Trouble shooting: an order lost
morning,
someone called me he found an order lost in ECC. I check PIP,(SXMB_MONI, WE02, SMQR), then I didn't find any error for this order , but I found that file in archive folder.
I loged in ECP, (SXI_monitor,smqr), and I didn't find any error,too.
So, please tell me what I will do next?
Many thanks.
Hi,
Get the order number and get the idoc number for that idoc and the time when it send out. Then go to sxmb_moni and try to find at the same time for the same order. You need to search manually. If you have trex installed then payload based search is available, else you need to search manually untill unless you write some abap program for this.
Now get the idoc and see whether it processed or not. Then go to message monitoring and see the status of it. Now you said you have in archive folder, do you mean after picking the file it is in archive or while writing the file you are writing the file in archive folder also.
If it is during file pickup, you are archiving it doesnot mean the file processed successfully. First the message monitoring for errors and then start debugging from there.
Regards,
---Satish
Similar Messages
-
I had a bookmark folder & decided to add two more. When I went to my folders I could only find one new folder. When I clicked on it, it brought me to the second new folder. I couldn't get all three to appear under the bookmarks section. I retitled them because two of the three bookmarks had the wrong bookmarked items & then I lost the third, which had all the original bookmarks.
I've tried your trouble shooting section, I don't understand all of the information. I have been through the trouble shooting section several times trying different options. I've gotten myself so frustrated & confused :( I'm hoping for a little one on one help.
Thank you so much<u>First steps read the articles & do the following</u>
# manually backup your current bookmarks (as they are now)<br> see [[Restore bookmarks from backup or move them to another computer]]
#locate your profile, backup your bookmarks backups folder and the files it contains. See <br /> [[Profiles - Where Firefox stores your bookmarks, passwords and other user data#w_how-do-i-find-my-profile]]'''_how-do-i-find-my-profile'''
*also see http://kb.mozillazine.org/Profile_folder_-_Firefox#Folders
* put the new backups somewhere safe; outside any Firefox or profile paths
<u>Now look at what you have and keep the best ones</u> <br />
There are limits to what may be restored, depending on what you have done and deleted, but once you have taken the action above you have preserved whatever is there.
You can now try restoring any of the automated backups that Firefox has made for you (By default each of the last ten days). But take CARE any restore overwrites and destroys existing ones (unless it is from an HTML file then it is appended ). Always backup by exporting before you do a restore.
You may restore from any backup you have made by exporting the current state, you are not limited to just the automated backups.
Post back with how you get on and with any further questions. -
I lost my bookmarks, saved passwords etc while doing trouble shooting information and made reset and it asks import form any browsers i clicked cancel.please help me how to recover my old bookmarks and saved passwords?
Hi,
You can try to start the [https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/profile-manager-create-and-remove-firefox-profiles?redirectlocale=en-US&redirectslug=Managing-profiles#w_starting-the-profile-manager Firefox Profile Manager] and choose the '''*.default''' profile. Hopefully the bookmarks, history and passwords will be back. You can also check in the other profiles by exiting the currently started Firefox and starting another, or you can also try to start all the profiles one by one by using '''firefox.exe -p -no-remote'''.
As a precaution you may want to take a backup of all the profiles: Type '''%appdata%''' in the Run box (Windows key + '''R'''), open '''Mozilla\Firefox''' and copy the '''Profiles''' folder.
[https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/Backing%20up%20your%20information?s=backup&r=1&e=sph&as=s Backing up information]
[https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/Recovering%20important%20data%20from%20an%20old%20profile?s=profile&r=1&e=sph&as=s Recovering Information] -
Ever since I uploaded i0s7 I haven't been able to receive I messages or face time. I have took it to the apple store and they couldn't figure it out. I have also followed the trouble shooting from I tunes and still can't get it working
Hi,
Strikes -
Go into compositionReady and have 3 variables you will be able to set them like this
strike1 = 0;
strike2 = 0;
strike3 = 0;
So on the wrong item click have
if(strike1 == 0) {
PLAY STRIKE1 ANIMATION
strike1 = 1;
else if(strike2 == 0) {
PLAY STRIKE2 ANIMATION
strike2 = 1;
else if(strike3 == 0) {
PLAY STRIKE2 ANIMATION
strike3 = 1;
So this will make it so when the wrong item is clicked each strike will be played in order.
Random Scrolling -
You should look into the Math.Random function to make things random in edge.
This is an example of the Random function. It will generate a random number up to 100.
var random = Math.floor (Math.random () * 100);
Lose Screen Score -
So we can create another variable in compositionReady for the lose score.
score = 0;
Now when the user gains a point to add to the score you could do this code on the click
score++;
which would add 1 to the score, However you can add however much you like to the score doing "score + 2" and so on.
To edit a text with the score at the end which I'm assuming you will want to do you will use .html
so $("Text").html("You score is " + score);
I hope this helps! -
Trouble shooting guide! Read this first!!!! rev 13-1-2004
(Revision 13-1-2004)
Hi there,
Follow everything on the list, even if it doesn't look like it would solve your problem, most problems are created somewhere else!
To give some examples:
CPU won't run FSB133....mostly powersupply or CPU-cooler.
Videocard won't load drivers....mostly powersupply.
Sound won't work.....mostly metal-standoff's.
Windows won't install, file read error.....mostly CPU-cooler, Bad-ram or powersupply.
That is why you need to go over the entire list and check all!
Before you start doing anything, remove the power and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. If you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
There are several reasons why this happens.....to name the most commen:
CPU speeds
You have a Duron, that CPU is 100FSB!
You have a Athlon(XP) and it's showing the wrong speed, set the CPU-FSB to 133....
Or 166 when it's a FSB333 CPU....or 200 when it's a FSB400 CPU....
Some boards have a jumper to set it, other do it in the BIOS.
Check your manual for this.
Speeds must be:
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Use this link to see if your motherboard actually supports your CPU.
The TBred CPU's (0.13) start from XP-1700 and up, but not all boards support this CPU and they either show on the D-LED all red or don't start at all!!
The K7T266pro2 is an exception, it can be made to support the TBred CPU's, on this link you find all the info on how to make it work.
Many reports have told us that FSB333 CPU's work on KT3-Ultra boards work just fine, but it's unsupported by MSI, we don't know why....
As for mulipliers with AMD CPU's, just set them Automatic, as they are hardcoded on the CPU themselves and will allway's be correctly, even if if you think the BIOS doesn't know it.
How to recognise the CPU:
If you look on the dice, there are letters after the speed.
The last letter will tell you the FSB of the CPU.
B=100MHz (=200DDR)
C=133MHz (=266DDR)
D=166MHz (=333DDR)
E=200MHz (=400DDR)
To recognise a CPU quickly, checkout this link.
Thanks Mellops.
The MHz setting must match your setting in the BIOS for FSB value, as it translates to the correct FSB setting for the CPU.
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
Detailed information on the code can be found in this AMD document. (Thanks Hans)
CPU Cooling
CPU cooler not made for your CPU, check if it can handle your CPU....
CPU cooler mounted wrong!, take it off and check it as it will fit 2 way's, but only 1 is the right one, examine very carefull!
The cooler has a lower part that needs to go over the bump (higher part) of the socket, if it's not over there it won't cool the entire dice and WILL give you trouble.
Also check if it's making contact with the entire dice of the CPU...
Make sure you regrease it again, the same grease/paste can't be used twice!
YOU MAY NEVER USE A THERMALPAD OR GREASE AGAIN! APPLY NEW EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE COOLER OFF!!
top 2 show how not to do it
Used too much silver-grease! It will shorten the bridges on the CPU, clean it and use white-paste.
(Silver-paste is not recommended in any case!)
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2200 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because the dice is smaller and generates far more heat per square cm then the "old" CPU's do.
How to check the cooler before taking it off.
There is a simple way to check the cooler without taking it off.
You do this by first checking your idle temp with PCAlert, it should be below 50-55C.
Then you download a client from www.distributed.net, let this client run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a big chance you mounted the CPU-cooler wrong.
When you can't run this check, try with FSB100, if the system does run the check then, it could be well that the cooler is mounted wrong or your powersupply doesn't have enough power.
***** YOU CAN'T CHECK THE CPU COOLER ON TEMPS OR FAN RUNNING, IT MUST BE TAKEN OFF THE CPU!!! *****
Cleaning the CPU and Cooler - thanks to Dragon60 for his addition.
An additional comments about this is what you clean the CPU with in this situation. The best thing to use is isopropyl alcohol. If this is not available then metholated spirits would do.
Make sure you allow the CPU to dry properly before you put it back in. This also means DO NOT try and clean it whilst it is still in the socket as some of the cleaning fluid, grease and dirt may get underneath and short some pins.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may disolve some parts.
Thanks Dragon60.
If you don't understand what we are talking about on this cooler matter, then read this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
Powersupplies
Powersupply too little, most commen cheap 300W CPU's can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your powersupply has about 185W combined on the 3.3+5V and that the 3.3V has 20A or above.
That should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the 12V has become very important too, expecialy with TBred CPU's.
Make sure yours can give 18A or more on the 12V line too.
I have found that a lot of cheap 350W will fail with modern boards and TBred CPU's.
Allway's make sure you have a decend PSU, it never fails to spent a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure....
More info about powersupplies: Click here.
And the second you must read: Click here.
Powersupplies with these type of numbers on them or higher should be fine:
3.3V - 28A or better
5V - 30A or better
12V - 18A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!!
Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!!
Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
Metalclips
Stand-off's left between the board and the case, take the board out and check for too many of those metal-clips, they can shorten circuits and cause al sorts of problems (most of the time audio problems)
RAM
Ram problems, don't try to run with PC100 (SDram boards) when you have a 133FSB CPU, get PC133 ram of decend quality.
In any case, don't use cheap quality ram (Crucial seems decend, but give's a lot of problems, I consider these cheap quality too :P ), replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it....
DDR ram speeds:
Duron upto 1300/Athlon-B =100FSB=PC-1600=DDR200
Duron from 1400 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon-C/XP upto 2600 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above =166FSB=PC-2700=DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above =200FSB=PC-3200=DDR400
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock, they have no speed gain if run at the correct speed. You may use faster ram on a slower system, the speeds given are what is needed minimum.
Perform RAM test tools, ie http://www.memtest.org if you suspect RAM is faulty, such as BSOD or data corruption. [added by Maesus]
Try your system allway's with 1 stick of ram, adding more sticks can give all the trouble too.
Some sticks just won't work in pair and a lot fail when you put 3 or more in the system.
When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the MSI tested ones, they are your best chance that they work without problems.
If still nothing, try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or rise the Ram voltage a little, be carefull doing this!
Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in there.
BIOS
BIOS settings not right, clear the CMos and start with the default settings, if it works, try setting ONLY the FSB to 133 if needed, nothing more.....
And go further from there......
Clearing CMos
When you clear the CMos, make sure that all power is cut from the system.
This is done by takeing the wall-plug out or use the switch on the powersupply to turn it off.
On most boards, as far as I know all MSI boards, you must set the JBat1 to position 2-3 (clear position) for about 10 seconds, then set it back to 1-2 (keep data position)
After this your CMos should be cleared and you can turn the system back on.
In some rare cases it's needed to take the battery out too for a minute or so.
It can happen that the system will prompt you to set the BIOS again, go into the BIOS and set everything you need, then save the settings.
Thanks fguevara.
Harddisks
Harddisk is giving problems, most of the time with WD drive's, they are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = if you have a slave drive attached
Jumper slave = when it's slave to another drive
Harddisk is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the blue connector to the board, and don't let the other end of the cable unused, make sure there is a device connected to it.
The middle connector can be left into the air without problems if not needed.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Click here for DFT
Other brand drives can have problems too, make sure they are ok, as harddisk failure can cause all sorts of problems.
Allway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape, if not, replace it and try another to verify.
For more information read this: Click here.
To know what harddisks your motherboard support, use this link.
To enable harddisk over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The KT4 raid boards only support 1 harddisk on IDE3, the rest must be SATA drive's!!
Harddisk/power led not functioning - thanks to Tweetyoost
If your HD led or power led not work try to switch(wrong + or - side) the connectors on the motherboard.
leds will work only when + or - is correct
Thanks Tweetyoost.
Floppy drive's
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the led stay's on all the time.
Make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS, as the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable, make sure the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side.
If the light stay's on, flip the connector at the floppy-drive arround.
Sometimes it happens that even after all this, they still don't work, try with another drive from another brand.
Not able to enter the BIOS or lockup
When you try to enter the BIOS it won't go in there or
lockup, but your system is running fine.
This symtom can happen when your CPU-Cooler is giving spikes on the coolerwire.
Try with another brand of cooler to test if it solves it.
Keyboard and optical mouse lights stay on after power off[/U]
Some motherboards have a jumper called JKBV1, this jumper is located (mostly) near the keyboard connector, put it in the other position.
If your board doesn't have the jumper, try to find the following BIOS settings and turn them off:
resume on KBC
resume on PS/2
resume by alarm
USB ports not working[/U]
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled.
USB2.0 ports are supported in Win2000+SP3 and XP+SP1, just let the OS reinstall the ports and they should work.
Thanks Stygge
Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case.
But if you still like to do so, please support the board, because if you don't you might bent the board a little and cause other components to make bad contact.
Allways support the board when you replace stuff, no matter what!
Also make sure your system can take the replacement, it could happen for example that your powersupply can't handle your changed videocard from GF2MX to GF4Ti4600.
Test all the parts in another system
Make sure that the new part is in good working order in the first place (in particular: videocard, CPU, memory): try it in another system, or have it demonstrated by the one you bought it from if possible.
Testing might also give you a clue on what is actually wrong in your own system.
Thanks HansH.
Checking the powersupply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
Disconnect the powersupply.
Orientate the 20pin Powerconnector with the clip up.
Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire.
Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
Now connect the power and the fan inside the powersupply should start spinning.
If it doesn't your powersupply maybe dead.
Thanks HansH.
KT4 users
Please read the Un-Official KT4 guide if you have CRC errors or strange crashes.
These can be BIOS problems.
In any case !!!Only flash if the system is stable!!!
Set default-settings and FSB100 to make it stable first!!!
Motherboards making a Siren-sound
If your board is making the sound of a firetruck, BEEP-BOOP-BEEP-BOOP...
Check the folowing:
1. CPU too hot
2. chassis intrusion was enabled in the BIOS
3. PSU is below min/max allowable value
Stutter in audio
Remove your antivirus software.
We have heard a few cases where the stuttering was created by badly behaving antivirus software.
Disable cpu halt command if it's in the BIOS (Thanks Pascal16)
Windows
Windows2000/XP won't run stable, try to disable APIC and install again....
Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
Windows2000/XP won't install USB2.0, install the latest servicepak (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP).
Let Windows rediscover the USB ports, they should work now.
If you have driver or other problems and don't know what to do anymore but Windows does function without crashing, read this: Click here.
Audio [added by Maesus, 20/2/2003]
Can't stream AC3 via SPDIF to external DD decoder? try this ac3filter [info provided by Manfred ]
Lan not working 100MBit
You could try this patch, seems to work on some boards.
The download-link is at the bottom of this post.
I think I have about covered all most commen problems....
Check those first before you ask us, as it's not fun to type the same over and over again.... :(
Another good link for trouble shooting is here: Link
If you have more issues that can solve problems, please write your thing below......
I will insert your comments in this guide, with credits, offcourse 8)
!!I will delete any attempt for discussion or problem report below this message.....!!
Please report back, in another thread, if your problem was solved and how you did it, this will help others a great deal.
It's only ment to help people as a guide to where the problem can be, start a new thread if this guide didn't solve your problem and you need more help!
This thread is only for the experts to guide you into a solution :]Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true. -
i wanted to do trouble shooting, i put computer in safe mode & now i can not get out of safe mode. I've closed FF & re-started computer 3 times, even shut down computer, still in safe mode. What do i need to do to get out of safe mode?
Hi,
Please see this article: [[Firefox is stuck in Safe Mode]]
I hope that helps. Post back if not.
--Edward
EDIT: Just noticed that you already rebooted. You say that you "put computer in safe mode". Is firefox in safe mode or your whole computer?
If '''Firefox''' is stuck in safe mode despite reboot
* Check that the shift keys on your keyboard are not stuck down.
* Uninstall firefox and install again (your settings will not be lost as they are stored in your profile folder).
Let me know if neither of those works. -
MacOS X 10.4: Basic trouble-shooting
Here is a check-list for some basic, unspecific trouble-shooting.
1. Restart the computer
2. Deactivate/Uninstall system haxies and third-party extensions (e.g. ASM, Norton AntiVirus, etc.)
3. Check/fix the filesystem as outlined in this article: Using Disk Utility and fsck for file system maintenance in Mac OS X and Using Disk Utility in Mac OS X 10.4.3 or later to verify or repair disks
4. Check for at least 5 GB of free space on the boot volume. Mac OS X needs at least that amount in order to run properly.
5. Repair permissions: Go to Applications > Utilities > Disk Utility, choose your HD in the sidebar and click "Repair Permissions"
6. If one specific application gives you a headache, trash it's preference-file (User/Library/Preferences or in case of system "programs"
in Library/Preferences).
7. Create a new user account, and see if the problem persists.
8. Clear system & user caches with either Tiger Cache Cleaner or Cocktail.
9. Unplug all USB- and Firewire devices except original Apple mouse and keyboard.
10. Startup in Safe-mode and see if the problem persists: Starting up in Safe Mode
11. Repair and replace the directory with DiskWarrior or TechTool Pro 4
12. Zap PRAM: How to Reset PRAM and NVRAM
13. Unplug 3rd Party PCI cards.
14. Reinstall the latest combo updater.
15. Check the hard drive for bad blocks (e.g. with Drive 10 or TechTool Pro 4).
16. Take out 3rd party RAM.
17. Run the Apple hardware diagnostic CD.
18. Reset PMU: Resetting Power Management Unit (PMU), Power Mac G4 (AGP Graphics/Gigabit Ethernet): Resetting the PMU on the Logic Board, Resetting PowerBook and iBook Power Management Unit (PMU)
19. Reinstall the system from scratch ( http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=6076144. Check for at least 5 GB of free space on the boot volume. Mac OS X needs at least that amount in order to run properly.
Mac OS X 10.4 will work properly with less free space; about 2 or 3GB is enough. I currently have 4.03GB free on my Mac OS X 10.4 system, which is on a 7.3GB partition.
6. If one specific application gives you a headache, trash it's preference-file (User/Library/Preferences or in case of system "programs" in Library/Preferences)
The first path should reference the folder in the Finder's sidebar or choosing Go to Folder from the Finder's Go menu and entering ~/Library/Preferences as the location. A home folder does not need to be in /Users/, and in any case, the file should be left on the desktop temporarily instead of being immediately deleted.
You may also want to mention display issues which are account-specific; these include colors looking washed out, the monitor's colors being inverted, and a black box appearing on random items. These can be turned off from the Universal Access pane of System Preferences.
(19916) -
My track pad has lost control of the arrow. It is hard to move or it acts on its own. Is there a way to trouble shoot this?
Try here > http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1449
-
I have changed my notes to sort by title on my mac but after 24 hours my iphone and ipad have not reset to match my mac. I have tried all the trouble shooting. Now what?
As far as I know, iCloud doesn't sync the sort order.
-
Hi,
what would be the best way to start system trouble shoot ...when unable to install patches, packages and other applications...of course differ from envi.. to envi...but still the normal ,general procedures.
thanks in advance
susesunFor patches the patch pages have a web based patch analyzer. This helped me when the downloaded application "patchmanager" got lost part way through downloading and applying patches, leaving me with a broken operating system. The online version gave me needed patch numbers I could download by "hand", using the individual patch numbers. 3 of those then the operating sytem was fixed well enough for patch manager to finish....
-
G5b varied problems hard to trouble shoot
I have a dual 1.8 GHz Power PC G5 made in 2003. I have always had various problems with it. About a year ago the power supply went, and the computer sat dead until last week when I had a new one put in (I live in Tokyo and this cost me ¥50,000 or about $500.00. Since then the fans rev up (I think it's fans and not the HD) which they have done since I bought this machine, and system log shows "Oct 1 01:20:41 cavalier-duanes-Computer kernel[0]: Fan failure!" over and over again (every second, and this is a new one), but the fans are working. In addition, twice (since I got it back) it has just suddenly shut down. Will not restart until I unplug it for about 10 seconds. One of the times it restarted in "unix mode" for some reason. These are the latest problems.
I use a lot of different macs and operating systems as I have a small business and use everything from old blueberry imacs running 10.2 to new macboo ks running 10.5 (and many machines in between). I know a some about trouble shooting macs,but I am stumped.
Over the years this G5 has froze many times, froze and showed a semi-transparent black screen in several languages telling me some major error has occured, froze and fans go wild, volume goes to silent and slider control won't respond and I've lost all data twice and had to completely reinstall OS. These are the things I can remember. There have been more. The problems are so varied I have no idea what to do. Any ideas on what may be the underlying cause.
By the way it has passed hardware tests in the past (haven't done one recently, but the problems are not new). I've zapped and zapped the pram, done fsck many a time, and run disk utility up the whazoo. Would be thankful for any help.Hi Duane,
A "[0]: Fan failure!" appears to be a power supply fan failure, only. Is the repair still under warranty?
A hard drive crash will cause data loss/corruption. This is due to damaged sectors on the disk, caused by a sudden loss of power, unconditioned power or just age. When this occurs, the drive is on its way out and it is best to replace the HD before a total failure.
Install a new disk along with the defective one, install the OS and immediately migrate all of your data, including User Accounts, using Migration Assistant. You should be up and running in no-time.
Regards -
how do I trouble shoot this?
emanwine wrote:
Got it to connect and it is my back up. ...
Good News.
If this is your only Backup would suggest getting a New EHD and creating another one... Preferably a Clone if you don't already have one.
http://www.bombich.com/
Can never have too many Backups... -
I uploded the new itunes software and now my ipod touch is not getting reconized in my itunes. I went through all the trouble shooting support from apple. But I do have a avast antivirus on my computer i wonder if that is what is holding it up
Could be since it (security software) is listed as #5 in the following:
iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch: Device not recognized in iTunes for Windows -
I can not dowload the new updated software for my Ipod touch 4G. When i do I get an error message that says Network connection has timed out. I have done the trouble shooting steps. Downloaded the latest version of Itunes, and checked network connection
Disabling the computer's antivirus and firewall during the download and update usually resolves the timeout error.
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I can't log into my iTunes account on my iPhone 5s. I logged out a few days ago to trouble shoot because I was trying to redeem some iTunes cards but when i pressed redeem nothing happened. I then tried to log back in immediately afterwards. I was unable to do so. After clicking "sign in" at the bottom of the apps main page, it brought up another menu where I clicked "Choose existing Apple ID". After pressing this the menu disappeared and nothing happened. I tried this multiple times and received the same result each time. I tried the other available option of creating a new AP ID to log in with and that one worked perfectly fine. I am clueless as to why the log in for me is either not able to load or just completely blocking me from getting back into my iTunes account on my phone. Not only can I not listen to the music I currently have, but I cannot log in to purchase the new music that I wanted to with my unused iTunes gift cards
I have the same problem too and tried alot of things like time zone , restarting or changing DNS of wifi connection to 8.8.8.8 still nothing happens .. !!
iPhone 5s, iOS 8.3
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