Trouble shooting "no paper issue.

i have a hp 3100 series all in one copier #3180 - I am trying to copy and get the message of Printer out of paper each time.
There is paper in the machine but it will not copy??

I think you're right-- however, I always thought that mono recordings played through both ears--always worked that way on my old stereo system! 
This podcast does that, too, but only if one pulls the plug out a bit!  That's what's confusing to me.  Why does it change from both ears to only one ear depending on far the plug is pushed in?  (And especially as it behaves opposite what one would expect-- both ears when not plugged in all the way-- only 1 when fully embedded!)

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    regards
    Ram Kumar
    << Unformatable code removed >>
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  • Trouble-shooting SAP BEx authentication issues

    Hi Experts,
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  • How can i know more trouble shooting issues/Real time problems and thier solutions?

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    If you want to know more about issues related to your own internal servers, I'd simply start by reviewing the event logs and running perfmon in the short term to look for issues.  For more long term management and monitoring I'd look to a tool
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    http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/hh205987.aspx
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    To help troubleshoot we'll need the following system information:
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  • Kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?  Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera.  (Version 3)

    Replacement for the second draft of this Thread   (To be removed if Published as Tip)
    kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?
    Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera.  (Version 3)
    Hi,     On many subjects Apple has Articles and Documents that can help.
    In some case they are written by an Engineer or similar and can miss the mark for the average user.
    In other cases they are crafted, detailed responses to an issue that has popped up many times in the Apple Discussions and take the best from many responses in those User-to-User Discussions, creating something that can not be surpassed.
    This is the case of the Apple Article HT2090 on Trouble Shooting an iSight.
    It lists steps and processes to go through for both Internal iSights and External ones.
    However as with most things it does sometime pay to reword things differently so that people grasp the points in language they understand.
    The info here is a reworking itself of two pages at ralphjohns.co.uk/EZ Jim pages namely EZ JIm's page 2 Where can I Find Help With My iSight ? and his page 4, How Can I Test My iSight is Completely Functional ?  which were written several years ago and predate the Apple Article, being aimed at the External iSight.  They have been updated since to address the Internal iSight as well but some of the comments are useful between the two types.
    External First.  For Internal iSights Start at 2b)  (you will need to adjust some options/steps as the Internal is USB)
    Steps
    1) Pre Purchase
    If buying an External iSight you should if you an get to see it in action.Apple no longer sells the External iSight so you will be buying it second hand.If you cannot get to see the device plugged in and working on  Mac then check the smaller print of the seller and selling site as to nature of Returns and Faulty Goods.
    2) Does it work ?
    a) First of all Plug it in.  It should come with a suitable mount (although there are variants on this) and a 6 pin to 6 pin Firewire cable.
    Ideally it should have it's own Firewire port/socket on your computer. Connecting it "DaisyChained" to other devices can be a problem as they do not all use Firewire at the same Data speed.
    It will then go through some checks as the OS powers it up and checks it's firmware.
    Do not be concerned that the little green indicator light atop your iSight illuminates for a few seconds and then goes dark when you first connect your iSight or power on your Mac. Do not be concerned if you hear a soft whir as iSight attempt to focus either. Both these occurrences are normal. If your iSight passes the following tests, do not worry about this sound or the status of the green light.
    There is no ON switch as such.  It does have an iris mechanism that can be controlled by the User.  The iris should be turned so you can see the Lens for the iSight to send pictures to an application.
    b) Pick an Application to see the picture the iSight produces.iChat is one application you can use. Photobooth is another. iMovie (Version 4 or above for external iSight -- Version 6 or above for in-built iSight) and Comic Book (if bundled on your Mac) are yet more.
    See this Users Tip for more applications Or this page for yet more.
    Photo Booth is probably the simplest as it has no Preferences to choose a camera in the original version and is done from the Menu items in later versions  (nor is there any setting in the OS) and Photo Booth will default to the External Camera if one is plugged in before the application is started.     If you see your self or what the camera is pointing at, It Works !!
    3) If it does Not Work
    a) Check Cables/leads.  Re-seat the cable at both ends. DO this carefully as although Firewire cables are keyed to fit the right way it has been known to force them the wrong way.
    Try another 6 pin to 6 pin firewire cable.
    b) Unplug the cable from any other FireWire device and give the iSight it's Own FireWire port/socket on the Mac (exclude issues with other FireWire devices). It is important that this be a port/socket on your computer and that you know that it works. Do not use a port in a FireWire hub or another FireWire device or a FireWire port in an Apple Display for testing.  (Also see d below if you have an 800 FIreWIre Computer)
    c) Check System Profiler (Apple Icon menu top Left > About this Mac. > More Info Button)Open the Reveal Triangles to see the list and go to Hardware > FireWire.  (Use USB for Internal Cameras)
    If it appears here try booting or Logging in as another user on the Mac (Create a Test account if you don't have one) and try item 2b) above again.
    d) With FireWire 800 computers you may have to change your FireWire 400 to 800 Adaptor or Cable to get full Audio functionality with Lion Apps
    If it is not in the System Profiler you are almost certainly going to need the Trouble Shooting Article from Apple at this point.  This Article may also be of help (number HT1317 What to do if your computer won't recognise a FireWire or USB device).
    If you have not resolved things at this stage it is going to be time for an Engineer with Apple credentials.There are no user serviceable parts inside any iSight.
    Other Items
    Audio.
    The External Camera has two mics inside.The volume it records at or plays through for iChat is controlled in System Preferences > Sound > Input tab (select device) and this should be set to get the blue response bar to at least half way (preferably three quarters) when you talk.The same applies to any other Mic, even the Internal one on laptops and some other Macs.
    Firmware.
    The System Profiler as detailed above should tell you the Firmware the iSight has.  The current version is 1.0.3 and was updated in Panther.  (Essentially it is an Audio compatibility update but does seem to help in other situations)
    If your computer is running Panther (10.2.x) then use this Updater
    If running Tiger (10.4.x) or Leopard (10.5.x) then navigate manually to your Hard Drive/System/Library/Core Services/iSight Updater and run the updater found there.
    If an iSight is Plugged in on the Computer when you do an  OS update and the firmware needs updating on the iSight this app is supposed to be triggered but it seem it may need a hand at times.
    Focusing on the External iSight
    Essentially the External iSight is self or Autofocusing.
    If in doubt then try better lighting and strong colours as opposes to light or pastels.
    (All built-in iSights are fixed focus. Therefore, unless a built-in iSight lens cover is dirty or smudged, any built-in iSight whose image is blurry needs service by an Engineer with Apple credentials.)
    EZ Jim has these more specific recommendations for piece of mind.
      Make a cross whose lines are about one-half inch or more wide on a plain background to use as a focus target. (I have even used black electrical tape.)
    Turn on plenty of light and hold the target very still at about two or three feet from the lens. Watch iSight focus. (You may need to use a tripod or brace yourself to hold the target still enough.)
    Then quickly move the target and hold it very still at about one foot away from the lens. Watch iSight focus.
      Finally, move in to about six inches from iSight, and check focus there, too. (Holding the target still is more important as you get closer to iSight.)
    This Users Tip by Ian Bickerstaff  can give you clues for any application really  "Look  and sound good in iChat"
    Other Info and Links
    iSight Support info at Apple Links to Users Guide, Manual and many other topics on the External iSight.
    Apple's iSight Firewire Connectivity FAQs
    Apple's iSight Service FAQs
    If you feel you have not understood or think you have not grasped something here or in the links so far try the iSight Discussion Forum
    1:13 PM      Saturday; October 8, 2011
    Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"
     G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
     MacBookPro 2Gb( 10.6.8)
     Mac OS X (10.6.8),
    "Limit the Logs to the Bits above Binary Images."  No, Seriously

    Replacement for the second draft of this Thread   (To be removed if Published as Tip)
    kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?
    Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera.  (Version 3)
    Hi,     On many subjects Apple has Articles and Documents that can help.
    In some case they are written by an Engineer or similar and can miss the mark for the average user.
    In other cases they are crafted, detailed responses to an issue that has popped up many times in the Apple Discussions and take the best from many responses in those User-to-User Discussions, creating something that can not be surpassed.
    This is the case of the Apple Article HT2090 on Trouble Shooting an iSight.
    It lists steps and processes to go through for both Internal iSights and External ones.
    However as with most things it does sometime pay to reword things differently so that people grasp the points in language they understand.
    The info here is a reworking itself of two pages at ralphjohns.co.uk/EZ Jim pages namely EZ JIm's page 2 Where can I Find Help With My iSight ? and his page 4, How Can I Test My iSight is Completely Functional ?  which were written several years ago and predate the Apple Article, being aimed at the External iSight.  They have been updated since to address the Internal iSight as well but some of the comments are useful between the two types.
    External First.  For Internal iSights Start at 2b)  (you will need to adjust some options/steps as the Internal is USB)
    Steps
    1) Pre Purchase
    If buying an External iSight you should if you an get to see it in action.Apple no longer sells the External iSight so you will be buying it second hand.If you cannot get to see the device plugged in and working on  Mac then check the smaller print of the seller and selling site as to nature of Returns and Faulty Goods.
    2) Does it work ?
    a) First of all Plug it in.  It should come with a suitable mount (although there are variants on this) and a 6 pin to 6 pin Firewire cable.
    Ideally it should have it's own Firewire port/socket on your computer. Connecting it "DaisyChained" to other devices can be a problem as they do not all use Firewire at the same Data speed.
    It will then go through some checks as the OS powers it up and checks it's firmware.
    Do not be concerned that the little green indicator light atop your iSight illuminates for a few seconds and then goes dark when you first connect your iSight or power on your Mac. Do not be concerned if you hear a soft whir as iSight attempt to focus either. Both these occurrences are normal. If your iSight passes the following tests, do not worry about this sound or the status of the green light.
    There is no ON switch as such.  It does have an iris mechanism that can be controlled by the User.  The iris should be turned so you can see the Lens for the iSight to send pictures to an application.
    b) Pick an Application to see the picture the iSight produces.iChat is one application you can use. Photobooth is another. iMovie (Version 4 or above for external iSight -- Version 6 or above for in-built iSight) and Comic Book (if bundled on your Mac) are yet more.
    See this Users Tip for more applications Or this page for yet more.
    Photo Booth is probably the simplest as it has no Preferences to choose a camera in the original version and is done from the Menu items in later versions  (nor is there any setting in the OS) and Photo Booth will default to the External Camera if one is plugged in before the application is started.     If you see your self or what the camera is pointing at, It Works !!
    3) If it does Not Work
    a) Check Cables/leads.  Re-seat the cable at both ends. DO this carefully as although Firewire cables are keyed to fit the right way it has been known to force them the wrong way.
    Try another 6 pin to 6 pin firewire cable.
    b) Unplug the cable from any other FireWire device and give the iSight it's Own FireWire port/socket on the Mac (exclude issues with other FireWire devices). It is important that this be a port/socket on your computer and that you know that it works. Do not use a port in a FireWire hub or another FireWire device or a FireWire port in an Apple Display for testing.  (Also see d below if you have an 800 FIreWIre Computer)
    c) Check System Profiler (Apple Icon menu top Left > About this Mac. > More Info Button)Open the Reveal Triangles to see the list and go to Hardware > FireWire.  (Use USB for Internal Cameras)
    If it appears here try booting or Logging in as another user on the Mac (Create a Test account if you don't have one) and try item 2b) above again.
    d) With FireWire 800 computers you may have to change your FireWire 400 to 800 Adaptor or Cable to get full Audio functionality with Lion Apps
    If it is not in the System Profiler you are almost certainly going to need the Trouble Shooting Article from Apple at this point.  This Article may also be of help (number HT1317 What to do if your computer won't recognise a FireWire or USB device).
    If you have not resolved things at this stage it is going to be time for an Engineer with Apple credentials.There are no user serviceable parts inside any iSight.
    Other Items
    Audio.
    The External Camera has two mics inside.The volume it records at or plays through for iChat is controlled in System Preferences > Sound > Input tab (select device) and this should be set to get the blue response bar to at least half way (preferably three quarters) when you talk.The same applies to any other Mic, even the Internal one on laptops and some other Macs.
    Firmware.
    The System Profiler as detailed above should tell you the Firmware the iSight has.  The current version is 1.0.3 and was updated in Panther.  (Essentially it is an Audio compatibility update but does seem to help in other situations)
    If your computer is running Panther (10.2.x) then use this Updater
    If running Tiger (10.4.x) or Leopard (10.5.x) then navigate manually to your Hard Drive/System/Library/Core Services/iSight Updater and run the updater found there.
    If an iSight is Plugged in on the Computer when you do an  OS update and the firmware needs updating on the iSight this app is supposed to be triggered but it seem it may need a hand at times.
    Focusing on the External iSight
    Essentially the External iSight is self or Autofocusing.
    If in doubt then try better lighting and strong colours as opposes to light or pastels.
    (All built-in iSights are fixed focus. Therefore, unless a built-in iSight lens cover is dirty or smudged, any built-in iSight whose image is blurry needs service by an Engineer with Apple credentials.)
    EZ Jim has these more specific recommendations for piece of mind.
      Make a cross whose lines are about one-half inch or more wide on a plain background to use as a focus target. (I have even used black electrical tape.)
    Turn on plenty of light and hold the target very still at about two or three feet from the lens. Watch iSight focus. (You may need to use a tripod or brace yourself to hold the target still enough.)
    Then quickly move the target and hold it very still at about one foot away from the lens. Watch iSight focus.
      Finally, move in to about six inches from iSight, and check focus there, too. (Holding the target still is more important as you get closer to iSight.)
    This Users Tip by Ian Bickerstaff  can give you clues for any application really  "Look  and sound good in iChat"
    Other Info and Links
    iSight Support info at Apple Links to Users Guide, Manual and many other topics on the External iSight.
    Apple's iSight Firewire Connectivity FAQs
    Apple's iSight Service FAQs
    If you feel you have not understood or think you have not grasped something here or in the links so far try the iSight Discussion Forum
    1:13 PM      Saturday; October 8, 2011
    Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"
     G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
     MacBookPro 2Gb( 10.6.8)
     Mac OS X (10.6.8),
    "Limit the Logs to the Bits above Binary Images."  No, Seriously

  • Trouble shooting guide! Read this first!!!! rev 13-1-2004

    (Revision 13-1-2004)  
    Hi there,
    Follow everything on the list, even if it doesn't look like it would solve your problem, most problems are created somewhere else!
    To give some examples:
    CPU won't run FSB133....mostly powersupply or CPU-cooler.
    Videocard won't load drivers....mostly powersupply.
    Sound won't work.....mostly metal-standoff's.
    Windows won't install, file read error.....mostly CPU-cooler, Bad-ram or powersupply.
    That is why you need to go over the entire list and check all!
    Before you start doing anything, remove the power and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. If you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!  
    Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
    There are several reasons why this happens.....to name the most commen:
    CPU speeds  
    You have a Duron, that CPU is 100FSB!
    You have a Athlon(XP) and it's showing the wrong speed, set the CPU-FSB to 133....
    Or 166 when it's a FSB333 CPU....or 200 when it's a FSB400 CPU....
    Some boards have a jumper to set it, other do it in the BIOS.
    Check your manual for this.
    Speeds must be:
    Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
    Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
    Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
    Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
    Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
    Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
    Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
    Use this link to see if your motherboard actually supports your CPU.
    The TBred CPU's (0.13) start from XP-1700 and up, but not all boards support this CPU and they either show on the D-LED all red or don't start at all!!
    The K7T266pro2 is an exception, it can be made to support the TBred CPU's, on this link you find all the info on how to make it work.
    Many reports have told us that FSB333 CPU's work on KT3-Ultra boards work just fine, but it's unsupported by MSI, we don't know why....
    As for mulipliers with AMD CPU's, just set them Automatic, as they are hardcoded on the CPU themselves and will allway's be correctly, even if if you think the BIOS doesn't know it.
    How to recognise the CPU:
    If you look on the dice, there are letters after the speed.
    The last letter will tell you the FSB of the CPU.
    B=100MHz (=200DDR)
    C=133MHz (=266DDR)
    D=166MHz (=333DDR)
    E=200MHz (=400DDR)
    To recognise a CPU quickly, checkout this link.
    Thanks Mellops.
    The MHz setting must match your setting in the BIOS for FSB value, as it translates to the correct FSB setting for the CPU.
    The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
    Detailed information on the code can be found in this AMD document. (Thanks Hans)
    CPU Cooling  
    CPU cooler not made for your CPU, check if it can handle your CPU....
    CPU cooler mounted wrong!, take it off and check it as it will fit 2 way's, but only 1 is the right one, examine very carefull!
    The cooler has a lower part that needs to go over the bump (higher part) of the socket, if it's not over there it won't cool the entire dice and WILL give you trouble.
    Also check if it's making contact with the entire dice of the CPU...
    Make sure you regrease it again, the same grease/paste can't be used twice!
    YOU MAY NEVER USE A THERMALPAD OR GREASE AGAIN! APPLY NEW EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE COOLER OFF!!  
    top 2 show how not to do it
    Used too much silver-grease! It will shorten the bridges on the CPU, clean it and use white-paste.
    (Silver-paste is not recommended in any case!)
    The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2200 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because the dice is smaller and generates far more heat per square cm then the "old" CPU's do.
    How to check the cooler before taking it off.
    There is a simple way to check the cooler without taking it off.
    You do this by first checking your idle temp with PCAlert, it should be below 50-55C.
    Then you download a client from www.distributed.net, let this client run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
    If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a big chance you mounted the CPU-cooler wrong.
    When you can't run this check, try with FSB100, if the system does run the check then, it could be well that the cooler is mounted wrong or your powersupply doesn't have enough power.
    ***** YOU CAN'T CHECK THE CPU COOLER ON TEMPS OR FAN RUNNING, IT MUST BE TAKEN OFF THE CPU!!! *****  
    Cleaning the CPU and Cooler - thanks to Dragon60 for his addition.
    An additional comments about this is what you clean the CPU with in this situation. The best thing to use is isopropyl alcohol. If this is not available then metholated spirits would do.
    Make sure you allow the CPU to dry properly before you put it back in. This also means DO NOT try and clean it whilst it is still in the socket as some of the cleaning fluid, grease and dirt may get underneath and short some pins.
    Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may disolve some parts.
    Thanks Dragon60.  
    If you don't understand what we are talking about on this cooler matter, then read this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide  
    Powersupplies  
    Powersupply too little, most commen cheap 300W CPU's can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
    Make sure your powersupply has about 185W combined on the 3.3+5V and that the 3.3V has 20A or above.
    That should be enough for most systems.
    On the latest boards the 12V has become very important too, expecialy with TBred CPU's.
    Make sure yours can give 18A or more on the 12V line too.
    I have found that a lot of cheap 350W will fail with modern boards and TBred CPU's.
    Allway's make sure you have a decend PSU, it never fails to spent a bit more on that part!
    Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure....
    More info about powersupplies: Click here.
    And the second you must read: Click here.
    Powersupplies with these type of numbers on them or higher should be fine:
    3.3V - 28A or better
    5V - 30A or better
    12V - 18A or better
    Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!!
    Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!!
    Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!  
    Metalclips  
    Stand-off's left between the board and the case, take the board out and check for too many of those metal-clips, they can shorten circuits and cause al sorts of problems (most of the time audio problems)
    RAM
    Ram problems, don't try to run with PC100 (SDram boards) when you have a 133FSB CPU, get PC133 ram of decend quality.
    In any case, don't use cheap quality ram (Crucial seems decend, but give's a lot of problems, I consider these cheap quality too :P ), replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it....
    DDR ram speeds:
    Duron upto 1300/Athlon-B =100FSB=PC-1600=DDR200
    Duron from 1400 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
    Athlon-C/XP upto 2600 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
    Athlon XP D-type and above =166FSB=PC-2700=DDR333
    Athlon XP E-type and above =200FSB=PC-3200=DDR400
    Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock, they have no speed gain if run at the correct speed. You may use faster ram on a slower system, the speeds given are what is needed minimum.
    Perform RAM test tools, ie http://www.memtest.org if you suspect RAM is faulty, such as BSOD or data corruption. [added by Maesus]
    Try your system allway's with 1 stick of ram, adding more sticks can give all the trouble too.
    Some sticks just won't work in pair and a lot fail when you put 3 or more in the system.
    When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the MSI tested ones, they are your best chance that they work without problems.
    If still nothing, try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
    Thanks boost
    Or rise the Ram voltage a little, be carefull doing this!
    Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in there.
    BIOS  
    BIOS settings not right, clear the CMos and start with the default settings, if it works, try setting ONLY the FSB to 133 if needed, nothing more.....
    And go further from there......
    Clearing CMos
    When you clear the CMos, make sure that all power is cut from the system.
    This is done by takeing the wall-plug out or use the switch on the powersupply to turn it off.
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    In some rare cases it's needed to take the battery out too for a minute or so.
    It can happen that the system will prompt you to set the BIOS again, go into the BIOS and set everything you need, then save the settings.
    Thanks fguevara.
    Harddisks  
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    Jumper master = if you have a slave drive attached
    Jumper slave = when it's slave to another drive
    Harddisk is doing weird things:
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    The middle connector can be left into the air without problems if not needed.
    IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
    Click here for DFT
    Other brand drives can have problems too, make sure they are ok, as harddisk failure can cause all sorts of problems.
    Allway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape, if not, replace it and try another to verify.
    For more information read this: Click here.
    To know what harddisks your motherboard support, use this link.
    To enable harddisk over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
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    The KT4 raid boards only support 1 harddisk on IDE3, the rest must be SATA drive's!!
    Harddisk/power led not functioning - thanks to Tweetyoost
    If your HD led or power led not work try to switch(wrong + or - side) the connectors on the motherboard.
    leds will work only when + or - is correct
    Thanks Tweetyoost.  
    Floppy drive's  
    If your floppy drive doesn't work or the led stay's on all the time.
    Make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS, as the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
    Check the cable, make sure the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side.
    If the light stay's on, flip the connector at the floppy-drive arround.
    Sometimes it happens that even after all this, they still don't work, try with another drive from another brand.
    Not able to enter the BIOS or lockup  
    When you try to enter the BIOS it won't go in there or
    lockup, but your system is running fine.
    This symtom can happen when your CPU-Cooler is giving spikes on the coolerwire.
    Try with another brand of cooler to test if it solves it.
    Keyboard and optical mouse lights stay on after power off[/U]
    Some motherboards have a jumper called JKBV1, this jumper is located (mostly) near the keyboard connector, put it in the other position.
    If your board doesn't have the jumper, try to find the following BIOS settings and turn them off:
    resume on KBC
    resume on PS/2
    resume by alarm
    USB ports not working[/U]
    Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled.
    USB2.0 ports are supported in Win2000+SP3 and XP+SP1, just let the OS reinstall the ports and they should work.
    Thanks Stygge
    Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
    It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case.
    But if you still like to do so, please support the board, because if you don't you might bent the board a little and cause other components to make bad contact.
    Allways support the board when you replace stuff, no matter what!
    Also make sure your system can take the replacement, it could happen for example that your powersupply can't handle your changed videocard from GF2MX to GF4Ti4600.
    Test all the parts in another system
    Make sure that the new part is in good working order in the first place (in particular: videocard, CPU, memory): try it in another system, or have it demonstrated by the one you bought it from if possible.
    Testing might also give you a clue on what is actually wrong in your own system.
    Thanks HansH.
    Checking the powersupply
    Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
    Disconnect the powersupply.
    Orientate the 20pin Powerconnector with the clip up.
    Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire.
    Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
    Now connect the power and the fan inside the powersupply should start spinning.
    If it doesn't your powersupply maybe dead.
    Thanks HansH.
    KT4 users  
    Please read the Un-Official KT4 guide if you have CRC errors or strange crashes.
    These can be BIOS problems.
    In any case !!!Only flash if the system is stable!!!
    Set default-settings and FSB100 to make it stable first!!!
    Motherboards making a Siren-sound
    If your board is making the sound of a firetruck, BEEP-BOOP-BEEP-BOOP...
    Check the folowing:
    1. CPU too hot
    2. chassis intrusion was enabled in the BIOS
    3. PSU is below min/max allowable value
    Stutter in audio
    Remove your antivirus software.
    We have heard a few cases where the stuttering was created by badly behaving antivirus software.
    Disable cpu halt command if it's in the BIOS (Thanks Pascal16)
    Windows  
    Windows2000/XP won't run stable, try to disable APIC and install again....
    Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
    Windows2000/XP won't install USB2.0, install the latest servicepak (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP).
    Let Windows rediscover the USB ports, they should work now.
    If you have driver or other problems and don't know what to do anymore but Windows does function without crashing, read this: Click here.
    Audio [added by Maesus, 20/2/2003]
    Can't stream AC3 via SPDIF to external DD decoder? try this ac3filter [info provided by Manfred ]
    Lan not working 100MBit
    You could try this patch, seems to work on some boards.
    The download-link is at the bottom of this post.
    I think I have about covered all most commen problems....
    Check those first before you ask us, as it's not fun to type the same over and over again.... :(
    Another good link for trouble shooting is here: Link
    If you have more issues that can solve problems, please write your thing below......
    I will insert your comments in this guide, with credits, offcourse 8)
    !!I will delete any attempt for discussion or problem report below this message.....!!
    Please report back, in another thread, if your problem was solved and how you did it, this will help others a great deal.
    It's only ment to help people as a guide to where the problem can be, start a new thread if this guide didn't solve your problem and you need more help!
    This thread is only for the experts to guide you into a solution :]

    Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
    Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
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    Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored:  no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
    I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
    xp 2500 barton 333
    creative sound 5.1gamers.
    512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
    boadband either onboard.
    MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
    Setting are:
    163 fsb
    mult of 11
    ddr 333
    video memory clock down to 450mhz
    3d clock to 390mhz
    The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true.

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    Try changing the cord. I could NOT get my computer to recognize my iPod 5th Gen until I read somewhere that different apple devices use different cords. I was inadvertently using my iPad cord and that caused my computer to not recognize my ipod.

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    Matt.

    Hi
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    Do you have a dynamic or fixed dimension table?
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  • Trouble shooting apex application calling web-service reference

    Hi,
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    Ramakrishnan

    It looks like you won't be able to test web service calls on apex.oracle.com. see this WebService on apex.oracle.com
    Edited by: tfa on Mar 18, 2013 9:59 AM

  • Keeps telling me that google.ca is an untrusted site and I have tried all the trouble shooting options to try and fix this what should I do

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    When you get the error page, could you check a couple things.
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    View Solution.

    This light pattern indicates that there is a paper jam or a paper motor stall.
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