Uncommon situation

Hello all. Hopefully someone can enlighten me on what to expect when i return this mobile phone as i imagine this may be an uncommon occurance. Heres my situation. I added a line to my ATT account. I am within ATT's buyer remorse no ETF cancellation period and am going to cancel the added line of service. I am outside of Best Buys return for a full refund timeframe which i am fine with. I understand that policy. I only have a couple of days to cancel the added line of service before i have to pay etf. Seeing as how i am outside of the refund period i am willing to forfeit any refund from best buy. My main concern is cancelling this added line. ATT customer support told me all I should have to do is bring the device into the store and tell them I would like to cancel service on that line and that Best Buy needs to call ATT since they may not be able see the account notes that state i am within the timeframe they require one to be to avoid ETF. Seeing as how essentially Best Buy will owe me nothing I dont see why this would be a problem. Can anyone confirm this?

Hello Tony_D-
I have to admit up front that I am not sure I understand exactly what you are asking, but I will attempt to answer this best that I can. You certainly bring up an interesting situation.
If you are outside 14 days from your date of purchase, we would be unable to return the phone based on our Return & Exchange Promise located here. I’m not really sure why AT&T would direct you to us simply to cancel service if you are still within their non-early termination fee period. It would seem to me that it would be easier for them to do without a middle man.
Based on the information you are providing, AT&T should be able to help you with this more effectively, but please feel free to contact any of our Best Buy Mobile locations, either free-standing or within a greater Best Buy store for more assistance.
Thanks for connecting with us!
Bill|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

Similar Messages

Keeping business contacts separate from personal contacts

Dear All,
I'm sure this is not an uncommon situation and I bet that thousands if not millions of individuals have this same or similar problem.
I am self employed and use my MacBook Pro for both work and personal purposes.
I use "Gmail" for my personal email and I have a separate "Google Apps" account (using my own domain) that handles my business emails.
I use Apple's Mail application for both email accounts mentioned above (setup using IMAP settings)
For various and obvious reasons I'd like to keep my business contacts separate from my personal ones.
I searched for ways to have two separate address books but it doesn't seem to be possible.
I read about Plaxo but I don't want to pay a yearly/monthly fee.
I don't want to create a separate user account on my Mac because I'd be switching between them too often throughout the day. That would be annoying.
Soooo, has anyone come up with any clever workarounds?
How do you fellow freelancers deal with this?
I'd appreciate any ideas, tips or workarounds.
Thanks! – Xavier

Did anyone end up finding a solution to this problem?
A complication I find with address books, groups, and even with the trial of Bento that I played with, is that you cannot move individual contacts from the main pool without deleting them altogether. And there is nowhere else to move them to.
As agodfrin says, it would be great if you could make them invisible. Or, if you could move them to an "infrequently needed" or "private" group so that they no longer appear in the main group. This is most relevant to me because I often add new contacts when out with my iPhone, and they are automatically added to the main list. I then have to go back and find them like needles in a haystack, and there is no way of viewing a chronoligical listing of entries in order of date first entered. I end up searching through the same irrelevant old contacts again and again to find an weed out my numerous recent ones. It's a real time waster when trying to send out marketing materials to relevant people.
I saw that there was an app previously available which listed contacts chronologically, but it is no longer available. I think we really need to be able to separate our main contact list into different branches.
I'm flabberghasted that there doesn't seem to be more of a demand for this kind of logical functionality.

NEED TO UNINSTALL OS 10.2; INSTALL 9.2.2 on eMac--HOW??

We have what is undoubtedly an uncommon situation. We still have to run 9.2.2 on our computers due to some expensive equipment we use for business (printer/plotters whose drivers will not be supported any higher than OS 9). Since we have an iMac and Sawtooth G4 tower that are both a few years old, that isn't a problem.
But. . . we just had to purchase a used machine to take out to our store, and this machine (a refurbed eMac) has 10.2 installed. Since we have NO experience with any version of X, I am desperately searching for any info on how to completely UNINSTALL 10.2 from the machine in order to INSTALL 9.2.2.
Can anyone help?? (Hopefully without any snarky comments about having to use 9.2.2?
eMac Mac OS X (10.2.x)
eMac Mac OS X (10.2.x)

Hi Art ...
A suggestion: If you have an OS 9 bootable emac, I'd advise the following....
Boot from the latest OS 9 version CD that you can.
Select 'Disk utility' from the 1st screen of the boot CD.
Partition your drive - say 3 partitions: 1 for OS 9 Boot, 1 for 'work', 1 for OS X Boot (this will also wipe your hard drive). Or, if your current drive is too small, get another internal (or external Firewire Drive) and partition either or both.
Install 9 & X on their appropriate Partitions (they'll appear as separate Volumes now).
Use 'startup disk' selection to switch between the two as req'd [yeah, I know you don't know OS X, but you will need to, it's not a difficult switch - and you'll benefit greatly from doing so... there are a lot of important apps you'll need/want sometime that'll only run under an OS X vers. and, if you have it there you can always just select the X boot Volume, reboot, install Apps & play.
Change 'startup disk' back to the OS 9 vol. via X's System prefs->Startup (very simple)... when you're finished with X.]
It's actually not an uncommon situation - We also have a similar lot of 'legacy' gear on other Macs but with a Network, OS X's file & device sharing we get along just fine - very fast and convenient (we also use firewire externals to move vast amounts of data from mac A to B or C .. etc. "instantly").
A few bucks on a 'OS X.n Missing Manual' or similar and some time on sites like this one (and with OS X) will have you comfortable with X in no time whilst you continue to use OS 9 as much as you like... But, knowing OS X is going to be very important to you (Trust Me™) grin
Hope that helps... write back if you need more.
best wishes,
Wayne T

My 2008 Macbook Pro makes a loud fan noise.

Hello -
I bought my 15" macbook pro back in October 2008. I was very happy with my purchase due to the machine's performance. But over the past year I have noticed an increase in the fan noise. It almost sounds like it's hitting against something at a very high speed, hense this irregular fan noise. The noise also increases drastically when I am working on Photoshop or InDesign. I also partitioned my hard-drive to hold windows so I can work on AutoCad.....noise increases also as I work on my machine.
Why is this happening? Could this loud fan noise damage any internal component to the machine? Should I bring it in to Apple immediately?
Thank you!

Some of the applications that you mention are somewhat CPU intensive which creates heat and results in fan speed increase and hence additional noise (to state the obvious). However if you are experiencing excessive noise when CPU loads are modest it could be that your fans are failing as all mechanical devices eventually will or you may have 'schmutz' inside that is the cause of the unwanted noise.
I suggest you open the MBP and see if there is any dust in the fans that may very well be affecting their performance. After 4 years, this is not an uncommon situation and it could be the solution to the problem.
If not, then you may consider getting replacements from iFixit or Powerbook Medic and replace them your self. It is not rocket science in this instance. If you suffer from chronic fingerfumbilitis, then have the Apple store do it for you.
Ciao.

About Olympus EP-1: ¿ Why Lightroom can't show difference between 2 RAW photos with different ISO?

When I take RAW+JPG photos with my new Olympus PEN EP-1 which the unique difference is ISO and I import in Ligtroom:
- I can see difference between JPG photos.
- I can´t see any difference between RAW photos (In Olympus Master or Olympus Studio I can see difference). The problem is Ligtroom

There are two sides to your question. I. should Lightroom read all embedded
tags to a RAW file, and II. can it even technically do it.
The problem is that all of tags such as this exposure compensation one,
sharpening, picture styles, etc. are embedded in proprietary file formats
that the manufacturers will not disclose the structure off. Adobe (and every
other RAW converter out there that is not made by the camera manufacturer)
has to hack into the file format to figure it out, so question II can be
answered by "probably not" This is not Adobe's fault, but that of the camera
manufacturers not using a standard RAW format. Interestingly, for camera
manufacturers that use a standard format such as DNG (think LEICA for
example), a lot of camera settings actually translate into Lightroom
settings.
For question I, you have to figure out where you draw the line. Which
settings, on top of simply white balance (which Lightroom reads of course)
should the program read and use? Myself I think the program should display
the RAW data as accurately as possible. In the case of the "ISO bracketing"
that is not really ISO bracketing, the RAW data did not change at all. The
program should reflect this, if only to make the user realize that it is a
useless experiment and only a waste of card space. That said, it would be
nice if some settings translate, but that is made really hard due to the
proprietary file format.
>Would I expect Adobe implements how Olympus E-P1 works in next versions ?
I doubt it, but maybe somebody at Adobe is adventurous enough to reverse
engineer/hack your files to figure out where the compensation tag is stored,
so you never know.
This is however a very uncommon situation to encounter. Why would anyone
bother ISO bracketing if the camera doesn't ISO bracket at all! You're
better off just dialing in extra or less exposure in post. For me the
advantages of LR over typically glacial and badly written manufacturer
software is so large that small issues such as this do not begin to add up
to an argument to change workflow. In the end that's all personal of
course.

Lumia 830 - New Lumia Denim not showing in Lumia R...

My product code : 059W4W4 ( Nokia Lumia 830 ) rm-984
please update your servers for complete Rm-984
New OS : 8.10.14234.375
NEW Firmware : 02040.00021.15063.02002
but
Lumia Software recovery still showing old firmware since many weeks
old Firmware version : 02040.00005.14372.54001
please somebody inform the lazy Software team about this
please update your servers for Lumia 830 asap
i am waiting to install ne lumia denim as a clean install via Recovery tool
@Aakash006sharma
( Microsoft Enthuasist - Tech Expert )
if you like : press star button

OTA updates usually become available earlier than the SW appears to Recovery Tool, so this not an uncommon situation.
If you want a clean install immediately, the result would be more or less the same if you first reset the phone to 02040.00005.14372.54001/8.10.14157.200 via Recovery tool and then download the latest SW version 02040.00021.15063.02002/8.10.14234.375 via OTA.
Unless you have a problem with the phone or trouble with downloading the OTA update, "clean install" via Recovery Tool should not be needed though.
http://www.microsoft.com/en/mobile/nokia-x-updates/
http://www.microsoft.com/en/mobile/nokia-x2-update/
http://www.microsoft.com/en/mobile/asha-software-update/
http://www.microsoft.com/en/mobile/support/software-update/wp8-software-update/
http://www.developer.nokia.com/Community/Wiki/Nokia_firmware_change_logs
https://twitter.com/LumiaSWUpdates

Error enqueing event

Hi everyone,
I'm getting a runtime fault while publishing an event (inside a BPEL).
Following you have a short overview about how we have reached this error :
Few weeks ago we decided to create a new environment for Development. In order to do that, we cloned the Quality environment (schemas prefix - QAS01) machines to have a fully stable version of all services and database schemas to start new developments. We have changed the machines host names as well as refreshed all the references from data sources to a new [cloned] database, we didn't forget to rename the SOA schemas, e.g. QAS01_SOAINFRA renamed with the new prefix DEV01.
So, after that, we were ready to start deploying and testing new composites to this new environment. Everything was going well until we have a composite with a BPEL publishing an event.
You can take look to the error message below that we got from the runtime fault.
oracle.fabric.common.FabricException: Error enqueing event:
ORA-24010: QUEUE QAS01_SOAINFRA.EDN_EVENT_QUEUE does not exist
ORA-06512: at "SYS.DBMS_AQ", line169
ORA-06512: at "DEV01_SOAINFRA.EDN_ENQUEUE_BUSINESS_EVENT", line 42
ORA-06512: at "DEV01_SOAINFRA.EDN_INTERNAL_PUBLISH_EVENT", line 4
I think that we have missed some configuration change after cloning the environment, since QAS01_SOAINFRA is not supposed to be referenced anywhere in this new environment but DEV01_SOAINFRA.
Is it possible to change (EM, Console, somewhere else ...) the schema reference where EDN_EVENT_QUEUE is defined?
Maybe this is an uncommon situation but I would appreciate your help.
Thank you in advance.

just go through the link:
http://codeconfuse.blogspot.com/2013/11/large-event-payload-causes-ora-19011.html

Server 2008 Cluster - OSX 10.5.5

Hi
I am creating a Windows Server 2008 HA filesystem cluster which has been setup and is working perfectly. I have a OSX 10.5.5 build laptop running and trying to access the shares on the cluster. It can successfully ping/see/connect to the cluster and authenticate correctly, yet after all of that no shares are published
I have the NFS protocol enabled and have tried sharing using both SMB and NFS, and the mac client is not able to connect. Ive tried connecting over cifs:// smb:// nfs:// through DNS and through IP, but all return the same problem
Ive looked around and it seems this is not an uncommon situation but does anyone have any tips/clues/etc to solve this?? Apple...anyone??
Its not mission critical for my mac clients to use these filesystem but it would (and should work) be ideal for 100% interoperability and get my osx clients viewing the same files as the windows people
Any thoughts?

To anyone who is having this issue:
I found a resolution in a Microsoft forum, and the resolution comes from Apple
Connect using the following method:
smb://netbiosname:139/sharename
Hopefully this issue will be permanently fixed in future Apple updates or MS KB articles
Message was edited by: thelostwayfarer

Flash photo of distant subject with close obstacles

I am a very inexperienced amateur user of Photoshop CS, but I have been experimenting with a way I have devised (though I am sure it is not original) of dealing with what I imagine is not an uncommon situation, and should be most interested in comments from the experts.
You attend an indoor event — a ceremony, a performance — and photograph the goings-on on stage, using just the flash from your camera, from a distant and poor vantage point behind other spectators. When you examine your picture, you see beautifully-lit chair-backs and rear views of people in the foreground; in the background, so dark as to be almost indiscernible, the event you wish to record for posterity.
What to do? You open the image in Photoshop, increase the exposure-setting drastically, fiddle with white balance, contrast, saturation. You now have a decent image of your desired subject, but with huge chaIr-backs and backs of spectators' heads in almost flat, brilliant white dominating the picture. So you try cropping, but discover that there is no way of cutting out the chairs and spectators without decapitating the actors or cutting their legs off.
Now you try darkening the chairs and spectators — with the burn tool or by selecting them with the lasso and using the Brightness/Contrast adjustment. But because the combination of close flash lighting with greatly increased exposure-setting has removed shadows and texture, you now have quite unnatural-looking flat grey obstacles in the foreground.
This is what I have started doing: I save two versions of the image in Photoshop, one with greatly increased exposure-adjustment (as above), the other with something like the unadjusted, or even slightly reduced, exposure. It is important not to do any cropping at this stage, because the two versions of the image must be spatially identical. In the dark image, I use the lasso tool (with feathering set to about 10 px, but experimenting may be necessary) to select the foreground obstacles and copy them. (It is likely that they will be out of focus, and again experimenting with whether to select around the inside or the outside of the blurred edges is desirable.) Then I go to the bright image, select the obstacles again and paste the previously-copied, modestly dark obstacles over the brightly-lit ones.
Now I do any cropping of the bright image that may be desirable; the dark one should be no longer required, but I keep it alive in case I have to modify my selection and try the whole thing again.
Unless I am quite lucky, some detailed retouching with the clone stamp tool or the eye-dropper and brush may be necessary around the edges of the pasted objects. And, of course, I use duplicate layers at various stages so that I can go back if necessary. But essentially I end up with a properly-lit main subject, with natural-looking but unobtrusively dim foreground obstacles.
Is this a common practice? Or are there better ways of dealing with such a situation?

Thanks for this, Printer_Rick. The trouble, though, is that there is no
way of adjusting exposure (as distinct from brightness, etc.) once the
image is in .psd (or JPEG or even Photoshop Raw) format. At least that
is the case in Photoshop CS, which is the version I have.
Because I only have CS, and because my Nikon camera is later than the
latest one whose Raw files Photoshop CS can handle, I have to work with
Raw files in a rather complicated way. I have to convert them to .dng
format by using the one version of Adobe DNG Converter that is both
early enough to work with Photoshop CS and late enough to handle my
camera files. Then I can open the .dng files in Photoshop and adjust
exposure.
I have tried to convert .psd or Photoshop Raw files back to .dng or some
other format that will let me adjust exposure, but have failed. In any
case the masking would not be preserved. So it would appear that until I
can afford to upgrade to Photoshop CS4 or thereabouts, I shall not be
able to avail myself of your simple and elegant procedure.

FireFox prefers Lucida Sans Demibold Roman over Lucida Sans Unicode when a fontstack contains several Lucida variations (even when "Demibold" is NOT included)

According to http://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Some%20text%20shows%20up%20bold%20after%20upgrade?s=bold&as=s
"Words on websites could become bold or italic if your font is corrupt or a setting is changed."
With FireFox 4, this can also happen if the font stack is
"Lucida Sans, Lucida Grande, Lucida Sans Unicode, Verdana, sans-serif"
and Windows 7 only has Lucida Sans Demibold Roman and Lucida Sans Unicode (which is apparently not an uncommon situation).
In this situation, FF4 apparently prefers the Demibold over the lighter alternatives.
Other browsers (including earlier FireFox versions) seem to be smart enough to avoid the "Demibold" font.
See the discussion at http://jalbum.net/forum/thread.jspa?threadID=38560&tstart=0 for an exampole
Can this be changed?

According to http://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Some%20text%20shows%20up%20bold%20after%20upgrade?s=bold&as=s
"Words on websites could become bold or italic if your font is corrupt or a setting is changed."
With FireFox 4, this can also happen if the font stack is
"Lucida Sans, Lucida Grande, Lucida Sans Unicode, Verdana, sans-serif"
and Windows 7 only has Lucida Sans Demibold Roman and Lucida Sans Unicode (which is apparently not an uncommon situation).
In this situation, FF4 apparently prefers the Demibold over the lighter alternatives.
Other browsers (including earlier FireFox versions) seem to be smart enough to avoid the "Demibold" font.
See the discussion at http://jalbum.net/forum/thread.jspa?threadID=38560&tstart=0 for an exampole
Can this be changed?

Password incorrect after Time machine Restore

I recently upgraded my hard drive in my iMac and restored my system with Time Machine to my latest Back-up. When I went to log into the Admin account (my account) the computer would not recognize my password. I checked the other account on the computer (non password protected) and no problems accessing the info. Has anyone else ran into this situation? Is there a prompt in the restore feature that asks you to enter your password that I might have clicked over in accident?
Thanks all in advance.

Based on my own experience and some of the research that followed, this is not an uncommon situation. There is however a not too difficult fix, so long as you have your installation/restore discs that came with your system. See this article, and click the disclosure triangle by "Resetting the original administrator account password":
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1274

My iPhone 5s and husband 5s both are unable to make or receive calls just comes up fail

My iPhone 5s and husband 5s both are unable to make or receive calls just comes up fail, dosen't even ring,I rang EE and got no where
seems weird both 5s stopped working at same time

If your iPhone works elsewhere without problems, then it's probable that your carrier's signal just isn't strong enough in your home. This is not an uncommon situation, since many communities balk at allowing cell carriers to place their towers in residential areas. If you have good Internet service in your house, you might ask EE if they can provide a "microcell" which would connect to your Internet connection and provide a stronger cell signal.
Regards.

Is it really possible I can't simply save to jpeg?

With Windows 7 and the latest version of PSE, why in Dog's name is it still necessary to buy a converter from some never-heard-of-'em-before software outfit in order to convert to easily the most-used photo file format in the world??? I want to shoot in NEF raw format because I have the space and want all information going into the editing process, but in order to share with others, I need jpeg. This can't be an uncommon situation, can it? "Save to web" doesn't work -- for one thing it compresses too much and besides it doesn't work because the NEF file sizes are too large for it to get itself around. Please, someone tell me Adobe is going to take down this ridiculous wall between their very fine editing program and the real world outside!

What I think is wrong is that I can't simply save my work as a jpeg file; that after eight iterations of the program -- many of which reviewers claim are just minor tweaks supplying an excuse to sell an "upgrade -- PSE can't simply tell me, "You could save this as a jpeg (the most-used photo file format in the world) by converting to eight-bits," instead of sending me off to forums where people find fault with my tone (thanks, Babs, but I've already got a mother.) Every other major-league program I've got auto-updates its components, so why do I have to go looking for ACR updates that have to be manually installed (after learning about them on said forum and in spite of there being an auto-updater that apparently doesn't work)? Are you starting to get why I'm disgruntled? I've only just started to learn this program and already it looks like a lot of head-thumping is going to be necessary just to get to where I can tweak my photos a little and save them in...say it again..."the most-used photo file format in the world"!
By the way, what "pull-down menu" were you referring to, the one I'm supposed to "change"? Thanks.

How can I get IMEI number

Hello,
I will try to discribe my uncommon situation:
My friend bought a iPhone 4 in Apple Store (New York) about one month ago. And then he sent it to me to the Ukraine. But on the way the iphone was stolen by courier service. I didn't get nothing in the end. Now I have just a check from the purchase where I can see just a Part Number and Serial Number of iPhone 4.
After all this I went to police and ask there to find my stolen iPhone, but they need get a IMEI number of iPhone, which I doesn't have. So, what is a problem? If I have only a check with Part and Serial numbers can I get info about my iPhone 4 from Apple base???
Please help me someone!!!

Templeton Peck
I know, that I can't use iPhone in Ukraine like a official, anyway it's doesn't matter. I can sold it to some russian people.
wjosten
Yeah! You are right. I think it's a best way in this situation. Apple Store must have a records of purchase, but I am not sure if they can give this info to me Anyway thanks, I will try to do all possible.

All iMacs going offline after sleeping... ???

I just set up a small 10 iMac office and have them set up for Wake On Lan.
After several hours of sleep they go offline and I can't get to them or wake them anymore... ???
Anyone have any ideas?
All but 2 on the iMacs are only a month old, the other 2 are a year old.

Odd that it won't work, even WakeOnLAN, over dumb switches. With smart switches (ones that do port filtering), I'd suspect that directed broadcast isn't being allowed (a not-uncommon situation on many networks), but with just dumb switches, that wouldn't seem very likely. You might check with the switch vendor just to be sure there isn't some issue with their switches passing directed broadcast, but it's not, as I said, likely to be the issue.
Are the iMacs all the same model, and if so which model? Perhaps you have a model that has issues with waking via Ethernet (don't know if this was chronic with any model, but it's all I can think of right now).

Uncommon situation

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for