Timeline Markers From PP to AE and Other Questions

I find no instructions to import timeline markers along with Premiere sequences. Is it possible?
I'm still very new to AE and I am confusing myself quite easily going back and forth between the programs. What is the usual practice if i want to replace parts of original footage with segments created in AE?
Should I import the Premiere sequence and work on the segments in AE and create movie from there OR create the composition in AE and import into the Premiere project? In other words, once I import or export from one program to another, do I abandon the original project?
I ask because i am ending up with AE comps on my Premiere timeline as well as Premiere sequences in AE timelines.
I hope that doesn't sound too dumb

> I find no instructions to import timeline markers along with Premiere sequences. Is it possible?
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/PremierePro/4.0/WSB90E08AC-8994-4070-A1A1-BA560E5EDA4A.html
I found this with a simple Community Help search for 'Premiere markers'.
> Should I import the Premiere sequence and work on the segments in AE
and create movie from there OR create the composition in AE and import
into the Premiere project? In other words, once I import or export from
one program to another, do I abandon the original project?
I ask because i am ending up with AE comps on my Premiere timeline as well as Premiere sequences in AE timelines.
I hope that doesn't sound too dumb
No, that doesn't sound too dumb. There are a lot of options to figure out. See "Working with Adobe Premiere Pro and After Effects" for an overview.
The reason that there are a lot of options is that each of them is good for different things.
That means that we can't really answer your question without knowing exactly what you're trying to accomplish.
I suggest trying the various methods described int he document that I linked to and getting back to us when you have a specific piece of your work that you can't figure out how to do.

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Windows File compatibility, my iPod, and other questions

After years of gripping about doing Video and Photo editing on my PC, I am considering switching to a Mac. But, given I have a heavy investment in PC hardware, I want to make sure I can leverage everything the best way possible. So...
1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or anything?
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without problems?
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time (for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's without a problem?). What about jpg formatted pictures? Any nuances between PC and Mac formats? (or is jpg really just jpg on either machine...I can open up the same picture on a Mac and a PC and see the exact same picture, without major color changes, etc.).
I realize I need to reformat to FAT, but other than that, are their other problems I should know about? (I would like to use the RAID configuration to make sure I don't lose any data)
That should start for now...
Thanks - Jeff
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac

1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem
using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or
anything?
You can use it, and it will need to be reinitialised formatted for the Mac.
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without
problems?
No you can't access ActiveX websites with a Mac
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in
RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage
network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time
(for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play
them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's
without a problem?).
Yes
What about jpg formatted
pictures?
Yes
I realize I need to reformat to FAT,
If the computer will still be running Windows and acting as a server then no you won't need to reformat to FAT.
iFelix

Trying to download songs on iTunes and it's asking for "my 1st car I owned" and other questions that I never answered. It won't let me download anything til I answer them. Can you help me?

Trying to download songs on iTunes and it's asking for "my 1st car I owned" and other questions that I never answered. It won't let me download anything til I answer them. Can you help me?

You need to contact Apple to get the questions reset. Click here, phone them, and ask for the Account Security team, or fill out and submit this form.
(94816)

20gb iPod, error 1418, "disk cannot be read from or written to", and others

I am having a series of serious issues with my 4th gen 20gb. I have tried restoring it several times, syncing if and when it restores, then restoring it again when it tells me "disk cannot be read from or written to". Sometimes when I try restoring it i get the "unknown error 1418" message, so I disconnect the iPod and try again; sometimes it restores, sometimes it doesn't. I have also tried plain resetting it (select+menu) and that either gives me the dead smiley ipod or a folder with an exclamation point.
What can I do to salvage my beloved iPod?
Thanks for any and all help.

If a sad iPod icon or an exclamation point and folder icon appears on your iPod’s screen, or with sounds of clicking or HD whirring, it is usually the sign of a hard drive problem and you have the power to do something about it now. Your silver bullet of resolving your iPod issue – is to restore your iPod to factory settings.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=60983
If you're having trouble, try these steps at different levels one at a time until the issue is resolved. These steps will often whip your iPod back into shape.
Make sure you do all the following “TRYs”
A. Try to wait 30 minutes while iPod is charging.
B. Try another FireWire or USB through Dock Connector cable.
C. Try another FireWire or USB port on your computer .
D. Try to disconnect all devices from your computer's FireWire and USB ports.
E. Try to download and install the latest version of iPod software and iTunes
http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/
For old and other versions of iPod updater for window you can get here
http://www.ipodwizard.net/showthread.php?t=7369
F. Try these five steps (known as the five Rs) and it would conquer most iPod issues.
http://www.apple.com/support/ipod/five_rs/
G. Try to put the iPod into Disk Mode if it fails to appear on the desktop
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93651
If none of these steps address the issue, you may need to go to Intermediate level listed below in logical order. Check from the top of the lists to see if that is what keeping iPod from appearing on your computer in order for doing the Restore.
Intermediate Level
A. Try to connect your iPod with another computer with the iPod updater pre-installed.
B. Still can’t see your iPod, put it in Disk Mode and connect with a computer, instead of doing a Restore on iPod Updater. Go and format the iPod instead.
For Mac computer
1. Open the disk utility, hope your iPod appears there (left hand side), highlight it
2. Go to Tab “Partition”, click either “Delete” or “Partition”, if fails, skip this step and go to 3
3. Go to Tab “Erase” , choose Volume Format as “MAC OS Extended (Journaled), and click Erase, again if fails, skip it and go to 4
4. Same as step 3, but open the “Security Options....” and choose “Zero Out Data” before click Erase. It will take 1 to 2 hours to complete.
5. Eject your iPod and do a Reset
6. Open the iTunes 7 and click “Restore”
For Window computer
Go to folder “My Computer”
Hope you can see your iPod there and right click on the iPod
Choose “Format”. Ensure the settings are at “Default” and that “Quick Format” is not checked
Now select “Format”
Eject your iPod and do a Reset
Open the iTunes 7 and click “Restore”
In case you do not manage to do a “Format” on a window computer, try to use some 3rd party disk utility software, e.g.“HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool”.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=501330&tstart=0
C. Windows users having trouble with their iPods should locate a Mac user. In many cases when an iPod won't show up on a PC that it will show up on the Mac. Then it can be restored. When the PC user returns to his computer the iPod will be recognized by the PC, reformatted for the PC, and usable again. By the way, it works in reverse too. A Mac user often can get his iPod back by connecting it to a PC and restoring it.
Tips
a. It does not matter whether the format is completed or not, the key is to erase (or partly) the corrupted firmware files on the Hard Drive of the iPod. After that, when the iPod re-connected with a computer, it will be recognized as an fresh external hard drive, it will show up on the iTunes 7.
b. It is not a difficult issue for a Mac user to find a window base computer, for a PC user, if they can’t find any Mac user, they can go to a nearest Apple Shop for a favor.
c. You may need to switch around the PC and Mac, try to do several attempts between “Format” and “Restore”
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2364921&#2364921
Advance Level
A. Diagnostic mode solution
If you have tried trouble shooting your iPod to no avail after all the steps above, chances are your iPod has a hardware problem. The iPod's built-in Diagnostic Mode is a quick and easy way to determine if you have a "bad" iPod.
You need to restart your iPod before putting it into Diagnostic Mode. Check that your hold switch is off by sliding the switch away from the headphone jack. Toggle it on and off to be safe.
Press and hold the following combination of buttons simultaneously for approximately 10 seconds to reset the iPod.
iPod 1G to 3G: "Menu" and "Play/Pause"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Menu" and "Select"
The Apple logo will appear and you should feel the hard drive spinning up. Press and hold the following sequence of buttons:
iPod 1G to 3G: "REW", "FFW" and "Select"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Back" and "Select"
You will hear an audible chirp sound (3G models and higher) and the Apple logo should appear backwards. You are now in Diagnostic Mode. Navigate the list of tests using "REW" and "FFW". The scroll wheel will not function while in diagnostic mode. For further details on Diagnostic mode can be found at http://www.methodshop.com/mp3/ipodsupport/diagnosticmode/
Try to do the 5in1, HDD R/W and HDD scan tests. Some successful cases have been reported after the running the few tests under the Diagnostic mode. In case it does not work in your case, and the scan tests reports show some errors then it proves your iPod has a hardware problem and it needs a repairing service.
B. Format your iPod with a start disk
I have not tried this solution myself, I heard that there were few successful cases that the users managed to get their iPod (you must put your iPod in disk mode before connecting with a computer) mounted by the computer, which was booted by a system startup disk. For Mac, you can use the Disk Utility (on the Tiger OS system disk), for PC user, you can use the window OS system disk. Try to find a way to reformat your iPod, again it does not matter which format (FAT32, NTFS or HFS+) you choose, the key is to erase the corrupted system files on the iPod. Then eject your iPod and do a Reset to switch out from Disk Mode. Reboot your computer at the normal way, connect your iPod back with it, open the iPod updater, and hopefully your iPod will appear there for the Restore.
If none of these steps address the issue, your iPod may need to be repaired.
Consider setting up a mail-in repair for your iPod http://depot.info.apple.com/ipod/
Or visit your local Apple Retail Store http://www.apple.com/retail/
In case your iPod is no longer covered by the warranty and you want to find a second repairing company, you can try iPodResQ or ifixit at your own risk
http://www.ipodresq.com/index.php
http://www.ifixit.com/
Just in case that you are at the following situation
Your iPod warranty is expired
You don’t want to pay any service charges
You are prepared to buy a new one
You can’t accept the re-sell value of your broken iPod
Rather than leave your iPod as paper-weight or throw it away.
You can try the following, but again, only do it as your last resort and at your own risk.
Warning !!!! – It may or may not manage to solve your problem, and with a risk that you may further damage your iPod, which end up as an expensive paper weight or you need to pay more higher repairing cost. Therefore, please re-consider again whether you want to try the next level
Last Resort Level
1. . Disconnecting the Hard Drive and battery inside the iPod – Warning !! Your iPod warranty will be waived once you open the iPod.
In Hong Kong there are some electronic shops offering an iPod service for Sad iPod, the first thing they do is to open up the iPod’s case and disconnecting the battery and the Hard Drive from the main board of the iPod. Wait for 5-10 minutes and reconnecting them back. The reason behind which I can think of is to do a fully reset of a processor of the iPod. In case you want do it itself and you believe that you are good on fixing the electronics devices and have experience to deal with small bits of electronic parts, then you can read the following of how to open the iPod case for battery and HDD replacement (with Quicktimes)
http://eshop.macsales.com/tech_center/index.cfm?page=Video/directory.html
2.Press the reset button on the Hard Drive inside the iPod – Suggestion from Kill8joy
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2438774#2438774
Have I tried these myself? No, I am afraid to do it myself as I am squeamish about tinkering inside electronic devices, I have few experiences that either I broke the parts (which are normally tiny or fragile) or failed to put the parts back to the main case. Therefore, I agree with suggestion to have it fixed by a Pro.
2. Do a search on Google and some topics on this discussion forum about “Sad iPod”
Exclamation point and folder and nothing else
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3597173#3597173
Exclamation point and folder and nothing else
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2831962#2831962
What should I do with my iPod? Send it or keep it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=469080&tstart=0
Strange error on iPod (probably death)
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=435160&start=0&tstart=0
Sad Face on iPod for no apparent reason
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=336342&start=0&tstart=0
Meeting the Sad iPod icon
http://askpang.typepad.com/relevanthistory/2004/11/meeting_thesad.html#comment-10519524
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2236095#2236095
iPod Photo: unhappy icon + warranty question
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2233746#2233746
4th Gen iPod Users - are we all having the same problem?
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=2235623#2235623
Low Battery, and clicking sounds
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2237714#2237714
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2242018#2242018
Sad iPod solution
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=412033&tstart=0
Re: try to restore ipod and it says "can't mount ipod"
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=443659&tstart=30
iPod making clicking noise and is frozen
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2420150#2420150
Cant put it into disk mode
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3786084#3786084
I think my iPod just died its final death
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3813051
Apple logo & monochrome battery stay
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3827167#3827167
My iPod ism’t resetting and isn’t being read by my computer
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4489387#4489387
I am not suggesting that you should follow as well, but just read them as your reference. You are the person to make the call.
Finally, I read a fair comments from dwb, regarding of slapping the back of the iPod multiple times
Quote “This has been discussed numerous times as a 'fix'. It does work, at least for a while. In fact I remember using the same basic trick to revive Seagate and Quantam drives back in the mid to late 1980's. Why these tiny hard drives go bad I don't know - could be the actuator gets stuck in place or misaligned. Could be the platter gets stuck or the motor gets stuck. 'Stiction' was a problem for drives back in the 80's. Unfortunately the fix can cause damage to the platter so we temporarily fix one problem by creating another. But I know of two instances where a little slap onto the table revived the iPods and they are still worked a year or more later.”UnQuote

How to restrict users working on Windows 7 clients from accessing Windows Explorer and other systems in the network through Group Policy with a domain controller running on Windows Server 2008 r2

Dear All,
We are having an infrastructure setup of around 500 client computers managed through group policy.
Recently the domain controllers have been migrated from Windows Server 2003 to Server 2008 R2.
Since this account requires extremely strict environment, we need to figure the solution for restricting the users from access anything locally.
It would be great if you can assist me with the following query.
How to restrict users logged on Windows 7 clients from accessing Windows Explorer and browsing other systems in the network through Group Policy with a domain controller running on Windows Server 2008 r2 ?
Can we disable Network Tab on the left hand pane ?
explorer.exe is blocked already, but users are able to enter the Windows Explorer by clicking on the name which is visible on the Start Menu.

>   * explorer.exe is blocked already, but users are able to enter the
>    Windows Explorer by clicking on the name which is visible on the
>    Start Menu.
You cannot block explorer.exe when you do not replace the shell - the
desktop you see effectively IS explorer.exe...
Your requirement sounds like you need a custom shell:
http://gpsearch.azurewebsites.net/#2812
Martin
Mal ein
GUTES Buch über GPOs lesen?
NO THEY ARE NOT EVIL, if you know what you are doing:
Good or bad GPOs?
And if IT bothers me - coke bottle design refreshment :))

When I get art work from older illustrator programs and other programs the colors don't print the same as they did about 2 months ago. Big issue for me! How do I cange this or fix it?

Things were going fine until about a month or so ago, now when I take files from older illustrator programs or other programs that ran fine with illustrator before, the colors change. This is a BIG problem for me right now! I tried the on line help thing and I was afraid to erase the files that it asked me to erase because I may want it back the way it now is some day and because I don't have the files from the older program... PLS help! Have tryed to call and am waiting for a chat to open,...

gaskins,
You may have different Color Settings, and if you use Pantone you should be aware that the whole interpretation has changed (a number of times, most radically recently).
If you say more, more can be said.

TS4196 when I send Imessage to someone with iphone, there had received 2 message. one from my phone No: and other one from my E-mail apple ID why is that happen

hello
I just install mountain lion I try to send imessage from my MBP , every time i send the imessage to someone iphone
they received 2 mesage from me one from my mobile number and the other from the my email addres apple ID
can you tell me what is appening or how can I fix it so only one message
thanks

Go to Settings/General/Reset and choose Reset All Content and Settings. This will erase everything on the iPhone and allow you to set it up again as new with the proper Apple ID.

EXSP24 in LE7 and other questions

I have worked out that the sampler instrument editor in LE7 has been removed which is kinda an odd upgrade from Logic Audio 6 imo. If i have this wrong please let me know.
So how do I go about adding in new instruments from sample cd's etc??
I am used to running Logic Audio 6 on my old Imac in System 9 so the new or apparent lack of Logic Folders etc is quite bizarre for me. So if anyone can also throw me some pointers on:
1: Using Reason adapted for Recycle as a rewired instrument in LE7 (I have a feeling this is not possible)
2: Using Absynth within LE7
3: Will something like Kontakt run in LE7?
4: Rewiring Logic into Live or vice versa.
So many questions
Thanks
Paul

You can't edit EXSP24 instruments but you can import several formats:
Akai, Soudfonts, Giga, SampleCell and DLS.
To create your own patches you need some external apps like this:
http://www.redmatica.com/Site/Pages/KM.php
About other questions and supposing that you don't have a Intel Mac:
1. Yes, you can.
2. Logic uses plugins in Audio Unit format; if you have an older version of Absynth you should upgrade to a newer one.
3. Same as above,
4. Logic can act as Rewire host only so you can rewire Live to Logic but not Logic to Live.
cheers
rob
Power Mac G4/533 PowerBook 12 Mac OS X (10.4.5)

Crossover Settings Confusion and Other Questions

Equipment is as follows:
- LG 55-inch 55LH90 LED TV
- Denon AVR-590 A/V Receiver
- Klipsch HD 500 5.1 Speakers
- DirecTV High Def Satellite Receiver/DVR
Long story very short is that I hit a button on the receiver remote about two weeks ago, unknowingly changing the existing audio settings to something along the lines of Matrix or Direct or Stereo. I'm not one to fool with trying to customize settings on equip. like this... I usually just use the very basic functionality in controlling the equipment, as that's why I paid money 1.5 years ago to have everything professionally installed and calibrated.
Upon accidentally hitting that remote control button, my audio went to pot, was very muffled, volume was minimal, sound was hissy, etc. Sounded like I was listening to $15 speakers.
Had no idea what had happened, didn't want to fool with trying to figure it out myself, contacted the receiver manufacturer to explain what had happened, they recommended immediately that I reset the receiver and thought the processor had locked up. Did the reset and that of course unfortunately scrapped all of my custom calibration settings that the installers had configured a year and a half ago. Sound still not improved. Recommended that I send the receiver in for repair. I held off for a few days on doing that and finally found the likely cause / solution on a message board, clicked the same button on the remote that I'd likely clicked by accident a few weeks earlier, and the sound was back to a more normal level.
However, now I'm left without all of those custom calibrations via the Audyssey stuff that was erased, and I'm lost as can be as to how to get our system sounding like it did prior to all of this happening approx. 2 weeks ago.
I'm lost on the crossover frequency settings and what they should be, what the dials on the rear of the subwoofer should be set at, what the crossover settings for the front / center / rear surround speakers should be, etc.
I ran the Audyssey configuration using the supplied microphone that came with the receiver, but the resulting sound just still doesn't sound at all like it did originally after the installers did all of the setup / configuration back in Aug. 2009.
Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my front L/R speakers to 120 HZ. Audyssey sets the crossover level of my center channel to 110 Hz. Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my rear L/R surround speakers to 120 Hz. In what I seem to remember is the "bass management" area of the receiver settings, the crossover for the subwoofer is set at 80 Hz. I believe another setting for the subwoofer is LFE+Main, too.
With the above in mind, I have no idea at all (1) if the crossover values are appropriate for the various speakers and the subwoofer in the mix to distribute high/mid/low sounds appropriately between the speakers and the sub, (2) I have no idea what the "Level" knob on the rear of the subwoofer should be set to (values range from Min to Max), (3) I have no idea what the LowPass (Hz) knob on the rear of the subwoofer (ranges from 80 to 100) should be set to, and am just very confused / frustrated that with the accidental click of a button on the receiver remote 2 wks. ago and then Denon's tech support recommending the most drastic solution to this issue in resetting the receiver's processor and erasing all of the custom Audyssey settings. I'm left with very sub-par sound as a result of all of this and can't seem to get the re-run Audyssey calibration routine to get my system back to sounding as phenomenal / balanced as it did for nearly 1.5 years straight after the initial setup / calibration of everything back in Aug. 2009 by the Best Buy professional installers.
Any explanations of what the crossover settings for all of my speakers and subwoofer, knob settings on the rear of the subwoofer should be (in general, mind you, as I know all situations / environments / listening preferences are different), or any other helpful recommendations are GREATLY appreciated. I'm very frustrated that Denon's tech support didn't first have me see if I had accidentally adjusted the sound properties via the remote via an accidental button click as opposed to taking my receiver back to square one. I'm not a technical master of this stuff and have no idea what I'm doing wrong in trying to get everything back to sounding like the great system it used to sound like.
Thanks in advance for any clearly-explained suggestions / recommendations on all of this. My last resort is to contact Best Buy and pay them to come back out to re-calibrate everything themselves if I can't figure out where my calibration settings / adjustments are wrong.

As I said in my first post in your other thread "you changed a setting the receiver and speakers are fine" <- not word for word but close to what I said LOL. I knew from what you described thats what it had to be. I do have a concern about the phase issues and the distance readings but that could be placement of mic or if your speakers are facing straight out instead of being slightly faced inward. May I ask where did you place the mic and was it on a tripod? I suggest either borrowing or buying a camcorder tripod for this. I answered your questions below in blue.
Also before ever doing a reset on any piece of equipment check the internet for some ideas as it could save you a lot of headaches.
bmccollum wrote:
Okay... stayed up late last night running through the Audyssey calibration routine. Took several tries at the calibration routine, as it kept on coming back saying I had phase issues with various speakers (it bounced around between telling me the phase issues were with the Front Left, the Front Right, and the Center Channel). I just kept on re-running Audyssey until it finally ceased telling me some of the speakers had phasing issues.
Before I continue, I can't thank you enough again for reading through my posts and offering your suggestions... really do appreciate the assistance!
While I'm thinking about it, I determined why the sound qualities / volume / etc. got so poor all of a sudden about 2-3 weeks ago. I apparently accidentally hit one of the buttons on the receiver remote that changed the sound setup from whatever it had been set on forever to something like "Virtual" or "Direct" or "Stereo" or something like that, as opposed to Dolby Digital or whatever it had been set on forever. I unfortunately went through the recommended Microprocessor Reset procedure on the receiver per their tech support's recommendation & that's why I lost all of the original Audyssey calibrated settings from August 2009, when all along, I could've just resolved the audio issues if I'd known that I'd accidentally clicked a button on the receiver remote, and had known I just needed to re-click another button to get the audio back to what it was normally set on. Here are the results that were set by the Denon AVR-590 via the Audyssey calibration. Note: Before beginning the Audyssey calibration process, I had the volume level knob on the rear of the sub itself turned halfway to the 12 o'clock position, and the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub turned all the way to the right (I believe 160 was the value). I ultimately turned the volume knob on the rear of the sub to about the 10 o'clock position as I re-ran the Audyysey calibration multiple times, as the dB values being shown for the sub were coming back at - 12.0 db or close to that with the sub volume set at the 12 o'clock position. The sub dB value got closer to the desired 0 dB value (as shown below) with the sub volume knob set to the 10 o'clock position.
* Speaker Configuration Check    *
- Front Speaker                 Small
- Center Speaker              Small
- Subwoofer                       Yes
- Surround Speaker         Small
- S. Back (Preout)             None
* Distance Check                 *
- Front Left                         0.1 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) is the speaker facing slightly in
- Front Right                       1.3 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) "  it should be                             "
- Center                               14.7 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Subwoofer                       16.3 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Surround Left                 8.0 ft                     (this seems accurate)
- Surround Right               8.7 ft                     (this seems accurate)
* Channel Level Check            *
- Front Left                         + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Center                               + 2.5 dB
- Front Right                       + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Surround Right               + 2.0 dB
- Surround Left                 + 2.5 dB
- Subwoofer                       - 2.0 dB
* Crossover Frequency Check      *
- Front                                  60 Hz                    (seems low... not sure...) Set to 80 hz
- Center                               120 Hz                   (seems reasonable... not sure...)you can leave it or set it to 80 hz
- Surround                          150 Hz                   (seems high... not sure...) again leave it or set it to 120 or 80 hz
- S. Back                               None
Okay, I've made the following minor adjustments thus far post-Audyssey calibration, as noted below:
- SW Mode:                        LFE+Main set to LFE only
- LPF for LFE:                      120 Hz
- Sub Volume Knob         Left sitting around the 10-11 o'clock position on rear of sub
- LowPass Knob                                Left sitting at max setting to the right on rear of sub (I believe value is 160)
- Front Left                         15.1 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 0.1 ft
- Front Right                       15.3 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 1.3 ft.
So there we are... ANY additional insight you may have on any of the values I've reported to you and whether or not they seem reasonable or completely out of whack is greatly appreciated. My main concerns/questions are the various Crossover Freqency values set by Audyssey and whether or not they should likely be manually adjusted by me to better utilize/distribute the sound between the various speakers / sub, and secondly, why/how did Audyssey so incorrectly set the distance of my Front Left & Front Right speakers and was it likely wise of me to have set them to what they should be w/a new distance setting now of around 15 ft. for each of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
Here are my questions in a nutshell now. I'm probably overanalyzing things now since having experienced this audio issue a few weeks ago and now I'm prob. hyper-sensitive to all aspects of the home theater sound I have at present.
(1) Why do commercials seem to have expanded sound using all speakers whereas just you plain ol' TV programs seem to use fewer speakers and just mainly the center channel aside from some occasional applause and such coming out of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
The commercials are most likely broadcast in stereo instead of surround sound. The receiver will switch from dolby digital to stereo and you won't even notice it except for the sound.
(2) Why would I hit the "STD" button on the receiver remote to choose Dolby Digital vs. when
to hit the "SIMU" button on the receiver remote to select "5 Channel Stereo" or other options via that "SIMU" button?5 Channel stereo is just that, Its 2 channel stereo being output through all 5 channels. It is not 5 channel surround. Standard give you Dolby digital, Prologic II etc. Simulation gives you 5 channel stereo, Matrix, Hall and the other simulated surrounds. You want to hit the standard button.
(3) On rear of subwoofer, I've set the LowPass knob all the way to the right, assuming that the "LFE +Main" and "LPF for LFE = 120Hz" settings override the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub, therefore having that knob turned all the way to the right to allow the settings for the sub in the receiver itself to control the LowPass / Crossover stuff. Correct. As long as the sub accepts LFE signals the receiver will send anything lower than 120hz directly to the sub. If not that is why you are setting it to the highest setting.
(4) With Audyssey Crossover Frequencies set as shown above, are these reasonable/appropriate values to where all speakers are utilized properly for the equipment I have in distributing all low/mid/high frequencies appropriate between the various speakers / sub without audio drops and so forth? The Crossover Frequency stuff is probably the most confusing part of all of this to me.
Again, I can't thank you enough for your help and any additional recommendations you can make regarding my situation.

Pixel Bender custom multiply blend and other questions

I am creating photo editing application on iPad and i am using Pixel Bender to calculate effects. But ive got a problem with multiply blend mode.When i run it in CPU/GPU mode, it runs fine(result looks absolutly 1:1 as from photoshop). But when i switch to Flash Player mode, it dont want to render properly. I dont get any compilation errors. Ive got also some other questions:
1.How does PB performs on iOS ?
2.If my problem is becouse of incapability of FP, is there any other solution to this ? I cant afford AS3.0 computing, becouse it is really slow even on PC.
3. Can be Pixel Bender 3D sollution to this ? If yes, when will it come out to iOS ?
4. How are filters computed in FP ? CPU or GPU ?
here, you can see the difference : http://ponozka.php5.cz/gpuMode.jpg http://ponozka.php5.cz/flashMode.jpg
Thanks
source code :
<languageVersion : 1.0;>
kernel MultiplyLayer
<   namespace : "Your Namespace";
    vendor : "Richard Molnar";
    version : 1;
>
    input image4 src;
    input image4 layer;
    output pixel4 dst;
    parameter float4 param <
        minValue:float4(0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0);
        maxValue:float4(1.0,1.0,1.0,1.0);
        defaultValue:float4(1.0,1.0,1.0,1.0);
    >;
    void
    evaluatePixel()
        pixel4 pix;
        pixel4 pix2;
        pix = sampleNearest(src,outCoord());
        pix2 = sampleNearest(layer,outCoord());
        dst.r = pix.r - pix.r * (1.0-(pix2.r))*param.r*pix2.a*param.a;
        dst.g = pix.g- pix.g * (1.0-(pix2.g))*param.g*pix2.a*param.a;
        dst.b = pix.b -pix.b * (1.0-(pix2.b))*param.b*pix2.a*param.a;
        dst.a = 1.0;

Ok, so i already know, that CPU/GPU and flash are giving different results. So lets have a situation, where you need to display transparent image without transparency. On GPU/CPU, you will need only this :
dst.r = src.r;
dst.g = src.g;
dst.b = src.b;
dst.a = 1.0;
but for flash, you will need this :
dst.r = (1.0/src.a)*src.r;
dst.g = (1.0/src.a)*src.g;
dst.b = (1.0/src.a)*src.b;
dst.a = 1.0;
First kernel on GPU will show the exact same result as second kernel on flash. But the question remains : is it bug ?

Is the disk equal to log files and other questions?

In the web page http://www.oracle.com/technology/documentation/berkeley-db/je/GettingStartedGuide/introduction.html#dplfeatures, there is a statement, " The checkpointer is responsible for flushing database data to *disk* that was written to cache as the result of a transaction commit ".
I wonder if the disk here means log files under the JE home directory.
From my understanding of these documents and other web resources, the check pointer is to write records in Cache to Log files (disk), and then cleaner is to reorganize and then to remove unused log files. For the records in a Cache, they are brought from disk to Cache by querying the index organized in a B-Tree structure, and the In-Compressor is to delete some empty internal nodes of B-Tree.
I wonder if the above is right to describe relations among these components, check pointer, cleaner, B-Tree and In-Compressor.
Thanks for your help!
Best,
Jiangfan

Jiangfan Shi wrote:
I wonder if the disk here means log files under the JE home directory. Yes.
I wonder if the above is right to describe relations among these components, check pointer, cleaner, B-Tree and In-Compressor. Yes.

New Droid Turbo takes forever to load pictures on social media? ...and other questions!

Hey all, I just got my new Droid Turbo a week ago and I've noticed some shortcomings that I'm not sure how to handle. They're not major, but they irritate me. I'll just list them...
-On social media (Instagram and Facebook specifically), the pages load fine but most/all of the pictures take nearly a minute or more to load, if they load at all. Never had an issue with Samsung or previous Motorola phones doing this.
-I occasionally get a popup error that "Contacts has stopped" even when I'm not accessing it or the program is closed (it usually happens when I'm making a call).
-I have a setting to make my Gmail mail sync automatically, but it doesn't always do it, and the phone is supposed to notify me but only does it sometimes.
-How to make "folders" in photo Gallery?
-Google Play music is synced, but doesn't play AT ALL...just "thinks."
I think that's all I have for now. Sorry it's so much, but I appreciate any help you all have! Thanks!!
*Lauren*

Congratulations on your new Droid Turbo. We'd love to help make sure your new phone is working properly. For the photos in Instagram and Facebook, Is it that some photos appear and others do not? How are photos in other applications or different websites? As for the Gmail sync, have you checked the settings under Gmail to ensure the sync options are set to your preference. In regards to the folders for the gallery, folders are usually created on their own and based on where pictures are created. For the Play Music, what happens when you try to play songs?
SheritaH_VZW
Follow us on Twitter @VZWSupport
If my response answered your question please click the �Correct Answer� button under my response. This ensures others can benefit from our conversation. Thanks in advance for your help with this!!

Which Firmware should I use and other questions

Question 1: I am going to get a mac OS x either 10.0 or 10.1 disk on this iMac once I increase the RAM and exchange the processor with a 400 Mhz g3 powerPC processor (From a friends iMac) and get a external hard drive. So which Firmware should I get in this tray loader? I currently have mac os 9.2.2 and plan on updating this baby with mac os x. Can someone please provide a link to the FirmWare?
Question 2: Could I get a cp100 256mb ram and put it in one of my ram slots while I have my original 64mb Ram so it would equal to 320mb? And if so, would mac os x work well with 320mbs of ram?
Question 3: Also, one more question, my brother has a macintosh REALLY old computer and it has Apple Audio CD Player, and I really want to play Audio CDs on this, I also have iTunes 2.0.4 and when I put in a music CD to listen to it on iTunes, it doesnt read it so I then browsed my computer and clicked on iDisk and the computer froze. I also would like to burn CDs onto iTunes, any help would be great. Thanks. Peace. Lata'.

When you are asking about the ram requirements, you mean what kind fo ram does a tray loader take? In that case, it uses SODIMM PC66 ram.
As for Cd-Burners, externals would have you limited to USB 1 connections since you ahve a tray loading iMac, which is a max 4x speed (slowwwwwww). wegenermedia.com sells an internal replacement if you wanted to go that route, but you're starting to talk about putting a lot of money into an old machine at that point.
You don't need 9.2 to install OS X. The only thing you need to have done is the firmware update.
If you used firmware update 1.2 and it said you may already have newer firmware, then you probably ran it a long time ago and forgot. If you check your apple system profiler, I believe its supposed to say the boot rom is version 3.03f.
10.3 shouldn't be any slower than 10.2 I don't think. Apple's done a good job optimizsing each version of OS X better than its predcessor. But 10.2 was a fine OS as well and can run most OS X software.
external hard drives, like the CD-RW drive option, would be limited to USB 1 speed, which is good only for backup purposes. a better option would be an internal upgrade. see http://www.djonmac.com for instructions.
I understand your concern about buying things with your credit card online, but here's the reality of that situation: far and away most idendity theft occurs from people going through your trash, or using "phishing" email scams, or from friends and relatives. Many of the high profile credit card company breaches have been at the credit card processors themselves, so whether you used your card online or not didn't make a difference to those security breaches. You could get scammed by the employee at a physical store as easily or easier than an online store in many cases. Buying from the internet is safe when you buy from reputable sites with secure pages (indicated by the little yellow lock at the bottom of your browser). if you feel really unsafe about it, some credit cards offer random one time use number generaters for buying online, or you could get a visa gift card or secured credit card which would prevent anyone from having access to any more money than you have on there.

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