Tips for quick logging of digitalized footage

I just recently came over to final cut pro express from avid express, which used "locators" as a quick and convenient way to mark selected clips through a color coded dot system. Is there an equally quick way I can mark or code selected clips as I play back my digitalized footage in FCP Express? I need to quickly find a way to locate highlights in basketball games.

Thanks. Markers come close to Avid's Locators. Prob is that every time I open up Edit Marker window my extended clip freezes. I can no longer play the whole clip. What's up with that?
ManorVail
Look into Markers. Unfortunately I'm pretty mac-less
at the mo' so I can't help you with keyboard commands
or menus.
However, they should do the trick. I think even allow
comments and when marking a long clip you can easily
flick through it by going to the next marker,
previous marker, etc.
You can also use extended markers to mark a length of
time, not just a point in time. These can be useful
for making sub-clips of the longer clip.
Sorry, I can't be of more help, but that should give
you something to search for.
A few general tips:
1) The usual response with software forums is to RTM,
not the case here as a lot of the FCE manual is
incorrect and refers to features only found it it's
big brother FCP
2) therefore a good book would be a better
alternative. Many recommendations here

Similar Messages

  • Tip for quickly selecting contrasting colours?

    Hello,
    I have a custom brush defined of my signature that I put on my photos. As I want the signature to be subtle so it doesn't detract from the photo, I use a colour that almost blends with the colours in that corner of the photo. The signature is visible, yet it doesn't attract attention.
    As examples, the signature would be a shade of green over grass, blue over ocean, grey over asphalt, etc.
    Selecting the color to use is trial-and-error, tweaking it several times so it isn't too bright, too dark, or too contrasting with the background. As each photo needs a different colour, this becomes time consuming after hundreds of images.
    Is there a tool or other way in PS (either CS2 or CS4) to select a colour like this more quickly? Perhaps one that picks an "average" colour from the area for the signature, and then tunes it a bit brighter or darker so it will show up?
    At the moment I an experimenting with using the Eye Dropper, set to 101x101 sample averaging (the largest available). So with the signature brush selected, I Alt-click to get this average colour. But then I still need to make the colour lighter or darker, otherwise the signature blends in too well, almost invisible. Is their a shortcut key way to lighten or darken the selected foreground colour?
    Thanks,
    KDJ

    Thanks all!
    I hoped changing the brush or layer blends modes alone might do it. On more-or-less gradual background tones, it sometimes works okay. However on busier backgrounds (like grass!), the signature becomes very speckled as almost each pixel takes on a different colour. Unfortunately the effect makes the sig simultaneously both very conspicuous and impossible to read :D
    Ho, interesting tool, though not sure how it fits in within PS to select colour based on one area of the image.
    J Maloney, I tried following your steps, though not sure I understand what you meant. For "select thay layer trans", unpainted areas of my layers are transparent by default. Do you mean set Opacity to 0%? Or select the transparent areas of the layer, by ctrl-click the layer icon and then Invert Selection? And what do I select for your second Copy Merged? And why two Copy Merges? Can the blending be set on the first layer instead, and skip one?
    The Blur Average step might help with the pixelation mentioned above.
    I can see this is going to take some experimenting to make fire-and-forget-automated..., variables such as the starting colour, blend type, etc., need to be robust enough so that a single setting works for all images.
    Thanks,
    KDJ

  • Quick Tips For Speed Your Digital Publishing WorkFlow

    I think that we have a great problem with our Digital Publishing Workflow's speed . I talk about, for example, of set up State Objets Sliedshows for multiple page, and I mean, there are another similar examples about that. Do you know if does exist more tips for speed our workflow in InDesign for Digital Publishing Output?
    Thanks a lot!
    Sorry for my bad english.
    Bye!
    Marco Toscano

    Muito abrigado my friend!  Seriously thanks a million, but I was curious to know about my situation regarding replacing my first shot multiple times... In another words there's a clip already in the storyline which won't allow me to replace edit since it just moves out of the way.  Would you just go back into the browser and add the original selection to the first clip?  Because I kept having to move my connected music and solid I just gave up and would wait until the end to add the music and solid (I add the solid to give the background a different color when I want to create the letterbox effect). 
    I just watched a music video tutorial where someone created a 3 minute solid, made like a hundred cuts with the blade tool and manually dragged each clip from his browser to replace from start for each of those cuts in the solid...
    What is your workflow for music-based edits?  Do you place the song in the primary story line and use the video as connected clips?  Do you use a solid or gap clip and dissect it with cuts and replace the segments with clips? I really hate not being able to add markers to the timeline and must make those marks on a clip/generator/music track of some kind.  Also if you have a project that has the same settings with fps, crop size, solid as a background is there a way to make template so I don't have to do that each and every time?
    Thanks again my friend!!!
    Anthony

  • Tips for logging previously captured footage

    Hi I just wanted to get some tips on how to best log previously captured footage. I was thinking of using extended markers. Any other ideas? Thank you!

    I go in and hack up the footage using either Add Edit or Set In/Out>Delete the unwanted stuff (custom hotkeys rule!). Then I rearrange the footage into various Sequences as I need them.
    So, if it were a year end Sports Memory video, I'd put all the running shots in a Running Sequence, and all the eating shots in an Eating Sequence, or whatever. If it were a Wedding I'd put all the Ceremony footage in a Ceremony Timeline... etc.
    Since the footage is already there, I just start hacking out the stuff I don't want. Of course, I don't know what kind of project this is, and if it's a documentary, this method will probably not work. But, I guess it depends on the documentary too. <smile>
    ~Luke

  • My ipad will not let me slide to log in, or power off. i have tried to hold down the sleep and home button at the same time, but that did not work. Do you have any tips for me? Thanks

    my ipad will not let me slide to log in, or power off. I have tried to hold down the sleep and home button at the same time, but that did not work. D o you have any tips for me? Thanks.

    recovery mode
    open itunes on computer
    plug cable into computer not iOS device
    turn phone off
    hold home button and plug cable into phone.  do not release home button until an itunes graphic appears on device.
    look to computer should have message about recovery mode click ok and restore
    Peace, Clyde
    if u need an article see
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1808

  • Any new tips for making Garageband run quicker (Delay/Lag)?

    Hey all
    AI was just wondering if anyone had come up with any new tips for making Garageband run quicker? Theres such a delay form when I move the cursor or press play to when anything actually happens.
    Ive tried everything here
    http://www.bulletsandbones.com/GB/FAQPages/Optimize.html
    But its not really made anything quicker
    I don't know where this option is though?
    Make sure your Energy Saver System Prefs is set to Highest Performance, if this is an option
    I'm not using any effects/plugins (yet) on my song, but will start mixing EQing/using plugins soon so need to try and stop
    It really slowed down when I recorded (and copy pasted) a load of handclaps into it over the entire song and onto multiple tracks.
    I'm running Snow Leopard 10.6.8 3.06GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
    4GB 1067 MHz DDR3
    Ive got 120GB of space left on my 500GB hard drive
    Any ideas or newer tips anyone?
    I'm running 39 tracks by the way.
    Thanks

    bump

  • I have a Macbook Pro 15" that is three and a half years old.  Although it has slowed a bit, it still runs well and runs every program I need. Any tips for how to keep this old computer running well and in good health?

    I have a Macbook Pro 15" that is three and a half years old.  Although it has slowed a bit, it still runs well and runs every program I need. Any tips for how to keep this old computer running well and in good health?
    I have a 250 gig drive and try to keep at least 100 gigs unused at all times, 4 GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM memory, back up with Time Machine and CrashPlan, and have OS X 10.7.3.
    This was my first Mac since an old Apple II GS.  After that I used PC's and got really good at reformatting, replacing drives, reinstalling, defragging, resolving software conflicts, etc.  Since switching back to Macs (five in my extended family now), I haven't had to do any of those things. So, although, the cost is three times as much, the aggrevation has been ten times less.
    I'm retired and living on a fixed income and would therefore like to keep this computer running as opposed to constatntly upgrading.
    That said, any tips?
    Thanks
    It does have a crack on the left of the screen case about 3/4'' up from the bottom.  I've posted that as another question.

    Kappy's Personal Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
    For disk repairs use Disk Utility.  For situations DU cannot handle the best third-party utilities are: Disk Warrior;  DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible. Drive Genius provides additional tools not found in Disk Warrior.  Versions 1.5.1 and later are Intel Mac compatible.
    OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep.  Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger.  These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard or Lion and should not be installed.
    OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive. As for virus protection there are few if any such animals affecting OS X. You can protect the computer easily using the freeware Open Source virus protection software ClamXAV. Personally I would avoid most commercial anti-virus software because of their potential for causing problems. For more about malware see Macintosh Virus Guide.
    I would also recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX 2.4.3, or Cocktail 5.1.1 that you can use for periodic maintenance such as removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc.
    For emergency repairs install the freeware utility Applejack.  If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line.  Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. There is no confirmation that this version also works with Lion.
    When you install any new system software or updates be sure to repair the hard drive and permissions beforehand. I also recommend booting into safe mode before doing system software updates.
    Get an external Firewire drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
    Carbon Copy Cloner
    Data Backup
    Deja Vu
    SuperDuper!
    SyncTwoFolders
    Synk Pro
    Synk Standard
    Tri-Backup
    Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on maintenance, optimization, virus protection, and backup and restore.
    Additional suggestions will be found in Mac Maintenance Quick Assist.
    Referenced software can be found at CNet Downloads or MacUpdate.
    Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity as free space.
    Adding more RAM, if feasible, and a new, faster hard drive may also help pep it up a little.

  • Looking for equivilent of Microsoft Digital Image Pro 10

    Sorry if this is in the wrong topic, didn't know where to post....
    I am a new Mac user and am loving my MacBook, but iPhoto isn't quite doing enough for me when it comes to working with and editing pictures. I've used Microsoft Digital Image Pro on my PC for the last few years, and REALLY like it, although of course they don't make it for macs. Any ideas on a program that would be the equivilent for macs? I don't want something as comlicated as Photoshop, but a little more than iPhoto. Thanks!

    Here's a tip for controlling iPhoto's red-eye tool. It also works with the Retouch tool:
    * Type Caps lock + Control + 9
    * Undo caps lock
    * Click on Retouch or the Red-Eye Removal tool.
    * The tab key will toggle between cursor types, a cross or a circle for Red-Eye removal tool and between darken and lighten in the Retouch tool.
    * The "[" and "]" keys decrease or increase the size accordingly.
    * To get a lighter pupil with the red-eye tool, Shift-Click inside the circular curser.
    NOTE: Using the "{" "}" keys will will change the value next to the circle and that represents the degree of change or intensity that the Retouch tool imparts on each pass.
    Thanks to Old Toad for the above information.
    I have found that in some situations where Elements absolutely refuses to correct the red-eye properly, I can get a better adjustment using iPhoto. But without the use of this secret mode, it is pretty much useless.
    As far as iPhoto's capabilities, it is a really powerful image organizer with a few editing features for added convenience. What makes it better than other organizers is that it is not a file browser, it is a database application. Once you give the database some information, you can use that info to search and group your photos in almost infinite ways very quickly and easily. You can print your own cards, too. If you've had trouble with the 7 X 10 size you may benefit from Old Toad's tutorial. See his posts in this thread for an explanation and link: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4605228
    I agree with you that Elements can be complicated and overwhelming. It has so many features that it can be challenging trying to figure out which ones you need to correct your photo. When editing a group of photos I try to keep it simple: adjust the levels, lighten shadows (a must for many indoor shots), fix red-eye, crop. Plus, I do love the healing brush (band-aid tool) for removing the odd spec of anything that doesn't belong. My Elements experience was greatly improved after I bought and read a good book. You can get one that will tell you which features really work, which ones are more of a gimmick, and how to do the things you need to do most. If you can get through the learning curve, then the tools I listed really are quick and simple to use.
    Good luck.

  • Can i use exfat format for my external western digital harddrive so that i can use in both windows and mac?

    can i use exfat format for my external western digital harddrive so that i can use in both windows and mac?
    thanks in advance.
    <Email Edited by Host>

    Yes you can. OS X version 10.6.6 and later can read/write exFAT. Windows XP SP3 and later can read/write exFAT. As posted by Radiation Mac, you can do it from Windows or from OS X.
    However, I've noticed Windows to be somewhat picky about drives formatted on a Mac. So, if Windows can't read it, try formatting it on the Windows machine, and see how it works on the Mac.
    Posting your email on a public forum isn't a very good idea. It will likely be harvested by spambots and used as the reply-to address for spam it sends out.
    Also, most people are not going to send an email to you for similar reasons. Nobody knows who you are, so sending an email to you could be giving a spammer a valid email address.
    The forum is set up to automatically notify you when there are responses to your questions. When you get one, you would log back into this forum and check to see what the answer was.

  • Tips For Solving the Mac OS X Lion Slowness (Lots of Beach Balls)

    Hi Folks,
    Just a quick list of tips for this issue that some of Mac OS X Lion users face.
    The main symptom is that we get the Beach Ball on almost any task, it takes 4, maybe five times more time to do what we need to do. So depending on the schedule, it can drive us crazy. I was facing that, and started to think that Lion was a Windows Vista relative.
    Please remind that the tips below involve backing up and restoring your system. If you are not careful, you may lose everything. You are responsible for your acts. Be cautious!
    How I solved my issue:
    1) Checked for Disk Permissions and the Disk itself:
    - Applications / Utilities / Disk Utility:
    - Click on your disk, and then VERIFY DISK. If everything is OK, move on. If it is not, REPAIR DISK.
    - Now click on VERIFY DISK PERMISSIONS. If everthing is OK, move. If not, Repair.
    This step 1 is to make sure that your slowness is due to something related to the OS itself and not to permissions/disk.
    If this solves the slowness, then you are OK. Now further steps are necessary. In my case, this just helped a little bit. The beach-balling reduced by 20% only. Still too slow.
    2) Do a full backup of your system.
    I used Time Machine. Make sure you have all of your applications closed. So the backup will be full. If you fail to do a good backup, you will lose everything! Make sure you do a good one. Maybe do it twice on 2 different disks! Now you have been warned.
    3) Do a Full Restore of your entire system.
    Now, get that Install CD that came with your Mac,
    - Put it on your drive, shut down your computer.
    - While holding the C key, press the start button of your Mac. It will boot using the Install CD that came with your Mac.
    To recover your entire system:
    Connect your Time Machine backup disk to your computer. If you’re restoring your system because of a problem with your startup disk, make sure the disk has been repaired or replaced.
    Insert your Mac OS X Install disk, and double-click the Install Mac OS X icon.
    In the Installer, choose Utilities > Restore System from Backup.
    In the Restore Your System dialog, click Continue.
    Select your Time Machine backup volume.
    Select the Time Machine backup you want to restore.
    Follow the onscreen instructions.
    4) Remove the CD, and boot.
    When I did that, the system came back very fast and responsive. No more beach balls (only on the really-intensive tasks), and everything was back to normal.
    5) So, what was it anyways?
    Before doing this Backup/Restore, I was getting lots of DISK I/O ERRORS, specially during boot time (you can check that by shutting down your mac, powering it back on and imediatelly pressing Command-V - Verbose Mode).
    Sure, the first thing in mind was that I had a faulty hard drive, but I checked it several times for errors (via Disk Utility), and nothing showed up.
    So I decided to do a full backup/restore of the system. And it solved it, at least for me.
    My config:
    MacBook Pro (2009 edition) - 5 GB RAM - 640 GB HD - Mac OS X 10.7
    Regards.

    Also my mac will not complete my 5 software updates, no idea which software, but it said it could not do it. Also backing up with time machine had failed twice today. Thanks

  • DFF on AP Payment not editable for quick payments

    We are using R12 12.0.6
    We opened a DFF on AP Payments but it only enables for manual payment type
    And we only use Quick Payment Type..For quick Payment, this DFF appears disabled althoiugh its enabled and compiled from Setup>flexfields>descriptive>segments
    Please Help
    Thanks

    Hi,
    As you see from Bug 6696171 (referenced in the same document) that there is no workaround, and this is standard product functionality.
    I would suggest you log a SR, and see if Oracle support can help.
    It would be great if you edit your previous post as copying Metalink notes contents is illegal.
    Regards,
    Hussein

  • Error: "DoFunction fork failed" in the Messaging Server 3.x logs on Digital Unix or AIX

    Receiving error message DoFunction fork failed in the Messaging Server 3.x logs
    on Digital Unix or AIX.
    <P>
    The dxkerneltuner command is one way to raise the number of user
    processes on Digital Unix. Steps follow:
    <OL>
    <LI>Login as root (or su to root) on Digital Unix and execute the
    dxkerneltuner command.
    <P>An X-Windows window will pop up with a list of
    kernel subsystems (tuning categories).
    <P>
    <LI>Double-click the "proc" subsystem.
    <P>
    A child window will pop up, displaying parameters in that category, along with
    their associated values and limits. These should include parameters
    named "max-proc-per-user" and "max-threads-per-user", which are by default,
    64 and 267 respectively.
    <P>
    These should be replaced by values more
    consistent with the Messaging Servers resource requirements. Provided
    the default Messaging Server installation is used, more appropriate values
    for these parameters would be 640 and 2560 respectively.
    <P>
    <LI>To implement
    these new values, replace the value 64 with 640 for max-proc-per-user in the
    child window and replace the value 267 with 2560 for max-thread-per-user.
    <LI>Click OK on the child window and exit the parent window.
    <LI>Reboot Digital Unix to implement the kernel changes.

    I have bkp OD, trash server.app / reboot / install server.app again and working fine now.
    Thanks !

  • Tips for best quality?

    I've got a full res SD quicktime movie that I want to put onto DVD....how can I get the best quality out of this video on DVD through compressor....should I just choose best quality with a 2 pass vbr?

    Does anyone have any tips for best quality imovie3 exports but keeping file.
    Here is a quick Apple tutorial introduction that may be of some help:
    http://www.apple.com/quicktime/tutorials/h264.html
    I personally use the QVGA (AKA "Internet Content") H.264 settings for everything from family site clips to iPod compatible files. 400 kb with stereo 128kb audio should produce a good quality file at 29.97/30 fps which is on the order of 4 MBs per minute of content and are suitible for DSL/Cable QuickStart viewing. You can, of course further reduce file size by decreasing data rates, frame rates, target display size, etc. However, to my mind, the quality suffers and becomes unacceptable for my purposes. QT Kirk has other tricks such as further halving the dimensions and then doubling the playback display. This would get you down to the approximately 1 MB per minute mark or sub 1 MB rage when couple with reduced data/frame rates. Basically, you are only limited by your own idea as to the minimum level of acceptable quality.

  • Can I process more than 1000 I/Os for data logging?

    My process requires 1000 digital input for data logging and 500 digital output for HMI display.
    Can I use Lookout for this application?

    The I/O count is well within the capabilities of Lookout. If you are working with this size of an application you should look into the features of Lookout 5.0. There are means to backup your data from a different computer. Also view and export your data easily from the new Historical Data Viewer. There has always been means for redundancy. Going through a course manual also helps, class or self paced.

  • Any Tips for editing Live Event 2 camera shoot?

    I need to quickly edit a 2 DV camera recording of a live multi-scene performance (duration of 90 minutes), with audio additionally recorded on a good quality remote mic.
    I have used FCE for some time, but not for several months. I have managed to forget many of the lessons learnt through trial and error, as well as by reading Tom wolsky's FCE Editing Workshop! So shortcut tips would be very helpful.
    I am also using FCE 3.5 for the first time after my upgrade.
    1
    I want to make a safety copy of the synced rushes, as well as keeping the original camera sound recording as a back-up guide track.
    2
    I am worried about making sure I am working with Master clips, so that when I edit I don't mess up any of the source material. I am a little confused.
    3
    I would appreciate anyone with any suggestions or tips for the best edit process, and any warnings or other guidance. Speed is of essence. (ie there is no budget).
    4
    I am considering making separate sequences for each scene (14 scenes in all of varying length and complexity). Is this advisable rather than creating one programme length sequence?
    5
    I am considering making the audio into one mono track for simplicity, as the auditorium acoustics have "mixed up" the sound, with little stereo separation. Should I then duplicate the track to build the sound quality at the end?
    Any other general Tips always welcome.
    Thank you in advance. I appreciate all the unsung contributors to this group.
    Freesh

    I am a pretty good source for basic sound info - you can email me if you like
    [email protected]
    you are right about the link - I am sorry - i checked the website before I typed the link in too! A blond moment
    A low shelf filter - as included in FCE and soundtrack cuts the bottom off a soundmix. 20hz is a low frequency - not many speaker systems can reproduce this frequency, and most speaker systems can't even get to 40hz - even you high fi system or speakers which say they may be able too present sound for 20hz to 20khz - well unless you have spent an aweful lot of money and have a sub bass speaker the size of a car probably may only go down to 40hz, and the production of any 20hz sounds is more likely a feeling - a psychoacousticc effect. The thing about cutting off the bass is that practically it can make the recording sound less muddy, and you can make the recording sound louder. Most recordings for CD play have the bass started to roll of pretty heavily at 40hz and nothing present at 20hz... theirs this thing called narquist theory which talks about frequency responce - but it is this math heavy thing - so basically cut out a good amount of the sub bass. A low shelf filter does this and If you want to be conservative cut below 20hz, and if you want to be real give it a good cut below 35hz.
    Now I was sure that their was a mac version of that monofilter that I saw on the web page - I have a PC and do most of my audio work on a PC as that is what I have used the most. If you can get the mono filter work it will make the bottom end sound much better - more natural - less clicky and perhaps abnoxious.... those of us who like trip hop are always striving to get a nice warm bass that represents itself well on a range of speakers. something smooth - it is a bit of a trick - monofilter is one of those tricks.
    If you put the bass in mono (below 250hz ish) and keep the phase right speakers find it easier to work with the signal. Also stereo bass is not something that translates well on speakers... Bass tends to just flood the room where as the more mid and trebbly sounds give the audio a feeling of distance and space and left and right. The monofilter has a bass compression/limiting and phase correction built itno it, and implimented on a slider called 'trim'. Listen to your recording on good speakers and probably just bring the trim down a touch (my guess)... as complex as it sounds the monofilter is very easy to use, and is super clever. Now I thought that nugen had a mac audio unit plugin - that is a pity if they don't and kind of makes my advice seem irelevant unless you are prepared to download an application that can use VST's.
    Amy
    be careful using an eq as most eq's disrupt the phase of the signal and can reek havok on live recordings. but do give it a low shelf filter at least below -20 but probably below -40 to -80 for practicalitys sake
    This is a bit over my head, I am afraid. Do you know a source of basic info for sound recording to help explain such things? It could be a book or an online resource?
    lol, what i meant was 20hz or 40 too 80hz - their is a low shelf filter in soundtrack that works well - I am talking about cutting off the low frequency bits of the recording here. Nugen audio has a little pdf that comes out with the monofilter talking about bass signals... I know it is geared towards music and perhaps music that you want to have a nice bass feel - however it translates to the real world too - You will be suprised at how great your audio will sound if you cut off a chunk of the sub bass, and put the low bass in mono.
    then you could look at exciting the signal - but that is another story....

Maybe you are looking for

  • How to deploy Oracle Forms & Reports in Weblogic Server 11g (10.3)?

    Hi How to deploy Oracle Forms & Reports in Weblogic Server 11g (10.3)? Thanks

  • View PDF comments in Adobe Reader for iOS

    Adobe Reader XI for Mac and PC can display a "Comments List" to show all of the comments that have been added to the document using the annotation features. Clicking on a comment scrolls the PDF document to where the comment was entered. Could this f

  • Polymorphic question

    this is one of the questions for the java exam . i don't seem to understand the answer. class SuperBase     void print (SuperBase a)         System.out.print("Super"); class Base extends SuperBase     void print (Base b)         System.out.print("Bas

  • Convert SAP format YYYYMMDD to MM/DD/YYYY format.

    Hi folks, I using a ALV FM (K_KKB_FIELDCAT_MERGE)to display the data using.In 4.6 version the  date format used to display in MM/DD/YYY format whereas after the upgrade to ECC 6.0 version the date format is know dispalying in Sap std format YYYYMMMDD

  • The timeout of RFC/BPM

    I have 2 scenarios 1. RFC1 -> XI -> MQ (AP1) -> XI -> RFC1 (synchronous/asynchronous bridge)     ps: AP1 gets the message from MQ and put the response into MQ 2. MQ -> XI -> RFC2 -> XI -> MQ (asynchronous/synchronous bridge) But sometimes AP1 and RFC