To set classpath or unset classpath? That is the question

I notice that Sun application examples make a point of unsetting the classpath when starting rmiregistry. In Windows they suggest the command:
unset CLASSPATH
but I have found that I get the response:
Bad command or file name
Any suggestions?
However, having said this, I have found it advantageous to having the classpath set when I start the rmiregistry for the following reason:
When I try this sequence of commands, things seem to work pretty simply:
set classpath=c:\javaWork\project
start rmiregistry
java Server
However, if I try it this way, the java command line has to be more complicated:
start rmiregistry
set classpath=c:\javaWork\project
java -Djava.rmi.server.codebase=file:/c:/javaWork/project/ Server
Is there any reason I shouldn't use the first way of going about it? Or a compelling reason for going for the second approach?
Thanks, Rob

Yes, and to reiterate daney's post ...regarding the question in your header... if the rmiregistry can find the classes in the classpath, it will make no attempt to download the stubs to your client. Since it sounds like you are supplying permanent stubs with your client, this will be of no concern to you. However, that is the explanation as to why you keep comimg accross this information in your sources. :-}

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    Your understanding  was absolutely right.
    Sorry my mistake its QNAP 639 PRO, populated with 5 1TB, one is empty.
    So for my understanding, in my configuration you suggest NOT to use RAID-0. Im not willing to have more drives in my workstation becouse if my projekts are finished, i archiv on QNAP or archiv on other external drive.
    My only intention is to have as much speed and as much performance as possible during developing a projekt 
    BTW QNAP i also use as media-center in combination with Sony PS3 to run the encoded files.
    For my final understanding:
    C:  i understand
    D: i understand
    E and F: does it mean, when i create a projekt on E, all my captured and project-used MPEG - files should be situated in F?  Or which media in F you mean?
    Following your suggestions in want to rebulid Harms-Best Vista64-Benchmark comp to reach maximum speed and performance. Can i use in general the those hardware components (exept so many HD drives and exept Areca raid controller ) in my drive configuration C to F. Or would you suggest some changings in my situation?

  • SSD's or pair of Velociraptors? That is the question...

    HI All,
    An exciting and long awaited day.... I've made my jump and just finished ordering a new Mac Pro! Yippeee!!! A very good day, this is! I opted to go for the 2.66ghz eight-core Nehalem with the Radeon 4870 graphics card. Other than that, I did not add anything at Apple but will instead be adding to mine through other manufacturers' products; namely RAM, hard drives and, eventually, a RAID card.
    Ram-wise, I'm ordering four 2gig modules to start. I'll load them in the first four slots and put four of the supplied 1gig modules into the remaining slots for a total of 12 gigs of RAM. Once the cost of 4gb modules comes down to something more reasonable, I'll purchase four 4GB modules, shuffle the deck and end up with a total of 24gb of ram, (4 x 4gb plus 4 x 2gb.). Should be good. I'm certain that starting out with 12gbs will keep me happy to start.
    As for hard drives, I'm not quite sure which route to take and this is where I need guidance and opinions/thoughts...
    Background first: I have decided to postpone investing in hardware RAID until the card makers have fully caught up with the new Mac Pro's technical ways with the drive sleds and plug-in system etc.. In the meantime, I am planning on filling the four bays and just keeping things clean and simple for now (no software RAID).
    What hard drives would you recommend? What thoughts do you have on solid state drives vs. high RPM drives?
    What I think I want to do is to buy one of Intel's 160GB X25-M solid state drives...
    http://www.intel.com/design/flash/nand/extreme/index.htm
    I'll install it using MaxUpgrade's sleds...
    http://www.maxupgrades.com/istore/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_I D=180
    This SSD will be the boot drive and hold the rest of my application software.
    (Once I have a RAID card, I'd jump for a second 160GB X25-M drive and set them on RAID 0.)
    In the other two bays, I will be installing two 300GB WD Velociraptors for all of my data files. Once I have a RAID card, I'll set them up on RAID 0.
    Backing up will be done externally on one of Apple's 1TB TimeCapsules.
    My questions are these:
    Does this all sound good and logical?
    Would it be nearly as good to run with four Velociraptors? (straight up to start then, with RAID card in, as a pair of RAID 0 sets)
    Another thing:
    Intel makes two models of their solid state drives; the 160GB or 80GB X25-M models or the 32GB or 64GB X25-E models. The X25-E drives are faster but how much faster? Plus, of course, a pair of the 64GB drives would only give me 128GB's of capacity (and cost a heck of a lot). On my current computer's boot and apps drive, of it's 300GB capacity, 108GB's is filled. If I were to move my cad and rendering programs' libraries off of this drive (and onto next-in-line Velociraptor) that 108GBs would reduce to approximately 80GB's.
    Would a pair of Intel's 64GB X25-E drives, with 80 of it's total 128GB's of space filled, run well?
    Is that the ultimate direction I should go for?
    Or would things run nearly as well using one of the 160GB X25-M drives?
    I also wonder if a single SSD 'boot and apps' drive setup might be more stable.. I need your help!
    No matter which way I go, it's going to cost. I want to make the best and most fully correct choices here. Your help's appreciated.
    thanks,
    JQ

    Cheetah® 15K.5 SAS 3Gb/s:
    http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=2089796377033110VgnVCM100000f5ee 0a0aRCRD&locale=en-US
    http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?locale=en-US&name=Cheetah®15K.5_SAS_3Gb/s_300-GB_Hard_Drive_-ST3300655SS&vgnextoid=f0214e92987c0110VgnVCM100000f5ee0a0aRCRD&vgnextchannel=4d0 2d3a0140fc010VgnVCM100000dd04090aRCRD&reqPage=Model

  • To backup or not to backup...that is the question

    ok, of course we should all back up regularly, that's not really the question. I'm wondering specifically what the benefits are of backing up the OS if you have your original install discs.
    My understanding is that if your system crashes, you want to be able to boot up your system from another copy of the OS. If you have the disc, no need to back up to an external right?
    Of course I've backed up my user folder but I just want to make sure I'm not risking anything by not having another copy of my OS on the external as well.
    Thanks in advance!

    1. Kevin wrote: "What's the difference between a Backup Set and duplicating a volume in a folder?"The differences between Duplicates and Backup Sets are discussed in my "Backup and Recovery" FAQ.
    Basically:
    - Backup Sets save all the files one has backed up in a single file, similar to a disk image, but without all the time required to create a disk image. A Catalog file of the contents of the Backup Set is also created. One accesses the contents of a Backup Set through the Restore function of Retrospect. So, the files in the Backup Set aren't "in the clear" i.e. you can't simply copy them from the Backup Set in Finder. Backup Sets can also be compressed and encrypted. Duplicates cannot.
    - As noted in my prior post, a Duplicate to a folder permits you to to access the files you've backed up via Finder. The volume you've Duplicated to the folder is copied to the folder, just as if it was copied to another volume, but isn't bootable (assuming the volume you duplicated was bootable) since you can't boot from a folder.
    2. You wrote: "In SuperDuper! you can create a disk image with Disk Utility and clone to that disk image and, I think you can boot from the disk image as well. A partition is better but the disk image is good in a pinch."Yes, with SD you can duplicate to a sparse image, but you can't boot from that image. It will work in a pinch, but not every basic backup app supports this function.
    It's also unclear (not addressed specifically in the SD documentation) if you can Smart Update a backup to a Sparse Image: I suspect not. Sparse images are tricky. For example, deleting files from them does not recover the space the files occupied: one has to use hdiutil compact to recover the space occupied by deleted files in a sparse image. The compact operation is what FileVault is doing when it periodically prompts users to recover space from their encrypted Home folders.
    Backup Sets can be updated incrementally: new or changed files can be added to the Backup Set. Each incremental backup to a Backup Set is known as a session. This can be a useful feature since it does not replace the originals from previous backups. This has some nice attributes:
    - If you regularly backup to a Backup Set and want to get an earlier version of a file you've been working on that has been regularly backed up to a Backup Set, you can restore a prior version of that file from the Backup Set. If you Smart Update a duplicate in SD, no old versions are saved.
    - Likewise, if you trash a file, empty the trash, and use SD Smart Update to backup the volume on which that file resided, the file is gone from the backup and your hard drive. If you've regularly backed up that volume to a Retrospect Backup Set, you can restore that file — in the state it was in at any prior time it was backed up to that Backup Set — from the Backup Set.
    The Restore function of Retrospect lets you access the individual sessions (incremental backups) saved in a Backup Set. You can restore one or more files or folders —  or an entire disk — to any point in time within the time span of the sessions in the Backup Set. This is very useful in project-based work, where one may have many versions of documents and need a copy of an earlier version of some project file that was either updated (without first saving a copy) or trashed.
    So, SD's sparse image capability is good in a pinch, but not as flexible or versatile as Retrospect's Backup Sets.
    I'm a big fan of Backup Sets.
    Good luck!
    Dr. Smoke
    Author: Troubleshooting Mac® OS X
    Note: The information provided in the link(s) above is freely available. However, because I own The X Lab™, a commercial Web site to which some of these links point, the Apple Discussions Terms of Use require I include the following disclosure statement with this post:
    I may receive some form of compensation, financial or otherwise, from my recommendation or link.

  • To Stream or to download: That is the Question.

    Hi,
    Until recently i have only used my iTunes library for music only.
    I am toying with the idea of now using it for films and tv shows.
    So, present set up is that i have apple TV which is connected to my home computer on the same network.
    Q
    1. If i buy a movie to own from my pc which has my itunes laptop on a conncted external HDD, Im assuming the movie downloads to the external HDD and is yours.
    2. If you buy a movie from Apple TV to own is it simply unlimted streaming of the movie that you get as opposed to the movie file download to the storage location of your itunes library?
    If you simply select the rent options from Apple TV or PC i assume its simply streaming of the movie you get, but more interested if i buy to own. Is it always fully dowloaded or streamed and is it different depending if you are using a PC or Apple TV?
    Appreciate your help with the query folks.
    Best Regards
    Simon.

    pogbellies wrote:
    I would like to use Google Music as a back up. I already have iTunes Match but I like that with the Google setup I can choose whether to stream or download.
    Neither iTunes Match nor Google Music are advertised as backup services. I strongly suggest you not rely on them as such and purchase an external HDD to backup your personal data.
    pogbellies wrote:
    The question is, given that I know Google Music can see and upload from iTunes on my PC, can it see the songs that are not local on my PC but are still showing up as they are in match (in the cloud)?
    No, Google Music can not match or upload cloud streams. Only files that are physically on your computer.

  • To sleep, or turn-off, or leave on, that is the question

    A couple years ago I called a local Mac dealer and asked the worth of my G4 iMac for a trade-in. He asked whether I usually turned the G4 off, or put it to sleep, or left it on all the time. I said, I usually left it on (with display turned off), or put it to sleep at night. He said the value was less in that case because the heat stresses in high-powered ICs were more detrimental to the life of the machine than on-off stresses. He said I should always turn the machine off at night.
    I'm a retired computer engineer, and the philosophy we had at the time I was working was that the thermal stresses on ICs and solder joints induced by repeated on-off cycles was more harmful than the steady-state stresses of leaving a computer on 24/7.
    So, that's my question. What is best for my new iMac for maximum reliability. (Forget about energy consumption for the moment.}
    1. What's best for overall reliability - turn the unit off at night, put it to sleep at night, or leave it on (with the display in sleep) - or some variation of these.
    2. Is there some magic in the OS that is optimized by one mode over another?
    I'm expect there are no comprehensive studies on this subject, but perhaps there are some informed opinions.
    -Bob

    For a desktop Mac, I leave it ON all the time using only Display Sleep. I also have the setting for +sleeping hard drives when possible+ enabled, but that does not apply to the internal drive (when used as the startup disk); it keeps spinning. External drives do spin down when not accessed.
    I believe leaving it on all the time causes less long-term stress on the hardware, for a Mac that is used every day for at least half the day.
    I think the second best approach, and better approach for energy conservation, is to use Computer Sleep. However, it should be used so that when you start using the Mac at the start of the day, your Mac stays ON (with Display Sleep only) for the rest of the day. At the end of the day (when you will not be using it again until the next day), use Computer Sleep.
    Periodically, for leaving it on all the time or using sleep, restart the Mac; you can make it weekly if you want a routine, but my iMac is fine for about three weeks. After that, I often notice some oddities with general performance, so I do a restart. I don't think about too much, because there is usually some other reason to do a restart within a three week period.
    I think the worst approach, which a lot of people use, is have Energy Saver set to do Computer Sleep after a relatively short inactive period. Then, the Mac is repeatedly powering on and off (sleeping/waking) throughout the day, and that probably puts more stress on the hardware.
    For a laptop Mac, they are designed to run off battery power and use sleep to save power (and their hard drives are better suited for that mode). The issues and considerations are not the same.

  • To upgrade or not to upgrade....that is the question.

    So my original iPhone is just starting to end its lifespan. I have had it since the phone first came out (so for about 2.5 years). I am having problems with battery life, freezing, and the sleep button keeps getting stuck. I brought it to the genius bar today and they told me that they can replace the phone with a new one (still the original iPhone) for what amounts to about $90 after taxes and stuff.
    So here is the question. Do I spend the $90 for the same phone with no upgrades and the capability of keeping my current service plan (only $60/month) or do I upgrade to the newest iPhone for only an extra $100 but then have to pay an additional $15 or more per month for the same service? Is the newest phone really worth that extra money?

    That's a decision only you can make. Personally, it would be worth it to me to go from a 2G to a 3GS (assuming I was in a good 3G coverage area) but if you can limp along for another few months, Apple may come out with a new iPhone this summer, considering they have for the last 3 summers.

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