Trouble shooting changing speed
Not able to change speed in Final cut express. Telling me there was a problem during a trim operation. Anyone run across this? Thanks
This can happen when the speed change moves the content of the timeline and tracks, usually the audio tracks, collide. There are various ways around this. You can use the F key to match frame to the browser clip, apply the speed change to that, and edit it into the timeline. With the playhead at the start of the clip you can press Cmd-Opt-F to call up a new copy of the clip from the hard drive, apply the speed change there, and then end into the timeline. The last way some people use is to drag the clip to the end of the timeline, apply the speed change there, and then move back into the timeline however you like.
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AmishCake wrote:
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Kisight: How do I get my iSight working ? Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera. (Version 3)
Replacement for the second draft of this Thread (To be removed if Published as Tip)
kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?
Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera. (Version 3)
Hi, On many subjects Apple has Articles and Documents that can help.
In some case they are written by an Engineer or similar and can miss the mark for the average user.
In other cases they are crafted, detailed responses to an issue that has popped up many times in the Apple Discussions and take the best from many responses in those User-to-User Discussions, creating something that can not be surpassed.
This is the case of the Apple Article HT2090 on Trouble Shooting an iSight.
It lists steps and processes to go through for both Internal iSights and External ones.
However as with most things it does sometime pay to reword things differently so that people grasp the points in language they understand.
The info here is a reworking itself of two pages at ralphjohns.co.uk/EZ Jim pages namely EZ JIm's page 2 Where can I Find Help With My iSight ? and his page 4, How Can I Test My iSight is Completely Functional ? which were written several years ago and predate the Apple Article, being aimed at the External iSight. They have been updated since to address the Internal iSight as well but some of the comments are useful between the two types.
External First. For Internal iSights Start at 2b) (you will need to adjust some options/steps as the Internal is USB)
Steps
1) Pre Purchase
If buying an External iSight you should if you an get to see it in action.Apple no longer sells the External iSight so you will be buying it second hand.If you cannot get to see the device plugged in and working on Mac then check the smaller print of the seller and selling site as to nature of Returns and Faulty Goods.
2) Does it work ?
a) First of all Plug it in. It should come with a suitable mount (although there are variants on this) and a 6 pin to 6 pin Firewire cable.
Ideally it should have it's own Firewire port/socket on your computer. Connecting it "DaisyChained" to other devices can be a problem as they do not all use Firewire at the same Data speed.
It will then go through some checks as the OS powers it up and checks it's firmware.
Do not be concerned that the little green indicator light atop your iSight illuminates for a few seconds and then goes dark when you first connect your iSight or power on your Mac. Do not be concerned if you hear a soft whir as iSight attempt to focus either. Both these occurrences are normal. If your iSight passes the following tests, do not worry about this sound or the status of the green light.
There is no ON switch as such. It does have an iris mechanism that can be controlled by the User. The iris should be turned so you can see the Lens for the iSight to send pictures to an application.
b) Pick an Application to see the picture the iSight produces.iChat is one application you can use. Photobooth is another. iMovie (Version 4 or above for external iSight -- Version 6 or above for in-built iSight) and Comic Book (if bundled on your Mac) are yet more.
See this Users Tip for more applications Or this page for yet more.
Photo Booth is probably the simplest as it has no Preferences to choose a camera in the original version and is done from the Menu items in later versions (nor is there any setting in the OS) and Photo Booth will default to the External Camera if one is plugged in before the application is started. If you see your self or what the camera is pointing at, It Works !!
3) If it does Not Work
a) Check Cables/leads. Re-seat the cable at both ends. DO this carefully as although Firewire cables are keyed to fit the right way it has been known to force them the wrong way.
Try another 6 pin to 6 pin firewire cable.
b) Unplug the cable from any other FireWire device and give the iSight it's Own FireWire port/socket on the Mac (exclude issues with other FireWire devices). It is important that this be a port/socket on your computer and that you know that it works. Do not use a port in a FireWire hub or another FireWire device or a FireWire port in an Apple Display for testing. (Also see d below if you have an 800 FIreWIre Computer)
c) Check System Profiler (Apple Icon menu top Left > About this Mac. > More Info Button)Open the Reveal Triangles to see the list and go to Hardware > FireWire. (Use USB for Internal Cameras)
If it appears here try booting or Logging in as another user on the Mac (Create a Test account if you don't have one) and try item 2b) above again.
d) With FireWire 800 computers you may have to change your FireWire 400 to 800 Adaptor or Cable to get full Audio functionality with Lion Apps
If it is not in the System Profiler you are almost certainly going to need the Trouble Shooting Article from Apple at this point. This Article may also be of help (number HT1317 What to do if your computer won't recognise a FireWire or USB device).
If you have not resolved things at this stage it is going to be time for an Engineer with Apple credentials.There are no user serviceable parts inside any iSight.
Other Items
Audio.
The External Camera has two mics inside.The volume it records at or plays through for iChat is controlled in System Preferences > Sound > Input tab (select device) and this should be set to get the blue response bar to at least half way (preferably three quarters) when you talk.The same applies to any other Mic, even the Internal one on laptops and some other Macs.
Firmware.
The System Profiler as detailed above should tell you the Firmware the iSight has. The current version is 1.0.3 and was updated in Panther. (Essentially it is an Audio compatibility update but does seem to help in other situations)
If your computer is running Panther (10.2.x) then use this Updater
If running Tiger (10.4.x) or Leopard (10.5.x) then navigate manually to your Hard Drive/System/Library/Core Services/iSight Updater and run the updater found there.
If an iSight is Plugged in on the Computer when you do an OS update and the firmware needs updating on the iSight this app is supposed to be triggered but it seem it may need a hand at times.
Focusing on the External iSight
Essentially the External iSight is self or Autofocusing.
If in doubt then try better lighting and strong colours as opposes to light or pastels.
(All built-in iSights are fixed focus. Therefore, unless a built-in iSight lens cover is dirty or smudged, any built-in iSight whose image is blurry needs service by an Engineer with Apple credentials.)
EZ Jim has these more specific recommendations for piece of mind.
Make a cross whose lines are about one-half inch or more wide on a plain background to use as a focus target. (I have even used black electrical tape.)
Turn on plenty of light and hold the target very still at about two or three feet from the lens. Watch iSight focus. (You may need to use a tripod or brace yourself to hold the target still enough.)
Then quickly move the target and hold it very still at about one foot away from the lens. Watch iSight focus.
Finally, move in to about six inches from iSight, and check focus there, too. (Holding the target still is more important as you get closer to iSight.)
This Users Tip by Ian Bickerstaff can give you clues for any application really "Look and sound good in iChat"
Other Info and Links
iSight Support info at Apple Links to Users Guide, Manual and many other topics on the External iSight.
Apple's iSight Firewire Connectivity FAQs
Apple's iSight Service FAQs
If you feel you have not understood or think you have not grasped something here or in the links so far try the iSight Discussion Forum
1:13 PM Saturday; October 8, 2011
Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"
G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
MacBookPro 2Gb( 10.6.8)
Mac OS X (10.6.8),
"Limit the Logs to the Bits above Binary Images." No, SeriouslyReplacement for the second draft of this Thread (To be removed if Published as Tip)
kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?
Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera. (Version 3)
Hi, On many subjects Apple has Articles and Documents that can help.
In some case they are written by an Engineer or similar and can miss the mark for the average user.
In other cases they are crafted, detailed responses to an issue that has popped up many times in the Apple Discussions and take the best from many responses in those User-to-User Discussions, creating something that can not be surpassed.
This is the case of the Apple Article HT2090 on Trouble Shooting an iSight.
It lists steps and processes to go through for both Internal iSights and External ones.
However as with most things it does sometime pay to reword things differently so that people grasp the points in language they understand.
The info here is a reworking itself of two pages at ralphjohns.co.uk/EZ Jim pages namely EZ JIm's page 2 Where can I Find Help With My iSight ? and his page 4, How Can I Test My iSight is Completely Functional ? which were written several years ago and predate the Apple Article, being aimed at the External iSight. They have been updated since to address the Internal iSight as well but some of the comments are useful between the two types.
External First. For Internal iSights Start at 2b) (you will need to adjust some options/steps as the Internal is USB)
Steps
1) Pre Purchase
If buying an External iSight you should if you an get to see it in action.Apple no longer sells the External iSight so you will be buying it second hand.If you cannot get to see the device plugged in and working on Mac then check the smaller print of the seller and selling site as to nature of Returns and Faulty Goods.
2) Does it work ?
a) First of all Plug it in. It should come with a suitable mount (although there are variants on this) and a 6 pin to 6 pin Firewire cable.
Ideally it should have it's own Firewire port/socket on your computer. Connecting it "DaisyChained" to other devices can be a problem as they do not all use Firewire at the same Data speed.
It will then go through some checks as the OS powers it up and checks it's firmware.
Do not be concerned that the little green indicator light atop your iSight illuminates for a few seconds and then goes dark when you first connect your iSight or power on your Mac. Do not be concerned if you hear a soft whir as iSight attempt to focus either. Both these occurrences are normal. If your iSight passes the following tests, do not worry about this sound or the status of the green light.
There is no ON switch as such. It does have an iris mechanism that can be controlled by the User. The iris should be turned so you can see the Lens for the iSight to send pictures to an application.
b) Pick an Application to see the picture the iSight produces.iChat is one application you can use. Photobooth is another. iMovie (Version 4 or above for external iSight -- Version 6 or above for in-built iSight) and Comic Book (if bundled on your Mac) are yet more.
See this Users Tip for more applications Or this page for yet more.
Photo Booth is probably the simplest as it has no Preferences to choose a camera in the original version and is done from the Menu items in later versions (nor is there any setting in the OS) and Photo Booth will default to the External Camera if one is plugged in before the application is started. If you see your self or what the camera is pointing at, It Works !!
3) If it does Not Work
a) Check Cables/leads. Re-seat the cable at both ends. DO this carefully as although Firewire cables are keyed to fit the right way it has been known to force them the wrong way.
Try another 6 pin to 6 pin firewire cable.
b) Unplug the cable from any other FireWire device and give the iSight it's Own FireWire port/socket on the Mac (exclude issues with other FireWire devices). It is important that this be a port/socket on your computer and that you know that it works. Do not use a port in a FireWire hub or another FireWire device or a FireWire port in an Apple Display for testing. (Also see d below if you have an 800 FIreWIre Computer)
c) Check System Profiler (Apple Icon menu top Left > About this Mac. > More Info Button)Open the Reveal Triangles to see the list and go to Hardware > FireWire. (Use USB for Internal Cameras)
If it appears here try booting or Logging in as another user on the Mac (Create a Test account if you don't have one) and try item 2b) above again.
d) With FireWire 800 computers you may have to change your FireWire 400 to 800 Adaptor or Cable to get full Audio functionality with Lion Apps
If it is not in the System Profiler you are almost certainly going to need the Trouble Shooting Article from Apple at this point. This Article may also be of help (number HT1317 What to do if your computer won't recognise a FireWire or USB device).
If you have not resolved things at this stage it is going to be time for an Engineer with Apple credentials.There are no user serviceable parts inside any iSight.
Other Items
Audio.
The External Camera has two mics inside.The volume it records at or plays through for iChat is controlled in System Preferences > Sound > Input tab (select device) and this should be set to get the blue response bar to at least half way (preferably three quarters) when you talk.The same applies to any other Mic, even the Internal one on laptops and some other Macs.
Firmware.
The System Profiler as detailed above should tell you the Firmware the iSight has. The current version is 1.0.3 and was updated in Panther. (Essentially it is an Audio compatibility update but does seem to help in other situations)
If your computer is running Panther (10.2.x) then use this Updater
If running Tiger (10.4.x) or Leopard (10.5.x) then navigate manually to your Hard Drive/System/Library/Core Services/iSight Updater and run the updater found there.
If an iSight is Plugged in on the Computer when you do an OS update and the firmware needs updating on the iSight this app is supposed to be triggered but it seem it may need a hand at times.
Focusing on the External iSight
Essentially the External iSight is self or Autofocusing.
If in doubt then try better lighting and strong colours as opposes to light or pastels.
(All built-in iSights are fixed focus. Therefore, unless a built-in iSight lens cover is dirty or smudged, any built-in iSight whose image is blurry needs service by an Engineer with Apple credentials.)
EZ Jim has these more specific recommendations for piece of mind.
Make a cross whose lines are about one-half inch or more wide on a plain background to use as a focus target. (I have even used black electrical tape.)
Turn on plenty of light and hold the target very still at about two or three feet from the lens. Watch iSight focus. (You may need to use a tripod or brace yourself to hold the target still enough.)
Then quickly move the target and hold it very still at about one foot away from the lens. Watch iSight focus.
Finally, move in to about six inches from iSight, and check focus there, too. (Holding the target still is more important as you get closer to iSight.)
This Users Tip by Ian Bickerstaff can give you clues for any application really "Look and sound good in iChat"
Other Info and Links
iSight Support info at Apple Links to Users Guide, Manual and many other topics on the External iSight.
Apple's iSight Firewire Connectivity FAQs
Apple's iSight Service FAQs
If you feel you have not understood or think you have not grasped something here or in the links so far try the iSight Discussion Forum
1:13 PM Saturday; October 8, 2011
Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"
G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
MacBookPro 2Gb( 10.6.8)
Mac OS X (10.6.8),
"Limit the Logs to the Bits above Binary Images." No, Seriously -
Trouble shooting guide! Read this first!!!! rev 13-1-2004
(Revision 13-1-2004)
Hi there,
Follow everything on the list, even if it doesn't look like it would solve your problem, most problems are created somewhere else!
To give some examples:
CPU won't run FSB133....mostly powersupply or CPU-cooler.
Videocard won't load drivers....mostly powersupply.
Sound won't work.....mostly metal-standoff's.
Windows won't install, file read error.....mostly CPU-cooler, Bad-ram or powersupply.
That is why you need to go over the entire list and check all!
Before you start doing anything, remove the power and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. If you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
There are several reasons why this happens.....to name the most commen:
CPU speeds
You have a Duron, that CPU is 100FSB!
You have a Athlon(XP) and it's showing the wrong speed, set the CPU-FSB to 133....
Or 166 when it's a FSB333 CPU....or 200 when it's a FSB400 CPU....
Some boards have a jumper to set it, other do it in the BIOS.
Check your manual for this.
Speeds must be:
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Use this link to see if your motherboard actually supports your CPU.
The TBred CPU's (0.13) start from XP-1700 and up, but not all boards support this CPU and they either show on the D-LED all red or don't start at all!!
The K7T266pro2 is an exception, it can be made to support the TBred CPU's, on this link you find all the info on how to make it work.
Many reports have told us that FSB333 CPU's work on KT3-Ultra boards work just fine, but it's unsupported by MSI, we don't know why....
As for mulipliers with AMD CPU's, just set them Automatic, as they are hardcoded on the CPU themselves and will allway's be correctly, even if if you think the BIOS doesn't know it.
How to recognise the CPU:
If you look on the dice, there are letters after the speed.
The last letter will tell you the FSB of the CPU.
B=100MHz (=200DDR)
C=133MHz (=266DDR)
D=166MHz (=333DDR)
E=200MHz (=400DDR)
To recognise a CPU quickly, checkout this link.
Thanks Mellops.
The MHz setting must match your setting in the BIOS for FSB value, as it translates to the correct FSB setting for the CPU.
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
Detailed information on the code can be found in this AMD document. (Thanks Hans)
CPU Cooling
CPU cooler not made for your CPU, check if it can handle your CPU....
CPU cooler mounted wrong!, take it off and check it as it will fit 2 way's, but only 1 is the right one, examine very carefull!
The cooler has a lower part that needs to go over the bump (higher part) of the socket, if it's not over there it won't cool the entire dice and WILL give you trouble.
Also check if it's making contact with the entire dice of the CPU...
Make sure you regrease it again, the same grease/paste can't be used twice!
YOU MAY NEVER USE A THERMALPAD OR GREASE AGAIN! APPLY NEW EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE COOLER OFF!!
top 2 show how not to do it
Used too much silver-grease! It will shorten the bridges on the CPU, clean it and use white-paste.
(Silver-paste is not recommended in any case!)
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2200 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because the dice is smaller and generates far more heat per square cm then the "old" CPU's do.
How to check the cooler before taking it off.
There is a simple way to check the cooler without taking it off.
You do this by first checking your idle temp with PCAlert, it should be below 50-55C.
Then you download a client from www.distributed.net, let this client run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a big chance you mounted the CPU-cooler wrong.
When you can't run this check, try with FSB100, if the system does run the check then, it could be well that the cooler is mounted wrong or your powersupply doesn't have enough power.
***** YOU CAN'T CHECK THE CPU COOLER ON TEMPS OR FAN RUNNING, IT MUST BE TAKEN OFF THE CPU!!! *****
Cleaning the CPU and Cooler - thanks to Dragon60 for his addition.
An additional comments about this is what you clean the CPU with in this situation. The best thing to use is isopropyl alcohol. If this is not available then metholated spirits would do.
Make sure you allow the CPU to dry properly before you put it back in. This also means DO NOT try and clean it whilst it is still in the socket as some of the cleaning fluid, grease and dirt may get underneath and short some pins.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may disolve some parts.
Thanks Dragon60.
If you don't understand what we are talking about on this cooler matter, then read this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
Powersupplies
Powersupply too little, most commen cheap 300W CPU's can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your powersupply has about 185W combined on the 3.3+5V and that the 3.3V has 20A or above.
That should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the 12V has become very important too, expecialy with TBred CPU's.
Make sure yours can give 18A or more on the 12V line too.
I have found that a lot of cheap 350W will fail with modern boards and TBred CPU's.
Allway's make sure you have a decend PSU, it never fails to spent a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure....
More info about powersupplies: Click here.
And the second you must read: Click here.
Powersupplies with these type of numbers on them or higher should be fine:
3.3V - 28A or better
5V - 30A or better
12V - 18A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!!
Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!!
Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
Metalclips
Stand-off's left between the board and the case, take the board out and check for too many of those metal-clips, they can shorten circuits and cause al sorts of problems (most of the time audio problems)
RAM
Ram problems, don't try to run with PC100 (SDram boards) when you have a 133FSB CPU, get PC133 ram of decend quality.
In any case, don't use cheap quality ram (Crucial seems decend, but give's a lot of problems, I consider these cheap quality too :P ), replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it....
DDR ram speeds:
Duron upto 1300/Athlon-B =100FSB=PC-1600=DDR200
Duron from 1400 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon-C/XP upto 2600 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above =166FSB=PC-2700=DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above =200FSB=PC-3200=DDR400
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock, they have no speed gain if run at the correct speed. You may use faster ram on a slower system, the speeds given are what is needed minimum.
Perform RAM test tools, ie http://www.memtest.org if you suspect RAM is faulty, such as BSOD or data corruption. [added by Maesus]
Try your system allway's with 1 stick of ram, adding more sticks can give all the trouble too.
Some sticks just won't work in pair and a lot fail when you put 3 or more in the system.
When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the MSI tested ones, they are your best chance that they work without problems.
If still nothing, try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or rise the Ram voltage a little, be carefull doing this!
Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in there.
BIOS
BIOS settings not right, clear the CMos and start with the default settings, if it works, try setting ONLY the FSB to 133 if needed, nothing more.....
And go further from there......
Clearing CMos
When you clear the CMos, make sure that all power is cut from the system.
This is done by takeing the wall-plug out or use the switch on the powersupply to turn it off.
On most boards, as far as I know all MSI boards, you must set the JBat1 to position 2-3 (clear position) for about 10 seconds, then set it back to 1-2 (keep data position)
After this your CMos should be cleared and you can turn the system back on.
In some rare cases it's needed to take the battery out too for a minute or so.
It can happen that the system will prompt you to set the BIOS again, go into the BIOS and set everything you need, then save the settings.
Thanks fguevara.
Harddisks
Harddisk is giving problems, most of the time with WD drive's, they are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = if you have a slave drive attached
Jumper slave = when it's slave to another drive
Harddisk is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the blue connector to the board, and don't let the other end of the cable unused, make sure there is a device connected to it.
The middle connector can be left into the air without problems if not needed.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Click here for DFT
Other brand drives can have problems too, make sure they are ok, as harddisk failure can cause all sorts of problems.
Allway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape, if not, replace it and try another to verify.
For more information read this: Click here.
To know what harddisks your motherboard support, use this link.
To enable harddisk over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The KT4 raid boards only support 1 harddisk on IDE3, the rest must be SATA drive's!!
Harddisk/power led not functioning - thanks to Tweetyoost
If your HD led or power led not work try to switch(wrong + or - side) the connectors on the motherboard.
leds will work only when + or - is correct
Thanks Tweetyoost.
Floppy drive's
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the led stay's on all the time.
Make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS, as the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable, make sure the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side.
If the light stay's on, flip the connector at the floppy-drive arround.
Sometimes it happens that even after all this, they still don't work, try with another drive from another brand.
Not able to enter the BIOS or lockup
When you try to enter the BIOS it won't go in there or
lockup, but your system is running fine.
This symtom can happen when your CPU-Cooler is giving spikes on the coolerwire.
Try with another brand of cooler to test if it solves it.
Keyboard and optical mouse lights stay on after power off[/U]
Some motherboards have a jumper called JKBV1, this jumper is located (mostly) near the keyboard connector, put it in the other position.
If your board doesn't have the jumper, try to find the following BIOS settings and turn them off:
resume on KBC
resume on PS/2
resume by alarm
USB ports not working[/U]
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled.
USB2.0 ports are supported in Win2000+SP3 and XP+SP1, just let the OS reinstall the ports and they should work.
Thanks Stygge
Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case.
But if you still like to do so, please support the board, because if you don't you might bent the board a little and cause other components to make bad contact.
Allways support the board when you replace stuff, no matter what!
Also make sure your system can take the replacement, it could happen for example that your powersupply can't handle your changed videocard from GF2MX to GF4Ti4600.
Test all the parts in another system
Make sure that the new part is in good working order in the first place (in particular: videocard, CPU, memory): try it in another system, or have it demonstrated by the one you bought it from if possible.
Testing might also give you a clue on what is actually wrong in your own system.
Thanks HansH.
Checking the powersupply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
Disconnect the powersupply.
Orientate the 20pin Powerconnector with the clip up.
Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire.
Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
Now connect the power and the fan inside the powersupply should start spinning.
If it doesn't your powersupply maybe dead.
Thanks HansH.
KT4 users
Please read the Un-Official KT4 guide if you have CRC errors or strange crashes.
These can be BIOS problems.
In any case !!!Only flash if the system is stable!!!
Set default-settings and FSB100 to make it stable first!!!
Motherboards making a Siren-sound
If your board is making the sound of a firetruck, BEEP-BOOP-BEEP-BOOP...
Check the folowing:
1. CPU too hot
2. chassis intrusion was enabled in the BIOS
3. PSU is below min/max allowable value
Stutter in audio
Remove your antivirus software.
We have heard a few cases where the stuttering was created by badly behaving antivirus software.
Disable cpu halt command if it's in the BIOS (Thanks Pascal16)
Windows
Windows2000/XP won't run stable, try to disable APIC and install again....
Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
Windows2000/XP won't install USB2.0, install the latest servicepak (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP).
Let Windows rediscover the USB ports, they should work now.
If you have driver or other problems and don't know what to do anymore but Windows does function without crashing, read this: Click here.
Audio [added by Maesus, 20/2/2003]
Can't stream AC3 via SPDIF to external DD decoder? try this ac3filter [info provided by Manfred ]
Lan not working 100MBit
You could try this patch, seems to work on some boards.
The download-link is at the bottom of this post.
I think I have about covered all most commen problems....
Check those first before you ask us, as it's not fun to type the same over and over again.... :(
Another good link for trouble shooting is here: Link
If you have more issues that can solve problems, please write your thing below......
I will insert your comments in this guide, with credits, offcourse 8)
!!I will delete any attempt for discussion or problem report below this message.....!!
Please report back, in another thread, if your problem was solved and how you did it, this will help others a great deal.
It's only ment to help people as a guide to where the problem can be, start a new thread if this guide didn't solve your problem and you need more help!
This thread is only for the experts to guide you into a solution :]Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true. -
Trouble Shooting Revisited
Ok We will start with loading Tiger and iChat version 3.0
From Panther
There are or were serveral Add-ons and applications avaiblable to Panther users of iChat that are not compatible with iChat 3.
These following need to be deleted.
iCAR - An Add-on that posts an Auto response Away message (produces a 1 fps result in a Video chat)
Virex for Panther - An Anti Virus app avialable to @mac account users (Produces the 1 fsp problem)
iChatUSBCam for Panther/iChat2.x - A Add-on utility for using iSight or USB cam with iChat2.x (Incompatible with Tiger/iChat 3)
iProfile - An Add-on for producing a profile on the AIM server that ichat 2.x could not do (not proven to be a problem but now not needed).
A clean install of Tiger (not Archive and Install) produces the best results.
But any install should also check these Tiger settings.
First, UPGRADE to 10.4.2 as this gets past many Connection issues that became apparent with the basic Tiger (10.4) and iChat 3.0 It updates iChat to version 3.0.1
Check Settings
Don't be complacent that you have not set anything different.
There are several new things in Tiger that may trip you up.
These are worth looking at:
Mac Firewall. Now includes the ability to Block all UDP traffic in the Advanced button (System Preferences > Sharing >Firewall tab then the Advanced Button).
Also can now open UDP protocol for ports where as the Panther one only did TCP (Check any old Panther settings you Added to the presets).
The ports should be:
<table border=1; cellpadding=5><Tr><td colspan=3; align=center>Tiger TCP and UDP Ports For Mac Firewall</td></tr><tr><td align=center>Method</td><td align=center>TCP Ports</td><td align=center>UDP Ports</td></Tr><tr><td>iChat over AIM</td><td>5190</td><td>5060, 5190, 5678, 16384-16403</td></tr><tr><td>Bonjou</td><td>5298</td><td>5297, 5298, 5353</td></tr><tr><td>Jabber</td><td>5220, 5222, 5223</td><td></td></tr><tr><td>All Ports</td><td>5190, 5220, 5222, 5223, 5298</td><td>5060, 5297, 5298, 5298, 5353, 5678, 16384-16403</td></tr></table>
QuickTime. This has a change in the name of the Connection Speed tab to Streaming (System Preferences > QuickTime) Check this is set to be equal to your connection speed (the download one if this is faster).
Date & Time. Not conclusively involved but worth eliminating. Set a Network Server and the correct Time Zone.
Apple Remote Desktop. If this is active in System Preferences > Sharing > Services tab it causes problems for iChat.
Next, test the actual speed you are getting from your ISP.
http://www.dslreports.com/stest
There is a table here of the speeds you need:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301050
The one you get linked to in the Help menu is wrong.
Other Known Problems
There are several other applications that iChat 3 does not seem to like.
folding@home This is a application that uses spare processor time to help find protein chains for a University.
PostgreSQL This is a data base application that can be reset to allow more processor time for iChat. See here http://www.murraywilliams.com/blog/archives/000046.html
Lotus Notes Some people have reported problems with this.
Make sure any Add-on Video cards or input PCI cards have up to date Firmware
Thread on Miglia.
IF you are still having problems I would do Routine Maintenance Tasks as laid out here.
Lastly, some routers/modems are SIP aware and give different results in iChat 3 compared to iChat 2.
This is due to the Operating System changing (like a new computer connecting to the modem) rather than iChat.
See www.ralphjohnsuk.dsl.pipex.com/page4Trouble Shooting Revisited
Ok We will start with loading Tiger and iChat version 3.0
From Panther
There are or were serveral Add-ons and applications avaiblable to Panther users of iChat that are not compatible with iChat 3.
These following need to be deleted.
iCAR - An Add-on that posts an Auto response Away message (produces a 1 fps result in a Video chat)
Virex for Panther - An Anti Virus app avialable to @mac account users (Produces the 1 fsp problem)
iChatUSBCam for Panther/iChat2.x - A Add-on utility for using iSight or USB cam with iChat2.x (Incompatible with Tiger/iChat 3)
iProfile - An Add-on for producing a profile on the AIM server that ichat 2.x could not do (not proven to be a problem but now not needed).
A clean install of Tiger (not Archive and Install) produces the best results.
But any install should also check these Tiger settings.
First, UPGRADE to 10.4.2 as this gets past many Connection issues that became apparent with the basic Tiger (10.4) and iChat 3.0 It updates iChat to version 3.0.1
Check Settings
Don't be complacent that you have not set anything different.
There are several new things in Tiger that may trip you up.
These are worth looking at:
Mac Firewall. Now includes the ability to Block all UDP traffic in the Advanced button (System Preferences > Sharing >Firewall tab then the Advanced Button).
Also can now open UDP protocol for ports where as the Panther one only did TCP (Check any old Panther settings you Added to the presets).
The ports should be:
Tiger TCP and UDP Ports For Mac FirewallUDP Ports for iChat over AIM:- 5060, 5190, 5678, 16384-16403
TCP:- 5190 (this is an As well setting)
Bonjour:_ 5297, 5298, 5353 on UDP
TCP:- 5298 (This is an As well setting)
Jabber:- 5220, 5222, 5223 TCP
All Ports for TCP:- 5190, 5220, 5222, 5223, 5298
For UDP:- 5060, 5297, 5298, 5298, 5353, 5678, 16384-16403
QuickTime. This has a change in the name of the Connection Speed tab to Streaming (System Preferences > QuickTime) Check this is set to be equal to your connection speed (the download one if this is faster).
Date & Time. Not conclusively involved but worth eliminating. Set a Network Server and the correct Time Zone.
Apple Remote Desktop. If this is active in System Preferences > Sharing > Services tab it causes problems for iChat.
Next, test the actual speed you are getting from your ISP.
http://www.dslreports.com/stest
There is a table here of the speeds you need:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301050
The one you get linked to in the Help menu is wrong.
Other Known Problems
There are several other applications that iChat 3 does not seem to like.
folding@home This is a application that uses spare processor time to help find protein chains for a University.
PostgreSQL This is a data base application that can be reset to allow more processor time for iChat. See here http://www.murraywilliams.com/blog/archives/000046.html
Lotus Notes Some people have reported problems with this.
Make sure any Add-on Video cards or input PCI cards have up to date Firmware
Thread on Miglia.
IF you are still having problems I would do Routine Maintenance Tasks as laid out here.
Lastly, some routers/modems are SIP aware and give different results in iChat 3 compared to iChat 2.
This is due to the Operating System changing (like a new computer connecting to the modem) rather than iChat.
See www.ralphjohnsuk.dsl.pipex.com/page4 -
I can't log into my iTunes account on my iPhone 5s. I logged out a few days ago to trouble shoot because I was trying to redeem some iTunes cards but when i pressed redeem nothing happened. I then tried to log back in immediately afterwards. I was unable to do so. After clicking "sign in" at the bottom of the apps main page, it brought up another menu where I clicked "Choose existing Apple ID". After pressing this the menu disappeared and nothing happened. I tried this multiple times and received the same result each time. I tried the other available option of creating a new AP ID to log in with and that one worked perfectly fine. I am clueless as to why the log in for me is either not able to load or just completely blocking me from getting back into my iTunes account on my phone. Not only can I not listen to the music I currently have, but I cannot log in to purchase the new music that I wanted to with my unused iTunes gift cards
I have the same problem too and tried alot of things like time zone , restarting or changing DNS of wifi connection to 8.8.8.8 still nothing happens .. !!
iPhone 5s, iOS 8.3 -
Have done all trouble shooting tech a through Apples and still have not resolved issues on Windows and itunes not detecting my Ipod nano 5th generation device. Tried restoring the device manually using disk mode and still not being detected by the computer. Device is our of warenty as when service repair charges are $125.00 dolars more than I paid for this device. There must be some way to restore the entire device to factor settings without having to be connected to itunes and Windows. I wish I could connect but again device is not being read. I have another Ipod that is 8GB instaed of 16GB and it works fine. The sad thing about this situation is that my 9year old daughter worked hard doing delivering fliers for a long time to save her money to buy this 16 GB 5th generation Nano. Otherwise the Ipod works well but will not syncronize songs as it is not being detected. Maybe this is a result of corrupt files that got onto my daughters Ipod somehow and thus causing it not the be detwected through the USB connection thus as a result not be understoud as a working device through Windows and itunes. If anyone can help me out there including itune techs that would be well appreciated, but for now my daughter is not able to add new or delete any songs on her ipod as well pictures, and everything. Thanks
Try changing the cord. I could NOT get my computer to recognize my iPod 5th Gen until I read somewhere that different apple devices use different cords. I was inadvertently using my iPad cord and that caused my computer to not recognize my ipod.
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Trouble-shooting no sound through the right side of Apple earphones with remote...
Hope this story of trouble-shooting this problem helps someone in the future.
For some strange reason, when I listened to a podcast using the Music app through the Apple earphones with remote on my iPhone 4, the right side has no sound. However, when I pull the earphone plug out one notch, I get sound from both sides, but the remote controls no longer work. At that point, I was sure I had a hardware problem, but where it lay-- earphones or iPhone 4, I didn't know.
1. For my first step, I tried the earphones with another iPhone 4, and got the exact same results. That convinced me that it was a problem with the earphones, but then I tried them on our iPad and they worked fine!
2. That ruled out the earphones and got me wondering if both iPhone 4's earphone jacks were flakey or misbehaving. I had read about the old fuzz in the jack problem, so I used an air blower to clean it out, but it made no difference. I still figured that maybe both jacks were stressed in some way, although two of them?
3. Then I read that some people found different apps worked--and even specifically that running Skype could solve things. That didn't work. However, it led me to try various streaming apps (e.g., Portal to the Universe, NPR) and everything was fine-- sound from both sides and remote controls fully functional.
At that point, I was convinced there was something odd going on with the Music app.
4. Finally, it occurred to me to try other podcasts-- and even other episodes of the particular podcast. They all worked fine.
So, it ended up being one particular podcast-- and, while I still do not know why, it means that the earphones, the headphone jack, the iPhones are all in fine shape! Yay!
In any event, the bottom-line is that it's really smart to consider *all* the variables that could be affecting the situation--especially the most obvious ones that you wouldn't even think about it. As it turned out, in my case, I had tested the very same podcast on both iPhones, so no wonder I got the very same results!I think you're right-- however, I always thought that mono recordings played through both ears--always worked that way on my old stereo system!
This podcast does that, too, but only if one pulls the plug out a bit! That's what's confusing to me. Why does it change from both ears to only one ear depending on far the plug is pushed in? (And especially as it behaves opposite what one would expect-- both ears when not plugged in all the way-- only 1 when fully embedded!) -
Since the last update, I iTunes pops up with an error message when I connect both iPods.. the older Nano (4th or 5th generation) will show up as a dirve on Windoes.. but the new Nano (the latest generation) will show up as a dirve until the error message pops up on itunes.. then it dissapearsll.. and both get the same error message.. that itunes detects an ipod, but it can not be identified properly.. it suggest I unplug and replug. (done that several times) or the uninstall and reinstall iTunes (won't work either) .. and the trouble shooting isn't changing anything.
They both worked fine before the last updateSince the last update, I iTunes pops up with an error message when I connect both iPods.. the older Nano (4th or 5th generation) will show up as a dirve on Windoes.. but the new Nano (the latest generation) will show up as a dirve until the error message pops up on itunes.. then it dissapearsll.. and both get the same error message.. that itunes detects an ipod, but it can not be identified properly.. it suggest I unplug and replug. (done that several times) or the uninstall and reinstall iTunes (won't work either) .. and the trouble shooting isn't changing anything.
They both worked fine before the last update -
My computer thinks my iPad is a camera. I've done Apples trouble shooting instructions. No success. When I try to d'load and install iPad Software Update it comes up with an error message when installing, saying the network connection has timed out.
Has anyone any advice?Your computer thinking your iPad is a camera is a common problem. When I connect my iPad to my computer the computer starts a camera application and wants to download photos from the iPad. To work around this here are two suggestions:
1. Just quit the camera software that starts up and start up iTunes instead.
2. On a Mac what happens when you connect a camera is usually controlled by the Image Capture application. It's in the Application folder on your Mac. Might be in the Utilities folder inside the Applications folder. I'm not sure right now. In any case start up Image Capture and look at the preferences. There should be a choice for running an application when a camera is connected or do nothing. Change it to do nothing and save the preferences then close Image Capture. The next time you connect your iPad (or a camera) no camera or Image Capture software will run. When you do connect a camera you'll have to startup the camera software or Image Capture manually.
On a pc there might be a similar application that controls what software app runs when a camera is connected and the solution is probably similar. Sorry but I don't know much about pcs to help here.
As far as the time out problem when upgrading the iOS software, I've seen quite a few posts on this. It seems that certain firewall software in your Wi-Fi router or Mac and/or virus protection software on your Mac can interfer with the fluid download of the upgrade. The cure is to turn off firewall protection and virus protection during the upgrade process. Turn those back on when you are finished. Once you get to iOS 5 you will be able to perform future upgrades directly from the iPad via Wi-Fi and not have to connect to you computer to upgrade. -
Where to start trouble shooting
weirdest problem I ever had. I recently updated a site done
in flash 8 AS1
and made some changes and publsihed to Flash 8 action
script2. Something
I've never done before
Locally everything works fine. On the net it is hit or miss.
80 % of the
time it works fine, the other 20, none of the flash
functionality works.
This is an FLV player in a loaded SWF
To fix it I refresh the browser and all is well again.
site is pretty simple main movie loading SWFs onto layers.
Change I made was
to add an a FLV player to an already existing swf that loads
onto the main
movie.. I am thinking something in the code switch from 1 to
2 but if it
works fine sometimes, I can't image what it could be. I would
think if it
works once, it should work all the time.
www.awdwest.com/v2working/
any thought on where to trouble shoot would be appreciated.
Al Winchell
www.AWDWest.com
818-395-5830If you are seeing intermittent performance when using the
same computer, then the problem may be that some part of what you
are loading contains code that is needed at the start, and that
this part is not loaded when the code is called for. -
No sound! Tried everything in trouble shooting.
So as the title says I have no sound. I have tried all the trouble shooting suggestions none of which have helped. I have unistalled/re-installed skype many times and the probelem still persists. I have checked all the audio options and have set all the appropriate ones to my headset ('Headset Earphone (Razer Kraken 7.1)').
The only way I can get sound from skype is by changing the audio settings to my speakers and turning them on... My headset isn't broken becuase all other sound from my computer works fine with them. But why not skype.
Other info:
Operating System - Windows 7 64-bit
Skype Version - 7.1.59.105
If nobody is able to provide a solution can someone please point me in the direction of the customer support. I have been unable to find any way to contact them on the site.All that's left is either to send it away for service to one of the many 3rd party repair sites (cheaper than Apple), or if you're knowledgeable about these things, open it up yourself. Might be just a loose connection that you can quickly repair.
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i have a HP laptop, when i try to do certain things that require flash player it tells me i need to install the latest version so when i try it says its already installed. i have tried all the trouble shooting suggestions and it stll isnt working. I even checked the activex filtering and that doesn't seem to be the problem.
First, confirm that ActiveX Filtering is configured to allow Flash content:
https://forums.adobe.com/thread/867968
Internet Explorer 11 introduces a number of changes both to how the browser identifies itself to remote web servers, and to how it processes JavaScript intended to target behaviors specific to Internet Explorer. Unfortunately, this means that content on some sites will be broken until the content provider changes their site to conform to the new development approach required by modern versions of IE.
You can try to work around these issues by using Compatibility View:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/internet-explorer/use-compatibility-view#ie=ie-11
If that is too inconvenient, using Google Chrome may be a preferable alternative. -
Have done all the trouble shooting connection but my iPad still can not get wifi connection
i have done all the trouble shooting connection but mu iPAd still can not get wifi connection
Hi Jo,
Each router is a little different but here are the basics: login to the router using the administrator account, should have that info from the installer, and then you should find something like security settings, or it may be advanced security. There will be a setting to the effect of limiting access, or it may say allow Mac address authentication, or admit the Mac addresses in the table...if that is switched on, you can just switch it off and that will allow any wireless device to attach. If you want to keep it on, then you have to enter the Mac address for the device you want to use for access. In the case of the iPad, go to Settings > General > About > WiFi Address (another way of saying Mac address). Enter that very long sequence in the router's Mac address acceptance table and that should take care of things.
Using the Mac address does not change any of the email settings, just limits attaching to the router in the first place.
If you are already getting email, you must be attaching already so this should not be an issue. If you are having email issues, such as receive but not send, you may not have the outgoing server set correctly: Settings > Mail > Account > Outgoing server name (usually an SMTP server) and you may have to go to the advanced settings to enter the outgoing password (normally the same as the account/incoming password) and then check to see if SSL is ON or OFF...most common email services say to set to OFF.
Maybe you are looking for
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My Mac Book Pro is very hot !!!
Hi just recently I have been unable to touch the rear edge of the underside of my Mac Book Pro because it SO HOT it almost burns me !!!!, happily it still appears to work ok, maybe the cooling fans have stopped working , is there perhaps a way I can
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HTMLB, WebDynpro or both together?
Hi @ all, I had a look at some possibilities to create Portal Content . I read something about HTMLB and the comparison to WebDynpro in the SDN Forum. Some guys are saying that they would prefer HTMLB and some others saying that they prefer WebDynpro
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i bought my mac os x laptop (leopard) several months ago and have saved a good amount of documents and music and such. i realized that i never installed the disks that the computer came with- but i haven't run into any problems. is my computer missin
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W520 "Power Manager has stopped working" then "finterprint software error"
For the last 6 months, I have not done any lenovo updates,and stuck with old working versions of bios, powermanager, nvidia drivers etc (having lived though the nightmanre of the fist 6 months with CPUs stuck at min on mains and max on batteries etc)
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Razr not charging now totally dead
This afternoon I plugged my phone to its wall charger and about an hour later I when I went to get it, it had not charged at all. Infact it was down to the thinnest red line. By the time I got home it was totally dead. So I got my other wall charger