Trying to keep PC CPU cooler

Hi,
I have the MSI MS-6712 Motherboard with an Athlon XP 2100 CPU. It runs BEAUTIFULLY. However, I do notice that my CPU temp goes up around 75 degrees when under a full load. When I turn on the coolerXP function in the PCAlert4 Menu, it drops down about 10 degrees.
I'd like to keep the coolerXP setting on by default all the time, but there is no "Start when Windows Starts" function for the CoolerXP feature. Is there some way to get it to run automatically so I don't have to go in and run it everytime I boot up my PC?
Or is it not a good idea to have it running on coolerXP on all the time?
Advice please?
Thanks!

Hello
I supose you use already a thin layer of termal compound between the cpu and the heatsink. it is not needed a great amount, just the minimum to cover die surface and well spreaded.
Then you need a large heatsink something like a titan TTCD5TB (TC) who have a termal controled fan.
You dont need this kind of fan because it is not really effective so you can buy the not (TC) heatsink.
Then you should by a 80x80mm fan with nice cfm and low noise if you care.
You can mount a spacer between the fan and the heatsink of around 10 to 15 mm to reduce noise.
But all this is useless if the case temperature is high because the fan will use that hot air to do the work reducing the cooling power.
If so you need to mount fans in the case and use a power supply with two fans (one in the rear and one in the cpu zone suking the hot air from the heatsink) putting in fresh air into the pc.
This is the best solution for performance use because you are cooling all the pc and improving the life of you pci and agp cards, disks and so on.
Another solution wich requires some handywork is building a duct for the heatsink, there are many ways to do this but consists in mounting a fan somewere in the case and then use a kind of tunnel to deliver that air to the heatsink (with no fan). This provides fresh air (room temperature) to the cpu and cooling is improved.
But if you use a doble fan power supply this is not advisable because it is a obstruction to the inner fan.
Some people say that some shims for the cpu can decrease the heat transfer becasuse they dont let the heatsink to get together with the core die. It may prevent you from crushing the cpu installing the cooler but... it is your call.
Good luke.

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For those of you trying to keep your system cool, here's some info. I just got the Zalman CNPS7000B-Cu CPU Heatsink and Fan for my Neo2 Plat/A64 3k and I give it a thumbs up. The 109mm size is just right - slides in just over your memory and just above your video card. A bigger size wouldn't fit.
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The end result was a drop in CPU temp, as reported by speedfan, of about 10 degrees across all levels of CPU activity. I was running anywhere from mid 40's to low 60's with the stock HSF, even with Arctic Silver V. Now I idle in the mid 30's and peak in the mid to high 40's (still with Arctic Silver V).
I recommend the combo (Zalman & Arctic Silver) and don't think that it will void your warranty by removing the backplate - mine is still sticky and could be put back on if I had to return it for any reason. Good prices and no shipping at zipzoomfly...

Hmm. Out of curiousity, how did you apply the AS5, did you spread it around at all?
I just built a machine in a Lian Li V1000 and I am getting idle temps of 40C and load temps near 60C with a 7000B on a 3500+ 1.5V Athlon 64. I am not very pleased with these temps, even if there is some hot Ballistix memory radiating heat up into the cooler, I would expect better temps.
I used the zalman backplate, installed everything (to my knowledge) exactly right. I followed AS' website instructions for AS5, everything seems to be as it should. All I can figure is: errors in temp reporting by Core Center, radiant heat from a 9800 pro and crucial memory, or air trapped somehow in the AS5. Other than that, I can't explain what I would call pretty bad temps.
Any ideas?

Recommened cpu cooler

Hello, I need to know what cpu cooler will run cooler on my computer
system specs:
k7d master-l
amd 2000xp 1.67ghz/with a retail amd fan
512mb ddr ram
nvidia pny geforce 4 ti4600
430watts antec psu
idle 39c
underload 47c
system 31c
thanks for the help

the Stock AMD fan will keep your CPU cool very well and its silent, You might want to try and add a case fan or 2. One in the front as intake and One in the rear of case for exaust seem to always be the standard.

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I have a L645D-s4056. It has been shutting down without warning.  After doing all the heat things, checking the fan, regluing the heat sink, replacing the battery, blowing it out and throughly cleaning it, testing the power cord, resoldering the power connections. We determined the Cpu is getting hot, like the fan was not cooling it properly. However, the computer even when cool and idoling was still shutting down.   I had a diagonotics done on the computer at a local shop. They said the cpu and the mother board test good.   Therefore, leading them to tell me the problem would be with the cpu cooling fan.   I'm now understanding that there is a main fan which is vented out of the side, and the cpu itself has its own fan.    Can anyone verify that this is true?
I also was able to keep it on long enough today to, to use the Toshiba recovery wizard and completely restore it back to factory settings, so all window issues with cooling have now been cleared also.
If this is the case, where is the best place to purchase a cpu fan, and if anyone would be able to supply what the part number might be. I am trying to find a cost, and I am not the person that knows how to take the computer completely apart, so wondering if anyone knows the info.
2nd does anyone have pictures, websites etc as I have seen in this forum previously to provide help with replacing .. and where it is etc.   The person fixing it is knowledgeable but as someone that isn't im trying to provie the most info as I can.
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Satellite L645D-S4056 Specifications
Satellite L645D-S4056 Downloads
You may find these links useful. You can take it apart to better familiarize yourself with the things alexuw is talking about. But, you can see most of them in the disassembly pictures.
Satellite L645D Disassembly
Satellite L645D-S4056 Partial Parts List
One thing that often causes overheating and shutdowns is using non Toshiba supplied drivers. Especially chipset and graphics/display drivers. Stick with the Toshiba ones.
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CPU Cooler Recommendation

Hi,
I'm looking for recommendations for a decent CPU cooler. Price isn't really an issue.
I recently bought the ASUS Star Ice CPU cooler, couldn't get my MB to work and then broke the fan while fumbling around with it. So don't recommend that one, it maybe good but I don't like it anymore. I also want a CPU cooler that I just can connect to the MB connector and have SpeedFan control its fan, not some external knob etc. It also shouldn't be too heavy. A little above intel specs is OK but not too much.
Looking forward for recommendations.
thanX
Uso

The zalman sink is really quite beyond belief. Get this: at idle and moderate load it keeps my Northwood cool enough with the fan turned off. I found this out quite by accident one day when I noticed my idle temps were about five degrees higher than they ought to be. I figured something was running in the background and spent ten minutes trying to figure out what spyware or virus was secretly using my CPU cycles before I noticed that the CPU fan read 0 RPM. I'd accidentally pulled the wire out while working inside the case. I'm sure this would have fallen short had I pulled up anything really demanding, but I was pretty impressed The downside, however, is that the fan, even at full power, doesn't seem to take full advantage of the sink. I've been obsessed with lowering my temps lately, so I dug out an old p4 stock cooler, cannibalized it, and mounted the fan such that it blows across the sink, i.e. perpendicular to the sink fan such that it's blowing directly toward my exhaust fans. I haven't stressed tested it yet, but my idle temps dropped by something ridiculous like six degrees. As in, my CPU now idles 2-3 degrees cooler than my case. Hence, it's pretty clear to me that the fan just isn't moving enough air to take advantage of the sink's thermal properties. And trust me when I say that the problem is not the amount of air moving through my case: the thing practically hovers. I'm not sure whether the zalman fan can be replaced (I intend to check the next time I have good reason to remove it); if so, mounting one of those 92 mm chop-your-finger-off thermalake (sp?) tornado fans on it would basically do the trick. I appreciate the quiet cooling concept, but I see every extra decibel as added time between me and the moment when something blows up

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I have had my macbookpro 2.16 for about 2 1/2 weeks now, temp averages at about 40c during what i normally do, but the base of it is still too hot to comfortablly use on my lap. I have been using a large book as a buffer for the heat, recently I saw some 3rd party cooling pads with fans in them, running of USB power, has anyone tried one?

I use Vantec Lapcool 4. It folds and quite small for transporting (fits nicely into my bag). It uses 2 fans powered either by USB or by AC. Also adds 4 USB ports.
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The only con I've found is that the MBP slips a bit on the pad so I bought a package of small, clear, self-adhiesive, non-slip rubber cushions to put on the bottom of the lappad (~$2@Home Depot). Now MBP sits securely without any slippage.
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Help me find a cpu cooler please.

Hi everyone,
Im having some difficulty finding a decent cpu cooler for my box,
atm im using the boxed cooler from AMD modded with a 80mm papst fan,
it runs pretty quite, but the temps aren't that good.
Ive tried adding some more fans in the kabinnet, but then it makes more noise, which is unpractical.
There are so many brands and types of cpu coolers, and since im really not following with the hardware developent anymore
im really at lost with this, so i hope some of you gurus can help me out.
It should be pretty simple
sys specs:
Motherboard: MSI K8N Neo2 Platinium
cpu: A64 3500+
Thanks a lot

I guess its a winchester 939 pin ( 2.2Gz with 512kb cache )
Code: [Select]
~ sensors
w83627thf-isa-0290
Adapter: ISA adapter
VCore: +1.41 V (min = +1.40 V, max = +1.55 V) ALARM
+12V: +12.71 V (min = +10.82 V, max = +13.19 V)
+3.3V: +3.20 V (min = +3.14 V, max = +3.47 V)
+5V: +5.04 V (min = +4.75 V, max = +5.25 V)
-12V: -14.91 V (min = -10.80 V, max = -13.18 V)
V5SB: +5.11 V (min = +4.76 V, max = +5.24 V)
VBat: +2.69 V (min = +2.40 V, max = +3.60 V)
fan1: 0 RPM (min = 675000 RPM, div = 2)
CPU Fan: 0 RPM (min = 21093 RPM, div = 2)
fan3: 0 RPM (min = 112500 RPM, div = 2)
M/B Temp: +29°C (high = +0°C, hyst = +0°C) sensor = thermistor
CPU Temp: +55.0°C (high = +80°C, hyst = +75°C) sensor = diode
temp3: +32.5°C (high = +80°C, hyst = +75°C) sensor = thermistor
vid: +1.475 V (VRM Version 9.0)
alarms:
beep_enable:
Sound alarm disabled

CPU cooler that works with K8N Neo4 Platinum/SLI motherboard

I have read that some say the Zalman interferes on this board with the 1, and 2 ram slots, is this true? I'm using the 3500 Winchester CPU.
Does someone have a part number if the Zalman is; a) the best, and b) clears properly.
Also I see everyone talking about Artic Silver 5. What does the"5" mean? I have Artic Silver that I have been using for about 2 years, but there iis no designation "5". Do I need the new stuff?
Thanks

I don’t know muck about artic silver, but I have a comment on the cpu-cooler question.
I recently bought a K8N SLI Platinum, which has an almost identical layout as the Neo4 Platinum. I use a Termalright XP 120 cooler which according to there webpage does not fit on this board. But I didn’t had much problem at all! It is tight with the first ram slot thaw, and with a memory just a few millimetres higher than mine it wouldn’t fit (I use TwinMOS PC3200).
Unfortunately, I don’t know if it’s a similar situation with the Zalman coolers, but I really like to recommend the XP120 (or even XP80) anyway. It keeps my cpu (althorn 3000+) at almost the same temp as the sounding system, during normal use. And since you are free to put any fan you like, you have a very good start making your system really quiet.

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I want a better cput fan any one knoe of any Excellent powerfully fans.

Quote
Originally posted by d@i
got to say the best you can get in my opinion is the zalman flower (full copper) - not only does it keep your cpu very cool (ok maybe not as cool as the most powerfull hovercraft style fans) but is is vertually as silent as you can get without going for water cooling
i second that

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I've recently read that it would be better to use the Cool and Quiet option with the stock CPU cooler instead?

Chris,
If you don't mind a used one, there are probably about a hundred thousand available ones from people in these forums who has upgraded their heatsinks, and that's about everyone
The problem is, we dont want to give them up. We bought the retail package with fan not because of the free heatsink/fan, but because of the 3 year warranty that you only get with said combo. To invoke the warranty, we'd have to return everything, including the heatsink/fan, so we hang on to it and let it collect dust.
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Hi,
If you search the forum you should find a post with a similar desire. It's interesting to note that HP Partsurfer only shows one heat sink and it's rated for 95 watts.
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Check out my setup. I want a great CPU Cooler. I don't want to go with water cooling, so what does everyone think is the best Fan CPU Cooler?

Any cooler that can produce 0.50cw or lower is going to do overclocking.
Easy calculation is;
For every 1watt of heat your CPU chucks out, the heatsink needs to beable to transfer as much of that 1 watt away as possible.
With a 0.50cw heatsink, your going to be able to rid 0.5watts of accumulated heat.
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The heatsink will keep the temp at 39* at full load approximately, but too achieve that 0.50cw from a heatsink, the ambient temperature needs to be added into the equation.
So sometimes you see a ratiing of above ambient temperature, or similar, on the thermal transfer graphs.
An example, just an example as well.
If the ambient temperature is 10* below that 39* of heat output, then the CPU will actual have a TRUE load temp of..........49*.
If the ambient temperature is 20* below that 39* of heat output, then the load temp will be 39*
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If its not the cooler and hsf, are you sure its not the processor itself?
Otherwise I'd say yeah its probably a faulty board. I know that feeling Lately every board ive gotten (and no joke either) has actually been faulty, sans this kt4av i'm waiting to actually test and see. I think I am going to snag a new cpu cooler since I cant stand the big hunk of copper I got. I feel like im going to crush a processor every time I stick it on. That and the fan doesnt fit right so I need a new one. Best of luck on this whole scenario. When you take the board back and swap it for another, try taking your proc and hsf and a stick of mem with you, and have them test it there to make sure its all working That way if you get home and something doesnt work you can possibly rule out grounding issues or the psu, even though it doesnt seem your psu is the issue

Trying to keep PC CPU cooler

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