Trouble with low light action shots on 70d

I just went from a T3i to a 70D. I seem to have trouble with action shots in low light situations, any suggestions on setting...
Solved!
Go to Solution.

"I just went from a T3i to a 70D"
... and didn't upgrade your lens inventory? Although the 70D will be better in most cases compared to a Rebel T3i, it is the lens. It is always the lens.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

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Adobe Photoshop Version: 14.2.1 (14.2.1 20140207.r.570 2014/02/07:23:00:00) x64
Operating System: Mac OS 10.9.2
System architecture: Intel CPU Family:6, Model:23, Stepping:10 with MMX, SSE Integer, SSE FP, SSE2, SSE3, SSE4.1
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Main Display
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OpenGL Drawing Mode: Advanced
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AIFCoreInitialized=1
AIFOGLInitialized=1
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gpu[0].OGLVersion="2.1"
gpu[0].MemoryMB=256
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gpu[0].glGetProgramivARB[GL_FRAGMENT_PROGRAM_ARB][GL_MAX_PROGRAM_INSTRUCTIONS_ARB]=[16384]
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gpu[0].glGetIntegerv[GL_MAX_TEXTURE_IMAGE_UNITS]=[16]
gpu[0].glGetIntegerv[GL_MAX_DRAW_BUFFERS]=[8]
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   Underpainting 14.2, Copyright © 1991-2014 Adobe Systems Incorporated - from the file “Filter Gallery.plugin”
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   Variance 14.2.1 x001 ©2006-2014 Adobe Systems Incorporated - from the file “statistics.plugin”
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   Wireless Bitmap 14.2.1 x001 ©1989-2014 Adobe Systems Incorporated - from the file “WBMP.plugin”
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Still having trouble with low internal memory

LG Vortex -
I couldn't even download a 136kb app today. It says I have 18.6 MB internal storage space available. All of my big apps are installed on my SD card, NOT on my phone and I have cleared the cache AND all the data on single thing in my manage apps settings (which ticked me off because I am aware by doing that I have lost my place in the book I was reading....) I do not use my phone for email at all, but I still went into gmail and cleaned out all emails and deleted the trash (less than 1MB total). I've turned off sync on everything except backup assistant. I can't even update my existing apps because just by signing into Google play store I run out of internal memory.
Any other suggestions? I'm sorry, but what a piece of trash phone.....I will be so glad when my contract comes up so I can get rid of this piece of junk.
Thanks in advance

Thank you for your response. My dialer storage is only 216kb in size, with 0 used in cache. I don't have an SMS backup, only contact backup (backup assistant).
I guess I"m just frustrated because so many smart phone users watch movies, read books, etc on their phones, and I can barely get mine to run a basic app.
I did more paring down tonight and got it up to 21 Mb. Better than 18 I suppose
Thanks for the suggestions

Trouble with low resolution

I am new to Lightroom 3.6. After I export my photos, I usually upload them to Picasa or Snapfish. I have noticed that the file sizes of my photos are much smaller than I would have thought after being exported. For example, I tried to print an 8 x 10 recently and it was 555 x 800 pixels, 151 KB. Snapfish recommended that I didn't print it, but I did anyway to see how it would look and the picture looked very pixelated. I had read online about jpeg files being compressed in Lightroom and causing them to become much smaller file sizes and my question is, "How do I avoid this?"
WIth the 8 x 10 that I recently printed, I had exported it at 2400 X 3000 pixels, with resolution 300 pixels per inch. Format was JPEG, Quality set at 76, color space sRGB. Are these the wrong settings?
I had read that I should not "resize to fit" my file to JPEG and instead, keep it at "orignal" when exporting. I did this, but it did not make any difference.
What can I do when exporting so that I am able to print photos larger than 5 x7 without lessening the resolution and file size?

All of these sizing issues are completely under your control.
If you exported a photo at 555X800, there are only two ways to get that ... either the original was 555x800, or you told LR to give you 555x800 on export. Can you check to see what the size of the original was?
WIth the 8 x 10 that I recently printed, I had exported it at 2400 X 3000 pixels, with resolution 300 pixels per inch. Format was JPEG, Quality set at 76, color space sRGB. Are these the wrong settings?
This can't be the photo that you said was 555x800, unless you made a mistake somewhere.
So, in order for us to see what happened, we need to know the number of pixels of the (cropped) image that is in Lightroom, and we need to see a screen capture of your Export Dialog box showing the Image Sizing section.
I had read online about jpeg files being compressed in Lightroom and causing them to become much smaller file sizes and my question is, "How do I avoid this?"
Any program, not just LR, compresses JPGs. There is no such thing as an uncompressed JPG. You cannot avoid this when you export a JPG. However, you can export a JPG such that the image will appear to be high quality when printed or viewed at a certain size.
More to the point, you are now confusing "file sizes" with pixel dimensions. These are not the same. In this discussion, the relevant information is pixel dimensions. The file size is meaningless. Compressing a JPG does not change the pixel dimensions.

Advice on late dusk shot with moving light

Once a year, for two days, the Split Rock lighthouse in MN lights up its lens. A bunch of photographers are there for the event.
The light comes on during dusk. A bit later than dusk, actually, so there is not a whole lot of light. The beam moves in a 360 pano.
I am using a Canon 40D, and because of the low light situation, I cranked the ISO up to 800, which introduces noise, especially at night, with longer shutter speeds.
I shot the scene with the light moving around, and used the continuous mode when the light came to face the lens, so as to capture the reflection off of the water.
I wasn't thinking this at the time, but I probably could have taken multiple shots of the light as it passed in front of the lens, then hopefully found several of them, then stacked the images to reduce noise.
What I'd like to do is lower the noise in these kinds of shots.
But, with a moving light source, I'm not sure what is the better way to do that.
Could you please suggest some ways to accomplish this task?
Thanks.
Al

> It stinks and it has lots of noise in low light levels ISO 800 is just impossible if you haven't notice then it speaks of why you can't see the obvious.
 
 Thank you, Wade - for yet another moronic comment.
 
 While the D3 is
 b marginally
 better at ISO 800 vs the 1Ds II, if one is "impossible" at ISO 800, so is the other. Hard to find a direct comparison, but here's some select screen shot samples from DPReview.
 
 
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=11bisg2BQ69RlUYLATnmi1a6dg6a8s0" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/11bisg2BQ69RlUYLATnmi1a6dg6a8s0_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
 
 Yep, at first glance the D3 looks
 i slightly
 better but you have to realize a couple of things.
 
 First, the D3 statue portion (blue channel) is
 i softer
 compared to the 1DsII. (my guess is it has stronger noise reduction employed than the 1DsII) You can't have overall in-camera noise reduction which also doesn't affect image sharpness. The noise in the 1DsII is "sharper" - but so is the image. A couple of points of Gaussian blur on the 1DsII ... or sharpening on the D3 would make the tiny noise difference even tinier.
 
 Secondly, looking at the grey patch on the 1DsII, notice that the noise is mostly in the form of color noise which extremely easy to get rid of - so much so that I never have to move the sliders in ACR/Lightroom off the default setting of 25. It's in the RAW image, but because of the default reduction in ACR, color noise is non-existant on either of my 1DsII bodies - even at ISO 1600. (Luminance noise has a greater impact on image sharpness and is much harder to get rid of - it can quickly create utter mush of an image if not used with care.)
 
 Third, there's a huge difference between pixel-peeping at 100% + views and real-world usability. Real-world usability is all that matters.
 
 There's no question that D3 is the undisputed champ when it comes to high ISO performance. However, that doesn't even
 b begin
 to start happening until ISO 1600.
 
 I appreciate that you're a mere newbie in this brave new world of digital but please ... stop proving you don't have a clue.
 
 I appreciate the info, Peter. Thanks!
 
 -phil

I am having trouble with the Jpeg icons and also now thumbnails not being visable in bith teh Apple finder and now also Adobe Bridge. Can anyone shed any light on this ?

I am having trouble with the Jpeg icons and also now thumbnails not being visable in bith teh Apple finder and now also Adobe Bridge. Can anyone shed any light on this ?

Argh - once again, I find my solution right after posting this. Left out one modification to the SWIG script, now it runs in 29 seconds vs C 16 seconds, I can live with that.

Nokia Lumia 925 with Black update - When low light...

The ambient light sensor doesn't seem to be correctly used in low light conditions.
In low light, with the phone "locked", just push the middle unlock button. The screen show the usual unlock screen, but at high brightness, for what seems to be a variable time (every time I do this), but not longer than 100-200 ms. Then the ambient light sensor starts to work, and reduces the display brightness.
This has only started since the black update. My Lumia 925 was working fine before, and now this display brightness problem has started. It only happens in low light conditions. If there is enough light (eg. daylight), the screen doesn't start with max brightness to begin with.
It doesn't matter if I'm using "glance" either. With this feature turned on or off, in low light conditions, this problem is the same.
I am now not using glance (I wasn't really using it before the update anyway), and I've set my screen brightness to a set value as a workaround.
OS version 8.0.10517.150
Frimware: 3051.40000.1345.1001
Hardware: 0.5.6.1
Radio: 3.2.04047.1
SOC: 8960
Solved!
Go to Solution.

So I've played with my phone more ... and I don't think there is a big problem. If I move to a room that is darker, and wait a few seconds, the phone unlock screen isn't bright when I hit the unlock button. It seems the phone now needs longer time to get used to the light conditions it is in.
Maybe the Lumia was always like this, or maybe the ambient light sensor has a slower response time now, and isn't polled as often for its reading, like it was before. More likely is that as I have been playing with the glance screen, I've been locking and unlocking quickly, while walking around. The phone hasn't had enough time to update the ambient light settings.
Interestingly, with the glance set to interval, I can still wake up the interval screen when placing my hands on the screen. I had left my phone for sometime on its own, then I lifted it up. Either my fingers or the movement triggered the glance screen to turn on. Or its has a timer as such, and just happened to turn on at this point in time ! Who knows (well I'll search for more info about the new glance settings now).
So it looks like there is no problem. Either its always been like this, and I'm testing the ambient sensor polling to the limits by pressing the unlock button often. Or the polling rate has been reduced (maybe to help increase battery life).

When I take a picture with the flash on auto, I get a blue circle and no picture. When I turn the flash off the picture comes out fine. What do I do to take a pic in low light

When I take a picture with my iphone 4 and the flash is on I get a blue flash and a big blue screen with no pic. When I turn the flash off the pics come out
fine. I turn the flash on to take a pic in low light I just get a blue screen. How do I remedy this?

Try a reset or restart of the device.
If that doesn't work attempt a restore of the phone's iOS

FILMING WITH REBELT31, OPTIONS FOR RECORDING IN LOW LIGHT.

Hi there everyone. My question is that I want to know about a lenses that supports me good definition and quality in low light conditions. I am recording with a Rebel t3i. Thanks in advance.

bebefle_89 wrote:
This is my first DSLR and I am recording weddings and parties. For the nature of these events, most of them have low light conditions. I also need advice of a gadget to record everything without changing SD cards. Thanks.
The solution is a bigger (higher capacity) SD card. =) They go up to 64gb and 128gb now which should provide A LOT of recording capacity.
bebefle_89 wrote:
At the time, I've been working just with the 18-55 (the one that comes with the camera package), but I need an aditional lense because this lense I have, is graining all my videos because of the adjustment of ISO.
How much do you understand about f-stops, shutter speed, and ISO? What exposure settings are you using now for your videos? In short, you need a lens that can open up to a larger aperture (such as f/1.8, f1.4 or f1.2).
Here are some guides that will be helpful in explaining these concepts for you:
http://www.exposureguide.com/exposure.htm
http://www.makethephoto.com/articles/how-to-make-the-jump-from-automatic-shooting-to-manual-shooting

I am having trouble with exchange account connection .the vpn connects fine but the exchange account is still showing the yellow light .can anyone help?

i am having trouble with exchange account connection .the vpn connects fine but the exchange account is still showing the yellow light .can anyone help?

I had a similar problem. Here is how I resolved the issue.
1. Remove Network Connect
2. Run Terminal and remove /usr/local/juniper and everything within the juniper directory.
3. Reboot the machine and reinstall Network Connect
4. Test if you can now connect.
During removal, you may encounter permission denied error, you will need to change the permission to 777. For example "sudo chmod 777 nc".

I have a white iphone 4S - even with the case off, im noticing my pictures in low-light places still have the smokey finish; can it be that its the white outer shell?

i have a white iphone 4S - even with the case off, im noticing my pictures in low-light places still have the smokey finish; can it be that its the white outer shell? PLEASE HELP!

Anyone have any suggestions? or is everyone else just as clueless as me !

Troubles with rule action scripting, again

I'm baaack, I have another question with a rule action script that I can not figure out how to get to run. In this instance I want the script to sort messages from various members of a group into their respective mailboxes. The mail rule selects the group and sends it to the following Script.
using terms from application "Mail"
on perform mail action with messages theMessages for rule theRule
tell application "Mail"
repeat with eachMessage in theMessages
set theSender to sender of eachMessage
if theSender contains "+the full address of the sender+" then
set mailbox of eachMessage to mailbox "+the desired mailbox+ "
end if
end repeat
end tell
end perform mail action with messages
end using terms from
What am I missing this time? This is the most recent version of several attempts.I may as well add, when I expand this to include the numerous members of the group, do I end each of the "if" statements with a "end if" or will the script evaluate several "if" statements in one toss. tT

The most likely place it could fail is in the comparision:
if theSender contains "the full address of the sender" then
You should add some debugging to see whether this evaluates to true or false. If it's true and the message doesn't move that's a whole different problem from it evaluating false.
As for the 'if' question, you can do it either way. Depending on the situation, one path may be more or less efficient than the other, so it may take some experimentation:
In general, I try to group the statements into the action, not the clause - for example, if there are three clauses that cause a specific action then I'd have one if statement with three clauses rather than three separate if statements that all lead to the same task.

Trouble with low light action shots on 70d

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