To Sony FX1 and FCP5 users. What is your HDV workflow?

After you edit captured HDV footage how do you export to a single file then re-import that file for "Print to Tape" without getting serious dropouts?

i edit captured hdv footage from 2 dif cams into one clip
export using current settings to a single file that i add motion graphics to in After Effect
import that file back into FCP5 and try to Print to Tape but i get alot of drop outs and pauses when going to tape.
wanted to know how you do it?

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SONY FX1 and the FCP

anyone using the sony FX1 and FCP5? im trying to get the best import settings. also, do i just export it as MPEG2 if im making a DVD for mass production?

hello ZJS,
i think i'll have to correct you here - iMovie doesn't do any encoding. Encoding is done by apps like QT or compressor (or iDVD, for that matter) and outputs a file with a different codec.
as i mentioned before, iMovie handles HDV differently than FCP because it uses the QT intermediate codec, so i think this is where your black bar comes from - anybody correct me please if i'm getting this wrong. i still recommend doing the following procedure:
1. capture from camera to FCP and edit
2. print to video from FCP to camera
3. capture from camera to iMovie
4. create DVD in iDVD and save as disc image
5. burn with toast
you said before that you filmed in HDV and that's what you wanted to get out of it, please note that by making a DVD you will get Mpeg2 video which isn't really the same thing anymore. I have read a couple of threads reporting that image quality is not really good on DVD's with HDV material made with iDVD, but can't really comment on it as i never tried
all right, keep us posted
viva la mela

Lumia 1020 Owners - What is your iPhoto Workflow

I really want to start using iPhoto fully to manage my photos. I have my images from my past two phones in iPhoto already and that's all fine. They were the Lumia 800, and then Lumia 520 as a cheap stop-gap when my 800 broke whilst waiting for my next phone..The Lumua 1020.
I now take all my photos on my Lumia 1020. This combination of the 1020 and iPhoto has a few stumbling points:
The Lumia 1020 doesn't geotag the 38MP images, only the 5MP
iPhoto import doesn't seem to work on it's own for me
Combination of the Windows Phone App and iPhoto allow successful import, but of both the high res and 5MP versions (Still with the same Geotag problem)
If you have a Lumia 1020, what is your workflow you follow from taking your photos, importing, tagging them etc?
I don't mind too much if I end up saving both versions of a file but would like to avoid it with as little hassle as possible, I don't really want to have to tag each image twice (Once for the 38MP and once again for the 5MP).
Some things i'd like to be able to do:
Ideally only keep the high res versions of the images, without having to manually exclude the 5MP versions every time I try an import (Yes I may miss out of some of my reframed photos, but I rarely re-frame except when quickly sharing a file - I can edit the originals once in iPhoto if I want to crop etc)
Auto tag the high res versions of the images with a keyword of say "HiRes", to make it easier to find them when printing
Somehow get the Geolocation to work on the 38MP images (I may end up writing some custom code myself to copy the tag over, something would possibly run on the phone, but I haven't looked into it yet)
I tried out the Nokia Image Importer for Mac. It works well, but it does import the 38MP and 5MP and then just drops them into the file system. Although that has some advantages, i',m looking to embrace iPhoto as my photo software, as I assume I can export to file system later anyway.

I don't use the Windows Phone app from Microsoft to import pictures as it doesn't get date and time right for movies. This is my workflow:
1. Import all pictures and movies with Nokia Photo Transfer. This software is more lightweight than the Microsoft app. And it gets all dates and times correct.
2. Drag all files into the app Houdahgeo and geotag everyting using reference photos. The highres pictures get geotags from the lower res pictures without any problems. If you have taken photos with a DSLR or any other camera you can geotag them this way also.
3. Import only the highres pictures to Iphoto.
4. Delete all pictures manually in Lumia 1020. This is a lot easier since Lumia Black. And finally I delete all photos from the temporary folder that I imported to with Nokia Photo Transfer.
This is way too complicated compared to say an Iphone. With my Iphone I acomplish all of the above with two clicks.
I am not sure but I do believe that the highres pictures where geotagged by the phone in earlier versions of Nokia Camera. I sure hope they will solve this issue. There is already too much work importing pictures.

Attention All Metric Halo and ChannelStrip Users - What's happening?

Hi Everybody ...
About 2 months ago I posted that ChannelStrip for GarageBand was an amazing addition to the capabilities of GarageBand ...
I had tried the demo and was very impressed ....
Well ... just last week I went online and bought ChannelStrip for GarageBand...
but since then something very weird with Metric Halo is going on ..
I paid my $89 for ChannelStrip ... and I haven't heard a word from them since.
No email confirmation .... nothing ...
I sent 2 emails to them asking where my purchase was over their web support page ... no response ...
Try calling their support line ...http://www.mhlabs.com/metric_halo/support/.. all you get is a bunch of extensions and weird operator voice mail ... I left various voice mails ... and again ... no response ...
I'm starting to think that this company has gone under ... but they are still receiving money over the internet for nonexistent services ...
Has anyone heard anything about Metric Halo ????

I just got an email a couple of days ago and last week received email support within a day. I also use ChannelStrip.
I also called the same support number and got through on the first ring two weeks ago.
The phone line message is normal, as long as I've been a customer.
But I would say your experience of support isn't normal. They have always been known for their quality support.
In fact when I was looking for my ULN-2, they went out of their way to get one to me quickly.
Perhaps post here in the hardware section:
http://www.bigbluelounge.com/forums/index.php
There are a lot users there who may have a better number or better info. I'm sorry but I've misplaced the direct number I had.
I've dealt with Jason Desmond and Jon Stern at MH support. And like I said, they have always been great to deal with and seem to go out of their way to assist. Not to mention how great their products are.
Perhaps the holidays this week and last have had an impact....

@Skype users: What's your (working) config?

Sorry for this extra-thread, but I'm not able to skype with friends because they never hear me.
Here is my config: ALSA with /etc/asound.conf + /etc/libao.conf
Listening to mpd, watching a movie in mplayer + a flash-clip in opera works wonderfully (thanks to "aoss opera").
There are 3 methods to start skype (from cmdline):
1. plain old "skype"
2. "aoss skype"
3. skype_dsp_hijacker
Neither of them changes the result that i hear the ringing if I call a friend, but they can't hear me.
The permissions on my /dev/dsp
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 9 11. Mai 13:55 /dev/dsp -> sound/dsp
crw-rw---- 1 root audio 14, 3 11. Mai 13:55 /dev/sound/dsp
Of course, my user IS in the audio-group.
what do I do wrong?

I have them in my custom kernel
CONFIG_SND=y
CONFIG_SND_TIMER=y
CONFIG_SND_PCM=y
CONFIG_SND_RAWMIDI=y
CONFIG_SND_SEQUENCER=y
CONFIG_SND_OSSEMUL=y
CONFIG_SND_MIXER_OSS=y
CONFIG_SND_PCM_OSS=y
CONFIG_SND_SEQUENCER_OSS=y
CONFIG_SND_SUPPORT_OLD_API=y
# Generic devices
CONFIG_SND_MPU401_UART=m
CONFIG_SND_AC97_CODEC=m
CONFIG_SND_AC97_BUS=m
# PCI devices
CONFIG_SND_ENS1370=y
CONFIG_SND_VIA82XX=m
OSS-Emulation (with alsa) seems to work since (as already said ) i CAN listen to mpd and watch flash-movies in opera (when i started opera with "aoss opera").
I've played with oss2jack before I got dmix working, but had no success with it. I may try it again...

Yoga 13 users - what is your graphics driver version after the Windows 8.1 upgrade?

I just noticed something interesting - it looks like the Windows 8.1 installation installed a very new version of the graphics driver. Mine is showing as version 10.18.10.3316, dated 10/1/2013 (Oct 1).
Anyone else seeing this?
I should mention that I had previously updated the graphics driver about a month ago using Intel's generic HD 4000 driver. To do that, I just went to the Intel site and ran their driver update tool from the browser - it scans your machine for Intel hardware and displays available updates. This driver tool recognized my HD 4000 and updated the driver. But the Windows 8.1 installation updated to an even newer version.
I'm wondering if my previous update was a factor in why I have this updated graphics driver, or is everyone seeing this?

I guess you're asking 8.1 users, but i must say that intel upgrade seemed to help my 8.0... thanks for the heads up.

Windows 10 My stumbles and experience. What's your impression so far?

I just got a new computer a few weeks ago. So I thought why not play with Win 10 on my old computer. I went out got the ISO burnt it to a disc and fired it up. I was going about it the normal way of booting to the disc then going through the set up. I kept on getting hung up on the Windows key page. I tried the key on my sticker that didn’t work. I then used a script found here: http://www.howtogeek.com/206329/how-to-find-your-lost-windows-or-office-product-keys/ to find the product key. I remembered my computer was originally imaged from my generic image for these machines. That key didn’t work either. I thought maybe it’s because my computer is still part of the domain so I un-joined our domain and tried again. No luck. The best part is that every time I got an error message to reboot and try booting to the disk again. Well I finally...

Thank you spiceworks, you help us to fight for users !Sysadmin Day (UK) went ahead just as i planned . Lots of new faces and old ones in a packed Screening room watching Tron fighting for users. Special thanks toChris M (Spiceworks)andGary H (Spiceworks)for organizing this event with chocolates, popcorn, T shirt and Beer.Adding some pictures:

T500 users, what's your battery life?

Here's my specs:
T500 2.4ghz w/ 4gb ram, purchased october 09
Battery: 9-cell
Graphics: "energy saving" mode
Life: only 2.5 hours battery life, three if I'm lucky.
Usage: just have about 10 tabs open on chrome, no flash or anything
What are you guys getting? Other reviews claimed people getting about six hours. I did the battery gauge reset earlier today, it calculated a max of a little less than three hours as well.
My friend's t400 2.2ghz (with 9-cell) seemed to last for six hours easily, possibly more than that.

I ended up stumbling upon this thread ( http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Windows-7-Discussion/Battery-Life-Decrease-In-Windows-7/td-p/168772/page... )and have the same symptoms of the fan constantly running among other things.
I'm updating power manager to see if it'll fix things, otherwise I'm getting tempted to cave and buy something else.

Nvidia driver users: what does your thermal monitor read?

In nvidia-settings I get a reading of 66 degrees C. This seems high to me. I'm wondering if it's accurate or overestimated. I'm interested to hear your
- temperature according to nvidia-settings
-driver version
-and whether you think it's reporting higher than it should based on knowledge of your hardware

I get this:
whargoul:~$ nvclock -i
-- General info --
Card: nVidia Geforce 6600
Architecture: NV43 A2
PCI id: 0xf2
GPU clock: 299.250 MHz
Bustype: AGP (BR02)
-- Pipeline info --
Pixel units: 8 (11b)
Vertex units: 3 (111b)
HW masked units: None
SW masked units: None
-- Memory info --
Amount: 256 MB
Type: 128 bit DDR
Clock: 501.187 MHz
-- Sensor info --
Sensor: Fintek F75375S
Board temperature: 34C
GPU temperature: 28C
Fanspeed: 3267 RPM
PWM duty cycle: 9.8%
-- VideoBios information --
Version: 05.43.02.39.00
Signon message: VGA BIOS Version 5.43.02.39.AS15
Performance level 0: 300MHz / 500MHz

What is your email workflow?

Email is by far my biggest disappointment with the iPad. The way it works is functionally useless for me. It seems that iOS email is very rigidly designed to work in one specific way. That is, you are expected to have a single inbox where every email gets delivered to and once you review each email you either delete it or move it elsewhere. Is that how most of you use email?
I have an IMAP server for my email. In the past I had server side software (maildrop) that would presort my email into various folders as it arrived. When I opened email on my Mac it would check each folder for unread messages and put the little number total next each folder name. I also used a smart folder that showed me a consolidated list of all the unread messages for easy access.
Enter the iPad. This process obviously doesn't work well on the iPad because it only checks for new messages in a folder when that folder is opened. And even then the new messages need to be within the 200 message download limit before mail would find and tag it. With the iPad I have to manually open each folder to see if there are any new messages.
Then there's the issue that you can't collapse the folder hierarchy so you have to scroll through every single folder and sub-folder looking for the folder you want.
So, to fix the issue of scattered unread messages I decided to switch from server-side sorting to client-side sorting and I duplicated all my maildrop rules as Apple Mail rules. Now when I open Mail on my Mac the messages are filed away just as they were before, only it's done right at that moment. This way I still have the problem on the iPad of finding unread messages that have already been received and sorted, but new messages that I receive while using the iPad will be easily found in the inbox.
This does work in that mail received by the iPad go into the inbox. However, when I jump back over to my Mac all the new messages don't get sorted because the rules only apply to incoming messages and the messages that came in while using mail on the iPad are already in a "received" state. So now I'm left with unsorted messages in the inbox. I actually knew that was going to happen but I had to try anyway.
In the end, email on the iPad is completely useless to me which is a major disappointment. Mobile email would seem to be one of the major selling points. Since the email client has been around on the iPhone for several years now I have no reason to believe it will ever be improved. There aren't any third party email clients in the App Store either, and I'm not sure Apple would accept one if there was.
How do you use email on the iPad/iPhone/Touch?

Excellent question, I realized that straight from the beginning and what a pity it was it wasnt much user oriented. I posted several questions about that issue but never got any feedback for that.
What I kept wondering was, how people were using their Ipad within their enterprise with typical email beginnings such as:
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
etc...
As to the second poster, I dont know how many email accounts you have and whether they are biz related or private. But considering mine I get over 100 email on average, even if they are collected in one account only going and sorting them out will take ages, as most will have attachments.
So far I couldnt utilize my iPad as much as I wanted and needed to, the usebility is too limited. Specifically, for emails, and the WIFI wouldnt work well with iPad, while it works perferctly with Mac in such almost all locations. As for now for the iPad1, that I have. I am not sure if iPad3 will be any better, and whether I can use it overseas in differing locations!
Curious, what advantages other compatible systems will offer, that are more user oriented and functional in their work and in the play time:)

What's your photography workflow?

Hi all
I've recently signed up for the photography creative cloud package and I'm still trying to figure out the most effective workflow.
I take photos using my DSLR and I'm experimenting with importing photos from the SD card directly into my iPad, using Apple's camera kit, but it's really slow and needs a lot of space on the iPad, which i don't always have. Alternatively, I could import them into Lightroom on my MacBook and curate them on the iPad. I can't really decide what works best, but I'm going on holiday in a few weeks and am looking for some kind of 'lightweight' solution.
Finally, I'm wanting a permanent solution that will sync all of my photos to a cloud service, for archival purposes more than public viewing. I was thinking about Flickr for that, with its free 1TB.
Any comments / recommendations? I'd be keen to hear what other people do, end to end.
Cheers

Hi all
I've recently signed up for the photography creative cloud package and I'm still trying to figure out the most effective workflow.
I take photos using my DSLR and I'm experimenting with importing photos from the SD card directly into my iPad, using Apple's camera kit, but it's really slow and needs a lot of space on the iPad, which i don't always have. Alternatively, I could import them into Lightroom on my MacBook and curate them on the iPad. I can't really decide what works best, but I'm going on holiday in a few weeks and am looking for some kind of 'lightweight' solution.
Finally, I'm wanting a permanent solution that will sync all of my photos to a cloud service, for archival purposes more than public viewing. I was thinking about Flickr for that, with its free 1TB.
Any comments / recommendations? I'd be keen to hear what other people do, end to end.
Cheers

What is difference between user group and reference user group?

hi
guys,
what is difference between user group and reference user group?
your regards
p.suresh

Hi ,
Chk the link below for your clarifiacation.
http://help.sap.com/erp2005_ehp_03/helpdata/EN/5c/c1c81c445f11d189f00000e81ddfac/frameset.htm
Hope it helps.
Regards,
Amit
Edited by: Amit Kotwani on Sep 2, 2008 2:15 PM

Why jpeg file exported from Aperture with 300 dpi's it opens with 72 dpi's on PS ( image size)? I've tried several combinations and all give different results. And I am confused on what is the best workflow for me.

Ok.
My workflow is
RAW > Aperture Library > export jpeg high resolution 300 dpi's > one file on PS > edit > Save us jpeg. The I realised that files from PS were being save in a smaller size from the ones exported form Aperture. That is when I went o see <image size> on PS and files were with 72.
Since ten I've trying different things
1. Aperture > export as PSD > open on PS > edit > Save us jpeg = small file (around 15 MB)
2. Aperture > export as jpeg high resolution 300 dpi's > open on PS > CHANGE dpi's to 300 on <image size> edit > Save us jpeg = big file (Huge, actually)
What am I doing wrong? Would someone give me guidance and tell me what is the best workflow, considering I edit photos to deliver to my clients and I shall give them 300 dpi's.
Thank you

This is a known Aperture issue: Problem with Aperture 3.6 preset exports. | Apple Support Communities
Benjamin

Who is getting good lightroom performance and what is your system setup?

First of all, I think that most people are innoculated to terrible performance in lightroom. Many people running lightroom for a living are using incredibly fast machines and still having performance issues. There is something wrong with this picture!
Here are my system specs
i7 950 running a 3.3 ghz, 12gb ram, 1gb nvidia gts 450 graphics, windows 7 64 botting off of a crucial m4 ssd. My catalog is on the ssd along with preview files. My raw files and raw cache are on a raid 0 drive.
The terrible performance that drives me nuts simple things like cropping photos. In a given day of editing I might crop and rotate 500 files. This should be a fluid piece of lightroom's interface. In adobe camera raw hosted in bridge or photoshop cropping and straigtening photos was fluid on my 10 year old computer (and is perfectly fine on my current machine), but in lightroom sometimes it's smooth, and sometimes their is a bunch of lag when initially trying to crop or rotate. Syncing the previus development settings to the current photo takes several seconds? These are basic things. I've read all the threads, and tried all the fixes, and I am convinced that whatever current lag and slowness I'm experiencing is due to a software incompatibility with a piece of my hardware OR perhaps I'm running as smoothly as lightroom 4 is ever going to run.
I would like to know if there is anyone else out there who is having legitimally smooth performace out of lightroom 4.0, and if so, what are your system specs.

Geoff
I've listed stats and issues above but specifics
Library
space / Z - wait 2 - 3 seconds - some days.... other times - like a rocket
everything else is perfectly acceptable - for version 4
Develop mode
Cropping
hit R and wait, 2 - 3 seconds
handles appear mouse click to grab / rotate / move - wait 2 - 4 seconds before there is any response - not often with the spinning thing
Zooming
space / Z - wait 2 - 3 seconds - some days.... other times - like a rocket
Lens correction
Manual rotate / vertical - usually acceptable, if you catch it right, you can increase / decrease quickly, otherwise its click - wait 2 - 4 seconds photo is adjusted....
horizontal - this is slow, significantly slower than the above for some reason.
HSL/Color / B&W
2 - 5 seconds - usually
Web
This is acceptable - I just have 1 image selected, so any refreshes affect that image, so there is none of that tedious web update
Slideshow
I've been using this with LRTimelapse, to export sequences of images to a preset, its just number crunching - go make a coffee or leave running to export 5 or 6 lots of 400+ images over night
Map
limited by internet speed, its fine the usual irritation of the reverse geo-coding not defaulting to put the data in is mindblowingly frustrating...
I don't use the print or book modules as a rule
Hope that helps Geoff
hamishNIVENPhotography

Regarding the internet breech as seen on the news. What advice is Apple giving to its computer, iPad, and phone users?

Regarding the internet breech as seen on the news. What advice is Apple giving to its computer, iPad, and phone users?

That does not affect any OS X client or iOS, and there is no action for you or Apple to take.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. To date, most of these attempts have been pathetic and are easily recognized, but that is likely to change in the future as criminals become more clever.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.

To Sony FX1 and FCP5 users. What is your HDV workflow?

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