Tv no power: Model 50L1350U

I have had this tv since feb 2014 the latest, and this morning it will not power on, toshiba says they might charge to fix, RIDICULIOUS Model 50L1350U any suggestions? I can't call the warranty department for another 2 hours to give my case number to see if they will fix it for free.

Have the Tv and running sorta of. If you remove cover remove back cover, you can leave stand rod connected but remove bottom pannel if you can't get rod screws to be remove. One striped. Instanded by installers with electric screw driver. Then pry carefully from little openings (two) X 4 plus two where stand mounts across the bottom. Carefully pry up around back cover. I started Led side and pried up by lifting cover then big pop and it came off. Whew. There is a circuit board behind stand cover but forget it, it is for back lights. The board on right is audio/video/ control. Power supply is large board. Before I go further: DANGER: Large capacitor has about 150 volts Dc across it when your system is unplugged which decreases very slowly if at all, depending on your problem. IF you remove board and have it in your hands, large instanteous amps will knock the stew out of you. Take an insulated screw driver gloves and discharge cap WITH TV UN PLUGGED after you have waited and shorted AC plug tip to ground. It will go bang if you do not waiT!!i 10.7 v DC across both legs during normal operation. If you read 10.7 volts then your curcuit is working across both sides of large Cap, and circuit is waiting for an enable pulse from remote. I was able to get TV to run but not reliable on start upfor the pressent.. Started last night. I have mapped all voltages and everything in power supply when running normally. When waiting for enabling signal, left side of board has no voltages. but running the diodes top left put out 109.2 volts and bottom diodes left side put out 70.5volts dc and 27.5v dc bottom.The secret in starting is pin 14 on top left connecto rif it has 5.1 vdc it is ready to go with remote. I removed boards first and to my surprise, they look beautiful. No bad solder joints. Do use an eraser on silver screw points on bottom of circuits boards to clean grounds. I still haven't found exact cause of trouble but only worked on it about an hour and a half. Watching it now. If it runs, this means all your boards are good but something is not latching and enable signal is not reaching power supply board, in my case now, sometimes... All functions on my TV are working beautifully and yours probally is too if it isn't starting.. I will try to fix exact problem next few days (wifes Birthday) have to drop this for a while. Already know how to make it run for me. (Electonic Engineer retired)

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Model 50L1350U Horizontal Lines

Hello,
I have a Model 50L1350U LCD TV that is just over 1 year old (and out of warranty, of course) and am experiencing horizontal lines on the bottom 1/4 of the screen. After going through the diognostics tests listed on-line, I still have this issue. I then installed the latest firmware and still have the problem. After this, I called tech support and they informed me that for $35 I can have them do a diognostic test that will determine the problem. Then, I can take it to an "authorized repair" shop for repairs??? Where they will do the same diognostic test?!?! The repairs for the LCD (which it probably is) will probably cost as much as the TV itself!!!
I am VERY DISAPPOINTED in the quality of this TV and feel that it is very crappy to have a TV that is practically new fail. My experience with this company has jaded me from ever purchasing another Toshiba product again!!!
Sincerely,
Upset Consumer

My TV experienced the same problem about two weeks ago...after warranty. I used my Visa Card to purchase it and they extend the manufactures warranty an additional year. I called the customer service number on the back of my card and they gave me a warranty number to call. I had to provide a copy of the original sales slip, copy of the Visa statement showing the purchase (my Visa provider, Chase, has five years of statements online) and a copy of the manufactures warranty (you can get this online if you no longer have it.) I emailed all of this to them and they emailed me a one page form to sign and return.
I had an onsite service call which I paid for. The technician said it was the display screen and they would email me a repair estimate. The estimate was for way more than the original purchase price. I emailed it to the warranty company and followed up with a phone call. The underwriters will review and indicated if the repair price is close to or greater than the original price they would probably have me purchase a new TV. I have not heard the final reply from the underwriters yet but it looks like I will probably get a new TV.
Hope this solution may work for you also.

Toshiba TV Model 50L1350U wireless

1st let me say I have apparently mislaid the user manual since I can't find it in the rest if the paperwork. 2nd -I did search the internet version of the manual. BUT it's 120 Pgs long...
Now... Can anyone tell me:
1. Does this model have wireless capabilities?
2. If it does not, will a USB wireless adapter work?
3. Any other options?
Thx

No, the TV doesn't have the capabiltiies. You'd need to connect a device that has Internet capabilities.
- Peter

15310-CL spare DC power supply

I'm not too familiar with the 15310 yet. Is there such a thing as a separate power supply you can order? If so, what is the part number? Thanks.

Three-prong male locking connector for DC power supply model or three-prong male AC connector for AC power model.Refer URL http://www.cisco.com/univercd/cc/td/doc/product/ong/15310/310r50/310r50rf/310spcb.htm#wp1011884

How do I use Aggregate formulas with multiple measures from different tables?

I have three measures:
Cash - this sums the £ column in my 'Cash' table.
Online - this sums the £ column in my 'Online'
table
Phone - this sums the £ column in my 'Phone'
table
How do I now do aggregate formulas that combine this three measures, for example:
Find the MIN or MAX of the three measures
Average the three measures
I have worked out how to use simple aggregation like add, subtract etc through the CALCULATION formula, but doing the average or MIN/MAX does not work.
Thanks.

Hi, thanks for the suggestions.
Re: Julian
I had thought about this method, unfortunately it is not always three measures so this doesn't work.
Re: Tim
I was not aware of the APPEND formula however I will definitely give it a try and report back - I can see this one working.
Re: Michael
Apologies, I have never found a an easy way of simulating some of my issues since it would mean creating a new power model and establishing quite a number of relationships. I definitely see the benefit when posting on the forum since it makes my issue far more
accessible, unfortunately when I've posted before I've generally been racing against time and not had time to prepare this anonymised data. Is there a quick way of doing it?

IMAC Wireless Internet Connection Problems All Of A Sudden

My Imac is well over a year and a bit old and has been able to connect to my wireless internet connection absolutely fine until the past week and a half. At first the connection wouldn't work and when I would turn my airport on and off and reset the router, it would eventually work, now that is not working at all. My airport status is either showing 'airport is turned on but is not connected to a network' or 'airport has a self-assigned ip address and may not be able to connect to the internet'
I have formatted my imac twice and still no avail and the last format I tried to join wirelessly straight from boot but it wouldn't join saying 'there is a problem with the wireless connection and you're not connected to the internet.' the annoying thing is I can see the network sitting there and can't join it, my network is also unsecure so no need to input a password. All my home PC's and my Iphone and Blackberry find the network easily enough, although recently the Iphone has began showing only 1 bar of wifi connection.
I am at my wits end as I am unable to connect at all now, I am all out of ideas and have been bashing my head off a wall for the past day without any connection at all.
My router is a buffalo AirStation wireless G high power model, my IMAC is an intel core 2 duo 20", if you need anymore information of my hardware I will gladly provide it. I'm running MAC OSX Leopard 10.5, out the box as I've been unable to run any software updates as I can't connect to the internet.
Please, if anyone can shed any light at all on this issue I would definately try anything.
Thanks in advance and regards.
Message was edited by: proxykillah

Anytime you see a self-assigned IP address in your network prefs you know it surely is a problem
with your router configuration. Power down all equip ... make sure modem is off for at least 5 minutes
restart modem, restart iMac ... check your network pref on iMac and make sure it's not 169.x.x.x
If so you will need to recapture the settings from your ISP's modem to the Buffalo.
Always use a secure wireless connection (WEP, WPA, WPA2) or else the whole neighborhood will suck down your bandwidth the slow down what your paying for. I use Time Capsules or AEBS (Airport Extreme Base Stations) that allow you to stealth mode and lower signal output and make the device
as a "closed network" ... meaning no one else can see and tap into your WIFI home network!
802.11N is better than G. and especially when you can use dual bands 2.4 / 5GHz to stop various home interferences. The backup of Time Machine only makes life much easier also! Xtech

What's new in Premiere Elements 13?

Premiere Elements 13 is more of a refinement than a major overhaul of Adobe's consumer video editing program. Though there are a couple of cool new features worth noting:
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• The Shake Stabilizer. The Shake Stabilizer is a very nice update of the old Video Stabilizer effect.
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• Video Story. Certainly the most exciting new feature in Premiere Elements 13, though, is Video Story, an advanced tool for assembling clips and building stories using templates and semi-automatic tools.
• Burn your disc to ISOs and Folders. In version 13, your DVDs and BluRays can be burned directly to a disc or they can be archived as ISO image files for later burning to disc.
• Organizer enhancements. The Elements Organizer has also been given a tune-up. The interface has been nicely decluttered, and there’s even tighter integration with Adobe’s Revel “cloud”.
But the most interesting addition is the new theme-based Slide Show Creator, a tool that, for the first time, is available on both the PC and Mac versions of the program.
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*** Photoshop Elements and Premiere Elements 13 ***

Over_Nyquest,
Thanks for noticing!
Here are some of my personal favorites for some of the "what's new" in v13 - the entire new feature list and specific use cases on how to use these features will be rolled out over the next several weeks...
1. Circuit Parameters - For modeling, you can set 'global' style variables and have component and model values be expressions that are dependent on these values. There is a circuit parameters dialog for adjusting the values and they can be used in the SPICE analyses (such as parameter sweep).
2. More components - Maxim has been added as a supported manufacturer (+1300 parts) and many updates to our other supported manufacturers (+1500 new parts/updates from various mfrs). We've added several new power models for thermal analysis (also included are some new eGAN FETs from EPC - these are new, small, highly efficient FETs).
3. Updated the Component Wizard - makes it easier to do the symbol pin mapping for models.
4. The LabVIEW API is now part of the installer (so if you have LabVIEW, it will automatically install for use in automating your simulations).
5. PCB templates for reusing designs. Also new/better dialog for multisection parts in heirarchical designs (which helps to better ensure synchronized hierarchical schematics/layouts).
...various others... you can open the Examples folder for some good examples some of the newest features...and you can look at the documentation for some additional details (All Programs -> National Instruments -> Circuit Design Suite 13.0 -> Documentation -> Circuit Design Suite 13.0 Readme).
- Pat Noonan
National Instruments

I dont get more than 2-2.5 Hours out of my MacBook Air (at lowest settings)

I have a serious problem with my MBA. I mainly use it to take notes at University. So my normal usage is: Screen brightness turned to the lowest possible point, WLAN+Bluetooth OFF and Word running.
How many hours do I get? If I'm lucky, 2.5! And I'm not surfing, I dont play any fancy games, I'm just taking notes. Most of the time the screen is completely turned off, because I dont take notes every 2 seconds.
How in the **** did Apple come up with 4.5h of wireless work? If I turn on the WLAN, set the brightness to 40% and surf the Web, I'm lucky if I get 1.5hours out of my battery.
According to iStat my battery life is at 88% with abou 60 cycles. But I'm seriously considdering to take my MBA back to the Apple Store, because it's pretty much useless for me right now with less than 2h of battery life.
Are you guys getting any better results? I googled and I found reviews that said they were able to surf the web for "close to 4 hours" with brightness at 40%. HOW is this possible???!

You should definitely be getting more than 2 hours (or so) with the configuration you're currently using. Curious, what does your battery statistics look like... Give a full charge, start using it in the configuration you normal use it and copy/paste the info (after about 20 minutes of use).
Apple Logo > About This Mac > More Info > Hardware > Power
Model Information:
Serial Number: SMP-ASMB017-3921-665
Manufacturer: SMP
Device name: ASMB017
Pack Lot Code: 0000
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Firmware Version: 0009
Hardware Revision: 0401
Cell Revision: 0100
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 1331
Fully charged: No
Charging: No
Full charge capacity (mAh): 4908
Health Information:
Cycle count: 3
Condition: Good
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): -919
Voltage (mV): 7409
Be curious to see the Amperage, Voltage, Full Charge capacity.
On a side note, I've seen significant battery improvement on my machine when backlight is set to max versus 20-30%. It's approximately 25-30 minutes of additional run time over a consecutive run time from 100% to 5% battery.
Secondly, AppleCare does NOT cover the battery replacement "for free." There are specific requirements that would qualify a battery for a replacement under the limited one-year warranty and AppleCare but it's not a "gimme."

Rotating video 180 degrees?

I have a special need to be able to rotate certain clips within a video 180 degrees. I am mounting a small video camcorder in a mid-power model rocket and will be launching the camcorder to an altitude of approximately 5000'. During the ascent (Phase 1), the video will be oriented correctly. At apogee, the rocket will eject a small drogue parachute to create a rapid but controlled descent (Phase 2) until the altimeter senses roughly 500' altitude at which point, it will eject a large main parachute for a slow descent and soft landing (Phase 3). During Phase 2, the camcorder will be suspended upside down from the drogue parachute.
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gambak
If you found rotation in your particular version from the information in this 5 year old thread, then please read no further.
If you need rotation in Premiere Elements 8 as did Allan Coleman, then, for the selected clip,
Properties Palette
Motion Panel expanded with the rotation feature found there.
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Applied Effect Tab
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ATR

Experience WD Drives

I'm getting ready to by a Mac Pro, at the moment I am actually waiting till after MacWorld in case they release a updated version. Anyways, I plan on getting 3 additional drives, 1 specifically for time machine, 1 for Win Xp and the other two drives for Leopard. I was checking out the WD site because I have been planning on getting RE2's, when I saw their new Green drives. Now I am not to worried about power consumption and I am not sure it would make a difference for only 4 drives. But I am curious if anyone has used them yet, and what if any the trade off is compared to the RE2's.
Thanks for the help.

You will find a review and comparison here: http://www.storagereview.com/1000.sr?page=0%2C1. They are only available in 500 GB-1 TB sizes (Green Power model, that is.) The approximate power savings depends upon drive size. For the 500 GB models the savings is 3 watts. For the 1 GB models the savings is 4 watts. According to the review information you can expect the GP models to have lower overall performance than the RE2 models.

Photoshop CS6 / Video Cards Question

I am purchasing a new computer and was wondering if anyone had any opinions on whether nVidia or AMD would be better for use with Photoshop CS6. In my previous computers, I've only ever had an integrated video card and they worked okay enough with Photoshop. But now I have the opportunity to purchase a computer with an nVidia/2 Gig Vram or an AMD Radeon/1 gig VRAM video card.
This is very generalized since I know so much depends on the cpu speed, ram, whether or not you have multiple hard drives, etcetera.
I've got a clear idea of what I want for all the other components of the computer, but I have no working knowledge of video cards.
I use Photoshop for photo editing and I also want to eventually use it for High Definition Photography editing.
FYI, I don't do any gaming.
Thanks for any opinions and help!!

I usually recommend ATI over nVidia, just because over the past few years as an OpenGL software developer myself I've seen better driver quality from AMD (ATI), but I don't know that past experience is an indication of current performance... Right now today ATI driver quality has slipped a little, while nVidia's has gotten better.
That said, my most recent purchase was a VisionTek ATI Radeon HD 7850 card. A 7750, at about half the price, probably would have done fine, but I figure the 2 GB onboard RAM makes the 7850 a bit more future-proof.
Something important to think about when choosing a video card is this: Watch how much electrical power they need. Video cards, because they have very fast processors, tend to require a lot of wattage and make a lot of heat, and many computers simply don't have the capacity to provide an extra hundred watts of power to a video card, nor exhaust the heat very well, so adding a power-hungry card could destabilize your system or cause heat problems. Something like the Radeon 7750 has a very low power draw. NVidia has some low power models as well, no doubt, but I'm not as familiar with the models.
Photoshop loves working with a video card that scores 1000 or higher on this chart:
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html
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What's new in Multisim/Ultiboard 13.0

Hi
I just upgraded to Multisim/Ultiboard 13.0, from 12.0. What's new? What should I be looking for?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Over_Nyquest,
Thanks for noticing!
Here are some of my personal favorites for some of the "what's new" in v13 - the entire new feature list and specific use cases on how to use these features will be rolled out over the next several weeks...
1. Circuit Parameters - For modeling, you can set 'global' style variables and have component and model values be expressions that are dependent on these values. There is a circuit parameters dialog for adjusting the values and they can be used in the SPICE analyses (such as parameter sweep).
2. More components - Maxim has been added as a supported manufacturer (+1300 parts) and many updates to our other supported manufacturers (+1500 new parts/updates from various mfrs). We've added several new power models for thermal analysis (also included are some new eGAN FETs from EPC - these are new, small, highly efficient FETs).
3. Updated the Component Wizard - makes it easier to do the symbol pin mapping for models.
4. The LabVIEW API is now part of the installer (so if you have LabVIEW, it will automatically install for use in automating your simulations).
5. PCB templates for reusing designs. Also new/better dialog for multisection parts in heirarchical designs (which helps to better ensure synchronized hierarchical schematics/layouts).
...various others... you can open the Examples folder for some good examples some of the newest features...and you can look at the documentation for some additional details (All Programs -> National Instruments -> Circuit Design Suite 13.0 -> Documentation -> Circuit Design Suite 13.0 Readme).
- Pat Noonan
National Instruments

Fusiondrive crashed, SSD gone

Hi all,
I have a MacBook Pro (mid 2009), the latest Mavericks installed, with a home-made Fusiondrive (= replaced the optical drive with a 128GB SSD years ago, then combined it with my internal Toshiba 250 GB HD to form a fusion drive a few months ago). This worked beautifully for many months, until a crash last week. The whole system just got stuck, the beachball was spinning and nothing was moving anymore- so I hard rebooted by pressing the On-button for a few seconds.
But then: nothing, no boot volume found. So I booted from recovery (I guess via the internet, as I should not have a recovery partition on my drive) and opened the disc utility.
Shock: the entry for my Fusiondrive was marked in red and when i clicked it, it said the drive has severe problems and I have to fix it, but would lose all my data. Well fine, I got TM, so I hit the "Fest" button (whatever this means?! Bad localization into German? Dunno...) and it did something. Afterwards, one device showed up again, called MBFusion and I was happy. I restored my drive from the TM-backup and was so happy, Apple did just a great job here.
BUT: When I used the machine for the first time, I realized how sluggish everything was. I thought I d have to give it a while for everything to settle properly, but on the next day, booting was horribly slow again. So I checked the Fusiondrive in the Systems information report and: it listed only one physical device (which of course was my Toshiba 250 GB HD). Neither the Systems information nor disc utility even mention the SSD!
Where is my SSD? How can I "reactivate" it again? Anybody any idea???
I would be so grateful for any help!
Best,
Marco

There is a distinct possibility that the circuitry in the solid-state drive has failed.
SSD models are not exempt from failure, so that is why one continues to make
suitable external drives (enclosed HDD, or SSD via Thunderbolt) as a backup.
This would be a bootable backup or a complete system clone, of the running
volume with OS X so you can run the computer when that primary drive fails.
The OWC mercury SSD units from macsales have some of the better product
warranties in the business, so depending on what you have, it may be covered
to a point. Most do not have a three year warranty, though. So OWC may be a
good source for a replacement for either a fusion-like situation or standalones.
They also have good enclosures that run from external AC power supplies, in
plus, have port-power models that are limited in usefulness with clone OS X.
Contact the manufacturer or their agent about a replacement; and ask of their
support how you could test their product before looking into some other brand.
That last bit sometimes gets their interest, if they may lose a customer.
If Disk Utility can't find the solid state drive, there may be a processor burnt out
in the SSD, or some other problem. Software won't fix a hardware failure.
Good luck & happy computing!

Keeping my 2008 Mac Pro alive (HD and fans?)

Howdy. I have a Mac Pro from 2008 that is currently working great, but I fear the HD and at least one fan is failing. The HD sounds like it's spinning up/down too frequently and once in a while I hear... clicks. I also hear a constant whining sound that increases and decreases with consistency -- the only thing I can think of is that it's one of the ,amy fans starting to go. the computer is nowhere near time to be replaced. So I have a few questions.
HARD DRIVE:
I want to swap out the hard drive BEFORE it fails. I want to get an SD drive (256GB I think) AND a replacement internal HD for documents (1-2TB).
What should I look for when shopping new egg or other places to make sure I get something compatible with my 2008 Mac Pro?
What's the best process I would use to get everything off my internal drive on to the new drives? I do use use Time Machine to back up to an external drive. I wouldn't mind if I have to first moving everything to the ssd and then selectively move documents off the ssd and on to the new HD. Would I somehow just restore the Time Machine backup to the new ssd drive? How?
Once I have the new drives in place, can I still use Time Mahine to back up both the ssd and the new HD? Or does each one needs its own drive to back up to?
FANS:
I should probably first determining if my fan hunch if correct. I don't see any fluctuations in fan RPMs using iStat. Is it OK to use my finger or a pencil to stop each of the fans for a few seconds to see if the whining stops? Or will that burn out the motor? If it does wind up being one of the fans, are those easy to find replacements? I'd rather replace that, too, before it fails so that nothing fries in the computer if it does fail.
Thanks so much!

Nothing you're asking for here is difficult.
I have a 2008 as well and am planning for a SSD in the near future. I rather like the SATA2 units OWC is offering. You can use either SATA 2 or SATA3 and it's possible to upgrade your system to benefit from the SATA3 units that are being offered, but it's quite expensive because you need a bootable SATA3 board (about $1000) so I'll take advantage of the lower cost SATA 2.
So far as the replacement hard drives go, any SATA drive will work, with the best values being the multi-terabyte drives. Drive speed is also a cost issue and if you require very high performance then you want 7200 RPM minimum. But the new "intellient power" models perform very nicely for "normal" usage. Sources I use include Amazon.com, transintl.com, OWC, and NewEgg.
I had a couple of fan failures on my PowerMac G-5s and found good replacements on Amazon for reasonable prices. They're virtually all sold as "PC fans" so you need to make sure they're the correct spec. (It's not hard.)
Stopping a fan momentarily won't harm a healthy one, but use a pencil eraser unless you're a machanic or a masochist... LOL.
Good luck

Trying to install an SSD in a Pavilion 500-424 desktop

I am very disappointed that I just bought this desktop last month and I open it up to find no power supply, no extra power cords for installing an SSD and only 2 SATA ports on the motherboard.
Does anyone know if I have any options ( other than buying another computer that's upgradable )?

Hi,
You have purchased a low end, low power model PC that is not intended for upgrades other than more memory and a different hard drive. Your power is the 65 watt external power adapter and hence the reason why there is no internal power supply.
Create the external HP recovery media on USB flash (not optical).
Remove the optical drive and either buy an external optical drive or use an adapter. Not many people use optical drives these days.
Mount the SSD in the drive bay using a 5.25" to 2.5" adapter.
Another option is to return the SSD and exchange it for a hybrid hard drive.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
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Tv no power: Model 50L1350U

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