TS2570 I have the gray screen problem with the white apple and spinning wheel

I have the gray screen problem when it boots to the white apple and spinning wheel, but when I tried safe booting and doing the fsck thing I think I only made it worse, because it now starts, the safe mode progress bar comes on, (no matter if I press any keys or not) and after a minute shuts down again by itself. I also tried the command option, p, r thing and that did not work either, only brought me to the gray screen with the white apple, spinning wheel, and bar, and it promptly shut down. I am thinking more and more that I need the disk, but im not sure I have it. is it possible to order a new one online or is there another thing I can try? there is not an apple store nearby, and ereasing my data is not an option.
Also Im not sure what my exact opporating system is, but I did buy and download mountainlion in August so It is pretty new

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My iMac won't boot up past the white screen with a grey apple and spinning icon

My iMac won't boot up past the white screen with a grey apple and spinning icon...please help!

command R did not result in anything different - still the white screen, etc. I do you Time Machine with and external hard drive, but I unplugged that. I have the installation DVD, but it doesn't seem to be reading it either.

TS1367 when the white start screen comes on with the apple and spinning wheel but underneath it there is a bar. Once the bar fills up my MacBook goes off what is that? What do I do?

start screen comes on with the apple and spinning wheel but underneath it there is a bar. Once the bar fills up my MacBook goes off what is that? What do I do?

Have you tried a safe start by holding the shift key when you boot? If that works, and it can take a while to complete, see if a regular boot now works. If it does, you need to free up space on your hard drive.
If a safe boot doesn't work, you need to either boot from an OS X DVD or go into target disk mode to connect via firewire cable to another mac to free up space on your hard drive. You need 5GB min, with 10% to 15%, or more, better, for systems usage. If you have a backup, move some data files to it, erase them and empty the trash.

I have a little bit problem with verify my apple ID, I don't get any message for verification aplle ID from Apple. Why? Anyone can help me

Dear all,
I have a little bit problem with verify my apple ID, I don't get any message for verification aplle ID from Apple. Why? Anyone can help me

Hi Tep Virak,
Thanks for visiting Apple Support Communities.
You may want to log into your Apple ID first to double-check that it's the right email address and re-send the verification email using these steps:
Sign in to My Apple ID to manage your account information.
Click Resend under Primary Email Address.
From:
Apple ID: Associating and verifying email addresses with your Apple ID
http://support.apple.com/kb/he68
All the best,
Jeremy

Just tried to update my iPad 2 to the current iOS, and I got an error that said the update wouldn't install. The iPad is stuck in a funny mode with the apple and spinning wheel showing. I can't power it down or restart it. What next? Thanks.

Just tried to update my iPad 2 to the current iOS, and I got an error that said the update wouldn't install. The iPad is stuck in a funny mode with the apple and spinning wheel showing. I can't power it down or restart it. What next? Thanks.

Try a hard reset: hold the power and home buttons simultaneously until the Apple logo appears.

My Macbook Pro shows the apple and spinning wheel at start up but won't continue startup. Any Help would be appreciated.

My Macbook Pro shows the Apple and spinning wheel at startup but will not continue the startup. Does anybody know how to get past this, so the computer continues to startup?

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. The easiest way to deal with the problem is to boot from an external drive, or else to use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 6.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Repeat Step 9, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Gray apple and spinning wheel only

I installed an update from the update scheduler. At first I couldn't print, I restarted the computer and it went to the background display only, no icons. I shut down the power and now all I get is the gray apple and spinning wheel.

I would advise against the PMU reset. It will not solve a problem with botched software update, and can make matters worse if you have an Intel Mini.
Since your forum name is SeattleMom, I'd suggest you take the Mini to the genius bar at your local Apple store and have them sort this out. Be sure to give them a full description of the steps that preceded the problem.

HT1492 The update-process of Xcode jan. 2013 ver. did stop whilst installing the iMac did reset and a gray screen appears with the message: Diskdrive 0 space available - then reset and gray screen again. How can I delete the update?

After allowing my iMac updating about 80 apps, the process did stop whilst installing new ver. Xcode jan. 2013 - the iMac did reset and a gray screen appears, with white letters: 0 space on Harddrive! It wasn't any sign the harddisk had not space enough, to complete the update - until the reset occours. For us and our little company a catastrophic event.
After inserting the original Snow Lepard Install Disk, the Diskmanager shows no error. No test shows any sign of error in Software. Freeing some of the empty space shows 12,5 Gb.
Perhaps this is a new kind of error happen with this combinations of the new versions of Apps and Xcode...?
Perhaps it's a know problem. I will be truely happy when finding a solution in this community.
Kindest Regards from Scandinavia

If it's slow on startup it would be extensions loading or LaunchDaemons starting up.
You should have a look in:
/Library/LaunchDaemons
/Library/Extensions
You can count out anything in your home folder and it shouldn't put anything in /System as that's reserved for Apple.

Recurring screen problems with the x220

Hi,
Does the x220 have a known problem with the IPS screens ...
In November I came across this issue https://twitter.com/colonelrosa/status/271035133967101952/photo/1 Nothing to do with the video card and the screen was flickering based on the opening position..
Thought it was a one off problem, send it back and got a replacement in December, fine.
Now only a few months later the same thing is happening to my replacement: https://twitter.com/colonelrosa/status/310716193529020416/photo/1
It's the same area too. My warranty is live until 2015, but I can't take a week off every few months when it dies again.
My opinion of Lenovo has changed somewhat, I thought the computers were supposed to be built like tanks but I guess they're not as reliable as I'd heard.
I'm getting in contact with support tomorrow, I guess I'm just venting here. *sigh*.

hey ODub,
before all of this started, was any software installed or removed ?
and before the bios was updated, was the unit freezing less or more ?
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Y 70-70 screen : problems with the black and white colors

Hi all, I just bought a Lenovo Y70-70 and already encountered several problems with the screen :- I had to change the notebook twice because of clearer zones on the black and because of dead pixels- The model I have now still presents irregularities in the black : if the screen is black, I can still see a few clearer zones on it, especially (but not exclusively) on the edges- concerning the white, I am a bit disappointed too : this color present zones that are sometimes ok, sometimes more yellow. Even if it is subtle, I nevertheless particularily see this effect when reading or typing, due to an optical effect that amplifies the phenomenom when text is displayed which tires my eyes. I also see it on colors like beige or grey. As I use this computer to play but also to work, it is uncomfortable. What I would like to know is if these problems are inherent to the screen, or if it is a defect. What should I do ? Did other people encounter the same problems ? I didn't find any setting to improve it. I found that these problems may be link to these, reported on the Y50-70 :- https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-P-Y-and-Z-series/Y50-Yellow-Dark-Yellow-Screen-Calibration/td-p/1868613- http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RCQNONXIKJJ5D/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00MCJQ6MI#RCQNONXIKJJ5D Othewise this notebook is OK, playing with it is a real pleasure. Thank you for your answer,S.

Installation of Mavericks is the culprit here. Lightroom versions 4.4 and earlier are not fully compatible with OS 10.9.x. There will be no more updates to Lightroom version 4.x so the only fix is to upgrade Lightroom to 5.0 or later or reinstall an older OS on Mac.

Y70-70 screen : problems with the black and white colors

Hi all, I just bought a Lenovo Y70-70 Touch and already encountered several problems with the screen :- I had to change the notebook twice because of clearer zones on the black and because of dead pixels- The model I have now still presents irregularities in the black : if the screen is black, I can still see a few clearer zones on it, especially (but not exclusively) on the edges- concerning the white, I am a bit disappointed too : this color present zones that are sometimes ok, sometimes more yellow. Even if it is subtle, I nevertheless particularily see this effect when reading or typing, due to an optical effect that amplifies the phenomenom when text is displayed which tires my eyes. I also see it on colors like beige or grey. As I use this computer to play but also to work, it is uncomfortable. What I would like to know is if these problems are inherent to the screen, or if it is a defect. What should I do ? Did other people encounter the same problems ? I didn't find any setting to improve it. I found that these problems may be linked to these, reported on the Y50-70, supposing the screens of both models are the same (which I don't know) :- https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-P-Y-and-Z-series/Y50-Yellow-Dark-Yellow-Screen-Calibration/td-p/1868613- http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RCQNONXIKJJ5D/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00MCJQ6MI#RCQNONXIKJJ5D Othewise this notebook is OK, playing with it is a real pleasure. Thank you for your answer,S.

There can be several things that could effect your issue. If you are using a color calibration device, it may change your white balance. Check and verify that you really are using pure white when filling, a value of 255, 255, 255 thats red, green, and blue. Check and see what color mode you are in, are you in 8 bit, 16 or 32 bit. Are you in RGB, CMYK, or other color mode.
I am sure there are a few other things, that I haven't thought of at the moment that can effect your issue.
The next question is what do you mean by black and white? or should I say how did you make it that way. Was it already a black and white (grayscale)? or did you convert it in photoshop and if so how. The reason I ask is there are more than one way to convert a color image to black and white and how you do it will effect the final outcome.

HT5858 I have had difficulty launching sites from within my email messages. So, in trying to revert to the default settings on my iPad I went into "Settings" and reset everything. Now, I have a black screen with a white apple and a white line! What do

For the last severl weeks I have had difficulty launching sites from within my email messages. Thinking that I may have gone into "Settings" and set something wrong, I decided to reset to the default settings. So, in "Settings" I chose reset everything. Now, when I turn my iPad on all I get is a black screen with the picture of a white apple and a white line below it. Nothing else works. What can I do? Do I need to send this back to Apple to be restored?

You will hopefully be able to restore it yourself. It sounds like you erased all constant and settings rather than resetting all settings. But I'm basing my theory on the fact that you are seeing the Apple logo with the white progress bar (the white line) on the screen. That's what you would see if the software was being reinstalled and then it stopped on you. If that is what happened, you need to restore again and most likely need to use recovery mode.
You can read about recovery mode here.
Recovery mode - Apple
However ...... If you are seeing the white line when you turn the iPad, let it go for twenty minutes or so, before you try restoring again. There is possibility that the software is still be installed and it can take a while before you see that white line move at all indicating that progress is being made.
Frankly, I don't think that the software is still being installed, but since you didn't say specifically how long the iPad has been like this, it could just be that the software hasn't finished installing yet. If you know better - meaning that it's been like this for hours or longer, then you do need to restore the device.

Adding To The LIst Of Problems With Internet Explolrer 11 And Another Browser

I've b1 of the EA6500 router and like the othe posts I can't use IE 11. The "solution" is to use either Chrome or Firefox but not my Chrome has stopped working. All I get now is the LInksys Blue background. When I first see the site it looks like it's trying but then gives me a blue page. I've included screen prints of what I see when I go to Linksys Smart Wi-Fi page and below that is the version number. I have deleted my browser history, cache, saved form data, etc. but the result is still the same. And it doesn't matter if I use the router IP address or the Smartsys Wi-Fi link.
So right now the only broweser that will let me do router administration is Firefox but something tells me it too will have problems eventually.
the problem I'm having isn't with the router, it is with the company. People have tried to blame Micrtosoft in these posts for the problem but it's not their problem. The real kicker is that these Smart Wi-Fi routers are not old. nor are they cheap. LInksys announced this line at CES 2012, then again in April, and the last one announced for thie "initial" line-up of new routers was the EA6500 (the EA6500 was anounced in June 2012).
I've been mostly happy with LInksys reouters but if this is the way they are going to conduct business, then maybe I need to make certain adjustments with the networking products we purchase.
To put it bluntly...this situation is unacceptable.

Believe it or not I stumbled across the solution to the problem and need to partially retract one of my previous statements. In a sense part of the responsibility does go to Microsoft because during one of their infamous "updates", the default version of Internet Explorer was changed to use the 64-bit version. I rarely used the Internet Explorer (64 bit) link in my Start Menu...I always used the "default" which apparently was the 32-bit version because there are plenty of companies that have not updated their software for 64-bit.
The article I came across is Problem With Internet Explorer? Maybe You Need Fewer Bits. The fix is simple and all it really takes is to right-click the icon for Internet Explorer and choose "Properties". When that comes up change the value in the "Target" field from "C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\iexplore.exe" to "C:\Program Files (x86)\Internet Explorer\iexplore.exe". Once you make the change save the change and then use that link to get to administer your browser. I tried it and it worked. I guess I missed the post from Linksys Support about that possibility.

Due to the rumored heat problems with the iPad 3, is there a danger in using a leather case design for it.

I recently purchased a 64 GB Verizon LTE iPad, along with a Bear Motion leather case designed specifically for that model. I've been reading a lot about the heat problems with the new iPad and although I haven't noticed them on mine, I'm worried that putting it in the case may cause worse problems. Is this something I should be concerned about?

Unless you have a defective iPad you should be fine. The only time it should be heating up is when you're running an intensive app like a game that's working the quad-core processor and the screen. I bought a Targus leather case for mine and play InfinityBlade2 on it and haven't noticed any heating issues with mine, but the part holding the iPad is plastic, so it can disipate heat better.
If your iPad gets too hot it'll warn you, so I'd use it for now and see what happens. It'll shut down before it causes any permanent damage.

Imac G5 stuck on white loading screen with gray apple and spinning wheel

I purchased this imac from a rebutable seller on ebay. He obviously had it working before he sent it to me, and he has been helpfull the whole way through, so I am positive this computer is not junk. When I recieved it, I plugged it in and turned it on, at first nothing would show up on the screen and the fans came on. Then, I contacted the seller and he told me to hold the shift key while turning it on. That did work to some extent. Now when I turn it on, it is stuck on the white screen with the gray apple and the spinning wheel. He had just updated and installed EVERYTHING imaginable so I am positive everything is up to date. I am not sure what to do, I have researched this but I cannot seem to find an answer. Oh, and even know on the white screen the fans turn on. It is quite weird.
Well, I hope someone can help. Thank you.

Call AppleCare. You should not be having problems with a brand-new machine.

TS2570 I have the gray screen problem with the white apple and spinning wheel

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