Tips for focusing camera?

No matter what I do, I cannot get the Curve to take clear photos. Is there some tips or techniques? I can use my regular digital camera just fine. Thanks.

not really, only thing you can do is try and hold your phone extreamly still, it dosnt have all the "stablizing" stuff in it that a Digi cam has.....cus its a phone... soo lol not much you can really do im affraid

Similar Messages

Any Tips for editing Live Event 2 camera shoot?

I need to quickly edit a 2 DV camera recording of a live multi-scene performance (duration of 90 minutes), with audio additionally recorded on a good quality remote mic.
I have used FCE for some time, but not for several months. I have managed to forget many of the lessons learnt through trial and error, as well as by reading Tom wolsky's FCE Editing Workshop! So shortcut tips would be very helpful.
I am also using FCE 3.5 for the first time after my upgrade.
1
I want to make a safety copy of the synced rushes, as well as keeping the original camera sound recording as a back-up guide track.
2
I am worried about making sure I am working with Master clips, so that when I edit I don't mess up any of the source material. I am a little confused.
3
I would appreciate anyone with any suggestions or tips for the best edit process, and any warnings or other guidance. Speed is of essence. (ie there is no budget).
4
I am considering making separate sequences for each scene (14 scenes in all of varying length and complexity). Is this advisable rather than creating one programme length sequence?
5
I am considering making the audio into one mono track for simplicity, as the auditorium acoustics have "mixed up" the sound, with little stereo separation. Should I then duplicate the track to build the sound quality at the end?
Any other general Tips always welcome.
Thank you in advance. I appreciate all the unsung contributors to this group.
Freesh

I am a pretty good source for basic sound info - you can email me if you like
[email protected]
you are right about the link - I am sorry - i checked the website before I typed the link in too! A blond moment
A low shelf filter - as included in FCE and soundtrack cuts the bottom off a soundmix. 20hz is a low frequency - not many speaker systems can reproduce this frequency, and most speaker systems can't even get to 40hz - even you high fi system or speakers which say they may be able too present sound for 20hz to 20khz - well unless you have spent an aweful lot of money and have a sub bass speaker the size of a car probably may only go down to 40hz, and the production of any 20hz sounds is more likely a feeling - a psychoacousticc effect. The thing about cutting off the bass is that practically it can make the recording sound less muddy, and you can make the recording sound louder. Most recordings for CD play have the bass started to roll of pretty heavily at 40hz and nothing present at 20hz... theirs this thing called narquist theory which talks about frequency responce - but it is this math heavy thing - so basically cut out a good amount of the sub bass. A low shelf filter does this and If you want to be conservative cut below 20hz, and if you want to be real give it a good cut below 35hz.
Now I was sure that their was a mac version of that monofilter that I saw on the web page - I have a PC and do most of my audio work on a PC as that is what I have used the most. If you can get the mono filter work it will make the bottom end sound much better - more natural - less clicky and perhaps abnoxious.... those of us who like trip hop are always striving to get a nice warm bass that represents itself well on a range of speakers. something smooth - it is a bit of a trick - monofilter is one of those tricks.
If you put the bass in mono (below 250hz ish) and keep the phase right speakers find it easier to work with the signal. Also stereo bass is not something that translates well on speakers... Bass tends to just flood the room where as the more mid and trebbly sounds give the audio a feeling of distance and space and left and right. The monofilter has a bass compression/limiting and phase correction built itno it, and implimented on a slider called 'trim'. Listen to your recording on good speakers and probably just bring the trim down a touch (my guess)... as complex as it sounds the monofilter is very easy to use, and is super clever. Now I thought that nugen had a mac audio unit plugin - that is a pity if they don't and kind of makes my advice seem irelevant unless you are prepared to download an application that can use VST's.
Amy
be careful using an eq as most eq's disrupt the phase of the signal and can reek havok on live recordings. but do give it a low shelf filter at least below -20 but probably below -40 to -80 for practicalitys sake
This is a bit over my head, I am afraid. Do you know a source of basic info for sound recording to help explain such things? It could be a book or an online resource?
lol, what i meant was 20hz or 40 too 80hz - their is a low shelf filter in soundtrack that works well - I am talking about cutting off the low frequency bits of the recording here. Nugen audio has a little pdf that comes out with the monofilter talking about bass signals... I know it is geared towards music and perhaps music that you want to have a nice bass feel - however it translates to the real world too - You will be suprised at how great your audio will sound if you cut off a chunk of the sub bass, and put the low bass in mono.
then you could look at exciting the signal - but that is another story....

Tips For Solving the Mac OS X Lion Slowness (Lots of Beach Balls)

Hi Folks,
Just a quick list of tips for this issue that some of Mac OS X Lion users face.
The main symptom is that we get the Beach Ball on almost any task, it takes 4, maybe five times more time to do what we need to do. So depending on the schedule, it can drive us crazy. I was facing that, and started to think that Lion was a Windows Vista relative.
Please remind that the tips below involve backing up and restoring your system. If you are not careful, you may lose everything. You are responsible for your acts. Be cautious!
How I solved my issue:
1) Checked for Disk Permissions and the Disk itself:
- Applications / Utilities / Disk Utility:
- Click on your disk, and then VERIFY DISK. If everything is OK, move on. If it is not, REPAIR DISK.
- Now click on VERIFY DISK PERMISSIONS. If everthing is OK, move. If not, Repair.
This step 1 is to make sure that your slowness is due to something related to the OS itself and not to permissions/disk.
If this solves the slowness, then you are OK. Now further steps are necessary. In my case, this just helped a little bit. The beach-balling reduced by 20% only. Still too slow.
2) Do a full backup of your system.
I used Time Machine. Make sure you have all of your applications closed. So the backup will be full. If you fail to do a good backup, you will lose everything! Make sure you do a good one. Maybe do it twice on 2 different disks! Now you have been warned.
3) Do a Full Restore of your entire system.
Now, get that Install CD that came with your Mac,
- Put it on your drive, shut down your computer.
- While holding the C key, press the start button of your Mac. It will boot using the Install CD that came with your Mac.
To recover your entire system:
Connect your Time Machine backup disk to your computer. If you’re restoring your system because of a problem with your startup disk, make sure the disk has been repaired or replaced.
Insert your Mac OS X Install disk, and double-click the Install Mac OS X icon.
In the Installer, choose Utilities > Restore System from Backup.
In the Restore Your System dialog, click Continue.
Select your Time Machine backup volume.
Select the Time Machine backup you want to restore.
Follow the onscreen instructions.
4) Remove the CD, and boot.
When I did that, the system came back very fast and responsive. No more beach balls (only on the really-intensive tasks), and everything was back to normal.
5) So, what was it anyways?
Before doing this Backup/Restore, I was getting lots of DISK I/O ERRORS, specially during boot time (you can check that by shutting down your mac, powering it back on and imediatelly pressing Command-V - Verbose Mode).
Sure, the first thing in mind was that I had a faulty hard drive, but I checked it several times for errors (via Disk Utility), and nothing showed up.
So I decided to do a full backup/restore of the system. And it solved it, at least for me.
My config:
MacBook Pro (2009 edition) - 5 GB RAM - 640 GB HD - Mac OS X 10.7
Regards.

Also my mac will not complete my 5 software updates, no idea which software, but it said it could not do it. Also backing up with time machine had failed twice today. Thanks

MacBook Pro display usable as a reference monitor for a camera shoot?

I am shooting a video project and wish to try and use my 17" Mac Pro display screen as a reference monitor on a live mini-DV camera shoot for focus and color versus lugging around a heavier CRT and battery back. Will the MacPro display be sufficient to significantly judge color, exposure, and focus? I know it's not ideal, but with improvements in LCD displays over the last few years I would like to hear from other users who may have tried using their display screens in this way and see what their results were.
Many thanks,
John

While the answer in itself is probably no, you could however spend some time to get yourself a known comparitive situation. With some careful calibration and comparison to a final result you should be able to get it to a point where, while not perfect, you know what you're going to get.
By the way, the matte display will produce far more consistent colour than the glossy display.
Utlimately though for the best results the suggested CRT solution is the one to go for even though it's somewhat a pain.

My tips for taking good photographs .

Taking good Photographs in simple terms
Getting sharp images:
For best results use a sturdy tripod and lock-up your mirror prior to clicking the shutter with a remote release (or use the shutter release timer).
If you need to hand hold, ensure that the shutter speed is fast enough; this will depend on your personal ability to hold the camera steady, the focal length of the lens and whether or not the lens / camera has image stability built in.
Choose an appropriate aperture for the depth of field that you require; a small aperture (high f number) for wide depth of field (typical for landscapes) or a large aperture (small f number) for shallow depth of field (typical for portraiture). To maximise the depth of field achieved for a given aperture when taking landscape photos, focus approximately one third of the way into the scene.
Buy the best quality lenses that you can afford. A consumer camera body with a high quality lens will obtain better quality images than a pro camera body with a consumer spec kit lens; spend wisely!
Composition:
There are various ‘rules’ for helping with composition, the most commonly used being the rule of thirds; divide the scene through your lens into three both vertically and horizontally giving four points of intersection; place the most important element on one of these intersection points.
Remember that rules are there to be broken and achieving good balance in an image can be more important than force fitting some arbitrary rules!
Crop your image to a shape that gives most impact; letter box, square etc.
Light:
Remember it is light that you are recording on the sensor / film and digital cameras and film have a limit to the range from darkest to brightest that they can record; exceed this and you will have either blocked up shadows or burned out highlights.
Landscape photographers use graduated Neutral Density filters to darken the sky so that all tones can be captured.
The light at and around sun rise and sun set is much warmer than at mid day and shadows are much longer resulting in much more pleasing images, particularly for landscape photography. That said, there are times when the soft light pre-dawn, post sunrise, or on an overcast or misty day is the perfect light for the subject. For each subject consider what will work best and the angle that you will make the image; also consider B&W / mono as days with dull colour can make great B&W images.
Post Processing:
There is nothing new about post processing, it is not something that was invented for digital photography; it is much cleaner digitally, and you have the ability to click ‘undo’ but the concept of manipulating imagery goes back a long way with all serious darkroom printers at least doing a little dodging and burning to bring out the best in their prints.
Get as much right in camera and try not to over-do the processing; a good image can be ruined whilst a poor image cannot be turned into a good image!
Improving your skills:
One great way of improving your skills is to join a local camera club where you will learn from the experienced members.
Alternatively (or in addition to joining a camera club), enrol onto a photography course.
Most importantly, get out with your camera and practice!
Examples:
To see examples of putting the above into practice feel free to take a tour of my web site, link below:
http://www.final-image-photography.co.uk/
Does anybody else have any advice?
http://digitalcamerascompare.com
For good camera reviews.

All very good points. I would just add that prime lenses will usually produce better quality pictures. A prime lens has a fixed focal length e.g. 35mm, 50mm, 85mm etc. However most of us prefer the flexibility of a zoom lens which can stay on the camera and avoids the need to constantly change lenses for the job in hand, or to carry around a large kit bag. So there is a trade off between best quality and convenience.

I thought I would be able to scan barcodes with my iPad 2 but it won't because it does not have an auto-focus camera. Can the camera be upgraded? can a peripheral cam be plugged in?

I thought I would be able to scan bar codes with my iPad 2 but cannot because it only has a fixed-lens camera. Bar code scanning apps require auto-focus cameras. Can I upgrade the camera within the iPad2 to auto-focus? If not, can I add a peripheral auto-focus camera and plug it in the the usb port?

Your not able to upgrade the camera, it's not really there for photos . Also there is no USB port on the iPad just a cable that connects to you computer.

Preview pictures resolution breaks down while using PSE 13 photomerge for focus stacking

Hello,
I'm new to this forum as well to Photoshop elements but I hope, someone can help me with the problem I encountered ;-)
For the technical background I've got PSE 13 installed on a Win 8.1 Laptop (Core I5, 8 GB RAM). Camera is a Canon EOS 60D with 18 MP.
I like to do macro photography and I wanted to use PSE13 for focus stacking to get a picture with higher dept of field.
Therefore, I used eight diffrently focused macro photos from a daisy blossom in raw format after processing them with the camera raw plugin.
I loaded them in photomerge ( ias "raw" but later I also tried as "jpg"s) and wanted to mark the region of the first photo to combine with the background picture.
When I zoomed in to about 150% the resolution of the image seems to have broken down and all I saw was the details in such a low resolution that I couldn't distinct between focused and not correct focused regiones. When I zoom in to the same magnification but at another point of the processings in PSE13 I do not experience this effect.
With that I cannot use PSE13 for focus stacking at all... That can't be it...
Has someone an idea whether I made a mistake or forgot to fix some settings issues or something?
Thanks in advance,
cheers,
Gruenblatt

Hello,
I'm new to this forum as well to Photoshop elements but I hope, someone can help me with the problem I encountered ;-)
For the technical background I've got PSE 13 installed on a Win 8.1 Laptop (Core I5, 8 GB RAM). Camera is a Canon EOS 60D with 18 MP.
I like to do macro photography and I wanted to use PSE13 for focus stacking to get a picture with higher dept of field.
Therefore, I used eight diffrently focused macro photos from a daisy blossom in raw format after processing them with the camera raw plugin.
I loaded them in photomerge ( ias "raw" but later I also tried as "jpg"s) and wanted to mark the region of the first photo to combine with the background picture.
When I zoomed in to about 150% the resolution of the image seems to have broken down and all I saw was the details in such a low resolution that I couldn't distinct between focused and not correct focused regiones. When I zoom in to the same magnification but at another point of the processings in PSE13 I do not experience this effect.
With that I cannot use PSE13 for focus stacking at all... That can't be it...
Has someone an idea whether I made a mistake or forgot to fix some settings issues or something?
Thanks in advance,
cheers,
Gruenblatt

Looking for Video Camera to measure crack length??????

I need to measure crack length in fatigue test of an Aluminium sample automatically. For example, the camera can take shots (Images) every 4000 cycles (fatigue load cycles), maybe more cycles.
For my test, I need to measure both sides crack length (right side and left side of specimen centre line), shown in Fig1. So I need to take shots both crack tips at the same time, which means camera must have a large field view and the resolution should measure 0.01mm, to see both crack tips clearly. At the end, I must be able to acquire images from Labview. I can save all the images into my fold from Labview, then I can measure crack lengths in left and right side from every image.
Would you please give me any suggestions on the characteristic/specifications of this kind of camera?
What kind of camera can I use? How much this kind of camera? Where can I order this kind of camera?
Attachments:
camera-Fig12.jpg ‏16 KB

Do you have the software that will analyze your images? If not, your camera is not your major cost here.
But for just cameras, check out edmund optics (edmundoptics.com I think). They have a camera selector guide that will at least give you an idea of the specs you actually need and the price range to look at.

Looking for a camera to take pictures of little (fast moving) kids

I am looking for a camera that will take picutres of my little ones (3 and 1). My old point and shoot (Nikon Cool pix I think) camera takes forever to focus and take the picture after I push the button so the kids have already moved by that time. And it also takes forever to 'record the picture' to be able to take another. I was looking at the Canon T3 or T3i. What are the real differences between the two? I used the compare feature on the website but that didn't really help me out.

You are correct to move to a DSLR for faster auto focus, faster response and faster saving images compared to a compact camera.
T3i costs more, has more resolution, and has a flip out screen compared to the T3.
You would be smarter to consider Nikon DSLR's for cross-type focus points for faster auto-focussing. Canon DSLR's do not have focus assist lighting which can have a harder time to autofocus in low light when indoors.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/d3100-digital-slr-camera-with-18-55mm-vr-lens/1222817.p?id=1218237704411...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/d3200-digital-slr-camera-with-18-55mm-vr-lens/5192349.p?id=1218642249528...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/d5100-16-2-megapixel-dslr-camera-with-18-55mm-lens-black/1308091165.p?id...
Go the store to try it out the DSLR's. If you want more auto-focussing, consider a good external flash, they have illumination lasers.

Tip for anyone wanting to increase their network download speed

I was just browsing the tips forum and came across a post for increasing download speeds. The results on my machine were fantastic. One download I had running for instance jumped from 27kbps to 56kpbs after applying.
Check it out here:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=122990&tstart=30

The serial number is what you pay for not what’s on the DVD as that is the same as what can be downloaded.
Boxes can be stolen and the serial-numbers they have can be blacklisted by Adobe when they discover the theft, so I’d be suspicious of boxes of Adobe software from a non-Adobe-reseller so be careful.
I’d suggest you buy a CS6 serial-number from Adobe, themselves, and download CS6 from Adobe or ProDesignTools, which links to Adobe’s servers.
CS6 can be purchased here:
http://www.adobe.com/products/catalog/cs6._sl_id-contentfilter_sl_catalog_sl_software_sl_c reativesuite6.html

Need how-to for setting Airport Extreme for web cam access

I am running OSX 10.5.2 on a MacBook Pro. Have recently installed an Axis internet cam. Can see it fine within the home network, but do not know what settings to input into the port mapping area of the airport extreme to see if from other internet locations. Really would appreciate step-by-step guidance. Thank you!

Please check out the following AirPort User Tip for details.

Tips for a workflow program

Hi all!
As always I post here when I feel I need a good advice. Today at work my boss told some of us that we need some kind of workflow editor, since all of our projects to date are requiring it and he would like to "automatize" some of the process.
As of now, all the workflow is done through databases. For example in any web app first we make a login form and based in the user/pass decide what components appear at the menu or what page gets displayed next.
What we want to do is a system to define the workflow for different users, so roles could be created and every role can have different workflows through the assets (in this case web pages only). Once all the paths have been laid out, based in your current role the system would validate your request of a given page.
I started to google around for clues in order to get an idea of such a system and came up with Enhydra Shark workflow server. Looking the documentation it seems it's similar of what we need. It would be great to deploy such a tool since it's pure Java, open source and it has a graphical workflow editor written in java also.
The problem is that it seems something like overkill for the problem we are trying to solve. Our needs only include permissions of different people accesing a web app which is currently done with databases.
Does our problem justify the deployment of a tool like Shark server? could a simple app be done in like 3 or 4 days to address our needs (with 3 ppl working on it) ?? Do you have any ideas of how such a system would work ??
Thanks a lot for any pointers on these questions.
btw the url for Enhydra Shark server is: http://shark.objectweb.org/

Lynda,
are there any tips for a beginner?
First tip is to forget that you are a beginner. This will allow you to:
Start imagining your first site and looking round at other sites in a relaxed way to decide how you wish it to appear and work (so you and the visitors are happy), how you can make it unique (so it will stand out and be (re)visited (by) more).
When you have a strong image of your first site, you may start working on it and decide the tools to serve that purpose, without having been trapped unnecessarily in what you have seen elsewhere and in the predominant uses and seeming limitations of the tools.
I hope this is not too far out.
Padding/Margin are just minor tools to adapt to the overall size/size of the contents, in other words, whether you work from the element boundary in/out (in the former case it only takes up its own space as specified, in the latter it takes up its own space and the margin.

Tip for ALL Graphics cards running under Windows

PLEASE STICKY THIS
This is a really useful tip for anyone running windows ME or XP.
It doesn't matter what card your installing and it really helped me out once.
Use System Restore
System restore is a simple utility Microsoft came up with for things like registry changes or putting new hardware/software in.
All you have to do is:
1. Set up system restore to monitor the hard drives or partitions you want it too. This can simply be done by going to start>all programs (or program files)>accessories>system setup>system restore. Once the window has opened choose system restore settings and from here you can change what hard drives are monitored and how much disk space restore can use.
2. Before you make a change to your card (whether it be drivers or putting a card in) open up system restore as in step '1' but choose create restore point. The system may hang for a minute then you will be told a restore point has been made.
3. Now any change you make to anything to do with the operating system will be noted by windows and the unchanged vesion will be kept in that hard drive space you specified in step '1'
4. Should the drivers screw up your system you can boot in safe mode (by hammering F8 between POST and OS loading screen) and when a dialog box comes up saying you have started in safe mode choose to run system restore.
NOTE: BIOS changes can NOT be undone in system restore, and if your computer won't boot at all your ed!!!
System restore should not be used if your computer is running ok, or if you can resolve the issues by changing drivers, using system restore can bring back spyware, viruses and trojans! If there is a power failure or your PC crashes when running system restore yu may need to format your hard drive.

Quote from: ratkid132 on 08-April-05, 02:31:10
This is a really useful tip for anyone running windows 2000 or XP.
It doesn't matter what card your installing and it really helped me out once.
Use System Restore System restore is a simple utility Microsoft came up with for things like registry changes or putting new hardware/software in.
System Restore is only available in Windows XP.
Most video driver related problems can be solved by uninstalling the old drivers, rebooting, and cancelling the "found new hardware" dialog before running the new driver installer.

Urgent Help Needed for WVC210 camera setup :)

Please help! I am trying to set up a Cisco WVC210 surveilance camera at one of the stores owned by the company I work for. Its a small business and I am the closest they have to an I.T person !! I have plenty of experience with software but not much on networking so need some idiot proof guidance ! The "administrative guide" is not worth the paper it is printed on!!
The store has a fixed IP address of 212.9.##.### I connected the camera using ethernet cable. Set the camera up using the software for the camera, with static ip address of 192.168.0.23. Set the SSID of the camera to that of the router (a Netgear one). It worked fine. I went to unplug so I could have it wireless and NOTHING !! It did work one time (no idea what i did differently!) but it would not work over the internet which is what we need it to do! I need the whole thing password protected too!
Is there ANYONE who can help me please??? I am at the point of running away from my work and never returning !!!! :s
Thank you

Hi Jodie,
Thank you for posting. In order to make the camera connect wirelessly, first set up the wireless settings in the camera to match the router. I usually open the router configuration page and copy and paste the SSID and Security Passphrase to the camera to avoid error. The next step is to unplug the ethernet cable and power cord from the camera. Then plug only the power back in and the camera should connect wirelessly.
For remote access to the camera you will need to forward port 80 to the LAN IP address of the camera. (192.168.0.23) This is done in the router. If you need help with port forwarding, you can search the web or call Netgear for assistance.
If you continue to need assistance with the camera, the fastest and easiest way to get assistance is to call Cisco Small Business Support. www.cisco.com/go/sbsc
Please go to www.cisco.com and click on "Register" in the upper right to create a user ID. This will allow our engineers to create a case for you.

I have question about hooking up an external hdd to a time capsule and still have my printer hooked up as well. Anyone got any tips for me, how to do it and what brand of harddrive that will work best for me 1 or 2 TB

i have question about hooking up an external hdd to a time capsule and still have my printer hooked up as well. Anyone got any tips for me, how to do it and what brand of harddrive that will work best for me 1 or 2 TB

You just need a powered hub.. if you already use one then fine.
Plug in just about any external hard disk will work fine. Format has to be readable by the TC.. ie fat32.. or much better HFS+.. plug it into a Mac to prepare the drive.
Pick whatever size suits.. nowadays 2TB are most economical.
WD, Seagate have goobled up all the minor players.. so pick one.
Whatever suits your budget and asthetics.
NOTE.. The USB on the TC is fine for printers.. IMHO it is the wrong way to go with USB disks.. use the internal disk of the TC.. USB is less than half the native speed plugged into a Mac.. TC to USB is slow.. far slower than internal drive.. or using external drive as external.

Tips for focusing camera?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for