jmm514 remarks (Twitter):
    I may have found something. I had Twitter disabled in my notifications, but got a tweet today that popped up on my home screen. Didn't know I had this enabled. At the bottom of the Twitter notification settings is the home scrren toggle. Since disabling this, battery life seems better. Considering there is no setting for frequency of checking for tweets, it appears the phone is continually connecting to wifi to check for new tweets.
    tmksnyder comments (notifications, corrupt data in iCloud):
    For me, I found my iphone on wifi mysteriously connecting to my mac.  I eventually narrowed it down to the Apple Move Trailers app which keeps a file in iCloud.  The phone was trying to sync the file with the mac in the background even when the Movie Trailers app was closed (hitting the red x).  Based on my macosx logs the iCloud process that was trying to sync was working directly between the phone and the mac without using itunes by connecting to an https address hosted on the phone.  It was connecting every 3 minutes and failing (while phone was awake or awake during during a notification).  I also found that iCloud control panel on OSX would error if I tried to delete the file.  I fixed it by removing the App and doing a hard reset which stopped the sync.  I probably could have turned off iCloud document sync in the phone but didn't think of that.  My battery life has greatly improved while at home on wifi.    I am now at 28 hrs standby, 2 hrs 20 minutes of usage, and 68% battery.  It was ok before where I could get 20-30 hrs standby and 6 -8 hrs usage.  My usage today was phone calls, 3g surfing, and music via bluetooth in the car.
    I also found even with Itunes iMatch, if I mass updated tages, art work etc, it would hit the phone on wifi even in standby.  I was amazed.   Granted if I am not doing updates, Match won't hot the phone so this was a once in awhile event.  I could drop my percentage by 5-10% in a matter of minutes when doing updates.   I think a lot of our problems are background processes, associated with iCloud, notification, and apps.  More features means more battery.   I think the key thing is to keep track of what has recently been added or changed if battery life gets worse all of a sudden.   It may be an app that was recently installed and if possible you may want to completely remove it and not just quit it.
    With twitter, i think it uses push notifications so it doesn't need to be running and actively poll on the phone. For instance , if i quit the mail app, i still will get mail notifications and can swipe the message and load mail. Apple Push Notifications servics maintain the connection to the phone and there are likely pings or connection checks  that occur for the service on an os level not an app level.  This minimizes the load so there arent a bunch of apps all runing and constantly checking.  The notification service , if it is contacted from twitter or another service with data, will check the settings you have registered to the with the apple push service and send the notification to your phone.  No matter what, there is a drain with notifications. M hunch is once one application is configured to receive notifications, connection checking occurs betwen the push service and the phone so it knows where it is on the network. If it is implemented correctly, these checks arent frequent if you are still and more frequent as you move. The other drain is for when the noification hits and is processsed.  If i get 9 emails over night, my screen just popped up for 20 seconds or so to process each message using battery.  I would even think that just go from low power to turning n the screen uses more juice than if the device was already on and i get the message.  On nights I get no notifications, I see a 3  or 4 percent drop.  On nights with a number of notifications, i have seen up to a 10 percent drop.  Besides notifications, wifi sync and icloud will poll on the local network and use up battery if the host computer is on and running itunes or trying to sync a data file that is corrupt (which i had with the apple movie trailers app causing my phone to drain).  For me turning off wifi sync and remving a corrupt file in icloud solved my battery issues and I get over 24 hrs of standby with 6 to 9 hrs of use and this is with all the normal location services and push serivices turned on.
    See http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/ipad/#documentation/NetworkingInternet/Co nceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/ApplePushService/ApplePushService.html for more info.  I think it has a good overview of how the notifications work.

    Well seems like that rumor of iOS 5.0.1 is finally gone the way of the dogs since developers got a beta of 5.1. So as stated earlier in the master discussion-> I suspect if you are filling up this thread with false post or creating a master set of links to various post that are unreliable you are wasting your time. Press is not going to touch the story due to poor or inaccurate sources which may be links from the master thread. This can include inaccurate information, combination of conflicting post or postings from users which may not own the device. Reputable press organizations have policies that require discloser and strict rules about what is a reliable source for a story. It is clear that many of the post in the master thread, which are links presented here are questionable. 
    Sorry to say that postings taken without any analysis of their totality have been propagated via various sites, for example sites such as http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com. (Do not visit but I suspect that this is not the 2012 federal-budget site you would expect based on analysis of the records. There are plenty of sites like http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com propagating questionable post in these threads.) One site for example in the discussion thread used a self signed certificate, the site had a log in to allow users to enter their OpenID. Seems many of these sites are pop and drop drupel configurations.
    So remember this is how the really bad rumor of iOS 5.0.2 got started, the 5.1 memory leak issue, iCloud Issues, call quality, address book, etc.
    Some of the postings have been very comical, I think the latest now is a dropbox issue. Seems that the length of the previous thread has resulted in various app engines of some proxy servers/tools reaching their limits.
    So I would make sure to know the source of any information you link to. Make sure you avoid entering any information to outside links such as OpenID or Apple ID, these are big prize items for anyone with malicious intent.  If you have issues and are a valid user contact APPLE CARE. (Note link is using McAfee Secure Short URL Service, and is https.)
    http://mcaf.ee/ricdt
    The original solution still represents a high level of success for users having any battery issues.
    Install 5.0.1 on your iPhone 4s. Some users posting they are still using older versions, bad fake serial numbers, etc.
    Make sure your device can run iOS 5.0.1 and is not altered.
    Make sure you use a new Sim, not some cut down version which many users admit to doing. (Again, worth confirming what people are posting.)
    Reset the device doing a hard reset and software reset.
    Let battery drain and then charge for the full cycle, which is 24 hours.
    I think you will find you will get the battery usage that APPLE has stated for the device.
    Best of luck, stay safe and thanks

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