TS1702 The application "video converter" says that I can retrieve my converted files through iTunes. Where and how does that happen?
The application "video converter" says that I can retrieve my converted files through iTunes. Where and how does that happen?
I see an iPhone App called Video Converter but not an iPad app. When to do a search, it comes up with a whole bunch of apps so perhaps if you tell us exactly which app it is .....
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I am unable to open adobe bridge on my mac. When I try to open it nothing happens. When I right click it says the application is not responding. I can also not op en through photoshop.
Could you see whether Firefox will start in its Safe Mode? That's a standard diagnostic tool to deactivate extensions and some advanced features of Firefox. More info: [[Troubleshoot Firefox issues using Safe Mode]].
Here's how:
With Firefox closed, hold down the Shift key while starting Firefox.
A small dialog should appear. Click "Start in Safe Mode" (''not'' Reset).
Does that work? -
I would like to know which app/software in MAC gives us the same feature that is provided by System Restore in Windows, and how does that work.
Time Machine is one such program, although it is a recursive backup program which offers limited archive capability, based on the capacity of the backup destination, and it requires you set it up before you start editing your files. Some programs are also Versions aware, which offers a kind of restore capability by file. Again needs to be setup before you start editing.
Just a for-your-info:
Mac is not an acronym, it is a nickname for Macintosh. -
I downloaded the OS X version 10.9 and my Iphoto version 9.2.3 will not open. I get a message that I can't use this version of the application I photo with this version of OS X. How do I upgrade to a i photo that will run on 10.9. Do I purchase a new program or can I do just an download?
Check the "Purchases" page in the Mac App Store and see if there is a more recent version there already waiting for you.
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T3i sensor size vs. full frame and how does that effect lens measurements?
I am new to both photography and the T3i camera. I have been reading Jeff Revell's book "Canon EOS Rebel T3i / 600D: From Snapshots to Great Shots". In chapter two he talks about "Lenses and Focal Lengths". In discussing wide-angle lenses he says
"As for which lenses would be considered wide angle, anything 35mm or smaller could be considered as wide."
Latter he discusses normal lenses and says
"The normal lens for full-frame and 35mm cameras is the 50mm lens, but for the T3i it is more in the neighborhood of a 35mm lens."
I understand that there is a 1 / 1.6 ratio between the T3i and a Full Frame camera. In the first quote does the 35mm refer to the T3i measurement or a full frame measurement?
Is there a standard nomenclature to indicate if you are specifying a "full frame" value verses the T3i value? If so, what is it?
When I look at one of my lenses, say the 18-55mm lens, is this the T3i measurement or the standard full frame?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
--Jesse
P.S. I could not find a publisher’s forum for this book or I would have asked the question there.Jesse-T3i wrote:
"As for which lenses would be considered wide angle, anything 35mm or smaller could be considered as wide."
In the first quote does the 35mm refer to the T3i measurement or a full frame measurement?
Is there a standard nomenclature to indicate if you are specifying a "full frame" value verses the T3i value? If so, what is it?
When I look at one of my lenses, say the 18-55mm lens, is this the T3i measurement or the standard full frame?
The fast answers are:
When he mentions the 35mm as the basis for determining what's "wide" he is referring to the APS-C crop-frame size sensor.
There is no nomenclature to indicate if you are "full frame" vs. "crop frame" on a lens because all lenses are reported in true focal lengths. There is a nomenclature to indicate if the lens was designed to only project an image circle onto the sensor which is large enough for "crop frame" ... which is what the "EF-S" lens is. If the lens is for "full frame" (which also works on all crop-frame) then it will have the designation "EF" for most lenses, but Canon also has a few specialty lenses such as the "TS-E" (tilt shift) and "MP-E" (macro photo) lenses which also provide full-frame sensor coverage. Incidentally... this is just Canon's way of tagging a lens... Nikon uses the terms "FX" and "DX" (for full frame and crop frame respectively). Everyone has their own tag. Just remember that focal lengths reported are true (well... there's a TINY bit of round-off allowed) and ignore the sensor size.
Here's the background which may help you understand why this is.
The "normal" focal length is based on the human eye, and to understand it, it's easier to think in terms of "angle of view" rather than "focal length."
If you sit and stare straight ahead without moving your eyes or head to "look around", there is an area of vision that the average person can see (and it does vary), but the "angle of view" for that area is about 40 degrees (horizontally). Of course our vision doesn't present our brain with a nice little rectangular image... it fades and is irregular, but it's generally accepted that the angle of view covers about 40 degrees.
The LENS that provides 40 degree angle of view coverage on a "full frame" camera turns out to be a 50mm lens. Images taken with such a lens will seem neither stretched out nor compressed... they'll seem "normal" to your brain. Also, if you can see an object without having to look around to take in the view, then your camera can "see" it with that lens.
A "full frame" camera is one which has a sensor size which is approximately the same as a single frame of 35mm film. The dimensions are roughly 36mm x 24mm.
There are many different crop frame sizes, but for DSLR cameras, the most popular (by far) is the APS-C size. This means the sensor is roughly the same size as a single frame for the "Advanced Photo System - Classic" film. You can think of this as being roughly 21mm x 14mm (although it varies by a just a few millimeters -- on your camera it's really 22.3 x 14.9mm).
If you were to use a movie projector and movie screen and you projected an image so that it fit perfectly on a 12' x 8' screen and called that "full frame", then a "crop frame" would be derived by shriking the movie screen down to about 8' wide by about 5-1/3' tall but (and here's the key) without doing ANYTHING to the movie projector. Essentially that means you're projecting an image intended to fit ona 12x8' screen... but the real screen is smaller. What happens to the part of the image that doesn't fit on the screen? It just spills off the sides and is lost. That is EXACTLY what happens inside a crop-frame camera.
Canon EOS "EF" lenses are designed to project an image large enough to fill a full-frame sensor ... so when used on a crop-frame camera some of that image just spills off the sides. This means that if your lens was providing a 40 degree angle of view (measured horizontally) then the crop-frame is only capturing the 26 degrees in the middle of it. If you want a 40 degree angle of view again... you'll need to change lenses.
And this is where your author suggests a 35mm lens is "normal" for a camera with an APS-C body. The math actually works out in the neighborhood of a 31mm lens, but nobody actually makes a 31mm lens... and a 35mm focal length (commonly available) is pretty close. Also 28mm lenses are commonly available and are ALSO pretty close. It's my personal opinion that 28mm is probably a bit more normal than 35mm, but that's because as an avid amateur astronomer, I am fairly used to looking through Plossl design eyepieces which provide a 50 degree apparent angle of view and my eye actually can see the edges of the frame, but if I go a bit wider... I can no longer see the edges of the field without "looking around" (regardless... 40 degrees seems to be the established norm and THAT is the value that everything is based on.)
For purposes of buying lenses, the focal lengths are NOT converted or adjusted in any way. For example, Canon makes "EF-S" lenses designed specifically to work with their crop-frame bodies. So when the kit lens that comes with the camera says it is a zoom with an 18-55mm focal length range... it really is 18-55mm regardless of sensor size. (Canon isn't multiplying or dividing focal lengths and putting a different value on the box just because it's intended for a crop-sensor camera.)
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Tim
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da -
help
You have encounter Activation Lock, the antitheft feature of the iPhone. The previous owner did not remove the phone from their account. The phone cannot be used until they do. Return to the store and let them sort this out. It is very unusual for someone to "forget" to disable activation lock, as it is necessary to do so to erase personal information on the phone. So it is quite likely you bought a stolen phone.
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Trying to upload pictures to a website, but it doesn't work. After going thru the whole process, I get a message saying; the server attempted to redirect you. Server redirection is not supported. This only happened after I updated Firefox. Never had this problem before.
Dear Jody..jone5
Good for you that can't update your iphone because I did it and my iphone dosen't work for example I can't download any app like Wecaht or Twitter..
Goodluck
Atousa -
Has any one used Disk Repair on an external hard drive? Does it erase everything?
Repair the Hard Drive
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
Fix Permissions for a Locked Drive
Open Terminal in the Utilities folder. Paste the following at the prompt. Press RETURN after each. The first command will prompt for you to enter your admin password. It will not be echoed to the screen. After entering your password press RETURN again.
sudo chflags 0 /volumes/*
sudo chmod a+rx /volumes/*
killall finder
An alternative is to download BatChmod and use it to fix the permissions. -
I had to rebuild my computer and when I imported all of my bookmarks they had no favicons. I started getting some of the favicons when I would go to the websight it would reconnect, but now I can't seem to see almost any of them. I did a search on Google and one tech site suggested the about:config file and that the "browser.chrome.favicons;false" should be set to true. But when I toggle it to true and restart Firefox it is once more set to false. I know it doesn't seem like much, but it is really annoying not having those favicons.
Help me Obi Wan Firefox you are my only hope.The browser.chrome.favicons preference should be set to true, as it is not retaining the value when you restart Firefox, see the [[Preferences are not saved]] article for possible causes.
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WILL SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASE I GOT A EMAIL STATING EVERYTHING LOOKED FINE FROM ITUNES END, BUT I CAN NOT USE AND SEE THE MUSIC FROM THE STORE/ HELP
Close your iTunes,
Go to command Prompt -
(Win 7/Vista) - START/ALL PROGRAMS/ACCESSORIES, right mouse click "Command Prompt", choose "Run as Administrator".
(Win XP SP2 & above) - START/ALL PROGRAMS/ACCESSORIES/Command Prompt
In the "Command Prompt" screen, type in
netsh winsock reset
Hit "ENTER" key
Restart your computer.
If you do get a prompt after restart windows to remap LSP, just click NO.
Now launch your iTunes and see if it is working now. -
hey, writing this from my phone. Please pardon how everything is typed. Quick question. Just downloaded the pear square on program. But now I can not open any applications. I beloved the message that popped up was something along the lines of 'do not have permission to access" ...so... I don't know whether or not I downloaded a virus or not. I was also obviously wondering how I might go about fixing this? -Thank you for your timeo
Pear square one program
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Under search in maps, names come up that aren't in my contacts. How does this happen?
Under search history in the Maps app,...along with all the other places I
did search for, some addresses comes up that I'm not familiar with, and they stay
there. In some cases I didn't search for them at all. Some I may have. A name also
appears, under the address, like "from John Doe". It’s a name that
I'm familiar with my email, but is not in my contacts. Why and how does
this happen?
For example, a person I receive emails from for work, came up as the
"from", and the address, after I searched for it (not on my phone).....I found out
it was the address of his company, I place I've never searched for, nor is
there a hyper-link to it any emails/websites that I could have clicked on
accidentally.
In another example, the beginning of an address “5165” which I may have searched
for and starting typing in came up in the history with several locations that
start with those numbers. Most of them say “from current location”, but one says from
a name, whom again I’m familiar with by email, but is not in my contacts and
have no idea of why the name would be somehow connected to the address.Thank you for the reply. I really appreciate it. Do you know why the names are attached, as "from"?
I attached a screen shot image. "Harry" and "Angela" are not contacts in my phone. Who would their names get there? -
My videos from my iphone are horrible when I transfer them to my PC. How can I improve the video on my PC? Can I just convert the files to WMV? When the video plays the speed is off, it's half slow-motion and staggers into normal play. The clips are slightly cut as well, the clips do not roll continuously. I'm taling about videos that are no more than 2 minutes long. I'm frustrated and I could really use some advice-my kids basketball games is what I'm recording and I'm trying to send them to my family (they are not very tech savvy). Thanks
Not it's only function but one for which it was most admirably suited, which is why I really hope someone can find a work around. I am hoping my post to the Apple feedback may prompt a useful response from Apple and I live in hope that my post here will elicit a useful response from another user. I did not miss the the text at the top of the feedback form but you presumably missed my initial text, 'someone here can explain' or my subsequent 'work around from another user'
Just in case anyone reading this has a large collection of music videos, video podcasts or iTunes U then DO NOT upgrade your iPad to iOS 5. If you are considering purchasing the iPad as a useful mobile device to experience these media organised in your iTunes please don't as you will be wasting your money. (unless someone on this forum knows of a way to undo the mess created by those infallible folks at Apple)
Yes I know it does other things but the purpose I bought it for doesn't work anymore -
I am having problem downloading application on Mac app store, when I try to login and start downloading the application, it will say "Your device cannot be verified"
Back up all data before proceeding.
Step 1
Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/NetworkInterfaces.plist
Right-click or control-click the line and select
Services ▹ Reveal in Finder (or just Reveal)
from the contextual menu.* A folder should open with an item selected. Move the selected item to the Trash. You may be prompted for your administrator login password. Restart the computer and test.
*If you don't see the contextual menu item, copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. In the Finder, select
Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar and paste into the box that opens by pressing command-V. You won't see what you pasted because a line break is included. Press return.
Log out, log back in, and test. If there's no improvement, continue.
Step 2
Reset your computer’s PRAM. -
I tried to import a video into iMovie. Its says their is not enough space on the destination disk. I deleted many projects, and events. Nothing changed. What files do I delete and how?
Hard drive full or near full:
You are going to have to delete, move or archive your data to regain hard drive space.
Have you emptied your iMac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto, iPhoto has its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Other things you can do to gain space.
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive older emails you want to save.
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Uninstall apps that you no longer use. If the app has a dedicated uninstaller, use it to completely uninstall the app. If the app has no uninstaller, then just drag it to the OS X Trash icon and empty the Trash.
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
When you install and launch it, let it do its thing initially, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run all of the processes in the tabs. Let OnyX clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be moved, also, to the external hard drive and then either archived to disc and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
You may have to Purchase an external FireWire or Thunderbolt hard drive to move these files/data off of your internal drive to the external hard drive and deleted off of the internal hard drive.
Good Luck!
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