Trouble replacing the power supply for a 20" imac g5

I have purchased a new power supply and going through the replacement instructions but I cannot get the cable to disconnect. In the instructions it says
4. Disconnect the power supply cable by pressing the connector release tab and using a
wide, flat blade screwdriver to pry apart the connector.
5. With your fingers, pry the cable off the connector.
But the parts simply will not come apart and the plastic is just getting all mangled and making it more difficult. Is there some sort of trick to this?

Don't keep forcing anything or you'll end up having to replace those cables/connectors.
This is what I might try, however, I have to say I have never had to do this and maybe someone who has will have a better idea: You might try dribbling an extremely tiny amount of silicone spray downwards into the connector. Don't allow it to get on the outside of the connector where you need to grip it. And don't spray the silicone directly; first accumulate a little in a small container (one of those small cough syrup measuring cups would do), then try to get some on something that will hold only one or two drops and feed it in from there. I don't think it will reduce the conductivity of the contacts, but try to keep it only on the plastic, if possible. Shake the can of silicone spray well before using.
You might also try using a small piece of a non-slide rubber mesh pad, the kind used under rugs, to help grip the connector better. And jiggle it a little from side to side while pulling it out.

Similar Messages

  • I just replaced the power supply in my Intel imac and now the screen is really really dark and I see the missing folder icon, what do I do?

    The power supply in my Intel iMac went out (and smelled pretty burned) so I replced it and now when I start it up the display is so dark I can hardly see it and it shows the missing folder icon. Is it the inverter? Or if shine a flashlight on it and re-install the OS will changing the display settings maybe fix it?

    Thanks for ur quick reply to my problem. I tried all of that with no results... I did notice tho that the lights next to and above my caps lock key and my num lk key are now flashing. They flash in unison three times then there is a two second pause then they flash three more times and this repeats. They may have been doing this before I tried this solution but I did not take notice until now... I was also wondering how I am supposed to know, after pressing f10 to enter bios, how I can tell if my new drive is being detected when my monitor will not function? Was pressing f10 supposed to possibly make the monitor turn on? In a last ditch effort to try and further identify the problem, I re installed my old drive. Before replacing it my computer would begin to boot then display a hard error that would not allow me to continue booting and run Windows. My display would still work but I could not run Windows. After re installing the drive the monitor will not turn on. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad monitor. Is there a way of testing this with out buying one? Where does the monitor connect to the mother board? I wonder if maybe its been jarred loose, although I highly doubt it, it may still be worth looking at. Thanks again for your advice.
    Casey

  • My 27" Imac (A1312/EMC2390) keeps shutting down unexpectedly with no warning or "screen of death". I replaced the power supply, reset the SMC, and zapped the PRAM, but the problem continues. Can anyone help me?

    My 27" Imac (A1312/EMC2390) keeps shutting down unexpectedly with no warning or "screen of death". So far I reset the SMC, and zapped the PRAM. I even replaced the power supply but the problem continues. My error and system logs seem unhelpful too. Can anyone help me out?

    You can get a shutdown like that if the computer gets too hot. Make sure the air intakes on the bottom and the exhaust vent on the top are clean and are not blocked by something in your workspace like papers or the back of the computer being too close to part of the furniture. You need a good six inches (15cm) of clearance between the exhaust slot and other objects or surfaces.
    Anti-virus/internet security software, especially the "pay for" kinds, can increase operating temps. So can third-party backup software furnished with many "name-brand" external hard drives.
    Fan motors and/or temperature sensors can fail. If you have the original grey disks that shipped with your iMac, find the on that has Apple Hardware Test (AHT) and run it. If you have a failed heat sensor or fan motor, it will detect it with an error code containing "SNS" if it's a bad sensor or "MOT" if its a bad fan motor.
    AHT instructions here:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1509
    Also see if your iMac 27 falls under theis Apple Repair Extension Program:
    iMac 1TB Seagate Hard Drive Replacement Program

  • My Mac Pro will not power on. I've replaced the power supply, still will not power on. Is there anyone with a solution?

    My Mac Pro will not power on. I've replaced the power supply, still will not power on.
    Is there anyone with a solution?

    Try a pram reset:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379

  • Is the power supply for iPhone 3G only 120v?

    Is the power  supply for iPhone 3G only 120V

    This is all true.
    The iphone 3G can only be updated to 4.2.1.  It will not support any version higher than that.

  • I have a 1st Gen Time Capsule 1tb. It turns on, boots up and turns green for 5-10 mins, but then turns solid orange and then blinks orange.  I have removed the hard drive and replaced the power supply . . . still the same problem.  Suggestions?

    I purchased a used 1st Gen Time Capsule with a 1 tb hard drive.
    When I plugged it in and did the initial setup, it worked fine, but gave me a hard drive error.  A few minutes later the green light turned solid orange, then blinking orange, then the status light went off.  The lights in back stayed on. 
    I removed the hard drive and rebooted, it turned green for 5-10 minutes then reverted back to a solid orange, blinking orange, then went off.
    Next I purchased a remanufactured internal power supply, and installed it (without the hard drive in).  It turned green almost immediately.  After about 15-20 minutes, I decided to try to install the hard drive again, booted it up, and tried to erase the hard drive with was working properly according to the software.  It stopped erasing the disc after about 20 minutes and turned solid orange again, then blinking, then no status light  (but back lights were still lit).
    I'm a bit flabbergasted at this point, any suggestions on what to do next?  I think i've pretty much replaced everything except the logic board, but can't seem to find any information on the symptoms of a logic board malfunction. 
    Thanks!!!!!!!

    A Gen3 is identical board to a Gen4 although they have some differences in firmware and wireless card was updated on every model.. but a Gen3 is substantially faster than Gen1, Gen2 which also have identical boards.
    You can with careful shopping get a Gen3 pretty cheap.
    Most use a delta power supply which I think is a lot better than the flextronics used in most Gen1/2
    You can sell back the parts to ebay.. people still would buy the power supply etc. Even just the case can be useful to a repairer.
    But if the board is gone.. it is hard to repair.. not impossible.. but hard.
    Gen 3 and Gen 4 are not without faults.
    See this page.
    https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair/new-issue-with-a1355-gen-3-tc
    I have fixed it a different way.. by using the small converters you can buy in bulk from ebay for $1 each.. KIS3R33 .. they produce 3.3V at 2A peaking at 3A.. amazing.. I keep using them to replace onboard power converters by removing the inductor and simply power directly.. the end result has worked great. You can simply change the resistors around and get any output from 1v to 20v depending on input.
    Is it worth doing it .. no of course not.. it will waste many more hours than $50 is worth.. but it is kind of fun that you can actually make things work again.
    Here is a pic of the Gen 3 totally powered by me. All onboard power removed.
    This was to track down the fault in the Gen3.. but I am kind of pleased that it ended up neat enough and reliable enough to work for more than a year.. the Gen3 still serves as a way to get Netflix via network for a friend running 24/7.
    The units supply (from left to right)
    1v, 1.1v, 3.3v, 5v, 1.8v
    It is feed by 12v supply which is also directly connected to the hard disk.
    So it is possible to fix.. !! Only got to be a bit crazy.

  • I need help to replace my power supply for the hp pavilion elite m9510f

    This computer has given me many problems since I bought it in '09. From graphic card fan issues, a hard drive crash, and now the power supply has failed.
    I did the blow dryer trick but it still ends up breaking a week later. I want to know what new power supply should I buy. One that will be able to fit in the hp pavilion elite m9510f and is an upgrade to the 350w that it has. Maybe somthing under 60-70 dollars if possible. Thanks for any help.

    It appears to be a normal case and motherboard.  A normal ATX supply should work: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=50001333&IsNodeId=1&Description=Computer...
    Just an example of what is availble, but most any should work as long the physical dimensions match the one installed now.
    {---------- Please click the "Thumbs Up" to say thanks for helping.
    Please click "Accept As Solution" if my help has solved your problem. ----------}
    This is a user supported forum. I am a volunteer and I do not work for HP.

  • How can I replace the power supply IN the time capsule

    I have a TimeCapsule that has a bad powersupply. I have opened the timecapsule to confirm this. Has anyone done this before? If so, where did the power supply come from? Cost? I took this to the Apple Igneous bar and they said there is nothing that can be done about it.They said it couldn't even be opened, but simply peeling the rubber bottom off and unscrewing a number of tiny screws and that's it. The 1 TB drive is LOOSE in there. That was a bit of a surprise. I had thought that the issue was the drive itself was bad. I had hoped that if I removed that the AP part would at least work, but after opening it up and firing it up I could hear that the power supply was buzzing thus the conclusion it was the issue.
    I am going to put the SATA drive in a reader to see that it is indeed ok. If that checks out, then I know for certain it is the power supply, but I don't know what to use as a sub since the unit needs both 12V and 5V. I'd just as soon find a good supply and use that. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    John A Kostelac

    What version is your TC.. A1xxx from the rubber foot?
    Power supplies are not available from apple. They do not consider it repairable. It is a sealed consumable.
    Power supplies are available from ebay.. simply type time capsule power supply into search.
    This is absolutely standard issue that has been ongoing for ages and ages.
    See https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair
    For a multitude of ways to fix it.
    The 1 TB drive is LOOSE in there.
    No, it is not loose, it has rubber mounts with pins in the bottom base plate. You cannot see the mount points with the base off. This is standard hdd mount for low noise and vibration.
    I had thought that the issue was the drive itself was bad.
    Drives seldom are the problem. The Gen2 WD black has been less than great though.. and later spinpoint in Gen3 not so good.
    Apple Igneous bar  

  • Replacing the power supply

    Hi,
    My old PowerMac G4 (Gbit Ethernet) does not power up anymore. When I press the power button nothing happens at all. I suspect a recent power outage might be to blame - when the power returned the power supply to my router was dead and two fuses popped in the fusebox during the following weeks.
    Luckily I bought a new Mac Mini 6 months ago and most of the data has already been copied to the new harddrive.
    If it's possible I'd like to try and repair the G4 myself. I was hoping I could use a power supply I had salvaged from an old PC. The dimensions are the same but it seems some of the connectors are a bit different. For example the power connector to the motherboard has 2x11 pins instead of 2x10 and the one for the fan looks different too.
    I've tested the voltage of the lithium battery and it's still working. Same goes for the PC power supply. The G4 is supposed to get 28 V of 'trickle' power through the two extra pins; here however I get nothing.
    Is it possible to buy/get hold of a new power supply that suits the G4 or is this another one of Apple's crafty non-standard solutions?
    So, what are your thoughts?

    Hi-
    You have a few options-
    1- A used PSU
    2- Using a wall wart to provide the 28v trickle, along with an ATX(PC) PSU, or,
    3- An aftermarket PSU already to go in, from Nextro.
    For modifying, and using an ATX PSU, check Out of Spec and Xlr8yourMac.

  • Why is the power supply for the Mini so big?e

    Can anyone explain why the power supply / adapter for the mac mini is so big compared to the power adapters for the macbook? The processor and hard drive for the mini is the same as those for the macbook, so why is the power brick so much bigger? Just curious.

    While I doubt anyone who knows for sure will be prepared to pop up and answer, I suspect the reason is two-fold: firstly that the supply is engineered for constant use, 24/7, where laptop supplies are not, and thus it is larger because the components are more rugged and over-specced, and secondly for lowest cost, since it is cheaper to engineer a larger product of this kind than a smaller one, due to the premium cost of the smallest narrow-tolerance components.

  • Power Supply for 20" g5 iMac

    I have a first gen 20" G5 iMac, but it needs a power supply. Can I use a power supply from a first gen 17" model. I actually have one of those available. Thanks.

    Hey Bennett,
    Well power wise the two supplies are very similar.
    The 20":
    +3.3 V 4A
    +5.1 V 9.8A
    +12.0 V 6.5A
    +24.0 V or +20.0Vs 0.4A
    +5.1 Vsb 1.5 A
    The 17":
    +3.3 V 3.1A
    +5.1 V 9.6A
    +12.0 V 9.2A
    +24.0 Vsb 0.33A
    +5.1 Vsb 1.5 A
    However in terms of an exact replacement, physically the differences between the two is the placement of the AC inlet socket. In the 20" it's near the right edge. In the 17" it's ~ 1" to the Left. So the locking tab indent and the socket are in the wrong place.
    I think the pinouts are identical so you should be able to electrically test the 20" but you'll never get the back on without major mods.
    I'd refer to Jim's site:
    http://jimwarholic.com/2008/11/apple-imac-g5-power-supply-issues-and.php
    He's very responsive and knowledgeable about these power supplies and you could ask him about the swap.
    There are also ATX hacks to replace the 20" supply (there are many links and pics on Jim's site) and I've done that and have used the hacked ATX supplies to verify that I have a PSU problem. I've never gotten the sleep function to work properly tho'.
    Richard
    Message was edited by: spudnuty

  • Trouble with the power adapter for 17 inch mac

    I have heard that there were faulty power adapters made for the powermac. Does anyone know about this and does apple offer any kind of replacement?

    All programs for the PowerBook have long since ended. If your power adapter has failed, replace it.

  • Does anyone know where can I get a replacement UK power supply for the Photosmart B110 series?

    the HP website is mighty confusing and I'm having no joy!
    Thanks
    Jeff
    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    Hi there JeffDennis,
    Use your device's serial number here to see available parts. If none are available you may have to turn to resellers.
    Best of Luck!
    You can say thanks by clicking the Kudos Star in my post. If my post resolves your problem, please mark it as Accepted Solution so others can benefit too.

  • How to replace the power supply on the HP Pavilion slimline s5212y

    Does anyone know where I can find instructions for this.

    Hi,
    The second manual of the following link may help:
      http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/manualCategory?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&document=&product=4041245
    Good luck.
    BH
    **Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
    Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

  • Power supply for MSI 645 Ultra mother board

    I need to replace the power supply for a MSI 645 Ultra mother board. I've available a switching power supply Allied model DR-B500E, that doesn't have the -5V output (infact its 20 pin ATX power supply connector has no wire in pin 18).
    Can I use this power supply with the MSI 645 Ultra?
    Thanks in advance for any help.

    Hi, here I am. Sorry for delay but I had some problems with the PC (as NTLDR missing).
    However now is ok and I can confirm that it runs ok also with power supply without -5V output.
    Thanks a lot for the support and best wishes for Christmas and new year.

Maybe you are looking for