TS4006 Get worse and bad for find my iPhone.

I tried to find my iPad 2 few times, it says lost connect, that means it won't online on my iPad 2, It is getting a WORSE!!!! My iPhone on device says iPad offline. My iPad connect still work.

Hello Elliiee,
The steps detailed below can help stabilize your iPhone.
Verify that the Sleep/Wake button functions. If it does not function, inspect it for signs of damage. If the button is damaged or is not functioning when pressed, seek service.
Check if a Liquid Contact Indicator (LCI) is activated or there are signs of corrosion. Learn about LCIsand corrosion.
Connect the iPhone to the iPhone's USB power adapter and let it charge for at least ten minutes.
After at least 30 minutes, if:
The home screen appears: The iPhone should be working. Update to the latest version of iOS if necessary. Continue charging it until it is completely charged and you see this battery icon in the upper-right corner of the screen . Then unplug the phone from power. If it immediately turns off, seek service.
The low-battery image appears, even after the phone has charged for at least 20 minutes: See "iPhone displays the low-battery image and is unresponsive" symptom in this article.
Something other than the Home screen or Low Battery image appears, continue with this article for further troubleshooting steps.
If the iPhone did not turn on, reset it while connected to the iPhone USB power adapter.Connect the iPhone to a computer and open iTunes. If iTunes recognizes the iPhone and indicates that it is in recovery mode, attempt to restore the iPhone. If the iPhone doesn't appear in iTunes or if you have difficulties in restoring the iPhone, see this article for further assistance.
If the display turns on, go to step 4.
If the display remains black, go to next step.
If restoring the iPhone resolved the issue, go to step 4. If restoring the iPhone did not solve the issue, seek service.
My issue is still not resolved. What do I do next?
Contact Apple Support.
iPhone: Hardware troubleshooting
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2802
Cheers,
Allen

Similar Messages

TS4006 what is the range for find my iPhone

What is the range on locating iphone5

Both devices have to be connected to either WiFi or Cellular and have location services enabled. Find My iPhone does not require that you be close to the phone you're trying to find. If it's connected to a network thousands of miles away, it should still work.

How can I use a different Apple ID for Find My iPhone than for iCloud syncing/storage and iTunes purchases?

I use two different Apple ID's for two iPhone 4's and for iTunes on my PC. I use one for purchases and the other for Find My iPhone on both phones. How can I set up iCloud for both phones using each ID for it's user for storage and backup but keep one ID for purchases and one for Find My iPhone on both phones?

To better describe what I am needing:
1. - iPhone 1
2. - iPhone 2
A. - Apple ID #1
B. - Apple ID #2
On 1. I need A for purchases and iCloud and B for Find My iPhone.
On 2. I need A for purchases and B for iCloud and Find My iPhone.
In addition, will iCloud store text messages?

Can I use a different Apple ID for Find My IPhone and syncing contacts, calendars, etc?

I would like to use one Apple ID to sync all of my contacts and calendars, but I need to place the Find My iPhone functionality in a different Apple ID account. Is this possible? Ideally Find My iPhone would be the ONLY feature used by that account, not app sharing, store purchases or anything else.

To better describe what I am needing:
1. - iPhone 1
2. - iPhone 2
A. - Apple ID #1
B. - Apple ID #2
On 1. I need A for purchases and iCloud and B for Find My iPhone.
On 2. I need A for purchases and B for iCloud and Find My iPhone.
In addition, will iCloud store text messages?

HT5694 I forget my ID and password for find my ipad please help.

I forget my ID and password for find my iphone please help..

It should be the same as your Apple ID and password. Do you not remember your Apple ID and password?
Apple ID: How to find your Apple ID - Apple Support

Print head alignment keeps on getting worse and worse the more I try to "fix" it

First off, I know that this question doesn't really belong in the mbp section, but since I am printing from one, I thought this would be the closest match.
I have an Epson NX420 printer which came with my 2011 mbp 13in for free (err... $100 off the original $95ish to be exact). It will turn 3 years old in less than a month.
This past week, I have had troubles printing "good" images, so I did the print head alignment on Epson Printer Utility 4, following the written directions. I printed something out, and it was still disgustingly off, so I repeated the process two more times, each time printing something different. The vertical alignment is fine, but the horizontal alignment seems to get worse and worse. One thin line will be split into two in some places, and one will be dotted while the other solid, and in the case of color, the two bands are different colors. Solids come out grainy.
I don't want to waste any more paper and expensive ink for something that is not fixing itself. Since my mbp is still under Applecare warrenty, will Apple fix or trade my current printer for another one for free, or does Apple have nothing to do with printers other than its sale? If not, are there alternative ways to fix this problem? I am sure I am choosing the box without any bands at all and if there is I choose the lightest band-in-a-box and click realignment.
Here is the recent printout of random lines and text, after three unsuccesful trials of print head alignment.

This is a printer issue and it's only covered under the Epson Warranty Program, which is 1 year. AppleCare has nothing to do with that.
You'll probably have to replace the printer if the print heads cannot be replaced. That's the issue when you buy an inkjet that has print heads that aren't part of the ink cartriges... when they go bad, they go bad and you're hosed. If the issue persists after a print cartridge change, then it's definitely the heads.

Apple getting worse and worse?

I am a huge fan and occasional user of Apple since the 80s and buy exclusively Macs since 2006 and have become a power user.
I buy the newest machine every 1-2 years.
I currently own an MBA 11, 2011, i5, 4GB, 256GB SSD. ( also Ipad, iphone)
Since Lion and now Mountain Lion- both of which I love from the User Interface standpoint my experience is getting worse and worse over the years, though:
- I see the spinning beach-ball often
- yesterday mail was so unresponsive I couldnt type an email
- it seems that iCloud doesnt care what I am doing it claims the full internet bandwidth (I have 8Mbps) for itself whenever it feels like it
- now iphoto (which gives me lots of beachballs) just crashed while I was editing a picture
- lots and lots of times, the mac does not wake from sleep and instead I have to hold the on-button for 8s to restart the hard way
- sometimes something is clogging up the CPU and then the fans kick in and they never come down although no processes are running that require lots of resourses, then I have to restart to get the fans to behave like normal again
-sometimes I cant quit iTunes, whenever I quit it restarts all by itself- again rebooting is the only solution
All in all my experience is slowly moving from: "it just works!" to "it is becoming a nuisance!"
I am working with my computer almost all day every day, so I really need it to work smooth in order not to waste my time.
But I am mostly using mail, Office 2011 and iphoto, skype and a few other things - nothing that resource intensive and of course all my system is running the most recent versions of everything and I verified and repaired disk permissions recently.
I am starting to look at Windows machines again if it goes on like this.
Anyone else like this? Any suggestions for help?

Please read this whole message carefully, especially the warnings, before doing anything.
1. The changes to your configuration suggested here should be considered provisional; they may not solve your problem, or they may remove functionality that you find useful. If a third-party system modification that you want to keep is causing the problem, seek help from its developer.
2. WARNING: Back up all data now if you haven’t already done so. Before proceeding, you must be sure you can restore your system to its present state, even if it becomes unbootable. If you’re not sure you can do that, STOP — DON’T CHANGE ANYTHING. If you’re dissatisfied with the results of the procedure suggested below, restore from your backup. I will not be responsible for the consequences, and I will not be able to help, if you ignore this warning.
3. You should either remove or update the following system modification(s), if an update is available from the developer:
N/A
and definitely remove at least the following:
† CleanMyMac
† DivX
† MacKeeper
† SIMBL
4. Whatever you remove must be removed completely, and (unless otherwise specified in this message) the only way to do that is to use the uninstallation tool, if any, provided by the third-party developers, or to follow their instructions. In some cases it may be necessary to re-download or even reinstall the software in order to get rid of it. I can't be more specific, because I don't install such things myself. Please do your own research.
Here are some general guidelines to get you started. Suppose you want to remove something called “BrickYourMac.” First, consult the product's Help menu, if there is one, for instructions. Finding none there, look on the developer's website, say www.brickyourmac.com. (That may not be the actual name of the site; if necessary, search the web for the product name.) If you don’t find anything on the website or in your search, email the developer. While you're waiting for a response, download BrickYourMac.dmg and open it. There may be an application in there such as “Uninstall BrickYourMac.” If not, open “BrickYourMac.pkg” and look for an Uninstall button.
Again, please don't ask me to do this research for you. You can do it better than I can, because I haven't installed the product and I may not even know what it is.
If you can’t remove software in any other way, you’ll have to erase your boot volume and perform a clean reinstallation of OS X. Never install any third-party software unless you're sure you know how to uninstall it; otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
WARNING: Trying to remove complex system modifications by hunting for files by name often will not work and may make the problem worse. The same goes for "utilities" that purport to remove software.
5. I recommend that you never reinstall the modifications marked with a dagger (†) above, if any. If your problem is resolved after uninstalling all the above modifications and rebooting, but you still want to use some of those not marked with a dagger, you can experiment with putting them back, one at a time, testing carefully after each step. Keep in mind that system modifications may be incompatible with each other or with future OS X updates, so it may not be clear which one is at fault.
6. If you still have problems after making the suggested changes and rebooting, post again. Remember: if you don’t like the results of this procedure, you can undo it by restoring from the last backup you made before you started.
Remove the "MacKeeper" crapware as follows.
Note: These instructions apply to the version of the product that I downloaded and tested in early 2012. I can't be sure that they apply to other versions, nor do I intend to repeat the test.
IMPORTANT: "MacKeeper" has what the developer calls an “encryption” feature. In my tests, I didn't try to verify what this feature really does. If you used it to “encrypt” any of your files, “decrypt” them before you uninstall, or (preferably) restore the files from backups made before they were “encrypted.” As the developer is not trustworthy, you should assume that the "decrypted" files are corrupt unless proven otherwise.
In the Finder, select Go ▹ Applications from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-A. The "MacKeeper" application is in the folder that opens. Quit it if it's running, then drag it to the Trash. A dialog will pop up asking why you want to uninstall it. You don't have to provide that information. Enter anything you like in the text box, then click the Uninstall button. All the functional components of the software will be deleted. That's the only useful feature of "MacKeeper:" it deletes itself. Reboot.
Do not try to uninstall by dragging the MacKeeper icon in the Dock or the LaunchPad to the Trash.
Here are some general suggestions. If you want your computer to be usable, don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” “extenders,” “cleaners,” “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, this kind of material is useless, or worse than useless.
The more actively promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
The only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for — such as creating, communicating, and playing — and does not modify the way other software works. Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it.
Uninstall SIMBL as follows. Back up all data before making any changes.
Select Go ▹ Go to Folder… from the Finder menu bar, then enter the following text in the box that opens:
/Library
A folder will open. From that folder, delete the items listed below (some may be absent.) You may be prompted for your administrator login password.
Application Support/SIMBL
InputManagers/SIMBL.bundle
LaunchAgents/net.culater.SIMBL.Agent.plist
ScriptingAdditions/SIMBL.osax
Log out and log back in.
Make sure you never reinstall SIMBL. It’s likely to come bundled with another third-party system modfication that depends on it. If you want trouble-free computing, avoid software that makes miraculous changes to other software, especially built-in applications. The only real exception to that rule is Safari extensions, which are mostly safe, and are easy to get rid of when they don’t work. SIMBL and its dependents are not Safari extensions.

I have two iphones , i lost one and entered to find my iphone and as mistake i block both and delate all the data of both. how can i get it on, im trying to restore it , but its not working ...

i have two iphones , i lost one and entered to find my iphone and as mistake i block both and delate all the data of both. how can i get it on, im trying to restore it , but its not working ...

Hi Roger
Thank you for your reply.
My original feed is: http://casa-egypt.com/feed/
However, because I modified the feed http://feeds.feedburner.com/imananddinasbroadcast and nothing changed, I redirected it to another feed and then I deleted this feed.
Is there any way to change the feed in itunes? The only feed I have now is http://feeds.feedburner.com/CasaEgyptStation
I tried to restore the feed http://feeds.feedburner.com/imananddinasbroadcast but feedburner refused.
I know that I missed things up but I still have hope in working things out.
Thanks is advance.
Dina
Message was edited by: dinadik

Pop ups on mac? I got a mac a few months ago and a few weeks ago I began to get mackeeper ads popping up in a different screen. Now it s getting worse and happening almost every time I click on something, and there s even more variety of what website

Pop ups on mac?
I got a mac a few months ago and a few weeks ago I began to get mackeeper ads popping up in a different screen. Now it s getting worse and happening almost every time I click on something, and there s even more variety of what websites pop up. Now I have pop ups on the actual website I m on and they pop up every time I click something. It s really obnoxious and I hate it. How can I get rid of this....? It s really distracting

Click here and follow the instructions, or if there’s a type of adware not covered by them on the computer, these ones. If you're willing to use a tool to remove it(you don't need to, but may find it easier), you can instead run Adware Medic; this link is a direct download.
(124753)

Dedup performance getting worse and worse

Hi Everyone
I am running Windows 2012 Server and using it for storing VEEAM backups of our VMware environment, and well as a lot of SQL database backups
Deduplication has been running well for the past couple of months (about 35Tb saved), but the performance seems to be getting worse and worse and it is now struggling to keep up with the rate at which new data is added
Checking task and resource manager it doesn't appear that the fdsmhost.exe is really doing much work at all. I see long periods of complete inactivity with no disk access which is not really what I would expect. The files deduped and dedup savings are not
changing either
Does anyone have any good information about factors affecting dedup performance. I've tried manually starting the dedup job with the priority and memory usage parameters to force it to high priority and give it a decent amount of memory but still no joy
We have recently added some more VMs to our setup so some of the backup files are very large (around 1.6Tb). is it likely to just be struggling with these large files?
Any clues or best practices?
Thanks
Harley

1) I can share current stats but don't have anything historically before things started to slow down
Volume                         : D:
VolumeId                       :
\\?\Volume{222fb
StoreId                        : {4D7E4D3E-EC7F-4
DataChunkCount                 : 79157302
DataContainerCount             : 2188
DataChunkAverageSize           : 27.09 KB
DataChunkMedianSize            : 0 B
DataStoreUncompactedFreespace : 0 B
StreamMapChunkCount            : 69269
StreamMapContainerCount        : 564
StreamMapAverageDataChunkCount :
StreamMapMedianDataChunkCount :
StreamMapMaxDataChunkCount     :
HotspotChunkCount              : 758605
HotspotContainerCount          : 21
HotspotMedianReferenceCount    :
CorruptionLogEntryCount        : 0
TotalChunkStoreSize            : 2.07 TB
2) There is no integration between VEEAM and MS as such. VEEAM just writes the backup files to a share and then Windows goes and deduplicates these at a later date. This was working fine for a couple of months but now seems to basically be doing nothing.
This is causing me to run out of space fast as a weekly full backup is around 1.6Tb and the nightly incrementals are about 200Gb each. When this was working they would all get deduplicated back close to nothing freeing up nearly all of the space. Obviously
this makes a massive difference. VEEAM itself is still working, but no deduplication seems to be happening
3) I probably wasn't very clear, but it is only SQL backups being stored on here and not any actual live databases. As the nightly backups don't change very much and are never accessed except in a restore they should be perfect candidates for deduplication
and do actually give very good deduplication rates.
I do notice that one of the items on your list is files approaching or greater than 1Tb
so maybe that is the problem as the weekly backup is one 1.6Tb file
Maybe i'll try to split the backups up slightly and see if that makes any difference. Thinking about it ..... before we adding the recent batch of servers to VMware the backup was around the 1Tb mark and it seems to have died around the jump to 1.6Tb

User Exit and BADI for Sales Order

Dear Experts,
please give me available user exits and BADI for sales order .i want to take the data from sales order at the time of sales order posting .

Hi,
In debugging you can find some Enhancement Spots where you can implement your code. This lets you ignore the need for access key, but its a time consuming process spotting out the exact enhancement point.
Regards
Karthik D

We just got 2 iPad air today and Set up both with the same Apple ID, now I'm getting messages and FaceTime for my 13 yr old daughter. Do I have to create a different Apple ID for her?

We just got 2 iPad air today and Set up both with the same Apple ID, now I'm getting FaceTime and messages for my 12 yr. old. Do I have to set up a separate Apple ID for her to avoid this?

It's a trust issue. You can set them up so you don't receive each other's messages as long as you each have your own email address.
The trust issue is the fact that either of you can change the separation at any time via Settings by checking the appropriate (inappropriate?) email address.
To be absolutely sure you can never receive each other's messages will require two Apple IDs.

FBL3N/FBL5N/FAGLL03 user exits and badis for authorization

Hi Gurus,
I have tried userexit and badis for FBL3N , FBL5N and FAGLL03 for the purpose of user want to display documents created by him and other users documents should not display . Please suggest me any user exit or badi and logic for the same.
Moderator message: last warning, if you continue to disregard moderator messages and post the same question nevertheless, I will initiate deletion of your user ID.
Edited by: Thomas Zloch on May 10, 2011 9:57 AM

Hi,
1. Execute report FBL3n and in the output goto menu SETTINGS -> SPECIAL FIELDS and add the entry BKPF-USNAM and save. Now the user who have created the entry will be available in your FBL*N report.
2. Goto BTE event 00001650 - SAMPLE_INTERFACE_00001650, and copy the FM SAMPLE_INTERFACE_00001650 to custom FM. Inside this custom FM, first pass the value of I_POSTAB to E_POSTAB. i.e
E_POSTAB[] = I_POSTAB[].
Now loop E_POSTAB and check whether E_POSTAB-USNAM NE SY-UNAME, then delete that entry from the internal table E_POSTAB.
3. Now create a custom product in FIBF transaction and check the activate checkbox. Attach the event 00001650 and custom FM to the P/S module customer part.
Hope this will meet your requirement.
Regards,
Harish
Moderator message: please be more selective when replying to questions (especially the "do my work" kind), better check the posters history before investing effort.
Edited by: Thomas Zloch on May 10, 2011 9:59 AM

Didn't Apple say that those who bought a new iDevice after October 1, 2013 could also get iWork and iLife for free on Mac?

I thought I read that anyone who bought a new iDevice on or after Oct. 1, 2014 could get the iLife and iWork apps for free on their iDevice and the same Mac applications would be free for any Mac with the same iCloud account. I purchased an iPad Air in January and got those apps for free on it, but when I bought a used Mac locally I can't get any of those apps for free? If it is possible to get those iLife and iWork apps on my Mac that way please tell me.

Didn't Apple say that those who bought a new iDevice after October 1, 2013 could also get iWork and iLife for free on Mac?
No, they said if you bought a new iOS device on or after September 1, 2013, the iOS versions would be free. And if you purchased a new Mac on or after October 1, 2013, the Mac OS versions would be free. The Mac & iOS iWork & iLife apps are separate applications for two different operating systems. Unless you purchased a new Mac after October 1, 2013, you will have to purchase them for your used Mac.

Failed to start message bus: Could not get UID and GID for username "d

Today ive updated my system and got this mesage on boot
Failed to start message bus: Could not get UID and GID for username "dbus"
My keyboard doesnt work..not on usb or ps2.
After 2 years over using arch on stable repo i got this very ugly bug...S***
ill use minimal cd to reinstall core...it seems i cant get on tty working

phoenix, don't post in old threads: http://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/For … Bumping.27
Try reinstalling dbus-core - if that doesn't work, start a new thread.
Closed.

TS4006 Get worse and bad for find my iPhone.

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