Toshiba 32DT1U Problem

Good evening,
I've had the TV since April of 2011 and it's always been at least reasonable.  I've had a few problems trying to set up little things but all have worked out fine eventually.
This problem ties in with wanting to use an aftermarket speaker system as my PS3's sound through the HDMI/PC Audio In jack in the back.  I understood via the instruction manual that to do this, I had to select the HDMI 1's audio input to "Analog" in the Sound Menu.  When doing this, no sound comes out.  The speakers are ideal, a number of devices have worked fine through them so far and with the volume up, touching a finger to the jack yields the trademark buzzing one would expect from a powered speaker.  I've also tried it with headphones, and a different set of speakers.  Perhaps the HDMI/PC Audio In jack is dead and has been so since I purchased the TV?  Technical support over the phone was reasonable but informed me I would've had to pay a fee of $29.95 to essentially have her read me the manual I had just read myself.
If a feature of my TV is dead before I've had the chance to use it -and I've tried every other aspect and way to wire the speakers involving this input, and all have failed- then I'm going to be incredibly dissatisfied and put off from choosing any Toshiba products in the future.
I'm hoping you'll be able to fix my issue. 
Thanks and Merry Christmas,
Mike

A little late given the intervening year, but it took me 6 months to solve the problem. Went through the same issues you did, with the same $200 (now $325) extortion.
The problem is with the wifi adapter Toshiba is using. I have a new (purchased in July 2014) Satellite C55. It, and most other recent (last couple of years) Toshiba's use the Qualcomm Atheros AR956 wifi adapter. From a reading of the internet, this
has a failure rate of about 50%, showing all the symptoms you describe: no connection, spotty connection, slow connection, etc. One expensive way to resolve the problem would be to replace the card, but there are compatibility issues related to this that I
as a non-Geek find overwhelming.
The solution for me was to buy a $10, external, USB Wifi Adapter from Realtek. Installed fairly easily with a mini cd. The Realtek bypasses the internal adapter, which is now set to "off" The Realtek shows as a third wifi connection.
True, you lose one USB port, but the problem is completely resolved. Wifi is back up to speed for me, no drops, no variances, no more cursing at my desk.
There are other external adapters which may work as well, but for 10 bucks, the Realtek was worth the chance. I strongly recommend this as a solution.
Hey, Toshiba, given the incredibly bad failure rate of the Atheros, and the multitude of complaints on your own website, why are you still using it?
Amysdad

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    Attachments:
    P6150016.JPG ‏518 KB
    P6150018.JPG ‏6319 KB

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    ========================================================
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